PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.
In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we
now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin.
The first under our notice is--
AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near
the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of
America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of
Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The
shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran,
are the principal places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical
Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the
first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was
bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London
for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite
within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of
ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at
issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these
animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet
with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti
whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the
cause or effect of the disease.
Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of
vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name
amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province
of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production,
which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern
appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to
any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely
quoting the facts known more than a century ago.
A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried
cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say
whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its
perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that
HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long
digestion of the human fæces had acquired a very strong and perfect
smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a
great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume
(_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of
the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.)
Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in
deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many
an agreeable smell.
Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing
little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives
permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the
perfumer esteems it much.
ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS
Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the
public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name
EXTRAIT D'AMBRE.
Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint.
Extract of ambergris, 1 "
Essence of musk, 1/4 "
Extract of vanilla, 2 ounces.
This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well
perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been
washed.
The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which
clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak
alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through
the lavatory ordeal.
Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes--little
ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of
strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in
the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming
writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.
[Illustration: Civet Cat.]
CIVET.--This substance is secreted by the _Viverra civetta_, or
civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between
the anus and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of
Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch.
When the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement, which at one
time was common in Amsterdam, they are placed in strong cages, so
constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the
person employed in collecting the secreted substance. This operation is
said to be performed twice a week, and is done by scraping out the civet
with a small spoon: about a drachm at a time is thus obtained. A good
deal of the civet now brought to European markets is from Calicut,
capital of the province of Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates.
In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most disgusting
odor; but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is
agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same
substance, modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the
nose, should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve; but such
is the case with nearly all odorous bodies, especially with ottos,
which, if smelled at, are far from nice, and in some cases, positively
nasty--such as otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly; but if
diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their
fragrance is delightful.
Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the
homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it
that will not admit that "the rose is sweet?" The odor of civet is best
imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood
of absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being
covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and
envelopes delightfully, and so much so, that they retain the odor after
passing through the post.
EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce
of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar
material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then
placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating
for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a
"fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French
perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who
seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint
is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.
CASTOR is a secretion of the _Castor fiber_, or beaver, very
similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in
perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case.
MUSK.--This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal
secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the
male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods,"
and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from
the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain
musk."
The musk deer (_Moschus moschatus_) is an inhabitant of the great
mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into
Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range,
near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the
borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only
that the musk is produced.
[Illustration: Musk Pod, actual size.]
It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among
Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most
esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still
lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal
varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single
musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk
is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces
each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case,
it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark,
friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered,
as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we
presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is
remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything
in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor,
although not in actual contact with it.
It is a fashion of the present day for people to say "that they do not
like musk;" but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the
largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that
the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires. Those
substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale--so
long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer "that there is no
musk in it."
[Illustration: The Musk Deer.]
The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet
powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery. The just reputation of
Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful
odor. The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, but its perfume
stamps it among the _élite_--its fragrance it owes to musk.
The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the
odoriferous principle of musk. If, however, a strong solution of potass
be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true
musk smell.
EXTRACT OF MUSK.
Grain musk, 2 oz.
Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.
After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw
off. Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes.
That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared
thus:--
EXTRAIT DE MUSC.
Extract of musk (as above), 1 pint.
" ambergris, 1/2 "
" rose triple, 1/4 "
Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling.
This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to
our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor. It will be
seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for
a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile
odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible,
namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, _i.e._ very volatile,
and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period,
_ergo_, not volatile! Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with
esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain
this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the
handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the
original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the
nasal organ.