HOMEWARD BOUND
I was satisfied that I could make the work pay me some profit, but it
was not a very desirable contract. Still, if I refused to accept this
offer from Colonel Gardiner, I could not afterwards consistently ask him
for a better contract. If I should accept it and finish the work, I
might later be in a position to receive a better offer from him. The
most desirable country in Oregon, lying west of the Cascade mountains,
had already been surveyed, or was under contract.
At first I was undecided which course to pursue. It seemed to be a
turning point in my life. Should I engage to do the work, I might
perhaps remain in Oregon for years to come, and possibly never return
home. At that time it was about five years and three months since I had
left home, and I had learned that the longer the absence was continued,
the less strong my desire to return. But I soon came to a decision to go
back to my old New Hampshire home, if for nothing more than a visit.
I thought that perhaps this was as good an opportunity to do so as would
offer itself in the near future. Consequently, I made arrangements with
Mr. Preston to draw the money for the balance of the surveys for which I
had not yet been paid, and to forward the same to me at Hudson, N. H.,
my home. After having been a resident of the territory of Oregon for
some more than three years, I left Portland for San Francisco in the
steamer Columbia, which was the same vessel that brought me to Oregon.
To convey a faint conception of the many vicissitudes of the surveyors
employed in making the surveys upon the public lands of the United
States in sparsely settled regions, I will relate two or three incidents
from many similar experiences which occurred while I was engaged upon
the public surveys of Oregon.
One morning while making surveys of township lines, previous to leaving
camp I gave the campmen their orders (I had two at that time) to move
the camp during the day six miles east, or as near that point as they
could find wood and water for camp purposes.
We were to start from the township corner that morning, and survey a
line due east. Provided it should prove a good country for surveying, we
could nearly or quite reach the opposite township corner, a distance of
six miles, where I had ordered the campmen to pitch camp.
This was in the late autumn when the days were short, and at that season
we took no lunch with us. The usual time for us to finish breakfast and
leave camp in the morning was as early as sunrise.
On the day mentioned, our line was principally through a timbered and
brushy country, so when night came we had completed but three and
one-half miles.
Just before it began to grow dark, we left the survey and started east,
expecting to find our camp within two or three miles. We had traveled
about that distance when we came to a wagon trail or road, the course
of which was nearly north and south, and near which was plenty of wood
and water. We hallooed, as was our custom, to attract the attention of
the campmen, but received no reply.
Under ordinary conditions we could be heard at least one mile, and
sometimes, when conditions were more favorable, nearly or quite two
miles. As we heard no reply from the campmen, we followed the road south
about three miles, but could hear nothing from our camp. We then
retraced our steps to the point at which we first intersected the road,
and followed it in the opposite, or northerly direction, for about an
equal distance, but could hear no reply to our calls, when we felt
certain the camp could not be in that direction.
We again retraced our way to about the point at which we had at first
intersected the road. We had seen no house on that day.
It was then about eleven o’clock at night. I saw a place by the roadside
where there was an abundance of dry wood, and I said to the party that I
should camp there for the night. They all concluded to adopt a similar
course. We started a good blaze and remained near it until morning.
When morning came we started to find either our camp or some house. One
of the men went with me, and we traveled in a southerly direction. The
two other men went in another direction.
About ten o’clock in the forenoon we came to a small cabin. We entered
it and found a man there who was living alone. I asked him if he could
prepare something eatable for us, as we had eaten nothing since early
in the morning on the day previous. He replied he was alone and that he
could do nothing for us. I said to him: “Have you any provisions of any
kind about your house?” His reply was that he had a little. I said that
“we _must_ have some of such as you have,” and that if he did not
produce it for us himself we would help ourselves to such as we might be
able to find about the house. He at once kindled a fire and prepared us
a dinner, but it was near noon before our meal was in readiness.
Previous to the time our dinner was in readiness the other two men made
their appearance, and they had become so much exhausted and faint for
the want of food, they had been eating the barks and roots of trees.
The next day I commenced work again without looking for camp any
farther, but selected a line in another direction, which was through a
country with settlements.
We worked three or four days, stopping at the houses for accommodations
at night, before we heard anything from camp. Then the campmen found us,
and I afterwards learned, although they would not admit it at that time,
that instead of going six miles east, they traveled six miles south, and
camped about nine miles from the point where they were ordered to go.
On another occasion, at the time I was engaged in running a party for
Mr. Elder, upon going to camp one evening when it was nearly dark, we
followed a line into a brushy bottom, to correct a quarter section post
that had been set on a random line by the other party at work for Mr.
Elder. One man accompanied me, who was present with the other party when
the post was located. We followed the surveyed line and found the post
without difficulty, and made the necessary correction, marking witness
trees, etc.
At that time we knew the location of our camp, as it was not to be
removed on that day. It was not more than a mile distant in a straight
line. To follow the line back, upon which we had come, until we should
reach the open land, and then go to camp would double the distance to be
traveled.
The man with me proposed to take the short cut through the brush, and
claimed to know the way as he had been over the same route with the
other party. It was becoming quite dark, and I consented to his
leadership, against my better judgment, which was something I seldom
did, to follow another in the woods.
The route was very brushy, with much fallen timber, and being quite
dark, our progress was slow. We continued to travel, making our way
through the tangled brush as best we could. At length we came to a small
river, from which we drank some water, and where we rested for a short
time.
It being dark, it was impossible to read the bearing from the
instrument. It was my opinion that we had not traveled altogether in a
direct line. My companion desired to cross the stream, but I was
convinced that we were on the same side as was our camp.
We again started and traveled until about eleven o’clock, previous to
which I had utterly abandoned all hope of reaching camp on that night.
As we came to a tall white fir tree, I said to my companion that I
should camp under that tree for the night, as I believed we had traveled
in a circle, at least to some extent, and there was no possibility for
us to reach camp before daylight. He didn’t agree with my opinion, and
he claimed we had traveled nearly in a straight line. He thought that we
must be near camp, and left me, expecting to reach camp within a short
time.
I climbed the tree, probably to a height of nearly 100 feet, to break
off some twigs, on which to lie down for the remainder of the night. I
remained in the tree for a considerable time, listening to the noise
that came from my companion as he made his way through the brush. His
progress was slow, as ours had been, and I could distinctly hear the
brush crack, but instead of keeping a straight line, as he supposed he
was doing, he soon began to bear away to the left in a curved line. He
continued to circle to the left, but not for once did he pass beyond my
hearing.
In about three-quarters of an hour after he left me, I could hear him
approaching from nearly the opposite direction from that in which he had
started. I descended the tree and awaited his approach. When he had
reached a point within a few rods of me, he hallooed. I answered his
call. He seemed surprised and came to me. His first question was how I
came there. It was some time before I could convince him of the fact
that I had remained during his absence at the same place where he had
last parted from me.
He thought he had traveled in a straight line, and when he first heard
my voice in answer to his call, he believed he was almost in camp. When
he became convinced that he had passed around in a circle, and had made
no progress toward camp, he seemed to be satisfied to remain with me
until morning. The next morning I led the way to camp without any
difficulty, where we arrived shortly after breakfast time, having been
without food for some more than twenty-four hours.
These are sample or specimen cases, and many other similar, more or less
varied experiences could be related, if space would permit, such as
sleeping out in the mountains in the winter season, with one blanket
only, with a cold drenching rain falling all through the night. I have
awakened to find myself completely covered with snow two or three inches
in depth, with the exception of my face.
At that time there were roaming in the coast and cascade ranges of
mountains and valleys numerous wild animals, such as grizzly and black
bears, cougars or mountain lions, wild cats, gray wolves and coyotes,
deer, moose and many other species of animals. There were also two or
three kinds of rattlesnakes.
Sometimes we would approach within sight of one of the animals, which
would seem to be pleased to increase its distance between us as rapidly
as possible. They are savage, ferocious animals when aroused, but when
they are respected and passed at a distance without being interfered
with in any way, they are seemingly not to be feared. To keep peace with
them, their rights as monarchs of the forests should always be
respected.
In San Francisco I met Mr. James E. Freeman, who was about to start on a
survey of the public lands of California, and he desired me to assist
him in doing the work. He offered me a salary of ten dollars per day and
board for the entire time we should be absent from San Francisco in
completing the work of the contract. I considered that to be a very
liberal offer, and I hesitated before declining it. However, as I had
made a start for home, and my mind had been fully decided in that
direction, I concluded not to make a change.
I also found my uncle, Alfred Cummings, in San Francisco, occupied with
carpenter work, and he had concluded to go home with me.
San Francisco had greatly increased in size and population, and had
improved its condition during my absence. I remained there eight or ten
days awaiting the departure of a steamer for Panama.
We left San Francisco near the end of July and took passage on the
steamer Yankee Blade. Before reaching Panama the coal became exhausted,
and we landed on a small, uninhabited island, where wood was cut and
carried aboard the vessel in boats for fuel, in order to complete the
voyage. We were then within two or three days sail of Panama.
In due time we reached Panama, where we landed and remained over night.
At that time the Panama railroad had been completed from Aspinwall to a
point about nine miles distant from the town of Panama, and near the
summit of the isthmus. We left Panama the next morning, riding on mules,
which were provided us by the steamship company, anticipating that we
would reach Aspinwall, on the Atlantic shore, and board the steamer for
New York that evening.
We reached the end of the railroad without any undue delay, and boarded
a train of cars for Aspinwall, but from some cause or causes, to the
passengers unknown, there were many delays, and our progress on that
day was quite discouraging. We were sidetracked for the night, but a few
miles distant from the point of starting, and the engine left us, word
being given out that the cars would not move until morning. I procured
something to eat at a small restaurant, and slept for the night upon the
table at the same place. In the morning we supposed we were to go
directly through to Aspinwall, but similar delays to those experienced
the day preceding occurred, and when night came we were again
sidetracked only a few miles distant from the place we spent the night
previous, and at a distance from any place where we could procure
refreshments. The patience of the passengers had become almost
exhausted.
There were no conveniences for sleeping in the cars. They were full of
passengers and the atmosphere was very bad, caused by poor ventilation.
Some time during the early part of the night I went to the rear platform
of one of the cars and laid down and soon fell asleep. This was a
platform I supposed the passengers would not use to pass over when going
out or into the cars.
During the night some one in passing out in the darkness came in contact
with me, which caused me to awake, and I spoke to him. He told me if I
should continue to lie there in the night air, with no covering, I
should almost certainly contract the deadly Panama fever. I replied that
I would take the risk, and again fell asleep and enjoyed a very
comfortable rest for the night. The next day the train took us through
to Aspinwall with but little delay.
What caused the necessity to detain several hundreds of passengers in a
train of cars for three days and two nights while traveling a distance
of less than fifty miles, and where there was very little accommodation
for refreshments or sleep, I could never comprehend.
At Aspinwall we boarded one of the steamers for New York. We had a fine
passage to New York, where we arrived without any undue delay.
We remained in New York over one night, when we proceeded on our journey
home, where we arrived near the last of August, 1854, after an absence
of a little more than five years and four months.
ADDENDA.
THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.
There are conflicting accounts as to who was the real discoverer of gold
in California. Long before its actual existence was known the country
was pictured as a marvelous Eldorado. As early as 1524 Cortes was given
a dazzling description of a “wonderful island in the Pacific exceedingly
rich in pearls and gold.” Drake said in his journal, “the country seems
to promise rich veins of gold.” The native Indians claimed that gold
existed among the streams, and in 1766 Jonathan Carver wrote with a
spirit of prophecy that “probably in the future ages the land may be
found to contain more riches in their bowels than those of Indostan.” So
account after account is given premising the existence of the precious
mineral, until in 1847 Capt. Charles Bennett discovered gold near
Sutter’s mill, while there in partnership with James W. Marshall, who
has since been credited as its discoverer. Bennett has a marble shaft
standing in the Odd Fellows’ cemetery at Salem, Ore., stating that he
was the “Discoverer of Gold in California, and Fell in the Defense of
His Country at Walla Walla,” in 1855, fighting the Indians. Marshall has
a more pretentious statue at Coloma, Cal., proclaiming him as the
discoverer of the yellow nugget that started the stream of golden wealth
from the Pacific slope, which was to pour into the channels of trade in
the United States until nearly two billion of dollars can be traced to
the beginning of the hardy Argonauts who panned the first free gold.
This story would not be complete without mention of the fact that
another claimant as discoverer of the precious mineral was a young woman
by the name of Emma Bonney, who was spending the winter of 1845-6 in the
vicinity of Sutter’s port. As the United States had not then acquired a
title to the country, her discovery was not heralded abroad and nothing
came of it.
Until 1847 California had remained a part of Mexico, and was very
sparsely settled. At that time, with the exception of a small settlement
of Mormons established by Brigham Young in July, 1847, on the shore of
Salt Lake, Utah, the country between the Missouri line, near Fort
Independence, and the Sacramento valley, a distance of more than two
thousand miles, was an almost unbroken wilderness, without civilized
inhabitants, and spoken of as the “Great American Desert.” As every
schoolboy knows, or ought to know, Col. John C. Fremont was the real
conqueror of California, and immediately the treaty was signed, which
made it a part of the United States, the discovery of gold was
proclaimed to the world, and instantaneously the invasion began.
Not alone to Fremont and the Gold Seekers belongs the entire credit of
conquering California and transforming it into a wonderland. Before the
doughty Pathfinder had found his way hither the sloop of war Portsmouth,
built at the Kittery navy yard just opposite of the city, whose name the
gallant vessel was to bear, in 1843. She sailed from Portsmouth
December 9, 1844, to join the squadron of Commodore J. D. Sloat in the
Pacific, where she arrived in season to participate in the Mexican War.
On July 9, 1846, her crew under command of Lieut. J. S. Missroon, landed
at Yerba, Buena, as San Francisco was then known, and took possession of
the town, raising for the first time, the American flag over California.
Not all of the Gold Seekers of ’49 went overland, as Mr. Webster and his
party did. Considerable debating was done at the time as to which was
the best route; around Cape Horn with its storms and vicissitudes, to
say nothing of the longer period of time required to make the passage;
across the Isthmus of Panama, with its vexatious delays and constant
dangers from tropical diseases; or by the Overland Trail, which seemed
to promise a more speedy arrival at the destination, though that was
fraught with great peril from hostile redmen and the hardships of
crossing an unknown country.
While naturally of a different experience the story of those who went to
the Land of Gold around Cape Horn is not less interesting than that of
those who performed the tedious and terrible trip across the plains.
Besides the perils of the deep to be met and overcome were the
sufferings from scurvy and other complaints belonging to a life on the
sea in those days. After all those who fared worse were the ones who
tried the middle route to find themselves stranded in a tropical country
unable to find ways and means of crossing the stretch of land lying
between the oceans. Some tried the journey on foot, to perish by the way
or reach the western shore, only to find themselves no better off as
far as continuing their course to the hoped-for Eldorado; many were
finally obliged to seek passage on some homeward-bound ship, without
having realized their dreams.
Whichever way they went, upon their arrival in the gold fields the mines
proved a wonderful leveler of the classes of men. No distinction of rank
was known there. Lawyers, doctors, ministers, men who wore kid gloves
and tall hats in the East, were glad to dig in the trenches with the
lowliest of laborers, all working for the same reward, the golden
talisman of fortune. Unable for any reason, to succeed in the mines,
some sought other ways of earning a living, if not a fortune, and so the
schoolmaster sawed firewood, the erstwhile judge of an eastern court
catered to a hungry crowd, while some business man performed the part of
a cook, so wild were the pranks fate played upon these fortune-seekers.
But if few came back rich, as wealth is reckoned, all helped to found in
power and prestige the glory of the Pacific Slope.
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
is told in=> are told in {pg 9}
forms one of the=> form one of the {pg 9}
cabins beeing seen=> cabins being seen {pg 31}
made an ineffiectual=> made an ineffectual {pg 34}
continuel to fill=> continued to fill {pg 36}
becoming more accustimed=> becoming more accustomed {pg 42}
on the prarie=> on the prairie {pg 48}
caused our misfortunte=> caused our misfortune {pg 70}
Feeling sowewhat=> Feeling somewhat {pg 72}
precipitous moutain=> precipitous mountain {pg 93}
pay of the winers=> pay of the miners {pg 101}
were buiding a dam=> were building a dam {pg 108}
had not succeed=> had not succeeded {pg 109}
Physician’s charges=> Physicians’ charges {pg 110}
point of exploson=> point of explosion {pg 125}
CHAPER VII.=> CHAPTER VII. {pg 137}
but unforunately=> but unfortunately {pg 145}
use the portractor=> use the protractor {pg 151}
something about portracting=> something about protracting {pg 151}
preceptibly turned=> perceptibly turned {pg 152}
suddely come=> suddenly come {pg 153}
excruiating pains=> excruciating pains {pg 166}
Pacific mail steam-=> Pacific mail steamer. {pg 189}
I might thing it=> I might think it {pg 195}
topograpical object=> topographical object {pg 203}
we hade made=> we had made {pg 206}
All stream considered navigable=> All streams considered navigable {pg
207}