THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL
The question arose, which of the two roads shall we pursue--follow the
old road--the advantages and disadvantages of which we are pretty well
informed; or shall we risk the new one of which we know nothing, except
from unreliable reports.
The question was submitted to a vote of the company, and it was in favor
of trying the “Cutoff,” as it is called, with scarcely a dissenting
vote. Haynes and Fifield, who left the company at Raft River, left a
posted notice here, which showed them to be several days in advance of
us. They chose the old trail, and cautioned us against taking the new
one, as it was their opinion that it was a longer and a poorer road.
The “Cutoff” leaves the Humboldt River at a bend, where it curves more
southerly, and at what in later times was called “Wannamucca” on the
Central Pacific Railroad. The “Cutoff” leaves the river and crosses a
desert plain, very barren and slightly undulating, in a westerly
direction.
We left the Humboldt with the expectation of being at the gold mines in
about a week, providing the reports were reliable as to the distance. We
traveled 14 miles after leaving the river before we found water. At that
place we found a spring, but there being several trains camped here
tonight, it was with great difficulty that we could procure water
sufficient for the needs of our mules and horses.
There is not a spear of grass to be found in this section, and we were
compelled to tie our mules to sage brush to keep them from straying
away, without a particle of food. (Distance, 31 miles.)
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15.
We started this morning at 5.30 o’clock and traveled 19 miles across a
barren, undulating desert, when we came to a place known as the Rabbit
Wells, where four or five wells, some 8 or 10 feet deep, have been
excavated by the immigrants in advance for the purpose of obtaining
water for themselves and their stock.
These wells, with one or two exceptions, were filled with dead animals.
Having seen the water at the bottom and being so eager to obtain it,
they rushed head first into them, where they perished and could not well
be extricated. The water of these wells is of a poor quality and proved
to be scarce.
After traveling six or seven hours over a very dusty road on a hot day,
it is far better than none. There was a large number of immigrants at
the wells and it was difficult to obtain a sufficient quantity of water,
it being dipped up with tin cups as fast as it ran into the wells. We
remained there one hour and a half and obtained what water we were able
to, but could get very little for our animals. Neither was there
anything for them to eat.
As we had no beef killed we had nothing for dinner. Beef had been our
principal dependence for some time past. It had become very poor and we
had almost nothing to cook it with. There are no “Buffalo chips” this
side of the Rockies.
We started in the afternoon and at about sunset came in sight of Black
Rock (Spring), which was then about nine miles distant across a level,
barren plain.
When within about six miles of Black Rock one of the mules which I was
driving became so exhausted that he refused to go any farther, and I was
obliged to unpack and leave him with the pack by the roadside; after
which I reached Black Rock at about eleven o’clock at night.
The company, with a few exceptions, had arrived in advance of me and
were principally asleep. I traveled the whole distance (40 miles) on
foot, and drove two mules and one horse, which made considerable extra
travel. I had no dinner or supper, and after arriving at Black Rock,
rolled myself in my blankets and was soon asleep.
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 16.
The country over which we made forty miles yesterday is known as the
Black Rock Desert, and the road is literally strewn with dead
animals--cattle, horses and mules. The stench of these dead and decaying
carcasses contributes largely to render the traveling still more
disagreeable than it would otherwise be.
The Black Rock Spring, so-called, is a spring several feet in diameter,
out of which the water is continually boiling at or near a boiling
point. The water may be drank after being cooled sufficiently, but is
not very good water.
We started early this morning and traveled three miles where we found a
small quantity of grass and camped. This is the first grass that our
animals have found to eat since Friday noon--nearly 45 hours--since
which time we have traveled over 60 miles. After we had camped we had a
beef animal slaughtered, and a little before noon we managed to get a
breakfast, which was the first that some of us had eaten since Friday
night.
There are several hot springs in this vicinity. Beef will cook quite
quickly in them.
Some of our mules and cattle were left behind on the road yesterday,
with a few packs by the roadside.
George Carlton, with two or three others of the company, went back to
procure the packs, together with as many of the animals as were able to
be brought into camp. They succeeded in bringing into camp the whole
number that had been left by our company. (Distance, 3 miles.)
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17.
Started in the afternoon and traveled eleven miles where we found some
grass and camped.
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18.
We remained here until afternoon, when we broke camp and traveled 15
miles to Mud Lake, where we stopped for the night. Our course since
leaving Humboldt has been nearly northwest and we have traveled upward
of 80 miles.
The country is nearly all a barren desert, with very little vegetation
except wild sage. What is known as Mud Lake resembles at this time a
marsh more than a lake, and is covered with large coarse grass. It may,
perhaps, be more of a lake at some seasons of the year. (Distance, 15
miles.)
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19.
We did not move our camp today.
This is the point where General Palmer’s corps had a battle with the
Indians a few weeks since, but we have not seen an Indian since we left
the Humboldt River.
A large percentage of the immigration took this route and have passed
this point, but it is thought now that the report stating that it did
not exceed 180 miles from the Humboldt to Feather River mines, was very
unreliable and untruthful.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20.
We started in the morning and soon after entered a canyon and traveled
12 miles in the forenoon and halted where the rocky bluffs rise nearly
300 feet almost perpendicularly on either side.
Traveled up the canyon nine miles in the afternoon and camped at a
spring. Canyon I believe to be a Spanish word and means a deep gorge,
ravine, or gulch between high, steep banks, worn by water courses.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21.
Cold morning. Started at 7 o’clock in the morning and traveled up the
canyon 12 miles in the forenoon over a very rough road. In the
afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a spring.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 22.
Started early in the morning and went over a ridge a distance of 7
miles, thence over a plain 10 miles and camped.
We had a distant view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains today.
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23.
Traveled 5 miles today and camped at a spring.
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 24.
Decamped early in the morning and after traveling 10 miles, passed
several hot springs. Went 9 miles farther and found good grass and
water, where we halted two hours, after which we traveled 3 miles and
camped at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in some large timber,
it being the first large trees we have met with since coming into the
Great Interior Basin, a distance of about 700 miles. With the exception
of a few small valleys along the streams and lakes and at the base of
the mountains, the Great Basin seems to be a very barren country. It is
a very disagreeable country to travel over.
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25.
We started this morning and traveled northerly along the base of the
Sierras about six miles. We then began to ascend toward the summit of
the ridge, and after traveling three miles up a very steep ascent we
reached the summit.
This seems to be the “Divide” between the waters of the Great Basin and
those of the Pacific Ocean. After reaching the summit we soon began to
descend and after a descent of one mile entered a beautiful valley. In
the afternoon we traveled 10 miles through a heavy growth of yellow pine
timber and camped.
It was after dark before we camped and we unpacked our mules at the top
of a steep bluff overlooking a lake, known as Goose Lake. No water near
our camp ground. The company is scattered tonight, having camped in
several different places along the trail.
After we had camped Mr. Carlton and myself volunteered to go to the lake
for water, and with buckets we started down the steep, rocky bluff which
we found difficult of descent, especially in the dark. The distance was
about one-half mile to the base, or shore of the lake, where we
anticipated finding an abundant supply of water. But to our great
disappointment, we found nothing but a field of dry sand.
However, we supposed we must be very near the shore of the lake, and
started in that direction. We traveled about two miles farther over the
dry sand, indulging the fond hope of soon reaching the waters of the
lake, when we would have the privilege and pleasure of quenching our
thirst, which was almost unbearable.
But we were doomed to disappointment as we found nothing but a lake of
sand--dry and difficult to travel over; and we returned--climbed the
mountain and lay down to rest as best we could. To be really thirsty,
with no means of getting water, is truly a horrid sensation. (Distance,
20 miles.)
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26.
We left camp early in the morning and eventually reached an abundant
supply of water.
We left the Oregon trail, which bears northerly along the west end of
Goose Lake, our course being nearly south. Our camp last night was near
the line separating the Territories of California and Oregon. We
traveled down a valley and camped on a small mountain stream. Road good.
(Distance, 17 miles.)
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 27.
After traveling a short distance this morning we came to the head of
Pitt River.
Traveled down the valley 12 miles in the forenoon and 9 in the afternoon
and camped on the river, which is a rapid stream nearly as large as the
Humboldt.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28.
Traveled down the river 23 miles and found an excellent road and a good
supply of grass.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29.
Traveled 20 miles over a rough road and camped on Pitt River. Grass
good.
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 30.
We did not move our camp today. Latitude 40° 7´.
The valley along this river has a fertile soil and produces a good
quality and a sufficient quantity of grass, but is bordered on both
sides by lofty mountains, timbered with pine, fir and spruce. The
Indians are said to be very hostile, but we have not met with any since
crossing the mountains. They are said to have killed several immigrants
within a short time.
MONDAY, OCTOBER 1.
We left camp at an early hour and traveled down the river 14 miles in
the forenoon and 8 in the afternoon. We found a good road and grass
plentiful.
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2.
We broke camp at 7 in the morning and soon after left the river and went
over a rough, hilly road 12 miles, where we stopped near a small stream
and had our lunch. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a
spring.
The road was uneven and through a heavy growth of timber. We met with
some oak timber on the road today, it being the first we have seen since
near the Missouri line.
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 3.
Started early and first traveled up a long hill, or mountain about 6
miles, and thence 5 miles farther, and finding no water we halted. In
the afternoon we traveled 11 miles, where we found good water and
camped. The country through which we have traveled today is well
timbered.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4.
Broke camp at 7 o’clock in the morning and traveled 15 miles in the
forenoon and halted at Little Goose Lake. We traveled 4 miles in the
afternoon, when we found a bountiful supply of good grass and water and
camped.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5.
We traveled 14 miles and camped at Feather Lake, it being the source of
the north fork of Feather River country appears to be nearly all very
heavily timbered.
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6.
We traveled 6 miles through a dense forest and reached a branch of
Feather River; then traveled down the river 6 miles, where we came into
a large meadow; thence down along the meadow 5 miles and camped. A
branch of Feather River passes through this meadow and it is known as
the Feather River Meadow.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 7.
Traveled down the river 2 miles and camped.
MONDAY, OCTOBER 8.
It was thought by many of the company that it might be practical to
follow the river down to the Feather River mines, and thus save much
time and travel in avoiding the long, circuitous route by the way of the
Sacramento valley and Lassen’s Ranch, and consequently, six of us
started in the morning with about two days’ rations, pursued a
southerly course through the mountains and in six miles of travel came
to a small stream. We then crossed a mountain ridge about 9 miles and
came into a fine bottom prairie 8 miles in length with a small stream
passing through the center. We went down the valley three miles, built a
fire by the side of a large pine log, and ate our supper. The meal
finished we laid ourselves down for the night--Indian fashion--keeping
one at a time of the party on watch during the night to give the alarm
should any Indians make their appearance. We discovered fresh Indian
signs in the little valley today.
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 9.
The morning was cool and very foggy. We started as soon as it was fairly
light, and went on down the little valley to the southern end, where the
stream enters a deep, high canyon with high precipitous mountains on
both sides. We traveled down the canyon about one mile farther and found
the mountains so extremely rough, we became convinced that it would be
an impossibility to travel through them with mules and horses. We gave
up the expedition and started for camp, where we arrived about one
o’clock very much fatigued.
We did not move our camp today.
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 10.
Traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and 8 miles in the afternoon and
camped on Deer Creek.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 11.
A part of the night was rainy, which was not very agreeable, as we have
not had our tents set for a long time, or since we left Raft River. We
traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and halted at a spring where there was
no grass. In the afternoon we went on 8 miles farther and camped at a
spring. No grass.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12.
We started at one o’clock at night and traveled over a rough road
through a dense forest 10 miles and halted, where we found water
one-half mile north of the road--down a steep mountain--but no grass.
Started again at 8 o’clock and after traveling six miles we emerged from
the dense forest through which we have traveled for several days past,
and came into a very barren country. Went five miles farther and halted,
with neither grass nor water.
In the afternoon we traveled nine miles and camped on Antelope Creek,
one mile south of the road. The country through which we have traveled
today is extremely rough and barren. (Distance, 30 miles.)
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13.
Break camp in the morning and after three miles of travel we entered the
Sacramento valley--the valley which we have so long wished to see.
Traveled eight miles farther and halted on Deer Creek.
In the afternoon we passed Lassen’s Ranch and camped on the bank of the
Sacramento River. (Distance, 17 miles.)
The full distance from where we left the old trail at Winnemucca on the
Humboldt to this place, as kept by me, is 466 miles; and since we left
Independence, Mo., 2,130 miles.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 14.
Moved our camp down the river one mile and camped again.
MONDAY, OCTOBER 15.
We did not move our camp today.
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 16.
We traveled down the Sacramento 23 miles and camped on a creek. We have
found fine grass since we entered this valley.
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17.
We traveled 24 miles down the river and crossed Feather River and camped
on the southern bank.
We are now very near Feather River mines, which we were told we could
reach in 180 miles from the forks of the roads on the Humboldt at
Winnemucca. Instead, as per my account, which I believe is very nearly
correct, the distance is 514 miles as we have traveled it.
We left the Humboldt River, September 14, and reached here October 17,
being 33 days on the “Greenhorn’s Cutoff,” as it is now commonly known.
Probably nearly one-half of the immigrants came by this route.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18.
We remained encamped here today, endeavoring to make some division of
the property of the Granite State and California Mining and Trading
Company, but did not agree upon any plan that was satisfactory to a
majority.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 19.
A division of the stock--cattle, mules and horses--was effected in the
forenoon, and some of us went up to the mines in the afternoon. A
portion of the members appeared dissatisfied with the division. We had
but few cattle left and they were very thin and in poor condition. Many
of our mules and horses had died, and were left on the road; and those
that were alive were nearly all seemingly worn out and of but little
value.
The Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company was this day
dissolved by a unanimous vote of its members.
It would have been dissolved long before it reached California had it
not been for the beef cattle, which were the means of holding it
together. They were their principle dependence for food, and it was not
practical to divide them among small squads, as they would have been of
very little benefit to them.
When we entered the Sacramento valley we had but three or four young
cattle and they were so very poor that they could scarcely travel. They
constituted our entire stock of provisions.
Two or three gross errors were committed by the managers before we left
Boston, which were the cause, in great part, of the great length of time
consumed on the road. First, the company should not have consisted of
more than ten members, and it should not have been a
[Illustration:
From an Old Drawing
SUTTER’S MILL, 1849.]
joint stock company; but each member should have provided for himself as
he saw fit, with mules and provisions.
Then we should have had good mules, not less than four years old, and
such as had been broken to packing. The majority of our mules were not
over two or three years of age and had never been broken. They were
entirely unfit for the exceedingly strenuous journey “across the
plains.” For a pack train to drive cattle on that journey for their
dependence for their provisions is a great absurdity.
Had we traveled as rapidly as we expected and intended to have done when
we started on the journey, we could not have driven our cattle very long
until they would have died.
Each man should have owned three or four trained mules in good
condition. I am of the opinion that under good conditions and properly
managed, the journey may be made, fairly easily, in 70 days, with a good
pack train consisting of 10 or 12 active, energetic and courageous men.
We were about 144 days on the road, or about twice the time that should
have been needed under proper conditions and management.
The last cutoff, or the “Greenhorn’s Cutoff,” as it became to be
generally known, that we were induced to adopt proved to be more than
300 miles farther than it was represented to be in distance, and
probably more than 200 miles longer than the old California trail that
we left.
It was currently reported and probably with truth, that some time early
in August, after the immigrants had begun to pass down the trail on the
Humboldt River, a man with a party was sent out over the mountains and
deserts by Lassen, whose ranch was located on the Sacramento River, to
induce so much of the immigration as possible to take that route and
which he called the “Cherokee Cutoff,” and represented the distance to
be but 180 miles to the Feather River mines, with a good road to travel
over with many superior advantages over the old trail.
This new route entered the Sacramento valley near the Lassen ranch, and
as Lassen owned many cattle and horses, he was able to profit largely by
his trade with the tired and famished immigrants.
He probably succeeded in profiting several thousand dollars by his trade
with the poor immigrants, and it is currently reported that the
immigrants have threatened his life, and that they have killed many of
his cattle for food, without any remuneration to him.
A large number of immigrants are still behind, many of them with little
or no subsistence, and had not the Californians sent out mules, horses,
cattle and provisions, probably many of them would have perished with
starvation.
The journey “across the plains” is a very hard experience, the hardships
and privations of which cannot be realized by any one who has not
undertaken it.
On the other hand, it presents much interesting scenery--the grand, the
beautiful and the sublime. Lofty mountains and green, verdant valleys,
majestic rivers and sandy, barren plains--all contribute, with much
more, to make it a very interesting, and in a way, an enjoyable
experience.
Nature may be seen in its wildest grandeur where civilization and art
have neither added to its usefulness nor retrenched its beauty.
The full distance traveled from Independence, Mo., to the Sacramento
River, at Lassen’s Ranch, as kept by me, is as follows:
In May, 73 miles; in June, 429 miles; in July, 436 miles; in August, 471
miles; in September, 523 miles; in October, 198 miles. This makes it
2,130 miles to Sacramento River. To Feather River, near Oroville, 2,178
miles.