I find that I have not done justice to the cotton tree, and, on the

other hand, have given too much praise to the Jamaica kitchen. The first

cotton trees which I saw, were either withered by age, or struck by

lightning, or happened to be ill-shaped of their kind; but I have since

met with others, than which nothing could be more noble or picturesque,

from their gigantic height, the immense spread of their arms, the colour

of their stems and leaves, and the wild fantastic wreathings of their

roots and branches. As to the kitchen, nothing can be larger and

finer in appearance than the poultry of all kinds, but nothing can be

uniformly more tough and tasteless; and the same is the case with all

butcher’s meat, pork excepted, which is much better here than in Europe.

The fault is in the climate, which prevents any animal food from being

kept sufficiently long to become tender; so that when a man sits down

to a Jamaica dinner, he might almost fancy himself a guest at Macbeth’s

Covent-Garden banquet, where the fowls, hams, and legs of mutton are all

made of deal boards. I ordered a duck to be kept for two days; but it

was so completely spoiled, that there was no bearing it upon the table.

Then I tried the expedient of boiling a fowl till it absolutely fell to

pieces; but even this violent process had not the power of rendering it

tender. The only effect produced by it was, that instead of being helped

to a wing of solid wood, I got a plateful of splinters. Perhaps, my

having totally lost my appetite (probably from my not being able to

take, in this climate, sufficient of my usual exercise) makes the meat

appear to me less palatable than it may to others; but I have observed,

that most people here prefer living upon soups, stews, and salted

provisions. For my own part, I have for the last few weeks eaten nothing

except black crabs, than which I never met with a more delicious article

for the table. I have also tried the _soldier_ soup, which is in great

estimation in this island; but although it greatly resembled the very

richest cray-fish soup, it seemed to be composed of cray-fish which had

been kept too long. The _soldiers_ themselves were perfectly fresh, for

they were brought to the kitchen quite alive and merry; but I was told

that this taste of staleness is their peculiar flavour, as well as their

peculiar scent even when alive, and is precisely the quality which forms

their recommendation. It was quite enough to fix my opinion of the soup:

I ate two spoonfuls, and never mean to venture on a third.

MARCH 12.

The most general of negro infirmities appears to be that of lameness.

It is chiefly occasioned by the _chiga_, a diminutive fly which works

itself into the feet to lay its eggs, and, if it be not carefully

extracted in time, the flesh around it corrupts, and a sore ensues not

easily to be cured. No vigilance can prevent the attacks of the chiga;

and not only soldiers, but the very cleanest persons of the highest

rank in society, are obliged to have their feet examined regularly. The

negroes are all provided with small knives for the purpose of extracting

them: but as no pain is felt till the sore is produced, their extreme

laziness frequently makes them neglect that precaution, till all kinds

of dirt getting into the wound, increases the difficulty of a cure; and

sometimes the consequence is lameness for life.

There is another disease which commits great ravages among them; for

although in this climate its quality is far from virulent, and it is

easy to be cured in its beginning, the negro will most carefully conceal

his having such a complaint, till it has made so great a progress

that its effects are perceived by others. Even then, they will never

acknowledge the way in which they have contracted it; but men and women,

whose noses almost shake while speaking to you, will still insist upon

it that their illness arises from catching cold, or from a strain in

lifting a weight, or, in short, from any cause except the true one. Yet

why they act thus it is difficult to imagine; for certainly it does not

arise from shame.

Indeed, it is one of their singular obstinacies, that, however ill they

may be, they scarcely ever will confess to the physician what is really

the matter with them on their first coming into the hospital, but will

rather assign some other cause for their being unwell than the true one;

and it is only by cross-questioning, that their superintendents are able

to understand the true nature of their case. Perhaps this duplicity is

occasioned by fear; for in any bodily pain it is not possible to be more

cowardly than the negro; and I have heard strong young men, while the

tears were running down their cheeks, scream and roar as if a limb was

amputating, although the doctoress was only applying a poultice to a

whitlow on the finger. I suppose, therefore, that dread of the pain of

some unknown mode of treatment makes them conceal their real disease,

and name some other, of which they know the cure to be unattended with

bodily suffering or long restraint. In the disease I allude to, such

a motive would operate with peculiar force, as one of their chief

aversions is the necessarily being long confined to one certainly not

fragrant room.

MARCH 13.

The Reporter of the African Institution asserts, in a late pamphlet,

that in the West Indies the breeding system is to this day discouraged,

and that the planters are still indifferent to the preservation of

their present stock of negroes, from their confidence of getting fresh

supplies from Africa. Certainly the negroes in Jamaica are by no

means of this Reporter’s opinion, but are thoroughly sensible of their

intrinsic value in the eyes of the proprietor. On my arrival, every

woman who had a child held it up to show to me, exclaiming,--“See massa,

see! here nice new neger me bring for work for massa;” and those who had

more than one did not fail to boast of the number, and make it a claim

to the greater merit with me. Last week, an old watchman was brought

home from the mountains almost dead with fever; he would neither move,

nor speak, nor notice any one, for several days. For two nights I sent

him soup from my own table; but he could not even taste it, and always

gave it to his daughter. On the third evening, there happened to be no

soup at dinner, and I sent other food instead; but old Cudjoe had been

accustomed to see the soup arrive, and the disappointment made him fancy

himself hungry, and that he could have eaten the soup if it had been

brought as usual: accordingly, when I visited him the next morning, he

bade the doctoress tell me that massa had send him no soup the night

before. This was the first notice that he had ever taken of me. I

promised that some soup should be ordered for him on purpose that

evening. Could he fancy any thing to eat _then?_--“Milk! milk!” So milk

was sent to him, and he drank two full calabashes of it. I then tried

him with an egg, which he also got down; and at night, by spoonfuls at

a time, he finished the whole bason of soup; but when I next came to see

him, and he wished to thank me, the words in which he thought he could

comprise most gratitude were bidding the doctoress tell me he would do

his best not to die yet; he promised to _fight hard_ for it. He is

now quite out of danger, and seems really to be grateful. When he was

sometimes too weak to speak, on my leaving the room he would drag his

hand to his mouth with difficulty, and kiss it three or four times

to bid me farewell; and once, when the doctoress mentioned his having

charged her to tell me that he owed his recovery to the good food that

I had sent him, he added, “And him kind words too, massa; kind words

do neger much good, much as good food.” In my visits to the old man, I

observed a young woman nursing him with an infant in her arms, which (as

they told me) was her own, by Cudjoe. I therefore supposed her to be his

wife: but I found that she belonged to a _brown_ man in the mountains;

and that Cudjoe hired her from her master, at the rate of thirty pounds

a year!

I hope this fact will convince the African _Reporter_, that it is

possible for some of this “oppressed race of human beings”--“of these

our most unfortunate fellow-creatures,”--to enjoy at least _some_ of the

luxuries of civilised society; and I doubt, whether even Mr. Wilberforce

himself, with all his benevolence, would not allow a negro to be quite

rich enough, who can afford to pay thirty pounds a year for the hire of

a kept mistress.

MARCH 14.

Poor Nato’s stock of goodness is quite exhausted; and the day before

yesterday he returned to the hospital with most piteous complaints of

pains and aches, whose existence he could persuade no person to credit.

His pulse was regular, his skin cool, his tongue red and moist, and the

doctor declared nothing whatever to be the matter with him. However,

on my arrival, he began to moan, and groan, and grunt, and all so

lamentably, that every soul in the hospital, sick or well, burst into a

fit of laughter. For my part, I told him that I really believed him to

be very bad; and that, as he met with no sympathy in the hospital, I

should remove him from such unfeeling companions. Accordingly I had

a comfortable bed made for him in a separate house. Here he was

plentifully supplied with provisions: but, in order that he might enjoy

perfect repose daring his illness, the doors were kept locked, and no

person allowed to disturb him with their conversation; while, by the

doctor’s orders, he was obliged to take frequent doses of Bitter-Wood

and Assafotida. Shame would not suffer him to get well all at once; so

yesterday he still complained of a pain in his chest, and begged to be

blooded. His request was granted; and the blood proved to be so pure

and well-coloured, that every one exclaimed, that for a man who had

such good blood to part with it so wantonly was a shame and a folly. The

fellow was at length convinced that his tricks would serve no object;

and this morning he begged me to suffer him to return to his duty,

and promised that I should have no more cause to complain of him. So

I consented to consider his cure as completed, and he set off for the

field perfectly satisfied with his release.

MARCH 15.

On opening the Assize-court for the county of Cornwall on March 4.,

Mr. Stewart, the Custos of Trelawny, and Presiding Judge, said, in his

charge to the jury, he wished to direct their attention in a peculiar

manner to the infringement of slave-laws in the island, in consequence

of charges having been brought forward in England of slave laws not

being enforced in this country, and being in fact perfect dead letters.

The charge was unfounded; but it became proper, in consequence, for the

bench to call in a strong manner on the grand jury to be particularly

vigilant and attentive to the discharge of this part of their duty. The

bench at the same time adverted to another subject connected with the

above. Many out of the country, and _some in it_, had thought proper

to interfere with our system, and by their insidious practices and

dangerous doctrines to call the peace of the island into question, and

to promote disorder and confusion. The jury were therefore enjoined, in

every such case, to investigate it thoroughly, and to bring the parties

concerned before the country, and not to suffer the systems of the

island, as established by the laws of the land, to be overset or

endangered. It was their bounden duty to watch over and support the

established laws, and to act against those who dared to infringe them;

and that, otherwise, it was imperiously called for on the principle

of self-preservation. Every country had its peculiar laws, on the due

maintenance of which depended the public safety and welfare. I read all

this with the most perfect unconsciousness; when, lo and behold! I have

been assured, from a variety of quarters, that all this was levelled at

myself! It is I (it seems) who am “calling the peace of the island

in question;” who am “promoting disorder and confusion;” and who am

“infringing the established laws!” I should never have guessed it! By

“insidious practices” is meant (as I am told) my overindulgence to my

negroes; and my endeavouring to obtain either redress or pardon for

those belonging to other estates, who occasionally appeal to me for

protection: while “dangerous doctrines” alludes to my being of opinion,

that the evidence of negroes ought at least to be _heard_ against white

persons; the jury always making proportionable abatements of belief,

from bearing in mind the bad habits of most negroes, their general want

of probity and good faith in every respect, and their total ignorance of

the nature of religious obligations. At the same time, these defects may

be counterbalanced by the respectable character of the particular negro;

by the strength of corroborating circumstances; and, finally, by the

irresistible conviction which his evidence may leave upon the minds

of the jury. They are not obliged to _believe_ a negro witness, but I

maintain that he ought to be _heard_, and then let the jury give their

verdict according to their conscience. But this, in the opinion of the

bench at Montego Bay, it seems, is “dangerous doctrine!” At least, the

venom of my doctrines is circumscribed within very narrow limits; for

as I have made a point of never stirring off my own estate, nobody could

possibly be corrupted by them, except those who were at the trouble of

walking into my house for the express purpose of being corrupted.

At all events, if I _really_ am the person to whom Mr. Stewart alluded,

I must consider his speech as the most flattering compliment that I ever

received. If my presence in the island has made the bench of a whole

country think it necessary to exact from the jury a more severe

vigilance than usual in all causes relating to the protection of

negroes, I cannot but own myself most richly rewarded for all my pains

and expense in coming hither, for every risk of the voyage, and for

every possible sacrifice of my pleasures. There is nothing earthly that

is too much to give for the power of producing an effect so beneficial;

and I would set off for Constantinople to-morrow, could I only be

convinced that my arrival would make the Mufti redress the complaints of

the lower orders of Turks with more scrupulous justice, and the Bashaws

relax the fetters of their slaves as much as their safety would permit.

But I cannot flatter myself with having done either the one or the other

in Jamaica; and if Mr. Stewart _really_ alluded to me in his charge, I

am certainly greatly obliged to him; but he has paid me much too high a

compliment;--God grant that I may live to deserve it!

MARCH 16.

Hercules, the poor paralytic runaway, has neither moved nor spoken since

his being brought into the hospital. For the two last days he refused

all sustenance; blisters, rubbing with mustard, &c. were tried without

producing the least sensation; and in the course of last night he

expired without a groan.

Another offender, by name Charles Fox, is also under the doctor’s hands,

suffering under the effects of his own transgressions. Having been

Pickle’s shipmate, he professed the strongest attachment to him, and was

perpetually at his house; till Pickle’s wife made her husband aware that

love for herself was the real object of his shipmate’s visits. Finding

her story disbelieved, she hid Pickle behind the bed, when he had an

opportunity of hearing the solicitations of his perfidious Pylades; and,

rushing from his concealment, he gave Fox so complete a thrashing,

that he was obliged to come to the hospital. Here is another proof that

negroes, “our unfortunate fellow-creatures,” are not without some of

the luxuries of civilised life; old men of sixty keeping mistresses, and

young ones seducing their friends’ wives; why, what would the Reporter

of the African Institution have?

It is only to be wished, that the negroes would content themselves with

these fashionable peccadilloes; but, unluckily, there are some palates

among them which require higher seasoned vices; and besides their

occasional amusements of poisoning, stabbing, thieving, &c., a plan has

just been discovered in the adjoining parish of St. Elizabeth’s, for

giving themselves a grand fête by murdering all the whites in the

island. The focus of this meditated insurrection was on Martin’s Penn,

the property of Lord Balcarras, where the overseer is an old man of the

mildest character, and the negroes had always been treated with peculiar

indulgence. Above a thousand persons were engaged in the plot, three

hundred of whom had been regularly sworn to assist in it with all the

usual accompanying ceremonies of drinking human blood, eating earth from

graves, &c. Luckily, the plot was discovered time enough to prevent any

mischief; and yesterday the ringleaders were to be tried at Black River.

MARCH 17. (Sunday.)

The Cornwall Chronicle informs us, that, at the Montego Bay assizes, a

man was tried on the Monday, for assaulting, while drunk, an officer who

had served with great distinction, and calling him a coward; for which

offence he was sentenced to a month’s imprisonment and fine of £100; and

on the Tuesday the same man brought an action against another person

for calling him a “drunken liar,” for which he was awarded £1000 for

damages! A plain man would have supposed two such verdicts to be rather

incompatible; but one lives to learn.

I remember to have read the case of a French nobleman, who was accused

of impotence by his wife before the Parliament of Paris, and by a

farmer’s daughter for seduction and getting her with child before the

Parliament of Rouen; he thought himself perfectly sure of gaining either

the one cause or the other: but, however, he was condemned in both.

Certainly the poor Frenchman had no luck in matters of justice.

To make the matter better, in the present instance, the man was a

clergyman; and his cause of quarrel against the officer was the latter’s

refusal to give him a puncheon of rum to christen all his negroes in a

lump.

MARCH 22.

Mr. Plummer came over from St. James’s to-day, and told me, that the

“insidious practices and dangerous doctrines” in Mr. Stewart’s speech

were intended for the Methodists, and that only the charge to the grand

jury respecting “additional vigilance” was in allusion to myself; but he

added that it was the report at Montego Bay, that, in consequence of

my over-indulgence to my negroes, a song had been made at Cornwall,

declaring that I was come over to set them all free, and that this was

now circulating through the neighbouring parishes. If there be any such

song (which I do not believe), I certainly never heard it. However, my

agent here says, that he has reason to believe that my negroes really

have spread the report that I intend to set _them_ free in a few years;

and this merely out of vanity, in order to give themselves and their

master the greater credit upon other estates. As to the truth of an

assertion, that is a point which never enters into negro consideration.

The two ringleaders of the proposed rebellion have been condemned at

Black River, the one to be hanged, the other to transportation. The plot

was discovered by the overseer of Lyndhurst Penn (a Frenchman from

St. Domingo) observing an uncommon concourse of stranger negroes to a

child’s funeral, on which occasion a hog was roasted by the father. He

stole softly down to the feasting hut, and listened behind a hedge

to the conversation of the supposed mourners; when he heard the whole

conspiracy detailed. It appears that above two hundred and fifty had

been sworn in regularly, all of them Africans; not a Creole was among

them. But there was a _black_ ascertained to have stolen over into the

island from St. Domingo, and a _brown_ Anabaptist missionary, both of

whom had been very active in promoting the plot. They had elected a King

of the Eboes, who had two Captains under him; and their intention was

to effect a complete massacre of all the whites on the island; for which

laudable design His Majesty thought Christmas the very fittest season

in the year, but his Captains were more impatient, and were for striking

the blow immediately. The next morning information was given against

them: one of the Captains escaped to the woods; but the other, and the

King of the Eboes, were seized and brought to justice. On their trial

they were perfectly cool and unconcerned, and did not even profess to

deny the facts with which they were charged.

Indeed, proofs were too strong to admit of denial; among others, a copy

of the following song was found upon the King, which the overseer had

heard him sing at the funeral feast, while the other negroes joined in

the chorus:--

SONG OF THE KING OF THE EBOES.

Oh me good friend, Mr. Wilberforce, make we free!

God Almighty thank ye! God Almighty thank ye!

God Almighty, make we free!

Buckra in this country no make we free:

What Negro for to do? What Negro for to do?

Take force by force! Take force by force!

CHORUS.

To be sure! to be sure! to be sure!

The Eboe King said, that he certainly had made use of this song, and

what harm was there in his doing so? He had sung no songs but such as

his brown priest had assured him were approved of by John the Baptist.

“And who, then, was John the Baptist?” He did not very well know; only

he had been told by his brown priest, that John the Baptist was a friend

to the negroes, and had got his head in a pan!

As to the Captain, he only said in his defence, that if the court would

forgive him this once, he would not do so again, as he found the whites

did not like their plans which, it seems, till that moment they had

never suspected! They had all along imagined, no doubt, that the whites

would find as much amusement in having their throats cut, as the blacks

would find in cutting them. I remember hearing a sportsman, who was

defending the humanity of hunting, maintain, that it being as much the

nature of a hare to run away as of a dog to run after her, consequently

the hare must receive as much pleasure from being coursed, as the dog

from coursing.

MARCH 23.

Two negroes upon Amity estate quarrelled the other day about some

trifle, when the one bit the other’s nose off completely. Soon after his

accident, the overseer meeting the sufferer--“Why, Sambo,” he exclaimed,

“where’s your nose?”

“I can’t tell, massa,” answered Sambo; “I looked every where about, but

I could not find it.”

MARCH 24. (Sunday.)

Every Sunday since my return from Kingston I have read prayers to

such of the negroes as chose to attend, preparatory to the intended

visitations of the minister, Dr. Pope. About twenty or thirty of the

most respectable among them generally attended, and behaved with great

attention and propriety. I read the Litany, and made them repeat the

responses. I explained the Commandments and the Lord’s Prayer to them,

teaching them to say each sentence of the latter after me, as I read it

slowly, in hopes of impressing it upon their memory. Then came “the

good Samaritan,” or some such apologue; and, lastly, I related to them

a portion of the life of Christ, and explained to them the object of

his death and sufferings. The latter part of my service always seemed

to interest them greatly; but, indeed, they behaved throughout with much

attention. Unluckily, the head driver, who was one of the most zealous

of my disciples, never could repeat the responses of the Litany without

an appeal to myself, and always made a point of saying--“Good Lord,

deliver us; yes, sir!” and made me a low bow: and one day when I

was describing the wonderful precocity of Christ’s understanding, as

evidenced by his interview with the doctors in the temple, while but

a child, the head driver thought fit to interrupt me with--“Beg massa

pardon, but want know one ting as puzzle me. Massa say ‘the child,’ and

me want know, massa, one ting much; was Jesus Christ a boy or a girl?”

Like my friend the Moravian, at Mesopotamia, I cannot boast of any

increased audience; and if the negroes will not come to hear massa, I

have little hope of their giving up their time to hear Dr. Pope, who

inspires them with no interest, and can exert no authority. Indeed, I am

afraid that I am indebted for the chief part of my present auditory to

my quality of massa rather than that of priest; and when I ask any of

them why they did not come to prayers on the preceding Sunday, their

excuse is always coupled with an assurance, that they wished very much

to come, “because they wish to do _any thing_ to oblige massa.”

MARCH 25.

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