Orsova—Castle of the Pass—Turkish Guard—Quarantaine
Ground—Village of Tekia—Awkward Mistake—Pretty Woman—Gay
Dress—A Visiter—Servian Cottagers—A Discovery—Departure—A
Volunteer—Receiving House—A Forced March—The Grave-Yard—The
Quarantaine—A Welcome to Captivity—A Verbal Coinage—Pleasant
Quarters—M. le Directeur—The Restaurant—Pleasant
Announcement—Paternal Care of the Austrian Authorities—The
Health-Inventory—The Guardsman’s Sword—Medical
Visits—Intellectual Amusements—A Friendly Warning.
We reached Orsova after a drive of about three hours; and passed through
the court of the castle that guards the pass on the Servian side, and
which must have been of great strength when in repair. A buttressed
tower, perforated from its base to its summit with loop-holes for
musketry, occupies the side of the hill immediately above the fort; and
the site of this stronghold is so cunningly chosen, that it is invisible
from the Viennese side of the river until you come close upon it, owing
to its being built in a gorge between two boldly-projecting rocks. A
couple of Turks, armed to the teeth, were lounging at the outer gate,
who uttered a courteous “Bouroum” as we passed the archway; while a
man, stationed on the roof of the tower, gave out a wild shrill cry,
evidently intended as a signal.
The town and fortress of Orsova occupy an island of considerable length,
and have a very picturesque appearance; the gleaming minaret of the
solitary mosque cutting against the party-coloured foliage that clothes
the hills by which it is overshadowed; and the castellated and
buttressed wall of the town reflecting itself in the river-tide. Much of
this wall is now in ruin, although it may still be traced entirely along
the bank. The island was fortified by the Austrians, but was afterwards
ceded to the Turks, together with the fortress of Belgrade by the
Emperor Leopold.
From this point we could distinguish the Quarantaine establishment,
niched in at the foot of the Banût mountains, and distant from the town
of Alt Orsova about a mile. But we were obliged to overshoot it by
nearly half a league, from the fact of there being no boats for hire
until we reached the village of Tekia, situated by the river side,
whence the embarkations of the “condemned” universally take place.
As we had considerably out-travelled our companions who had remained
with the luggage-waggons, we resolved to await them here; and, the
gentlemen having discovered what they supposed to be a coffee-kiosk, I
gladly availed myself of the cool, clean apartment to which they
summoned me; and the more readily that I was welcomed on the threshold
by one of the prettiest women imaginable. She must have been about
eighteen; and she had all the bloom of youth, combined with all the
grace of womanhood.
I have already remarked on the erect carriage of the Servian females;
and our new acquaintance was no exception from the rest of her
countrywomen. Her eyes and hair were dazzlingly dark and bright; and she
had a lovely glow upon her cheek that told a tale of health and
happiness. Her rich tresses were wound about her head above a small
Smyrniote fèz, with a falling tassel of purple silk; and the smooth
braids that pressed her fair young brow were partly shrouded beneath a
painted muslin handkerchief. Her dress of violet silk was made precisely
like those of the Constantinopolitan Jewesses, and girt about the waist
by a girdle of pale yellow; and above it she wore a scarf of pink muslin
embroidered with gold, crossed upon her bosom; and a jacket of wadded
green sarsenet with wide sleeves; stockings she had none, but her feet
were shrouded in purple slippers; and altogether she was as pleasant a
specimen of Servian beauty as the eye could desire to look upon.
As we were self-deluded into the conviction that we were in a
coffee-kiosk, and as we were suffering severely from heat and thirst,
we unhesitatingly ordered coffee and wine, which were instantly brought;
and to which our pretty hostess added sweetmeats and water, presented by
herself with a blush and a smile that quite verified the sentiment of
the old song, which says:
“If woman be but fair,
She has the gift to know it.”
We were shortly joined by an important-looking personage, clad in a
richly-furred and embroidered jacket and greaves of bright scarlet: who
seated himself in the midst of us, called for wine, replenished his
pipe, and made himself so thoroughly at home, that when the pretty
hostess chanced to leave the kiosk, we inquired whether she were his
daughter: expressing at the same time our admiration of her beauty. It
was not without some surprise that we learnt from the plain middle-aged
individual to whom we addressed ourselves, that the young beauty was his
wife; and moreover the adopted daughter of Prince Milosch, who had
bestowed her upon him in marriage, as a mark of his peculiar regard. He
did not appear in the least annoyed by the glances of unequivocal
admiration which the gentlemen, who had so long inhabited a land of
lattices and yashmacs, could not refrain from turning on her as she
moved among them busied in the offices of hospitality; but appeared to
treat her rather as a spoiled child, than as the partner of his
fortunes.
A tour of the village being proposed by one of the party, we started on
an exploring expedition; but met with nothing particularly interesting.
The peasantry were remarkably respectful and courteous, every one rising
as we approached their cottage door, and saluting us with a smile of
perfect good-humour; while we won the hearts of the mothers by dividing
among the numerous children who were sporting on all sides, a collection
of copper coins made during the journey, of which we knew neither the
names nor the value. They were a plain race, coarsely formed, and
universally disfigured by feet of an unwieldly size; but, nevertheless,
the women all carried themselves like empresses; and their glittering
head-dresses, and large silver earrings, rendered their appearance
almost attractive.
When the rest of our caravan arrived, we discovered the error into which
we had been betrayed by our ignorance of the locality; being informed by
the agent who had accompanied us from Scala Glavoda, in order to deliver
us up to the quarantaine authorities, that we were the guests of the
chief man of the village; to whom it was utterly impossible that we
could offer any remuneration for all the trouble that we had given in
his house. Such being the case, we could only overwhelm him with
acknowledgements and compliments; with which he was so well satisfied,
that he declared his intention of accompanying us down the river as far
as the station at which we were to land, in order to proceed on foot to
our temporary prison.
When the large flat-bottomed barge in which we were to be conveyed
thither, was freighted with our packages, and that we were about to push
off, we were detained for an instant by the declaration of the little
Servian beauty that she had determined to be of the party; and on board
she accordingly came, having flung over her house-costume a magnificent
pelisse of grey cloth, edged with sable, and worked with gold.
In half an hour we reached a long wooden shed, built as a receiving
house for the quarantaine; and here we were detained until our patience
was fairly outworn, and that our hunger had become positively painful. A
double partition of wood parted us from the authorities, who graciously
welcomed us to the horrors of incarceration; and we were obliged to seat
ourselves on the luggage, and await the arrival of the bullock-carriages
that were to convey our travelling-gear to its destination.
All was at last accomplished; and after taking leave of our pretty
Servian companion, who laughed heartily at my pressing invitation to her
to share our imprisonment; we followed the train of waggons; the rear
of the party being brought up by an Austrian soldier, armed with a
loaded musket, and a fixed bayonet. We were, however, in no mood to
yield to gloomy ideas or feelings. We had a blue sky above us, a fine
turf beneath our feet, and the prospect of another half hour of
comparative liberty; and we were straggling gaily about the plain,
laughing and speculating on our approaching imprisonment, when we were
called to order by the guard; and compelled to keep to the high road,
lest we should contaminate the grass and thistles among which we were
wandering.
Before we reached the quarantaine-ground, we passed the grave-yard
destined to receive those who die of plague during their incarceration.
It was closely fenced; and rendered still more gloomy by a tall
crucifix, painted red, and supporting a most revolting effigy of Our
Lord.
On ringing a bell the great gates of the establishment were flung
“hospitably” back, and we were requested to allow the waggons to enter
before us, lest we should contaminate the oxen by our contact; and,
after passing through a couple of walled yards, surrounded by warehouses
for receiving merchandize, we entered a third enclosure wherein we were
met by the governor and surgeon; who, keeping at a respectful distance,
invited us to enter a dark, whitewashed, iron-grated cell, in order to
have our passports examined.
A wooden lattice separated us from our new hosts; and the peasant who
had conducted us from the river side, stood in front of a small opening
made for the purpose, and held at arm’s length the papers which were
demanded. Much bowing and scraping ensued between M. le Directeur, the
foreign Noblemen, and the Hungarian Chevalier; and we had reason to
congratulate ourselves on their companionship, as it produced a visible
increase of courtesy on the part of the local authorities: a courtesy
which did not, however, exempt us from the “locks, bolts, and bars” of
the Lazaretto. As I was only the second lady who had been unfortunate
enough to come under his keeping, the Governor very politely resolved to
commence his arrangements by providing me with as good a cell as he had
then vacant—not that he called the space into which he was about to
consign me, a _cachot_—by no means—the word “cell” being somewhat
grating, another term has been invented; and the dens of the Lazaretto
of Orsova are designated _colleves_, which signifies—nothing.
But before we could take possession of our prison, another gate had yet
to be unlocked; which admitted us into a large space enclosed within a
high wall, and containing the _élite_ of the accommodations. The cells,
like those of a madhouse in Turkey, were built round the four sides of a
garden; and each had a small entrance-court, paved with stone. As none
of the buildings were capacious enough to contain our whole party, it
was at length arranged that five of us should take one of them, in which
we might make such arrangements as we preferred; and that the three
others should be accommodated as near to us as possible. Upon which
understanding M. le Directeur, a plump, good-natured-looking little old
man, with a bit of soiled red ribbon displayed in the button-hole of a
threadbare gray frock-coat, a ruffled shirt, and the funniest of all
forage-caps, led the way to cell, or I should rather say _colleve_, No.
2: and when one of his followers had unlocked the yellow and black gate
of the court, he bowed ceremoniously to me, as he pointed to two
melancholy-looking trees, which had contrived to exist amid the rude
paving, and exclaimed with a tone and gesture perfectly dramatic:
“_Soyez la bien-venue, Madame; voyez les beaux arbres que vous avez!_”
It was extremely fortunate that the day chanced to be one of cloudless
sunshine, and that we consequently saw every thing under its most
favourable aspect; for there was nothing particularly exhilarating in
the interior of the buildings. Windows both barred and grated; walls
whitewashed and weather-stained; chairs, tables, and sofa all of wood,
which is a “nonconductor,” and whitewashed like the walls; were the only
objects that met our eyes. But as we were all both tired and hungry, we
welcomed even these; and only begged to learn where we must address
ourselves, in order to procure some food with as little delay as
possible.
This brought us to the second feature of our position; for a window
whose shutter was padlocked up, was unfastened; a bell was rung, and at
a casement grated like our own appeared the Restaurateur of the
Lazaretto to receive his instructions. Dinner was instantly ordered;
bread and wine were speedily procured; and we were waited upon by a very
gaily-dressed, conceited individual, who announced himself to be “our
keeper;” a piece of intelligence which once more carried back my
thoughts to the _Timerhazès_, or madhouses of Constantinople; and I
began half to apprehend that we had indeed intruded into one of those
melancholy establishments. At five o’clock we were furnished with a very
bad dinner; bedding was brought in; and at sunset we were locked up.
On the morrow we were somewhat disconcerted to learn that the court of
the _colleve_ was to be our boundary during the ten days of our
imprisonment; and our officious “keeper” very carefully locked the gate
every time that he thought proper to make his escape. But this was a
trifling annoyance to that by which it was succeeded; and which
consisted of an announcement that at mid-day the Surgeon of the
Lazaretto, and the Examining Officer, would visit us, in order to take
an inventory of every thing in our possession. Each trunk, portmanteau,
and basket was to be unpacked; in short, we were even to declare the
contents of our purses!
We were already aware that the Austrian was the most paternal of all
Governments; taking an interest in the private affairs, not only of its
own subjects, but also in those of strangers; yet I confess that for
such a proceeding as the present we were totally unprepared.
There was, however, no remedy: and the “secret recesses” of every
package were laid bare before the “authorities.” The reason given for
this inconvenient and revolting stretch of power, is the desire of the
Government that, in the event of a decease, the friends of the dead
person may receive every part of his property upon demand; the inventory
held by the proper officers effectually preventing the keeper of the
_colleve_ from plundering the trunks; but certain little circumstances
which we remarked during the investigation rather tended to weaken our
faith in the disinterestedness of the arrangement.
When the possession of any Turkish article was mentioned, there was a
visible excitement. Even a lantern exhibited by my father was entered on
the list; and the number of chibouk-tubes, of tobacco purses, and other
trifles, which could have been of no value to the survivors of a
deceased person, were registered with equal exactness.
In my own case they were peculiarly inquisitive; counting my rings, and
recording my bracelets and necklaces. Not a pocket-handkerchief, nor a
waist-ribbon escaped; and I was more than once asked if I had really
exhibited the whole of my wardrobe. My books and drawings were seized
without ceremony, and carried off to be examined by the proper officer;
and the worthy functionaries at length departed in full possession of
all which related to our peripatetic properties.
It required a couple of hours to soften down the “chafed humours” of the
gentlemen of the party; which were not rendered more gentle by the
demand of the keeper, that they should deliver up all their arms, of
whatever description they might be; on the understanding that they were
to be restored to them on the day of their own delivery. But the request
did not meet with the ready acquiescence which had been anticipated.
Colonel——had travelled with the whole of his uniform; and when our
attendant advanced to lay sacrilegious hands upon his sword, which was
hanging over a chair, all the quick sense of honour of the British
soldier was roused at once; and, as the indignant blood rushed to his
brow, he vowed that he would fell to the earth the first man who dared
to meddle with his side-arms. In vain did the keeper insist, and the
Chevalier explain; the English heart beat too high to heed either the
one, or the other: and the pistol-laden functionary was obliged to
depart without the sword of the gallant Guardsman. Of course he made his
report to the Governor; but the worthy little old gentleman had too much
good sense to persist in the demand; and no allusion was afterwards made
to the subject.
Twice each day we were visited by the medical officer, who just popped
his head in at the door, and smiled forth: “Ah! quite well, quite well,
I see—impossible to be better—good morning,” and away he went, without
affording us time to complain had we been so inclined. M. le Directeur
also paid us several visits, always carefully pointing his cane before
him, as a warning to us not to approach him too closely: and never
failing to commence the conversation by the ejaculation of, “_Madame, je
vous salue—ha! les beaux arbres que vous avez!_” It was really worse
than ludicrous.
As a signal mark of favour, we were occasionally permitted to walk,
under the charge of the keeper, from the gate of our own
_colleve_-court to that of our friends, and to receive their visits in
return, when we had always a very laughable interview; the incarcerated
individuals amusing themselves by rocking to and fro behind the bars of
their prison-gates, and roaring like wild beasts in a menagerie.
There are two descriptions of persons to whom I would particularly
recommend an avoidance of the Quarantaine at Orsova—The _ennuyé_ and
the _bon vivant_. For the first there is no refuge save sleep, and the
few doggrel attempts at poetry which may be partially traced through the
whitewash; the outpourings of an impatient spirit weary of its thrall;
with the occasional society of the “keeper,” who is as cold and as
impracticable as his own keys. The very books of which the wanderer has
made his travelling companions; and some of which would bear a second
perusal, at all events in a quarantaine cell, are carried off and sealed
up, as though every volume were redolent of high treason; and he is left
to his own resources as ruthlessly as if he were indeed “the last man;”
and that he had done with the world, and the world with him.
To the second I need only hint that the _restaurant_ is a Government
monopoly, where you are provided for at a fixed sum per day; and fed
upon whatever it may please the Comptroller of the Kitchen to serve up.
Nor can you procure any wine save the sour and unpalatable _vin du
pays_, however liberally you may be disposed to pay for it.
Those travellers are fortunate who, like ourselves, can meet the
captivity of quarantaine with pleasant companions, light hearts, and
unfailing spirits; finding food for mirth in their very miseries; and
forgetting the annoyance of present detention in the anticipation of
future freedom.