Now step I o're the gulfe, to th' Istrian shoare,
Dalmatia, Slavonia, Ilyria, more,
Valona, Albana, Epyre in Greice,
And Morea fat, where Jason hurt his fleece:
The Adriatick, and Ionean Iles,
And Lesinaes great monster; Athens styles;
With Lacedemon sackt, and Sparta rent
From auncient worth: Arcadia poore and shent:
Our gulfe Lepanto, the Ætolian hight,
And all these coasts, till Candy come in sight.
After my returne from Padua to Venice & 24. days attendance devasted
there for passage, I imbarked in a Carmoesalo, being bound to Zara
Novo in Dalmatia: Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we
incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco e Lenante. The Master had no
compasse to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation;
because they use commonly, either on the South or North sides of the
Gulfe, to hoise up sayles at night, and againe breake of day they have
full sight of land; taking their directions from the topped hills of
the maine continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary,
we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.
Istria was called Giapidia, according to Pliny; Cato affirmeth it
was called Istria of one Isiro, but by the moderne writers, l'ultima
Regione di Italia. By Ptolomeus it is sayd to be of length 100. miles,
and forty large, but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large.
Istria hath on the South Friuli and the sea: on the West Stria:
on the North Carniola: on the East the gulfe [The antiquity of the
Istrians.] Carnaro or Quevero. It is thought the Istrians were first
a people of Colchis in Natolia, who by King Ætas being sent to pursue
Jason and the Argonauts (who had stolne the golden fleece and his
daughter Medea) either because of the long journey, or feare of the
Kings anger durst not returne, and so remained in this Country, where
they enjoyed a long freedom, til by many incursions of piracy, still
molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes Anno 938. &
afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo
about the yeare 1200.
That part which bordereth with the sea, belongeth to the Venetians,
but the rest within land holds of the Emperour, and the Archduke of
Austria. The Country it selfe aboundeth in cornes, wines and all kinds
of fruites necessary for humane life. Neare to this haven wherein we
lay, expecting roome windes, I saw the ruines [Justinopoli decayed.] of
old Justinopoli, so called of Justinian the Emperour, who builded it
upon an Iland of a miles length, and three acres broad: And to passe
betwixt the City and the firme land, there was seven bridges made. It
was aunciently strong, but now altogether decayed: The principall
Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humago, Pola, Rovigo.
The windes favouring us, we weighed Ankors, and sayled by the Iles
Brioni, so much esteemed, for the fine stones they produce, called
Istriennes: which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces. About
midday I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foote of which, the auncient
City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small shippes
may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect
of a contageous Lake neare to it, which infecteth the ayre with
a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruines of the
Castell di Oriando, the Arke Triumphant, and the reliques of a great
Amphitheatre. This Pola was called by Pliny, Julia pietas; and it
standeth in the South-east part of Istria. Continuing our course,
we passed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro.
This gulfe or bay of Carnaro, runneth in North, and by East 50.
miles within land, at the narrow entry whereof, it hath a part
of Istria on the West, and the Dalmatia on the East: The Venetians
use to keepe alwayes certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay,
on the Dalmatian side, to intercept the cursary of the Scoks:
In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna, Gradisca,
and Novagard, the chiefe Cities of Croatia: the people which inhabit
these Townes, and the adjoyning Countrey are called Scoks, a kind
of Dalmatians, being of a robust nature, courageous and desperate:
Their weapons are broad two handed swords, long Skenes, carrying
targets at their girdles, and long Gunnes in their hands: They are
marveilous swift on foote, and dayly annoy by land their neighbouring
Turkes with inrodes, fetching away great spoyles and booties, of [The
Scoks live under the house of Austria.] cornes, cattell and horses:
And by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines did ever and often vexe the
Venetian commerce, in their owne domesticke waters: The great losses
which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to
time received, and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes
in their trafficking with Venice, for whom the Venetians are bound
by former articles of peace, to keepe harmelesse within their owne
gulfe from all Christian invasions, was the onely and urgent cause
that moved the Venetians to wage warre with Ferdinando then Duke of
Grasse, and now Emperour, Anno Domini, 1616. And besieged Gradisca
to their no small disadvantage, both of charges and losse of men:
For the towne being strongly fortified with walles and munition, and
2000. Scoks within to defend it, would often at the neare approaching
of the enemy make a salley forth on horse and foote, giving many
miserable overthrowes to the Assailants: To the which detriments,
for twenty dayes space I was a testator, being after my returne from
Affricke in my second travels, as I was going for Hungary, Moldavia,
Valecchia and Transilvania, taking this countrey in my way: And one
morning at the breake of day, I saw 800. Scoks issuing out of towne,
make bloudy havocke of 3000. of the Venetian army: [Croatia.] This
part of Croatia is exceeding fertile, abounding in cornes, wines,
bestiall and pastorage, though then by lawlesse, and turbulent
souldiers, it was miserable defaced.
The whole number of these Scoks that are able to carry armes, be
not above sixe thousand men: They are wonderfull kinde to strangers,
which to me in no small measure was extended, and that by the better
sort their Captaines and Commanders, and onely for the affinity of
Scoki and Scoti, although I dare sweare, there is little or none at
all betwixt the two Nations.
Having passed Carnaro, we sayled close by the Ile Sangego, called
formerly Illrides: This Isle is of circuit foure score, and of length
thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the winds falling out
contrary to our expectation, we sought into Valdogosto in the Isle of
Osero, which is a safe haven for ships and Gallies. This Osero was
first named Asphorus, and then Absirtides, of a Captaine Absertus,
who came from Colchis, accompanied with many people, to bring backe
Medea to her carefull father. Whose purpose being frustrated, stayed
still, and inhabited this land. A fit oportunity obtained upon the
[Zara nova.] eighth day, we arrived in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia;
for there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seeke passage
for Ragusa.
By the way, I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Maister,
for offering my condition, I found him more then courteous, and
would have no more but the halfe of that, which was his bargaine
at Venice. Besides this, he also entertained me three dayes, with a
most bountifull, and kind acceptance: My solitary travelling he oft
bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but
I giving him absolute, and constant answers, appeased his imagined
sorrow.
[Ignorance and Sloth.] True it is, that ignorance and sloth, make
every thing terrible unto us, and we will not, because we dare not,
and dare not, because we will not: This makes us submit our selves
to any thing, that doth either flatter or threaten us: And like some
sottish weakelings, that give the reines of their governement into the
hands of their Wives or Servants, thinking then they buy their peace
when they sell it; thus doe they grow upon us, I meane ignorance and
sloth, and by composition, not force, become masters of the place,
being just so strong, as we are weake. And as contrary newes delivered
at one time, maketh one to heare with joy, and remember with sorrow;
even so an unresolved man, in high and heroyicke designes, though
seeming forward is distracted here, set on feare there, and rent
asunder every where with the flashing frights of desperation: But a
constant resolution can couragiously support all things; Ubicunque
homo est, ibi beneficio locus est. And congratulating this Skippers
courtesie, I bad farewell to his councell.
Zara is the capitall city of Dalmatia, called of old, Jadara. The
inhabitants are governed by a Camarlingo, or Chamberlaine, in the
behalfe of Venice. The walles whereof are strongly rampired with
earth; surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with
high Bulwarkes, and planted Canons on elevated Rampires of earth:
which are above forty cubites higher then the Walles and Bulwarkes;
standing in the foure severall corners of the city.
There lye continually in it; a great Garrison of Souldiers to defend
the towne and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice:
for he is Signior thereof. They have indured many invasions of the
Turkes, especially in the yeare one thousand five hundreth and seventy,
when for the space of fourteene moneths, they were dayly molested and
besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians: If the Turkes
could win this place, they might easily commaund the Adriaticall Seas,
in regard of that faire Haven which is there, to receive Ships and
Gallies; which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull because
of their safeguard.
Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffick with them,
but when they enter the gates, they must deliver their weapons to the
Corporall of the Squadron company: Neither may they stay within all
night under the paine of imprisonment. [Dalmatia.] Dalmatia was called
so of Mauritius the Emperour. The foure principall Provinces whereof
are these, Atheos, Senebico, Spalleto and Tragurio. A part of which
belongeth to Venice, another part to the arch Duke of Austria, and a
third unto the Turkes. Zara is distance from Venice two hundreth miles.
When the wandring night was chased from the inferiour Ilands, by the
recoursing day, and the Sunne had imparted his brightnesse to our under
neighbours, and our dreames ready to possesse the Theater of the fancy,
the wearisome creatures of the world declining to their rest; and under
shaddow of the pale Lady of the night; even then, from Zara I imbarked
in a small Frigot, bound for Lesina, with five Slavonian Marriners:
who sometimes sailed, & somtimes rowed with Oares: in our way we past
by the Ile of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough
for the Inhabitants, and kept by a Gentleman of Venice. It lieth in
the mouth of the gulfe Narento, that divideth Dalmatia from Slavonia:
Many fondly conceive that these two kingdomes are all one, but I hold
the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by auncient Authors:
having passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slavonia, I
saw upon my right hand, a round Rocke of a great height, in forme of
a Piramide; being cognominated by Easterne Mariners, Pomo, aunciently
Salyro, for the good Faulcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the
middest of the Gulfe betweene Slavonia and Italy, and not habitable.
A little beyond that Rocke, I saw the three Iles Tremiti: The chiefest
whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Iles of
Diomedes, who was King of Etolia. They are right opposite to Mount
Gargano, now called [Mount S. Angelo.] Saint Angelo, and distant from
the maine land of Apulia in Italy about nine miles.
This Mount Saint Angelo standeth in Apulia, bending in the Sea with
a large promontore, it is in compasse ninety miles? Neare to this
Mountaine, was that great battell fought, betweene Hanniball and
the Romanes: the overthrow fell to the Romanes, under the conduct
of Paulus Æmilius, and other Consuls, of whom were slaine fourty
two thousand and seven hundred; And if Hanniball had followed this
victory, he had easily that day subdued the common-wealth of Rome:
which made Maharball Captaine of his horse-men rebuke him thus,
Vincere scis Hanniball victoria uti nescis.
Thou canst o'recome thy foes in bloody fight,
But can not use the victory aright.
The like said Cæsar of Pompey, when he lost the first battell they
fought at Pharsalia in Greece; O Pompey, Pompey, If thou hadst knowne
how to have used the victory, as thou hadst it, thou mightest have
beene this day Lord of the whole World.
[A woful battell.] So to our lamentable memory, may that last battell
be recorded fought in Hungary, betweene the Turkes and Christians,
of whom Maxamilian Duke of Isbrugh this present Emperours Uncle was
Generall: who having had a nocturnall victory, and the Infidels put to
the flight, they remaining in the Campe more busie about the spoyles
then their owne safety; the Turkes returned againe before day, the
Christians being disordered with booties and the ravening of their
whores, they put them all to the edge of the sword: O miserable
confusion! Little better might I speake of the battell of Lepanto
being abusd even in the using of it, and that glorious victory no
waies followed, as good fortune had given them an awfull opportunity:
For Don John of Austria their Generall had a greater mind to seaze
upon the Ile of Corfu, and to robbe Venice of her liberty, then to
prosecute with vengeance the brave beginning of so notable a victory;
and yet his treachery was discoverd, and by the Venetian Generall
speedily disappointed, to his eternall shame both wayes.
The poore Slavonians being fatigated in their hunger-starving Boat,
with extraordinary paines (for we had three daies calme, which is not
usually seene in these Seas) were enforced to repose all night at
the barren Ile of St. Andrew: This Ile is of circuite foure miles,
but not inhabited: The excessive raine that fell in the evening,
made us goe on shoare, to seeke the coverture of some rocke; which
found, we lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies:
for our provision was spent. The breach of day giving comfort to our
distressed bodies, with favourable windes at the Garbo e ponente,
we set forward, and about midday we arrived in the Port of Lesina,
of which the Ile taketh the name.
This Ile of Lesina is of circuite, a hundred and fifty miles, and is
the biggest Iland in the Adriaticke Sea: It is exceeding fertile, and
yeeldeth all things plentifully, that is requisite for the sustenance
of man. The City is unwalled, and of no great quantity, but they
have a strong fortresse, which defendeth the Towne, the Haven, and
the vessels in the Roade. The Governour, who was a Venetian, after he
had enquired of my intended voyage, most courteously invited me three
times to his Table, in the time of my five dayes staying there: And
at the last meeting, he reported the story of a marvellous mis-shapen
creature borne in the Iland, asking if I would goe thither to see it:
wherewith (when I perfectly understood the matter) I was contented:
The Gentleman honoured me also with his company, and a horse to
ride on, where when we came, the Captaine called for the father of
[A Monster borne in Lesina.] that Monster, to bring him foorth before
us. Which unnaturall Childe being brought, I was amazed in that sight,
to behold the deformity of Nature; for below the middle part, there
was but one body, and above the middle there was two living soules,
each one separated from another with severall members. Their heads
were both of one bignesse but different in Phisnomy: The belly
of the one joyned with the posterior part of the other, and their
faces looked both one way, as if the one had carried the other on
his backe, and often before our eyes, he that was behind, would lay
his hands about the necke of the formost. Their eyes were exceeding
bigge, and their hands greater then an Infant of three times their
age. The excrements of both creatures issued foorth at one place,
and their thighes and legges of a great growth, not semblable to
their age, being but sixe and thirty dayes old; and their feete were
proportionably made like to the foot of a Cammell, round and cloven
in the middest. They received their food with an insatiable desire,
and continually mourned with a pitifull noyse; that sorrowfull man
told us, that when the one slept, the other awaked, which was a strange
disagreement in Nature. The Mother of them bought dearely that birth,
with the losse of her owne life; as her Husband reported, unspeakeable
was that torment she indured, in that woefull wrestling paine. I was
also informed afterwards, that this one, or rather twofold wretch
lived but a short while after we saw them.
Leaving this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange, and almost
incredulous Nativity, we returned to Lesiva. But by the way of our
backe comming, I remember that worthy Gentleman who shewed me the
ruines of an old house, where the noble [Demetrius.] King Demetrius
was borne; and after I had yeelded by bounden and dutifull thankes
unto his generous minde, I hired a Fisher-boate to goe over to Clissa,
being twelve miles distant. This Ile of Clissa is of length twenty,
and of circuit threescore miles: It is beautified with two profitable
Sea-ports, and under the Signiory of Venice. There are indifferent
good commodities therein; upon the South side of this Iland lieth
the Ile Pelagusa, a rocky and barren place.
Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa, we sailed
by the three Iles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; And when we entred in the
Gulfe of Cataro, we fetched up the sight of the Ile Melida, called
of old Meligna: Before we could attaine unto the Haven, wherein our
purpose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a sudden with a
deadly storme: Insomuch, that every swallowing wave threatned our
death, and bred in our breasts, an intermingled sorrowe of feare
and hope. And yet hard by us, and within a mile to the ley-ward,
a Barbarian man of war of Tunneis, carrying two tyre of Ordonance,
and 200. men, seaz'd upon a Carmosale of Venice, at the first shot,
she being loaden with Malvasie and Muscadine and come from Candy, and
had us also in chase till night divided our contrary designes. The
winds becomming favourable, and our double desired safety enjoyed,
both because of the sea storme, and of the stormy Pyrat, we set
forward in the Gulfe of Cataro, and sayled by the [Cursola.] Ile
Cursola: in this island I saw a walled towne called Curzola, which
hath two strong Fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for
the trafficke of Merchandize they have, and also for the fine wood
that groweth there, whereof the Venetian Ships and Gallies are made:
An Iland no lesse pleasant then profitable; and the two Governours
thereof are changed every eighteene moneths, by the State of Venice.
It was of old called Curcura, Melana, and of some Corcira Nigra,
but by the Modernes, Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by
the iles Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Catza Augusta, appertaining
to the Republike of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited and
fruitfull, yeelding cornes, wines, and certaine rare kinds of excellent
fruites. It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts,
because of the hidden shelfs that lie off in the sea, called Augustini,
where divers ships have beene cast away in fowle weather; upon the
second day after our loosing from Clissa, we arrived at Ragusa.
[Ragusa.] Ragusa is a Common-weale, governed by Senators, and a
Senate Counsell; it is wonderfull strong, and also well guarded,
being situate by the sea side, it hath a fine Haven, and many
goodly ships thereunto belonging: The greatest trafficke they have,
is with the Genueses: Their territory in the firme land is not
much in respect of the neighbouring Turkes, but they have certaine
commodious ilands, which to them are profitable: And notwithstanding,
of the great strength and riches they possesse, yet for their better
safeguard and liberty, they pay a yearly tributary pension unto the
great Turke, amounting to fourteene thousand Chickens of Gold: yea,
and also they pay yearely a tributary pension unto the Venetians, for
the Iles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe, so that both by
sea and land they are made tributary citizens. The most part of the
civill Magistrates, have but the halfe of their heads bare, but the
vulger sort are all shaven like to the Turkes.
This Citty is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of [Slavonia.] Slavonia:
Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next, Illiria, of Ilirio the
sonne of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slavonia, of certaine slaves that
came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, in the time of the
Emperour Justinian: Croatia lying North-west from hence, is the third
Province of this auntient Ilyria, and was formerly called Valeria,
or Corvatia: It hath on the West Istria and Carniola: on the East
and South, Dalmatia: on the North North-west a part of Carindia
quasi Carinthia, and northerly Savus: So much as is called Slavonia,
extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the river Drino in the
East, on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice, and on the
North with the Mountaines of Croatia: These Mountaines divide also
Ragusa from Bosna. Bosna is bounded on the West with Croatia, and
on the South with Illiricum, or Slavonia, on the East with Servia:
and on the North with the River Savus.
The next two speciall Citties in that Kingdome, are Sabenica
and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust nature, martiall, and
marvellous valiant fellowes, and a great helpe to maintaine the right
and liberty of the Venetian State, serving them both by sea and land,
and specially upon their Galleyes and men of Warre. From Ragusa
I imbarked in a Tartareta, loaden with corne, and bound to Corfu,
being three hundred miles distant.
In all this way we found no Iland, but sayled along the maine land
of the Illirian shoare: having passed the Gulfe of Cataro, and
Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo: which is a strong Fortresse,
situate on the top of a Rocke: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captaine
of Solyman, [4000. Spaniards starvd to death.] starved to death foure
thousand Spaniards. Having left Illiria Albania, and Valona behind
us, we sayled by Capo di Palone, the large promontore of which,
extendeth to eight miles in length, being the face of a square and
maine Rocke. This high land is the furthest part of the Gulfe of
Venice, and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria in Apulia, each
one in sight of another, and fourteene leagues distant. Continuing
our Navigation, we entred into the Sea Ionium, and sayled along the
coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdome of the Epirotes, and
the first beginning of Greece. Epirus is environed on the South with
the sea Ionian: on the East with Macedon; On the West North west,
with Albania; and on the North, with a part of Rascia, and the huge
Hill Hæmus: Of which Mountaine Stratonicus was wont to say, that
for eight moneths in the yeare, it was exceeding cold, and for the
other foure, it was Winter: This long Mountaine devideth also Greece
from Mysia, called vulgarly Bulgaria, lying on the North of Hæmus,
and to the South of Danubio, even Eastward to the Euxine sea: Which
River parteth also Dacia, from Mysia the superiour, the which Dacia
being an auncient and famous countrey, containeth these Provinces,
Transilvania, Moldavia, Vallachia, Servia, and Bosna: Here in this
Kingdome of Epyre, was the noble and valiant Pirhus King, who made
so great warres upon the Romanes, and at last by a woman of Argos
was killed with a stone: The most valerous Captaine George Castriot
surnamed [Scanderberg.] Scanderberg, the great terrour and scourge
unto the Turkes was borne here; of whom it is recorded, he slew at
diverse battels with his owne hands, above three thousand Turkes;
obtaining also many fortunate victories against Amurath and Mahomet:
After whose death and buriall, his body was digged up by the Turkes,
and joyfull was that man could get the least bit of his bones to
preserve, and carry about with him, thinking thereby so long as he
kept it, he should alwayes be invincible, which the Turkes observe
to this day, and likely to do it to their last day. And more,
Renoun'd Epire, that gave Olimpias life,
Great Alexanders Mother, Phillips Wife.
In this countrey are these two Rivers, Acheron and Cocytus; who for
their minerall colours, and bitter tasts, were surnamed the Rivers
of Hell; and the sacred Mount Pindus, celebrate to Apollo and the
Muses so well memorized by Poets, is here. It is now called Mezzona,
at the foote of which springeth the River of Peneia, called Modernely
Salepiros, but more properly Azababa, and keeping his extreamest
course through the fields of pleasure, named by the auncients Tempi,
being five miles long, and as much large, lying betweene the two
Hils Osso and Olympus, and watering that beautiful plaine, the
faire Peneian spring, or Azababan River, disburdeneth it selfe in
the gulfe Thessalonick. This is the first kingdom of Greece, and of
a great length consisting betweene the West, most part of Albania,
as a perpendicular Province annexed to it, and the Arcadian Alpes,
which divide Ætolia and Acarnania, the East-most regions of it,
from Sparta, Thessaly, and the old Mirmidons Countrey of Macedon,
amounteth to foure hundred and eight miles, lying along by the Sea
side, whose breadth extendeth all the way along Northward to the hill
Hæmus, above 68. miles. The chiefe Towne of Epyre, where the Kings
had their residence, was called Ambracia, modernely Laerto named of
a river running by it: And upon the sixt day after our departure from
Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.
[The Ile Corfu.] Corfu is an Iland, no lesse beautifull, then
invincible: It lieth in the Sea Ionean, the Inhabitants are Greekes,
and the Governours Venetians: This Ile was much honoured by Homer,
for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time. This
Alcino was that Corcyrian Poet, who so benignely received Ulysses
after his shipwracke, and of whom Ovid said.
Quid bifera Alcinoi referam pomaria? vosque,
Qui nunquam vacui prodistis in æthere rami,
Why blaze I forth, Alcinoes fertile soyle,
And trees, from whence, all times they fruit recoyle.
This Ile was given to the Venetians by the Corsicans,
Anno. 1382. because they were exposed to all the injuries of the world:
It lieth like to a halfe moone, or halfe a circle East and North: The
Easterne Cape is called Leuchino, the other Northward, St. Katerina;
the second Towne whereof is called Pagleopoli: It is of circuite one
hundred and twenty, in length fifty two, and thirty seaven in breadth,
and foureteene miles distant from Epyre. The City Corfu, from which the
Ile hath the name, is situate at the foote of a Mountaine, whereupon
are builded two strong Fortresses, and invironed with a naturall Rocke:
The one is called Fortezza Nova and the other Fortezza vecchia: They
are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation
of the one Captaine, the other should commit any treasonable effect:
And for the same purpose, the Governours of both Castles, at their
election before the Senatours of Venice are sworne; neither privately,
nor openly to have mutuall conference; nor to write one to another, for
the space of two yeares, which is the time of their government. These
Castles are inaccessable, and unconquerable, if that the Keepers be
loyall, and provided with naturall and martiall furniture. They are
vulgarly called, [Two strong Castles.] The Forts of Christendome, by
the Greekes; but more justly, The strength of Venice: for if these
Castles were taken by the Turkes, or by the Spanyard who would as
gladly have them, the trade of the Venetian Merchants would be of
none account; yea the very meane to overthrow Venice it selfe.
Corfu formerly Corcyra. was by some called Phæacia, so denominate from
a Virgin of that name, who was here supposed to have beene deflowred
by Neptune. This Ile produceth good store of Wines, Oyle, Wax, Honey,
and delicate fruits.
From thence after certaine daies abode, I imbarked in a Greekish
Carmesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greekes, Slavonians,
Italians, Armenians, and Jewes, that were all mindefull to Zante, and
I also of the like intent; being in all fourty eight persons: having
roome windes, and a fresh gale, in 24. houres we discovered the Ile
Cephalonia the greater; and sayled close along Cephalonia minor, or
the lesser Ithaca, called now Val di Compare, being in length twenty,
and in circuite fifty sixe miles, renowned for the birth of Laertes
sonne, Ulysses;
[Ithaca where Ulysses was borne.] From th'Ithac rockes we fled
Laertes shoare,
And curs'd the land, that dire Ulysses bore.
For Ilions sake, with Dardan blood attird,
Whose wooden horse, the Trojan Temples fird.
On our left hand toward the maine, we saw an Iland, called Saint Maure,
formerly Leucas, or Leucada; which is onely inhabited by Jewes, to
whome Bajazet the second gave it in possession, after their expulsion
from Spaine: The chiefe City is Saint Maure, which not long agoe was
subject to Venice. This Ile Saint Maure was aunciently contiguate
with the continent, but now rent asunder, and invironed with the sea:
In this meane while of our navigable passage, the Captaine of the
vessell espied a Saile comming from Sea, he presently being moved
therewith, sent a Mariner to the toppe, who certified him she was a
Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a straight course to invade
our Barke. Which sudden affrighting newes overwhelmed us almost in
despare. Resolution being by the amazed Maister demaunded, of every
man what was best to doe, some replyed one way, and some another:
Insomuch, that the most part of the passengers gave counsell,
rather to render, then fight; being confident, their friends would
pay their ransome, and so relieve them. But I the wandring Pilgrime,
pondering in my pensive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my
Country and friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Upon the
which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slavery, [A counsell to
fight.] I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Maister, saying: The halfe
of the Carmosalo is your owne, and the most part also of the loading
(all which he had told me before:) wherefore my counsell is, that
you prepare your selfe to fight, and goe encourage your passengers,
promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two peeces
of Ordonance, your Muskets, Powder, Lead and halfe-Pikes: for who
knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thraldome of these
Infidels, My exhortation ended, he was greatly animated therewith, and
gave me thankes; whereupon, assembling the passengers and Mariners,
he gave good comfort, and large promises to them all: So that their
affrighted hopes were converted to a couragious resolution; seeming
rather to give the first assault, then to receive the second wrong.
To performe the plots of our defence, every man was busie in the worke,
some below in the Gunner-roome, others cleansing the Muskets, some
preparing the powder and balles, some their Swords, and short weapons,
some dressing the halfe-pikes, & others making fast the doores above:
for so the Maister resolved to make combate below, both to save us from
small shot, and besides for boording us on a sudden. The dexterous
courage of all men was so forward to defend their lives and liberty,
that truely in mine opinion we seemed thrice as many as we were. All
things below and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked
in order with his Harquebuse and pike, to stand on the Centinell of his
owne defence, we recommended our selves in the hands of the Almighty:
and in the meane while attended their fiery salutations.
In a furious spleene, the first Hola of their courtesies, was
the progresse of a martiall conflict, thundring forth a terrible
noise of Galley-roaring peeces. And we in a sad reply, sent out a
backe-sounding eccho of fiery flying shots: which made an æquivox
to the clouds, rebounding backward in our perturbed breasts, the
ambiguous sounds of feare and hope. After a long and doubtfull fight,
both with great and small shot (night parting us) the Turkes retired
till morning, and then were mindfull to give us the new rancounter
of a second alarum. But as it pleased him, who never faileth his,
to send downe an unresistable tempest; about the breake of day we
escaped their furious designes; and were enforced to seeke into the
bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia; both because of the violent weather,
and also for that a great lake was stricken into our Ship. In this
fight there were of us killed three Italians, two Greekes, and two
Jewes, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right
arme with [A notable deliverance.] a small shot. But what harme was
done by us amongst the Infidels, we were not assured thereof, save
onely this, we shot away their middle mast, and the hinder part of
the puppe; for the Greekes are not expert Gunners, neither could our
Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boorded. But
howsoever it was, being all disbarked on shoare, we gave thanks to
the Lord for our unexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians
in a Greekish Church-yard, and the Jewes were interred by the sea side.
This bay of Largastolo is two miles in length, being invironed with
two little Mountaines; upon the one of these two, standeth a strong
Fortresse, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe. It was here
that the Christian Gallies assembled, in the yeare 1571. when they came
to abate the rage of the great Turks Armado; which at that time lay in
Peterasso, in the firme land of Greece, and right opposite to them; and
had made conquest the yeare before, of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.
The Ile of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned,
because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Ulysses, who
excelled all other Greekes in Eloquence and subtility of wit. Secondly,
by Strabo it was named Dulichi: And thirdly, by auncient Authors
[Cephalonia of old Ithaca.] Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captaine
of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion. The which Anfrittion, a Theban
Captaine having conquered the Iland, and slaine in battell Pterelaus
King of Teleboas, for so then was the Iland called, gave it in a gift
of government to Cephalo. This Cephalo was a Noble man of Athens,
who being one day at hunting killed his owne wife Procris, with an
arrow in steed of his prey, whereupon he flying to Amphitrion, and
the other pittying his case, resigned this Islle to him, of whom it
taketh the denomination: Cephalonia lyeth in the mouth of the Gulfe
Lepanto, opposite to a part of Ætolia and Acarnania in the firme land:
It is in circuit 156. and in length 48. miles.
The land it selfe is full of Mountaines, yet exceeding fertile,
yeelding Malvasia, Muskadine, vino Leatico, Raysins, Olives, Figges,
Honey, Sweet-water, Pine, Mol-berry, Date, and Cypre-trees, and all
other sorts of fruites in abundance. The commodity of which redounds
yearely to the Venetians, for they are Signiors thereof.
Leaving this weather-beaten Carmoesalo, layd up to a full sea,
I tooke purpose to travell through the Iland; in the first dayes
journey, I past by many fine Villages and pleasant fields, especially
the vaile Alessandro; where the Greekes told me, their Ancestors
were vanquished in battell by the Macedonian Conquerour. They also
shewed me on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruines of that Temple,
which had beene of old dedicate to Jupiter: and upon the second day
I hired two Fisher-men in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante,
being twenty five miles distant.
Here in Zante a Greekish Chyrurgion undertooke the curing of my arme,
& performed condition within time.
[Zante.] The Ile of Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called
the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some Hyria. It hath
a Citty of a great length, bordering along the sea side, the chiefe
seate of the Ile, & named Zante, over the doore of whose Prætorium
or Judgement Hall, are inscribed these verses,
Hic locus, odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,
Nequitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, probos.
This place, hates, loves, chastens, conserves, rewards,
Vice, peace, fellony, lawes, vertuous regards.
And on the top of a Hill, above the towne, standeth a large,
and strong Fortresse (not unlike the Castle of Milaine) wherein
the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Iland. This Citty is
subject yearely to fearefull Earthquakes, especially in the moneths
of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, and
themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all. This Ile produceth
good store of Rasini di Corintho, commonly called Currants, Olives,
Pomgranates, Cytrones, Orenges, Lemmons, Grenadiers, and Mellones,
and is in compasse 68. miles, being distant from the fore Promontore
of Morea some 16. miles.
The Ilanders are Greekes, a kind of subtile people, and great
dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it
were not for that great provision of corne, which are dayly transported
from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the Inhabitants in short
time would famish.
It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little
Ile maketh yearely (besides Oyle and Wine) onely of Currants
160000. Chickins, paying yearely over and above for custome
22000. Piasters, every Chicken of Gold being nine shillings English,
and every Piaster being white money sixe shillings. A rent or summe
of mony which these silly Ilanders could never affoord, (they being
not above 60. yeares agoe, but a base beggarly people, and an obscure
place) if it were not here in England of late for some Liquorous
lips, who forsooth can hardly digest Bread, Pasties, Broth; and
(verbi gratia) bag-puddings without these curraunts: And as these
Rascall Greekes becomming proud of late with this levish expence,
contemne justly this sensuall prodigality; I have heard them often
demaund the English in a filthy derision, what they did with such
Leprous stuffe, and if they carried them home to feed their Swine and
Hogges withall: A question indeed worthy of such a female Traffike,
the inference of which I suspend: There is no other Nation save this,
thus addicted to that miserable Ile.
Bidding farewell to Zante, I imbarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso
in Morea, which of old was called Peloponesus: And by the way in the
Gulfe Lepanto (which divideth Etolia and Morea. The chiefest Citty
in Etolia is called Lepanto: from thence West-ward by the sea side,
is Delphos, famous for the Oracle of Apollo) we sayled by the Iles
Echinidi, but by Moderne Writers, Curzolari: where the Christians
obtained the victory against the Turkes, for there did they fight,
after this manner.
[Christian Generalls.] In the yeare 1571. and the sixth of October,
Don John of Austria, Generall for the Spanish Gallies, Marco Antonio
Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto; and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian
Army, convened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all
208. Gallies, sixe Galleasses, and 25. Frigotes.
After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a
valiant courage to incounter with the Turkish Armado, on the Sunday
morning, the seventh of October: who in the end, through the helpe
of Christ, obtained a [The battell of Lepanto.] glorious victory. In
that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Gallies; and
there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty shippes,
Gallies, Galeotes, and other vessels: There was fifteene thousand
Turkes killed and foure thousand taken prisoners, besides 4000. peeces
of Ordonance, and twelve thousand Christians delivered from their
slavish bondage. In all, the Christians loosed but eleven Gallies,
and five thousand slaine. At their returne to Largostolo, after this
victorious battell, the three Generals divided innumerable spoyles,
to their well-deserving Captaines, and worthy Souldiers.
And notwithstanding Don John led that Armado, yet ambition led him, who
in the midst of that famous victory, conceaved a treacherous designe,
to seaze upon the castles of Corfu, under shew of the Venetian colors,
which being discoverd, and he disappointed, died for displeasure in
his returne to Messina in Sicilia; where there his Statue standeth
to this day.
After my arrivall in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Peloponesus, I
left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles, of the Ionean and
Adriaticall seas, and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece,
with a Caravan of Greekes that was bound for Athens.
Peterasso is a large and spacious City, full of Merchandize,
and greatly beautified with all kind of Commercers, Their
chiefe commodities, are raw Silkes, Cloth of gold and silver,
Silken-growgranes, Rich-damas, Velvets of all kinds, with Sattins
and Taffeties, and especially a Girnell for grayne: The Venetians,
Ragusans, and Marseillians have great handling with them: Here I
remember there was an English Factor lying, whom the Subbassa or
Governour of the Towne a Turke, caused privately afterward upon malice
to be poysoned, even when I was wintering at Constantinople, for whose
death the worthy and generous Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover my Patrone
and Protector, was so highly incensed, that he went hither himselfe
to Peterasso, with two Jannizaries, and a warrant sent with him from
the Emperour, who in the midst of the market-place of Peterasso,
caused one of these two Janizaries, strike off the head from the
shoulders of that Sanzack; and put to death divers others also that
had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consul; and the
Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople, was held in singular
reputation even with the Turkes, for prosecuting so powerfully the
course of Justice, and would not shrinke for no respect, I being
domestick with him the selfe same time.
[Morea in Greece.] Peloponnesus now called Morea, a Peninsula, is all
invironed with the sea, save onely at a narrow strait, where it is
tied to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth: which the
Venetians then Lord of it, fortified with five Castles, and a strong
wall from creeke to creeke, which easily were subverted by the Turkish
batteries, the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse,
and want of men: Corinth and its gulfe, lyeth at the East end of this
Istmus, and the gulfe Lepanto on the West, dividing Ætolia and Epyre:
The wall which traversed this strait of Morea, was called Hexamite,
five miles long: Truely it is one of the most famous distroit du terre
en Europe. Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. miles,
and is at this day, the most fertile, and best inhabited Province
of all the Empyre of Greece: The chiefe Rivers here, are Arbona and
Ropheos: Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza, neare
which standeth the Towne of Epidaure, wherein the Temple of Esculapius
was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons. It
was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King, Anno
Mundi 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia, and Apia,
then Peloponesus from Pelops, and now Moreah. It is divided in five
territories or petty Provinces, Laconia, Arcadia, Argolis, Misenia,
and Eliso, the proper territory of Corinth. Of which City it was sayd,
Hor. Let men take heed of Lais, Corinths whoore,
Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre.
It is sayd by Æneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe
that divers Kings went about to digge [The strait of Morea.] through
this Istmus to make it an Iland, namely King Demetrius, Julius Cæsar,
Caius Caligula, and Domitius Nero: Of all whome he doth note that they
not onely failed of their purpose, but that they came to violent and
unnaturall deaths.
But before the aforesayd Caravan at Peterasso admitted me into his
company, he was wonderfull inquisitive, to know for what cause I
travelled alone? & of what Nation I was? To whom I soberly excused, and
discovered my selfe with modest answers. Which pacified his curiosity;
but not his avaritious minde: for under a pretended protection he
had of me, he extorted the most part of my money from my purse,
without any regard of conscience.
In the first, second, and third dayes journeying, we had faire way,
hard lodging, but good cheere, and kind entertainement for our money,
which was the Countrey Laconia. But on the fourth day, when we entred
in the hilly and barren Countrey of Arcadia; where, for a dayes journey
we had no Village, but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers;
and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was
fought betweene Julius Cæsar, and Pompey the great.
[Arcadia.] Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso, on the West with
Misenia, on the North with Achaia inferiour, and on the South with
a part of Laconia and the sea: It was formerly termed Pelasgia, and
lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Jupiter and Calisto,
the people whereof, did long imagine they were more auncient then
the Moone;
This soyle of whom Arcas great patrone was,
In age the Moone excell'd, in wit the Asse.
But because it is a tradition of more antiquity then credit,
I doe rather note it, then affirme it: And as men should dread
the thunder-bolt, when they see the lightning, so ignorance and
idolatry placed amongst us, and round about us, may be a warning to
the professours of the trueth, to take heed of the venome, least by
their Arcadian antiquitie surpassing the Moone, they become novices
to some new intended massacre, for as powder faild them, but alas,
not poison! so now with policy they prevaile in all things: how long
the holy one of Israell knoweth, but certainely, our sinnes are the
causes of their domineering and of our carelesse drouping.
In this Desart way, I beheld many singular Monuments, and ruinous
Castles, whose names I knew not, because I had an ignorant guide:
But this I remember, amongst these rockes my belly was pinched, and
wearied was my body, with the climbing of fastidious mountaines, which
bred no small griefe to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distresse,
the rememberance of these sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Sheepheards
which pregnant Poets have so well penned, did recreate my fatigated
corps with many sugred suppositions. These sterile bounds being past,
we entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea, called aunciently Sparta,
where that sometimes famous Citty of Lacedemon flourished, but now
sacked, and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remaines. Marching
thus, we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand, toward the sea side,
and on the sixt day at night, we pitched our tents in the disinhabited
villages of Argo and Micene, from the which unhappy Helen was ravished.
[The rapt of Helen.] This cursed custome of base prostitution,
is become so frequent, that the greater sort of her mercenary sexe,
following her footsteps, have out-gone her in their loathsom journeies
of Libidinous wayes: she being of such an infinite and voluptuous
crew, the arch mistresse and ring-leader to destruction, did invite
my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty, as the inordinate
patterne of all willing and licentious rapts:
I would thy beauty (fairest of all Dames)
Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move
Thy eyes from Greece, to Ilion cast flames,
And burnt that Trojan, with adulterate love:
He captive like, thy mercy came to prove
And thou divorc'd, was ravish'd with a toy:
He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove
And thou a Paris swore for to enjoy:
Mourne may the ghosts, of sometimes stately Troy.
And curse that day, thou saw the Phirigian coast:
Thy lecherous lust, did Priams pride destroy,
And many thousands, for thy sake were lost.
Was't nature, fortune, fancy, beauty, birth,
That cros'd thee so, to be a crosse on earth.
Some of thy sexe, baptiz'd with thy curst name,
Crown'd with thy fate, are partners in thy shame.
Helens are snakes, which breeds their lovers paine,
The maps of malice, murther and disdaine:
Helens are gulfes, whence streames of blood do flow
Rapine, deceit, treason, and overthrow:
Helens are whoores, whiles in a Virgin Maske,
They sucke from Pluto sterne Proserpines taske:
Curst be thou Hell, for hellish Helens sakes,
Still crost and curst, be they, that trust such snakes.
Here in Argos I had the ground to be a pillow, and the
world-wide-fields to be a chamber, the whirling windy-skies, to
be a roofe to my Winter-blasted lodging, and the humide vapours of
cold Nocturna, to accompany the unwished-for-bed of my repose. What
shall I say then, the solid, and sad man, is not troubled with the
floods and ebbes of Fortune, the ill imployed power of greatnesse,
nor the fluctuary motions of the humerous multitude; or at least, if
he be sensible of his owne, or their irregularities, or confusions,
yet his thoughts are not written in his face, his countenance is not
significant, nor his miseries further seene than in his owne private
suffering; whereas the face and disposition of the feeble one, ever
resembleth his last thoughts, and upon every touch, or taste of that
which is displeasant and followes not the streames of his appetite,
his countenance deformeth it selfe, and like the Moone, is in as many
changes as his fortune, but the noble resolution must follow Æneas
advice in all his adventures;
Per varios casus, per tot discrimina rerum,
Tendimus in latium, &c.
By diverse wayes, and dangers great we mind,
To visit Latium, and Latinus kind.
In all this countrey of Greece I could finde nothing, to answer the
famous relations, given by auncient Authors, of the excellency of
that land, but the name onely; the barbarousnesse of Turkes and Time,
having defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No shew or honour,
no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessours of the
Countrey in a Principality. But rather prisoners shut up in prisons,
or addicted slaves to cruell and tyrannicall Maisters: So deformed is
the state of that once worthy Realme, and so miserable is the burthen
of that afflicted people: which, and the apparance of that permanency,
grieved my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune,
which alwayes plungeth the most renowned Champions, and their memory,
in the profoundest pit of all extremities and oblivion.
[Greeke Champions.] Let the Ghosts of that Theban Epaminondas, that
Mirmidonian Phillip, & these Epirean worthies, Pyrhus and Scanderberg,
be witnesses hereto; but especially, that Macedonian Alexander,
whose fortunes ever followed him, rather than fled him til his last
dissolution; wherein I may say his greatnesse rose; Like to a mighty
and huge Oke, being cled with the exuvials, and Trophees of enemies
fenced with an army of boughes garnished with a coat of barke as
hard as Steele; despising the force and power of the Winds, as being
onely able to dally with the leaves, and not to weaken the roote:
But the Northerne wind, that strong Champion of the airy Region,
secretly lurking in the vault of some hollow cloude, doth first
murmure at this aspiring Oke, and then striketh his Crest with some
greater strength; and lastly, with the deepest breath of his Lungs,
doth blow up the roote: Even so was it with Alexander, who from a
stripling came to be a Cedar, and from the sorrow of no more worlds,
was soone cut off from the world he was into: For destiny is no mans
drudge, and death is every mans conquerour, matching the Scepter, with
the Spade, and the crowned Prince with the praislesse Peasant: And in
a word, there was never any to whom fortune did sooner approach, nor
never any from whom she did more suddenly flee, then from Alexander,
leaving him a cleare mirrour of the worlds inconstancy.
Now as concerning the government of Greece, tearmd by the Turkes,
Rum Ili, that is, the Romane Country: [The Beglerbeg of Greece.] It
is ruled by a Beglerbeg, or Bassa, this word Beglerbeg imports,
Lord of Lords, in regard of the Sanzacks, or Subbassaes under them,
who also are tearmed Lords; which is a barbarous pride in an ambitious
style: This Beglerbeg of Greece, retaineth his residence at Sophia the
Metropole of Bulgaria, formerly Dacia, and is the greatest Commaunder
of all other Bassaes in the Turkish Provinces of Europe.
All other Beglerbegs are changed every third yeare, or continued
according to the Imperiall pleasure, neither may they returne from
their station during this time. But this Bassa of Greece, keepeth
his government for his life-time, and remaineth most at Court: He
reserveth under his commaund, fourty thousand Timariots or Horsemen;
led under the conduct of twenty two Sanzacks, or Judges deputies of
Jurisdictions; to wit, two in Albania, at the Townes Iscodera, and
Ancolina: two in Achaia, at Delvina, and Albassan: three in Thessalia,
at Priasim, Salonica, and Trichola: two in Sparta, at Misietra and
Paleopatra: three in Macedonia, at Carmona, Selistria, and Giastandila:
one in Moldavia, at Acheranma: in Bulgaria, one at Sophia: in Thracia,
one at Viazza: in Epyre, one at Ducagina: in Ætolia, one at Joanina:
in Peleponesus, one at Peterasso: the rest are Usopia, Nycopolis,
Corinth, and Bandera towards the black-sea, and to the Northward of
Danubio, at his kissing the Euxine waves: This much for the Beglerbeg
ship of Greece, and the Provinces thereunto adjoyning.
Departing from Argos, upon the seventh day we arrived at
[Athens.] Athens: Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part
of Peloponnesus, neere to the frontiers of Macedon, or Thessaly by the
Sea side. It was first called Cecropia: Of one Cecrops the first King
thereof, who first founded it, Anno Mundi, 2409. it was after mightily
inlarged by Theseus, and well provided with good lawes by Solon,
and lastly Athens of Minerva: In whose honour for a long time were
celebrate solemne playes, called Panathanaia: Athens is now termed
Salenos, and was once the shrill sounding Trumpet of Mars, yeelding
more valiant Captaines and Commanders then any City in the World,
Rome excepted: It was a custome here, that when any man was growne
too wealthy or potent, he was banished thence for ten yeares: This
exile was intituled Ostracisme, because his name who was abandoned
was written in an Oyster-shell: Great combustions and mutinies have
happened betweene Lacedemon, and Athens; at last it was sacked by
Lysander, and her Virgin body prostituted to the lust of 30. insulting
Tyrants; not long after whose expulsion, it was utterly subdued by
the Macedonians.
And in a word Athens being stayned with intestine blood-sheds, and
grievously discontented with the death of her children; her babes
were brought forth, for the sword to glut upon, the bodies of her
auncients were made as Pavements to walke upon, her matrones became
a prey and prise to every Ravisher, and her Priests and Sacrificers
were slaine before the gates of their Temples.
This City was the Mother & Well-spring of all liberall Arts and
Sciences; and the great Cisterne of Europe, whence flowed so many
Conduit pipes of learning all where, but now altogether decayed: The
circuit of old Athens hath beene according to the fundamentall walles
yet extant about sixe Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor
many dwelling houses therein; being within two hundreth fire houses,
having a Castle which formerly was the Temple of Minerva. They have
abundance of all things, requisite for the sustenance of humane life,
of which I had no small proofe: For these Athenians or Greekes,
exceeding kindly banqueted me foure dayes, and furnish't me with
necessary provision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported me
by sea in a Brigandine freely, and on their owne charges to Serigo,
being 44. miles distant.
After my redounded thankes, they having returned, the contemplation
on their courtesies, brought me in rememberance, how curious the old
Athenians were to heare of forraine newes, & with what great regard
& estimation they honoured travellers, of which as yet, they are no
wayes defective.
[Serigo.] Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico: It was aunciently
called Cytherea, of Cithero the sonne of Phænise: And of Aristotle
Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine Marble that is got
there: It is of circuit threescore miles having but one Castle called
Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captaine: here it is sayd that
Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple,
on the side of a mountaine yet extant.
A little more downeward below this old adored Temple of Venus, are
the relickes of that Palace, wherein Menalaus did dwell, who was
King of Sparta, and Lord of this Ile. The Greekes of the Ile told me
there were wild Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which
was a soveraigne remedy for the Falling sicknesse, and good to make
a woman be quickly delivered of her birth. I made afterward deeper
enquiry for it, to have either seene or bought it, but for my life
I could never attaine to any perfect knowledge thereof.
In the time of my abode, at the Village of Capsalo (being a haven for
small barkes, and situate below the Castle) the Captaine of that same
Fortresse [A Priest slaine in a Bordell.] kild a Seminary Priest,
whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothel-house:
for the which sacrilegious murther, the Governour of the Ile deposed
the Captaine, and banished him, causing a boate to be prepared to send
him to Creta. O! if all the Priests which doe commit incest, adultery,
and fornication (yea, and worse, Il peccato carnale contra natura)
were thus handled and severely rewarded; what a sea of Sodomiticall
irreligious blood would overflow the halfe of Europe, to staine the
spotted colour of that Romane Beast. Truely, and yet more, these
lascivious Friars are the very Epicures, or off-scourings of the
earth; for how oft have I heard them say one to another? Allegre,
allegre, mio caro fratello, chi ben mangia, ben beve, &c. That is,
Be cheerefull, be cheerefull, deare brother, he that eateth well,
drinketh well, he that drinketh well, sleepeth well, he that sleepeth
well, sinneth not, and he that sinneth not, goeth straight through
Purgatory to Paradize. This is all the care of their living, making
their tongues to utter what their hearts do thus prophanely thinke,
Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla voluptas, and as it is well
observed of this monachall and licentious life:
Non male sunt Monachis, grato indita nomina patrum,
Cum numerent natos, hic & ubique suos.
Injustly, no! Monkes be cal'd Fathers, Why?
Their bastards swarme, as thicke, as Starres in Sky.
In the aforesayd boat I also imbarked with the Captaine, and sailed
by the little Isoletta of Serigota: Leaving Capo di Spada on our left
hand, we arrived at Carabusa with extreme fortune, being fiercely
persued by three Turkish Galleots. Betweene Serigo and Carabusa we
had seven score and twelve miles of dangerous and combustious seas.