See Rome discover'd, Italy made playne,
The Roman Library, a golden gaine:
Hunns old Parthenope, with Venice met,
And strong Brundusium, in Ottranto set:
Times rich antiquities displayd abroad
On circling Cume, Avernus lying odde:
And Lorets Chappell, foure times beene transported
On Angells backes, from Nazareth detorted;
Where for discourse, on this false forged Lady,
To tend you with inveiglings, shall be ready:
Thus piece and piece, from soile to soile, I'le goe,
And now begin, the end will deeper growe.
It was a wise saying amongst the Auncients, that thrice happy
and blest was that Kingdome, when old men bore sway and ruled the
State, and young men travelled abroad: The first by long experience
prudently to execute judgement; and the latter by sight and knowledge
of forraine soyles and lawes, growing more judicious; might when
come to age and preferment, the more facily, and dexteriously
exhibit Justice at home. But what shall I say to these moderne and
dissolute times? when by the contrary meanes, travell is sleighted,
government abused, and insinuating Homelings, thrust in high offices,
incapeable of them, being pratling Parrots, and sounding Cymbals:
who convert sound Judgement and Justice, to their owne greedy
respects, and selfe mercinary ends; turning their chiefest felicity
to avaritious ambition and vaine glory, and their sweetest fortunes,
to their belly and their backe. O miserable and effeminate age! when
vertue by most men is despised, and neglected, and sensuall vice every
where exalted: Nay; ruffian Pandors, by hopefull youth and prodigall
gallants, are now clothed, Coatched, and richly rewarded; whilst best
merits and highest deserts, of rarest spirits, are neither looked
to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation, and examples sake,
of their valerous designes, let them thinke upon latter passages,
nor worthy to be thought upon, and they will finde this future caveat
to stand needfull, Hæc olim meminisse juvabit. So likewise now every
Capri-cullion from Cæsar, to the Pascorell, can crowd and chawe from
his warbling waspishnes, this stinging censure of absurd untrueth,
that Travellers and Poets may lye & lye by authority, which they
themselves performe at home without leave.
[Concerning sinistrous censures.] By which traditional concession,
I being absolute in the first, and borne to the Muses, as to the
World, a mungrell to both; may have a lawfull (unlawfull) liberty
assigned. Any marvell? if men in this kind be so injuriously censured,
when the very Gospell it selfe, by perfidious Atheists, Formalists,
Sophisters, Romish-rabines, Nullifidians, and Schismaticall Sectaries,
is quartered, mangled, and rejected; such be the Satanicall opinions
of this hell-borne age: Whose confused conceits, blasphemies,
incredulities, and imaginary devisions, have shamefully stained
the better part of this now best World. Nay, good and godly Kings,
so pricked at, and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant
villaines, as though their royall and just lives were the meere
inordinate paternes of all impiety, and lewdnesse. Sith therefore
the Sacred Scriptures, the gods of the earth, Ecclesiasticke columes;
yea the name and fame of the most righteous alive, be thus diversly
taxed, and vituperiously calumniated; can prevention in me, escape
the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury? No, I have had already
the assault, and newly prepared, patience proofe to receive more,
wrought by the piercinghammer, of nineteene winters, as many Summers
deare bought toyle. Let venome-thundring Crittickes, contumeliously
carpe, infernall firebrand Cerberans barke, and the hell prepared off
scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have aheart can smile, at
their backbiting malice, a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes,
and if present, the weight of understanding truth, to confound their
blind absurdities with reason. As for chamber complementers, whose
vast insides, like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo, are become
threed-bare, having their outsides onely adorned with rich ornaments.
Such serving Cyphers, cypher childish censures,
And shallow scal-patch'd pates, have forebald tonsures.
Yet touch a C. flat in his face he'le start
As though a Dame, had grac'd him with a ------
Whose wringes, winks, whose curious smiles & words,
And scraping feete, lost blandement affoords:
Whence pride and lust, become two servile Mineons
To top his thoughts, with false and fond opinions:
Then happy they, who least frequent a Court,
Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport.
To such bellowing caves winded with the borrowed rags of patch'd-up
Commedies, clouted complements, stolne Phrases, and lip-licked labours,
of lamp-living spirits, to such hollow Tombes, I say a tush for
their kindnesse, and I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour,
or do homage to any of them: And this much for the misconstruous
lack-judgment of emulating cloudes, No Courtiers. And as concerning the
impostrat quagmires of this abortive age, wherein so many Simonaicall
Matchevilians, mercenary parasits, and arch-betraying Sicophants live,
vindicating themselves excessively, upon the advantage of time, I
insufficient I, to dive in such bottomlesse businesses, bequeath them
onely to their owne repining consciences, just tryalls, and ignominious
rewards. To satisfie the World in my behalfe, as touching my travells,
I sincerely protest, that neither ambition, too much curiosity, nor
any reputation I ever sought, from the bubling breath of breathlesse
man (whose [The reason why the Author begun his Travels.] defective
censure, inclineth, as instigation, or partiality, moveth his weake
and variable opinion) did expose me to such long peregrinations and
dangerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands
conjecture the cause, as many the manner; ten thousand thousands the
effect: The condition reserved, I partly forbeare to penetrate in that
undeserved Dalida wrong; and reconciled times pleading desistance,
moderate discretion inserteth silent patience.
The mansuet cup, the gods consuetly drunke,
In me involv'd, straight hony-gald it sunke:
That sweete Ambrosian Nectar, soundly wrapt
In my lock'd closet, suspitious Envy trapt;
And fierce-eyd Jealousie, wingd with wind
Pierc'd staring Argos, turned his hundred blind:
Mycene-fancy fraught, Lusts fond alarmes,
Cros'd eye-stard'd Sparta, rapt with Phrigian charmes:
And teare-rent Sophyre, Synon-like betrayd
What votall oathes, loves sterne fort, ne'er bewrayd
But high-bred drifts, the stormy fates, grim night
And gloomy Hellespont, rob'd Heroes right:
As Illions destiny, forc'd Numidias Queene
To gore a Scepter, a Diadem in teene:
So haplesse I belov'd, O passion strange!
May as amaz'd, admire, that time, this change.
I chang'd a Wolfe, once for a tusked Boare,
And changing Beast for Beast, triumph'd the more:
Strained to assume, in countercambiat breath,
A dying life, revert in living death:
Translate it so, my Metaphore is such,
That Time, nor I, nor Fortune can avouch:
Thus Passion whirling in a cloudy Vale,
I trancing flye, I fall, I hovering scale:
And whilst from Phleg'ran fields, the weirds me call,
I in Elisean plaines, am forc'd to fall;
Wherein some flowry faire enamild ground
I'le place my Tombe, mine Epitaph shall sound,
Of traine-shut sluces, of the Thespian spring,
Where chatring birds, Dodonean trees do sing:
And mild Hydaspes streames do gently flow,
There shall my Lesbian layes, sad Liricks shew.
And where the Borean Roses strow the Hall,
Where flot-glass'd Nymphs, the Circe-fled Greeks enstal;
There shall shrill Triton sound, Armilla's staind,
Whom foule affection preyd, and Lucre gaind;
Load with the filth of dallying Lust and Sin,
Where bloody murther, like a Theefe creept in;
Yet shall the spotles Heart, triumph in trueth,
When worth reapes fame and vertue conquers youth:
And crowne Dorasmos, faith-plight Delphian Bayes,
With more then Lawrell praise, immortall rayes.
Than brass-brou'd Fiends, accurst by Minos doome,
Flee Fairy flight, to Pluto whence you come;
And tast Phlageton, Lethe, court Proserpine,
Sterne Radamanth attends, such stinking vermine;
There Hippolitus, slaine Pirothous stay
Neere t'Acheron, (all faithles lovers way)
To welcome Fiendly, fright Eremiall guests
With flame-flash'd firebrands, sulphur scorching tasts:
Chaynd fury-brangling, in remorseles paine,
Where Belzebub, and Lucifer remaine.
In this umbragious Cell, there lurks a hound
To beare Sarpedons Scepter; helpe to sound
Your Cleopatran clamours; and I thinke
The Ferrier Charon, makes such wretches drinke
Upon the Stigian bankes. Then gnashing Spirits
That howling waile, Hells inexpugnat merits:
Where's all your gentry? for I dare conclude,
That vertue's better borne, then noble blood:
This Epitomizd Epilogue, I send
To them who best can censure't, there's an end.
But by your leave, let me enter into consideration of the intractable
passage of my malecontents past, and these importunate designes
thereupon ensuing: And thus, have I, in the late dayes of my younger
yeeres beene grievously afflicted? Ah; yea; and with more then
desastrous injuries overclowded, O heavy under-prop'd wrongs. But
hath not the like accident befallen to man before? yea; but never
the like condition of murther: Nay, but then preponderate seriously
this consequent? may not the scelerate hands of foure blood-shedding
wolves? facily devoure, and shake a peeces, one silly stragling
lambe? yea, and most certaine, that unawares, the harmelesse innocent;
unexpecting evill, may suddenly bee surprised by the ambushment of
life-betraying foes. All this I acknowledge; but whereupon grew this
thy voluntary wandring, and unconstrayned exyle? I answere, that
being young, and within minority, in that occurrent time, I was not
onely inveigled, but by seducements inforced, even by the greatest
powers, then living in my countrey, [A Dialogue betweene the Author
and Himselfe.] to submit my selfe to arbitrement, satisfaction and
reconciliation. But afterward growing in yeeres, and understanding
better the nature or such unallowable redresses, and the hainousnesse
of the offence; I choosed rather (voti causa) to seclude my selfe from
my soyle, and exclude my relenting sorrowes, to be entertained with
strangers; then to have a quotidian occular inspection, in any obvious
object of disastrous misfortune: or perhaps any vindicable action,
might from an unsetled ranckour be conceived. O! a plaine demonstrate
cause, and good resolution; for true it is, that the flying from evill,
is a flying to grace, and a godly patience is a victorious freedome,
and an undaunted conquerour over all wrongs; Vengeance is mine (saith
the Lord) and I will repay it. To this I answer; mine eyes have seene
the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night-gaping
foes, are trampled under foote, whiles I from strength to strength,
doe safely goe, through the firy triall of calamities. My consolation
arising from his eternall dictum, quos amo castigo, whom I love I
correct: And to say my part in my soules experience,
I never find affliction fall on me
Without desert, for God is true and just:
Nor shall it come, and without profit be,
For God is good, as mercifull I trust.
Then welcome all afflictions sent from God,
He whom he loves, he chastneth with his rod
And as one of the Auncients speaketh well, Adversa corporis,
animæ remedio sunt, ægritudo, carnem vulnerat, sed mentem curat: The
affliction of the body is wholesome phisicke for the soule, it woundeth
the flesh, but cureth the spirit. Certaine it is, that the Lord in
chastising his owne, doth often move the wicked reprobates of his
wrath, to be the instruments of his correcting hand. I could involume,
as large a discourse, upon this heart-grieving project, as upon the
late intollerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governour,
and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine; being in quality, though
not in quantitie alike. But constantly containing my selfe, within
the precinct of patience, referring such eminences to the Creator,
which in a part belongeth not to the creature; I may sigh to this
world, as sorrowfull Æneas to his Dido.
Infandum Regina, jubes renovare dolorem.
Thou wouldst, I should renew my former griefe
To speake of sorrow, helplesse of reliefe:
He melts in woes, who uttereth griefe with words,
Whilst deepest streames, the greatest calme affords.
But now to proceed in my punctuall purpose, the nature of man, by
an inward inclination, is alwaies inquisitive of forraine newes;
yea, and much more affecteth the sight and knowledge of strange,
and unfrequented kingdomes, such is the instinct of his naturall
affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realmes together,
but travell hath done much more; for first to the Actor it giveth the
impression of understanding, experience, patience, and an infinite
treasure, of unexprimable vertues: secondly, it unfoldeth to the world,
the government of States, the authority and disposition of Kings and
Princes; the secrets, manners, customes, and Religions of all Nations
and People. And lastly, bringeth satisfaction to the home-dwelling man,
of these things, he would have seene, and could not attempt. Travell
hath beene in more request amongst the Ancients, then it is now
with us in the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers,
and learned Divines, how they have perigrinated to know the life of
States, and the fashions of farre Countries, would be an endles taske
for me briefly to relate. Many (I confesse) long to see the remotest
Regions of the earth, but dare not undertake the dangers of sight,
the chargeable expences of a tributary journey, the hard indurance
of flint stones, for a soft feather bed, the extremities of thirst,
nor the parching heat of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist
distilling dew to be a humide coverlet to their tender skinne, with
innumerable other insuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking Juno,
would by a meere imagination, runne out the sleeping course of an
endlesse peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped, is by a
deare-bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a never
contenting subject, a bitter pleasant tast, of a sweete-seasoned sowre,
and all in all, what I found was more then ordinary rejoycing, in an
extraordinary sorrow of delights.
But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, I come to the reall
adventure; After two voyages I made to the Orcadian, and Zetlandian
Isles; in the stripling age of mine adolescency, and there after
surveighing all Germany, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low-Countreys from
end to end; I visited Paris, where I remained ten moneths. Divers
contestions have I had, about the equality of London, and Paris, in
quantity and quality: But having a more serious subject in hand than
this [A comparison betweene London and Paris.] paralell, I conclude
thus, the infinite shipping, and commodious navigation of London
(besides their universall commerce)is more of value, then the better
halfe of Paris: compare you the quantity, for there is the quality of
the argument. Paris I confesse is populous, a masse of poore people,
for lacques and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a noctuall
den of theeves, and a confused multitude: Where contrariwise London
is adorned with many grave, prudent and provident Senators, civill,
well taught, and courteous people, and absolutely, the best governed
City on the whole face of the earth, as well by night, as by day,
and nothing inferiour in quantity to it.
From Paris in the yeere of God 1609. March 7. I set forward, being
brought three leagues on my way, with a number of my Countrey gallants,
young Aiton, young Hutonhall, and specially Monsieur Hay of Smithfield,
now Esquire of his Majesties body, with diverse other Gentlemen:
where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies,
and farewell bid on both sides, I bequeathed my proceedings to God,
my body to turmoyling paines, my hands to the burdon, and my feete to
the hard brusing way. And as unwilling to make relation of my passing
through France, the Savoyean, & Ligurian Alpes, sith it is manifested
unto many in this Iland, both by sight and report, I would shunne,
so farre as possible I can, all prolixity of knowne, and therefore
unnecessary discourse. Although I have a large reason, having cros'd
the Alpes at sixe severall parts, onely, in the owne place, I meane to
comment upon Italy in generall. Upon the 40. day after my departure
from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of the which I will memorize, some
rarest things, and so proceed. This City of Rome now extant, is not
that old Rome, which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with
the blood of his brother Rhemus, who disdainefully leaped over the
new wals; and was once the mistresse of the universe, for her triumphs
and antiquities, but is now only the carkas of the other, of which she
retaineth nothing but her ruines, and the cause of them, her sinnes.
[The Antiquity of Rome.] Rome which Romulus first founded, contayned
these two mountaines, Capitolino, and Palatino, with the valley
lying betweene both hills: having three ports; the first was called
Trigonio, because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount
Palatin: The second Pandonio, because it was alwayes open, and for the
commodity of the passage, it was called the free port: The third was
called Carmentale of Carmenta, the mother of Evander who dwelt there:
It was also named scelorata, or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines
put cruelly to death issuing thereat.
Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height;
the Gothes, a base and unknowne people, displaying their banner,
against this glorious and imperiall City, in the end razed, and
subverted their pallaces, equalizing the walles with the ground. After
the which detriment, the overthrow, the late subdued Romans, recovering
their ruinous habitation, were inforced to withdraw the situation
of the Towne, a little more downe-ward, in Campus Martius, close by
the bankes of Tibris; and transported the stones of these ransacked
buildings, to reedifie their new dwelling places;
Hic ubi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silva,
Tantaque res paucis, pascua bobus erat.
Where Rome now stands, was sometimes desart woods
And soyle to feed some few-found bestiall goods.
And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe, the mother and
nurse of worthy Senators, the miracle of Nations, the Epitome of the
world, the Kingdome of Mars, and the seven headed soveraigne of many
Provinces. [Romes seven Hils.] The seven hills whereon she stood,
and now partly somewhere stands: for they are all contained within
the vast bounds of the old walls, which as yet environeth the towne,
are these, Palatino, Capitolina, Viminale, Aventina, Esquiline, Cælio,
and Quiraneno. Which certainely do demonstrate the whoore of Babylon,
sitting on the beast with seaven heads, and cannot be understood but
of Rome, being builded on these seven hils: having a correspondence to
seaven Kings who reigned there; and also acknowledging seven severall
Rulers, Kings, Consuls, Decemviri, Tribunes, Dictators, Emperours,
and now Popes. During the felicity of the Romaines, this Citty was
never taken, but by the Gauls, which being recovered they made a
Law that Priests (being otherwise exempted) should goe to warre, if
ever the Gauls came againe, with whom they fought not for dominion,
but for their owne preservation: But since it became pontificiall,
it hath bene made a prey to all barbarous Nations, and never was
besieged by any that tooke it not.
The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome, is not unlike to
Jordan and Tagus; yet not so big as either of them, being all three
of a troubled and muddy colour: But it is exceeding outragious, and
often Manasseth to drowne the whole Mansions, as greeving to grace the
wals of such a wicked and imperious place: Who having lost her former
preheminent glory, and domination over the world, would now alledge and
ascribe a second prerogative over the soules of men, the heavens, the
hels, the silver-coyned Purgatory, the deposing and imposing of Kings:
The former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword,
the latter by presumption, Avarice, insinuation, and absurd lyes.
[Saint Catherines observation.] I remember of a pretty observation
of Saint Catherine of Siena, who being stricken in devotion, went to
venerate Rome, accompanied with a goodly traine; and having visited
all the Monuments, supposed Holy places, and Religious relickes there,
for the space of five dayes; At last she came to take a view of the
Popes Palace, where having spent a whole day, strictly remarkeing
the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants: She sawe nothing but
abhomination, prophanation, and irreligious living, and worser then
in Rome it selfe: Whereuppon suddenly the next day shee departed
for Siena, being an hundreth Miles distant; pittifully bewayling
her journey, and the miserable livers she sawe in Rome. Protesting
alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death, that the Winde
[Meaning of Sodomy.] never came from the East blowing Westward to
Siena, but she thought the filthinesse of the Popes Palace, and the
beastlinesse of Rome, ever stunke in her nose.
This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extravagant
disgorgements, at that time when Pope Clement 8. was crowned Duke of
Ferrara, anno 1589. and that same night he returned to Rome, Tyber
waxed so proud of his arrivall, that impetuously inunding his bankes
to make him welcome, he over-whelmed the better halfe of the Towne: And
if it had not bene for the infinite charges of the Pope, and desperate
toile of the people, the violent force of his rage swelling courtesie,
had absolutely subverted and carried away the rest of the City. The
like inundation was never seene of Tyber, as after this Coronation,
portending, that as the first Gomorah was destroyed by fire, so this
second Sodome should be sommerssed by water. The beginning of this
River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills joyning with
the Alpes Appenine: whose course is fourescore and sixteene miles;
disburdening it selfe in the sea Mediterren at Ostia twelve miles from
Rome. The mouth and haven whereof have beene long dammed up, to stoppe
the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions, least the City should
be surprised on a sudden. By which slavish Ecclesiasticke feare, Rome
is shamefully defrauded of shipping and forraine trafficke; and if it
were not for the Clergy, which are the two parts of the inhabitants,
(besides the Jewes and Curtezans, which are the greatest implements
of the other third part) it would become the most miserable towne
in Italy.
And notwithstanding that for the space of 12. miles round about
Rome, there are neither Cornes, nor Wines, nor Village, Plantage,
or Cultivage, save onely playne and pastoragious fields; intermingled
at all quarters with auncient watch-Towers being an old policy of the
Romans, to prevent any sudden surprise of their enimies; insomuch that
at my first view of Rome, I imagined the people were all famished,
or in danger of famishing.
But by your leave, being once enterd the City, I found abundance of
all things necessary for life, at so easie and gentle a rate, that
never towne in Europe hitherto could shew me the like. The common wine
that is drunke in Rome, is Vin Romanisco, the better sort Albano,
Muscatello, Sheranino, but as for Lachrime Christi, the teares of
Christ, I drew so hard at that same weeping wine, till I found my purse
begun to weepe also; and if time had not prevented the sweetnes of
such teares, I had beene left for all the last miserable mourner. As
for the place [The Pilgrimes dinner at the Popes table.] where the
Pilgrimes find one dinner, called the Popes table, it is thus: there
is a certaine low roome at St. Peters Pallace, and without the gate,
where every day at our nine of the clocke, there meete 21. pilgrimes;
14. from the Trinity, one having a bullet for all, and seven from St
Peters Penitentialls: where being received, the seven Jesuit Pilgrims
get the upper place, and sit alone, yet all of them alike served,
each of them having foure dishes of meat, besides bread & abundance of
wine. The dinner done, their fragments are wrapt up in cleane paper,
which they carry with them, and so departing, they, or like company
come no more there. They are dayly served with a very venerable Prelat,
and a few other serviceable Preists, but for the Popes presence with
them, there is no such matter. That liberty being spoyld by a drunken
Dutch-man about 60. yeeres agoe, who in presence of the Pope gave
up againe his good cheare and strong wines, with a freer good will
then perhaps they were allowed him, whereat the Pope grewe angry,
notwithstanding the drunken fellowe cryed through his belching throate,
Thankes Holy Father, Deere Holy Father, God blesse your Holinesse.
Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also
recite some decayed monuments thereof, which I have seene: The
speciall object of Antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to
this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium sanctorum,
builded in a rotundo, and open at the top with a large round,
like to the quire of the holy grave. And a pretty way from this,
are the remainants of that Auncient Amphitheatre beautified with
great Columnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height, and a mile in
compasse; the reason why it was first devised, the ghosts of the
slaughtered [Romes Antiquities.] Sabines may testifie. To be briefe,
I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the
Pallace of cruell Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander,
and his horse Bucephalus. The greene hill like unto mount Cavallo,
that was made of the Potters sheards at one time, which brought
the tributary gold to this imperiall seate: the seven Piramides,
some whereof during her former glory, were transported from Ægypt:
The high and small statues of Peter and Paul, the Castell St. Angelo,
which Adrian first founded, standing now in a moderate circumferent
height, with incircling battlements, and their doubtfull transported
Reliques from Jerusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked,
some whereof were frivolous, some ambiguous and some famous.
Neere to mount Palatin, and the decayed temple of Romulus, I saw
the Temple of Venus, converted now to the Church of Sancta Maria,
Liberatrice Dalla piene de Inferno, The deliverer from infernall
paynes, as Venus was the Consolatrix of amorous paynes.
Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy spectacle, which was
the Library of the auncient Romans, being licentiated to enter with
two Gentlemen, Sir William Carre, Mr. James Aughmuty my Countrey men,
where when I was come, I beheld a world of old Bookes, the first
whereof, was an infinite number of Greeke Bibles subscribed with the
hands of these holy Fathers, who (as they say) translated them out
of the Hebrew tongue.
I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the
soule, health, life, nature and qualities of men, with the Medicaments
of Galen, for the diseases and [Famous Authors.] infirmities of man:
The familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Æneidot of Virgil, the Saphicke
Verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the workes of Ovid, Pliny, Plutarke,
Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Seneca, Plato, Homer, Tirentius,
Cato, Hippocrates, Josepus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculus, Eusebius,
S. Austine, S. Ambrose, S. Cyprian, S. Gregory, and likewise the
workes of other excellent Phylosophers, Divines and Poets: all wrote
with their owne hands, and sealed with their names, and manuall
subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first auncient writing
which was upon leaves of trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on
ashes, barkes of trees, with strange figures, and unknowne Letters,
that was brought from Ægypt: for the Ægyptians first devised the use
thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligatory writings of Emperors,
Kings and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be
Registred by the next beholder.
Still left untold, something there must be seene
For them, who trace our feete, with Argos eyne:
Yet let them stay, and take this verball note,
They who would better write, must larger quote.
Bidding adew to my company, and this Library, I longed to view
the gorgeous Mosaicall worke of S. Peters Church: The matter was
no sooner conceived, but I went to the doore, yet afraid to enter,
because I was not accustomed with the carriage, and ceremonies of such
a Sanctum Sanctorum: but at the last, abandoning all scrupulosities,
I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entred within the doore,
I espied the portrayed image of S. Peter [The brasen Image of Saint
Peter.] erected of pure Brasse, and sitting on a brasen Chaire. The
fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they go straight
to this Idoll, and saluting with many crosses his senslesse body,
kisse his feete, and every one of his severall toes: insomuch that
those his comfortlesse feete are growne firy red, while his body,
save his breasts, remaineth brazen blew: and yet forsooth some of
their learned Rabines will not have this superstition, but an humble
commemoration of their adored Saints, or the like, for procuring
favour of intercession, whilst the erected Idoll (interum) receiveth
all their superfluous abhominations of diurnall worship. Next, they
lay their heads under the sole of his right foote, and arising, rub
their Beades on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse
masse of mettall, more then though it were a living creature.
O wonderfull and strange spectacle? that these onely titular
Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans,
to worship and reverence the workemanship of mens hands. Woe and
shame be unto you all blind Hereticall Papists; Why should you make
to your selves Idols and Images of gold, silver, brasse, yron, stone,
earth and tree; And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with
a superstitious reason, alledging, you do it onely in remembrance,
where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance:
May not the prohibition of the 2. Commandement of Gods Law, which
absolutely you abrogate, dividing the last Commandement in two;
confound the errour of this Idolatry, ingrafted in your hardned hearts.
What vertue can be in a lumpe of brasse? or what comfort in the
devices of handy-crafts-men? Alas, nothing but eternall sorrow &
condemnation. This was one of the lamentable errors I saw in the
Roman Sea, amongst many other thousands: When the foolish Listranes
or Licaonians would have sacrificed Buls to the honour of Paul and
Barnabas, they rent their cloaths, and ranne in among the people,
crying, and saying; O men, why doe you those things, we are even men
subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, That the
Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of
man; yet when they are dead, the [Superstition of Papists.] Romanists
will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone or tree. What
unworthy-fained traditions and superstitious Idolatry? What strange new
devising trickes they use, to plant idle monasteriall Loyterers? How
many manner of wayes these belly-minded slaves Epicure-like leade
their lives? And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into,
practising even unnatural vices, I meane of their wrongfuly called
Religious Bishops, Priests, Friers, Curates, and all the hypocriticall
crew, of these pervers'd Jebusites, no heart can expresse; nor the
most eloquent tongue can sufficiently unfold. Whose luxurious lives
are vulgarly promulgat in this Hispanicall proverbe:
Unnas tienen de gatto, y el habito de beato,
El cruz en los Pechos, ye el diabolo en los hechos.
They have a Cats clawes, and a blest Saints weed,
The crosse on their breasts, the divels in their deed.
But for feare of Excommunication from that Anti-christian Curtezan. I
dare not persevere longer herein: Although I can; yea, and so truely
bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any
Romane Novice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all
the Papists in Britaine had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I
have had, I am certainly perswaded, with tears & sighes, they would
heavily bemone the terrible fal of that Babylonian whoore, which in
a prophane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely
sweare to thee, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian usually doth
in his humours) by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father,
Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacriledge, incest, or villany a Papist
committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the
Simonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non
captat ovem sine lana.)
[Pardons for pennies.] And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations,
adjoyned Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands,
lesse, or more yeeres. The period of Time, after eight and twenty
dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of
these blood-sucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine owne
Country-men, the chiefest of whom was Robert Mophet a Jesuit borne in
St. Andrewes, David Chambers, and of our Colledge there, one Gordon,
and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough: And to
speake trueth, if it had not beene for Robert Meggat, borne neere
to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old [My escape
from Rome.] Earle of Tirone, who hid me secretly for three dayes in
the top of his Lords Pallace, when all the streets and ports of Rome
were layd for me, who conveighing me away at the fourth mid-night,
and leapt the walles of Rome with me, I had doubtlesse dyed as hot
a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second
Travells: And for better record Patricke Baxstter, now dwelling in
Dundy, and then followed the Earle of Tyron can justifie the same,
my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge. Yet I
may justly affirme it in these parts a man can finde no worser enimie
then his nationall supposed friend, Religion being the cause of it,
and at home none more false nor deceitfull then a bosome friend.
Mens mindes, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits, They
hurling come and goe, like fish at baits.
And the Italian saith in his Proverbe; God keepe me from the hurt of
my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies. From
thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which,
I revolve in this verse;