I have often heard it said that two horses were easier to drive than

one. I always marked down the person who made such a remark as not being

thoroughly in earnest, or not knowing the subject he was discussing. I

do not know how much harder it is to drive two horses than one. That is

I cannot express the difference mathematically. But there is a good

deal. Any reasonably strong man can prevent one horse from getting away

with him. Few can prevent a thoroughly frightened team if they once get

off. The thing is not to let them get off. Not to permit this requires

that he shall control two animals, for when one of a pair gets

frightened he quickly communicates his fear to his mate. When the panic

is serious then serious trouble is likely to ensue. With a runaway horse

or a runaway pair the circumstances of the moment must control. If the

road is clear and the driver can keep the horse straight all may go

well; but horses nearly always choose to get frightened when the

conditions are nearly the opposite of this. Then the circumstances of

the moment must guide the driver. If he keeps his head cool and can

prevent collisions, he will probably come out safely. But the best of

them have been run away with. This comes sooner or later to every man

who uses horses constantly. Eternal vigilance will prevent most all of

the accidents that might happen; but human nature is fallible and horses

are very uncertain. Carelessness in the driver, however, is responsible

for ninety and nine of every hundred driving accidents that happen. The

flying automobile, in recent years, has been responsible for a great

many. I must say, however, that I never met but once with anything but

the greatest consideration from automobilists that I have encountered

when driving. The discourteous one proved to be a dentist, and the

mission of dentists in the world is, I believe, to give people pain.

Every driver should know when his horses are properly harnessed and

hitched to the vehicle. And he should never fail to look over the whole

“turn out” in every detail to see that all is secure and each part in

proper adjustment to every other part. The horse show authorities have

formulated rules as to what is proper for one vehicle and another. The

experts are veritable martinets and attach as much importance to a strap

here and a buckle there as the unlucky King of Prussia, who did battle

with Napoleon, attached to one row or two rows of buttons on a soldier’s

coat. Intelligence, however, can find its way without much regard to

these fine points. But it is never safe to trust to grooms and stablemen

even though they may really know more about it than the driver himself.

The driver is the master, and he should make the inspection even though

it be only a formal one—he should assume a virtue though he has it not.

Inspections of the work of stablemen do not go amiss unless the unlucky

master should take to finding mares’ nests. Two or three such

discoveries will hurt discipline amazingly.

There is now a good deal of four-in-hand driving in America. It is only

now pleasure driving, and quite different from that of the coaching days

of our grandfathers’ time. This is an art which a man may be able to

pick up himself. But the safest and quickest course is to take

instruction from a professional or from a friend, if so amiable a friend

can be found. It is, of course, more difficult to drive four than two

horses. But this can be learned by any cool-headed man who has the good

fortune to be a horseman to start out with. Not having that gift he

would do well to let it alone. Some of the most accomplished

four-in-hand drivers about New York are women, which shows that it is

not main strength that is effective, but skill and practice. Practice

and intelligence combined will overcome most all of the difficulties. By

practice I do not mean an hour a day for a couple of weeks, but six

hours a day for two or three years; and by intelligence I mean the

instructed knowledge which enables a driver to know the reason for each

thing that is done.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

TRAINING VS. BREAKING

As has been frequently remarked before in this volume, the horse is not

a very intelligent animal. Nor has he any of that natural affection and

fidelity that is so remarkable in the dog. This being the case—and it is

so no matter what the sentimentalists who know nothing about the subject

may say—the training of a young horse is a thing requiring much patient

intelligence on the part of the person who undertakes the job. But this

patience is rewarded if the young horse have qualities that are worthy

of development. I fancy that seven horses out of ten in the United

States are broken before their training begins. This means, in my

opinion, that a large percentage of a horse’s value is deliberately

thrown away in the very beginning of his career of usefulness. A horse

_broken_ is a horse half _spoiled_. The “Broncho Buster” is the typical

horse breaker. Those who have not been on the frontier have seen the

Broncho Buster’s methods in the Wild West circuses. A young horse or a

wild horse is saddled and bridled. A Rough Rider mounts and stays on the

back of the young thing until the animal is conquered and subdued

through fear and fatigue. This brutal method of treating young horses

used to be universal in America. That so much of it should still be done

is not complimentary to the intelligence and kindliness of American

horse owners. It is about on a par with the treatment that weak-minded

persons received a century or so ago. They were beaten and maltreated

and kept in order by cruelty and harshness—ruled, indeed, by the fear of

those who should have treated them with the most patient kindness. When

the spirit is taken out of a horse by his early handling, we can never

hope to develop his small intelligence very far, or to guide his

instincts in the right direction. While a horse’s intelligence is of a

low order, he has a fine memory. His fear being aroused in the

beginning, he remains afraid, and is controlled by his fear alone—his

fear of being hurt. This always seemed to me a cowardly way of acting,

for the horse is one of the most timid of all animals. To beat a horse

is about as noble as to beat a child.

The breeders of good horses are pretty generally giving up the rough

methods of breaking. Their horses are too valuable to be trifled with in

this way. There are some horses that are naturally vicious. With them

the gentle method will not accomplish the desired result. They have to

be conquered in another way. When this is the case, I much prefer the

Rarey method. Rarey so fashioned a harness that he could cast a horse

the moment that a horse disobeyed. After a horse has been thrown a few

times he usually comes to the conclusion that obedience is the safer

plan. There is nothing cruel in the Rarey method and with bad horses it

is much to be preferred to the brutal breaking style. The horse is not

hurt, he is merely surprised at the result of his own waywardness.

The Arabs handle their horses from the time they are foaled, so that

they are from the beginning accustomed to men, women and children and

all the other things common to a human habitation. That is the way all

young horses should be treated. To be sure this involves a good deal of

work and many think that it does not pay, so they turn their colts out

and let them get two or three years old before anything is done with

them. This is as wise as to let a boy run wild and uninstructed until a

year or so before he is bidden to go forth and earn his own living. When

a colt is accustomed to persons and not afraid of being touched or led,

only patience and intelligence is required to complete his education

without any fight or contest whatever.

Before the colt is a year old it should be accustomed to the cavesson

while running in a paddock, and when a year old it should be practised

on the lunge, a rein of fifteen feet long attached to the nose-piece of

the cavesson. This is a head-collar with a metal nose-band, upon the

front and each side of which are rings. To the front ring the leather

lunge is fastened and from the side rings straps will be buckled to a

surcingle or girth at such lengths as will prevent the colt from

extending the face much beyond the perpendicular. The colt should then

be led about, stopping and starting, time and time again until it has

some comprehension of the word of command. The feet should be lifted so

that the colt realizes that the trainer has no intention to do him harm.

After good terms have been established the colt should be practised on

the lunge, the trainer standing in the center of a circle, and letting

the colt walk first and then trot slowly around the circumference of the

circle—first to the right, then to the left. These short lessons should

be given every day. Soon a colt enjoys the exercise, evidently thinking

it play. If it be a driving horse that is being trained, harness should

soon be added so that the colt will not be afraid of it, and also a

light bridle with a snaffle-bit or, better still, a leather bit. If it

be a saddle-horse that is being trained, the lunging and bitting should

continue until the colt is passed two years old before he is saddled or

mounted.

Suppose we take the saddle-horse first. Two-year-old colts are often

trained by light weight riders. At three their serious education is

continued, and at four they are given their accomplishments. The colt,

after being practised on the lunge, should be taught somewhat the

meaning and the purpose of the bit before he is mounted. Patience and

gentleness to the end that fear may be banished will enable a trainer to

get a colt into such an acquiescent condition that when the rider

finally gets into the saddle the colt accepts the innovation with

nothing exceeding a mild surprise. The saddle should be used in the

lunge exercise several times before a man mounts. Some recommend that a

weight, such as a bag of meal, be tied into the saddle towards the end

of the lunge exercises so that the colt will get used to weight on the

back. This is not a bad idea. Before the rider mounts the first time,

the stirrups should be pulled down and pressure be put upon them so that

the colt may feel the weight of the saddle. When the foot of the rider

is first put into the stirrup he should raise himself very gently, the

left hand being in the mane of the colt. After bearing all his weight a

few seconds in the stirrup he should return to the ground without taking

his seat in the saddle. This he should repeat several times, the number

of times depending upon how the colt acts. At any rate, this

half-mounting should be continued until the colt is no longer disturbed

by it. Then the rider may take his seat in the saddle. This should be

done as quietly as possible. He should sit in the saddle a few minutes

and then dismount. The mounting and dismounting should continue until

the colt is accustomed to it. This will not be long if everything be

done easily, slowly and gently. An awkward man has no business in trying

to train a saddle-horse. A flop into the saddle would, naturally,

frighten a colt and defeat the purpose in view. When the colt has become

used to a rider in the saddle the rider should close his legs against

the sides of the colt, draw a slight tension on the reins, and induce

the colt to go forward in a walk. There should be nothing but the walk

in the first few lessons. In them, however, the colt should be taught

the meaning of the bit so that he could be guided in whatever direction

the rider wishes. In nine times out of ten a colt that has been treated

as I have described will be quiet and do what is asked of him without

any excitement. If the colt does get excited then the whole work will

have to be done over and over, with more patience and more gentleness,

until the colt acquiesces. It is most important that all these first

steps be taken quite slowly, otherwise the colt will get hot and

excited, and then may come a fight which is the thing most to be

avoided. I can see a rough rider turning up a scornful nose at these

admonitions. Very well! Be scornful as much as you choose, I am not

writing about the training of a broncho, but of a horse fit for a

gentleman to ride.

After the mounted colt goes quietly in the walk, then he should be

trotted gently, and if the rider is a light weight, cantered, too. But

as a two-year-old work should be very light—play, indeed. At three years

old the colt may be confirmed in his gaits, but not worked a great deal

harder than at two. At four years old the colt is ready for the

finishing touches and the beginning of his life work. But he is not

nearly up to the hard work of which he should be capable between six and

sixteen.

Trainers of colts for driving hitch them up when they are yearlings, and

drive them a little to a low cart built with long shafts and running out

behind. Before being hitched up, however, he is harnessed and driven

around with a pair of long reins, being guided by the driver to one way

and another, and being stopped and started at the word of command. When

the colt is harnessed to the cart a strong kicking strap should be used.

A few lessons a week driven in such a cart will work wonders so that

when the colt is two years old there will be no difficulty in driving

him in an ordinary road cart. In driving a colt the same precautions

should be used as in training a colt for the saddle—it should not be

frightened or treated roughly.

It is probably more important to accustom a young driving horse than a

riding horse to the sights and sounds that are likely to be encountered

on the road. Here, too, patience and gentle firmness are amply rewarded.

Whenever I see a driver thrashing a young horse to compel him to go by

an automobile or a trolley car or some other strange and fearsome thing,

I have a desire to get the whip and apply it to the driver. Such

treatment of a horse is not only cruel, but it is utterly foolish. The

horse is frightened at what he sees. He is afraid that in some way it

will hurt him. And why should he not be? These devil wagons are

frightful enough in appearance to scare a less timid animal than a

horse. There is only one course to pursue. Teach the horse that the

automobile or other frightful machine will not hurt him. Do this, not

with the whip, not with shouts and execrations, but by leading the horse

up to the offending machine until he realizes that it is not some

monster of destruction. Patience and sense will prevent almost any horse

from acquiring bad and dangerous habits of shying and bolting. Curing a

horse of established habits is quite another and a different thing. It

is like reforming the dissolute or regenerating the depraved. The horse,

however, is not blameworthy. These bad habits are always the result of

foolishness on the part of some man. The sensible course is not to

permit a horse to acquire bad habits. This is a thousand times easier

than curing them. Patient firmness and gentle insistence will prevent

bad habits in all save those that are fools. A fool horse is too

worthless to bother about.

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

CONFORMATION AND ACTION

In the horse shows an exhibitor, except in the Thoroughbred classes, is

not required to furnish the pedigrees of his horses. The judges,

therefore, decide entirely on conformation and action. These two things

are what make or unmake the excellence of the individual animal. A

well-formed horse is apt to have good action. Sometimes this is not so,

just as sometimes a woman may have beauty of form and feature and lack

animation, vivacity, and that infinite variety and sympathy which

recently we have accustomed ourselves to call temperament. Good

conformation in a horse, however, is the advantage which conduces to

good action. When action and conformation supplement, adjust, and

confirm each the other, we have what may be called an approach to the

ideal horse. I have never seen the ideal horse; but pretty close to it.

I have owned a few that were very satisfactory, but never one that was

entirely so. Still I have hope. I suspect that when one realizes his

ideal in anything, life loses some of its zest. The pursuit, the

seeking, the longing for the unattained—these are the things that make

life so interesting, so absorbing. If I had the horse I have long had in

my mind I should be glad, no doubt. But I might be sorry, too. There is

one saving fact, however. We change our ideals as we get more experience

and further knowledge. I have changed my opinions often about horses,

since I first became interested in them. While writing the last chapter

of this book I confess that I have changed some of my opinions during

the two or three months that I have been engaged in the composition. I

have learned some things that I did not know before; I have parted with

some prejudices which I ought never to have entertained. So it was

inevitable that I should modify my views. If, therefore, I should ever

obtain my ideal in horse-flesh I might awaken a few weeks later to find

that I really wanted something just a little different. I seek the

ideal, therefore, without fear of achieving it and meanwhile I have lots

of fun with horses that are not more than half what they ought to be.

The oldest writer on horses was Xenophon. He says: “The neck should not

be thrown out from the chest like a boar’s, but like a cock’s, should

rise straight up to the poll, and be slim at the bend, while the head,

though bony, should have but a small jaw. The neck would then protect

the rider, and the eye see what lies before the feet.”

Xenophon is the oldest writer on the subject. Mr. Price Collier is the

latest and in many regards the best, because he not only knows how to

write, but knows what he is writing about. Here is what he says about

the proportions of a well-formed horse:

“One cannot go to buy a horse with a tape-measure, but certain

proportions are well enough to keep in mind. The length of the head of a

well-proportioned horse is almost equal to the distance; (1) from the

top of the withers to the point of the shoulder; (2) from the lowest

point of the back to the abdomen; (3) from the point of the stifle to

the point of the hock; (4) from the point of the hock to the lower level

of the hoof; (5) from the shoulder blades to the point of the haunch.

Two and a half times the length of the head gives: (1) the height of the

withers and the height of the croup above the ground, and (2) very

nearly the length from the point of the shoulder to the extreme of the

buttock.”

The tape-measure test is all very well, but if a man does not have an

eye for a horse he will never be able to select a good one by

mathematics. And an eye for a horse is a singular endowment. I have

known men of proved intellectuality quite incapable of learning about

horses. Also I have known men who, in the ordinary affairs of life were

very fools but who knew good horses by a kind of instinct. The man with

an eye for a horse takes the whole animal in at a glance; his minute

examination, in nine cases out of ten only confirms his instant

judgment. When I am buying a horse I do not need to hesitate very long.

I have inspected and bought as many as twenty in a day, giving not more

than fifteen or twenty minutes to each horse. Yet these purchases in the

main have been satisfactory. No one of them, however, was my ideal.

In a general way, all horses should have certain points. Therefore

general rules apply in all the types, from the Pony to the Percheron.

Every horse should have (1) a bony head and small ears; (2) medium-sized

eyes, neither protruding nor sunken, and without an excess of white in

the pupil; (3) the forehead should be broad; (4) the face should be

straight and neither concave nor convex; (5) the neck should be small

and lean, its length regulated by the size of the head and the weight of

the shoulders, the head being so joined to the neck that the neck seems

to control the head instead of the reverse; (6) the shoulders should be

oblique or sloping; (7) the back should be short; (8) the ribs should be

well rounded, definitely separated and full of length; (9) the legs

should be flat and lean, with knees wide from side to side and flat in

front, the upper bone of the leg being long and muscular in proportion

to the lower or the common bone; (10) the feet should be moderately

large; (11) the pasterns should be long rather than short, but, better

still, neither long nor short; (12) the hair should be short and fine.

I might have added another point, making thirteen in all, but for luck I

stop at the dozen, feeling sure that if any of my readers gets a horse

with the good points noted he will have a treasure beyond the lot of

most men and maybe far beyond his deserts.

A well-formed horse ought to have good action. This does not always

follow. But good conformation without good action is a kind of

disappointing fraud. The best action is that which is natural to the

horse. We expect this in families and in types. But training can modify

the action of a horse, indeed, change it entirely as when a pacer is

converted into a trotter. With pacers, however, I am not concerned as I

presume that this book is written for gentlemen.

There can be no good action which is not straight. In the walk, the trot

and the gallop a horse must move his feet and legs in parallel lines.

The horse that does that naturally can be taught the other things that

may not come to him by nature—high stepping, for instance. When a horse

moves always without paddling or any other lateral motion, he is a very

fit subject for cultivation. He can be taught to go daintily and

gracefully as our grandmothers walked through the _minuet de la couer_.

Throwing the feet far out in front or lunging, as it is called, is a

very ugly trick and can be remedied in the shoeing, I am told. I believe

this to be true, but I have never tried it. A horse with this

inclination always seemed to me badly bred—Hambletonian, for

instance—and I have not recently bothered with such. Paddling also can

often be corrected by shoeing. General rules cannot be laid down as to

these things. Each horse has his individuality. He must be so studied.

When an owner brings general knowledge and acute intelligence to this

study he can determine in a little while what is best to be done in each

case. In the great majority of cases the best plan is to sell the horse

that seems unpromising, but as no horse is ever entirely satisfactory

some of them must be retained and educated by training, a training

dominated by gentleness, courage, firmness and patience—but most of all

patience.

THE END

INDEX

ABDUL AZEEZ, SULTAN OF TURKEY, 31

ABD-EL-KADER, 18, 23

ABDALLAH, 116, 128

ABRAHAM, 18, 19

ABDALLAH, XV, 175

ABDUL HAMID II, 146

ACTION AND CONFORMATION, 272

AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT, 111

ALASKER TURK, 25

ALEXANDER, ROBERT A., 54, 55

ALIX, 132

ALEXANDER’S ABDALLAH, 171

AMAZONIA, 116

AMERICAN STUD BOOK, 41

ANDREW JACKSON, 86, 104, 136

ANCIENT SCULPTURES, 6, 7

ANDERSON, EDWARD L., 6, 235, 250

ANDALUSIAN (JACK), 198

ARMENIA, 6, 20

ARAB AND BARB, vi, vii, 14, 15

ARISTIDES, 70

ARION, 134

ASIA, 6

AUTOMOBILES AND ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS, iv

AXTELL, 134

BARBARY, 13, 14

BARRS, 183, 184

BASSETT, HARRY, 66, 67

BATTELL, COL. JOSEPH, 80, 85, 107

BERBER BARBS, 13

BELLFOUNDER, (IMPORTED), 117, 119

BELLE MEAD FARM, 70

BEND OR, 70

BENJAMIN FRANKLIN, 10

BELMONT, AUGUST, 55

BEACON COURSE (HOBOKEN), 105

BETSEY HARRISON, 152, 153

BEN BRUSH, 74

BLACK HAWK, 88, 90, 106

BLUE GRASS, 148, 221

BLUNT, WILFRID, 33

BLACK DOUGLAS, 112, 139

BONHEUR, ROSA, 179

BOSTON BLUE, 131

BOSTON, 56

BONNER, ROBERT, 133

BONNIE SCOTLAND, 69

BOX-STALLS, 224

BOGUS (LOOMIS’S) SON OF LAME BOGUS BY ELLIS’S BOGUS, SON OF IMP. TOM

BOGUS, 107

BOURBON BELLE, 71

BRITISH HORSE, 8

BREEDING ON FARMS, iv

BRONCHO BUSTERS, 238, 263

BRAMBLE, 69

BRUTUS MORGAN, 85

BREAKING AND TRAINING, 262

BRUCE, MR., 142

BREEDING TO A TYPE, v

BUFFALO BILL, 238

BULRUSH MORGAN, 86, 92, 93

BULLE ROCK, 40

BULL CALF, 131

BUYING A HORSE, 210

BYERLY TURK, 25, 40, 80

CARMON, 170, 174, 175

CANADA, 9

CASSIUS M. CLAY, 139

CAVESSON, 265

CALASH, 10

CATALAN, JACK, 190, 198

CARLYLE, W. L., 176

CABELL’S LEXINGTON, 166

CHANGING THE LEAD, 249

CHARLES KENT MARE, 117, 119, 121

CIVIL WAR, viii, 208, 236

CIRCUS TRICKS, 236

CLAY-KISMET, 145, 177

CLAY-ARABIAN, v, 13

CLEVELAND BAY, 8, 182

CLYDESDALE, v, 178, 182

CLAY, HENRY, 190

CONTINUITY IN BREEDING, vii

CORTEZ, 8

COLUMBUS, 8

CONEY ISLAND JOCKEY CLUB, 70

COLONIAL ERA IN NEW ENGLAND, 10

COLLIER, MR. PRICE, 256, 274

COMMISSIONS TO COACHMEN AND GROOMS, 218

CONFORMATION AND ACTION, 272

CONTINENTAL RIDERS, 237

CONESTOGA, 120

COLEMAN’S EUREKA, 166

CRUSADERS, 24

CRESCEUS, 132, 175

CUTTING A DASH, 258

CUB MARE, 41

DARLEY ARABIAN, 16, 25, 27, 36, 40, 80, 101, 168

DANIEL LAMBERT, 90

DAVY CROCKETT, 166

DAUMAS, GENERAL, 18, 22

DEXTER, 94, 132, 139, 140

DEALERS, 216, 217

DE LANCEY, COL., 41, 80

DENMARK, v, 13, 27, 69, 129, 130, 152, 153, 156, 157, 158, 159, 160,

161, 163, 166

DE LESSEPS, COUNT FERDINAND, 21, 22

DIOMED, 12, 42, 43, 44

DOMINO, 72, 73

DOBBINS, 73

DOBLE, BUDD, 94

DORSEY, L. L., 92

DOMESTICATION OF HORSE, 5

DRACO, 93

DRIVING, 251

DUKE OF MAGENTA, 70

DUKE OF MONTROSE, 70

DUTCHMAN, 104, 105, 132, 133

ECLIPSE (AMERICAN), 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 100

ECLIPSE, 29

EDWIN FORREST, 132

EGYPT, 6

ELDERLY RIDERS, 247

ELECTIONEER, 139

EMPEROR OF NORFOLK, 71

ENGLISH RIDERS, 237, 238, 239

EOCENE HORSE, 3

EOLUS, 70

EQUITATION, 234

ETHAN ALLAN, 89, 93, 94, 95, 111, 175

EVOLUTION OF HORSE, 4

FALKLAND ISLAND HORSES, 5

FALLS AND TUMBLES, 248

FARM HORSES, iv

FAIRFAX, JOHN, 189

FASHION, 56

FAIR RACHEL, 41

FALSETTO, 70

FIRENZI, 71

FEARNAUGHT, 93

FEEDING AND WATERING, 231, 232

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