_High Street, Prospect Avenue, the College, the Convent, and the
Threlkelds_
Up the hill from Bridge (M) Street on the east side of High Street
(Wisconsin Avenue), a door or two above where the Farmers and Mechanics
Branch of Riggs Bank now stands, was a fine old house where the Potomac
Fire Insurance Company had its first home. But long before that, it was
the home of Mrs. Caperton, whose son, Hugh Caperton, became a well-known
lawyer here.
At the present 1239 Wisconsin Avenue, where Becker's Paint Store has
been for a good many years, was the house which Robert Peter gave to his
eldest daughter, Elizabeth, when, at the age of sixteen, she married her
cousin, James Dunlop, in 1787. This old letter gives some news about the
wedding.
It is addressed to: John Davidson, Esq., Merchant, Annapolis:
George Town August 17th, 1787
Dear Sir:
Without any ceremony or preamble I have undertaken to enclose you
the measure for a pair of Stays, not that I suppose that you are to
make them, but that you may undertake to engage Mrs. Davidson's
interest to undertake the direction of them.
They are for a daughter of mine who is tollerably nice, and she will
not consent to trust the business entirely to the Staymaker, nor,
it seems, to any other Lady in Annapolis but Mrs. Davidson, so that
you see what a deal of trouble I have brought her into, by having
often observed in my daughter's hearing how that Mrs. Davidson
seemed to me to be in all things about her Family, in short the Girl
has taken it into her head that she is old enough to become a wife,
and does not only beg of Mrs. Davidson to direct as to her Stays,
but wishes she would take the trouble of procuring some Paterns of
silks fit and suitable for what they call a Wedding Gown, with the
prices paid or annexed to the Patterns, and when the choice is made
I suppose the next favor will be of Mrs. Davidson to direct as to
the making of it. Mrs. Davidson must take the cause of all this
trouble to herself, for if she did not merit the charge she would
not have had the trouble. I am just now interrupted by receiving a
further commission, to wit for a crepe cushion made by the best and
most fashionable Barber in Annapolis, and a lock of the color wanted
is enclosed. I want everything good and fashionable, but you know we
old Fellows like everything as cheap as they can be got to have them
good. I leave everything to yours and Mrs. Davidson's good
management, but, at the same time, it would appear as if there was
some expedition. The samples and prices of the silk I will be
obliged by your sending by post, the Stays and Cushion perhaps you
may be able to forward by Miss Patty Lingan who will be coming down
in nine or ten days, as I am informed. I am just now tortured with
black guard consignment business and therefore I conclude by
remaining Your Very Humble Servant,
ROBERT PETER.
They were married in October and had eight children, all but one of whom
lived to maturity.
In 1792, five years after their marriage, James Dunlop bought an estate
of 700 acres known as "Hayes," seven miles out in Montgomery County;
this later became their permanent residence. It had been built in 1762
by the Reverend Alexander Williamson, rector of Rock Creek Church (now
St. Paul's), until he resigned in 1776, being a Tory. In history, he is
called the "Sporting Parson" because of his love for fox-hunting and
cock-fighting.
The back lawn of this house was the bowling green and the old balls are
still in the attic there. Also, there is still there an old rose bush
bearing small white roses, which was planted by Elizabeth Peter Dunlop.
This was my summer home when I was a girl and is now in possession of my
eldest brother.
Just above number 1239 is the crook in High Street (Wisconsin Avenue)
and, until a few years ago, I never knew why it was that way: actually,
it follows the line of the grant of the Rock of Dumbarton, which was
surveyed that way. The reason the streets on the west side of High
Street (Wisconsin Avenue) don't match those on the east side is because
they were laid out by different owners.
Just about here is the Aged Woman's Home, standing high above the
street. It was founded in 1868 with a gift of $15,000 from Mr. W. W.
Corcoran. It houses fourteen women. In all these years there have been
only three Presidents of the Board: Mrs. Beverley Kennon, Miss Emily
Nourse, and the present one, Mrs. Louis Freeman. The back part of the
house is what is left of the home of John Lutz, who had a good deal of
land around his house when he built it nearly two hundred years ago.
In days gone by, the Aged Woman's Home was partly supported by
contributions collected by women who were members of the Benevolent
Society, who went from door to door with a book in which amounts to be
given were subscribed.
On the southeast corner of High Street (Wisconsin Avenue) and Gay (N)
Street, just above here has been conducted, since 1861, the grocery
business of H. W. Fisher and Son, first was the grandfather, known as
Henry, whom I remember, with a long grey beard; then his son of the same
name, known as Wellen, and now his son, Henry. I am told by an old
resident that the first telephone in Georgetown was in the Fisher's
store, as it is known, and that when people wanted to phone, they went
there and used it.
I was fed from Fisher's all my young life, and I imagine my father was
one of their best customers, as he had eleven children and multitudes of
relatives in Maryland and Virginia, who came to stay whenever they
wished to visit Washington City. So you can rather imagine the
consternation of the elder Mr. Fisher when, one hot afternoon, as he was
clearing out his crate of tomatoes just before closing time and, as was
the custom in those long ago days, picked up a large, over-ripe one and
threw it out, as he supposed into the gutter, that, instead, it landed
on the stiff "boiled shirt" bosom of Mr. George T. Dunlop! I never knew
of this occurrence until I was told of it many years after by Mr. Wellen
Fisher, who said his father always said it never made any difference to
Mr. Dunlop.
On the other side of High Street (Wisconsin Avenue), coming up from
Bridge (M) Street, on the corner was the hardware store of Edward M.
Linthicum; later Henry Addison had a dry goods store there.
A little farther up, in the nineties, was Joe Schladt's, the saloon of
the Town. We all knew about it, but, of course, no lady ever entered it.
There were, however, three or four very well-known gentlemen who entered
it very frequently, and had a good deal of difficulty reaching their
homes every evening.
Then we come to 1254 Wisconsin Avenue, Stohlman's, which, ever since
1820, has dispensed a very different form of refreshment--ice cream.
First it was Arnold's Bakery, then, in 1845, the business was sold to
Mr. and Mrs. May; then, in 1865, to Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Stohlman, she
being the niece of Mrs. May; then to J. William Stohlman, father of the
present owner by the same name, and they are still serving the "elite of
Georgetown" not only with ice cream, but other dainties. Back in my
girlhood it was "quite the thing" to go down to Stohlman's and have a
saucer of ice cream in the back parlor at one of the little
marble-topped tables.
Right next door is Forrest Hall. Here, at one corner of the property,
was one of the original stones marking the northern border of Georgetown
when it was surveyed, No. 46. On this lot stood the Union Bank and then,
in 1855, Bladen Forrest, (not a descendant of Colonel Uriah Forrest),
built this large and very good-looking building.
The enlisted men of the battalion of the Second U. S. Infantry were
quartered in Forrest Hall for a time at the beginning of the Civil War.
Later it was used as a hospital for Union soldiers. After that, the
Georgetown Assemblies were held there for several years, and various
other affairs. I remember a fete called a "Chocolatere" when I was a
little girl, and going to it with my mother, and seeing three pretty
girls dressed in Japanese costume singing "Three Little Girls from
School Are We." I think that was not so very long after the _Mikado_
made its debut.
On the northwest corner of High Street (Wisconsin Avenue) and Prospect
Street, the building which has an interesting cornice and roof is where
W. W. Corcoran started his career, in the dry goods business.
Just beyond was a market; I think it was called a "Farmers' and
Butchers' Market," an offshoot of the old Market on Bridge (M) Street. I
remember going there when I was a little girl with my mother, and her
buying vegetables from a Dutch woman, Mrs. Hight. I have always
remembered her rosy, smiling face, and her stall of gay, vari-colored
vegetables. She had a farm out on the Rockville Pike, and I think of it
sometimes when I pass.
High Street (Wisconsin Avenue) nowadays has become the center of antique
shops, there are many of them, also now there are dress shops and
accessories of all kinds.
Then we go along Prospect Street, which was named for the tract of land
belonging to Benjamin Stoddert, called "Pretty Prospect."
On the corners of Potomac Street are two quaint, little houses. On the
southeast corner of Frederick (34th) and Prospect Streets stands an
apartment house, which, before a false front was added a few years ago
when it was converted, was the dignified brick house where Benjamin
Stoddert lived and entertained in most hospitable style.
[Illustration: BENJAMIN STODDERT'S HOUSE]
He named his home "Halcyon House," and what a suitable and lovely name
for one in his business, and one who had settled here after his service
in the Revolution. For the halcyon was a fabled bird, whose nest floated
upon the sea. It had the power of charming winds and waves, hence,
"halcyon days" are days of tranquillity and peace. He had married
Rebecca Loundes, the daughter of Christopher Loundes, of Bladensburg.
They had several children. Mrs. Stoddert writes thusly of them on a
day when they must have been particularly trying:
I wonder that you can be so anxious to see my children, for a parcel
of rude, disagreeable brats as ever was born, except the two
youngest.
She writes another letter on the 15th of December, 1799, in which she is
evidently condoling with someone, and says she "hopes Nancy was not
disappointed at having a fine girl;" she is sure of "Richard's feelings
on the subject, for the men always are, if they would but own it, after
having one daughter, all but sons are unwelcome." She goes on to say,
"But they may comfort themselves, but I will be security that the next
one will be a son."
What marvelous necromancy this lady must have possessed--in her own
opinion--worth a gold mine if it could really be true!
From his southern dormer windows, tradition says, Major Stoddert used to
watch with his telescope for the coming of some of those ships that he
and Colonel Forrest and Colonel Murdock sent out across the ocean.
On May 17, 1798, he was appointed Secretary of the Navy, being the first
to hold that position, and so remained until March 1, 1807.
On May 29, 1800, he wrote thusly from Philadelphia (where he was engaged
by his cabinet duties), to his near neighbor, John Templeman, on the
corner just one block west of him, the old house which stood for so
many, many years unoccupied:
Dear Sir:
The Pres. will be at Washington by the time you receive this, or a
day or two after. He proposes to stay but a little while. I wish he
would remain longer. This and other good things will depend on the
manner of employing his time. I request, therefore, that setting
Bashfulness at defiance, you will urge the Pres. to go to the balls,
to ride with you in your coach, and to get Mr. Scott at least to go
with you. Let the Pres. be pleased with the attention and with the
country.
I am resp. yrs.,
BEN STODDERT.
Barring accidents, I expect to be in Geo. Town the 14th of June.
After Benjamin Stoddert's death, this house was given by William Whann
as a wedding present to his only child, Anna Maria, on her marriage to
Benjamin Mackall, the son of Leonard Mackall. Their son, General William
W. Mackall, was a graduate of West Point in the class with General
Grant. He served with distinction in the Mexican War and later in the
Confederate Army. Shortly after the close of the Civil War, General
Grant gave a reception at the White House to the Aztec Society, composed
of officers who served in the War with Mexico and their descendants.
General Mackall went to it clad in his grey uniform and was most
cordially received by his old comrades.
Still later than the Mackalls, this house was occupied by Mr. Martineau,
Minister from the Netherlands, and then by the Pairo family.
To return to Mr. Templeman's house which he built about 1788. He was
president of the Bank of Columbia; also an owner of ships, and, as a
side issue, had:
For Sale--At John Templeman's Store.
Whisky, Firkin Butter, Linseed Oil, and Flour.
George Town June 20, 1800.
Those ships which carried tobacco across 3,000 miles of ocean didn't
fill their holds with bricks as ballast on the way back, as we used to
be told; there were too many better things needed here. And there was
plenty of clay right here to burn brick. Even in the early days of
Jamestown there were brick factories of which there are records and
"English Brick" meant made by specifications of English brick.
The Templeman family lived here for three generations until the Civil
War. Then it belonged to Franklin Steele, whose three daughters were
Mrs. Morris, Mrs. Arthur Addison, and Mrs. Edward Macaulay.
"Old Mrs. Morris," as she was called, lived there many years alone and
was always complaining to my father that the new building of the Capital
Traction Company was undermining her house and was knocking it down. It
still stands firm. It was finally "done over" a few years ago, and
eventually bought by James E. Forrestal, when he became Secretary of the
Navy, and was still his home when he resigned as our first Secretary of
Defense, and then ended his life tragically May 12, 1949, by leaping
from a window of the Naval Hospital at Bethesda.
The house was leased for two or three years to the Government and called
"Prospect House." It was used by the State Department as a "guest
house," where such honored persons as the Shah of Iran, Monsieur Vincent
Auriol, President of France, and several Presidents of Latin American
countries, and other officials, stayed. The State Department often used
it for dinner parties. Its garden which used to be terraced down to the
river, and quaint little gazebo are still lovely. It has recently been
purchased by Representative Thurmond Chatham of North Carolina.
[Illustration: HOME OF DR. CHARLES WORTHINGTON]
Just across from Mr. Templeman's house on the northeast corner is one of
the loveliest houses left in Georgetown. It stood for many years
unchanged and unoccupied until a few years ago, when it was bought by
Sir Wilmott Lewis, the representative in Washington for a long time of
the _London Times_.
It was built by John Thomson Mason, (not General John Mason, whose home
was on Bridge Street). It was acquired in 1810 by Dr. Charles
Worthington, who came to George Town in 1783 from Sumner Hill in Anne
Arundel County. He previously owned a house on the southwest corner of
Bridge (M) and Market (33rd) Streets, and, later on, bought this house.
He called his home "Quality Hill." His family lived there for many years
until about 1856, when they moved up to the Heights and bought a house
on Road Street. The family of James Kearney lived there then, until
about twenty years ago. Dr. Worthington was one of the original members
of Saint John's Church and first president of the District of Columbia
Medical Society.
Dr. Charles Worthington was an austere man, very dignified and serious.
To his latest day, he dressed in the old style; his hair in queue, knee
breeches, long stockings, and buckles on his shoes. He drove a
coach-and-four when going to his country place out on the Seventh Street
Road near Brightwood. He was a man of great ability and zeal. He lived
to be 76 years old, having practiced medicine 55 years. His son,
Nicholas, followed in his profession.
Another block westward on this street stood Prospect Cottage, a charming
little home where Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth lived in the sixties and
wrote her many novels--one for every year of her life. This house was
for a time the home of the League of American Pen Women.
Just about a block northward stands Holy Trinity Catholic Church,
referred to sometimes in old newspapers as The Roman Church. The present
large edifice, facing on Lingan (36th) Street, was first built in 1849,
but the original church is the small building at the back of it, high up
from First (N) Street. The earliest marriage recorded there is April 6,
1795; the first baptism, May 14, 1795, signed by Reverend Francis Neale,
S. J., who was the first pastor. But the lot had been purchased some
years before by Bishop Carroll.
The building was erected by Alexander Doyle, putting in his own means in
addition to contributions from others. This church was virtually owned
by the college and was used for the college commencements until 1832.
Georgetown College, now a university, stands like a fortress at the
western boundary of the town. Its lovely chimes float out over the town
at every quarter of the hour. Only one of the original buildings in old,
red brick still stands behind the grey stone modern halls. The north
building was put up first, and by 1797, students began to lodge in it.
There were 57 boarders at that time. The college was opened in 1789--its
founder being John Carroll, a member of the famous Maryland family, who
was consecrated Bishop at Lulworth Castle in England, but returned
immediately to this country. There is a fine seated statue of him just
in front of the main building. In 1806 it passed under the control of
the Jesuits, and in 1815, it was raised to the rank of a university. The
observatory of Georgetown, founded by Reverend James Curley in 1842, is
one of the oldest in this country.
In 1830 Jonathan Elliot wrote of the college:
On entering the College, every pupil shall pay ten dollars. He shall
bring a mattress, a pillow, two pillow cases, two pairs of sheets,
four blankets and a counterpane, or pay $6.00 per annum for the use
of bed and bedding. He must also bring with him one suit of clothes,
as a uniform--which is in winter a blue cloth coat and pantaloons
with a black velvet waistcoat; in summer white pantaloons with a
black silk waistcoat are used. He must likewise bring with him two
suits for daily wear, for which no particular color is prescribed;
six shirts, six pairs of stockings, six pocket handkerchiefs, three
pairs of shoes, a hat and a cloak or great coat, also a silver
spoon. These articles if not brought by the student will be
furnished by the College and included in the first bill.
The pension for board, washing, mending and mending materials, use
of books (philosophical and mathematical excepted), pens, ink, and
writing paper, slates and pencil, is $150. Medical aid and medicine,
unless parents choose to run the risk of a doctor's bill in case of
sickness, $3.00 per annum. All charges must be paid half-yearly in
advance.
With regard to pocket money it is desired that all students should
be placed on an equality and that it should not exceed 12-1/2 cents
per week; and whatever is allowed must be deposited in the hands of
the directors of the College. Half-boarders are received on the
usual terms, viz. $5 entrance and $65 for board per annum.
Day scholars $5 for fuel and servants, as no charge is made for
tuition. The College has been established 45 years and not a single
death has taken place among the students.
This was in spite of the fact that the young men, winter and summer,
washed at the pump!
Early in 1861 several volunteer regiments, including the 69th New York
and the 79th Pennsylvania Regiments, arrived in Georgetown. The 69th
was mustered into service in the grounds of Georgetown College, where it
was afterwards quartered. The 79th Pennsylvania Regiment was clad in
their distinctive Scottish kilts, plaids, and striped stockings, and had
a band of pipers at their head.
The Georgetown College students showed where their sympathies were by an
ostentatious display of a badge fastened upon the lapel of the
coat--tri-color for the Union, and blue for disunion.
Just west of the college used to be a pond which was a very popular
resort for skaters in the winter season.
Not far away is another well-known Catholic institution, for the
education of the other sex--the oldest Visitation Convent in the
country--having on its list of alumnae many well-known names.
When Father Neale came from Philadelphia to George Town in 1798 to
become president of the college, he found living on Fayette (35th)
Street, near by, three ladies belonging to the Order of Poor Clares.
This order was founded in Assisi long ago by Sister Clare, a devoted
friend of Saint Francis of Assisi, and is similar to the Franciscans.
The three ladies were members of the French nobility who had been driven
from their convent in France during the Revolution in 1793 and, coming
to this country, had set up a little convent not far from the college.
They attempted to keep a school as a means of support, but had a very
difficult time. Once, it is told, they were reduced to such poverty that
they had to sell a parrot, which they had as a pet, in order to save
themselves from starvation. These women, barefooted, according to the
rule of their order, came of noble blood and had been born to luxury.
One of them was Mary de la Marche, who advertised in the newspaper
salves and eyewashes for sale.
In 1799 Father Neale sent back to Philadelphia for three devoted
religious friends from Ireland, who wished to found a convent. They were
Alice Tabor, Maria McDermott, and Louise Sharpe. For a few months they
boarded with the Poor Clares, but a little later Father Neale bought a
house and lot nearby and installed them in it. They became known as The
Pious Ladies. On May 18, 1801, Mary de la Marche advertised the two
houses of the Poor Clares for sale, but apparently they did not sell
them at that time, for, in 1804, after the death of the Abbess, Madame
de la Rochefoucault, who succeeded her, sold the convent to Bishop
Neale, and the remaining ladies returned to France.
The Pious Ladies slowly increased in numbers, keeping their school and
struggling against poverty, all the time endeavoring to become
established as members of the Visitation Order. At last their hope and
ambition came to pass, and, in 1816, they were regularly established as
the Georgetown Visitation Convent.
Across the street from the Convent grounds, a lovely big meadow until it
was partly taken over in World War II for a housing project, are the
Volta Bureau for the Deaf and two interesting houses.
Mrs. Gilbert Grosvenor, the daughter of Alexander Graham Bell, has very
kindly given me this wonderful letter about them:
My grandfather, Alexander Melville Bell, lived on the corner of 35th
Street and Volta Place in the house since occupied by Mr. Walter
Lippman, (but not at present).
Following my father's removal to Washington in about 1879, his
father and mother changed their residence from Brantford, Ontario,
to Georgetown. With them were their three nieces, the Misses
Symonds, who were my father's double cousins. At the back of the
35th Street property was an old stable which my father converted
into a laboratory, and he carried on experiments there almost until
the time of his death. He would come out nearly every afternoon to
his laboratory and visit with his parents before returning home in
the evening.
It was also our custom to have dinner with my grandfather and
grandmother on Sundays. They were very jolly times and my
grandfather always had a jar of candy for the grandchildren and
games which we could all play. He was very popular with all the
young people, being jolly, and looked a little like the usual idea
of Santa Claus, with his gray beard and hair.
Shortly after my grandfather came to live in Georgetown, his
brother, Mr. David Charles Bell and Mrs. Bell, followed him from
Brantford to Washington and bought the house next door. With them at
that time, keeping house for them, was Miss Aileen Bell. She was
noted in the family as having turned down Bernard Shaw's offer of
marriage in her young days, Bernard Shaw having been a great friend
of her brother, Mr. Chichester Bell, and having visited with the
family when they lived in Dublin, Ireland. Mr. David Bell had in his
young days moved to Dublin to carry on the career of his father,
Alexander Bell, as a teacher of elocution. His wife had a school for
young ladies. Another son of the family was Mr. Charles J. Bell,
later president of the American Security and Trust Company, who
later married my mother's sister, Roberta Hubbard, and came to
reside in Washington.
Mr. David Charles Bell was a very handsome man, but very irascible,
and the young people were quite afraid of him. He and his brother
had numerous vehement arguments as to whether Shakespeare or Bacon
wrote Shakespeare's plays. My grandmother was eleven or twelve years
older than her husband, so my grandfather did most of the marketing,
and I understand it used to be quite a sight on Saturday morning to
see the two old gentlemen, Mr. David and Mr. Melville Bell, going to
market with baskets over their arms. Notwithstanding all their
arguments, they were very devoted to each other.
Miss Aileen Bell was very musical and was one of the founders of the
Friday Morning Music Club and other musical clubs. She was the
organist and choir leader in Christ Church, Georgetown. She was
always very punctilious in her attendance and I remember her talking
about her church.
Mr. and Mrs. Charles Bell and their family also used to come out on
Sundays to see their parents, but they usually came to supper. The
family as a whole were very devoted. Mr. Chichester Bell, you may
recall, was the co-inventor with my father and Mr. Tainter of the
phonograph. The wax records that are used today are their invention
and their company, the Columbia Phonograph Company, operated under
their patents.
After my grandfather's death, the house came into my father's
possession, and he gave it to the American Association to Promote
the Teaching of Speech to the Deaf, now called the Volta Speech
Association. It was used for a time as the home of the
Superintendent. My father still continued to use his laboratory.
Some years later, when the Association needed money, it was sold and
the proceeds used to carry on the work of the Association. My father
was very much interested in the work of the Volta Bureau and one
winter, when my mother was away, he lived at the Volta Bureau,
compiling some of his scientific data. He had a way when he became
absorbed in work of forgetting to eat or sleep, and the person that
brought his dinner tray would often find his luncheon tray
untouched.
[Illustration: JOHN THRELKELD]
Just north of the convent grounds is the site of the estate of Berleith,
which had been built by Henry Threlkeld. He had, in 1751, married Mrs.
Mary Hopkins, a daughter of Dr. Gustavus Brown of Maryland, and widow of
Reverend Matthew Hopkins. Henry Threlkeld died in 1781, his widow in
1801. Their one child, John, was married in 1787 to Elizabeth Ridgely,
of Maryland. Two years before his marriage he visited England, one
object of his trip being to secure a legacy which he converted into gold
and brought back with him. He landed in England at Dover, which he
described as being "about the size of George Town," the voyage having
taken nearly two months--from October 6th to December 3rd. In his
journal he wrote of having gone to the House of Commons to hear "Mr.
Pitt open the budgett, Mr. Fox followed, and then Mr. Sheridan replied
to Mr. Pitt."
Of John Threlkeld, an old paper states that "he was well and very widely
known as a fine scholar and a man of great benevolence." He was mayor of
George Town in 1793 and a personal friend of Thomas Jefferson. He was
remembered as a handsome figure on horseback, even in his late years,
and his love of following the hounds is a family tradition. The comments
made by him in this connection during his stay in England are
interesting. After describing the journey by coach past fine estates
with "one-half the fields as green as spring with grass," he added, "and
but one horse have I seen in the course of thirty miles at pasture, and
here I must take notice of their boasting in America of their hunters
leaping the five-bar gates." He goes on to explain how the measurements
were taken, and concludes, "but still their horses vastly surpass ours."
John and Elizabeth Threlkeld had four children, but the only son died in
infancy, so the name disappeared, and the family is represented only by
the descendants of their daughter, Jane, who married John Cox.
[Illustration: COLONEL JOHN COX]