CHAPTER XIV

THE McMILLAN PARK COMMISSION--THE PLAN OF 1901

In 1900 a great celebration commemorating the one-hundredth anniversary

of the removal of the seat of government to the District of Columbia

was held in Washington. The keynote of the celebration was the

improvement of the District of Columbia in a manner and to the extent

commensurate with the dignity and the resources of the American Nation.

The population was 218,196.

[Illustration: OLD BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD STATION]

While the centennial exercises were in progress the American Institute

of Architects, in session in Washington, discussed the subject of the

development of parks and the placing of public buildings; the tentative

ideas of a number of the leading architects, sculptors, and landscape

architects of the country were heard; and as a result the Institute

appointed a committee on legislation. Consultations between that

committee and the Senate Committee on the District of Columbia were

followed by the order of the Senate for the preparation and submission

of a general plan for the development of the entire park system of the

District of Columbia.

[Illustration: MODEL OF WASHINGTON SHOWING CONDITIONS IN 1901]

[Illustration: MODEL OF THE FUTURE WASHINGTON, PLAN OF 1901]

[Illustration: WASHINGTON, FROM ARLINGTON, PLAN OF 1901]

Thus, Hon. James McMillan, of Michigan, chairman of the Senate

Committee on the District of Columbia, submitted the following

resolution, which was adopted by the United States Senate on March 8,

1901:

_Resolved_, That the Committee on the District of Columbia be, and

it is hereby, directed to consider the subject and report to the

Senate plans for the development and improvement of the entire park

system of the District of Columbia. For the purpose of preparing such

plans the committee may sit during the recess of Congress and may

secure the services of such experts as may be necessary for a proper

consideration of the subject. The expenses of such investigation

shall be paid from the contingent fund of the Senate.

[Illustration: OLD PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD STATION]

On March 19, 1901, the subcommittee of the District Committee having

the matter in charge met the representatives of the American Institute

of Architects and agreed to their proposition that Daniel H. Burnham,

architect, and Frederick Law Olmsted, jr., landscape architect, be

selected as experts, with power to add to their number. These gentlemen

accepted, and subsequently invited Charles F. McKim, architect, and

Augustus Saint-Gaudens, sculptor, to act with them in the preparation

of plans. The services of men who had won the very highest places in

their several professions had thus been secured.

[Illustration: THE MALL, SHOWING RAILROAD TRACKS CROSSING IT]

[Illustration: THE MALL INUNDATED]

The nature and scope of the work having been outlined to the

commission, they entered upon their task, but not without hesitation

and misgivings. The problem was both difficult and complex. Much had

to be done; much, also, had to be undone. Also the aid and advice of

the commission was sought immediately in relation to buildings and

memorials under consideration, and thus the importance and usefulness

of the commission were enhanced.

The commission, in order to make a closer study of the practice of

landscape architecture as applied to parks and public buildings, made

a brief trip to Europe, visiting Rome, Venice, Vienna, Budapest,

Paris, London, and their suburbs. Attention was directed principally

to ascertaining what arrangement of park areas best adapts them to the

uses of the people and what are the elements that give pleasure from

generation to generation, and even from century to century. The many

and striking results of this study were given in the Park Commission

Report, including plans and illustrations. The Committee on the

District of Columbia submitted the report to the Senate on January 15,

1902. It was adopted and ordered to be printed as Senate Report No.

166, Fifty-seventh Congress, first session.

McMILLAN PARK COMMISSION

The members of the McMillan Park Commission were:

DANIEL H. BURNHAM, architect, of Chicago. He became head of the firm

of Burnham & Root, one of the first great architectural firms of the

country, and later of D. H. Burnham & Co. Designer of many buildings,

among them the Railway Exchange and Marshall Field’s retail store in

Chicago, and the Wanamaker stores in New York and Philadelphia; in

1893 he became chief architect and director of works of the World’s

Columbian Exposition. Mr. Burnham was instrumental in securing the

adoption of a scheme of construction which placed that exhibition in

the very front rank of international exhibitions, and by the display of

rare executive ability he brought about and maintained the effective

cooperation of the architects and artists, who then and there gave to

American art both a new direction and a tremendous impetus. In 1901 he

became chairman of the McMillan Park Commission for beautifying the

National Capital; in 1908 he built the Union Station at Washington; in

1910 he became a member of the National Commission of Fine Arts and

its first chairman. He also laid out plans for Chicago, Cleveland, and

Manila. He died in 1912 while on a trip abroad.

CHARLES F. MCKIM, architect, of New York City, studied architecture

at Harvard University and at the École des Beaux Arts in Paris. He

organized the firm of McKim, Mead & White, architects, of New York

City, who for half a century have led the architectural profession in

the design of classical buildings, such as the Boston Public Library,

Harvard University buildings, the Columbia University Library, the

Morgan Library, the Rhode Island Capitol, the Pennsylvania Railroad

Station in New York City, the restoration of the White House, and are

the architects of the Arlington Memorial Bridge. Mr. McKim, as a member

of the McMillan Park Commission, designed the Mall plan, and also made

a sketch for the Lincoln Memorial. Mr. McKim was president of the

American Institute of Architects in 1902 and 1903, and was instrumental

in the purchase of the Octagon House as the headquarters of the

American Institute of Architects. In 1903 he was awarded the royal gold

medal given by King Edward VII for the promotion of architecture. Mr.

McKim was a champion of good architecture and keenly interested in the

development of the National Capital. He deplored the appearance of the

State, War, and Navy Building, and said he would find pleasure during

leisure hours in raking off the columns--a work that is contemplated

in the remodeling of the building as the State Department Building. He

died in 1909.

[Illustration]

AUGUSTUS SAINT-GAUDENS, sculptor, born in Dublin, Ireland, on March 1,

1848, came to the United States in infancy and learned the trade of

a cameo cutter. He studied drawing at the Cooper Institute in 1861,

and in 1865 and 1866 was a student of the National Academy of Design.

From 1867 to 1870 he studied at the École des Beaux Arts in Paris.

Mr. Saint-Gaudens was the greatest American sculptor, and, indeed, one

of the greatest of all time. His great works of art are numerous and

inspiring. Among them are The Puritan; the statue of Abraham Lincoln,

Chicago; the Farragut, the Peter Cooper, and the Sherman Victory

monuments in New York; the Shaw Memorial in Boston; the Amor Caritas

at the Luxembourg Gallery in Paris; and the celebrated Adams Memorial

in Rock Creek Cemetery, Washington. He also designed a $20 gold piece.

As a member of the McMillan Park Commission he wrote that part of the

report pertaining to Arlington National Cemetery and advised in the

matter of location of the Grant Memorial at the head of the Mall. He

died in 1907.

FREDERICK LAW OLMSTED, landscape architect, from the time that he

became a member of the McMillan Park Commission of 1901 has given

uninterrupted service in the development of the National Capital. He

was one of the original members of the National Commission of Fine

Arts, appointed in 1910, and served as landscape architect member until

1918. From 1924 he served as landscape architect member of the National

Capital Park and Planning Commission. Mr. Olmsted was president of the

American Society of Landscape Architects and from its organization in

1907 a member of the National Conference on City Planning.

His father laid out Central Park, New York City, about 1858 (2,300 men

were employed on it in September of that year), and in 1872 he prepared

the landscape plan for the United States Capitol Grounds as they have

existed since then. Mr. Olmsted and his firm have in more recent years

laid out the Metropolitan Park System of Boston, the Vanderbilt Estate

in North Carolina, the Baltimore Park System, and Redondo Beach, Los

Angeles County, Calif. The smaller park areas which Mr. Olmsted has

designed are too numerous to mention.

CHARLES MOORE has devoted fully 50 years to the development of the

National Capital, and is a former chairman of the National Commission

of Fine Arts. Mr. Moore was for many years clerk to the Senate

Committee on the District of Columbia, rendering most valuable service

to the committee, of which Senator McMillan was chairman, as well as to

the National Capital. The reports on the elimination of grade crossings

in the District of Columbia and on the charitable institutions of the

District of Columbia, as well as the Park Commission Report of 1901,

are memorable documents of that period which were largely prepared by

him. His influence has always been strong with Members of Congress

in favor of the development of the District of Columbia upon a noble

scale. His appointment as one of the original members of the National

Commission of Fine Arts was a fitting recognition not only of past

services but of his preeminent qualifications to pass upon subjects

relating to the beautification of the National Capital. He was chairman

from 1915 to 1937. Mr. Moore also helped prepare the plan of Chicago.

He is the author of a number of books, among them being Under Three

Flags, the Life of Daniel H. Burnham, the Life of Charles F. McKim, the

Family Life of George Washington, Washington Past and Present; and has

contributed also innumerable articles to magazines in the course of the

years.

PLANS OF THE McMILLAN PARK COMMISSION

The plans prepared by the McMillan Park Commission and submitted, with

its report, to the Senate, constituted the first and most notable

proposal for grouping of public buildings ever put forward in the

United States. The outlying sections of the District of Columbia

were studied in relation to a system of parks, both large and small

areas being indicated; the most convenient and the most picturesque

connections between the various parks were mapped; the individual

treatment which each important park should undergo was recommended; an

extension of the park system to Great Falls and to Mount Vernon was

discussed. Primarily, however, the development of the Mall received

detailed and elaborate treatment, and the location of new public

buildings, whether legislative, executive, or municipal in character,

was arranged according to a rational system of grouping; and those

memorials which mark distinct epochs in our national history were

brought into harmonious relation with the general scheme of development.

As a result of this study, the desirability of making every

considerable undertaking within the District of Columbia a part of

a general plan was made evident, so that each undertaking should

contribute its part to enhancing the value of the whole; and no

undertaking would be allowed to invade, to mutilate, or to mar the

symmetry, simplicity, and dignity of the one great composition designed

to comprehend the entire area.

In working out the plans the park commission found it necessary to have

prepared two models, one showing the existing disturbed conditions in

the section from the Library of Congress westward to the Potomac, and

the other showing the arrangement proposed. These models, constructed

with the utmost attention to the details of topography by George C.

Curtis, were accurate maps of the section they so graphically depicted,

and served as guides in carrying the plans to completion. To present

in graphic fashion particular features of the plans, the accurate

architectural drawings were rendered in color by leading artists, and

by means of these pictures a clear and distinct idea of the completed

work was obtained.

One of the greatest obstacles to a restoration of the Mall as provided

for in the L’Enfant plan was the fact that since 1872 the Mall had been

occupied by railroad tracks, the board of aldermen and the board of

common council having on March 20, 1871, granted the Mall site to the

Baltimore Potomac Railroad Co., later the Pennsylvania Railroad Co.,

which action was confirmed by act of Congress May 21, 1872. The Mall

was then no better than a common pasture. The railroad had taken the

place of the canal, which it paralleled, and held the right to use the

property by a title good in law and in equity; also by virtue of an

act of Congress adopted in 1890 the railroad space had been enlarged,

in consideration of the surrender of street trackage and the proposed

elevation of the tracks within the city of Washington.

It so happened that the chairman of the commission, Mr. Burnham, was

the architect of the new Pennsylvania Railroad Station at Pittsburgh,

and he had also drawn for the Pennsylvania Railroad Co. the preliminary

plans for the Baltimore & Potomac Railroad Station in Washington. After

consultation, Mr. Burnham proposed to the president of the Pennsylvania

Railroad Co. that the station be built on the south side of the Mall

and the adjoining lands; and, while the matter received serious

consideration, no action was taken. It was during the stay of the

commission in London that President Cassatt announced to Mr. Burnham

his willingness to consider the question, not of moving the Baltimore

& Potomac Railroad Station to the south side of the Mall but of

withdrawing altogether from that region and uniting with the Baltimore

& Ohio Railroad Co. in the erection of a union station on the site

established by legislation for the new depot of that road, provided

suitable legislation be secured to make compensation for the increased

expense such a change would involve, and provided, also, that the

approaches to the new site be made worthy of the building the railroads

proposed to erect.

Subsequent examination convinced the commission that from an esthetic

standpoint there were insuperable objections to the depot site provided

by law; the chief objection being that were the station to front on C

Street a train shed 800 feet long would be thrown across Massachusetts

Avenue, one of the great thoroughfares of the city. Not only would the

vista be blocked by a commercial building, but also the street would

be carried underneath this enormous structure in a tunnel so long as

to cause the avenue to be avoided by traffic. The commission thereupon

proposed a site fronting on Massachusetts Avenue, and that was the

one adopted for the Union Station. The plans called for a station 8

feet and 8 inches longer than the Capitol, the building to be of white

marble, the façade Roman in style of architecture, and the construction

and arrangements so planned as to make this station superior to any

structure ever erected for railway purposes. Facing the Capitol, and

yet not too near that building, the new station was designed to front

upon a plaza 600 feet in width and 1,200 feet in length, where bodies

of troops or large organizations could be formed during inaugural times

or on other like occasions. Thus located and so constructed, the Union

Station makes a great and impressive gateway to Washington.

In considering the views of the commission, and in reaching his

decision, the president of the Pennsylvania Railroad Co. looked at the

matter from the standpoint of an American citizen, saying in substance

that he appreciated the fact that if Congress intended to make of the

Mall what the founders of the city intended it to be, no railroad

should be allowed to cross it, and that he was willing to vacate the

space provided the matter could be arranged without sacrificing the

interests of the stockholders of the Pennsylvania Railroad Co. This

conditional consent on the part of the railroad, which was later agreed

to by Congress, removed the one great obstacle to the preparation of

adequate plans for the improvement of the city. Lesser obstacles,

such as the lack of surveys of the oldest parks in the District and

the difficulties of getting together the widely scattered data, were

surmounted. On the other hand, the work was much lightened by the

excellent topographical maps of the District outside of the city

prepared by the Coast and Geodetic Survey.

[Illustration: TREATMENT FOR AREA WEST OF THE CAPITOL, PLAN OF 1901]

THE CAPITOL GROUP

Naturally the plan of 1901 began at the Capitol. It was recommended

that the chief legislative building of the Nation be surrounded by

structures dependent on or supplementary to legislative work. The

Library of Congress had been completed in 1897. The enjoyment and

satisfaction taken in the Library by the thousands of persons from

all parts of the country who visit it daily is an indication of the

manner in which the American people regard the upbuilding of their

Capital. Since the Library Building was designed we have learned

lessons of subordination in grouping (as shown in the Senate and House

Office Buildings and in the Union Station), and also of restraint in

decoration; but the Library contains individual work of the leading

painters and sculptors of its era.

[Illustration: UNION SQUARE, PLAN OF 1901]

The idea of office buildings for the Members of the Senate and the

House of Representatives was in mind when the plan was being made, and

therefore the areas these buildings would naturally occupy were marked.

The three buildings were designed and constructed in such manner as to

make them an integral part of the Capitol group. Simple, elegant, and

dignified, the Senate and House of Representatives Office Buildings

carry on the great tradition established by Washington and Jefferson

in the selection of the Thornton design for the original building, and

persistently maintained by President Fillmore in the extension of the

Capitol by Thomas U. Walter.

By common consent the remaining space facing the Capitol on the east

was assigned to a building for the Supreme Court of the United States,

which since the removal of the seat of government to the District of

Columbia in 1800 occupied the same building with the Congress.

On the south below the House of Representatives Office Buildings the

frontage is occupied by nondescript buildings, all undignified and

unsightly. The obvious use of this land is building sites and house

gardens to balance Union Station Plaza on the north. This also is a

project for the future.

THE HEAD OF THE MALL

The area directly west of the Capitol grounds was marked on the

L’Enfant map as an open plaza, affording an approach to that building

similar to the one on the east. Owing to the slow development of

Washington the west front underwent various vicissitudes. The Baltimore

& Ohio Railroad Co. tracks once were located about on a line with the

Peace and Garfield Monuments. The Botanic Garden area was reclaimed

from an alder swamp, and the James Creek Canal wound its way through

it. A quarter of a century ago the House passed a bill for the removal

of the Botanic Garden fence, with the view of giving the public access

to that park in the same manner that other parks are open.

The plan of 1901 aimed to restore this area to its intended uses as a

broad thoroughfare so enriched with parterres as to form an organic

connection between the Capitol Grounds and the Mall. Anticipating the

improvement of this square, named Union Square, as outlined in the

plan, Congress located therein the memorial to General Grant, the base

of which was designed to be used as a reviewing stand, and later a site

in the same area was designated for the monument to General Meade. The

Grant Memorial was completed a number of years ago, the Meade Monument

is also in place, and the Botanic Garden has been relocated south of

Maryland Avenue, near the Capitol. The new plan for Union Square as

carried out, was made by Frederick Law Olmsted in 1935.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE MALL

That section of the Mall between Third and Four-and-a-half Streets

has been laid out and planted with elms in accordance with the plan

of 1901, and Congress has provided for putting in the roadways. The

temporary buildings in the Mall were so located that upon removal the

roadways will be in accordance with the Mall plan, and as fast as

the buildings are razed the planting of trees can be made. The space

between Four-and-a-half and Sixth Streets was so improved and restored

during the fiscal year beginning July 1, 1921.

Congress has authorized the occupation of the north side of the Mall

between Third and Seventh Streets (former site of the Pennsylvania

Station) by the National Gallery of Art, designed by John Russell Pope.

Plans for the building approved by the Commission of Fine Arts are

classical in style of architecture.

Auditoriums, both large and small, designed for the uses of

conventions, inaugural exercises, and meetings of patriotic societies

are among the prime necessities of Washington. Such gathering places

would meet governmental and semipublic needs and be advantageous to the

growth of American feeling.

[Illustration: MALL AND MONUMENT GARDENS, PLAN OF 1901]

The space between Third and Seventh Streets, on the south side of the

Mall is being considered for the Smithsonian Gallery of Art, authorized

by Congress, to house the collections of works of art that have been

given to the Nation. The planting and roadways continuous with those

already in place on the Mall can then be put in.

The new National Museum Building was the first structure to be located

and erected according to the plan of 1901, having been aligned in

conformity to the new Mall axis. On the south side of the Mall the

new Freer Gallery also conforms to the revised axis. This gallery is

a constituent portion of the National Gallery of Art. It represents

one of the largest gifts ever made by an individual to the Government.

Although comparatively small in extent, both the building itself and

the collections now being arranged within it represent the very highest

standards of art. Moreover, the Freer Gallery is a type of the small,

adequately housed, and well-endowed gallery which doubtless will be

established from time to time by private individuals and given to

the Nation to be administered by the Smithsonian Institution for the

instruction and gratification of the people.

The section of the Mall between Twelfth and Fourteenth Streets is

occupied by the Department of Agriculture. The location of the two

wings of the building designed to accommodate the administrative

offices of the department precipitated a contest, on the result of

which depended the fate of the plan of 1901. It was due to the firm

stand taken by President Roosevelt and Secretary of War Taft that the

location was made in accordance with the plan. That crisis having been

met satisfactorily, the future of the Mall scheme was assured, and

since then the plan for park connection between the Capitol and the

White House has become an established fact.

While L’Enfant had planned a driveway through the center of the Mall,

the Mall Plan of 1901 consists of an expanse of undulating green park,

a mile in length and 300 feet wide, extending from the Capitol to the

Monument. This central green space is bordered by park roads, flanked

by four rows of American elms, under the shade of which are walks and

resting places. Back of these rows of trees are other roads furnishing

access to public buildings like the National Museum, the Department of

Agriculture Building, the Freer Gallery, and the National Gallery of

Art, which have been located according to the plan.

RESTORING THE MALL AXIS

According to the L’Enfant plan the Monument to George Washington was to

be located at the point where a line drawn due west from the center of

the Capitol would intersect a line drawn due south from the center of

the White House. On these axial relations the Mall composition depended

for its effect. The builders of the Washington Monument, despairing of

securing adequate foundations in the lowlands at the intersection of

the main and the cross axes, located the Monument without regard to

points fixed in the plan. Feeling the absolute necessity of restoring

these relationships, the Park Commission boldly determined to create

a new main axis by drawing a line from the Capitol Dome through the

Washington Monument and prolonging it to the shore of the Potomac,

where they proposed, on the then unimproved lands dredged from the

river to form Potomac Park, a site for a new memorial. Here they placed

the long-contemplated memorial to Abraham Lincoln. This they did with

full comprehension of the fact that by common consent Lincoln is the

one man in the history of this Nation worthy to stand with Washington

in the great central composition.

[Illustration: PLAN OF THE MALL]

The original intersection had been marked by Thomas Jefferson by a

small monument known as the Jefferson Pier. In the McMillan Park

Commission plan of 1901 this pier is indicated by a circular pool. That

commission, as has been said, restored the cross axis of the Mall,

and from the Mall plan of 1901 by actual measurement the Washington

Monument is 371.6 feet east of the north and south axis of the White

House, and 123.17 feet south of the Capitol axis.

EXTENDING THE MALL AXIS TO THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL

While this location of the Lincoln Memorial commended itself to men

like Theodore Roosevelt, John Hay, Elihu Root, and William H. Taft,

it was opposed by many others, who had regard to the immediate future

and who did not consider either the historical significance of the

situation or the prospective development of Potomac Park, then far from

the more populous parts of the city and thus seemingly isolated and

remote. The struggle over this location, and indeed over any memorial

of an ideal character, was long and bitter. Nor was it ended during

the lifetime of Mr. McKim and Mr. Saint-Gaudens. Happily, however,

the result was determined in accordance with the commission plan, and

to-day no other site seems possible. This was a distinct victory for

the plan, virtually insuring the realization of the large scheme as

laid out in 1901.

The Park Commission wrote as follows:

From the Monument garden westward a canal 3,600 feet long and 200

feet wide, with central arms and bordered by stretches of green

walled with trees, leads to a concourse raised to the height of the

Monument platform. Seen from the Monument this canal, similar in

character to the canals at Versailles and Fontainebleau in France

and Hampton Court in England, introduces into the formal landscape

an element of repose and great beauty. At the head of the canal a

great rond-point, placed on the main axis of the Capitol and the

Monument, becomes a gate of approach to the park system of the

District of Columbia. Centering upon it as a great point of reunion

are the drives leading southeast to Potomac Park and northwest by

the Riverside Drive to the Rock Creek system of parks. From this

elevation of 40 feet the Memorial Bridge leads across the Potomac

directly to the base of the hill crowned by the mansion house of

Arlington.

[Illustration: SITE OF THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL, 1901]

Crowning the rond-point, as the Arc de Triomphe crowns the Place de

l’Etoile at Paris, should stand a memorial erected to the memory

of that one man in our history as a nation who is worthy to stand

with George Washington--Abraham Lincoln. Whatever may be the exact

form selected for the memorial to Lincoln, in form it should possess

the quality of universality, and also it should have a character

essentially distinct from that of any other monument either now

existing in the District or hereafter to be erected. The type which

the commission has in mind is a great portico of Doric columns rising

from an unbroken stylobate.

The foregoing recommendations were among the fundamentals of the plan

of 1901. Ten years were required to embody them in legislation. To-day

the Lincoln Memorial and the Arlington Memorial Bridge are completed

along the general lines suggested.

[Illustration: THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL, MEMORIAL BRIDGE, AND RIVERSIDE

DRIVE, PLAN OF 1901]

There are many other features of the McMillan plan that the report of

1901 describes to which attention is called in the subsequent pages

of this volume; thus there is the Rock Creek Parkway, the Anacostia

Park development, the Fort Drive, the parkway along the Palisades of

the Potomac to Great Falls, and the Mount Vernon Highway. The plans

for these projects required authorization by Congress and time to make

necessary land purchases; but at the present time there is indication

that they will be completed in the near future. The day has come when

the Greater Washington, or the metropolitan area of Washington, is

being brought into the scheme of development of the National Capital.

The plan of 1901 reasserted the authority of the original plan of

L’Enfant, extended to meet the needs of the Nation after a century of

growth in power, wealth, and dignity, and also marked the path for

future development.

[Illustration: THE FUTURE WASHINGTON]

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