LETTER XVI.

Rottnest, _3d March_.

Which shall I tell you about first, the natives or the pets? I think I

remember promising to tell you about the natives, so I will begin with

them.

There are about one hundred and fifty native prisoners over here,

and it is rather curious to hear what their crimes have been.

Sometimes they have committed the most causeless and senseless murders

imaginable—murders so entirely without any reason that the judge has

hesitated to hang them, because they appear to have acted on just a

savage impulse. Last year a particularly brutal murder was committed,

where the murderers _had_ a motive and were sufficiently civilised to

understand what they were doing, so they had to be hung, alas! not

merely as a punishment, but as a warning. But if there is any possible

chance that the culprit may not have understood the wickedness of his

act, then the criminal is sent over here, where he is kindly treated,

and well taken care of, and where his punishment will be made into a

means of civilisation for him. So that when it is over, and the man is

sent back to his own tribe, it is hoped that he may be better, and not

worse, for his stay at Rottnest.

Every Sunday the prisoners are allowed to roam about at perfect

liberty all over the island to get their own food, so that they may

not entirely forget how to provide for themselves. They have their

breakfast before they go out and their supper after they come in; but

they delight in finding dinner for themselves. First of all, they

fashion small spears and fishing-lines, and go and fish, and they

hunt for all the snakes in the island, and lizards, and every other

native delicacy. Little fires are lighted—always in a safe place,

where the bush cannot catch fire,—and the natives lie down and sleep

by them, and all the time are as happy and merry as schoolboys, never

doing the least mischief, or touching anything which does not belong

to them. I never miss any of my fowls or ducks, nor do prisoners

misbehave themselves in any way. At sunset you see them trooping in,

jolly as possible, laughing and chatting to each other. No warder

goes out with them on Sunday, and the only things carefully guarded

are boats, lest they should escape to the mainland. It is out of the

question to attempt to enforce the discipline of an ordinary convict

prison with these people. The natives are just like children, more or

less irresponsible, and whilst we try to control and teach them the

rights of life and property, we have to do so kindly, patiently, and

good-humouredly.

Even after they are shut up in their prison at night in cells, which

are a thousand times more comfortable than their _Mia-mias_, or huts,

the warders do not prevent their singing, and talking, and laughing;

and if they keep up the noise too long, a good-humoured “Come, come,

boys; too much noise make-um” from the superintendent is enough to

restore quiet and peace directly.

The natives are seldom actually lazy, though they cannot be said to

like hard work; but the light tasks to which they are put generally

interest and amuse them, and they behave perfectly well. Your father

goes out quite alone after his ducks of an evening, with a couple

of murderers as retrievers, and it is very amusing to hear their

conversations. One man, Peter by name, is going out of prison next

month, and is very fond of telling us what he would “Give Guvna

eat-um,” if he came to see him up in his own country. “Wild turkey

give-um, fish, p’raps; very good lizard, plenty worms” (I forget

the unpronounceable name he has for this delicacy), “show Guvna how

kangaroo spear-um,” and so forth. Peter’s little mistake consisted in

spearing a woman who was wrangling with his wife. He declares he only

meant to spear her leg (a spear in the leg is considered the gentlest

possible hint that your company is not desired just then); but “wife

knock up hand, spear go so, hit woman throat; she very sick—die. Peter

nothing bad fellow, woman bad fellow, come wife talk-um.” That is his

idea of the affair; but I think he has learned over here not to be

quite so ready with his spear.

Then some of them are in for sheep-stealing. They pretend they don’t

know why a sheep should not be as fair game for a spear as a kangaroo;

but it is not possible to accept this excuse, and the juries find it

equally hard to believe that the native is as ignorant as he pretends

to be, specially as he shows great ingenuity in hiding the remains of

the mutton-feast.

Tribal murders are another difficulty in our path of civilisation.

One man, a chief, perhaps, at all events a “prominent citizen,” dies

from natural causes; the tribe at once draw lots who shall go and kill

another man in another tribe, as nearly as possible the equal of the

dead chief in size and age and tribal importance; and he, upon whom

the lot fell, would be disgraced for ever, cast out from among his own

people, and probably killed, if he made the faintest objection to the

task. One gentle, inoffensive-looking young man was pointed out to me

as a murderer. His mother had died lately, and the remedy proposed and

insisted on by his relatives, as a cure for the unusual degree of grief

her death caused the youth, was to go and murder a woman of the same

age of another tribe. He did so, and was quite surprised that his own

sorrow for his mother was not lessened. “Me just same cry-um.”

Then they get mischievous impulses to take a life, which they don’t

know how to resist, specially if they have the chance to spear a white

man. I heard a story the other day of a settler, far away in the

interior, who was exceptionally kind to the natives round, and they, in

their turn, were thoroughly devoted to him. He was one day walking in

a thick bush, with a black servant following him, armed for the chase.

The native presently came up and earnestly begged leave to walk first

in the narrow path, because he did not know how long he would be able

to resist the impulse to fling his spear at the back of the white man

walking before him.

Their endurance of pain is something marvellous; we saw many little

instances of it at Rottnest, and I was much amused at our friend Peter,

who hurt his foot during one of the shooting excursions I have told

you about. We felt much concern at the sight of the bleeding toe, and

strict orders were given that Peter should not do any work, and that

his foot should be properly attended to. Next evening, however, Peter

appeared, ready to walk any number of miles, with a bit of rag round

the wounded toe, and scoffing at the idea of not going out to look for

“big fellow,” or “’nipe”!

But here is a story I have copied for you from a delightful book by

Mr. Brough Smyth.[1] It is in one of two splendid big volumes full of

pictures and stories which would delight you, and half of the second

volume is taken up with an account of Western Australia which I read

with much interest. Mr. Smyth says this story was told him by some one

else, but it is doubtless perfectly true.

[1] _Aborigines of Victoria_, Trübner and Co.

“In the summer of 1852 I started on horseback from Albany, to pay a

visit about 70 miles south-east, accompanied by a native on foot. We

travelled about 40 miles the first day, and camped for the night in a

clump of tea-tree scrub near a water-hole. After cooking and eating

our supper I observed the native, who had said nothing to me on the

subject, collect the hot embers of the fire together, and deliberately

place his right foot in the glowing mass for a moment, and then

suddenly withdraw it, stamping on the ground and uttering a long-drawn

guttural sound of mingled pain and satisfaction. This he repeated

several times. On my inquiring the meaning of his strange conduct he

only said ‘Me carpenter make-um’ (that is, ‘I am mending my foot’), and

then showed me his charred great toe, the nail of which had been torn

off by a stump during the journey, and the pain of which he had borne

with stoical composure. He proceeded on his journey next morning as if

nothing had happened, his toe bound up in a piece of native tea-tree

bark.”

When the English first began to settle in this part of Australia they

found the natives fearfully burned and charred all over their bodies,

from their habit of getting _into_ the fire at night for warmth. Now

that the Government provide them with blankets, and the settlers and

others often give them cast-off clothes, they do not roast themselves

so much, though they still love a little bit of fire in the shade, on

even the very hottest day.

One evening we went, a large merry party, up to the jail at dark to see

a corrobberie. It was an evening of intense delight to “the boys,” as

the prisoners are called, as great a pleasure as giving a very smart

ball would be to us, and they had been busy all the afternoon painting

themselves, and decorating their hair. The chief adornment consisted

in a streak of some white clay between each rib, and similar daubs of

white and a red pigment they find among the rocks inland, smeared all

over their faces, in a pattern or design; while their heads were more

like a crow’s nest than anything else I can think of. A couple of large

brushwood fires were lighted in the centre of the big courtyard, and a

few natives stood by to feed the flames. The dancers supplied the music

themselves, and the most curious part of the performance was the way

they all gave the grunt or “wuff” _exactly_ in unison. Every movement

of the one hundred and twenty performers was made absolutely and

entirely together, like one man, and the grunts which guided them were

equally exact in time. It was a weird and striking scene; but we became

weary of watching it long before the dancers grew tired. However, at

one good-humoured word of dismissal, the performance instantly broke

up, and “the boys” trooped off, laughing and gay, to their cells, happy

in the promise of a half-holiday and a stick of tobacco apiece, as a

reward for their exertions.

More wonderful and interesting, however, is it to see them throw the

kylie (what is called the boomerang in other parts of Australia),

a curiously curved and flat stick, about a foot long and two or

three inches wide. There are heavier “ground kylies,” which skim

along the ground, describing marvellous turns and twists, and they

would certainly break the leg of any bird or beast they hit; but

their gyrations are nothing compared to those of a good air-kylie in

skilful hands. A great open space is needed to watch the flight of a

well-thrown air-kylie. The eye can scarcely follow the movement of the

lithe body or the deft turn of the wrist with which the kylie leaves

the hand, and soars up into space, and is lost to sight for a second

or two, before you catch a glimpse of what looks like a bird circling

high above. The circles grow narrower, and the bird becomes a trifle

larger. It turns round completely, and changes its course just at the

last, and finally comes wheeling down, only a bit of flat stick and not

a bird after all, near its sender’s feet. No description can possibly

give you the least idea of this wonderful performance—the ease with

which the kylie can be thrown, the height to which it will soar, nor

the wide and varying circles it describes. There were some very good

kylie-throwers among the native prisoners; and, for my part, I never

wearied of watching them as they flung, in friendly rivalry, their

bird-like weapons in an immense open field at the back of the house.

Their aim is so astoundingly accurate. When one sees these weapons

skimming through the air, high above one’s head, it requires a good

deal of confidence to believe that they will not kill some one in

their descent; but no accident ever happens to the scattered groups of

watchers. The thrower knows exactly where his kylie will fall after it

has finished its “gyres and gimbles” on its own account, and he takes

up his position accordingly.

The spear-throwing is also very wonderful. The spears are so very

long, and, in our hands, would be so utterly unmanageable. They will

throw spears _at_ each other for hours, each man having only a short,

narrow grooved shield to protect himself—a wooden shield a couple of

feet long by 5 or 6 inches wide—_I_ could not protect myself from a

skilfully thrown knitting-needle with so slender a defence; yet each

spear is caught and turned aside upon this absurd buckler with the

greatest ease. The war-spears have notched and barbed heads, and are

cruel-looking weapons, modelled evidently from a shark’s jaw; but the

light hunting-spear, sharply-pointed, with needles of flint fixed in

the point by one of the wonderful gums they find in the bush, is a much

more business-like affair. These they throw with a broad, flat holder,

called a wammeroo, from which they propel the spear with a capital aim

and great force. I have often thought how much I should like to take

some of these natives home, and show you their kylie and spear-throwing

performances; but the poor men never could stand the English climate,

and I don’t believe you could easily find a space sufficiently clear

of trees, where they would not be liable to break a cottage window, or

some one’s head.

What is so wonderful in these native weapons is the skill and accuracy

with which they are fashioned, absolutely without tools. I have seen a

“scoop,” as they call it, hollowed out of very hard wood, in the first

instance by fire, but shaped and smoothed with infinite patience and

labour by means of a rude chisel made of a flint stuck into a cleft of

wood. The scoop was smooth and symmetrical, quite light, and of a shape

which would allow of its being carried easily on the back or on the

head. It answered the purpose of either a basket or a bucket, according

to what was needed. Their spears show perhaps the greatest ingenuity,

and I don’t know which I find most curious; the light hunting-spear,

thrown with unerring precision by means of the flat, short board I have

described, and pointed with a sharp shell or a thorn or a flint, or

the heavy war-spears, some 10 or 12 feet long, with elaborately carved

barbs, all in pointed notches like shark’s teeth. Of course their only

models are taken from nature, but their contrivances are wonderful.

They weave mats very cleverly to wear, as well as to carry bundles, or

to lie on; and the skins of whatever animals they hunt are carefully

dried and made soft. The shields, too, are grooved in a neat and

accurate zigzag pattern with alternate lines of red and white colour

made out of pigments. I have seen a sort of rope or twine twisted from

kangaroo fur, which was just like a rude yarn from sheep’s wool. Their

hatchets are very ingenious, the centre being made of a large lump

of “black-boy” gum, which is worked up when warm into a solid lump,

into each end of which a sort of blade made of flint is fastened; the

handle, of course, is a piece of wood, but the whole tool is admirably

fitted for its work.

Perhaps the “message sticks” are the most curious, with their smooth

surface on which all the news of the place is neatly and carefully

drawn. It looks like etching, and is done with a finely-pointed red-hot

stick; it is really the newspaper of the district. You see the long

strip of land, with its post and rail fence, or the two or three rude

little houses which constitute the nucleus of what is going to be a

great city, perhaps; or else there is an unmistakable bit of a harbour,

and the fleet of pearlers is just coming in, with every sail set and a

fair wind. Here is the outline of a pathetic story, plainly told: There

are some trees just indicated, men stand by an open grave, horses are

picketed behind, and there is the rude cross in the corner, where a

little clearing has already been made to mark a former explorer’s grave.

The natives are now giving up making weapons or household utensils, for

there are few places where they cannot procure English equivalents,

which are of course ever so much more convenient; and many of the

people express themselves to me as being now ashamed of their primitive

contrivances. The tribal feeling is, however, still very strong,

and each tribe yet retains its different dialect, as well as its

distinguishing marks and customs.

You can easily imagine how impossible it is to get hold of the natives

after they are grown up—for they are a very debased sort of savage—and

to teach or civilise them in any way. So we chiefly look to what we can

do for the children, to improve the condition of the next generation;

and every effort is made to take the little creatures away from their

parents if there is reason to believe them to be ill-treated; but if

the parents are kind, then many inducements are held out to the mother

to come and settle near the children, where she can see for herself

that they are happy and well-cared for. But generally the older natives

soon get tired of any settled mode of life and go off suddenly, perhaps

taking their little ones with them. Of course we can only persuade, not

compel, but it is disappointing to lose the care of a dear intelligent

little child, who might have been trained to much good. I am very fond

of the Mission children, whose home, under our Bishop’s care, is in

Perth, and I often go to visit them, besides seeing them every Sunday,

smiling and neat and happy looking, on their way to or from church.

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