ENTRANCES
We view our flower-plots at their best, gazing at them through the
vine-clad entrance, as we glance down the gravel walk bordered on either
side by masses of brilliant flowers. Involuntarily, our eyes wander
along farther afield till we meet the background of trees clad in
verdant foliage, a fitting setting for the picture laid out in patches
of color, fitting into the canvas with a well-defined plan. We can but
feel as we stand looking down on this paradise of flowers that we are
thankful for the thought that first created gardens.
When they came into existence it is hard to determine, for mention is
found of flowers and the traditions of wonderful gardens, laid out long
before man had chiseled the hieroglyphics depicted on Egyptian tombs.
The love of flowers is a heritage handed down from generation to
generation.
Homer, when speaking of Laertes, trying in vain to find consolation in
his flowers, while mourning the departure of Telemachus, goes on to show
us that great men turn to gardens to heal sorrow. Philosophy was taught
by Epicurus surrounded by his beloved pupils among the flowers.
From the early Greeks the Romans took their first lesson in
floriculture. It was after their invasion of Brittany that they
introduced certain flowers and fruits, like grapes, roses and violets,
into English gardens. The art of gardening advanced steadily, reaching
its zenith in good Queen Elizabeth's time, when there were in England
many pleasing gardens, formal and stiff, to be sure, but a fit setting
for the architecture of that day.
While the garden designs abounded in beautiful walks and flowers, yet
the entrance to the grounds formed as it were the key-note to it all.
Has it ever occurred to you, as you stood hesitating at the portals of
the gardens, that these were suggestive of some well-thought-out plan,
as like grim sentinels they stand guarding the flower treasures? There
is as much contrast in this part of the plan as there is in the design
itself. Here we find a narrow, forbidding entrance, giving no glimpse of
the flowers within; again we come to a wide, welcoming one, beckoning,
as it were, for us to pass through the portals and gaze with delight on
the beauties hinted at beforehand and now disclosed to the eye.
For Colonial treatment there is nothing more dignified or stately than
the square wooden posts, inclosing a locust inner one. They are built of
white pine, one of the most lasting woods to be found in our country,
and are Colonial or Georgian in design. Many of them are ornamental,
topped with balls, urns, or torch devices and with elaborate
hand-carving, so wonderful in its design that architects copy them in
their modified Colonial houses of to-day. This was the work of one of
the most noted wood-carvers in our country, Samuel McIntyre, whose name
is a household word to architects and landscape designers all over the
country.
There are two ways of treating the entrance. One of them is by adding an
ornamental gate, corresponding in type with that of the posts. The other
is to leave the posts gateless; while both are correct, yet the former
way is more often used as it lends an air of privacy to the ground. It
also helps out the effect planned by giving a touch of picturesqueness
that would be otherwise lacking. A much too common mistake is the
introduction of Southern architecture into Northern gateways; the lines
and details do not always conform with the type of the house.
Most of these gates are hung by iron or brass hinges, but the earliest
ones use the strap hinge, which carries out the Colonial idea. The
difficulty with the strap hinge is that it is not always strong enough
to hold the gates without sagging, and the wider the entrance the
heavier the strain. While the design varies, yet rarely do we find one
constructed in the seventeenth century that is not simple and with
picket effects. The pickets have pointed tops and are sometimes
irregularly spaced, while the brace often shows an artistic curve.
Occasionally, we find the posts yoked, through a connecting arch. This
is often latticed and if rightly designed adds to the ornamental effect.
An old lantern is sometimes an attractive feature. The arch should be
painted to match the color of the posts, a very good combination for
this use is pure white lead, or zinc, combined with linseed oil. If you
do not care to mix it yourself it can be bought ready for use. For the
best effects, a thin coat should be used at first and it depends upon
how easily it is covered as to how many coats to apply. If you wish to
give a better finish, have an excess of turpentine over linseed oil in
the last coat. There is more economy in covering it properly at first,
as otherwise it will have to be re-painted each year.
With the evolution of garden culture has come a similar change in the
design and material used to form our entrances. On the large estates of
to-day, rarely if ever, do we find the ornamental Colonial. It would be
as much out of place as if the mistress of the house affected silken
brocades with wig and patches.
The white paling fence, unless for simple cottages, has entirely gone
out of style and in its place we find cement walls. Often these are
topped with a coping of limestone. The gate-posts, being formed over
strong locust posts that have been driven firmly into the ground, are
supported by brick or cement foundation.
Where the mansion shows in exterior brick, often with trimmings of
limestone, the same idea is worked out in the wall. In cases like this
an ornamental iron gate, hung on staples, supercedes the simple
Colonial ones of former days. Occasionally, the name of the estate is
interwoven in the ornamentation, or sometimes it is carved on the stone
entrance posts.
Natural material is coming more and more to be used and we find a rubble
wall, constructed from stone and boulders picked up on the grounds, left
often rough, and again filled in with red cement to make it more stable.
The rubble wall is generally topped with cement laid perfectly flat. The
entrance posts follow this same line of treatment and while they are
often left hollow for several inches down, these are packed solidly
inside with small rocks to keep them in place. The excavation is filled
in with rich soil and bright blossoming plants introduced. This gives a
bit of color scheme that is very effective as a foil for the cold gray
of the stone. Vines are often planted at the foot of the posts, the turf
being dug away for several inches, and rich loam introduced to better
insure their growth. It depends entirely upon how heavy one wishes the
covering to be as to the kind of vine planted. If it is the idea to hide
it effectively from sight and produce massing of green, an entirely
different planting should be made than if it was intended to have a
delicate coloring of green that would only enhance the color of the
background.
[Illustration: A FINE DECORATIVE IRON GATEWAY]
Right combinations are very important in this line of work. It would be
foolish to use woodwork combined with heavy stone or iron. It is
sometimes in better form to have wide slabs of granite or cement
defining several layers of brick. The height and width naturally depend
upon what it intends to imply.
Low piers of masonry capped with a pointed effect should stand by
themselves without any planting, as the latter often disfigures
architectural effects. It is not always necessary that this feature of
the exterior should be conspicuous, more particularly if the posts are
constructed of wood. Treat them to a light creosote stain, thus giving a
picturesque background for the overlapping vines. Sometimes combinations
work out well in producing artistic results. With a rough stone pillar,
it is sometimes in good taste to introduce gateways of oak, which while
effective under certain conditions, are very bad under others. These are
much more attractive the second year, when they have weathered to a
picturesque pearly gray. This color harmonizes delightfully, not only
with the walls but with the flowers and their foliage. An important
thing that should not be forgotten is the use of wooden pegs and copper
nails, neither of which are injured by rain. If you choose to use a wire
fence, let the gate-post and gates correspond for it is far better than
to combine materials inharmoniously. They are not only practical but
light and in their construction there is a chance to work into the
scheme ornamental designs. Do not finish this with a square box top,
rather give it a bit of ornamentation such as a ball or a lantern. There
can be had to-day so many ornamental lanterns, constructed of wrought
iron, that they can be purchased in almost any type desired. It is far
better not to cover the posts with vines and thus conceal the beauty of
the work. The most effective way would be to build up wire arches and
plant rambler roses back of the posts for them to run on.
The Sweet Briar, if one is looking for perfume, is desirable. They can
be purchased in single and semi-double flowers, created through the
developing and crossing of the old-fashioned variety. Rambler roses are
always in good taste. It is better to plant three or four kinds that
show harmonious coloring. There is the Lord Penzance, a soft fawn,
turning to lemon yellow in the center. This is particularly adaptable
for covering arches as it is a strong grower and abundant blossomer. The
Meg Merrilies fits into this color scheme, putting forth gorgeous
crimson flowers during the six weeks of its flowering. Combine with
these the Brenda, and you will find that this mixture lends a brightness
that is very effective. Many people object to roses on account of their
many enemies. One of the most common is the powdery mildew. This is
easily distinguished by a powdery growth of white that is found on both
leaves and shoots. Use sulphur very freely, and you will find it
disappear. The stem cancer is a serious disease, and it is found on both
the cane and the branches. In dealing with this the grower must not be
afraid to use the pruning knife vigorously, so that the diseased parts
can be thoroughly removed, in this way preventing spreading and the ruin
of the vine. From the time of its planting the rambler needs constant
attention, but it brings its own reward, in that there is no vine that
can equal it in beauty. The advantage of having a variety of colors
instead of one is readily seen, for it prevents a large mass of one
individual color.
There is a pleasure indescribable felt by lovers of plants when
designing any feature of their grounds. This is particularly true with
the gate and the planting. They must bear in mind, however, the true
purpose of gates and their proper use on country estates. It is designed
as a means of ingress, and as such, should be suited to the type of
mansion. Therefore, into its plan should be worked the atmosphere of the
residence as well as the characteristics of the surrounding country. For
instance, a wooden fence and gate-post would be entirely inappropriate
if one were dealing with a beautiful summer estate where the house was
to be built of brick.
Compositions should not be carelessly used and it should be remembered
that there is great danger in our zeal for producing something unique,
of going to the other extreme and giving an over-ornamental creation.
One cannot be too particular in making the entrance and the adjoining
fence accord with the idea one is trying to bring out in the whole plan.
The driveway is of fully as much importance as the entrance. It should
be kept scrupulously neat and free from weeds. To have it at its best
it should be thoroughly under-drained, and for this the open-joint
drain tile is advisable. It should be laid under ground and connected,
if possible, with the sewer. Properly attended to, this keeps the
road-bed dry and in good condition. The bed itself should be dug down
for several feet, a foundation of earth from six to ten inches should be
laid, over which can be thrown a layer six inches thick of either broken
limestone or chopped trap rock. Cover the whole with a screening of
limestone and finish it with gravel. Have it rolled hard and you realize
the advantage as the season ends.
The drive should be sufficiently wide for carriages to pass through
without besmearing your gate-posts with mud and dust. One should realize
that the driveway is in reality a foot-path enlarged, and should always
be kept immaculate. The gate, if you wish to prevent its sagging, should
open in the center. A two-part gate gives often a better effect than one
long one. Nothing equals iron, which can be treated in so many different
ways that there is little danger of repetition in design.
The capping is as important as the post itself. Simple square box
treatment is advisable in some cases. Balls fit into the scheme on some
estates, while Colonial urns are in keeping with wooden posts and
lantern effects belong to iron gateways. The latter, of course, are
effective for lighting at night. Gas pipes can be laid under the
roadway, connected with the ornamentation in such a way that they can be
turned on from the house.
In many entrances, side gates, similar to the main ones have been
inserted, which relieve the main entrance from use by pedestrians. They
can be so laid out as not to interfere with the use of the motor cars.
They should be separated from the main driveway by a turf border and
covered with gravel.
Planting is very effective for this feature of the ground, and trees,
that is if the right sort are chosen, are admirable, used in this
connection. White birches lend a picturesqueness that cannot be equaled,
but they are short-lived. The elm with its graceful branches seems to
fit into every landscape scheme. Do not plant them too near the posts.
If you do, their roots will reach out often causing upheaval and
creating havoc. For best effects the trees should be used outside rather
than inside the entrance. In the latter case they are too apt to cut off
the view.
[Illustration: A SUCCESSFUL ENTRANCE TO A FORMAL GARDEN]
Many people prefer a hedge and this can be planted either with or
without a fence. Arbor-vitae is practical for such use as is the
Buckthorn and the Berberis Thunbergii (Thunberg's Japanese Barberry).
This is a Japanese hedge with round, drooping habit. It leaves out in a
fine brilliant green during the summer months and from autumn until
December takes on a wonderful showing of color. During the winter months
the branches, loaded with scarlet crimson berries, make an effective
contrast with the white of the snow. Its value as a hedge is because it
is impenetrable and thickly set with spines, never growing bare. The
most popular shrub for hedge treatment is Privet-Ligustrum. It is very
ornamental with a rich dark green foliage that is nearly evergreen and
remains on the plant until late winter. It is a good grower under the
most adverse circumstances. In order to form the most effective hedge it
should be planted from ten to twelve inches apart and pruned back during
the first two seasons.
The Ampelopsis Arborea woodbine is useful for entrances. It is a
distinct variation from the other forms, making a spreading bush rather
than a strong climber. Its leaves are dark green and comparatively
coarse, and its autumn coloring is superb. The Boston Ivy clings even to
wood, its fine shoots cover walls and while it requires some covering
during the first two or three winters of its life, yet it pays. In the
fall, nothing can be so gorgeous as the varied colored tints of its
foliage.
The Clematis Paniculata should never be forgotten. It is a rapid and
vigorous climber and can be depended upon to clothe large spaces
quickly. Originally, it was introduced from Japan and is allied to our
native Virgin's Bower. The flowers are effective, borne in long panicles
which are white and their fragrance is perceptible a long distance away.
They open the latter part of August, staying in bloom for nearly a
month. Combined with this should be the Clematis Coccinea (Scarlet
Clematis), whose showy bell-shape, brilliant scarlet flowers are
produced in great profusion.
The Wisteria is adapted to almost any purpose and can be used
picturesquely on many types of entrances. The Wisteria Magnifica is
admirable and resembles Frutescens, but it varies from it in that the
clusters are larger and denser while the yellow lilac colored flowers
have yellow spots.
Among the other vines it is well to plant some that will give a touch
of color during the dark, cold days of winter when the vines lie barren
and bare, their leafless branches swaying in the wind. Why not use for
that the Celastrus Scandens (Bitter Sweet or Wax Work). It is one of our
native climbing plants and can be found in almost any part of the New
England woods, a rapid grower, with attractive, light green foliage and
yellow flowers, followed by bright orange red berries that are cheering
in the fall and lead us to forget the shedding of the foliage by the
other vines.
In order to hide the base of the vine, ferns can be planted. It is
better to use the hardy varieties rather than the more tender ones,
although a combination of the two is always attractive. Take, for
instance, the Adiantum Croweanum, which is one of the hardiest of the
maiden hair species. This, like every other of its kind, should be well
watered and fertilized, grown in a rich, open soil, with plenty of leaf
mould. There is nothing difficult in their culture and they need
absolutely no attention after planting. The Polypodium Vulgare, which is
evergreen, showing smooth, shiny fronds resembling the Boston fern, is
another that is adapted for this purpose.
With these can be combined the Comptonia, or Sweet Fern, a native plant
with fern-like, dark green scented foliage, very useful for foliage
massing on rocky, barren places, and thriving best in dry, sterile soil.
There are many more varieties and it would be impossible to mention them
all. They are, each and every one, suitable for adding to the beauty of
private gardens and estates.
BIRD BATHS
[Illustration: THE CENTRAL FEATURE OF THE GARDEN MAY BE A BIRD-BATH]