CHAPTER I

By the Same Author

A Report on the Antiquities of Lower Nubia

A Catalogue of the Weights and Balances in the Cairo Museum

A Guide to the Antiquities of Upper Egypt

Travels in the Upper Egyptian Deserts

The Life and Times of Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt

A History of Egypt from 1798 to 1914

Madeline of the Desert

The Dweller in the Desert

Bedouin Love

The Life and Times of Akhnaton, Pharaoh of Egypt

THE GLORY OF THE PHARAOHS

[Illustration: Arthur Weigall]

THE GLORY

OF THE

PHARAOHS

BY

ARTHUR WEIGALL

Late Inspector General of Antiquities, Egyptian Government, and

Member of the Catalogue Staff of the Cairo Museum;

Officer of the Order of the Medjidieh.

AUTHOR OF “THE LIFE AND TIMES OF AKHNATON,” ETC.

_With 17 Illustrations_

G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS

NEW YORK LONDON

The Knickerbocker Press

1923

Copyright, 1923

by

Arthur Weigall

Made in the United States of America

PUBLISHER’S FOREWORD

In view of the fact that Mr. Arthur Weigall, while inclined to obscure

himself owing to a distaste for public life, is widely known in several

fields of activity, the Publisher has felt that a short foreword to this

volume will be of interest to those who have wondered as to the author’s

identity.

The writer of these entertaining and scholarly essays was born in 1880,

being the son of the late Major Arthur Weigall and grandson of the Rev.

Edward Weigall, M.A., Vicar of Buxton, Derbyshire: a descendant of an

officer of that name who came to England as Equerry to William of Orange

in 1698.

Various members of the family of Weigall have attained distinction in

England as scholars, painters, sculptors, authors, and diplomats; but

the writer of these essays was originally destined for the Army, and for

that reason was educated at Wellington College. Later, however, he

matriculated for New College, Oxford, causing some flutter in that

academic circle by offering Egyptian hieroglyphic texts as his special

subject for the examination; but he abandoned his ‘Varsity career in

1900 in order to go out to Egypt as assistant excavator to Professor

Flinders Petrie.

At the early age of twenty-four, he was appointed by his friend, Lord

Cromer, Inspector General of Antiquities for Upper Egypt, a post for

which his scholarship, his administrative ability, and his great energy

eminently fitted him. This arduous position he held until 1914; and

during his tenure of office he carried out the most important reforms

with a view to the preservation and safeguarding of antiquities, the

suppression of lawless excavation, and the advancement of the science of

Egyptology. He was present at most of the great discoveries made during

those years, and in particular he supervised the excavations in the

Valley of the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes, in which some of the famous

royal sepulchres were discovered.

Besides his administrative and archæological work he found time to make

several daring expeditions into the unexplored regions of the Eastern

Desert; and in these years he also wrote a number of Egyptological

books, including _A Guide to the Antiquities of Upper Egypt and Lower

Nubia_: _Travels in the Upper Egyptian Deserts_: _The Life and Times of

Akhnaton, Pharaoh of Egypt_: _The Life and Times of Cleopatra_: etc. He

also made a considerable study of the political situation in the Near

East; and his book _A History of Events in Egypt from 1798 to 1914_, and

various papers in the _Fortnightly Review_, had considerable influence

on British policy. For some time, too, Mr. Weigall was a member of the

Catalogue Staff of the Cairo Museum, and in that connection wrote an

important work of a mathematical character on ancient Weights and

Balances.

These books, and his many papers in the _Nineteenth Century_,

_Fortnightly Review_, _Blackwood’s Magazine_, etc., were received with a

chorus of praise; and he was soon recognised as the foremost writer

upon Egyptology, and a master of felicitous expression and description.

His friend the late President Roosevelt, writing in the _Outlook_, spoke

of him as having “that supreme quality of seeing the living body through

the dry bones and then making others see it also,” and as being “not

merely accurate, but truthful with the truth that comes only from

insight and broadminded grasp of essential facts, added to exhaustive

study and wide learning.”

“Mr. Weigall is one of the best living authorities on Upper Egypt,” said

the _Athenæum_, “and his delightful books are justly admired.” “He is a

scholar,” said the _Times_, “deeply versed in Egyptian archæology and

history and himself a partner in many discoveries.... He is an idealist

gifted with insight and sympathy.” The _Observer_ described him as “a

scholar who has let learning quicken and not dull his wits”; and the

_Pall Mall Gazette_ spoke of him as “the key to one of the richest

storehouses the world contains.” “He makes the sights, the sounds, the

very air of the Egyptian deserts visit the senses of his readers with a

keenness that is almost painful,” wrote the _Westminster Gazette_. “He

is the scholar-sportsman,” said the _Times_ again, “gifted with a fine

sensitiveness to the mystery and romance of ancient things.”

In 1914, after receiving high honours from various governments, and when

his administrative work and his writings had brought him to a position

of eminence, he suffered a breakdown in health, due to his exertions in

Egypt; and he was obliged to resign and to return to England. Here,

during his convalescence, he occupied his spare time by painting designs

for stage scenery; and from 1915 to 1918 many of the leading

spectacular productions at the chief London theatres owed their success

to his art.

As in the case of his historical writings, so in that of this hobby, his

work was received with unanimous praise. We read of a ballet of his at

the Alhambra as being “one of the most beautiful stage pictures ever

seen”; of a scene at the Palace Theatre “so exquisite as to make a

success of the production without anything else” (_Tatler_); of another

scene for which “there is no measure of praise too high” (_Sunday

Times_); and so on throughout the entire Press.

Mr. Weigall, however, having deeply influenced the whole art of stage

decoration in this country by introducing bold simplicity of design and

pure colour and light effects, did not long continue to spend his time

in this manner; and with the return of health he resumed his

archæological work and set himself to the long task of preparing

material for works on Egyptian art and history, and on comparative

ethics, which are not yet completed. Meanwhile, and perhaps to some

extent as a means of livelihood, he wrote three novels: _Madeline of the

Desert_ (1920), _The Dweller in the Desert_ (1921), entitled _Burning

Sands_ in the United States, and _Bedouin Love_ (1922). These books,

again hailed with high tributes from the Press, have attained great

popularity and have passed through many editions. From time to time he

also wrote the lyrics for songs which have obtained wide appreciation,

and he was the author of various little sketches, both dramatic and

comic, which have been seen upon the London stage.

For some months in 1921 he came before the public in another guise. An

article of his in the _Nineteenth Century_, in which he pointed out the

influence being exercised by the Kinematograph on our national life,

attracted the attention of the late Lord Northcliffe, who invited Mr.

Weigall to write a long series of articles in the _Daily Mail_ on the

subject. This led to an intensive study of the whole subject of “films,”

and the articles, of a fervently patriotic character, had the effect of

removing some unpleasant features from the motion-picture theatres,

while the general improvement in the tone of this form of entertainment

is largely due to his influence.

At the time of writing (January, 1923) Mr. Weigall is once more in

Egypt, and further archæological works from his pen may be expected. In

November, 1922, the present Publisher re-issued, and within a few weeks

sold out, a revised (fourth) edition of _The Life and Times of

Akhnaton_, perhaps the author’s most popular historical work; and it is

hoped that this new volume will be found to be of equal interest and

entertainment. The essays published herein were written between 1907 and

the present year. Some of them appeared as part of a book many years

ago; others were printed in various leading journals; and yet others

have been specially written for this volume. In this regard the

Publisher’s thanks are due to the editors of the _Nineteenth Century_,

the _Fortnightly Review_, the _Cornhill Magazine_, _Blackwood’s

Magazine_, the _New Statesman_, the _Century Magazine_, _Putnam’s

Magazine_, and the _Quarterly Review_.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I.--EGYPTOLOGY IN THE OPEN 3

II.--THE NECESSITY OF ARCHÆOLOGY TO THE GAIETY

OF THE WORLD 26

III.--THE MISFORTUNES OF WENAMON 46

IV.--THE PRESERVATION OF ANTIQUITIES 69

V.--THE MORALITY OF EXCAVATION 84

VI.--THE TEMPERAMENT OF THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS 109

VII.--EXCAVATIONS IN EGYPT 136

VIII.--THE TOMB OF TIY AND AKHNATON 153

IX.--THE TOMB OF HOREMHEB 174

X.--LOWER NUBIA AND THE GREAT RESERVOIR 198

XI.--A NUBIAN HIGHWAY 216

XII.--THE ALABASTER QUARRIES IN THE WADY ASSIOUT 235

XIII.--A RIDE TO WADY SALAMÛNI 245

XIV.--THE CHILDREN OF EGYPT 262

XV.--AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN POEM 277

XVI.--THE STORY OF THE SHIPWRECKED SAILOR 283

XVII.--THEBAN THIEVES 304

XVIII.--THE ERROR OF POMPOUS HISTORY 328

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING

PAGE

ARTHUR WEIGALL, 1922 _Frontispiece_

THE AUTHOR STANDING UPON THE CLIFFS BETWEEN THE

TEMPLE OF DER EL BAHRI AND THE VALLEY OF THE

TOMBS OF THE KINGS 16

AN EGYPTIAN PRIEST OR RELIGIOUS OFFICIAL 54

(From a wooden statuette of about B.C. 1800: now in Cairo)

A HUMAN-FACED LION, PROBABLY DATING FROM THE

REIGN OF PHARAOH AMENEMES III., B.C. 1825 74

Now in Cairo.

THE MUMMY OF PRINCE YUAA 94

(The photograph was taken by the Author on the day of

its discovery. The mummy is now in the Cairo Museum)

EXCAVATING THE OSIREION AT ABYDOS. A CHAIN OF BOYS

HANDING UP BASKETS OF SAND TO THE SURFACE 144

(Photograph by the Author)

THE ENTRANCE OF THE TOMB OF QUEEN TIY, WITH A

NATIVE POLICEMAN GUARDING IT. THE LARGE TOMB OF

RAMESES X. IS TO THE LEFT 154

BUST OF AKHNATON FOUND AT TELL EL AMARNA, AND NOW

IN BERLIN 164

A STATUE OF TUTANKHAMON, THE PHARAOH WHOSE TOMB

WAS DISCOVERED BY LORD CARNARVON IN 1922 184

Now in Cairo.

THE ENTRANCE OF THE TOMB OF HOREMHEB IN THE

VALLEY OF THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 192

THE NILE AT PHILÆ, LOOKING NORTH 212

THE NILE AT ASWAN. ON THE HILLS TO THE LEFT IS THE

HIGHROAD TO NUBIA 222

TWO VIEWS IN THE WADY SALAMÛNI, EARLY MORNING 252

MODERN EGYPTIAN PEASANTS BESIDE A WATER-WHEEL 262

THE PHARAOH RAMESES II., B.C. 1292-1225 292

(From his statue now at Turin)

GOLD CUPS AND ARMLET OF ABOUT B.C. 1000, FOUND

ACCIDENTALLY BY A NATIVE IN A MOUND BY A ROADSIDE

IN LOWER EGYPT 320

Now in Cairo Museum.

The Glory of the Pharaohs

CHAPTER I

EGYPTOLOGY IN THE OPEN

In this first chapter I propose to extol the Egyptologist who works

abroad in the field, in contrast to him who studies at home in the

museum; for, in reading over the papers collected into this volume, I

see that there is a sort of _motif_ which runs through them all, linking

them together, namely that the archæology of Egypt, to be properly

appreciated, must be studied, so to speak, at the lips of the Sphinx

itself.

It is an unfortunate fact that the archæologist is generally considered

to be a kind of rag-and-bone man; one who, sitting all his life in a

dusty room, shuns the touch of the wind and takes no pleasure in the

vanities under the sun. Actually, this is not so very often a true

description of him. The ease with which long journeys are now

undertaken, the immunity from insult or peril which the traveller

usually enjoys, have made it possible for the archæologist to seek his

information at its source in almost all the countries of the world; and

he is not obliged, as was his grandfather, to take it at second-hand

from the volumes of mediæval scholars. Moreover, the necessary

collections of books of reference are now to be found in very diverse

places; and thus it comes about that there are plenty of archæologists

who are able to leave their own museums and studies for limited periods.

And as regards his supposed untidy habits, the phase of cleanliness

which, like a purifying wind, descended suddenly upon the world in the

second half of the nineteenth century, has penetrated even to libraries

and museums, removing every speck of dust therefrom. The archæologist,

when engaged in the sedentary side of his profession, lives nowadays in

an atmosphere charged with the odours of furniture-polish and

monkey-brand. A place less dusty than the Victoria and Albert Museum in

London, or than the Metropolitan Museum in New York, could not easily be

imagined. The disgusting antiquarian of a past generation, with his

matted locks and stained clothing, could but be ill at ease in such

surroundings, and could claim no brotherhood with the majority of the

present-day archæologists. Cobwebs are now taboo; and the misguided old

man who dwelt amongst them is seldom to be found outside of caricature,

save in the more remote corners of the earth.

The archæologist in these days, then, is not often confined permanently

to his museum, though in many cases he remains there as much as

possible; and still less often is he a person of objectionable

appearance. The science is generally represented by two classes of

scholar; the man who sits in the museum or library for the greater part

of his life, and lives as though he would be worthy of the furniture

polish, and the man who works in the field for a part of the year and

there lives as though he regarded the clean airs of heaven in even

higher estimation. Thus, in arguing the case for the field-worker, as I

propose here to do, there is no longer the easy target of the dusty

antiquarian at which to hurl the javelin. One cannot merely urge a musty

individual to come out into the open air. That would make an easy

argument. One has to take aim at the less vulnerable person of the

scholar who chooses to spend the greater part of his time in a smart

gallery of exhibits or in a well-ordered and spotless library, and whose

only fault is that he is too fond of those places. One may no longer

tease him about his dusty surroundings; but I think it is possible to

accuse him of setting a very bad example by his affection for home

comforts, and of causing indirectly no end of mischief. It is a fact

that there are many Greek scholars who are so accustomed to read their

texts in printed books that they could not make head nor tail of an

original document written in a cursive Greek hand; and there are not a

few students of Egyptian archæology who do not know the conditions and

phenomena of the country sufficiently to prevent the occurrence of

occasional glaring errors in the exposition of their theories.

There are three main arguments which may be set forward to induce

Egyptologists to go as often as possible to Egypt, and to urge their

students to do so, instead of educating the mind to the habit of working

at home.

Firstly, the study of archæology in the open helps to train up young men

in the path of health in which they should go. Work in the Egyptian

desert, for example, is one of the most healthy and inspiring pursuits

that could be imagined; and study in the shrines overlooking the Nile,

where, as at Gebel Silsileh, one has to dive into the cool river and

swim to the sun-scorched scene of one’s work, is surely more

invigorating than study in the atmosphere of the local museum. A gallop

up to the Tombs of the Kings puts a man in a readier mood for a

morning’s work than does a ride in a street-car or an omnibus through

crowded thoroughfares; and he will feel a keenness as he pulls out his

notebook that he can never have experienced in his western city. There

is, moreover, a certain amount of what is called “roughing it” to be

enjoyed by the archæologist in Egypt; and thus the body becomes

toughened and prepared for any necessary spurt of work. To rough it in

the open is the best medicine for tired heads, as it is the finest tonic

for brains in a normal condition.

In parenthesis an explanation must be given of what is meant here by

that much misunderstood condition of life which is generally known as

“roughing it.” A man who is accustomed to the services of two valets

will believe that he is roughing it when he is left to put the diamond

studs in his evening shirts with his own fingers; and a man who has

tramped the roads all his life will hardly consider that he is roughing

it when he is outlawed upon the unsheltered moors in late autumn. The

degree of hardship to which I refer lies between these two extremes. The

science of Egyptology does not demand from its devotees a performance of

many extreme acts of discomfort; but, during the progress of active

work, it does not afford many opportunities for luxurious

self-indulgence, or for any slackness in the taking of exercise.

As a protest against the dilettante antiquarian (who is often as

objectionable a character as the unwashed scholar) there are certain

archæologists who wear the modern equivalent of a hair shirt, who walk

abroad with pebbles in their shoes, and who speak of sitting upon an

easy-chair as a moral set-back. The strained and posed life which such

_savants_ lead is not to be regarded as a rough one; for there is

constant luxury in the thought of their own toughness, and infinite

comfort in the sense of superiority which they permit themselves to

feel. It is not roughing it to feed from a packing-case when a table

adds insignificantly to the impedimenta of the camp; it is pretending to

rough it. It is not roughing it to eat canned food out of the can when a

plate might be used: it is either hypocrisy or slovenliness.

To rough it is to lead an exposed life under conditions precluding the

possibility of indulging in certain comforts which, in their place and

at the right time, are enjoyed and appreciated. A man may well be said

to rough it when he camps in the open, and dispenses with the luxuries

of civilisation; when he pours a jug of water over himself instead of

lying in ecstasy in an enamelled bath; eats a meal of two undefined

courses instead of one of five or six; twangs a banjo to the moon

instead of ravishing his ear with a sonata upon the grand piano; rolls

himself in a blanket instead of sitting over the library fire; turns in

at nine p.m. and rises ere the sun has topped the hills instead of

keeping late hours and lying abed; sleeps on the ground or upon a narrow

camp-bed (which occasionally collapses) instead of sprawling at his ease

in a four-poster.

A life of this kind cannot fail to be of benefit to the health; and,

after all, the work of a healthy man is likely to be of greater value

than that of one who is anæmic or out of condition. It is the first duty

of a scholar to give attention to his muscles, for he, more than other

men, has the opportunity to become enfeebled by indoor work. Few

students can give sufficient time to physical exercise; but in Egypt the

exercise is taken during the course of the work, and not an hour is

wasted. The muscles harden and the health is ensured without the

expending of a moment’s thought upon the subject.

Archæology is too often considered to be the pursuit of weak-chested

youths and eccentric old men; it is seldom regarded as a possible

vocation for normal persons of sound health and balanced mind. An

athletic and robust young man, clothed in the ordinary costume of a

gentleman, will tell a new acquaintance that he is an Egyptologist,

whereupon the latter will exclaim in surprise: “Not really?--you don’t

look like one.” A kind of mystery surrounds the science. The layman

supposes the antiquarian to be a very profound and erudite person, who

has pored over his books since a baby, and has shunned those games and

sports which generally make for a healthy constitution. The study of

Egyptology is thought to require a depth of knowledge that places its

students outside the limits of normal learning, and presupposes in them

an unhealthy amount of schooling. This, of course, is absurd.

Nobody would expect an engineer who built bridges and dams, or a great

military commander, to be a seedy individual with longish hair, pale

face, and weak eye-sight; and yet probably he has twice the brain

capacity of the average archæologist. It is because the life of the

antiquarian is, or is generally thought to be, unhealthy and sluggish

that he is so often regarded as a worm.

Some attempt should be made to rid the science of this forbidding

aspect; and for this end students ought to do their best to make it

possible for them to be regarded as ordinary, normal, healthy men. Let

them discourage the popular belief that they are prodigies, freaks of

mental expansion. Let them shun pedantry and the affectations of the

dons’ common-room as they would the plague. Let their first desire be to

show themselves good, useful, hardy, serviceable citizens, and they will

do much to remove the stigma from their profession. Let them be

acquainted with the feeling of a bat or racket in the hands, or a saddle

between the knees; let them know the rough path over the mountains, or

the diving-pool amongst the rocks, and their mentality will not be found

to suffer. A winter’s “roughing it” in the Theban necropolis or

elsewhere would do much to banish the desire for perpetual residence at

home in the west; and a season in Egypt would alter the point of view of

the student more considerably than he could imagine. Moreover, the

appearance of the scholar prancing about on his fiery steed (even though

it be but an Egyptian donkey) will help to dispel the current belief

that he is incapable of physical exertion; and his reddened face rising,

like the morning sun, above the rocks on some steep pathway over the

Theban hills will give the passer-by cause to alter his opinion of the

students of antiquity.

As a second argument a subject must be introduced which will be

distasteful to a large number of archæologists. I refer to the

narrow-minded policy of certain European and American museums, whose

desire it is at all costs to place Egyptian and other eastern

antiquities actually before the eyes of western students, in order that

they may have the comfort and entertainment of examining at home the

wonders of lands which they make no effort to visit. I have no

hesitation in saying that the craze for recklessly dragging away unique

monuments from Egypt to be exhibited in western museums for the

satisfaction of the untravelled man, is the most pernicious bit of folly

to be found in the whole broad realm of Egyptological misbehaviour.

A museum has three main justifications for its existence. In the first

place, like a home for lost dogs, it is a repository for stray objects.

No curator should endeavour to procure for his museum any antiquity

which could be safely exhibited on its original site and in its original

position. He should receive chiefly those stray objects which otherwise

would be lost to sight, or those which would be in danger of

destruction. He should make it his first endeavour not so much to obtain

objects direct from Egypt as to gather in those antiquities which are in

the possession of dealers or private persons who cannot be expected to

look after them with due care, or make them accessible to students.

In the second place, a museum is a storehouse for historical documents

such as papyri and ostraca, and in this respect it is simply to be

regarded as a kind of public library, capable of unlimited and perfectly

legitimate expansion. Such objects are not often found by robbers in the

tombs which they have violated, nor are they snatched from temples to

which they belong. They are usually discovered accidentally, and in a

manner which precludes any possibility of their actual position having

much significance. The immediate purchase, for example, by museum

agents of the Tell el Amarna tablets--the correspondence of a great

Pharaoh--which had been discovered by accident, and would perhaps have

been destroyed, was most wise.

In the third place, a museum is a permanent exhibition for the

instruction of the public, and for the enlightenment of students

desirous of obtaining comparative knowledge in any one branch of their

work, and for this purpose it should be well supplied not so much with

original antiquities as with casts, facsimiles, models, and

reproductions of all sorts.

To be a serviceable exhibition both for the student and the public a

museum does not need to possess only original antiquities. On the

contrary, as a repository for stray objects, a museum is not to be

expected to have a complete series of original antiquities in any class,

nor is it the business of the curator to attempt to fill up the gaps

without thought of the consequences. To do so is to encourage the

straying of other objects. The curator so often labours under the

delusion that it is his first business to collect together by fair means

or foul as large a number as possible of valuable masterpieces. In

reality that is a very secondary matter. His first business, if he be an

Egyptologist, is to see that Egyptian masterpieces remain _in situ_ so

far as is practicable; and his next is to save what has irrevocably

strayed from straying further. If the result of this policy be a poor

collection, then he must devote so much the more time and money to

obtaining facsimiles and reproductions.

But the curator generally has the insatiable appetite of the collector.

The authorities of one museum bid vigorously against those of another at

the auction which constantly goes on in the shops of the dealers in

antiquities. They pay huge prices for original statues, reliefs, or

sarcophagi; prices which would procure for them the finest series of

casts or facsimiles or would give them valuable additions to their

legitimate collection of papyri. And what is it all for? It is certainly

not for the benefit of the general public. It is almost solely for the

benefit of the student and scholar who cannot, or will not, go to Egypt.

Soon it comes to be the curator’s pride to observe that _savants_ are

hastening to his museum to make their studies. His civic conceit is

tickled by the spectacle of Egyptologists travelling long distances to

take notes in his metropolitan museum.

All this is as wrong-headed as it can be. While he is filling his museum

he does not seem to understand that he is denuding every necropolis in

Egypt. I will give one or two instances of the destruction wrought by

western museums. I take them at random from my memory.

In the year 1900 the then Inspector-General of Antiquities in Upper

Egypt discovered a tomb at Thebes in which there was a beautiful relief

sculptured on one of the walls, representing Queen Tiy. This he

photographed, and the tomb was once more buried. In 1908 I chanced upon

this monument, and proposed to open it up as a show place for visitors;

but alas!--the relief of the queen had disappeared, and only a gaping

hole in the wall remained. It appears that robbers had entered the tomb

at about the time of the change of inspectors; and, realising that this

relief would make a valuable exhibit for some western museum, they had

cut out of the wall as much as they could conveniently carry

away--namely, the head and upper part of the figure of Tiy. The

hieroglyphic inscription which was sculptured near the head was

carefully erased, in case it should contain some reference to the name

of the tomb from which they were taking the fragment; and over the face

some false inscriptions were scribbled in Greek characters, so as to

give the stone an unrecognisable appearance. In this condition it was

conveyed to a dealer’s shop, and it now forms one of the exhibits in the

Royal Museum at Brussels.

In the same museum, and in others also, there are fragments of beautiful

sculpture hacked out of the walls of the famous tomb of Khaemhet at

Thebes. In the British Museum there are large pieces of wall-paintings

broken out of Theban tombs. The famous inscription in the tomb of Anena

at Thebes, which was one of the most important texts of the early

Eighteenth Dynasty, was smashed to pieces several years ago to be sold

in small sections to museums; and a certain scholar was instrumental in

purchasing back for us eleven of the fragments, which have now been

replaced in the tomb, and with certain fragments in Europe, form the

sole remnant of the once imposing stela.

One of the most important scenes out of the famous reliefs of the

Expedition to Pount, at Dêr el Bahri, found its way into the hands of

the dealers, and was ultimately purchased by the museum in Cairo. The

beautiful and important reliefs which decorated the tomb of Horemheb at

Sakkâra, hacked out of the walls by robbers, are now exhibited in six

different museums; London, Leyden, Vienna, Bologna, Alexandria, and

Cairo. Of the two hundred tombs of the nobles now to be seen at Thebes,

I cannot, at the moment, recall a single one which had not suffered in

this manner at some time previous to the organisation of the present

strict supervision which was instituted by Mr. Carter and myself.

The curators of western museums will argue that had they not purchased

these fragments they would have fallen into the hands of less desirable

owners. This is quite true, and, indeed, it forms the nearest approach

to justification that can be discovered. Nevertheless, it has to be

remembered that this purchasing of antiquities is the best stimulus to

the robber, who is well aware that a market is always to be found for

his stolen goods. It may seem difficult to censure the purchaser, for

certainly the fragments were “stray” when the bargain was struck, and it

is the business of the curator to collect stray antiquities. But why

were they stray? Why were they ever cut from the walls of the Egyptian

monuments? Assuredly because the robbers knew that museums would

purchase them. If there had been no demand there would have been no

supply.

To ask the curators to change their policy, and to purchase only those

objects which are legitimately on sale, would, of course, be as futile

as to ask the nations to disarm. The rivalry between museum and museum

would alone prevent a cessation of this indiscriminate traffic. I can

see only one way in which a more sane and moral attitude can be

introduced, and that is by the development of the habit of visiting

Egypt and of working upon archæological subjects in the shadow of the

actual monuments. Only the person who is familiar with Egypt can know

the cost of supplying the stay-at-home scholar with exhibits for his

museums. Only one who has resided in Egypt can understand the fact that

Egypt itself is the real place for Egyptian monuments. He alone can

appreciate the work of the Egyptian Government in preserving the remains

of ancient days.

The resident in Egypt, interested in archæology, comes to look with a

kind of horror upon museums, and to feel extraordinary hostility to what

may be called the museum spirit. He sees with his own eyes the

half-destroyed tombs, which to the museum curator are things far off and

not visualised. While the curator is blandly saying to his visitor:

“See, I will now show you a beautiful fragment of sculpture from a

distant and little-known Theban tomb,” the white resident in Egypt, with

black murder in his heart, is saying: “See, I will show you a beautiful

tomb of which the best part of one wall is utterly destroyed that a

fragment might be hacked out for a distant and little-known European or

American museum.”

To a resident in Europe, Egypt seems to be a strange and barbaric land,

far, far away beyond the hills and seas; and her monuments are thought

to be at the mercy of wild Bedouin Arabs. In the less recent travel

books there is not a published drawing of a temple in the Nile Valley

but has its complement of Arab figures grouped in picturesque attitudes.

Here a fire is being lit at the base of a column, and the black smoke

curls upwards to destroy the paintings thereon; here a group of children

sport upon the lap of a colossal statue; and here an Arab tethers his

camel at the steps of the high altar. It is felt, thus, that the objects

exhibited in European museums have been _rescued_ from Egypt and

recovered from a distant land. This is not so. They have been snatched

from Egypt and lost to the country of their origin.

He who is well acquainted with Egypt knows that hundreds of watchmen,

and a small army of inspectors, engineers, draughtsmen, surveyors, and

other officials now guard these monuments, that strong iron gates bar

the doorways against unauthorised visitors, that hourly patrols pass

from monument to monument, and that any damage done is punished by long

terms of imprisonment; he knows that the Egyptian Government spends

hundreds of thousands of pounds upon safeguarding the ancient remains;

he is aware that the organisation of the Department of Antiquities is an

extremely important branch of the Ministry of Public Works. He has seen

the temples swept and garnished, the tombs lit by electric light and the

sanctuaries carefully rebuilt. He has spun out to the Pyramids in the

electric tramcar or in a taxi-cab; has strolled in evening dress through

the halls of Karnak, after dinner at the hotel; and has rung up the

Theban Necropolis on the telephone.

A few seasons’ residence in Egypt shifts the point of view in a

startling manner. No longer is the country either distant or insecure;

and, realising this, the student becomes more balanced, and he sees both

sides of the question with equal clearness. The archæologist may

complain that it is too expensive a matter to travel to Egypt. But why,

then, are not the expenses of such a journey met by the various museums?

Quite a small sum will pay for a student’s winter in Egypt and his

journey to and from that country. Such a sum is given readily enough for

the purchase of an antiquity; but surely right-minded students are a

better investment than wrongly-acquired antiquities.

It must be now pointed out, as a third argument,

[Illustration: The author standing upon the cliffs between the Temple of

Dêr el Bahri and the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings]

that an Egyptologist cannot study his subject properly unless he be

thoroughly familiar with Egypt and modern Egyptians.

A student who is accustomed to sit at home, working in his library or

museum, and who has never resided in Egypt, or has but travelled for a

short time in that country, may do extremely useful work in one way or

another, but that work will not be faultless. It will be, as it were,

lop-sided; it will be coloured with hues of the west, unknown to the

land of the Pharaohs and antithetical thereto. A London architect may

design an apparently charming villa for a client in Jerusalem, but

unless he know by actual and prolonged experience the exigencies of the

climate of Palestine, he will be liable to make a sad mess of his job.

By bitter experience the military commanders learnt in the late war that

a plan of campaign prepared at home was of little use to them. The

cricketer may play a very good game upon the home ground, but upon a

foreign pitch the first straight ball will send his bails flying into

the clear blue sky.

An archæologist who attempts to record the material relating to the

manners and customs of the ancient Egyptians cannot complete his task,

or even assure himself of the accuracy of his statements, unless he has

studied the modern customs and made himself acquainted with the

permanent conditions of the country. The modern Egyptians are the same

people as those who bowed the knee to Pharaoh, and many of their customs

still survive. A student can no more hope to understand the story of

Pharaonic times without an acquaintance with Egypt as she now is than a

modern statesman can hope to understand his own times solely from a

study of the past.

Nothing is more paralysing to a student of archæology than continuous

book-work. A collection of hard facts is an extremely beneficial mental

exercise, but the deductions drawn from such a collection should be

regarded as an integral part of the work. The road-maker must also walk

upon his road to the land whither it leads him; the ship-builder must

ride the seas in his vessel, though they be uncharted and unfathomed.

Too often the professor will set his students to a compilation which

leads them no farther than the final fair copy. They will be asked to

make for him, with infinite labour, a list of the High Priests of Amon;

but unless he has encouraged them to put such life into those figures

that each one shall seem to step from the page to confront his recorder,

unless the name of each shall call to mind the very scenes amidst which

he worshipped, then is the work uninspired and deadening to the student.

A catalogue of ancient scarabs is required, let us suppose, and the

students are set to work upon it. They examine hundreds of specimens,

they record the variations in design, they note the differences in the

glaze or material. But can they picture the man who wore the

scarab?--can they reconstruct in their minds the scene in the workshop

wherein the scarab was made?--can they hear the song of the workmen or

their laughter when the overseer was not nigh? In a word, does the

scarab mean history to them, the history of a period, of a dynasty, of a

craft? Assuredly not, unless the students know Egypt and the Egyptians,

have heard their songs and their laughter, have watched their modern

arts and crafts. Only then are they in a position to reconstruct the

picture.

The late Theodore Roosevelt, in his Romanes lecture at Oxford, gave it

as his opinion that the industrious collector of facts occupied an

honourable but not an exalted position; and he added that the merely

scientific historian must rest content with the honour, substantial, but

not of the highest type, that belongs to him who gathers material which

some time some master shall arise to use. Now every student should aim

to be a master, to _use_ the material which he has so laboriously

collected; and though at the beginning of his career, and indeed

throughout his life, the gathering of material is a most important part

of his work, he should never compile solely for the sake of compilation,

unless he be content to serve simply as a clerk of archæology.

An archæologist must be a historian. He must conjure up the past; he

must play the Witch of Endor. His lists and indices, his catalogues and

note-books, must be but the spells which he uses to invoke the dead. The

spells have no potency until they are pronounced: the lists of Kings of

Egypt have no more than an accidental value until they call before the

curtain of the mind those monarchs themselves. It is the business of the

archæologist to wake the dreaming dead: not to send the living to sleep.

It is his business to make the stones tell their tale: not to petrify

the listener. It is his business to put motion and commotion into the

past that the present may see and hear: not to pin it down,

spatchcocked, like a dead thing. In a word, the archæologist must be in

command of that faculty which is known as the historic imagination,

without which Dean Stanley was of opinion that the story of the past

could not be told. “Trust Nature,” said Dryden. “Do not labour to be

dull!”

But how can that imagination be at once exerted and controlled as it

needs must be, unless the archæologist be so well acquainted with the

conditions of the country about which he writes that his pictures of it

can be said to be accurate? The student must allow himself to be

saturated by the very waters of the Nile before he can permit himself to

write of Egypt. He must know the modern Egyptians before he can

construct his model of Pharaoh and his court.

When the mummy of Akhnaton was discovered and was proved to be that of a

man of only thirty years of age, many persons doubted the identification

on the grounds that the king was known to have been married at the time

when he came to the throne, seventeen years before his death, and it was

freely stated that a marriage at the age of eleven or twelve was

impossible and out of the question. Thus it actually remained for the

present writer to point out that the fact of the king’s death occurring

seventeen years after his marriage practically fixed his age at his

decease at not much above twenty-nine years, so unlikely was it that his

marriage would have been delayed beyond his twelfth year. Those who

doubted the identification on such grounds were showing all too clearly

that the manners and customs of the Egyptians of the nineteenth and

twentieth centuries, so many of which have come down intact from olden

times, were unknown to them.

Here we come to the root of the trouble. The Egyptologist who has not

resided for some time in Egypt, is inclined to allow his ideas regarding

the ancient customs of the land to be influenced by his

unconsciously-acquired knowledge of the habits of the west. But is he

blind that he sees not the great gulf fixed between the ways of the

east and those of his accustomed west? It is of no value to science to

record the life of Thutmosis III with Napoleon as our model for it, nor

to describe the daily life of the Pharaoh with the person of an English

king before our mind’s eye. Our western experience will not give us

material for the imagination to work upon in dealing with Egypt. The

setting for our Pharaonic pictures must be derived from Egypt alone; and

no Egyptologist’s work that is more than a simple compilation is of

value unless the sunlight and the sandy glare of Egypt have burnt into

his eyes, and have been reflected on to the pages under his pen.

The archæologist must possess the historic imagination, but it must be

confined to its proper channels. It is impossible to exert this

imagination without, as a consequence, a figure rising up before the

mind partially furnished with the details of a personality and fully

endowed with the broad character of an individual. The first lesson,

thus, which we must learn is that of allowing no incongruity to appear

in our figures. In ancient history there can seldom be sufficient data

at the Egyptologist’s disposal with which to build up a complete figure;

and his puppets must come upon the stage sadly deficient, as it were, in

arms, legs, and apparel suitable to them, unless he know from an

experience of modern Egyptians how to restore them and to clothe them in

good taste. The substance upon which the imagination works must be no

less than a collective knowledge of the people of the nation in

question. Rameses must be constructed from an acquaintance with many a

Pasha of modern Egypt, and his Chief Butler must reflect the known

characteristics of a hundred Beys and Effendis. Without such “padding”

the figures will remain but names, and with names Egyptology is already

over-stocked.

It is remarkable to notice how little is known regarding the great

personalities in history. Taking three characters at random: we know

extremely little that is authentic regarding King Arthur; our knowledge

of the actual history of Boadicea is extremely meagre; and the precise

historian would have to dismiss Pontius Pilate in a few paragraphs. But

let the archæologist know so well the manners and customs of the period

with which he is dealing that he will not, like the author of the

stories of the Holy Grail, dress Arthur in the armour of the thirteenth

century, nor fill the mind of Pilate with the thoughts of a modern

Colonial Governor; let him be so well trained in scientific cautiousness

that he will not give unquestioned credence to the legends of the past;

let him have sufficient knowledge of the nation to which his hero or

heroine belonged to be able to fill up the lacunæ with a kind

of collective appreciation and estimate of the national

characteristics--and I do not doubt that his interpretations will hold

good till the end of all history.

The Egyptologist to whom Egypt is not a living reality is handicapped in

his labours more unfairly than is realised by him. Avoid Egypt, and

though your brains be of vast capacity, though your eyes be never raised

from your books, you will yet remain in many ways an ignoramus, liable

to be corrected by the merest tourist in the Nile valley. But come with

me to a Theban garden that I know, where, on some still evening, the

dark palms are reflected in the placid Nile, and the acacias are

mellowed by the last light of the sunset; where, in leafy bowers, the

grapes cluster overhead, and the fig-tree is burdened with fruit. Beyond

the broad sheet of the river rise those unchanging hills which encompass

the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings; and at their foot, dimly seen in

the evening haze, sit the twin colossi, as they have sat since the days

of Amenophis the Magnificent. The stars begin to be seen through the

leaves now that the daylight dies, and presently the Milky Way becomes

apparent, stretching across the vault of the night, as when it was

believed to be the Nile of the Heavens.

The owls hoot to one another through the garden; and at the edge of the

alabaster tank wherein the dusk is mirrored, a frog croaks unseen amidst

the lilies. Even so croaked he on this very ground in those days when,

typifying eternity, he seemed to utter the endless refrain, “I am the

resurrection, I am the resurrection,” into the ears of men and maidens

beneath these self-same stars.

And now a boat floats past, on its way to Karnak, silhouetted against

the last-left light of the sky. There is music and song on board. The

sound of the pipes is carried over the water and pulses to the ears,

inflaming the imagination with the sorcery of its cadences and stirring

the blood by its bold rhythm. The gentle breeze brings the scent of many

flowers to the nostrils, and with these come drifting thoughts and

undefined fancies, so that presently the busy considerations of the day

are lulled and forgotten. The twilight seems to cloak the extent of the

years, and in the gathering darkness the procession of the centuries is

hidden. Yesterday and to-day are mingled together, and there is nothing

to distinguish to the eye the one age from the other. An immortal,

brought suddenly to the garden at this hour, could not say from direct

observation whether he had descended from the clouds into the twentieth

century before or the twentieth century after Christ; and the sound of

the festal pipes in the passing boat would but serve to confuse him the

more.

In such a garden as this the student will learn more Egyptology than he

could assimilate in many an hour’s study at home; for here his five

senses play the student and Egypt herself is his teacher. While he may

read in his books how this Pharaoh or that feasted o’ nights in his

palace beside the river, here, not in fallible imagination but in actual

fact, he may see Nilus and the Lybian desert to which the royal eyes

were turned, may smell the very perfume of the palace garden, and may

hearken to the self-same sounds that lulled a king to sleep in

Hundred-gated Thebes.

Not in the west, but only by the waters of the Nile will he learn how

best to be an historian of ancient Egypt, and in what manner to make his

studies of interest, as well as of technical value, to his readers, for

he will here discover the great secret of his profession. Suddenly the

veil will be lifted from his understanding, and he will become aware

that Past and Present are so indissoluble as to be incapable of separate

interpretation or single study. He will learn that there is no such

thing as a distinct Past or a defined Present. “Yesterday this day’s

madness did prepare,” and the affairs of bygone times must be

interpreted in the light of recent events. The Past is alive to-day and

all the deeds of man in all the ages are living at this hour in

offspring. There is no real death. The earthly grave will not hide, nor

the mountain tomb imprison, the actions of the men of old Egypt, so

consequent and fruitful are all human affairs. This is the knowledge

which will make the Egyptologist’s work of lasting value; and nowhere

else save in Egypt can he acquire it. This, indeed, for him is the

secret of the Sphinx; and only at the lips of the Sphinx itself can he

learn it.

The glory of the Pharaohs · 第 1 / 18 章