Make a 2-1/2-in. circle in the centre of the 10-in. square piece. Drive
this up 1/2 in. above the level by placing it over a 2-1/2-in. hole in
a wooden block or a swage block. If this piece of iron is placed
over a hole any diameter and struck on the opposite side with the peen
of the hammer it will sink into the hole and take the rounding shape.
This can be done while the metal is cold. With a pair of dividers find
the centre of boss and describe a faint circle 1 in. less than the
diameter of the base. Tangent to those lines draw lines along the edge
of the base. The dotted lines on the sketch show how the base should be
cut out. The stock left on the corners forms the feet when the sides of
the base are bent into shape. Cut out the piece of metal as described
and bend the sides over 1/2 in. The corners must be heated red hot
and formed separately. This is best done over the heel of the anvil.
After placing the heated corners on the heel of the anvil drive quickly
with a light hammer first on one side and then on the other, forming
and upsetting the metal into shape at the same time. The flare on the
bottom of the feet is worked in after the corners and shaped as shown
in the sketch. Repeat this on the four corners. Now flare out the feet
on the horn of the anvil. Out of the centre of the boss cut a circle a
little less than the base of the post, to receive the post.
_Post:_ Take a 10 × 5 in. piece and bend it around a piece of round
iron so that the two edges will fit close together. The inside and
outside of these are filed for brazing. (See Brazing.) This post is now
bound with good strong wire to keep the joint close. Cover with flux,
place in the fire and add the smelter to the joint on the inside of the
pipe. When the smelter runs into the joint take it out of the fire and
allow it to cool in the air. The joint is now filed up on the outside
and if properly brazed should show only a very fine line made by the
smelter. The upper part of the post is now swelled out as shown in the
sketch, by heating at a low heat and spreading the metal out all around
the end.
A cap is placed on top of the post to hold the arms that support the
shade and to hold, too, the electric light bulb, or gas pipe, or oil
well, according to the light to be used. The cap is made by rounding
the end of a 1-in. bar to 1/2 in. in diameter, 2 ins. long. The other
end is cut off about 1/2 in. to allow for the flattening down to make
the cap.
Place the 1/2-in. stem into a heading tool and flatten this bar down
quite thin. Spread it out so that the edges can be turned over at right
angles to form a cap to fit the top of the post. This cap can be either
brazed or riveted on to the post. Either will look well. If used for
gas or electric light a hole should be drilled through the centre of
the cap and through the post to receive the wire. If used for gas the
lower side can be tapered out so that 1/8-in. gas pipe can be screwed
in. Now cut a thread on the top of the post to fit an electric light
socket. The same thread acts as a holder for the bracket of the shade
holder. Place the cap on the post, rivet and braze. File the lower part
of the post and the inside of the hole on the base perfectly clean. The
bottom of the post should be filed a little tapering so it will fit
into the base of the hole tight. Wire it in for brazing so that the
post will stand perpendicular to the base. Carry your binding wires
from the top of the post to the four corners of the base, using heavy
wire for this work of binding. Cover the joint with flux. Place the
centre on the fire and put the brazing material on the joint around
the post. With a slow heat, heat till the smelter runs into the joint.
Close off the blast, let it remain in the fire until cold, then remove
it.
_Shade holder:_ This is made of a piece of 1 × 1/8 × 10 in. soft steel.
Fuller down 3 ins. from the end to 3/8 × 1/8 in. Draw this out any
length. Split the other end to within 1-1/8 ins. of this fuller mark.
Throw these arms out and draw each down the same size as the other, 1/8
× 3/8 in. Place the crotch on a small bottom fuller and with the top
fuller spread each arm out so that it will measure an equal distance
from the other arms. At the same time this will shape the centre. Drive
the end out tapering 3/8 in. wide at the base, tapering to 1/8 in.
square at the ends. The length of the arms depends upon the size of the
shade. Tip ends of the arms should be bent up 1/8 in. to hold the shade
in place. Drill a hole in the centre of the tripod and tap a thread in
the hole to fit the thread on the end of the cap, so that this will
screw on. These arms can be bent down or up to suit the height of the
shade.
_Shade:_ The shade pattern is developed in the same way as the shade
described in the copper article on lamp shades. In this case, however,
each unit is cut out separately and riveted to the next; all put
together and filed; 1/8-in. soft iron rivets are used for riveting the
parts.
_Glass:_ The glass can be bought at any glazier's. Cathedral opalescent
glass is best. Place a piece of card-board on one of the units and mark
the outline of the opening. Cut about 3/8 in. larger than this outline.
This pattern taken to the glazier can be cut out from any kind of
glass, according to the size wanted.