[Illustration]
The handling of wrought iron when making ornamental work often brings
in, besides the usual smithing operations, the processes of embossing,
impressing, engraving, etching, inlaying of copper or brass, grinding,
and polishing. Embossing is done by heating the piece and raising the
metal from the back into an iron above the surface.
Impressing is done by cutting an impression in an iron block and
driving the metal into it.
Engraving consists of putting the design upon the iron with a diamond
point chisel or any sharp tool, with the aid of a hammer. When the
design is cut out by means of acid the process is called etching. It
is done in this way: The surface to be etched is first covered with a
layer of wax. The design to be left is scratched through the wax into
the metal by using a very sharp tool. This lays bare the surface of the
metal to be etched. The acid or etching fluid is then applied. When
sufficiently etched the acid is removed from the surface of the metal
by means of turpentine. This stops the action of the acid immediately.
Inlaying is hammering one metal into the surface of another. It is done
by cutting a groove in the surface of one metal and hammering the other
metal into this groove.
Impressing, engraving, etching, inlaying, etc., are used on fine pieces
of ornamental work, such as door knockers, drawer pulls, door handles,
sword blades, ornamental hinges, fire sets, etc., or on small pieces of
work such as initials or coats of arms, etc.
_Splitting of iron or soft steel:_ Splitting iron or soft steel is done
for many pieces of work. All solid rings, rings without welds, handles
for carrying ladles in foundries of all kinds are made in this way.
Most of our ornamental work, where we require two pieces of iron
running from a stem in opposite directions, calls for this process.
[Illustration: Copyright, 1911, by Underwood & Underwood, N. Y.
Splitting and Shaping the Iron in the Making of Andirons.]
We are now going to make a pair of andirons. The process of splitting
iron comes in with this problem.
[Illustration]
_Pair of andirons:_ It is always best to make a sketch of the large
pieces of ornamental work to be made, in order that they may have the
proper proportion to their setting and bear the right relation to their
surroundings. For instance, a grill made from either wrought iron or
soft steel must fit the opening when finished, iron gates must fit
space for which they are intended, yet not be too tall or too short to
be in good proportion to their setting, etc. Andirons must fit into
the fireplace and occupy the space so as to give the eye a sense of
fitness and proportion to the whole hearth. This sketch shows a pair of
andirons that can be made suitable for any size hearth. No inlaying,
etching, etc., is used upon this work, the only decoration being the
hammer marks left by the peen of the hammer. Andirons are much used in
country homes where log fires are in use. They can be made of iron or
brass, and coal or wood may be used on a hearth fitted out with a pair.
_Stock:_ One piece soft steel, 1-1/2 × 1-1/2 × 20 ins. Two pieces, 7/8
in. square, 9 ins. long. Two pieces, 7/8 in. square, 14 ins. long. Two
pieces, 7/8 in. square, 20 ins. long. One piece 3/4-in. square iron.
One piece 1 × 1/4 × 6 ins. flat iron.
[Illustration: Bend in this way to form the legs]
_Directions:_ Take the 20-in. bar and split it 10 ins. To do this rub
a piece of chalk on the two faces of the bar. This makes clear any
marking put on the surface. With the square mark off 10 ins. from one
end. Now with a pair of dividers set at 3/4 in. run along the bar with
one leg of the dividers on the outer edge to the 10-in. mark. Do this
on both faces. Now mark on this centre line with a cold chisel. Put
the bar into the fire and heat the end of it. Take it out when red
hot and put it on the anvil. The marks made by the cold chisel will
show plainly. With the hot chisel cut along the lines made by the cold
chisel, cutting from both sides of the piece until the bar is divided
into two equal parts. This will require a number of heatings to do. The
last inch should be cut from the top down. To cut this, up-end the bar
on the anvil or any solid base, placing the hot chisel in the crotch of
the piece and striking it with the sledge hammer. This cuts the last
inch down square with the axis of the bar. The sledge hammer work is
heavy and one requires a helper here. The bar is now divided into two
wings. Before shaping these two wings into the base for feet the upper
part of the bar should be drawn out according to the drawing and the
end rounded or squared as suits the taste. The wings are now shaped up
and form the two feet on the bar. (See drawing.)
[Illustration: Shape legs should be before bending]
_To shape the feet of the andiron:_ The drawing shows the shape and
length the legs should be. To do this heat the bar at the crotch, and
flatten both sides out almost straight. This prepares for shaping
according to the drawing. Measure off 3 ins. from the extreme end of
each leg and mark off with a centre-punch. The 3-in. lengths form the
feet. Taper the iron between the centre-punch mark and the crotch so
that when finished the leg should measure 1-1/2 × 5/8 in. close to the
crotch, and 1 × 1/2 in. at the centre-punch mark. Repeat this on the
other leg. Flatten out the feet so that they will measure 3-1/2 × 2-1/4
ins. These feet are slightly impressed. To do this place the feet over
a hollow iron block and force the metal down so that the under side is
raised up about 1/2 in. above the level of the foot. (See dotted lines
on the drawing of the feet.) Repeat on the other side.
The leg is now ready to be bent into shape. Heat up at the crotch and
then bend both legs back toward the top end at an angle of 60°. Heat
again and bend the legs forward, shaping them like the drawing.
_Back part of the andiron:_ The drawing shows a short upright piece
placed so as to prevent the logs rolling out in front. The 14-in. piece
is welded on to the upright, as shown in the drawing, and fastened on
to the andiron. The 20-in. piece is welded on to the andiron and forms
the leg on which the wood is placed. These pieces are welded upon short
uprights by what is called jump welds. (See description of jump welds.)
The end of the iron is bent on the anvil as square bends are always
made. (See description of square bends.) The end that fastens to the
andiron proper is also bent square, but tapered slightly to make a nice
fit. Fastening the frame to the andiron is done with a stud and bolt.
The stud is screwed into the andiron and into the frame as shown by
the dotted lines. A square headed bolt fastens the upper part, thus
preventing any twisting out of place. The only finish given to the
andirons is that left by the marking of this peen hammer. This leaves a
mottled surface, which gives an old look to the finished piece.
_Chain ring bolt:_ Ring bolt is made from a 3/4-in. square iron piece.
This is drawn down at one end until it is 1 in. long and 1/2 in. round.
A thread is cut on this end. Drill a hole through the centre of the
square head 3/8 in. in diameter.
[Illustration: Ring]
[Illustration: Ring bolt]
[Illustration: Andiron with riveted wood rest]
_Ring:_ Take the 1 × 1/4 × 6 in. piece of flat iron. Draw it out so
that it tapers toward each end. (See drawing.) On the extreme end of
each is a 1/4-in. pin 3/8 in. long. Bend ring into shape. The lower
centre of the ring has a knob. This knob is made out of a piece of
3/4-in. square iron pulled down 1/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. back
from the end. The fullered end makes the pin and should be cut long
enough to project through the ring 1/8 in. to allow for riveting. You
have sufficient stock to round up on the edge of the anvil into a ball
shape. Drill a hole in the centre of the ring and fit the pin on the
end of the knob into the hole in the ring. Rivet tight. The design
you see on the ring may be put on with a diamond pointed chisel. The
ring is now heated, opened out, and pushed into the hole made in the
ring bolt so that it swings easily into place. Two rings of course
should be made. The chain fastened from one ring to another is used as
a guard against fire. The chain rings are made out of 1/4-in. square
iron which is cut 10 ins. long. Then they are bent square and welded as
chain links are usually welded. Notice that the last two links show an
opening just wide enough to allow them to be slipped into the rings
of the andiron. This completes the set. The finish is made by the
indentations left by the peen of the hammer.
On page 369 is shown another pair of andirons. They are made in the
same way as the pair just described, splitting it down to form the
legs. The wood rests are riveted through the body of the piece, forming
a large rivet head in front to hold it in place and at the same time
adding to the decoration.