_Ice shaver:_ Ice shavers are useful as shavers, breakers and choppers
of ice. They are made out of a piece of low carbon steel for the blade
and a piece of 5/8-in. round iron for the handle.
[Illustration: Ice shaver]
_Directions:_ Take a piece of 1/2 × 6 × 4 ins., and cut along as shown
by the lines. When these two corners are cut out, point the centre
piece for a cleft weld. Slit the end of the rod, scarfing its points
thin, and slip this point into the crotch of the scarf, and weld with
borax. This now gives you a piece that looks like a shovel. On the
other end of the handle bend a ring about 4 ins. in diameter. Place the
flat end in the fire, heat it up, and taper this flat end down very
thin, about 1 in. long. With a file, file four teeth in the end, the
same shape as shown here. It is now ready for tempering. This is done
by heating all the teeth well back toward the handle red hot. Plunge
the whole thing into water to cool it off. Take it out and polish. Heat
a piece of large iron in the fire red hot. On this piece of metal place
the teeth of the pick. When the blue colour appears on the point and
cutting edges of the teeth, cool in water. It is now ready for use.
[Illustration]
_Grub hoe:_ The form and dimensions of this tool are given, also the
different steps in the process of forging.
_Stock:_ 1-1/4 × 3/4 × 5 in. steel.
_Directions:_ Mark off with a centre-punch the middle of the piece of
stock, and then mark off 1 in. from the middle in either direction.
Fuller, as shown in the sketch, on the first end, to a depth of 1 in.
Heat the piece and fuller the other end to a depth of 1/2 in. (A).
The centre lug is now 2 ins. long. To make this 2 ins. long it is
necessary that the fuller be placed on the piece on the outside of the
centre-punch marks. Draw out the two ends, as shown by the sketch, one
being directly opposite the other. Punch a hole with the eye punch in
the middle of this lug almost through on one side. Take the punch out,
turn the piece upside down, and finish punching the hole. The punch
used for doing this part of the work should be straight and tapered and
quite thin on the end. The problem is not to cut out a large piece but
rather to split the metal. It's only 3/4 in. wide and will not allow
for the cutting away of any material. A punch of this kind will heat up
on the end while driving, when it is apt to bend. To avoid this keep it
cold by dipping it into water from time to time. Place a little green
coal in the hole after you have started the punch in. This prevents its
sticking in the hole and it also prevents the end of the punch from
getting hot. A very deep, narrow slot can be punched successfully in
this way.
[Illustration]
The drift pin used to shape the eye upon should be made the size of the
finished hole--that is, 1-1/2 × 3/4 in. and 6 ins. long--oval-shaped,
and tapered on the small end to 3/8 × 1/4 in. This taper should be the
whole length of the drift pin. Drive the pin into the hole about half
way down. This widens the hole so that it can now be placed on the horn
of the anvil and fullered to the required thickness, which should be
1/8 in. on the extreme edge of the eye. Drive the drift pin again about
4 ins. or 5 ins. At the same time work the metal down on the outside.
Repeat this till the hole fits the drift pin. The pin is now driven in
through from the other side, thus making both outside openings of the
eye the same size. The hoe is now finished up as shown in the sketch
and ready for hardening and tempering.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
This is done in the same way as you did the chisel and the same temper
colour is used for both. Five pounds is considered about the right
weight for a hoe of this kind. The problem of working out the eye for
this is the same as for making the eyes of picks, hatchets, and tools
of similar design.