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Socket wrenches are useful for tightening nuts in places that are
difficult to reach. It is most convenient when many nuts of the same
size are used, as bolting shaft irons for vehicles, etc. Some are made
to fit an auger brace; some have solid handles with a cross bar, and
some have holes punched in the shanks to place the iron bars in while
twisting the nut on the bolt. This drawing shows a style of wrench in
general use. It can be made in two different ways. One is called the
welding method, the other is the solid method.
_Welding method:_ Cut a piece of metal 1/4 × 1 in. of Norway iron. The
length of this bar must be determined by the size of the nut it is to
be used for. Heat one end of the piece of iron and scarf it. Repeat on
the other end. Bend the piece into a collar or ring, weld the two ends
together, forming a cylinder about 1 in. deep--any diameter. Select a
piece of round iron for the shank, the size depending upon the size of
the socket. Upset one end of the round iron to fit the collar made.
[Illustration: Weld collar, then put stem in, and weld]
[Illustration]
Drive the shank into the collar about one half the depth of the collar,
place it in the fire, and at a welding heat weld the collar to the
shank. If the wrench is to be for a hexagonal nut, make a hexagonal
drift pin (a square one for a square nut), and drive the pin into the
collar. Place it all on a swage and round up with a top swage. Drive
the collar down until it takes the shape of the drift pin. To do this
successfully requires many heatings, and it can be done only while the
metal is hot enough to yield always under the hammer blows. Should the
drift pin stick after the collar is driven into it, place the pin on
the anvil, giving it a slanting blow. This will loosen the pin and it
will come out easily.
The shank should now be driven down as shown in the sketch, and two
holes punched in at right angles to each other. These are holes to
place iron bars for turning the wrench. These holes can be made in two
ways: one, by forming lugs or bosses on the shank and punching holes in
each one, or, a sharp tapered round punch, flat and sharp on the end,
can be used to split the metal and force the sides out as the punch is
driven in.
If the cross bar is to be used in place of the holes, a cleft scarf
made in one end of the shank and a 3/8-in. bar of iron welded to this
about 4 or 6 inches long on either side of the shank will act as a
handle.
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_Open-sleeve or socket wrench:_ The wrench given here is for
practically the same use as the one just described. It is lighter
than the other. The opening is longer and allows the bolt to protrude
through the nut without forcing the wrench off. This wrench is made of
machine steel, and the size must be determined by the size of the nut.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Socket wrench for square nuts]
For a small wrench take a bar of 3/8 × 1-1/4 × 6 in. soft steel. Mark
off on the bar 2 ins. from each end and on these centre-punch marks
fuller down on the top and the two sides so that the bottom of the
fuller will measure 1/2 × 1/4 in. Draw these ends out to 1/2 × 1/4
in. any length. Cut the four corners off and make the centre round.
Bend the two arms as shown and punch 1/2 in. hole through the boss. Be
careful to prevent cold-shuts while doing this. Drive a drift pin into
the hole and forge the shape as shown. Bend the two arms as shown and
weld together. These should be worked down to a 1/2-in. round. The ends
can be made into a brace shank by squaring the end and tapering it to
fit the jaws of the brace. Or weld a piece of 1/2-in. round iron long
enough to bend it into the shape of a brace, putting a round knob on
the end for a hand hold. This makes a simple wrench and one that can be
used in many places where flat wrenches are not convenient.
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