[Illustration]
This necklace is made on the basis of a circle 7 ins. in diameter.
Most necklaces having pendants are about this size. The design of this
necklace is very simple. One stone is set in the pendant and this shows
on both sides. The whole is connected by silver links. The stones, one
either side of the pendant, between the links of the chain, are set in
the same way as you set the stones in the scarf pin and rings. The only
work to be done which is different from any you have done before is the
making of chain links.
_Material:_ No. 20 or 22 round silver wire, the amount depending upon
the size of the chain. Stones, carefully selected.
[Illustration]
_Directions:_ Draw the design of your necklace on a piece of paper.
Place the stones at intervals. When they seem well proportioned draw
the chain links between them. The length of the links will depend
entirely upon your setting. When you have decided just how many links
go between the stones on your design, measure off the length of one of
those links. Round links do not hang as well as oval links, neither do
they look so well.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
_To make the links:_ Take a piece of iron 3/16 in. in diameter and
file the two sides oval in shape. This is a bar on which you can bend
the links. One end of the silver wire is placed against this mandrel
and both put into the vise and fastened. Bend the wire round and round
this iron rod, making the coils as close as you can get them. Count
each revolution as one link. You can easily count the number of links
in your necklace. When you get the number of turns needed, unfasten it
all from the vise and pull the rod out. You have a spiral-shaped coil.
With a jewellers' saw, saw the length of the spiral on the end of the
links. Each one will drop off in the shape of a link. This is the very
best way to bend up a number of links that will be uniform in size. You
will notice that the ends of the link, after it is sawed off, are not
opposite each other. Push these ends together, using the fingers or a
pair of pliers. If the sawing is carefully done the links will be ready
to solder. Solder first one link in the usual way. Hook the other link
into it. Repeat until the chain is the desired length. If the proper
amount of solder is placed on the joint it will run in without making
lumps to be filed off later.
_Pendant:_ The pendant is made in the same way as the watch fob, which
is explained in a later chapter. The setting of the stones in the chain
is done as other stone setting, except that the ends are filed into
shape to receive the links for joining. Fastenings for the necklace can
be bought at any jewellery store. It is much better to buy them than to
attempt to make them.
Square silver wire can be used to mark out the design, or any design,
instead of round wire, and great variety can be secured merely by a
change in the shape of the wire used for the links. Again, you may have
a necklace with or without the pendant; the so-called bar necklace, the
dog collar, or the chain may be lengthened until it becomes the watch
chain.
In the group picture of necklaces there is one necklace made up of long
flat links joined together by small links soldered on. The design for
the necklace is sawed out. It is used for a necklace and watch chain.
This is only one of many suggestions for sawed out design work applied
in this way.