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_Material:_ A piece of No. 20 silver for the body of the pin; the size
is determined by the size of the stone to be set. A piece of No. 24
for the bezel. A piece of No. 20 silver wire for the pin. The pin piece
can be bought at any jewellery store, if you do not wish to make your
own. They are better, too, than those you make yourself. Solder and
borax.
_Tools:_ Shears, files, draw plate.
_Directions:_ Cut a piece of silver, No. 20, the size of any one of the
above designs. Cut a piece of No. 24, 1/16 in. wide and long enough
to go around the stone, to make a bezel. Be sure that this bezel fits
close and tight around the stone. Bind the bezel, and solder. After
soldering, fit the bezel again to the stone, for the soldering is apt
to change the shape. File the bottom off perfectly flat; clean the
surface of that part to be used for the back of the pin. Bind the bezel
on this piece, wash with borax, and solder it in place.
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_Pin:_ This can be bought at any jewellery store. However, if you wish
to make your own, you can do so in the following manner: Place a piece
of No. 16 wire in the draw plate and reduce it a little. This drawing
through the plate stiffens the wire, and this is just what is needed in
a pin; otherwise it would bend when pushing it into the scarf. When you
think it is stiff enough, file the end to a long needle point. Cut it
off about 3 ins. long. Bend the blunt end down at right angles 1/8 in.
Place this end against the back of the pin in such a way that the bent
end will be against the plate and a little above the centre. Bind it in
place and solder it on tight. Be careful to heat just as little of this
pin as possible, for you remember that heating a piece of silver red
hot softens it, and you must heat it red hot to solder. So confine the
heating to as small a space as possible. Sometimes I soak a piece of
cloth in water and wrap it around the pin, covering up all except the
part to be soldered. This prevents it from softening.
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_To place the stone:_ The stone is put in and the bezel is pushed
against it and holds it in place.
This is a very plain scarf pin without any pretence at design. Scarf
pins can be made in all shapes, sizes, and all sorts of cut out designs.
All silver should be polished smooth and made free from scratches.
The polishing hardens the surface of the metal. This is why silver
jewellery of all kinds becomes brighter and smoother the longer it is
worn.
_Setting of stones in scarf pins:_ There are many ways of setting
stones for scarf pins. The setting just described is called a box
setting, the bezel forming the box to receive the stone. The open or
prong setting is made in the same way as that kind of setting is made
for the stone in the ring.