[Illustration]
_Material:_ Piece of copper, No. 16, 8 ins. square (base). Piece of
copper, No. 24, 10 × 5 ins. (post). Piece of copper, No. 20, 2-1/4 ×
2-1/4 ins. (cap). 3 pieces of 1/4-in. round copper, 7 ins. long (for
shade holder). Solder. Borax.
_Tools:_ Raising hammer, hard wood block, anvil stake, drill press,
piece of discarded broom handle, dividers.
_Directions:_ Make a 2-1/2-in. circle in the centre of the 8-in. square
plate. Drive this centre up about 1/2 in. above the level, tapering on
the top to about 1-1/2 in. in diameter. To do this, place the centre
over a hole in the wooden block 1-1/2 in. in diameter and drive the
metal into the hole to the required depth. (See design.)
Draw a line with the dividers 1/2 in. all around the edge. Be sure the
line is an equal distance from the centre. Bend the sides down 1/2 in.
all along this line at almost right angles to the surface. This bending
is done in the vise. Measure off 1/2 in. in either direction from each
corner for the feet, file out a section 1/4 in. deep and 7 ins. long,
as was done in making the feet for the square box.
[Illustration: Base of lamp]
[Illustration: Base]
[Illustration]
_Centre post:_ Take the 10 × 5-in. piece and bend it around the piece
of broom handle (or any other piece of round wood the size you wish).
The two edges must meet. Scrape and solder, being careful that the
solder runs into the joint. File it off flush with the top of the
metal and make the column perfectly round. Place the column on the
raised part of the base and mark around the column on the base with
a pencil. Saw out a hole along the marked line. Push the end of the
column in so that it is perpendicular to the base and perfectly true
all around. Tie it in place for soldering, with the binding wire, by
fastening the wire on the extreme top of the column, and carrying it
to the four corners of the base. This centres the column ready for
soldering. Wash the joint well, place pieces of silver around the base
and column, and heat. The base should be crowned from the centre to the
outer edge. To do this, place the centre on any round top wood block.
Strike on the outer edges with the wooden mallet until the desired
crown is formed. See that it stands plumb and does not rock. If it does
rock, tap the base gently on the outer edges with the mallet until it
stands firm. File and polish until the surface is perfectly smooth and
free from marks of all kinds. The beautiful colours that form on the
surface of copper depend much upon the finish. The body of the lamp is
now ready for the cap and arms that hold the shade.
[Illustration]
_Cap:_ Take a 2-1/4-in. disc. Draw a circle in the centre of this disc,
having a diameter equal to the diameter of the top of the column. Place
this disc on the edge of an anvil stake and drive the edges of the
metal over, forming a cap as described in the making of the lid of
the rose jar. Divide this flange equally into three parts, drilling a
1/8-in. hole in each one of the three divisions. Take the three pieces
of 1/4-in. round copper. File the ends of each one, making a shoulder
on the end 1/8 in. and 1/8 in. in diameter to fit the holes in the
flange. Put the end of these rods into the vise with the shoulder close
to the top of the vise. Put the cap on the projecting pin, and rivet.
Repeat this for all three rods. Wash the rivet joints with borax, and
solder. File off any projecting parts so that the inside is flush, as
this cap must fit over the column. Place the cap over the column and
between the projecting arms drill a small hole through both the cap and
the column, and rivet as before.
[Illustration]
_Shade, 4-sided or 6-sided:_ This design is for 6 sides. That gives a
good proportion.
_Dimensions of each side:_ Side (on a slant) 9 ins., top, 2-1/2 ins.
Bottom, 8 ins. (See drawing.) Cut out a pattern for one side. Use
stiff card board. Lay this design on a piece of copper large enough to
cut out the whole lamp shade. Mark around the pattern. Lay the same
pattern against one side of the marked design. Make it fit exactly
along the margin line. Repeat until you have done six sides. You have
now a fan shaped pattern with six divisions. Cut this along the top and
bottom lines.
[Illustration]
If folded up along these division lines it would shape up into a lamp
shade. All lamp shades have glass for light. We provide for the glass
by cutting out a section of each of the six faces. Take your card
board pattern. Mark a line all around from 3/4 in. and parallel to the
sides, 1 in. from the top and 1 in. from the bottom. Cut out the inner
section made by these lines. Place the pattern on the copper and mark
each section. Cut it out with the cold chisel on the wooden block.
File up the rough places left, make the edges square and smooth. Bend
up each section along the centre line in the following way: Get two
pieces of wood, 2 × 1/2 × 20 ins. Place the two pieces in a vise and
slip the copper between the pieces down to the line where it should be
bent. Tighten up on the vise, press the copper over with the hands and
tap gently along the lines with the mallet, keeping the angles about
60°. Do this on each of the six sides. If carefully done the shade will
have a hexagonal shape. The open parts should come together, one side
overlapping about 1/4 in. Hammer down the overlapping part and rivet.
[Illustration]
_Glass:_ Cut a piece of card board 1/4 in. larger all around than the
opening in the sections for the glass. Take this to a glazier. Tell the
dealer just what is wanted and he will make suggestions as to colour,
kinds of glass, etc. Cathedral or opalescent glass is very decorative.
[Illustration]
_To set the glass:_ Place one of the panes of glass on the inside of
the section, over the open space. Mark all around it. Take 4 pieces of
copper (3/4 × 3/8 in.) and bend them in a double angle.
These are to be soldered or riveted on the rim. One is placed on either
side, one at the top and one at the bottom. This glass rests in these
brackets and keeps it in place. Repeat for the six sections. Push the
brackets down against the glass after it is in place. They hold it firm
against the side of the shade.
The design for this shade lends itself to many variations. It may be
square, five-sided, six-sided. The edges can be escalloped both top and
bottom, and a sawed out design may be made to fit over the glass.