Riveting is one of the processes of joining two pieces of metal
together without the use of solder. To rivet, you must first punch or
bore holes into the metals along the edges to be joined. Place a rivet
through these holes, and either with the hand hammer or rivet set,
flatten down the projecting end of the rivet, forming a head similar to
the head of the rivet itself. Be careful to have the rivet holes just
large enough to let the rivet slip in and leave no extra space. If the
holes are too large the rivet will bend instead of flattening.
[Illustration: Punching metal]
_Use of the rivet set:_ A rivet set is a piece of steel 5 ins. long,
3/4 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, tapering a little toward the top end.
In the large end of this tool, and to one side, is a 1/8-in. hole
drilled about 3/8 in. deep; on the other side is a counter-sunk hole
about 1/4 in. in diameter and 1/16 in. deep. This hole is used for
drawing the rivet up through and closing the openings between the
parts to be riveted, previous to flattening the end. (See picture of
stove pipe.) The counter-sunk hole is made to shape the head after it
is flattened. Tinners use it often for punching holes in thin metal,
such as tin and galvanized iron, and it's one of the methods used for
punching holes when making or mending stove pipes, and similar shaped
pieces.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Rivet set. Punching holes in a stove pipe and riveting]
_To rivet a stove pipe:_ Place the rivet on the stake and put the iron
pipe over the rivet about where the hole should be. Tip the pipe so
it will rest on the rivet. Tap lightly over the rivet. This will mark
the spot where the rivet is to go. Drive down the rivet set over this
mark and the rivet will be forced through the pipes into the hole of
the rivet set. The hole is made and the rivet placed at the same time.
Flatten the projecting end, put the counter-sunk hole on the top of
this flattened end, and you can shape it up like a round button.