III. The uru (also called _Maiore_), or _Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859, Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the Austrian Navy.

incisa_), is, after the cocoa-palm, the most useful tree on the island.

The fruit, baked in a canak (or native) oven, (_vide ante_, p. 162),

between two heated stones, is the substitute for bread to the Tahitians.

At the period of the war, or in consequence of a short crop, the natives,

like the New Zealanders and the aborigines of the Caroline Archipelago,

buried the fruit of the uru in the earth, and ate it in the putrefied

state. The bread-tree is productive thrice in the year. The first crop,

the best and largest, ripens in March, the second in July, the third,

Manavahoi, at the end of November. The fruit varies from eight to twelve

pounds in weight.

IV. The fara, or _pandanus_, the fruit of which is treated in the same

manner as that of the uru, while the leaves serve as a thatch for the

bamboo-cane huts of the aborigines. Of the red seeds of the _pandanus

odoratissimus_, the ornament-loving Tahitian women prepare exceedingly

fine coronals and necklaces. The leaves of another species, called iri by

the natives, are used for enveloping tobacco, and making cigarettes, as

also in the manufacture of house mats, and mats on which to sleep.

V. The taro (_Caladium esculentum_), a sort of tuber, which at certain

seasons supplies any deficiency in the bread-fruit, and is very carefully

cultivated by the natives. Of this plant there are in Tahiti thirteen

varieties.

VI. Pia (_Tacca pinnatifida_), a sort of tuber resembling the taro, the

mealy substance of which is chiefly used as nutriment for children and

convalescent persons, and which in commerce is erroneously confounded

with arrow-root, the latter being chiefly procured from the Antilles and

India, more especially from _Marantha Indica_ and _Marantha arundinacea_.

The pia is also much used in Tahitian households in the preparation of

small sweet cakes (_Poe-pia_), and is a not unpalatable substitute for

wheaten flour.

VII. Hoi, or yams (_Dioscorea alata_), of which useful tuber a variety of

species are extensively used on the island.

VIII. Umara, or sweet potato (_Convolvulus Batata_), preferred by the

natives to the European potato, and widely cultivated, though it has

somewhat degenerated in Tahiti.

IX. Fare-rupe (_Pteris esculentum_), a kind of fern, the root of which was

in former times much used for food here, as also in New Zealand.

There still remain to be noticed two plants of much interest, from the

roots of which the Tahitians, prior to the arrival of the Europeans,

obtained strong intoxicating beverages.[91] These are the ti-plant

(_Cordyline Australis_) and the kawa, or ava (_Piper methysticum_), of

which latter fourteen varieties are known to the natives.

The cultivation of this species of pepper is at present prohibited in

Tahiti, and kawa-drinking has accordingly fallen into entire disuse. Only

on the peninsula are a few aged Tahitians to be found, who appear

obstinately opposed to the use of our alcoholized liquors, who on special

festivities will face every privation for the luxury of boozing over their

kawa, for which they sometimes pay five francs for a small piece.

Formerly the process of chewing the kawa was performed by the young girls,

and then only by those who had the finest teeth. Before beginning this

delicate task, they were required carefully to rinse their mouths and

purify their hands, for which purpose they made use of special vessels.

When the roots had been slowly and equally chewed, and had been changed

into little cones held together by saliva, they were mingled with water in

a large wooden vessel (_Umeli_), standing upon a tripod, and gently

squeezed by hand. In many of the islands this process of dilution is

performed by mixing cocoa-nut juice instead of the customary water. The

kawa is a very fluid substance, not very inviting in appearance at any

time, but still less so when one has witnessed the mode of preparing it.

Usually it is of the colour of _cafe au lait_; but occasionally, when some

of the leaves of the plant have been mixed with the root, the beverage

assumes a greenish tinge, something like wormwood, although to the palate

it has nothing in common with that substance.

Kawa is drunk out of the half of the cocoa-nut shell, which in the hands

of a native skilled in carving becomes a really elegant beaker. Only

families of high birth, the Arii and Raatira,[92] who are exempted from

toil, are however able to indulge in the luxury of a daily draught of

kawa. The symptoms of intoxication are very similar to those of opium. In

the kawa-drinker, like the opium-eater or Samshoo smoker, there is a

nervous tremulousness perceptible, followed by utter exhaustion, and an

overpowering necessity for sleep. After its effects have passed off, there

is a sensation of weariness in the limbs, to remove which the regular

kawa-drinkers are accustomed to plunge into the cold waters of the nearest

mountain stream. A very peculiar cuticular disease, the infallible result

of the daily use of this beverage, is called by the natives _Arewarewa_.

A German chemist, M. Noellenberger, who was resident at Papeete during our

visit to the Archipelego, had succeeded in September, 1858, in

crystallizing the essential principle of the kawa root, which he called

Kawain, the powers and properties of which he was about to investigate

more minutely. As we have since then been favoured with a copy of the very

valuable work of Mr. G. Cuzent upon Tahiti, already alluded to, we learn

therein that that zealous naturalist had already, in 1857, found in the

kawa root an organic base, which he termed Kawahine, and which is fully

described in his interesting Monography (p. 99).

Owing to kawa-drinking having been prohibited in Tahiti, chiefly through

the influence of the missionaries, the use of brandy and other spirituous

liquors is beginning to exercise a not less baneful influence in that

island upon the physical and intellectual powers.

In agriculture, as in commerce, the effect of the French Protectorate has

been visibly to slacken the rate of progress. The number of ships that

visit the island does not exceed 60 to 80 annually, representing an

interchange of merchandise to the value of about L64,000 per annum, of

which about five-eighths, or L40,000, may be estimated as the amount

exported.[93] What is most surprising, is the small number of whalers who

visit the island for provisions and repairs. In 1836, the total number was

fifty-two; at present not more than five or six in the year enter the

harbour of Papeete. In the official reports this falling off is ascribed

to the fish having forsaken these regions, while the stagnation of trade

is generally ascribed to the reduction of the French garrison (!) in

Tahiti, and the rise of late years of the Sandwich Islands and California.

But the _true_ cause of the decay is to be sought for in a very different

direction. It lies chiefly in a very defective system of administration,

which is constantly being transferred from one hand to the other, having

at its head to-day a ship-captain, and to-morrow possibly an officer of

gensdarmes or an engineer. A letter[94] addressed to the Emperor Louis

Napoleon by an English merchant long resident at Tahiti, unsparingly

unveils the present disorders of Tahiti with respect to rights of

property, administration of justice, legislation, and social state, and

draws a shocking picture of the actual state of the island, once in such

high estimation for the felicity of its inhabitants.

On the other hand, the very benefits the mother country is supposed to

derive from its Protectorate are at least problematical. While the

establishment of French stations in Oceania has required about L240,000,

the annual cost of keeping them on foot has never cost less than L100,000,

and of this the Protectorate of Tahiti figures for from L24,000 to

L28,000.[95] This by no means trifling sum is not however employed in

promoting commerce or advancing trading interests; for not more than two

or three ships in the year come direct to Tahiti from France, while the

majority of the fabrics used there are English, which are imported from

Valparaiso, the only port with which Papeete has regular communication.

The military colony of Taiohai on the island of Nukahiwa, one of the

Marquesas, has been entirely abandoned since 1st January, 1859, on account

of the too great cost of keeping it up, although Ute-Moana, the king of

the Marquesas, and the chiefs of the island of Nukahiwa, were desirous of

retaining the French Protectorate, and had drawn up a formal address of

submission, while, on the other hand, New Caledonia (Dum'mbia) can only be

kept up at very considerable cost.

Lately great reforms have been everywhere inaugurated, in order to

diminish the heavy administrative expense hitherto incurred. The French

colonies of eastern and western Oceania are to be provided with entirely

independent administrations. The Governor of the French establishments in

Oceania Oriental is to reside in Papeete, while his colleague of Oceania

Occidental is to have his seat of Government at Port de France in New

Caledonia. This subdivision, however, must add materially to the cost of

maintenance, while it is difficult to see how it can augment the prospects

of any increase of revenue.

The French, in a word, have no success in their attempts anywhere at

colonization; they are not practical colonists. The absence of this

faculty, if one may call it so, is doubly apparent in the Southern

hemisphere, where they are surrounded on all hands by English colonies.

True it is, the English also have usually acquired by the strong hand

their possessions in Oceania, in Australia, in Asia, &c., and from the

stand-point of humanity it is impossible always to defend the means by

which they have made themselves masters of the fairest and most fertile

countries on the globe. But what have been the results directly springing

from these high-handed acts, these political _faits accomplis_? England

has thrown open to the unrestricted enterprise of all trading and

seafaring nations those islands and continents so highly favoured by

nature, with their feckless fast-disappearing aboriginal races; she has

striven, by giving free institutions, to attract diligent colonists, to

develope the natural wealth of these countries by means of scientific

exploration, for the benefit of all; she has wafted to the remotest

corners of the earth the seeds of Christian civilization, and by her

energy, her capacity for labour, and her earnestness of purpose, has

impressed all, even the most savage races, with a feeling of envy and

astonishment at the intellectual superiority, the power, and the greatness

of the white man!

Under the influence of liberal but more morally stringent laws, Tahiti

might speedily be raised to the position of a great emporium of the

Southern seas, the Singapore of Oceania. Under the French Protectorate, on

the contrary, the island, with its population long since renowned for

indolence and sensuality, has become, in fact, what a French captain once

jocularly termed it, "La Nouvelle Cythere!"

Although the Society Islands are by no means a French penal settlement

(the climate being possibly _too healthy_), there are, nevertheless, both

at Tahiti and Nukahiwa, a few men, rather politically discontented than

downright dangerous, whom a merciful interpretation of French martial law

has exempted from banishment to Cayenne, (that name of terror![96]) and

whom we might almost say that a beneficent destiny has transported to the

shores of the South Sea. One of these political offenders, named

Longomasino, has to thank the visit of the Austrian frigate to Papeete for

his restoration to liberty. He had been a journalist at Toulouse in 1851,

and maintained a zealous correspondence with some of the most intimate

hangers-on upon Louis Napoleon, till the _coup d'etat_ revealed the French

ruler's projects, and Longomasino joined the camp of the opponents of the

new empire. His contumacious agitation against the new order of things led

to his imprisonment and ultimate banishment. He was first transported to

Nukahiwa, one of the Marquesas Islands, and afterwards received permission

to settle at Papeete in Tahiti. Starting as a farrier, then an advocate,

and finally a tavern-keeper, he was unable in any of these capacities to

earn a subsistence for himself and his numerous family; the less so, that

political intrigues deprived him of the right to practise at the bar, and

this compelled him to have recourse to a business for which he had neither

taste nor turn. If we understood matters aright, Longomasino, in the

course of his juridical labours, had been able to do many a good turn to

the Catholic bishop of Tahiti in his dispute with the French

administration, and it was therefore less sympathy with the unfortunate

political convict than the desire to play an adversary a trick by

depriving him of an able adherent, which induced the Governor to ask our

Commodore permission to give a free passage to Longomasino, who had been

condemned to transportation for life. The request was willingly granted,

and on the eve of our sailing Longomasino came on board the frigate, while

his wife and family were to follow by a merchant-ship. The unhappy man,

who had not words enough wherewith to express his gratitude for the

friendly reception he experienced, still further gained the sympathies of

all on board, with his melancholy fate, by his manly reticence on the

subject of the injustice he had sustained.[97]

Another convict, who had excited universal attention at Papeete, was M.

Belmare, a well-educated young man, who in 1850 avowed he had shot at

Louis Napoleon while at the Tuileries, and, in consequence, been

transported to Tahiti. The fact that Belmare has since then been taken

into the employ of the treasury at Papeete, where he receives a salary of

L100 per annum, gave colour to the most whimsical reports as to the

clemency displayed by the French Government in this case; yet we

repeatedly heard the opinion expressed that Belmare was solely put forward

as a tool for carrying out--which was to be used as a blind by giving the

Government of Louis Napoleon opportunity for new stretches of arbitrary

power. Whether, however, a residence at Tahiti, even with a handsome

salary, be sufficient recompence for such services, M. Belmare alone is in

a position to say.

A succession of bad weather, such as so frequently occurs in the tropics,

delayed our departure for several days. Now it was a heavy gale,

commencing in the north and gradually veering round to W. and S.W.; now it

was a series of calms, while the surf swept in unbroken masses on the

beach, and so heavily, that it seemed the height of imprudence to take the

frigate out through the narrow channel which constitutes the mouth of the

harbour of Papeete, and is nothing but a cleft in the coral walls which

surround Tahiti, and protect it from the ocean swell.

At length, on 28th February, at day-break, we got under weigh. One of our

own boats, as also a boat from the French steamer _Milan_, which was

courteously placed at our disposal, towed the _Novara_ outside the reef,

and materially aided the efforts of our men, a barely perceptible catspaw

of wind just filling the sails. Piloted by a native lootse, we steered out

so close to the projecting coral reefs, that the frigate all but touched

them.

We now had a parting view of Tahiti and the little island of Motu-Uta,

where stood our improvised observatory, and where so many sleepless nights

had been passed in observations for the purpose of defining astronomically

the exact position of the island.

We found the breeze freshened once we were outside the reef, and steered

northwards, beautiful Tahiti, with the imposing and irregular outline of

its hills, and the richness and variety of its vegetation, recalling, in

some aspects, the glowing loveliness of the tropics, in others, the still

sublimity of some of our Alpine landscapes, till it lay behind us like a

shadowy vision of dream-land.

Almost simultaneously with the departure of the _Novara_, the American

whaler _Emily Morgan_, Captain Chase, stood out from the harbour of

Papeete. This vessel had been whaling in the southern seas during five

years, without any adequate return for her perseverant exertions. Her

entire take was as yet only four barrels of train oil!! She was now making

for the Sandwich Islands, and thence home to Boston. Latterly, the North

American whalers have formed themselves into partnership, so as to divide

profit and loss. If his companions had encountered no better fortune than

Captain Chase, they might safely aver they had worked five years for

nothing. The crew of the _Emily Morgan_, who were as usual almost entirely

dependent for their remuneration on their tenth share of the oil, had

begun to despair, and six of their number deserted from the ship, to stay

behind at Tahiti. Throughout the voyage, Captain Chase had had his wife

with him, a spirited energetic American woman, who on occasions could take

her trick at the helm, or even direct the ship's man[oe]uvres. So

completely had she fallen into the ways on board ship, that even in

ordinary conversation she frequently let slip a few sea-phrases, and

recounted, with much pride, how, when the boats had been away in pursuit,

she had kept her watch like a regular officer.

On 8th March, Shrove Tuesday was celebrated on board. Several sailors had

disguised themselves as Invalids, as Tahitians, as Nicobarians, &c., and

played off all manner of pranks. Dolce, our cook, the merry-andrew of the

vessel, figured as a troubadour, in which capacity he sang several

heart-thrilling melodies. In the afternoon the band played on deck, and

in the evening the jolly tars, to their great gratification, received each

a double allowance of grog.

It was our Commodore's intention to cross the shorter diameter of the

almost elliptical curve of equal magnetic declination, which occurs in

this vicinity, with the view, if possible, of ascertaining by observation

by what law the "local variation" of the needle is diminishing within the

curve of 5 deg., the latest indicated in the most recent magnetic charts.

This curve of 5 deg. easterly magnetic declination lies, according to F.

Evans,[98] between the parallels of 5 deg. 30' N. and 13 deg. S. lat., and 120 deg. W.

and 134 deg. 30' W., north-eastward from the Marquesas Islands.

The magnetic needle, as is well known, does not point to the geographical

poles, but is deflected from the due north and south meridian, in a

direction eastward or westward according to locality, at an angle which,

in the measure of the easterly or westerly magnetic variation of the

plane, is called eastern or western declination or variation, and which

not only gradually alters at every place with the lapse of time, but also

is universally found to assume different values at different places, so

that in certain lines, known as lines of equal declination, the variation

remains the same for all places under that line during a certain given

period.

As the compass is the sole reliable guide of the seaman while traversing

the ocean, and it is of the utmost importance to investigate and

accurately lay down the ship's course for the port which is her object to

make, it appears necessary to explain to the uninitiated how the local

variation of the magnetic needle is determined, as thereby one can readily

find the precise angle at which the magnetic meridian of any place is

deflected from the true meridian.

The determination of this divergence is effected by means of observations

of the sun, by the aid of which one can calculate at any moment its actual

bearings, as seen from the deck of the ship, and this, compared with the

true position of the sun, gives the amount of variation.

This apparently simple method of determination encounters in practice,

owing to certain local influences, a variety of obstacles, for it is

executed on board of a ship, which frequently contains within itself, at a

greater or less distance from the binnacle, large superficies of iron,

operating less or more prejudicially upon the needle, by deflecting it

from the direction which it would actually have but for these masses of

iron. Hence the variation is not even the same in all parts of the ship,

nor does it follow the same direction, but varies according to certain

laws, founded upon the intensity and direction of the magnetic attraction

of the earth. It is therefore necessary to make allowance for these local

deflections of the needle, in order to find the true variation of the

needle.

So far as regards the last-named, many thousand observations, both by land

and sea, have resulted in furnishing us with a rule for empirically

finding the amount of variation, for short periods at least, according to

which the magnetic needle is found to vary from year to year at every spot

along certain given lines, which it has been found possible to delineate

upon the charts; thus showing at a glance the amount of variation to be

allowed for at any given spot. As this is sufficient for all practical

purposes of navigation, the seaman is, in most cases, relieved of the

necessity of making for himself these observations and calculations, if

only he can ascertain with anything like accuracy the position of his ship

on the earth's surface, and has determined the amount of local variation

on board.

These iso-magnetic lines are, however, susceptible of great improvement,

and if they are ever to become practically and universally useful,

repeated observations must not be neglected by such navigators as have the

means and the requisite scientific knowledge to pursue such investigation.

On board the _Novara_ not a single sunshiny day was suffered to pass

without the variation being frequently determined, or such observations

repeated as related to the determination of local attraction on board.

Under such circumstances, an unusual value attached to our ascertaining

and following up so far as practicable the decrease in declination of the

magnetic needle till it reached the zero point assigned to it, and

comparing our own observations with the amounts stated on the charts.

It was, however, at least as regarded nautical matters, of by no means

special importance, that we should reach the very point of minimum

declination,--it sufficed to ascertain that the observed diminution, as

marked upon the charts, corresponded with our observations, which proved,

in fact, to be the case.

This confirmation proved the more satisfactory, that when we reached the

N.E. side of the Paomotu group (also called Pakomotu, lying between

13 deg.-22 deg. S., and 135 deg.-150 deg. W.) we found a fresh north-easter blowing, a

phenomenon which during the fine season is due to the high temperature of

these islands, and of course interposed a serious and persistent obstacle

to our intended N.E. course.

Another impediment to our attempt to get nearer to the zero point of

minimum declination presented itself in the far from healthy state of the

ship's crew. A peculiar endemic colic,[99] called by the French at Tahiti

_colique seche_, or _colique vegetale_ (dry or vegetable colic), was

rapidly extending among the men, and had already carried off one victim, a

sailor, who died after a short illness on the morning of the 9th March,

and was committed to the deep the same day with the customary solemnities.

By 17th March, in 15 deg. 52' S., and 137 deg. 23' W., the declination of the

magnetic needle had diminished to 5-1/2 deg. E., and thus far agreed pretty

accurately with that indicated by the charts; it is not, however, likely

that it actually falls to a zero point, but rather diminishes gradually

as the central point is approached, which would hardly be the case if the

declination actually fell to zero.

By 25th March we found ourselves about the latitude of Pitcairn Island,

from which we were barely one hundred miles distant. This island, so

singular alike by its physical features and its remarkable history as the

retreat of the surviving mutineers of the _Bounty_ with their families,

has latterly had its interesting population removed to Norfolk Island,

where there was room for the simple God-fearing community to increase its

numbers without the risk of an excess of population over the resources of

the soil, as there appeared reason to apprehend had they been left on

Pitcairn Island.

The story of the mutiny itself, the escape and subsequent career of

Captain and Admiral Bligh, the extraordinary change that came over Adams

when, ere ten years had passed, he found himself the sole survivor of the

mutineers, all but one of whom died a violent death, and the hardly less

marvellous manner in which this primitive community was discovered, after

the lapse of nearly thirty years, are themes that need no recapitulation

here. Much less known however is their subsequent, hardly less singular,

destiny, and it will not, therefore, be out of place if, in the interests

of the general reader, we vouchsafe a passing notice of their strange

career.

In 1814, twenty-five years after the mutiny, Sir Thomas Staines in H.M.S.

_Briton_ visited the island, at which time the little colony consisted of

46 individuals, 38 of whom had been born thus far from all civilization.

Nevertheless the little community were living contented and happy in all

the simplicity of a patriarchal family, and in the cultivation of the

cardinal virtues of Christian morality, inculcated by the now venerable

Will. Adams, such as thankfulness to the Creator of all things, patience,

gentleness, and neighbourly love.

The very singular origin of this exemplary race repeatedly attracted

passing ships to this little-known island, and this intercourse did not

fail to exercise a pernicious effect upon the spiritual-mindedness of the

islanders, the more so that there were among these numbers of desperate

adventurers, who did all in their power to mislead this simple-minded

race.

When Captain Beechy, in 1825, approached the island in his ship _Blossom_,

he perceived a small boat standing off towards him under full sail. On

board were Adams himself and several of his pupils. They requested

permission to come on board, and hardly waiting for an answer, the little

active lads had clambered up and stood on the quarter-deck. Adams had lost

his youthful agility, and for a moment seemed to hesitate. The sight of a

man-of-war, it may well be conceived, made a deep impression upon him. It

called up too many mournful recollections, and when he beheld the cannon

and all the "circumstance of war," with which in his youth he had been

familiar, he could no longer restrain himself, and tears of emotion

flowed down his wrinkled cheeks and silvery beard. At this period the

island boasted 66 inhabitants, and the old man felt deep anxiety lest the

little spot of earth to which he was banished apparently without hope of

reprieve, should ere long prove insufficient to provide adequate support

or even space for its rapidly-increasing population.[100] He spoke to the

excellent Beechy upon the subject, and implored the English Government to

provide his little flock with a more comfortable abiding-place under the

English sceptre, and better adapted to the wants of his rapidly-increasing

posterity.

On 5th March, 1829, Adams expired at the age sixty-five, surrounded by his

children and descendants. In the latter days of his illness, during the

short intervals of ease which his intermittent agony left him, he

expressed a wish that the community would during his life select some one

to be their head; however, out of respect for the venerable sufferer, this

was not carried out officially, but after the death of Adams, Edward

Johnny, son of one of the seamen of the _Bounty_, assumed the Presidency

of the little colony, while renouncing the honorary title.

Under him the Anglo-Tahitian settlers enjoyed visible prosperity, when an

unexpected event destroyed for ever the placid tenure of their existence,

and compelled them to leave their beloved island. On his return to Europe,

the gallant Beechy, intending to confer a real benefit on the gentle

people in whom he felt so lively an interest, had laid before the British

Government Adams' dying request, in consequence of which an English

man-of-war and a transport made their appearance from Port Jackson,

Australia, in March, 1831, to transport the whole of the inhabitants to

Tahiti, which European nations regarded as the most suitable spot for them

to be settled in. The Pitcairn Islanders were in despair, for, when made

aware of the steps taken by "Father Adams" through Captain Beechy to get

them placed under the British Crown, the good folks had long before

written to England and urgently entreated that they would not remove them

from their own hearth; but their entreaties seem not to have reached the

proper quarter, or else to have received no attention, and now that the

two ships lay off the island, evincing the interest taken by the English

Government in their future destiny, they could not venture on refusing to

embark. They had to content themselves with the assurance that they should

be restored to Pitcairn Island, in the event of their not finding

themselves comfortable in their new asylum.

By the end of March, 1831, they reached Tahiti. Although Queen Pomare had

set apart a certain tract of land for them to settle in, and manifested

the warmest interest, and though the usually frivolous but hospitable and

kindly Tahitians received the new arrivals in the most cordial manner,

the pure minds of the latter were so disgusted and revolted with what they

saw at Papeete, that the very day after they disembarked, they loudly

declared that under no circumstances would they remain there, and

therefore claimed to be taken back to Pitcairn's Island. When it was found

that all representations failed to induce them to make any stay at Tahiti,

a few Protestant missionaries got up, in conjunction with some English

residents, a fund of some L400, with which they chartered a schooner, for

the purpose of restoring the Pitcairn Islanders to their rocky paradise in

the solitudes of the Pacific, for which they felt such an irresistible

homesickness. In August of the same year the return voyage took place.

During their short stay at Tahiti, fourteen had died of sheer grief and

anguish of mind, like plants that had been transplanted into a foreign

soil. Although only six months absent in all from Pitcairn Island, there

was not one single family but had to regret the loss of some beloved

member!

Despite their bitter experience hitherto, the old terror of

over-population again arose in the bosoms of the Pitcairners, after a

series of prosperous and peaceful years, and a wish began to be frequently

expressed that at least a portion of the inhabitants could be drafted off

to some other island. In order to comprehend and do justice to this

feeling, one must place oneself in the position of a resident on an

extremely small solitary island in the ocean, which is often for years

cut off from any communication with the outer world, and every corner of

which has already been cultivated to the utmost: would it not be a

pardonable anxiety, which in view of such circumstances should fill with

gloomy forebodings the heart of every prudent head of a family, and make

him hesitate between love for his native soil, and the desire to preserve

independence and comfort to his family?

A second attempt at acquiring a settlement beyond their own confined

limits was not more fortunate than the first. The Government of England,

with the meritorious care for the interest of even the poorest of her

subjects in the most remote regions of the globe, which is one of her

noblest characteristics, once more dispatched a ship of war to Pitcairn,

with orders to transport the inhabitants to Norfolk Island between New

Zealand and New California, of the marvellous climate, vegetation, and

fertility of which the most glowing accounts were in circulation. A few

plants which had been conveyed thence by English navigators to Europe had

excited universal astonishment--such exquisite forms of vegetation, it was

thought, could only form part of some landscape of marvellous beauty and

richness. And one must, in fact, have seen the _Araucaria excelsa_, the

well-known Norfolk Island pine, in order rightly to understand these

raptures. Such an island, it was thought, with an equable climate,

fertile, and of adequate extent, must be the very thing for the idyllic

life of such a people as the Pitcairn Islanders. Adams' descendants and

their kinsmen accordingly suffered themselves to be persuaded into trying

this change, the more so that their own island was beginning, as had long

been foreseen, to prove too small for them, and the possibility of a

deficiency of food began to assume an appalling air of probability.

In May, 1856, the British Government expended L5000 in sending another

ship from Sydney to Pitcairn, to carry out the wishes of the inhabitants

and their advocates in England, by transporting the entire community to

Norfolk Island. There were in all 193 souls, viz. 40 men, 47 women, 54

boys and 52 girls, who now said farewell to the land of their birth. But

on this occasion also the elder seemed to feel an anticipation of their

speedy return, and before they embarked they took every possible

precaution to ensure their finding their dwellings in the same order in

which they were leaving them. They placed written bills on the doors of

their houses, in which they requested all visitors to abstain from

injuring their property, as they were only leaving the island for an

indefinite visit, and would very speedily return to their old quarters.

They killed all the pigs and dogs upon the island, lest the first should

violate the sanctity of the grave, and the latter injure their flocks and

herds.

By the ensuing harvest-time they were installed in their new home.

Provided for the first time by the English Government with the requisite

means of subsistence, as well as agricultural implements, &c., they seemed

to feel themselves quite at home, and their friends and well-wishers in

England began to indulge hopes that they had at last found at Norfolk

Island the long-wished-for asylum, and as energetic and industrious

landowners would at once benefit themselves and develope the resources of

the island. These pleasing anticipations were the more natural, as for a

number of years nothing more was heard of the "Pitcairn Islanders," except

that everything was going on prosperously and quietly in the new colony.

While the _Novara_ was lying at Sydney, in November and December, 1858,

intelligence was received respecting these colonists, in whom, on account

of their singular history, the deepest interest was felt there as

elsewhere. In the (then) Governor-general's (Sir W. Denison's) residence

we saw a photographic group of the islanders, male and female, whose

pleasing expression involuntarily excited profound sympathy for the

persons thus represented. Since their arrival in Norfolk Island there had

been no more definite news concerning them.

At New Zealand, in like manner, nothing was known of what they were doing.

At St. John's College, Auckland, we quite accidentally fell in with two

young well-grown men, who we were told were Pitcairn Islanders in the

course of education for missionaries. There was in their faces a mild,

half-melancholy expression; they spoke perfectly good English, but in the

most ordinary conversation used Scriptural phraseology. It was known that

when he began to instruct the younger members of the community Adams

possessed only a Bible and some religious books. Thus they not only were

instructed in the Book of books, but even in ordinary life the biblical

phraseology and peculiarity of expression still clung, even to the fourth

generation.

During our visit to Tahiti we heard one day that the schooner _Louisa_,

Captain Stewart, had just arrived from Pitcairn Island, whither he had

transported a number of its former inhabitants from Norfolk Island. We

resolved to get speech with this gentleman, in order that we might gather

from his own lips the details of his voyage. It so chanced that he stayed

in the house of an English settler, who had let to us a small palm-hut

during our stay at Papeete. We very soon struck up an acquaintance.

Captain Stewart, a genuine Englishman in appearance, character, and

expression, explained to us in brief terms that he had at their own cost

transported a number of the Pitcairners from Norfolk Isle to their old

home, and, during the voyage, which lasted some weeks, had kept a pretty

full journal. "But," continued the truth-loving captain, "I am not at

present in a position to give you any circumstantial details respecting

them. Business compels me to go over to the island of Eimeo, and by the

time I return hither the _Novara_ will be well on her way to Valparaiso. I

am likewise bound, however, for the west coast of South America, in fact

to Valparaiso, and shall probably arrive there a few weeks after you. I

promise you, during my voyage thither, to jot down the most important data

I can recall respecting these islanders, and they shall be placed at your

disposal immediately on my arrival in Valparaiso." We thanked Captain

Stewart for his kindness, and we parted with a vigorous "shake hands" of

genuine English cordiality.

The reader will see in the subsequent chapter how honourably the worthy

skipper kept his word. Two months later, after we had sailed over 5220

nautical miles, we were handed the promised information; but to preserve

uniformity we shall present the reader at once with this comprehensive

sketch of the present state of Pitcairn and its amiable inhabitants, as

furnishing the latest particulars of the islanders, which are now for the

first time published in Europe.

"Captain Stewart had been in communication with the inhabitants of

Pitcairn in November, 1858. Landing at Norfolk Island, in the course of a

voyage in the South Sea, the community chartered his schooner to convey

certain of their number back to Pitcairn Island. They declared they had

only quitted Pitcairn in consequence of the glowing description given them

of Norfolk Island. Instead of the promised superabundance, they could only

by dint of severe labour provide themselves with the ordinary necessaries

of life. Their staple of food was sweet potatoes and a small quantity of

meat, in fact, a single bullock, which by permission of Government they

slaughtered once a week, and the flesh of which served the entire

community.

"Besides all this, the rudeness of the climate did not seem to suit them,

and diseases seemed to become more and more frequent among them. In fact,

it turned out that the natural advantages of Norfolk Island had been

persistently overrated by early visitors, the consequence being that the

poor Pitcairners found themselves woefully disappointed in the

expectations they had formed of their sojourn in this terrestrial

paradise.

"The scenery of the island is everywhere lovely, and the peculiarity of

its vegetation, especially when seen from seaward, exercises a kind of

fascination over the beholder; but the ground, which is the most important

consideration for the settler, who is bound to the soil, not by the

sublime and beautiful, but by the useful, is very far from being fertile,

and the sole descriptions of produce extensively raised are maize and

sweet potato. Wheat and barley are so exposed to frost and mildew that

only one crop out of several proves remunerative, and the potato makes so

small a return, in consequence of the amount of seed and labour required,

that it is only cultivated as a rarity. Even the commonest vegetables are

scanty and of poor quality, and under these circumstances it is at least

probable that the cultivation formerly carried on by the English convicts

and criminals, in which the results would naturally exceed expectation,

had led to the mistaken idea that Norfolk Island was fertile. It is about

9000 English acres (14 English square miles) of superficial area, of which

about 1500 acres only are cleared, and but one half of that, or

one-twelfth of the whole, suitable for cultivation.

"It is just possible to land on either the south or north sides, if _the

water be smooth_; the little village is situated near the former, and

consists of about 100 'block-houses' of various dimensions. There are also

a number of stone-buildings upon the island, which speak of the times when

the island was a penal settlement, and comprises a large prison for about

2000 convicts, besides the necessary barracks for the military guard; a

church, a hospital, magazines, and dwelling-houses for the Governor, the

chaplain, the inspector, the officers, &c., buildings which, taken in

conjunction with the grave-mounds and frail tombstones of the adjoining

churchyard, tell a mournful tale to the visitor of the earlier

inhabitants, and of the tragic fate of many thousands who must have toiled

and sunk under their hopeless doom in Norfolk Island.

"The Pitcairn Islanders occupied the houses constructed for the Government

officials, and had not shown the slightest attempt to settle upon spots

suitable for agriculture. When the British Government made the island over

to them to be cleared and reclaimed there were about 2000 head of sheep,

several hundred cattle, 20 draught horses, and a large number of swine and

poultry. In addition to this handsome present, Government gave them

provisions for six months, besides agricultural implements, seeds of

various useful plants, and vegetables of every description. There were

also two sloops, of about 15 tons each, left at the island, besides a

complete stock of household necessaries. All the above were made a free

gift of to the islanders by the British Government, which merely reserved

to itself a part of what used to be the prison-buildings, in case it

should wish to devote them to its former purposes at some future period.

"When Captain Stewart visited Norfolk Island, in 1858, the population

consisted of 219 Pitcairn Islanders, and two English soldiers with their

families, employed as surveyors by Government.

"On the day of his arrival a public meeting was held, at which the chief

magistrate of the community presided, and the females played a not

unimportant part. It was arranged that for a certain sum Captain Stewart

should convey 60 of the Pitcairn Islanders to their old abode. A special

motion for the purpose was put to the meeting with all due form, seconded,

and reduced to writing on either side. At the same time it was

imperatively ordered that all should be ready to embark on the fourth day

thereafter, and as there is but one, and that not a very safe, anchorage

off the whole coast of the island, the Captain stood off and on in its

neighbourhood.

"The eve of the fated fourth day found the delicate question still

unsettled of who were to be the happy 60, so many had set their hearts on

forming part of the expedition. A second meeting was convened, this time

under the presidency of their chaplain, but the only result was to defer

for one day the embarkation. During this entire period the poor people

were in the utmost excitement. The place of embarkation was covered with

the baggage of all who were desirous of returning to Pitcairn's Island;

but, as in consequence of their original descent there have been such

frequent intermarriages, and hence such close relationship, reminding one

of the clans of Scotland, it was impossible to decide who was to go and

who to remain. At length, on the expiry of the last day left them to

decide, it was arranged that in the event of Captain Stewart proving

unable to take off two entire families or clans (about 100 persons), only

one should be taken to Pitcairn. The Captain hesitated at venturing on so

long a voyage with such a number of souls in so small a vessel. He

therefore took on board only 17 of the islanders, men, women, and

children, whom he landed at Pitcairn Island, after a voyage of 42 days,

amid tears of rapture at finding themselves on the well-remembered spot.

The notifications they had attached to their doors on leaving had not

entirely answered their expectations. During their absence several of the

huts had been gutted, and a large number of the oxen had been carried off.

However, it was not altogether malice or wanton destruction which had

diverted to other purposes their cherished household gods. Shortly before

their arrival, in a wild night of storms, the American clipper _Wild Wave_

had been wrecked on a coral reef, not far from Pitcairn, and a part of the

crew, having succeeded in reaching the island, were compelled to avail

themselves of the building material, thus collected to hand for them, with

which to construct a boat, in which, with true sailor-like hardihood, to

face the winds and waves once more. For this purpose the church and some

twenty huts came handy, while a plentiful stock of goats, sheep, and

poultry were roaming at large about the island. A considerable quantity of

valuable tropical fruit was hanging ripe upon the trees, and seemed only

awaiting the return of the former owners to be plucked for use.

"The baggage was speedily landed, and an unusual activity prevailed, with

the view of getting housed as speedily as possible. It was plain these

poor people had never expected again to get possession of a domain which

they had abandoned through ignorance and misrepresentation. The reverent

air with which they entered their huts and gazed around with keen

scrutinizing glance to see if all had been left in its former state,

showed with what love and veneration they clung to this gloomy possession

of their progenitors, with all its melancholy traditions, which seemed to

exercise over them a deeper attraction than the majestic ruins of a

princely ancestral castle, with all its world-famous memories, sometimes

does upon the youthful representative of its pristine glories.

"The important part played by the women during the consultations held at

Norfolk Island seemed anew to be claimed by the fair sex at Pitcairn, and

Captain Stewart could not sufficiently wonder at the high social position

they occupied in the little community. The ladies for their part made the

most of this privilege, and their utmost efforts were directed towards

justifying it by their activity in household matters."

Such is the latest that is known as to the Pitcairn Islanders and their

singular destiny. It is not at all improbable that the majority of their

kindred will gradually find their way back to the original seat of their

race, there to end their days.

Making all allowance for their aptitude and their natural preferences,

their innate timidity and lack of decision must leave a painful impression

upon every impartial mind; but this prominent trait of character seems to

have a deep-seated physiological basis. The "Mutiny of the _Bounty_" was

followed by a natural reaction. The ever-present dread of discovery, which

constantly haunted Christian and his criminal associates, and to their

dying day deprived them of all tranquillity of mind, was transmitted, but

in a milder form, to their descendants, and struck root in their bosoms in

a feeling of dependence and excessive timidity, which prevented even their

grand-children from attaining tranquillity, and from becoming not to say

intellectual, but even useful, members of society. Will, courage,

independence, seem for ever to have fled from the breast of the Pitcairn

Islanders, who, on the other hand, have many virtues well calculated to

excite our sympathies, and of whom especially the founder of this

simple-minded community, the energetic, clear-sighted Adams, has, by his

actions, proved anew the truthfulness of the saying, "Whoever has the

power to WILL (a thing) can perform miracles!"

* * * * *

Our voyage to the west coast of America was speedy, though rather stormy.

Seldom were the heavens clear, and alternately with violent rains, we felt

that discomfort arising from constant motion, the result of heavy seas and

tremendous rolling, to which the voyager is so frequently exposed.

On 4th April, at night, while shortening sail, owing to the violence of

the wind and the threatening aspect of the weather, one of the crew was

precipitated from the main-top-gallant-yard, a height of 125 feet above

the deck. Being caught as he fell among the shrouds and rigging, he

succeeded in catching hold of one, and so with diminished force fell into

the main-top, a fall of 69 feet, upon which some of his comrades, going to

his assistance, rescued him from further danger, when he was found to have

suffered so little, that he returned to duty the following day!

On the 11th, without any particularly heavy weather, the main-yard

suddenly snapped in two. On a more minute investigation it was found that

it had become greatly weakened by dry rot, so much so that it could no

longer be used. It was fortunate this took place during ordinary weather,

so that the two fragments could be lowered without much difficulty. In a

high sea and heavy weather, such an accident is often attended by most

lamentable results, for two pieces of timber, each above 40 feet in

length, measuring 21 inches at the thickest, by 8 inches at the smallest

diameter, and several thousand pounds in weight, can hardly come rattling

down upon the hull of the ship without inflicting serious injury, and

endangering the lives of numbers of men.

As we had no spare main-yard, we had to sling a smaller one till our

arrival at the nearest port, giving rather a singular appearance to the

vessel, but without perceptibly affecting her speed.

In 34 deg. S. and 76 deg. W., the temperature of the ocean was observed suddenly

to fall 3 deg.1 Fahr., and we now, for a distance of about 200 nautical

miles, were in what is known as Humboldt's current, which carried us

towards N. by W. at a velocity of from half to three-quarters of a mile

per hour. Our experience of this renowned current, so far at least as

regards the season of the year, and the latitude and longitude in which it

is fallen in with, are widely different from those statistics which

represent it as sensibly felt at a distance of from 800 to 1000 miles off

the W. coast of South America.

On the 16th, the faint outline was visible of Aconcagua, the highest of

the Chilean Andes, and a few hours later we made the lighthouse of

Valparaiso. A light breeze with a heavy sea made it seem advisable not to

run in during the night, the result of which was that on the following

morning it was only by the efforts of some tow-boats dispatched to our

assistance by the commander of H.B.M. ship of the line "_Ganges_," and the

French corvette "_Eurydice_" that we were enabled, by 3.30 P.M., to reach

Valparaiso in the midst of a profound calm, when our anchor was let go in

25 fathoms, good holding ground, in an excellent roomy berth, away from

the bustle of the merchantmen.

The voyage from Tahiti, 5000 nautical miles, was accomplished in 48 days,

and although a considerable portion must be marked as "lost," owing to our

having steered for the zero point of magnetic declination, we yet arrived

at our destination sooner than merchantmen which left Papeete before us,

or in company, but had steered south of the Paomotu group.

Mr. Flemmich, the Austrian Consul-general at Valparaiso, immediately sent

our letters on board, but the regular packet, which we had expected to

find here before us, had not come in, and the delay served to double the

anxiety of all on board, in view of the political clouds that were

hovering over our native land.

FOOTNOTES:

[60] The original spelling of the name of this island arose from ignorance

of the language. To the question, "_Eaha tera fenua?_" (What is the name

of this island?) the natives replied, "_O Taiti Oia._" The article was

thus taken for the first syllable and the island was called _O Taheite_.

Since then the thorough knowledge we have acquired of the language has

rectified the mistake. In Tahitian the two verbs "to be" and "to have" are

altogether wanting. _O_ is simply the nominative of an article which very

frequently is placed before a proper name to give it emphasis, or even for

the sake of euphony. _O_ accordingly is used in the above sentence merely

to imply "it is." A literal translation from Tahitian into any European

language is in most cases impossible. Occasionally one finds Tahiti

mentioned by the names of _La Sagittaria_, _King George the Third's

Island_, _Nouvelle Cythere_, and _Amat_.

[61] The derivation of the name Pomare, which has since become that of the

Tahitian dynasty, is purely accidental. The father of Otu was once

travelling among the mountains, and had to camp out in the open air. The

bad weather gave him a violent cold with hoarseness, which induced one of

his companions to name the night spent in such discomfort _Po-mare_, i. e.

a night (po) of cough (mare). The chieftain so acutely felt the pertinency

of this name that he adopted it as his _own_ name.--(Vide _Ellis,

Polynesian Researches_, vol. ii. p. 70.)

[62] These four missionaries were named Chrysostome Liansu, Francois

d'Assis Caret, Honore Laval, and Columban Murphy, an Irish catechist.

[63] Vide Annales de la Propagation de la Foi, No. xli. p. 31.

[64] "It is not surprising," he writes in a letter to his superiors, "that

on the arrival in this country, so long given over to the evil spirit of a

child of the _Sacre c[oe]ur_ (Divine heart), that enemy of all which is

good should have raged with redoubled fury, and that the Protestant

emissaries should have believed I came to overthrow their empire!!"--Vide

_Annales de la Propagation de la Foi_, No. lvi. p. 204.

[65] "I am," wrote Queen Pomare, to the then King Louis Philippe, "only

the ruler of a small, insignificant island. May wisdom, renown, and power

ever attend your Majesty! Cease then your anger, and pardon the error I

have committed."

[66] This additional article ran as follows: "The free exercise of the

Catholic religion is permitted in the Island of Tahiti, and in all the

other possessions of Queen Pomare. The French Catholics shall enjoy all

the privileges accorded to the Protestants, _but they shall nevertheless

not be entitled to meddle, under any pretext, in the religious affairs of

the country_. Done at Tahiti, 20th June, 1839."

[67] These two letters are dated, "Waiau, on the Island of Raiatea, 24th

Sept. 1844," whither Queen Pomare had withdrawn after the events of

November, 1843, and whence she only returned to Tahiti in 1847.

[68] According to the laws of the country, each married resident

contributes one franc per annum to the civil list; a widower with one

child, one franc; a widower without children, two francs; an unmarried

adult, two francs; an adult female unmarried, one franc; boys under

sixteen, and girls under fourteen, as also criminals and persons

incapacitated for labour, pay nothing. This is the only direct tax the

inhabitants are called upon to pay. The revenues of the island do not,

however, suffice to defray the expenses of the French occupation. Before

the arrival of the Europeans the Tahitians had no description of currency,

but had recourse in all business transactions to barter. The Protestant

missionaries were the first to introduce about L2000 of copper money,

which they had got struck in England for the purpose. This currency was

based upon a coin of the value of one half-penny. On one side was a ship,

and on the obverse the words "COPPER PREFERABLE TO PAPER." When the French

came to the island they flung this money into the sea, and forbade their

circulation under heavy penalties! At present the only coins used are

francs and _rera_ (about one-third of a franc=3-1/4_d._ nearly).

[69] This State paper is couched in very brief and intelligible terms in

both French and Tahitian, and runs as follows:--

"Her Majesty, the Queen of the Society Islands, and H.E. the Governor of

the French possessions in Eastern Oceania:--

"1st. Considering that there are no 'projets de loi' (Bills) to be

submitted for legislative enactment during 1859, and that assembly has

further no budget to vote;

"2nd. Considering moreover the considerable expenses to which the members

of the said assembly are put for their sojourn at Papeete during its

session;

"3rd. Considering Article 7 of the Ordinance of 28th April, 1847;

"Decide,--

"The Legislative Assembly of the States of the Protectorate will not meet

in session during the year 1859. Papeete, 10th February, 1859.

(Signed) "Saisset."

A similar notification drawn up in Tahitian, is countersigned by Queen

Pomare. One Tahitian, who was a member of the Legislative Assembly,

remarked to us, after reading the foregoing announcement in the _Moniteur

Tahitian_, "How then can any one say beforehand whether or no there are no

important questions to discuss?"

[70] M. Adam Kulczycki, who was at that period entrusted with the

management of native affairs, and is an accomplished Tahitian scholar,

besides occupying himself with astronomical and meteorological

observations, and geological investigations, has been for seventeen years

in the French service, and, a Pole by birth, served not without

distinction in the struggles of his native land for liberty.

[71] "_O Taiti (Tahiti), par G. Cuzent, Pharmacien de la Marine, &c. &c.

Paris, Librairie de Victor Masson, 1861._" It is a most valuable book, the

result for the most part of personal examination and illustration, and

arranged with much care and method.

[72] _Canaka_, in the Tahitian dialect, as in that of the Sandwich

Islands, is equivalent to MAN.

[73] At one service which we attended in Mr. Howe's chapel there were

fifty "communicants" present; a pupil of the missionary played the organ.

The Queen, too, and her family, who are strongly attached to the services

of the Evangelical Church, are frequently present at these Sunday

gatherings.

[74] Several of the girls who live in Mr. Howe's family are Catholics,

whose parents prefer they should be educated in a Protestant school rather

than not at all.

[75] The cost of the Catholic missions in Eastern Oceania amounts on the

average to frs. 100,000 (L4000) per annum. "The Society for the

Propagation of the Faith" (French) subscribes annually from frs. 3,000,000

to 4,000,000 (L120,000 to L160,000) for the races of heathendom. Of this

Oceania and Australia get from frs. 400,000 to frs. 500,000 (L16,000 to

L20,000).

[76] With reference to this, the following remarks are especially

noteworthy, made by M. Guizot at a time when France still possessed a

tribune and a parliament: "What particularly strikes me is that our

missionaries do not make new conquests for a Church already powerful; that

they do not extend the sphere of supremacy of the ecclesiastical

government. The Roman Catholic missionary arrives alone, ignorant of the

actual state of affairs, having none of the affections common to

humanity--in a word, better fitted to acquire an ascendant than to enlist

sympathy. The Protestant ministers are, on the contrary, family missions,

so to speak; so that a pagan population will more readily be led to regard

as brothers men who are husbands and fathers like themselves. Thus these

missions instruct by presenting specimens of Christian society side by

side with precepts of faith; the example of all the relations and

sentiments of domestic life, regulated according to the morality of the

Gospel they are sent to teach; a mode of instruction most assuredly not

the least efficacious, if not absolutely perfect." (Discours de M. Guizot

dans l'Assemblee Generale, du 11 Avril, 1826.)

[77] In the "_Lois Revisees dans l'Assemblee Legislative au mois de Mars

de l'annee 1848, pour la conduite de tous, sous le gouvernement du

Protectorat dans les terres de la Societe_," is the following stringent

passage, "The dance, known as Upa-Upa, is interdicted in the islands under

the Protectorate. On fete days and public festivals dancing is permitted,

but no indecent gestures will be tolerated." The Upa-Upa dates from the

period when the secret society of the Arreois, whose chief tenets were

drinking feasts, polygamy, and infanticide, existed over the greater part

of the islands of the Pacific. Moerenhout, in his "_Voyages aux iles du

grand Ocean_" (Paris, 1837, vol. i. p. 484), gives a very complete account

of this singular society, which has since entirely disappeared before the

zeal of Protestant missionaries.

[78] Experiments have also been made quite recently with coffee, which the

Government likewise fosters. The largest plantation is the property of a

Frenchman named Bonnefin, who, in 1859, grew as much as 8000 lbs. The high

price of labour, however, renders its production so dear that Tahitian

coffee costs 100 fr. (L4) the centum (100 lbs), or about ten pence the

pound, on the spot, whereas the best Costa Rica coffee costs only from L2

to L2 8_s._ the centum, or five pence to six pence the pound. The

Protectorate officials hope to supply this very perceptible lack of labour

by introducing into Tahiti, as field workers, the prisoners of war they

take in New Caledonia.

[79] Mr. Wilson, a missionary, estimated the population of Tahiti in 1797

at 16,000 souls. In 1848, when the French administration took its first

census, the native population amounted to 8082 (viz. 4466 males, 3616

females), the number of Europeans being 475 (428 males and 47 females). In

1858 it had fallen to 5988, or 2580 fewer than it had been 30 years before

(1829), when, according to a census taken by the English missionaries, the

population of Tahiti was 8568 of both sexes and all ages.

[80] Among the splendid specimens of the forest flora of Tahiti we

remarked, in addition to the cocoa-nut palm, the bread-fruit tree and

Pandanus, of which we shall presently speak more at length, on account of

their economic, industrial, and therapeutic qualities. The _Calophyllum

Inophyllum_ (Ati), _Inocarpus edulis_ (Masse), _Aleurites triloba_

(Tu-tui), _Rhus Taitense_ (Apape), _Ficus tinctoria_ (Mati), _Ficus

prolixa_(Ora), _Gleichenia Hermanni_ (Eanuhe), _Hibiscus tiliaceus_ (Purau

or Fao), _Lagenaria vulgaris_ (Hue), _Pisonia inermis_ (Puna tehea),

_Spondias dulcis_ (Bri), _Arundo Bambus_ (Ofe), _Tanghinia Maughas_

(Ruva), _Morinda citrifolia_ (Nono), _Guettenda speciosa_ (Tafano), _Boxa

Orellana_, &c. &c.

[81] According to Kulczycki's measurements the lake lies 430 metres (1401

feet) above the sea, and is 400 metres (1304 feet) in circumference, while

the precipitous peaks around are 1800 metres (5865 feet) above sea-level.

[82] According to the laws of Tahiti, whenever the entire male descendants

of a chief have become extinct, his eldest female offspring becomes chief

of the district, sits as such in the legislative assembly, and has a voice

in the administration of justice. At present there are five

chieftainesses, who are members of the Tahitian parliament. Their husbands

have no political influence whatever, except as the husbands of these

ladies!

[83] _Carabus_ (Anglice Calaboose) is a corruption of the Spanish word

_Calabozo_, a prison. The _Carabus_ of Papeete is a sort of pound in which

drunken people or mischievous vagabonds are confined, and whence they are

released on payment of 5 or 10 francs. These mulcts or convictions form a

not unimportant source of revenue, and are of twofold demoralizing

operation; for while it is the interest of the police on the one hand to

make as many arrests as possible, so as to insure a larger sum for

division, the wretched, sensual Tahitian girls find in the prosecution of

the filthy trade that has brought them within the clutch of the police the

best means of procuring their release!

[84] Queen Pomare finds herself entirely dependent upon the French

Protectorate. On the slightest symptom of asserting her position she is

met by a stoppage of her allowance, and as, in consequence of the rather

opulent mode of life adopted by the generous-hearted lady, the incomings

and outgoings are apt not to square, her pecuniary straits are not

infrequently made use of for political purposes.

[85] Obviously a corruption of the French "mouton," the popular name for a

spy.

[86] Of this expensive fruit, which grows in large quantities on the

island, and only needs to be gathered, there are exported annually some

five or six ship-loads, worth about fr. 200,000 (L8000), all which find

their way to California, where 1000 oranges are worth from $40 to $60 (L8

8_s._ to L12 12_s._), whereas, a similar quantity is worth in Tahiti at

the outside L1 to L1 4_s._

[87] Besides the cocoa-nut oil and arrow-root, which are at present

exported from Tahiti and constitute its chief trade, the produce of the

neighbouring islands might be conveniently passed through Tahiti. The

pearl oysters (_Meleagrina Margaretifera_), which are usually dredged for

in the months of January, February, March, and April, come chiefly from

the Paomotu and Gambier groups. The latter-named group, however, only

sends about 500 tons of these annually, worth about fr. 500 to fr. 600

(L20 to L24) per ton. In the year 1859, the entire importation of these

was contracted for by a merchant of Papeete at $140 (L29 10_s._) per ton.

The natives of Gambier, accustomed to dive, use to bring up the pearl

oysters from a depth of from 150 to 180 feet.

[88] On the island of Eimeo, or Morea, lying off Tahiti, the area of which

is 13,237 hectares, there is a table-land about the centre of the island,

surrounded by a semi-circular range of lofty precipices, which would be

found thoroughly fit for cattle pasture. The cultivation of the grape and

of European vegetables might also be profitably undertaken.

[89] Here also we encountered this useful plant, which was first

introduced into Tahiti in 1851, by means of seeds from Paris. Of these

twenty-five were sown, which within three months gave a sufficient return

of seed to admit of the cultivation of the sorgho being extended through a

number of districts. One year later, the crop amounted already to about

2100 kilogrammes (4900 lbs., or two tons and a quarter), which were

disposed of at 1-1/2d. per kilogramme (somewhat under a penny per lb.).

[90] A gallon of cocoa-nut oil is worth, by way of barter for goods, about

one franc and a half, and for specie one franc. The adjoining islands

abound in cocoa-nuts, Anaa, one of the Paomotu group, being capable of

delivering from 300 to 400 tons of oil per annum.

[91] The fermented juice of the orange, the pine-apple, the _pandanus_

fruit, the _spondias dulcis_, and the wild bananas, were also used in

former times for the preparation of intoxicants. Since the introduction of

European spirits, the natives discriminate all foreign drinks as

_Ava-papaa_, their own being named _Ava-maohi_.

[92] Before the arrival on the island of the Europeans, Tahitian society

was divided into three classes: viz. Arii, or chiefs; Raatira, or

land-holders, of whom the most distinguished in each district were called

Tataui; and, lastly, Manahune, or Tenantry at will. To the latter class

belonged all prisoners of war. Between the Arii and Raatira there was a

middle class, the Eietoai, corresponding to the European title of

Honourable. Latterly the name _Tacana_ has come into almost universal use

for the Arii, being in fact nothing but a corruption of the English word

"Governor."

[93] These calculations are merely approximative. The Custom House at

Papeete has sufficient documents, but it keeps them secret, apparently for

political reasons, if we may credit the remark of a Tahitian. "It is not

wished to let all the world know that we are _not_ in a prosperous state."

[94] Letter concerning the actual state of the island of Tahiti, addressed

to H.M. the Emperor Napoleon III., by Alexander Salmon. London, Effingham

Wilson, 1858.

[95] The French garrison in Tahiti and Eimeo (Morea), including the

administrative officials, numbers about 400 men. The Governor receives,

besides extras, L1200 pay; the _Commandant particulier_ draws other L800,

in addition to which both these officers draw _allowances_ as officers in

the Imperial navy (13_s._ 4_d._ to L1 per diem.)

[96] We had an opportunity while at Papeete of obtaining some particulars

of this renowned French penal settlement from the mouth of a person whom

no one will be likely to accuse of exaggeration. M. de la Richerie, who,

while we were at Papeete, filled the position of Imperial commissary, and

is the present Governor of Tahiti, was for four years (1854-57) director

of the penal settlement at Cayenne. During the period of his authority the

entire population consisted of from 5000 to 6000 prisoners, 1500 garrison,

200 free settlers, and from 16,000 to 18,000 negroes. The expense of

keeping on foot this small colony was not less than from L160,000 to

L200,000. The mortality among all classes, free as well as prisoners, was

perfectly appalling, averaging from 28 to 33 per cent.!! Of 6000

prisoners, 2000 died in one year; out of 36 medical men, 18 died in the

discharge of their duties. The number of fever-stricken in the hospital

was never less than from 500 to 600!! The director once entered an

apartment in which above 250 of the unfortunate political criminals lay on

their sick beds. He inquired of the physician in attendance how long they

were likely to live? Possibly a year, was the reply. "_Depechez-vous

donc_," said the director, as he turned from the unhappy wretches, who had

no resource except the hospital, and, sick in mind and body, longed

earnestly for the day which should see their wretched couches vacated for

the calm tranquillity of death. M. de la Richerie was of opinion that no

political convict lives more than four or five years in Cayenne, and that

even the free settler cannot withstand the deadly influence of the climate

above ten years. But the government founded on the 2nd December gives

itself little concern. The utility of the system of deportation has been

fully understood, and is unsparingly carried out. The time seems to be at

hand when all Frenchmen who venture to challenge the Napoleonic ideas,

will be banished their native country, nay, exiled from Europe.

[97] Shortly after his arrival in Valparaiso, Longomasino went to Serena,

a city in Chili of 20,000 inhabitants, near some rich copper-mines, where

he occupied himself with editing a newspaper in Spanish.

[98] Chart of curves of equal magnetic variations, 1858, by Frederick

Evans, Master, R.N.

[99] This colic stuck to the ship for nearly eight months, and out of 36

cases, the shortest time it took to run its course was nine days, the

longest 94.

[100] One main source of anxiety, which determined Adams to request the

good offices of the British Government, was the scanty supply of

drinking-water. There was at this time only one available spring of fresh

water, and this supply was so small that two quarts of water were all that

each family could be allowed during the day.

[Illustration: The Lasso]

XXI.

Valparaiso.

Stay from 17th April to 11th May, 1859.

Importance of Chile for German emigration.--First impressions of

Valparaiso.--Stroll through the city.--Commercial relations of

Chile with Australia and California.--Quebrada de Juan Gomez.--

The roadstead.--The Old Quarter and Fort Rosario.--Cerro Algre.--

Fire Companies.--Abadie's nursery-garden.--Campo Santo.--The

German community and its club.--A compatriot festival in honour

of the _Novara_.--Journey to Santiago de Chile.--University.--

National Museum.--Observatory.--Industrial and agricultural

schools.--Professor Don Ignacio Domey Ko.--Audience of the

President of the Republic.--Don Manuel Montt and his political

opponents.--Family life in Santiago.--Excursion trip on the

southern railroad.--Maipu Bridge.--Melepilla.--The Hacienda of

Las Esmeraldas.--Chilean hospitality.--Return to Valparaiso.--

Quillota.--The German colony in Valdivia.--Colonization in the

Straits of Magellan.--Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in

honour of the _Novara_.--Extraordinary voyage of a damaged

ship.--Departure of the _Novara_.--Voyage round Cape Horn.--The

Falkland Islands.--The French corvette _Eurydice_.--The Sargasso

sea.--Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.--Hopes

disappointed and curiosity excited.--Passage through the Azores

channel.--A vexatious calm.

The free State of Chile enjoys a higher degree of tranquillity than any of

the former Spanish dependencies of South America, and in climate, in

fertility, and in liberal institutions, transcends all others in affording

the European emigrant the best prospects of a prosperous future.

Chile possesses a constitution which many a European state might envy, the

civil freedom, which forms the basis of all laws, and just now is so

eagerly debated and investigated in some parts of Europe, having been in

practical operation here for upwards of a quarter of a century, during

which it has materially contributed to develope the resources of the

country and the prosperity of its inhabitants. Owing to the disturbed

state of the American Confederation, hitherto the El Dorado of European

emigration, countries such as Chile, of an extent similar to that of

England and Greece together, and with a population barely exceeding one

million of men, possess the very highest attraction. True, at the period

of our visit the long-enjoyed political tranquillity was for a while

disturbed by a revolutionary convulsion, but it has cost neither time nor

trouble to suppress it, upon which the leaders, more ambitious than

patriotic, took to flight, and public order and safety were reinstated

upon the broad basis of a constitution, which was wisely drawn up so as to

admit of keeping pace with the times.

We beheld Chile under anything but its normal favourable aspect; many of

the leading families of the country had been plunged by political troubles

into grief and mourning; trade was falling off; the ordinary buoyant

disposition of the Chileno had given place to painful anxiety; yet all we

heard and saw during our stay at so unpropitious a period, only served to

strengthen our conviction that a great and splendid future awaits this

delightful country.

He who merely lands at a seaport such as Valparaiso, and wanders through

its lengthy but elegant streets, carries away with him no just conception

of Chile and the life of the country beyond the Andes. Everything about

the town, houses, shops, and population, has quite a European aspect, so

that the stranger walking through some of the streets with their lofty

grey edifices, gay signs, and large and splendid magazines, abounding in

everything that can minister to human luxury, might readily fancy himself

transported to some northern European capital. Nothing is here to tell of

its being the native country of the Araucanian, nothing recalls that

singular national aboriginal type, and it is only when contemplating the

majestic forms of the surrounding landscape that he can realize that he is

actually in the proximity of Andes, "giant of the Western Star."

One of our first walks through the city, the buildings of which extend,

row after row, for a considerable distance along the bay, and surmount the

hillocks (_Quebradas_) which rise at a short distance from the shore,

brought us to the _Aduana_, or Custom-house, one of the most extensive,

beautiful, and commodious buildings in the city, which, commenced in 1850

by a Frenchman, was finished six years later by an American, named John

Brown. The ground on which the various buildings are erected was quite

recently gained from the sea by embankment, as was also done in the case

of the existing _Plaza de Armas_, and the wide and graceful _Calle de

Planchada_, both which sites were under water less than twenty years

since!

The Custom-house buildings, including the vast solid warehouses, cost the

State more than 1,000,000 Spanish piastres (L210,000), but form the finest

and most convenient edifice of the kind throughout South America. An

enormous quantity of the most valuable merchandise, which used to be

scattered about among private houses or disposed of, are now stored in

large, dry, well-lighted apartments, and can without much trouble or delay

be got at and taken away. About 200 officials are at work in spacious

offices registering the trade of the State, which is in a very flourishing

state, owing to the immense importation of the most various foreign

fabrics, paid for in a not less extensive export of Chilean products,

chiefly corn and precious metals. The start taken by the country in

commerce and agriculture, as also the development of its natural

resources, dates from the period of the discovery of the Californian

gold-fields. Chile, so admirably suited for agriculture, very speedily

became the granary of the gold-country, and set about making the most of

its manifold advantages. Wheat, barley, beans, increased so much in value,

that many fields which, on account of comparative poverty, had been

suffered to lie fallow hitherto, now got under cultivation, and the former

scanty means of the majority of the proprietors of the soil was at once

exchanged for unexampled prosperity. The influx of specie did not fail to

stimulate activity in every other occupation as well, and was mainly

instrumental in working the mines more systematically, and thus making

them more productive than hitherto.

The exportation to California speedily increased ten-fold, and within two

years had increased nearly 2,500,000 piastres (L525,000).

When the gold fever had a few years later abated somewhat in California,

and the settlers there began to grow grain for themselves, the Chilean

exports thither dwindled away, till, about 1857, they had sunk to a

minimum hardly worth mentioning. But meanwhile a second, though rather

more distant, market was found for Chilean exports, by the discovery of

not less productive gold-fields in Australia, the imports into which from

Valparaiso, despite the enormous distance, proved so immensely

remunerative that the ventures of former years to California were quite

eclipsed.[101]

Leaving the Custom-house buildings, we climbed up the Quebrada de Juan

Gomez, one of the numerous narrow valleys or clefts which, spangled on

both acclivities with villas, usually thatched with shingle, impart to the

environs of Valparaiso so peculiar an appearance. The most extraordinary

of these is the _Cerro de Carretas_, a hill from 200 to 300 feet high, to

the slopes of which cling a variety of filthy wicker huts of the poorest

sort, which, regarded from a distance, have a picturesque effect. On a

closer inspection, however, they exhibit utter destitution and degraded

poverty. At the highest point of the steep Quebrada de Juan Gomez are some

fortified lines recently thrown up, together with the artillery barracks

(_Cuartel de Artilleria_), with accommodation for 800 men. The Chilean

troops are pretty well equipped, but have a by no means imposing air; they

appear to be patient and persevering, fit for encountering great

privations and overcoming obstacles, rather than courageous, or eager for

the fray. There is, in short, a total absence of "dash" about them. From

the barracks one enjoys a magnificent view over the city and the environs,

hemmed in on all hands by the ocean. The roadstead greatly resembles that

of Trieste, and, like the latter, suffers much from N.W. winds. The

merchantmen lie at anchor in pretty regular order, with the double object

that, in case of a sudden "norther," they may not suffer from ships

dragging their anchors, and may be able at once to make sail if necessary.

Although at the commencement of the winter season (May to October) of the

southern hemisphere, when frequent storms from north and north-west make

the roads of Valparaiso, if not dangerous, at least hazardous, the

majority of sailing vessels make for other better-sheltered harbours along

the west coast, yet there were still about 180 vessels of all sizes and

every flag lying at anchor off the town. The most unpleasant and severe

months are June and July, although it is at that period less the violence

of the gales than the tremendous sea, which occasionally hurls a ship, if

not properly made fast, into a position of danger, and occasionally

interrupts all communication with the shore for days together. A season

sometimes passes over, however, without the occurrence of any elemental

strife. It would be of the highest interest to be able to ascertain the

periodicity of the return of severe winters, which there can be little

doubt obeys some natural law.

The barometer is, at Valparaiso, a pretty correct index of the wind that

may be expected. The more the mercury sinks, the more perceptible will be

the N. or N.W. wind. Rain and foggy weather usually precede these winds,

and continue till the wind draws somewhat to the west, upon which the

mercury rises and the weather improves. North or north-west winds are,

however, as a rule never of long continuance, and indeed frequently

continue only a few hours, because so soon as the first burst is over, the

trade-wind, upon whose limits it has encroached, soon begins to drive it

before it, under the influence of an air-wave from the southward, and

ships which, with the view of suffering as little as possible from north

or north-west winds, keep as far from the lighthouse as possible, have

nothing to dread from even a heavy "norther," if all proper precautions

are taken, and their anchors and cables hold.[102]

In the harbour were the screw steamers _Maipu_ and _Esmeralda_, and the

paddle screw steamer _Maule_, belonging to the very insignificant navy of

the Chilean Republic. From the barracks we passed up several Quebradas to

the ancient "Cuartel" and Fort Rosario, two buildings remarkable enough in

their way, the erection of which dates back to an early age, as they in

fact belong to the period when Valparaiso had only 400 population, and was

part of the assize-circuit of Casa Blanca. The latter, however, which we

pass on the road to Santiago, is still an insignificant settlement, while

Valparaiso has become the wealthiest and most important commercial

emporium along the whole west coast of South America, and boasts a

population of above 60,000 souls. There are also in this vicinage numbers

of small filthy one-storeyed huts or _ranchos_ built of cane, which seem

as though hanging to the acclivities, and are not intended to last any

time. As it rarely rains at Valparaiso, and then but little, and the

temperature being tolerably mild throughout the year, the poor have little

occasion to provide themselves shelter against cold or boisterous weather,

or to build strong and solid habitations. Moreover, there is perceptible

among the Chilean populace, as among all other Spanish Americans, an

innate trait of character, in the shape of indolence and indisposition to

labour, as they usually strike work for the day as soon as they have

earned enough for the daily necessaries of life, which they can supply for

a trifle. Nay, we are told that it is by no means unusual for

day-labourers, as soon as they have earned their day's wage for their

principal want, to reply in an indifferent tone to the offer of farther

work, "Tengo mis dos reals" (I have my two reals)![103]

Not all the Quebradas, however, round Valparaiso are infested with

wretched huts; some are occupied by tasteful and comfortable residences,

especially the Cerro Algre, where at present a considerable number of

Germans reside, and which is conspicuous for the number of elegant little

villas, as also by the cordiality and hospitality there lavished upon

strangers. Cerro Algre is one of the most charming, delightful, and

salubrious spots in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, with a magnificent

panorama, although not so fashionable a resort as the Almendral, which,

since the recent appalling conflagration of 1858, reducing within a few

hours the finest portion of the city to ashes, has been rebuilt with

numbers of handsome edifices, and has at the same time been widened and

extended.

The frequency of fires, and the totally inadequate means and appliances

for their extinction at the disposal of the authorities, led to a number

of foreigners settled in Valparaiso organizing a Fire-brigade

(_Pomperos_), in which the _elite_ of the community shortly after were

enrolled. The founders and first company were the English, after whom came

the Germans, French, Spaniards, Italians, and lastly the Chilenos

following suit. A hook and ladder company, consisting of English, Germans,

and North Americans, was set on foot in 1850. All the arrangements are

modelled after the Fire Companies of the United States. The engines were

imported from New York, and cost over L800 a piece. The French displayed

the greatest luxury in the splendid uniforms of their company and the

elegant fittings of their very beautiful engine; the Germans, on the other

hand--not always the case with them--show but a very simple attirement,

but are behind no other nation in the zeal and courage with which their

fire company performs its self-imposed duties.

Valparaiso is sadly deficient in suitable promenades, and consequently

strangers must not be surprised, should they be invited to take a walk to

the Cemetery (_Campo Santo_), in order to promenade there among cypress

alleys, and pretentious-looking memorials of the departed.

The Campo Santo is situated on one of the rising grounds behind the city,

and with its clumps of trees and flower-plots, looks in fact much more

like a promenade-garden than a grave-yard. Each Catholic fraternity

(_hermandad_) has its own place assigned it for interment of the dead.

Beautiful and costly monuments are raised over some of the recent graves,

like so many testimonies in marble of the influence exercised even upon

the resting-places of the dead, by the accumulated wealth of the last

twenty years. Close beside the Catholic cemetery is that of the

Protestants, which, like the other, is neatly laid out and kept in

excellent order, but on the whole impresses the visitor less by the

splendour of the monuments and the elegance of the inscriptions, than by

its air of solemn simplicity.

Not far from the spot where repose their dead is the place of worship of

the Protestant community, a slight but neatly-finished edifice of wood,

somewhat like the "chapels" of the English colonies. This is a pleasing

evidence of the tolerant spirit of the Chilean Government, in strong

contrast with most other Catholic states in South America, where religious

intolerance of heterodoxy goes the length of prohibiting all public

profession of their faith.

Valparaiso is as badly off for fine open squares and monumental erections

as for promenades. The Government Square, with its neat Exchange, and

Victoria Square, with its Theatre, are neither by their antiquity, nor

their general appearance, calculated to make any impression upon the

traveller. There is great need of large, good hotels upon the European

plan; and as there are no cheerful, comfortable cafes, to serve as a

rallying-point for the male sex after the business of the day is over, the

traveller is usually dependent for society upon being introduced at the

different clubs, founded by the various nationalities. Of these the German

was the finest; but, in consequence of their beautiful, spacious club

having fallen a sacrifice to the recent conflagration, the members had to

seek temporary accommodation in rather confined apartments, which greatly

hampered their desire to show all due honour to our Expedition. Not less

cordial, however, was our reception, nor the warm interest taken by the

entire German community of Valparaiso in the scientific attainments of

certain of its members.[104] Nowhere did the old German hospitality shine

forth with more serene lustre than among the Germans of Chile, nowhere is

there a more splendid manifestation of the vigorous intellectual life of

the good old stock, nowhere a more thorough expression of German unity in

foreign countries! Exercising a powerful influence in society, as

merchants, physicians, professors, naturalists, astronomers, chemists,

engineers, architects, &c., the activity of the German in Chile in every

avocation of life has not been without a permanent influence on the

destinies of this free State, and has already left in its institutions

many a trace of German origin.

One of our most pleasing reminiscences is undoubtedly that of the

magnificent natural fete got up by the German residents of Valparaiso in

honour of the _Novara_ one heavenly Easter morning, which came off at the

beautiful Quebradas of Quilpue, about twelve miles from the port. Quilpue

is a station on the railroad which runs from Valparaiso into the

interior, and is intended to form the communication between it and

Santiago de Chile, 110 miles distant, but of which at present only the

first 40 miles have been completed.

A special train, its locomotive neatly decorated with garlands of flowers

and banneroles, conveyed the guests, 150 in number, to Quilpue. From this

station the joyous party marched with the German flag at the head to one

of the neighbouring dells, which seemed intended by nature to serve as the

site of pic-nics in the open air. Here, under a number of spacious and

elegant tents, we found long tables set out, which a cloud of waiters and

cooks seemed engaged in loading with every delicacy that could tempt the

palate.

The company wandered through the adjoining glades, or lay stretched out in

the shade, in a delicious ecstasy of music and song. The alarm of war,

which at the moment was booming through Europe, had found its way even to

the foot of the Chilean Andes, and imparted to the festival a political

feeling. Although the then state of political matters in Austria was by no

means such as to fill the mind with enthusiasm for it, yet all the

feelings of the German of Valparaiso were enlisted on the side of Austria

in her struggle with France; less out of sympathy with her policy as then

displayed than out of hatred of Napoleonic assumption.

Thus, in some of the after-dinner speeches which followed in due course,

as well as in the inspiring songs with which the entertainment was

enlivened, there was free expression given to this sentiment. A Bavarian

physician and pharmaceutist, Dr. Aquinas Ried, whose house we found one

of the most pleasant points of cordial re-union for the members of the

Expedition, had composed a chorus for male voices, called "Welcome to the

_Novara_," which he led himself with some of the members of the German

Choral Union, the closing strophe of which,

"Sei einig nur Germania,

So stehest du auch einzig da,

Das grosse Vaterland!"

was received with enthusiastic applause, and was greeted with deafening

cheers.

This widely-expressed sympathy for German nationality found expression in

various other ways, not the least conspicuous being the marked courtesy to

the Expedition manifested by the natives of Chile itself, and in an

especial degree at Santiago, the capital, where public officers,

naturalists, and lovers of science vied with each other in welcoming such

of our number as went over to spend a few days there, and in aiding them

to carry out the object they had in view.

With these scientific aims were united others of a political nature, our

Commodore having been honoured with H.I. Majesty's commands to enter into

a commercial treaty with the free Republic of Chile. For this purpose

Commodore von Wuellerstorf had gone to Santiago in company with the

Austrian Consul-General, M. J. F. Flemmich, and the author of this

narrative, the two geologists and the draughtsman of the Expedition having

set out thither some days before.

The journey to the capital of Chile is not among the most inviting. There

are numerous crests of mountains (_questas_) to be crossed _en route_,

which at many points are steep, not to speak of the bad construction of

the roads, and the little care taken to keep them in order. Frequently the

carriage rolls along the very verge of a profound abyss; the soil seems

about to give way, gravel and stones plunge thundering down, while neither

wall nor wooden railing intervenes to prevent the traveller from following

them. Moreover, the vehicles in ordinary use are not calculated to

diminish the perils of such a journey, especially if it is an object to

arrive speedily at one's destination, when the regular national coach, the

Birloche, as it is called, must be used. It is a sort of double-seated

two-wheeled cabriolet drawn by two horses, while five or six horses trot

alongside, which furnish the change of horses when required. The driver

rides one of the horses, as in Havannah, and is wonderfully skilful in his

way. He usually wears the national brown-covered _poncho_ (a quadrangular

piece of cloth with an opening in the centre through which the head

passes), a small straw hat, linen pants, and on his bare feet enormous,

heavy spurs, sometimes fastened by a piece of leather, sometimes with a

mere cord.

We pushed forward without stoppage as far as Casa Blanca, one of the most

ancient settlements of Chile, which, however, as previously remarked, has

always preserved its village-like aspect. Here we fell in with several

very handsome ladies, elegantly dressed, each sporting a gigantic

crinoline. They had come from the neighbouring _haciendas_ to Casa Blanca

to be present at a race-meeting. Having dispatched a hasty meal, we pushed

busily forwards, and reached the village of Curacavi, where travellers to

the capital usually pass the night. No great provision is made here in the

shape of good inns, for considerable as is the traffic of loaded waggons,

conveying merchandise and produce, the number of travellers is very

limited, and even the few whom business or pleasure induces to visit the

capital are for the most part natives of the country, or Europeans long

resident, who usually take up their quarters with acquaintances or

business connections, and are therefore exempt from all necessity to look

after their comfort. Travellers who spend the night in such inns generally

carry with them insect-powder, as the number of fleas and other

troublesome insects is legion!!

At the capital, Santiago, the traveller is somewhat better off as regards

houses of entertainment, and the Hotel Ingles (English Hotel), kept by a

Frenchman, may not only boast of elegant apartments and an excellent

cuisine, but surpasses all European hotels in expensiveness.[105]

Santiago de Chile lies in a beautiful fertile valley, and would present a

much more imposing appearance, were it not that, owing to the frequency of

earthquakes, the majority of the houses were built only one storey high.

The long straight streets intersecting each other at right angles, are in

a state calling loudly for sanitary regulation; uneven, badly ballasted,

with huge ruts at the sides, so that it is difficult to say whether the

foot-passenger or the charioteer is the worst off. Much of this is due to

the number of heavy two-wheeled _carretas_ or country waggons, drawn by

six or eight oxen, in which all produce is conveyed from the interior of

the country to the harbour, and foreign merchandise transported from the

sea-board to the capital. On our journey hither we counted 124 of these

lumbering vehicles, creaking and rattling on their way; but there are on

the average 300 such on the road between Santiago and Valparaiso. A good

deal of the less bulky merchandise is also carried on horse or mule-back.

Of striking public buildings Santiago is almost as destitute as

Valparaiso, the Mint,[106] which dates from the time of Spanish Supremacy,

being the sole building worth noticing. The city also boasts of a Plaza, a

large quadrangular, open spot, of no special elegance, although it has on

one side the Cathedral, still in process of erection, on the other a range

of private dwellings with arcades beneath, in which nestle swarms of

stall-vendors, besides several Government buildings which are concentrated

here. Of public promenades, the Alameda, a long, wide poplar-alley, is,

beyond all question, the finest, as well as most frequented, especially on

Sundays and holidays. The period of our visit, the winter of the Southern

Hemisphere was not favourable to our carrying away a correct impression of

the public walks at their gayest, especially when, as in our case, the

weather is raw and gloomy, and the mournful rustle of dead leaves sounds

like the elegy of departed gaiety. Thus, for example, the dam along the

sides of the river, the waters of which in the rainy season swell into a

furious torrent, but the bed of which was now quite dry, forms in summer a

delightful walk; whereas in winter it is only visited by students,

preachers meditative of their next discourse, or lovers oblivious of the

elements.

There is in Santiago a surprising degree of intellectual activity, and

great readiness in promoting scientific discovery. The philosophical

works, which have of late years made their appearance, are deserving of

the highest praise. The educated foreigner is not regarded askance here

with envious eye, nor, because he happens not to be a native, kept in the

back-ground, and refused admission to positions of public trust and

influence; he is rather encouraged in his exertions by the example of such

men as Domeyko, Philippi, Pissis, Moesta, &c. The well-known costly work

in 24 volumes, describing the physical and political history of Chile, was

composed by a Frenchman named Claudio Gay,[107] the expense of printing it

in Paris being borne by the Government. The annals of the University of

Chile appear in regular publication each year from 1843, and comprise

choice though miscellaneous information upon almost every topic of

scientific interest.

One of the leading and most highly informed professors in this principal

seat of education, Don Ignacio Domeyko, a Pole by birth, but who has made

Chile his second home, very kindly acted as cicerone to our Expedition,

and furnished us with most valuable details as to the present state of

public instruction.

The University of San Felipe was founded in 1738, but the present system

of instruction has only been in operation since 1842. The joint Council of

the five professors of the faculties of philosophy and the humanities,

physical and mathematical science, medicine, judicial and political

instruction and theology, are intrusted with the supervision of the entire

national education, each faculty having also the privilege of naming

corresponding members, and in other respects occupying the position of

similar institutions in Europe. The President of the Republic is the chief

patron. The amount expended by the State annually in public instruction,

is upwards of L120,000, an enormous amount considering the small

population.[108]

The University is also charged with the custody of the national library of

32,000 volumes, embracing works upon every subject of scientific

inquiry,[109] and the museum of natural history, in which are very

complete ethnographical and geological collections. The most remarkable

object in the latter is undoubtedly the native stag, _Huemul_, or _Guamul_

(_Cervus Chilensis_), which figures conspicuously on the Chilean

escutcheon, and was long regarded as a fabulous animal, as it had never

been seen alive. However, in the year 1833, the specimens (male and

female) at present in the museum were shot in the Cordillera de Campania,

within a short period of each other.[110]

The observatory was in temporary quarters on an eminence in the midst of

the city, but within a few years the new building would be completed,

which was being constructed by Government for astronomical purposes,

outside the town not far from the school of agriculture. The instruments

in use were chiefly provided by the well-known North American traveller

Gillis, who for many years carried on astronomical observations for the

American Government in South America, especially in Chile, and when his

labours were completed, left his instruments with the Chilean Government

by way of indemnity. The management of the observatory is intrusted to

Dr. Moesta, a German astronomer well-known in astronomical circles.

The school of Technology (_Escuela de Artes y oficios_), founded in 1845

by a French gentleman named Jariez, and, like the preceding, assisted by a

grant from Government, has met with great support and success. In this

eminently practical institution upwards of a hundred pupils are being

taught the construction of machinery, and the various processes connected

therewith, the children of poor parents having a preference. The pupils

are boarded, lodged, and clothed gratuitously, and have therefore nothing

to do but to remain four years in the establishment, after which they

serve Government six years longer, assisting in the public works at a

given remuneration, or if there should be no need for their services in

the latter department, they are at liberty immediately on the expiry of

their apprenticeship to follow what occupation they please. One young

Chileno was pointed out to us who had risen from being a pupil to the

position of foreman, and was now engaged in imparting instruction in

drawing and mathematics.

As important in its way as the Escuela de Artes, and equally useful in the

interests of science and industry, is the _Quinta normal_ for the landed

proprietary. This model farm, founded in 1851, and arranged upon the

French system, is situated outside the town, and consists of a tolerably

extensive plot of land, which includes within its limits the new

observatory and the botanical gardens. The present director is a graduate

of the Ecole Centrale of Paris, and his indefatigable activity speedily

insured the prosperity of the undertaking. It is divided into two

departments, a school of agriculture proper, and a veterinary college. The

course, which comprises agriculture, botany, and treatment of diseases of

animals, besides the elements of chemistry, physiology, geology, zoology,

and geometry, besides geography and drawing, extends over three years,

every pupil educated at the expense of the State being required to devote

six years to the public service. Government has reserved to itself thirty

free presentations, which it may increase to sixty.

The small but well-arranged museum contains an admirably selected

collection of the most important esculents and grasses suitable for

foddering cattle, as also the conditions of soil which are best suited for

growing these, besides a number of different fruits, executed in _papier

mache_, with remarkable fidelity to nature, belonging to trees and plants,

cultivated at the Institute, with the purpose of ultimately selling them

at the proper time to farmers, and thus not only do justice to agriculture

as a science, but increase its own revenue, not to speak of the benefits,

direct and indirect, to the country at large. The purchaser is thus

enabled to judge for himself what description of fruit will be likely to

prove most remunerative to him, while the establishment at the same time

realizes a considerable sum by this sale of seedlings, plants, and seeds,

in a country where hitherto so little attention has been bestowed on

high-class agriculture.

The zealous and far-seeing director is also endeavouring to induce the

Chilean landowner to grow turnips, and other tubers, which might be used

for foddering the cattle in winter, and so lead to a more economical

system of cultivation, and consequent improvement of the race of farmers

themselves. At present, where this kind of farming is utterly unknown, as

soon as winter sets in, many a landowner finds himself compelled, year

after year, to sell or kill his cattle owing to want of fodder, while he

himself goes out as a day labourer, till the return of spring. The

introduction and extension of such a system, which would enable him to

maintain his herds and flocks all the year round, would put a stop to his

present unsettled mode of life, improve his farm, and impart increased

comfort and security to every relation of his business.

At this _Escuela normal_ we likewise found the sorgho, or Chinese

sugar-cane, in course of cultivation with great success. Though the

temperature is occasionally so low in Santiago as to form, during the

winter, ice[111] about two lines in thickness, the sorgho does not seem to

suffer any damage, but gives its three crops each year, besides being much

used for fodder. The first seeds of this species of grass, which has

within four years made the circuit of the globe, and is now profitably

cultivated in almost every part of the world, were imported into Chile

from the free States of North America.

Professor Domeyko, who possesses a most admirable geological and

mineralogical collection, presented the Expedition with a choice selection

of interesting and costly ores from the copper, silver, cobalt, and

quicksilver mines of the country; and although the rich stores of

publications and geological specimens with which the director of the

Geological Institution of the Austrian Empire, Counsellor Haidinger, had

provided for the purpose to present them to scientific institutions in the

different foreign countries visited, was already exhausted and done away

with, yet we had at least the satisfaction of learning that the Imperial

Institute of Geology,[112] whose eminent director has extended throughout

the world the renown of Austria, as a pioneer of geology, maintains

already an active correspondence with the managers of the museum of the

Chilean Republic.

Very soon after our arrival at Santiago, our Commodore was honoured with a

special audience by the President of the Republic, H.E. Don Manuel Montt.

The Commodore was accompanied by the Austrian Consul-general and the

author of this narrative. The reception came off in a plain but

elegantly-furnished apartment of the palace-like Government House, the

style of which is quite modern. Don Manuel Montt, a short, under-sized

gentleman, with dark strongly-marked features, and straight, somewhat

bristly, hair, had during the recent troubles displayed more courage and

energy than his external appearance would have led one to expect, and used

his dictatorial authority with such discretion and prudence, as to excite

the astonishment and respect of all well-wishers of his native land. He

was attended at the interview by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Don

Jeronimo Urmeneta, a man of frank, attractive manners, whose youth was

spent in the United States, and who speaks English fluently.

The conversation turned chiefly upon the proposed commercial and

navigation treaty projected by the Imperial Government, a sketch of which

in the Spanish language was read over to the President by the Commodore.

Don Manuel (as the highest authority in the free State of Chile was called

by the people) expressed the utmost readiness to carry out this

arrangement, and repeatedly avowed his wish to enter into intimate

relations with the Austrian Government, and execute all necessary papers,

which could assist an object fraught with such benefits to both nations.

He also spoke of the desirability of endeavouring to increase the

intercourse between the scientific institutes of Chile and Austria, and in

token of the interest he took in the objects of the Expedition, presented

a copy of Gay's splendid work, as also an extensive collection of all the

historical and statistical papers illustrative of Chilean history during

the last ten years.

The hope indulged by the Commodore of being able to get the preliminaries

of the Treaty signed before our departure, were unfortunately frustrated

by the serious political events which then entirely occupied the attention

of the various members of Government. It was necessary by moderate

measures and an energetic policy to crush out the Revolution, which had

broken out about two months prior to our arrival, before it had attained

uncontrollable dimensions. The insurgents in this case were not vehement

hot-headed Republicans, desirous of further liberty, but reactionary

Ultramontanes (of whom there always are some, even in a Republic), who

wished to overthrow the existing Liberal Government, and substitute in its

place a more flexible cabinet, more dependent upon party tactics. The

dread lest the insurrection should spread till it resulted in civil war,

which would throw back for years the prosperity of the country, proved to

be well-grounded. For several of the most prominent and distinguished

citizens of Chile, as also the clerical party always so powerful in

Spanish American colonies, had united with the insurgents, whose youthful

and ardent leader, Don Pedro Gallo, belonged to one of the wealthiest and

most influential families in Chile. He had already assumed a threatening

attitude in the northern provinces, where his family was held in high

consideration, and had cut off all communication with the mining city of

Copiapo. His mother, a lady some sixty years of age, harangued her son's

troops from the balcony of her house, and repeatedly excited her auditory

by shrieking out the thrilling assurance, that "she would sacrifice her

last farthing would it but ensure the downfall of the existing Government,

and the return to power of the party of the _Peluqueros_" (literally

wig-makers, or Whigs, who in Chile are regarded as adherents of the

Conservative, or rather reactionary party).

Of the immense sums which ambition and party rancour are willing to

sacrifice in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the Gallo

family, at the commencement of the insurrection, engaged to devote their

whole fortune, estimated at more than L600,000, in promoting the aims of

the revolutionists. Fortunately for the pecuniary interests both of the

family and the State, it was nipped in the bud, before any enormous

expenses had been incurred, although it must be confessed that also in

Chile making war is a most costly pastime. The Intendant of Valparaiso,

Don Joaquim Novoa, informed us that the cost of maintaining the

highly-paid Chilean army, which does not number above 8000 men, amounts to

500,000 dollars (L100,000) A WEEK!!! considerably more, proportionally,

than four times the estimated cost of the highly-trained British army.

Our evenings in Santiago were usually spent in private circles, and we

found ourselves in no small degree astonished at the elegance and luxury

which were visible, both in the fitting up of the reception-rooms and the

toilettes of the guests. It is true, we associated with the wealthiest

and most distinguished families in the country, but we had not expected to

find the subdued but exquisite French taste so universally prevalent. The

external aspect of the houses of the Chilean patricians is rather massive

than elegant. The heavy iron grating which surrounds the wide lofty

windows leave a disagreeable gloomy impression. The large quadrangular

court, or Patio, enclosed by the bed-chambers, and which is common to

every Spanish American house from Chile to Mexico, is intended less for

the passage of air and light to the various apartments than as a place to

fly to in case of an earthquake (which, however, within the last 20 years

were of rare occurrence in Chile and of no great importance), whence it

would be easy to escape. Usually the reception-room has no cost or pains

spared to embellish it; every object or article of furniture in it being

designed to produce a certain effect. The expense and risk attending the

transport of a large mirror or pianoforte, or other article of similar

value, from the factory at Paris to its destination in Chile, is enough to

make the visitor open his eyes with amazement at beholding them there!

Conversation, which, owing to the limited information of the ladies,

usually turns in South American drawing-rooms upon the most common-place

subjects, is marked in Chile by all the interest and vivacity consequent

on the important influence exercised by the fair sex over the politics of

the country, which prefers debating important political events to idle

chatter and ordinary talk.

Even more agreeable than the evenings we spent among the patrician circles

of Santiago, were those which we passed with an Austrian gentleman, Dr.

Herzl, settled here some ten years, and with some German-Spanish families.

Here everlasting politics, or rather party squabbles, had not, as in the

native _salons_, banished music and song, the latter being cherished as a

means of rising out of the hurly-burly, and keeping the annoyances of

public life, for the moment at least, at arm's length.

In Chilean salons nothing was talked but politics; here the bent of

conversation was towards literature and art, and, climax of the evening,

the beloved melodies of our native land. Madame Z----, a native of Madrid,

a second time married to a German, is a downright musical prodigy. In her

youth she had studied at the _Conservatoire_ in Paris in company with

Madame Malibran, and although now 54, and the mother of 16 children, she

still entrances by her clear ringing voice, and the charm of her

exquisitely appreciative intonation.

The chief engineer and director of the southern railway (Ferro Carril del

Sur), a North American gentleman named Evans, a graduate of West Point,

had the kindness to invite some members of the Expedition to visit the

Maipu Bridge, distant some 17 miles from Santiago, and accompanied them in

person on their excursion to this the most interesting engineering work of

the line. We set off at 1 P.M. by one of the ordinary trains. The road is

intended to unite Santiago with the very productive district of Talca, a

distance of 180 miles, and is destined to exercise a most beneficial

influence in improving the position of the peasantry.

The drive through the valley of Santiago is exceedingly interesting, as

the line keeps close beneath the Cordillera through nearly its entire

length, thus revealing to the gaze of the astonished traveller a

succession of Alpine landscapes, such as one might behold in crossing the

Semmering Alp. The ordinary rate of travelling in Chile is 25 miles an

hour, but the expresses occasionally run at the rate of 60 miles per hour.

As the splendid pastures on either side are grazed by innumerable herds,

some of which were constantly straying upon the line, the item for injury

done to cattle used to assume serious proportions, owing to the negligence

of the drivers, till the directors, under the advice of Mr. Evans, offered

a premium of 30 dollars a quarter to any engine driver who should during

that space avoid killing any of the cattle: a singular regulation, but

which put a stop to the evil. The line is solidly constructed, but very

simply equipped, the waiting-rooms at the different stations being

entirely deficient in that luxury which the traveller is accustomed to on

first-rate European lines. But it tells in favour of the dividend.[113]

The splendid and substantially-built iron bridge thrown over the Maipu

here, 1500 feet wide, at an elevation of 1822 feet above the level of the

sea, was like everything used on the line, with the exception of the wood,

imported from North America. Of the difficulty and expense attending

land-transport in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the

freightage of one ton of goods from New York to Valparaiso, 10,000 miles

by sea, is but L1 1_s._, whereas the conveyance of the same quantity from

Santiago to Valparaiso, only 100 miles, costs L7 7_s._!!

Although evening surprised us ere we returned to Santiago from Maipu, and

a dense mist hung over the landscape quite precluding all views for the

greatest part of the road, we were so fortunate, shortly before our

arrival at the city, as to be favoured with a glimpse of the majestic

range of the Cordillera, lit up by the declining rays of the sun, a

spectacle resembling the sunset splendours of the Alps in Switzerland; but

the novelty of the details of which, coupled with its suddenness and

brevity of duration, greatly deepened the impression of awe and admiration

with which we regarded it.

At noon of the 30th of April we set out on our return to Valparaiso. On

this occasion we availed ourselves of a different kind of vehicle, an

American mail-coach as it is termed, from its having been first organized

by a North American, which admitted of our seeing a different range of

country. In this journey we were fortunate enough to be accompanied by Mr.

James Volckmann, a young German gentleman, who is an active colleague of

the renowned geologist, Mr. Pissis, and has already himself contributed

many valuable additions to our acquaintance with the geology of Chile. The

coach stopping at Melepilla, the next station, a neat little town nestling

on a level surface at the foot of a lovely valley, whence it was to

proceed the following morning to the port, we took advantage of the

opportunity to pay an _impromptu_ visit to a Chilean family in the

neighbourhood, to which we had introduction. We rode out accordingly to

the _hacienda_ of Las Esmeraldas, about two miles distant from Melepilla,

where we were received like old friends of the hospitable family Lecaros.

Most of the wealthy landowners of the country pass only a few months of

each year in their splendid houses at Valparaiso or Santiago, and spend

the rest of their time in affluent retirement upon their properties. The

small, externally unsightly, mansion was furnished within with all that

could minister to that genuine English notion of COMFORT; and the ladies,

though the hour was so late that they could scarcely have expected any

further visitors, received us in full Parisian toilette. This surprised us

the more, inasmuch as the national costume is very much more graceful than

that of Europe,--even an elderly female, dressed in sombre-hued silk, and

with a long black coif around the head, the left ribbon of which is turned

over the right shoulder, having quite a unique, piquant, and attractive

appearance.

Even here the conversation took a political tone, and it speedily came to

light that the stay of the ladies at Las Esmeraldas at the present

inclement season was attributable less to any admiration of the beauties

of nature than to some political disagreement; for the Chilean ladies,

like all their sex of the Latin stock, delight in political

demonstrations. However, they are mainly taken up with keeping the

Ultramontane element, the influence of which is everywhere apparent,

within the limits assigned it by the Constitution itself. The head of the

family, Don Jose Antonio Lecaro, an excellent energetic old gentleman,

told us a great deal about his property, of the improvements he had made

and was still projecting, and we regretted that the advanced hour

prevented our examining this well-managed _hacienda_, which is so large

that the pasturage can maintain several thousand horned cattle and horses.

Nevertheless, so far as regards numbers of farm-animals, it is probable

that the proprietor of Las Esmeraldas is very far from being among the

most extensive land-holders of Chile.

In the evening we adjourned to the elegant drawing-room, where time flew

away in the most delightful manner with music and singing; the music,

chiefly German, being selected, if we were not mistaken, quite as much

through genuine appreciation of the great _maestros_ whose works were

chosen, as to do honour to the nationality of the guests.

During the night we returned on horseback to Melepilla, and the following

morning, 1st May, 1859, continued our journey to Valparaiso, where we

arrived about four P.M., full of the most delightful and varied memories

of our trip.

When we reached Valparaiso the frigate was ready to sail, but her

departure was delayed, as our Commodore resolved to await the arrival of

the next European mail, in case he should receive further instructions as

to his route. In every social circle at this place, men hoped against hope

that a European Congress would be convoked, which should devise a peaceful

solution of existing differences. If, however, there was to be war, then

amongst all, especially the Germans resident here, it was a foregone

conclusion that Germany ought to make common cause with Austria. The

disappointment was not long waited for--* * * *!

The uncertainty of our stay did not admit of any more excursions being

made to a distance, and the naturalists accordingly redoubled their

activity in searching for subjects in the environs of the town. The

Directors of the railroad from Valparaiso to Santiago, which, however, is

as yet only completed as far as the little village of Guillota, were so

kind as to invite the members of the Expedition to make free use of their

line, and the chief engineer, Mr. Lloyd, had also issued instructions to

the various station-masters to give all manner of facilities to the

foreign guests, and assist them in their collections to the utmost of

their power. Unfortunately we found no time to avail ourselves of this

very friendly invitation, and thus had to forego an excellent opportunity

for examining the line itself, and studying its interesting geological

features.

We succeeded once in getting as far as Guillota, the Spa of Chile. This

portion of the road, 30 miles in length, is much travelled over, the fares

being 1, 2, and 3 dollars according to class, and the monthly receipts

amount to from 20,000 to 25,000 dollars (L4200 to L5250).

The little village of Guillota, lying in a valley laid out in orchards and

vineyards, is of enormous extent; the _Calle larga_, or Long Street, being

six English miles in length. The houses are usually one storey, very plain

and unpretending but scrupulously clean. The stranger who wanders though

Guillota, and becomes sensible of the filth and dust in the streets, and

the entire absence of comfort within-doors, is apt to puzzle himself how

the place came to be selected for a summer resort of the fashionable

world, as indeed he may marvel how the Spanish navigators, to whom

Valparaiso is indebted for its name, contrived to associate the idea of

the Vale of Paradise with its sandy hills and glades bare of vegetation.

Possibly the summer guests, who flock hither from October to March, may be

sufficiently enthusiastic in their admiration of natural scenery, to feel

themselves indemnified for discomfort within-doors by the charm of the

surrounding landscape. The environs are exceedingly beautiful, the valley

abounds in luxuriant vegetation and beautiful distant prospects, and from

the little hill of Manaca, 150 to 200 feet in height, on the summit of

which a large wooden cross was set up by missionary preachers in 1849,

there is stretched at the feet of the beholder a magnificent picture of

unrivalled interest and beauty, especially when the sun is near his

setting, and lights up the magnificent peaks, from 3000 to 4000 feet in

height, called, from their form resembling that of a bell, Campana and

Campanita. More probably, however, the visitors from the port are at that

hour busily employed at the "green tables," where, at faro and roulette,

enormous sums are frequently lost and won.

One marked peculiarity, which it is impossible to avoid noticing, is the

vast disproportion here between the sexes. One hardly ever sees any but

ladies in the streets, or sitting elegantly attired on low stools in front

of the open door, their hands busy with their work, their eyes watching

the passers-by. The numerous hard-working male population is much more

profitably employed in working at the city, rather than staying at home

engaged in agriculture; whence it results that at Guillota, just as in

some European fishing villages along our sea-coasts, the male portion of

the household are often absent for weeks together, and the little hamlet

has the appearance of being the head-quarters of a tribe of Amazons.

From Guillota we went on to a large hacienda, about nine miles further,

called La Calera, the property of a native of Bolivia. Part of this is

planted with almond trees, but by far the larger portion is devoted to

wine-growing. One of the _Mandadores_, or overseers; begged us to enter a

large, handsome building where the process of wine-preparing was being

carried on, and gave us some new wine, here called _Chicha_(pronounced

Tchitcha), which tasted very sweet and palatable. The Chicha is used in

enormous quantities in Chile, and is even sent abroad in large

bottle-shaped skins, but, owing to this mode of keeping it, the wine,

which is set down much as cider is in Normandy, acquires a villanous twang

that is anything but agreeable.

In Valparaiso we were so fortunate as to fall in with Mr. Kindermann, one

of the founders of the German settlement of Valdivia, who has been long

resident there, and has large landed property in that direction. We also

made the acquaintance of Dr. Philippi, who, although attending to his

duties as Professor of Natural History in the University of Santiago,

finds time to take an active part in the colony of Valdivia. It would

appear from the inquiries instituted by competent persons, that the main

obstacle to the permanent success and extension of the German colony

consists in the want of roads, and that the fertility of the soil

justifies the most sanguine hopes, so soon as more ready means of

communication are provided, that the numerous products raised by this

industrious community will no longer want either a steady market or

extensive buyers.

Another German colony, which was organized with extensive privileges

established at Punta Arenas in Magelhaen's Straits, and now numbers some

150 colonists, not only displays the most cheering signs of vitality, and

that in a climate which has acquired, most unjustly however, an unenviable

reputation, but promises to be of great importance both to Chile itself

and to the vessels of all nations navigating the Straits of

Magelhaen[114]. This will be more particularly the case, so soon as the

scheme projected by certain Chilean patriots is realized, of which there

is an early prospect, of placing a number of steamers upon the

Magelhaen-Straits' line, for the purpose of towing vessels through.

In order to form an adequate conception of the importance of this

undertaking, both for Chile and all seafaring nations, it must be borne in

mind, that by thus making the Straits available, vessels will not alone

escape the storms of Cape Horn, but will effect a great saving in time.

Maury estimates the time required by a vessel to pass from the eastern

entrance of the Straits around Cape Horn to the western entrance at 25

days. They could be towed through in from four to five days, thus saving

some 20 days. The tonnage passing round Cape Horn to Valparaiso alone

cannot be much short of 120,000 tons of merchandise, valued at about

16,000,000 dollars (L3,200,000), so that the pecuniary returns realized by

the saving of time in the voyages of these vessels promises to realize to

the company a net profit of 257,776 dollars (L53,600)[115].

Of course the estimate will become very much larger, if all the sailing

vessels be included which pass annually round the Horn from E. to W.,

amounting to some 500 in number, with a tonnage of 400,000, and cargoes

valued at 53,000,000 dollars (L11,000,000). The projectors also propose to

erect a lighthouse and telegraph station, both at Cape Virgin on the East,

and Cape Pilar at the Western entrance, as also in Possession Bay, 40

miles W. of Virgin's Cape, at the Eastern entrance, and to have the depot

buildings for the requisite materials at the entrance of Smythe Channel,

35 miles east of Cape Pilar. Four or five steamers of at least 500 tons

are to perform the towing service, for which they propose to charge

sailing vessels 1.50 dollars (6s. 3_d._) per ton, less, in fact, than the

charge for towing in China, Australia, &c.

Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859, Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the Austrian Navy. · 第 9 / 13 章

III. The uru (also called _Maiore_), or bread-fruit tree (_Artocarpus