250. _The COMMON STURGEON_ (Acipenser sturio, Fig. 71), _is a large kind
of sea-fish with five rows of bony tubercles along the body; the mouth
beneath the head, and four fleshy beards betwixt the mouth and the
extremity of the muzzle._
_This fish sometimes growes to the length of sixteen feet and upwards._
_It inhabits the European and American seas, and annually ascends the
rivers in the early part of the year._
It is to this and to a still larger species of sturgeon called the BELUGA
(_Acipenser huso_), which is found in the river Wolga, that we are indebted
for much of the well-known substance called _isinglass_. The mode of making
isinglass was long kept a secret by the Russians, and has only of late
years been made public. This article consists of certain membranous parts
of fishes deprived of their viscous quality and properly dried. The sounds,
or air bladders, are those of which it is chiefly made. They are taken out,
while sweet and fresh, slit open, washed from their slime, divested of a
very thin membrane which envelopes them, and then left to stiffen in the
air. After this they are formed into rolls, each about the thickness of the
finger, and put into the shape in which we see them, by small wooden pegs,
and left to dry. The kind called _cake isinglass_ is formed of bits and
fragments put into a flat metal pan with very little water, heated just
enough to make the parts adhere, and subsequently dried in the air.
Although by far the greatest quantity of isinglass is obtained from the
beluga, as being the largest and most abundant fish in the rivers of
Muscovy, yet it has been ascertained that this substance may be made from
the air-bladders of every species of fresh water fish. The principal
consumption of isinglass is by brewers and others, for the fining of
fermented liquors: this it appears to do merely by the mechanical effect of
its organization, which forms a kind of strainer, or fine net-work, and
carries the gross impurities before it, as it subsides. It is sometimes
employed in medicine; and also in cookery, for making jellies, and other
purposes.
_Caviar_ is a kind of food made generally from the roes of the sturgeon.
For this purpose they are washed, when fresh, by rubbing them, with the
hands, in a sieve, to free them from the fibres by which the several eggs
are connected together. They are then washed in white wine or vinegar, and
spread out to dry. After some further processes, they are either formed
into cakes, each about an inch in thickness and three or four inches in
diameter, or they are packed in small kegs for use.
The _flesh_ of the sturgeon is firm, white, and of excellent flavour; and,
by some persons, has been compared to veal. It is considered best when
roasted; though it is commonly sold in a pickled state, and, in this state,
is chiefly imported from the rivers of the Baltic and North America. All
sturgeons that are caught near London are taken to the Lord Mayor, and are
by him presented to the King. In Italy the _back bones_ of these fish are
cut into pieces, salted and smoked for food. The Russians frequently
convert the _skins_ of sturgeons into a kind of leather, which they use for
the covering of carriages.
251. _The SHARKS and DOG-FISH_ (Squalus, Fig. 64) _constitute a tribe of
sea-fish noted for their voracity, and peculiarly characterized by
having, instead of gills, from four to seven breathing apertures, of
curved form, on each side of the neck._
_They are found in all seas, and some of them are of enormous magnitude,
measuring from twenty to thirty feet and upwards in length._
The _skins_ of nearly all these animals, which are rough, with hard and
minute prickles, are in frequent use for polishing wood, ivory, and even
iron. Those of the larger species are cut into thongs and traces for
carriages; and, in Norway, a sort of leather is prepared from them, which
is employed for shoes and many other purposes. The skin of the SPOTTED
DOG-FISH (_Squalus canicula_) is converted into the well-known substance
called _shagreen_, or _chagreen_. For this purpose it is extended on a
board and covered with mustard seed; and, after having been exposed for
several days to the effects of the weather, it is tanned. The best shagreen
is imported from Constantinople. This is of brownish colour, and very hard;
but when immersed in water, it becomes soft and pliable, and may be dyed of
any colour. Shagreen is often counterfeited by preparing morocco leather in
the same manner as the skins of the dog-fish. Such fraud may, however,
easily be detected by the surface of the spurious manufacture peeling or
scaling off, whilst that of the genuine article remains perfectly sound.
Shagreen is employed principally to cover cases for mathematical
instruments, and was formerly used for watch-cases and the covers of books.
_Sharks' fins_ are an article of trade from the Arabian and Persian gulfs
to India, and thence to China: they are generally packed in bales weighing
each about 700 pounds.
The _flesh_ of all the species of sharks is hard, and in general unpleasant
both to the smell and the taste; yet it is sometimes eaten by seamen, after
having been macerated for a while in water to soften it. The _eggs_ of
sharks are also eaten. The _livers_ of all the species yield a considerable
quantity of oil, which is useful for burning and for other purposes. From
the livers of some of the larger kinds as much as seven or eight butts of
oil have been obtained, worth twenty or thirty pounds and upwards.
252. _The SKATE_ (Raia batis, Fig. 72) _is a species of ray of large
size, with flat and somewhat diamond-shaped body, and the mouth on the
under side: the teeth sharp, and a single row of spines in the tail._
_It is found in almost every part of the European ocean._
No fish of its tribe is so excellent for the table as the skate,
particularly when it is young and has not fed in a muddy part of the sea.
The flesh is white and of good flavour, but is usually crimped before it is
cooked. The best season for skate is from January to March; and from July
to September. So great is the size which these fish sometimes attain, that
Willoughby mentions one that would have served 120 men for dinner. In
several parts of the Continent skate are salted and dried for sale. The
fishermen also sometimes dry the _stomach_ as an article of food; and
extract from the _liver_ a white and valuable kind of oil.
253. _The THORNBACK_ (Raia clavata) _is a species of ray, which differs
from the skate chiefly in having blunt teeth, and a row of curved spines
along the middle of the body and on the tail._
_This is a very common fish near all the coasts of Britain._
The flesh of thornback is much inferior to that of the skate, yet it is
sometimes eaten. That of the young ones, which have the denomination of
_maids_, is however peculiarly excellent. The Norwegian fishermen catch
thornbacks chiefly on account of their _livers_; from these they extract a
considerable quantity of oil, which they sell with great advantage to
strangers who frequent their harbours.
254. _The TRUE LAMPREY_ (Petromyzon marinus, Fig. 73) _is an eel-shaped
fish having seven breathing-holes on each side of the neck, and somewhat
oblong mouth with many rows of yellowish pointed teeth disposed in a
circular form._
_These fish are of dusky colour, irregularly marked with dirty yellow;
and they sometimes weigh four or five pounds each._
_They are sea-fish, but, at certain seasons, they ascend the rivers to
deposit their eggs._
Lampreys are celebrated as forming an excellent dish for the table; and
they have, at all times, been held in great esteem by epicures,
particularly when potted or stewed. The death of one of our monarchs, Henry
the First, has been attributed to a too plentiful repast which he made of
these fish. Lampreys are in best season during the month of March, April,
and May; at which time they are caught in the rivers. The Severn is
peculiarly celebrated for them; and the city of Gloucester, which is
situated on that river, is required, by ancient custom, to present annually
to the King, at Christmas, a lamprey pie with raised crust. And as, at that
early season, lampreys are very scarce, it is not without difficulty that
the corporation is able to supply the proper quantity.
These fish are caught in various ways, but particularly in osier pots or
baskets formed to entrap them, and also in nets. In some parts of the
country they are boiled, and afterwards packed into barrels with vinegar
and spices.
255. _The LESSER LAMPREY_ (Petromyzon fluviatilis) _is a fresh-water
fish, distinguishable from the true lamprey by its much smaller size, the
second dorsal fin being angular and connected with the caudal fin, and
having a single row of teeth placed circularly in the mouth._
_This fish seldom exceeds the length of eight or ten inches._
_It is found in the rivers of most parts of Europe, America, and Asia;
and particularly in those of Brandenburgh, Pomerania, Silesia, and
Prussia._
In the spring of the year these fish are frequently seen sticking, by their
mouth, to stones in shallow water, from which they may easily be taken with
the hand. They are considered a very delicious fish for the table, in
whatever way they are cooked. The best season for them is betwixt the
months of December and April.
Great numbers of Lesser Lampreys are caught in the Severn, the Dee, and the
Thames; but particularly in the latter, near Mortlake in Surrey. Anterior
to the late war more than 400,000 of them were annually sold to the Dutch
as bait for cod, turbot, and other large fish.
----