215. _The JOHN DOREE_ (Zeus faber, Fig. 65) _is a fish very much
compressed at the sides, with large head, wide mouth, long filaments to
the rays of the first dorsal fin, the tail rounded, and a roundish black
spot on each side of the body._
_This fish is an inhabitant of most seas, and is usually about a foot and
a half in length; but it is sometimes known to weigh so much as ten or
twelve pounds._
It has only been within about the last half century that this delicious,
though hideous-looking, fish, has had a place at our tables; and the first
person who brought it into notice was the well-known actor and bon-vivant,
the late Mr. Quin.
Near the coasts of Devonshire and Cornwall, dorées are caught in great
number both in nets and with lines; and they are principally in season
during the months of October, November, and December. Their name is a
corruption from the French _jaune dorée_, and signifies golden yellow fish,
this being their colour when first taken out of the water.
216. _The HOLIBUT_ (Pleuronectes hippoglossus) _is a flat fish of
considerably lengthened shape, of olive or blackish colour above, with
smooth body, and the tail hollowed at the extremity. The eyes (as viewed
from the head toward the tail) are on the right side._
_These, the largest of all the European species of flat fish, inhabit
both the European and American seas, and frequently weigh from 100 to 300
or 400 pounds each._
As the holibut is found only at the bottom of the water, the usual mode of
catching it is with hooks and lines; and its size is so great that, for
sale in the markets, it is customary to cut it into pieces. The season in
which it is most esteemed is during the months of October, November, and
December.
Though, in general, a coarse food, the parts which are near the side fins
are fat and delicious, but too rich for any one to eat much of them. The
inhabitants of Greenland eat of these fish both fresh and dried. They also
eat the _skin_ and the _liver_; and the _membrane of the stomach_ serves
instead of glass for windows. The Swedes and Icelanders make of holibut a
food called _raff_ and _roechel_; the former consisting of the fins with
the fat skin to which they are attached; and the latter of pieces of the
flesh cut into stripes, salted, and dried on sticks in the air. Holibuts
are also salted in the same manner as herrings, which is said to be the
best mode of curing them; but, in this state, they are coarse and bad
eating.
217. _The PLAISE_ (Pleuronectes platessa) _is a kind of flat fish easily
known by a row of six bony protuberances behind the left eye, and its
upper side being marbled with olive and brown, and marked with orange
spots_.
_Though usually of small size, this fish sometimes grows to the weight of
twelve or fourteen pounds, and is found on the shores of almost all the
countries of Europe._
The best and largest plaise are said to be caught on some parts of the
coast of Sussex. They are in greatest perfection from December to March,
and in July, August and September. Those that are of tolerably large size
are firm and well-flavoured, but the small and thin fish become gluey by
boiling. The flesh of the former is bluish, and of the latter reddish
white. Plaise are generally caught with nets called seine nets, which are
hauled upon the shores.
In some countries these fish are salted and dried as articles of commerce;
and in others the best of them are skinned, dried, and pressed into
particular forms, and, when eaten, are cut like cheese.
218. _The DAB_ (Pleuronectes limanda) _is a species of flat fish, of
yellowish brown colour, with the eyes on the right side of the body, the
scales hard and toothed, and the lateral line, at its commencement,
curved round the pectoral fin._
_It is in general much smaller than the plaise._
Although very common on the shores of the Baltic and Mediterranean seas,
the dab is much more scarce on the British shores than the plaise. When in
best season, during the months of February, March, and April, it is
considered preferable to that fish. In the summer-time its flesh is soft
and of bad flavour. The Dutch and Scots fishermen sometimes salt and dry
these fish.
219. _The BRILL is a flat fish somewhat like the turbot (222), but with
its eyes on the right side of the body, the whole surface of the body
smooth, and a laceration at the beginning of the dorsal fin._
These fish are not uncommon, in somewhat deeper water than the plaise, and
the flounder, along the coasts of Dorsetshire, Hampshire, and some of the
eastern parts ot England. They are very common at Billingsgate, and in
other markets; are considered an excellent fish for the table, being white,
firm, and well-flavoured; and are chiefly in season in the months of
October and November.
220. _The FLOUNDER_ (Pleuronectes flesus) _is a flat fish which differs
from the plaise (217) principally in wanting the six protuberances behind
the left eye, in having the lateral line rough, short spines at the base
of the upper side of the fins, and a great number of rough points on
almost the whole upper surface of the body._
_Its weight seldom exceeds two or three pounds._
There are few species of fish so common on the flat and somewhat muddy
shores of this country as the flounder. It enters the harbours, and ascends
the rivers to a considerable distance from their mouth. It is even caught
in places where the water is perfectly fresh, and it is said to be much
sweeter and better for the table when taken at a distance from the sea than
in salt-water. On this account chiefly it is that the flounders caught in
the river Thames have obtained great celebrity. They are in best season
from January to March, and from July to September.
Flounders are generally caught with nets in the same way as other flat
fish. But sometimes the fishermen catch them by walking gently in the
shallow waters, where they abound, and stabbing an iron prong or fork
through their bodies, as they lie in the mud. The places where they lie are
known by the exposure only of their eyes and mouth, all the other parts of
their body being concealed. Small flounders are frequently used by
fishermen as bait for crabs and lobsters.
221. _The SOLE_ (Pleuronectes solea) _is a flat fish, the body of which
is oblong and rough, and the upper jaw longer than the lower._
_It is found off the sandy shores of nearly all parts of the world; and,
though in England, it does not often exceed the might of three or four
pounds, in hot climates it frequently weighs as much as seven or eight
pounds._
The sole is a fish in great request for the table, and, except the turbot,
is usually considered the most firm and delicate fish of its tribe. Though
exposed for sale during nearly the whole year, it is in highest perfection
about Midsummer. By the ancient laws of the Cinque Ports no person was
allowed to catch soles from the first of November to the fifteenth of
March; nor was any one permitted to use nets betwixt sun-setting and
sun-rising, that the fish might not be disturbed in their feeding. Soles
when good are of thick form, and their under parts are cream-coloured; if
the latter are bluish, the fish are flabby and bad. These, unlike most
other fish, may be kept several days, even in hot weather, without becoming
putrid; and they are always skinned before they are eaten. The _skins_ are
sometimes dried, and used for the clarifying of coffee.
222. _The TURBOT_ (Pleuronectes maximus, Fig. 66) _is a species of flat
fish, distinguished by its eyes being on the left side, the body being
broad, marbled with brown and yellow above, and rough with bony
protuberances._
_The weight of these fish is from four or five to betwixt twenty and
thirty pounds._
_They are chiefly caught in the European and Mediterranean seas._
It has been calculated that more than 10,000 pounds' weight of turbots are
annually consumed in London. These are chiefly caught off the northern
coasts of England, and off the coast of Holland. Notwithstanding the high
repute of turbot for the tables of the most wealthy and luxurious
inhabitants of this country, it has only of late been relished in Scotland,
and many persons there still prefer the holibut (216) to it. There are now,
or were very lately, living in one of the coast-towns of Scotland several
poor people who were accustomed to derive a great part of their subsistence
from the turbots which the fishermen threw away upon the beach as of no
value. A general officer in the English army first taught the inhabitants
of Fifeshire that these fish were eatable; and astonished the fishermen of
that country by offering so great a sum as a shilling a piece for the
largest of them.
Many of the vessels, which carry fish to the Thames, are employed in
fishing for turbot even so far north as the Frith of Forth, and, in the
wells of these vessels, they are brought alive to the London markets.
Turbot are caught off the Yorkshire coast with hooks and lines. At
Scarborough each fisherman takes, in his boat, three lines coiled upon flat
oblong pieces of wicker-work, the hooks being baited and placed in the
centre of the coils. The lines are usually furnished with 280 hooks, placed
at the distance of six feet two inches from each other. In this fishing
there are always three men in each boat, and nine of these lines are
fastened together, extending in length nearly three miles, and furnished
with 2520 hooks. They are placed in the sea, across the current, and
secured by anchors or large stones at the end of every three lines. Their
situation is marked by floats or buoys made of leather or cork. The lines
are always placed at the turn of the tide; and they are suffered to
continue until the next tide, and consequently remain upon the ground about
six hours. The best bait for turbot is a fresh herring, though the Dutch
fishermen prefer the lesser lampreys (255) to them, and have been known to
purchase of the English fishermen, for this purpose, more than 700l. worth
of these lampreys per annum. Small pieces of haddocks, sand-worms, and some
kinds of shell-fish, are also occasionally used; and, when none of these
are to be had, bullock's liver is adopted.
Turbots are in season during nearly the whole summer. When in perfection,
they are thick, and the under part of the body is of yellowish white
colour. If they are thin, or this part has a bluish tinge, they are bad.
These fish are generally considered better if kept in a cool place for a
few days before they are eaten.
223. _The COMMON PERCH_ (Perca fluviatilis) _is a fresh-water fish,
distinguished by having sixteen soft rays to the second dorsal fin,
fourteen spiny ones to the first dorsal fin, the upper gill-covers
serrated at the edges, and the sides marked by five broad and upright
bars of black._
_This fish seldom exceeds the weight of four or five pounds._
_It is found in rivers and lakes both in Europe and Siberia._
With the ancient Romans the perch was a very favourite fish. Though
somewhat bony, it is white, firm, and well flavoured, and is considered an
excellent food for persons in a weak state of health. Perch are generally
found in rapid streams where the water is somewhat deep. They are caught
both with nets and with hooks and lines, and are in greatest perfection,
from January to March, and again in October and November. In Lapland and
Siberia they are sometimes found of enormous size. The Laplanders, in one
of their churches, have the dried head of a perch which is nearly a foot in
length. The Dutch are particularly fond of perch when made into a dish
called _water souchy_.
From the _skins_ of perch a kind of isinglass is made which surpasses that
made from any other fish. The Laplanders use it to stiffen their bows and
make them durable. As this substance might be rendered of use for various
purposes of domestic economy, it may not be altogether unimportant to
detail the mode of its preparation. The skins are first dried, and
afterwards softened in cold water to rid them of the scales. The Laplanders
generally take four or five of the skins at a time, put them into a
rein-deer's bladder, or wrap them in pieces of the bark of the birch-tree,
so that they may not come in contact with the water. They place these in a
pot of boiling water, putting on them a stone to keep them at the bottom of
the pot; and in this situation they are boiled for an hour. When they have
become soft and glutinous, they are taken out, and are then in a state fit
for use.
Perch may be bred and fattened in ponds; but care should be taken not to
put them with other fish, as their voracity renders them extremely
destructive to any that are weaker than themselves; or they should be
accompanied by such only as are intended to furnish them with food. A pond
may be stocked with perch by putting only the eggs or spawn into it; and if
the situation and circumstances be favourable, the increase in a few years
will be extremely great.
These fish are so tenacious of life that instances have occurred of their
being packed in wet straw and carried alive to a distance of fifty miles
and upwards.
224. _The BASSE is a sea-fish somewhat resembling a perch, with a short
and sharp spine on the posterior plate of the gill-cover, fourteen rays
to the second dorsal fin, the back dusky tinged with blue, and the belly
white._
_This fish sometimes attains the weight of twenty and even thirty
pounds._
_It is found in the Mediterranean, the British Channel, the Northern
Ocean, and the Baltic._
These voracious fish are caught during nearly all the year; but the months
of August, September, and October, are considered most favourable for
taking them. They not only approach the shores, but even ascend the rivers
to great distances. Though their flesh is in general woolly and insipid,
the Romans preferred them to many other kinds of fish, and sometimes paid
high prices for them. Those which they chiefly esteemed were caught in the
Tiber, betwixt the bridges of Rome.
The eggs or _roes_ of the basse have sometimes been used in France and
Italy to make what is called _Boutargue_ or _Botargo_.
225. _The COMMON MACKREL_ (Scomber scomber) _is known from other fish by
having five small and distinct fins betwixt the dorsal fin and the tail._
_Its usual length is from a foot to eighteen inches, and its weight
seldom exceeds two or three pounds._
The mackrel fishery is an object of great commercial importance to the
inhabitants of most of the countries on the shores of which these fish
abound. During the summer season they approach our coasts in immense
shoals, and are generally caught in what are called seine nets. From June
to August many of our markets are supplied with them; but as mackrel become
putrid sooner than most other fish, they cannot be carried to any great
distance, nor be kept for any great length of time. On this account it is
that they are allowed to be sold in the streets of London on Sundays, and
in catholic countries on Sundays and festivals.
When quite fresh mackrel are an excellent fish for the table, and are in
best season from May to July. Both in Italy and England they are often
pickled with vinegar and spices, and sometimes with bay leaves intermixed.
By the inhabitants of many parts of the north of Europe they are salted;
and, in this state, they constitute a cheap and very important article of
subsistence. In Scotland they are frequently cured in the same manner as
herrings. It was with these fish chiefly that the ancient Romans formed
their celebrated pickle called _garum_. This in the ancient world
constituted a very considerable branch of commerce, not only from its being
used as an highly esteemed sauce, but also as it was considered a remedy
for various diseases. In the Mediterranean the _roes_ of mackrel are
salted, and used for _caviar_.
226. _The THUNNY, or ALBICORE_ (Scomber thynnus, Fig. 61), _is a large
fish of the mackrel tribe, of steel-blue colour above, and silvery white
beneath; and is particularly known by having from eight to eleven
distinct fins betwixt the dorsal fin and the tail._
_These fish measure from six to ten feet in length, and frequently weigh
from 400 to 1200 pounds._
_They are chiefly caught in the Mediterranean._
We are acquainted with no species of fish, of size equal to the thunny,
which supply mankind with so palatable a food. The thunny fishery is
pursued with great ardour, by the inhabitants of nearly all the shores of
the Mediterranean; but, particularly, by those of Spain and Sardinia. It
constitutes one of the principal objects of diversion to the inhabitants of
Sardinia; and, for the purpose of attending it, many persons of distinction
come even from distant countries. The nets, which are of great size and
value, are prepared in April, and are consecrated by the priests previously
to being thrown into the sea. On the preceding evening the persons employed
draw lots for the name of the Saint who is to be considered the patron of
the fishing for the ensuing day; and this Saint, whoever he maybe, is alone
invoked to promote the success of the undertaking.
Notwithstanding their great size, these fish swim in shoals of sometimes
more than 1000 together. Pliny, the Roman naturalist, asserts that the
fleet of Alexander the Great attempted, in vain, to pass through a shoal of
them, in any other manner than closely arranged in order of battle. Of the
immense numbers of thunnies some idea may be formed when it is stated that
300,000 or 400,000 of them are supposed every year to pass through the
straits of Gibraltar. These fish are not uncommon on the western shores of
Scotland, but not in shoals as in the Mediterranean.
The flesh of the thunny differs much, according to the season, and the
place where it is taken; hence in Sardinia it is called by different names
according with this difference. When raw it is in general red like beef,
but, on being boiled, it assumes a pale colour; and when in perfection, its
taste somewhat resembles that of salmon. These fish are salted, and sent,
in great quantity, to Constantinople and the Greek islands. The thunny was
so much esteemed by the ancient Greeks that they consecrated it to Diana.
227. _The BONITO_ (Scomber pelamis) _is a large species of mackrel, of
thick form, with seven small distinct fins betwixt the dorsal fin and the
tail, and several large scales below the pectoral fin._
_This fish measures eighteen inches or two feet in length, and is ten
pounds and upwards in weight._
_It is principally found in the seas of tropical climates._
Sometimes these fish approach the European shores; and one of them was
caught a few years ago at Christchurch, in Hampshire. To mariners in hot
climates they often afford an important supply of food. Their flesh is fat
and white, but inferior in excellence to that of the thunny, except when
salted. A very lucrative fishery of bonitos is carried on at Cadiz. The
fishing commences about the end of April, and continues until the beginning
of July; and, in general, affords occupation for about a hundred persons.
228. _The RED SURMULLET_ (Mullus barbatus) _is a fish known by its large
and loose scales, the general red colour of its body, and its having two
fleshy beards on the under jaw._
_It frequents the European seas, and seldom exceeds the length of eight
or ten inches._
229. _The STRIPED SURMULLET_ (Mullus surmuletus, Fig. 67.) _has large and
long scales, is of red colour, with four yellowish stripes along its
sides, and two beards on the under jaw._
_This fish inhabits both the European and the American seas, and is from
ten or twelve inches to two feet in length._
The prices at which the surmullet was sometimes purchased by the Romans
were enormously great. We read of a Roman consul having given at the rate
of more than 64l. of our money for one of them; and of one of the Roman
emperors having paid upwards of 240l. for another--to such an absurdity of
extravagance did this people arrive before the dissolution of their empire.
But it went further:--they are said to have considered even the surmullet
of little value unless it died in the very hands of their guests. Some of
the most luxurious of the Romans had stews formed even in their
eating-rooms, so that the fish could at once be brought from under the
table and placed upon it. Here they were put into transparent vases, that
the guests might be entertained with their various changes of colour, from
red to violet and blue, as they expired. The parts chiefly admired for the
table were the head and the liver.
Both the above species of surmullet occasionally visit our coasts during
the summer season. Their flesh is white, firm, and well-tasted; but they
cannot long be kept without becoming putrid.
230. _GURNARDS_ (Trigla, Fig. 62.) _are fish with a large angular and
bony head; and two or more distinct appendages near the pectoral fins._
Of about fifteen known species of gurnards, five are caught near the
British coasts. These are the GREY GURNARD, RED GURNARD, PIPER, TUB-FISH,
and STREAKED GURNARD, of which the two former are considered best for the
table. Their flesh is white, firm, and good, though somewhat insipid; and
they are thought to be in greatest perfection from about the beginning of
May to the end of July.