200. _The ROMAN EEL_ (Muræna helena, Fig. 56) _is a long and slimy fish,
of serpentine form, variously marked and spotted, and destitute of
pectoral fins._
_It is an inhabitant both of fresh and salt waters, and is chiefly found
in the Mediterranean sea, and the rivers that run into that sea._
By the Romans this fish was regarded one of the greatest delicacies which
could be introduced at their tables; and instances have been recorded of
wealthy persons having even fed them with the flesh of slaves that had been
condemned to die, believing that they were thereby rendered still more
delicious.
On many parts of the coast of Italy reservoirs were made in the sea for
storing and fattening these fish in; and the luxurious Sybarites exempted
from every kind of tribute the persons who sold them. Representations of
them were made into ear-rings, and into other ornaments for female attire.
Pliny tells us, that one of the Roman punishments for youths under the age
of seventeen years was to flog them with whips made of eel-skin.
201. _The COMMON EEL_ (Muræna anguilla, Fig. 55) _is distinguishable by
its lower jaw being somewhat longer than the upper, and the body being of
an uniform colour._
_It is an inhabitant of rivers and ponds in almost every country of
Europe; and sometimes grows to the weight of fifteen or twenty pounds._
The _flesh_ of the eel affords a very rich and delicious food; and, were it
not for groundless prejudices, arising from its serpent-like shape, this
fish would be in much greater request for the table than it now is.
So abundant are eels, in many of the rivers adjacent to the sea, that, in
the first autumnal floods several tons' weight have sometimes been caught
in a day; and, in the river Ban, near Coleraine, in Ireland, there is an
eel-fishery of such extent as to be let for 1000l. per annum. The modes of
taking eels are various; but these are chiefly by traps or engines of
different kinds, so contrived as to admit of their entering, but to prevent
their return.
In the river Nyne, Northamptonshire, a small kind of eels are caught, with
small head and narrow mouths, which have the name _bed-eels_. What are
called, in the south of England, _grigs_, _gluts_, or _snigs_, are a
variety of the common eel with larger head, blunter nose, and thicker skin.
_Silver eels_ owe probably their distinction of colour to the clear and
gravelly streams in which they feed.
Eels are considered in highest perfection for the table from the
commencement of spring till about the end of July; yet they continue good
till the end of September. The modes of cooking them are numerous and well
known. In some parts of the Continent the _skins_ are made into a kind of
ropes, which have great strength and durability. The inhabitants of several
of the districts of Tartary use them, in place of glass, for windows; and,
in the Orkney Islands, they are worn as a remedy for the cramp. Bits of
eel-skin are not unfrequently put into coffee to clarify it. In many parts
of the North of Europe the _scales_, which are extremely minute, are mixed
with cement to give a silvery lustre to the houses.
202. _The CONGER, or SEA EEL_ (Muræna conger), _is chiefly distinguished
from the common eel by the lower jaw being shorter than the upper, and
the lateral or side line being white._
_It is found in all the European seas; and, when at its full growth,
measures from six to twelve feet in length, and from twelve to twenty
inches in circumference._
So numerous are congers on some of the British shores, that, from Mount's
Bay, in Cornwall, there have, in some years, been more than ten tons'
weight of dried congers exported to different parts of Spain and Portugal.
These fish are also peculiarly abundant in the neighbourhood of the Orkneys
and Hebrides. They are chiefly caught with strong lines, each about 500
feet in length, and having sixty hooks placed about eight feet asunder. The
lines are sunk in the sea, and sometimes so many of them are fastened
together that they extend nearly a mile in length.
The _flesh_ of the conger is white, but coarse and greasy; and, though
frequently eaten, is to some persons extremely disgusting. In the salting
and drying of these fish they shrink to less than one-fourth part of their
original weight, and the process is attended by the most nauseous stench.
By the Spaniards and Portuguese dried congers are ground or beaten into
powder, to thicken and give a relish to soups.
203. _SAND-LAUNCE, SAND EEL, or WRECKLE_ (Ammodytes tobianus), _is a
small fish, distinguished by its eel-shape, its head being narrower than
the body, the lower jaw much longer than the upper, and the upper lip
being doubled._
_There is only one ascertained species of launce: this is found on sandy
sea-shores in the Northern Ocean, and seldom exceeds the length of six or
eight inches._
From about the end of June to the middle of October these brilliant little
fish are caught in great numbers on the southern coasts of England. They
are sometimes fished for with seine nets, which have small meshes, and
sometimes are dug out of the sand, at low water, with a kind of fork that
has three or four short and flat prongs.
When eaten perfectly fresh, these are among the richest and most delicious
fish that are known. But, to have them in perfection, they should be cooked
almost immediately after they are caught. They so soon become putrid that
it would be impossible to convey them to any distant market. The
inhabitants of some parts of the Continent salt and dry them, and, in this
state, they are considered a great delicacy.
204. _The EUROPEAN SWORD-FISH_ (Xiphias gladius, Fig. 57) _is known by
having its upper jaw lengthened into a hard and sword-shaped blade; and
its dorsal fin long, and lowest in the middle._
_These fish are of steel-blue colour, and measure from fifteen to twenty
feet in length._
_They are found in most parts of the European seas._
By the ancient Romans sword-fish were highly esteemed as food; and were
killed, with harpoons, by persons stationed in boats for that purpose. They
were not only eaten fresh, but were also cut into pieces and salted. The
inhabitants of Sicily are, at this day, extremely partial to them, and
purchase them, particularly the smaller ones, at very high prices. The
parts chiefly in request are those about the belly and tail. In several
places, near the Mediterranean, the fins are salted and sold under the name
of _callo_.