Again we cross over southward from the Rappahannock to another broad
tidal estuary, an arm of Chesapeake Bay, the York River. This is
formed by two comparatively small rivers, the Mattapony and the
Pamunkey, the latter being the Indian name of York River. It is quite
evident that the Indians who originally frequented and named these
streams did not have as comfortable lives in that region as they could
have wished, for the Mattapony means "no bread at all to be had," and
the Pamunkey means "where we were all sweating." To the southward of
York River, and between it and James River, is the famous "Peninsula,"
the locality of the first settlements in Virginia, the theatre of the
closing scene of the War of the Revolution, and the route taken by
General McClellan in his Peninsular campaign of 1862 against Richmond.
Williamsburg, which stands on an elevated plateau about midway of the
Peninsula, three or four miles from each river, was the ancient
capital of Virginia, and it has as relics the old church and magazine
of the seventeenth century, and the venerable College of William and
Mary, chartered in 1693, though its present buildings are mainly
modern. This city was named for King William III., and was fixed as
the capital in 1699, the government removing from Jamestown the next
year. In 1780 the capital was again removed to Richmond. This old
city, which was besieged and captured by McClellan in his march up the
Peninsula in May, 1862, now has about eighteen hundred inhabitants.
Down on the bank of York River, not far from Chesapeake Bay, with a
few remains of the British entrenchments still visible, is Yorktown,
the scene of Cornwallis's surrender, the last conflict of the American
Revolution. Sir Henry Clinton, the British commander-in-chief in 1781,
ordered Lord Cornwallis to occupy a strong defensible position in
Virginia, and he established himself at Yorktown on August 1st, with
his army of eight thousand men, supported by several warships in York
River, and strongly fortified not only Yorktown, but also Gloucester
Point, across the river. In September the American and French forces
effected a junction at Williamsburg, marching to the investment of
Yorktown on the 28th. Washington commanded the besieging forces,
numbering about sixteen thousand men, of whom seven thousand were
Frenchmen. Upon their approach the British abandoned the outworks, and
the investment of the town was completed on the 30th. The first
parallel of the siege was established October 9th, and heavy batteries
opened with great effect, dismounting numerous British guns, and
destroying on the night of the 10th a frigate and three large
transports. The second parallel was opened on the 11th, and on the
14th, by a brilliant movement, two British redoubts were captured. The
French fleet, under Count De Grasse, in Chesapeake Bay, prevented
escape by sea, and Cornwallis's position became very critical. On the
16th he made a sortie, which failed, and on the 17th he proposed
capitulation. The terms being arranged, he surrendered October 19th,
this deciding the struggle for American independence. When the British
troops marched out of the place, and passed between the French and
American armies, it is recorded that their bands dolefully played "The
World Turned Upside Down." Considering the momentous results
following the capitulation, this may be regarded as prophetic.
Yorktown was again besieged in 1862 by McClellan, and after several
weeks was taken in May, the army then starting on its march up the
Peninsula.
[Illustration: _The Natural Bridge, Virginia_]