The crowning glory of Washington is the Capitol, its towering dome,
surmounted by the colossal statue of America, being the prominent
landmark, seen from afar, on every approach to the city. The total
height to the top of the statue is three hundred and seventy-five feet
above the Potomac River level. The grand position, vast architectural
mass and impressive effect of the Capitol from almost every point of
view have secured for it the praise of the best artistic judges of all
countries as the most imposing modern edifice in the world. From the
high elevation of the Capitol dome there is a splendid view to the
westward over the city spread upon the lower ground beyond the base of
Capitol Hill. Diagonally to the southwest and northwest extend two
grand avenues as far as eye can see--Maryland Avenue to the left
leading down to the Potomac, and carrying the line of the Pennsylvania
Railroad to the river, where it crosses over the Long Bridge into
Virginia; and Pennsylvania Avenue to the right, stretching to the
distant colonnade of the Treasury Building and the tree-covered park
south of the Executive Mansion. Between these diverging avenues and
extending to the Potomac, more than a mile away, is the Mall, a broad
enclosure of lawns and gardens. Upon it in the foreground is the
Government Botanical Garden, and behind this the spacious grounds
surrounding the Smithsonian Institution; while beyond, near the river
bank, rises the tall white shaft of the Washington Monument, with its
pointed apex.
On either side spreads out the city, the houses bordering the
foliage-lined streets, and having at frequent intervals the tall
spires of churches, and the massive marble, granite and brick edifices
that are used for Government buildings. In front, to the west, is the
wide channel of the Potomac, and to the south and southeast the
Anacostia, their streams uniting at Greenleaf's Point, where the
Government Arsenal is located. On the heights beyond the point, and
across the Anacostia, is the spacious Government Insane Asylum. Far
away on the Virginia shore, across the Potomac, rises a long range of
wooded hills, amid which is Arlington Heights and its pillared
edifice, which was the home of George Washington Parke Custis, the
grandson of Mrs. Washington and General Washington's adopted son, and
was subsequently the residence of General Robert E. Lee, who married
Miss Custis. Spreading broadly over the forest-clad hills is the
Arlington National Cemetery, where fifteen thousand soldiers of the
Civil War are buried. At the distant horizon to the left rises the
spire of Fairfax Seminary, and beyond, down the Potomac, is seen the
city of Alexandria, the river between being dotted with vessels. To
the northwest, behind the Executive Mansion, is the spacious building
of the State, War and Navy Departments, having for a background the
picturesque Georgetown Heights, just over the District boundary, their
tops rising four hundred feet above the river. Farther to the
northward is Seventh Street Hill, crowned with the buildings of Howard
University, and beyond it the distant tower of the Soldiers' Home. All
around the view is magnificent; and years ago, before the city
expected to attain anything like its present grandeur, Baron von
Humboldt, as he stood upon the western verge of Capitol Hill and
surveyed this gorgeous picture, exclaimed: "I have not seen a more
charming panorama in all my travels."
After the British burnt the original Capitol, it was rebuilt and
finished in 1827; but the unexampled growth of the country and of
Congress soon demanded an extension, which was begun in 1851. It is
this extension which supplied the wings and dome, designed and
constructed by the late Thomas U. Walter, that has made the building
so attractive. This grand Republican palace of government, stretching
over seven hundred and fifty feet along the top of the hill, has cost
about $16,000,000. The old central building is constructed of Virginia
freestone, painted white, the massive wings are of white marble from
Massachusetts, and the lofty dome is of iron. The dazzling white
marble gleams in the sunlight, and fitly closes the view along the
great avenues radiating from it as a common centre. The architecture
is classic, with Corinthian details, and, to add dignity to the
western front, which overlooks the city, a magnificent marble terrace,
eight hundred and eighty-four feet long, has been constructed at its
base on the crest of the hill, which is approached by two broad
flights of steps.
The Capitol is surrounded by a park of about fifty acres, including
the western declivity of the hill and part of the plateau on top. Upon
this plateau, on the eastern front, the populace assemble every fourth
year to witness the inauguration of the President when he is sworn
into office by the Chief Justice, and delivers his inaugural address
from a broad platform at the head of the elaborate staircase leading
up to the entrance to the great central rotunda. In full view of the
President, as he stands under the grand Corinthian portico, is a
colossal statue of Washington, seated in his chair of state, and
facing the new President, as if in solemn warning. The rotunda is the
most striking feature of the Capitol interior; it is nearly one
hundred feet in diameter, and rises one hundred and eighty feet to
the ceiling of the dome, which is ornamented with fine frescoes by
Brumidi. Large panelled paintings on the walls just above the floor,
and _alti rilievi_ over them, represent events in the early history of
the country, while at a height of one hundred feet a band nine feet
wide runs around the interior of the dome, upon which a series of
frescoes tell the story of American history from the landing of
Columbus. But, most appropriately, the elaborate decorations, while
reproducing so much in Indian legend and Revolutionary story, are not
used in any way to recall the Civil War. Away up in the top of the
dome there is a Whispering Gallery, to which a stairway laboriously
leads.
The old halls of the Senate and House in the original wings of the
Capitol are now devoted, the former to the Supreme Court and the
latter to a gallery of statuary, to which each State contributes two
subjects, mostly Revolutionary or Colonial heroes. Beyond, on either
hand, are the extensive new wings--the Senate Chamber to the north and
the Representatives' Hall to the south. Each is surrounded by
corridors, beyond which are committee rooms, and there are spacious
galleries for the public. Each member has his chair and desk, the
seats being arranged in semicircles around the rostrum. In practice,
while the House is in session, the members are usually reading or
writing, excepting the few who may watch what is going on, because
they are specially interested in the matter under consideration; and
the member who may have the floor and is speaking is actually heard by
very few, his speech being generally made for the galleries and the
official stenographers and newspaper reporters. Debate rarely reaches
a point of interest absorbing the actual attention of the whole House,
most of the speech-making seeming to be delivered for effect in the
member's home district, this method being usually described as
"talking for Buncombe." The other members read their newspapers, write
their letters, clap their hands sharply to summon the nimble pages who
run about the hall upon their errands, gossip in groups, and otherwise
pass their time, move in and out the cloak- and committee-rooms, and
in various ways manage not to listen to much that goes on.
Nevertheless, business progresses under an iron-clad code of
procedure, the Speaker being a despot who largely controls
legislation. The surroundings of the Senate Chamber are grander than
those of the House, there being a gorgeous "Marble Hall," in which
Senators give audience to their visitors, and magnificently ornamented
apartments for the President and Vice-President. The President's Room
is only occupied during a few hours in the closing scenes of a
session, this small but splendid apartment, which has had $50,000
expended upon its decoration, being a show place for the remainder of
the year.