There appear to me to be the means of tracing this national crime to the

individuals who perpetrate it; and it is with the deepest sorrow that I

am obliged to confess that my countrymen have not, in Tasmania, exhibited

that magnanimity which has often been the prominent feature in their

character. They have sternly and systematically trampled on the fallen. I

have before remarked that they started with an erroneous theory, which

they found to tally with their interests, and to relieve them from the

burden of benevolence and charity. That the aborigines were not men, but

brutes, was their avowed opinion; and what cruelties flowed from such a

doctrine! It is not my purpose to enter into details; I will only add

that the treatment of the poor captive native by her inhuman keeper was

in accordance with the sentiments prevailing, at one time, in the colony,

and would not have received the condemnation of public opinion.

The natural consequence of such conduct by the whites, commenced in the

very infancy of the colony, was a system of frightful retaliation on the

part of the natives. These led to counter-reprisals, every year

accumulating the debt of crime and vengeance on either hand, until the

memory of the first provocation was lost, and a war of extermination, the

success of which was, in the end, complete, began to be carried on.

ATTEMPTED CAPTURE OF NATIVES.

It was not until exasperation, on either side, rose to its highest, that

measures were taken to prevent the complete destruction of the

aborigines. The first method selected was not characterized by prudence;

being the result of the passionate counsels of the great body of

colonists, who were smarting under evils entailed upon them by their own

violent conduct. As is natural in all these cases, they looked only to

the necessity of protecting their property and their lives; and did not

take into account the massacres, the cruelties of every description,

which had been at one time encouraged, or at least not condemned by the

general voice. The casuistry of the human heart, in most instances,

concealed the true state of the case, and many, if not the majority, felt

the virtuous indignation which some only affected. At any rate, they set

about the hunting down and capture of the aborigines, as a duty which

they owed to themselves and their families. Government, with the best

intentions, lent them every assistance in its power. The whole colony

rose to a man; and military operations on a most extensive scale were

undertaken. Cordons were established, marches and countermarches

performed, complicated manoeuvres planned and executed, and every method

resorted to, which in a different country and against a different enemy

must have been rewarded with complete success. But in this instance, the

impenetrable forests of Tasmania baffled the generalship and the tactics

that were displayed; and an expedition attended with immense expense, and

carried on with the greatest enthusiasm, ended in the capture of a single

native.

REMOVAL OF ABORIGINES TO FLINDERS ISLAND.

It was now evident that means of another character must be tried, and the

plan which Mr. Robinson had laid before Government for the capture of the

natives in the meshes of persuasion was adopted. This enterprising

person, accordingly, went alone and unattended among the aborigines,

endured great privations, ran much risk, but finally, partly by his

eloquence, partly by stratagem, contrived to bring in the tribes one by

one, and to transport them quietly to the islands in the eastern entrance

of Bass Strait. Mr. Bateman, commanding the colonial brig, Tamar, who

took them across, describes them as reconciled to their fate, though

during the whole passage they sat on the vessel's bulwark, shaking little

bags of human bones, apparently as a charm against the danger to which

they felt exposed.

They were first taken to Swan Island, but that not being found

convenient, they were landed on the west side of Flinders Island, under

the superintendence of Mr. Robinson. This place, also, was discovered to

be ill-adapted for a permanent settlement; and a removal again took place

to Vansittart or Gun-carriage Island, at the eastern extremity of

Franklin Channel, where a number of sealers had been resident for some

years; as, however, they could not show any title to the land they

cultivated, except that of original occupancy--a title which I think

should be respected, as it is the only true basis of the right of

property--they were obliged to vacate, leaving their huts and crops to be

laid waste. In the course of a few weeks, when considerable mischief had

been effected, this position, likewise, was abandoned, and a location

made once more on the west side of Flinders, about sixteen miles to the

northward of Franklin Inlet.

SETTLEMENT.

The Home Government directed that in this their place of banishment every

attention should be paid to the wants of the aborigines, and a liberal

scale of necessaries provided. The officers of the establishment

originally consisted of the superintendent, medical officer, catechist

and storekeeper; but when the buildings, etc. for the settlement, were

completed, the convicts were withdrawn, which diminished the number so

much, that it was deemed practicable to reduce the staff of officers, and

the whole duties of the four departments above alluded to devolved on one

person, under the name of Surgeon-Superintendent. The combination of so

many duties has, unfortunately, necessitated the neglect of some portion

or another, possibly of the most material. The Sabbath afternoon is the

only time that can be set apart for the religious instruction of the

natives. This is to be regretted, as we have ample evidence of how

capable they are of receiving it, in the lasting effects produced by Mr.

Clarke, who sometime since filled the office of storekeeper; and for whom

they all continue to feel great veneration, and to exhibit that respect

which is due to a parent. On our visit in 1842 we heard all the natives

of both sexes, old and young, sing several hymns, taught them by this

excellent person. A few comprehended the full meaning of the words they

uttered; and all, no doubt, might be brought to do so if proper

instructions were again granted them.

Walter and Mary Ann, a married couple, who had recently returned from

Port Phillip, where they had been living in the family of the former

superintendent, Mr. Robinson, were so civilized, and proficient in all

the plain parts of education, that they possessed great influence over

their countrymen, who, incited by the contemplation of their superiority,

were apparently desirous of acquiring knowledge. The barracks in which

the natives dwell form a square of good stone buildings; but Walter and

his wife have a separate cottage, with a piece of land attached. Mary Ann

is a very tolerable needlewoman, and capable of teaching the others; some

of whom, encouraged by the prizes that are awarded to industry, already

assist in making their own dresses.

MORTALITY AMONG NATIVES.

The men, to whom inducements are also held out to labour in farming,

etc., are, however, generally indolent. They still retain a taste for

their original wild habits, taking to the bush, occasionally, for several

days together; and in order to enjoy all the freedom of limb to which

they had been accustomed, throwing off their European clothing. This

practice has been expressly prohibited, as from the sudden resumption of

savage habits, and the abandonment of the covering to which they had

become accustomed, severe illness resulted. To this may in part be

attributable the rapid mortality which exists among them, and which leads

us to suppose that at no distant period their utter extinction must take

place. Out of two hundred who were originally taken to Flinders Island,

more than one hundred and fifty had perished in 1842, to replace which

loss, an addition of only fourteen by births, besides seven brought in

the Vansittart, had been made. It seems, in truth, impossible that a race

transported from their country, suddenly compelled to change all their

habits and modes of life, kept under restraint, however mild and

paternal, obliged to repress all the powerful instincts which lead them

to desire a renewal of their wild and unfettered life, tormented by the

memory of the freedom they once enjoyed, and galled by the moral chain

which they now wear, constantly sighing in secret for the perilous charms

of the wilderness, for their hunts, and their corrobberies, for the hills

and mountains and streams of their native land--it is impossible, I say,

that a people whose life has undergone such a change, who cherish such

reminiscences and such regrets, should increase and multiply and

replenish the face of the land.

TREATMENT OF NATIVES.

Their destiny is accomplished. In obedience to a necessity--of man's

creating certainly, but still a necessity--they have been expatriated for

their own preservation; to restore them, would be but to ensure their

speedier destruction; and all we can do is to soothe their declining

years, to provide that they shall advance gently, surrounded by all the

comforts of civilization, and by all the consolations of religion, to

their inevitable doom; and to draw a great lesson from their melancholy

history, namely, that we should not leave, until it is too late, the

aborigines of the countries we colonize exposed to the dangers of an

unregulated intercourse with the whites; that, without giving them any

undue preference, without falling into the dangerous extreme of

favouritism--an error of which the most high-minded and generous are

susceptible in the case of a depressed race--we should consider, that in

entering their country we incur a great responsibility, and that it

behoves us at once to establish distinctly the relation in which they

stand to the government, the colonists, and the soil!

COAST FROM THE TAMAR TO EMU BAY.

Mr. Fitzmaurice's examination of the coast to the westward extended to

Dial Point, distant twenty-nine miles from the Tamar. In this space there

are no less than five rivers, all with very short courses, and not

navigable except by boats and small craft; and by these only, on account

of the surf on their bars, in fine weather. The first empties itself into

an estuary, called Port Sorel; but it is difficult to detect the mouths

of the others in the low sandy shore, which is deceptive, as the hills

rising immediately in the rear give the coast a bold striking appearance

from the offing. These rivers, namely, the Sorel, the Mersey,* the Don,

the Frith, and the Leven, are distant from the Tamar, eleven, eighteen,

twenty, twenty-three and twenty-seven miles.

(*Footnote. A horse-shoe reef, extending nearly two miles from the shore,

lies two miles to the eastward.)

A range of hills, nearly 2000 feet high, in which asbestos is found, lies

midway between Port Sorel and the Tamar; and immediately over Dial Point

rises a peaked range, of the same name; whilst Valentine Peak,* 4000 feet

in height, is situated twenty-three miles South 40 degrees West from the

above point. This peak is a bare mass of granite, and as it glistens in

the first beams of the morning sun like an immense spire, forms the most

remarkable hill-feature in the north side of Tasmania. High level ranges

extend to the eastward of it for some distance.

(*Footnote. In latitude 41 degrees 17 minutes South and longitude 5

degrees 28 1/2 minutes West of Sydney, and when bearing South by West is

a distant guide to Emu Bay.)

From Dial Point to Circular Head the coast trends North 72 degrees West,

and as far as Rocky Point the shore is steep and woody. Emu Bay* lies at

the end of the first ten miles; it is a confined anchorage, affording

shelter in westerly winds. A river of the same name runs into it, and

another called the Blyth joins the sea a mile and a half on the Tamar

side of the east point, which has a remarkable round hill on it: nearly

four and five and a half miles to the westward of this bay are other

small streams. An islet lies at the mouth of the eastern one; and in its

neighbourhood only the shore, which falls back a little, is sandy and

faced with rocks.

(*Footnote. The North-West or Blackman's Point is low, and in latitude 41

degrees 2 minutes 45 seconds South, longitude 5 degrees 18 minutes 50

seconds West of Sydney.)

ROCKY CAPE.

The River Inglis is of a good size; but a reef extends off the mouth and

some distance to the eastward; it is two miles and a half to the

South-South-East of a headland, called Table Cape, the distances between

which, Rocky Cape, Circular Head, and Emu Bay, are equal, namely, eleven

miles and a half. Rocky Cape has a high pointed summit, with other peaks

in the rear; a sunken rock is said to lie a mile and a half north of it;

and the coast from thence to Circular Head falls back, forming a bight;

five miles to the south-east of it is a sandy bay with a small rivulet

running into it. The Sisters, two round hills, 870 feet high, renders the

east point remarkable; an islet with a reef of considerable extent fronts

it for some distance.

ESCAPED CONVICTS.

One of the pilots at Port Dalrymple, I found, had travelled along the

west coast of Tasmania, from Macquarie Harbour to Point Woolnorth. He

crossed four or five small rivers; but the country was covered with a low

scrub, growing in an impenetrable network along the surface of the soil,

so that he could only make progress by keeping the shore. He was landed

from a colonial vessel, by a party of convicts who had taken possession

of it, and afterwards succeeded in reaching Valdivia, on the west coast

of South America. They scuttled the vessel off the harbour's mouth, and

came in in the boat, reporting it to have foundered. Being useful

artificers in such an out of the way place, few inquiries were made about

them, and they were received by the governor as a very acceptable

addition to the population. Singular to say, when at Valdivia in 1835, I

saw some of these men; they were married, and continued to be regarded as

a very great acquisition, although a kind of mystery was attached to

them. However, their enjoyment of liberty and repose was destined to be

but short. Their whereabouts became known, and a man of war was sent to

take them. All but one again effected their escape, in a boat they had

just finished for the governor; and they have not since been heard of.

The remaining delinquent was afterwards hanged at Hobart, where he gave a

detailed and interesting narrative of the whole affair.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE NAVIGATION OF THE MOUTH OF THE TAMAR.

The few quiet days we had during our stay at Port Dalrymple, enabled us

satisfactorily to complete the soundings at the entrance. Beacons were

also erected on the shore by the Beagle's crew, for guiding vessels

through the channels; they, however, require to be kept white, in order

to show well against the dark ground behind. I furnished Lieutenant M.

Friend, R.N. the port officer, with a few notes on the navigation of the

Tamar, which, for the sake of the nautical reader, I give below.*

(*Footnote. The most formidable shoal in the mouth of the Tamar, bearing

the name of the Middle Ground, is a rocky patch, with, according to

report, only 9 feet on one spot at low-water, spring tides, but the least

depth found on it by the (Beagle's) boats was 12 feet. The north extreme

of Low Head, in one with the first black cliffy projection to the

eastward of it, or the flagstaff on Low Head, open northward of the

lighthouse, clears the northern edge of it. The leading marks for

entering eastward of the Middle Ground, generally called the Eastern

Channel, are the Shear and West Beacons. The latter stands in front of

Dr. Browne's house, which is the first inside Point Friend, the western

entrance point. The Shear Beacon must be kept a little open to the left

or eastward of the West Beacon, until you get abreast of the lighthouse;

after which, both beacons should be kept in one. When within two cables

and a half of the Shear Beacon, the course should be changed in the

direction of the Red Beacon on the Barrel Rock, the first on the eastern

side, to avoid a patch of kelp, extending one cable and a half in an

easterly direction from the Shear Beacon, the depth, there, at low-water

is 9 fathoms, and the least in the channel is 4 fathoms, on a ledge,

apparently extending from Low Head to the Middle Ground.

The Western Channel is two cables wide, with a depth, in the shoalest

part, of 10 fathoms; it is formed by the Middle Ground on the eastern

side, and the Yellow Rock Reef on the western; the latter is an extensive

patch of kelp, with a double light-coloured rock near its extremity. The

least water on it at low-water is 6 feet; from the Shear Beacon, it bears

North 50 degrees West five-tenths of a mile, and from the lighthouse,

South 52 degrees West eight-tenths of a mile. The Shear Beacon and the

flagstaff at George Town in a line lead over the outer extreme. There is

generally a white buoy in its vicinity, and a black one on the western

edge of the Middle Ground. The Barrel Rock red beacon, and the high and

low white beacons, erected by the Beagle's crew on the shore over Lagoon

Bay, kept in one, lead through the Western Channel. When abreast of the

Shear Beacon, steer for the next beyond on the west side of the channel,

to avoid a long patch of kelp, with three and five fathoms in it,

extending two cables and a half to the South-South-West of the Barrel

Rock.

The high part of the Western Reef, bearing South by East leads into the

fairway of the Western Channel, when will be seen the white beacons over

Lagoon Bay. The latter is the second sandy beach inside the lighthouse on

the eastern shore. The Western Reefs are those fronting Point Friend; the

part above-mentioned, the only spot uncovered at high-water, is a black

patch of rocks near their northern extreme.

The only danger near the entrance of the Tamar is the Hebe Reef, named

after a ship lost on it in 1808; it occupies a space of a quarter of a

mile, chiefly in an east direction. A small portion of its centre is

nearly dry at low-water; this part bears South 89 degrees West, three

miles and three-tenths from the lighthouse on Low Head; inside it there

is a channel of 7 fathoms. The guide for passing northward of it, is a

white spot on the North-West extreme of Low Head in one with the

lighthouse; the latter will then bear East 16 degrees South.

The shoals, on either side, within the entrance of the river, are marked

with beacons. Those on the western shore, have a letter V sideways with a

vertical bar on the top; and those on the eastern a dagger. Shoals marked

with chequered buoys, may be passed on either side; a red or black buoy,

signifies that the danger extends from the eastern shore; and a white

one, that it extends from the western.

The result of 115 tidal observations, taken three miles within the

entrance, gives 12 hours 06 minutes for the time of high-water on the

full and change day. The rise of tide was irregular, the least being 4,

and the greatest 10 feet. The highest noticed in the Beagle was during

the neaps, caused by a strong North-West gale forcing the water into the

river. The tides flow 5 hours 50 minutes, and ebb 6 hours 25 minutes,

with a velocity varying from two to five miles an hour, according as the

river is confined or open. The ebb-stream setting round Low Head into the

bay to the eastward, is apt to drift vessels in that direction. Three

miles in the offing the flood-stream runs from one to two knots to the

West-North-West.

The position of the lighthouse on Low Head is as follows: latitude 41

degrees 03 minutes 26 seconds South, longitude 4 degrees 25 minutes 44

seconds West, of Sydney; or 146 degrees 50 minutes 16 seconds East of

Greenwich, variation 10 degrees 05 minutes easterly. The light is

elevated 140 feet above the sea-level, and may be seen, in clear weather,

sixteen miles from the decks of small vessels, revolving once in fifty

seconds.)

THE GLENNIE ISLES.

On December 19th both vessels left the Tamar; the Vansittart for Flinders

Island, to land the unfortunate natives; whilst the Beagle crossed the

strait to Wilson's Promontory, anchoring behind an island two miles long,

trending north and south, with a hollow in the centre, forming a saddle,

the highest part being 450 feet high. It is the northernmost of a group

called the Glennie Islands, fronting the south-western face of the

Promontory; and is strewn over with blocks of granite, which give it a

castellated appearance. We did not find this anchorage very good, the

depth being 20 fathoms, and the bottom sand over rock. Three small islets

lie close to the south-west point, and a reef extends a cable's length

off the northern. There is a passage nearly four miles wide, and 23

fathoms deep, between this part of Glennie's Group and the Promontory.

The singular break in the high land on the latter, bearing East 1/2 North

is a distant guide to the anchorage, in which the flood-tide sets to the

northward, and when aided by the current, attains a strength of a knot

and a half; the time of high-water, is a quarter of an hour later than at

Refuge Cove.

We found on this, the largest of the group, a small black dog, that had

been left behind by some visitor, recently I should say, from his anxiety

to be taken on board, which was done. It was, also, on this island that

the intrepid Bass met a number of runaway convicts, who had been

treacherously left by their companions one night when asleep, the party

being too large for the boat they had run away with from Sydney, with the

intention of plundering the wreck of the Sydney Cove, at Preservation

Island in Banks Strait. Thus they were actually the first to traverse

this part of the Strait, which has received its name from the

enterprising Mr. Bass.

CAPE LIPTRAP.

Leaving the Glennie Isles we examined the coast beyond Cape Liptrap;* and

from thence made the best of our way to Western Port. There I availed

myself of the kind offer of Mr. Anderson--a settler on the Bass River,

who was going to Cape Patterson, to shoot wild cattle, the produce of the

stock left behind when the old settlement was abandoned--to give Mr.

Fitzmaurice, and a small party, conveyance in his bullock dray to that

projection, for the purpose of determining its position. A party was also

landed on the eastern entrance of Grant Island, to collect tidal

observations.

(*Footnote. The next headland to Wilson's Promontory, from the extreme of

which it bears North-West by West, twenty-four miles; the shore between

recedes, forming a bay nine miles deep. The Cape lies in latitude 38

degrees 55 minutes South, longitude 5 degrees 17 minutes West of Sydney,

145 degrees 57 minutes East, and is the extreme of a tableland three

hundred and fifty feet high. A small islet lies close to the shore, about

two miles northward from the extreme, where there is a boat cove. Where

the rocky coast ceases to the eastward, the shore falls back, affording

shelter for vessels in north-west winds; a rock lies off the southern

point of this anchorage.)

CORIO HARBOUR.

Having made these arrangements, we left for Port Phillip, where, after

landing another party at Shortland's Bluff, also to make tidal

observations, we pursued our course round Indented Head towards Corio

Harbour, anchoring off Point Henry--where no less than four vessels were

lading with wool for England--early on the morning of the 27th. We

devoted the remainder of this day and the next to making a plan of the

harbour; and from the result of our survey I feel more than ever

convinced that the bar (through the northern part of which a channel

winds for vessels of eight feet at low-water) might be removed, and the

entrance rendered fit for vessels of any draught. There is deep water in

the south-western part, close to the northern side of Geelong, where, by

erecting wharfs, large ships might discharge alongside, an advantage

which can never be obtained at Melbourne,* and of so great importance

that I am induced to believe Geelong will ultimately be the capital of

Australia Felix. In this event communication will be held with Melbourne

by railroad, for which the country intervening is admirably adapted,

being a complete level the entire way. At present a steamer plies daily

between the two places; and when we consider that on our last visit, only

two years before, Geelong consisted of a few sheds at its north end only,

and now stretched across from Corio Harbour to the River Barwon, a space

of more than a mile, the belief seems warranted that at no distant period

the line of rail I allude to must be laid down. The township is now

divided into North and South Geelong; the latter lies on a slope,

reaching the river's edge.

(*Footnote. Corio Harbour is in fact the best anchorage in Port Phillip,

that at Hobson's Bay being very confined, and scarcely affording any

shelter from southerly winds for large ships. Moreover, Corio Harbour

lies more convenient for the western districts, there being no other

place where the sheep-farmers of those parts can, with safety, ship their

wool, except Portland Bay.)

CAPTAIN FYANS.

Located in a snug house, with a garden teeming with flowers, that

reminded one of home, and overlooking a still reach of the Barwon, I

found Captain Fyans, of whom I have before spoken.

ENCOUNTER WITH A NATIVE.

In the course of conversation, pointing to a weapon used by the natives,

called a Lliangle, resembling a miner's pick, he said, "I had that driven

through my horse's nose, a short time since, by a native, of whom I was

in pursuit." As I expressed a desire to be made acquainted with the

circumstance, he informed me, that being out with a party of mounted

police, in search of some natives who had been committing depredations on

the flocks of the settlers, in the neighbourhood of Port Fairey, he

suddenly, whilst crossing a valley in advance of his men, came upon the

chief of those of whom he was in chase. He, too, was alone; an attack

immediately commenced. The native threw his spears, but without effect;

and Captain Fyans, finding that the rain had wetted the priming of his

pistols, charged to cut him down; but such was his antagonist's dexterity

in defending himself with his shield, only a narrow piece of wood, that

beyond a few nicks on the fingers, Captain Fyans' sword-cuts were of no

avail. Several times he attempted to ride over the native; who, however,

doubled himself up in a ball under his shield, and was saved by the

natural reluctance of a horse to trample on a prostrate man in going over

him. After having been apparently more than once ridden down, the chief

managed to drive his lliangle through the horse's nose, and so firmly

that he was unable to withdraw it. The wound inflicted bled so freely

that Captain Fyans was obliged to pull up, and the native made his

escape. He was not only a fine fellow in conduct, but in person, having a

chest, as Captain Fyans expressed it, like a bullock's. I afterwards

learned that he displayed the sword-cuts upon his shield in triumph at

some of the sheep-stations.

From Corio Harbour* we proceeded to Hobson's Bay, for a meridian

distance, the result of which was highly satisfactory, differing from our

former measurement only five seconds. The longitude, therefore, of

Batman's Hill, 6 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds West of Sydney, or

(approximately) 144 degrees 59 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich, may

be relied on.

(*Footnote. The approach to this harbour would be vastly improved by a

buoy placed at the end of the spit extending nearly across from Point

Wilson on the north shore.)

MELBOURNE.

A great improvement had been made since our last visit in the approach to

the anchorage, by the erection of a light on Point Gellibrand.* This we

found to be a small lamp fixed at the top of a kind of wooden framework,

thirty feet high, suggested by the superintendent, Mr. LaTrobe; and for a

temporary economical affair, until a more expensive light can be

afforded, it is certainly a clever contrivance.

(*Footnote. This light may be seen from a ship's deck, in clear weather,

seven miles off. Vessels intending to anchor in Hobson's Bay should keep

the light bearing North-West by North until the water shoals to 6

fathoms; then steer North by West. When the lights of William Town open

out, bearing South-West by West, haul in West-South-West for the

anchorage. The best berth is in 3 1/2 fathoms, with the light bearing

South 1/4 East and the jetty at William Town South-West 1/2 West.)

The last three years had also made great additions to the buildings of

William Town; but Melbourne had so increased that we hardly knew it

again. Wharfs and stores fronted the banks of the Yarra-yarra; whilst

further down, tanners and soap-boilers had established themselves on

either side, where, formerly, had been tea-tree thickets, from which the

cheerful pipe of the bell-bird greeted the visitor. Very different,

however, were now the sights, and sounds, and smells, that assailed our

senses; the picturesque wilderness had given place to the unromantic

realities of industry; and the reign of business had superseded that of

poetry and romance.

MANNA.

Near Melbourne I again noticed the manna mentioned above, but had no

opportunity of making further observations upon it. Mr. Bynoe, however,

having since visited Australia, has turned his attention to the subject,

and the result of his experience, which will be found below, tends to

overthrow the opinion I have previously expressed, to the effect, that

this substance is the exudation of a tree, not the deposit of an insect.*

(*Footnote. There is a prevailing opinion in some parts of New Holland,

particularly on the east side, that the gumtrees distil a peculiar form

of manna, which drops at certain seasons of the year. I have heard it

from many of the inhabitants, who, on a close investigation, could only

say, that it was to be found adhering to the old and young bark of the

trees, as well as strewed on the ground beneath.

In the month of December, about the warmest period of the year, during my

rambles through the forest in search of insects, I met with this manna in

the above-mentioned state, but could never find in any part of the bark a

fissure or break whence such a substance could flow. Wherever it

appeared, moreover, the red-eyed cicadae were in abundance. I was

inclined to think that the puncture produced by these suctorial insects

into the tender shoots for juice, would in all probability give an exit

for such a substance; but by wounding the tender branches with a

sharp-pointed knife, I could never obtain a saccharine fluid or

substance. It was the season when the cicadae were abundantly collected

together for reproduction; and on warm, clear, still days, they clung to

the more umbrageous parts, particularly to trees that, having been

deprived of old limbs, shot forth vigorous stems, thickly clustered with

leaves. To one of these, in which the male insects were making an

intolerable noise, I directed my steps, and quietly sheltered myself from

a hot wind that was crossing the harbour, bringing with it a dense column

of smoke, which for a short time shut out the powerful rays of the sun. I

found that the ground about the root of the tree was thinly covered with

the sugar-like substance, and in a few minutes I felt that a fluid was

dropping, which soon congealed on my clothes into a white substance. On

rising cautiously to ascertain from whence it came, with a full

determination not to disturb the insects but to watch their pursuits, I

observed that it was passing of a syrup-like consistence per anum from

the cicadae. As it ran down the smooth branches of the gumtree and over

the leaves it gradually congealed, and formed a white efflorescence.

Whilst ejecting this fluid, the insect raised the lower part of the

abdomen and passed off three or four drops in sudden jets, which either

streamed down the stem, or fell on the leaves or ground.

I watched them for nearly half an hour, and in that space of time

observed between twenty and thirty distil this fluid, which gradually

concreted into a white substance. I collected above three ounces, some of

which I still have in my possession. The natives gather it in their rush

baskets and use it as a part of their food.)

RED BLUFF.

Leaving Hobson's Bay we passed along the east shore of Port Phillip in

search of a ledge of rocks, reported to lie about three miles off Red

Bluff, which is eight miles to the southward of the above-mentioned bay.

We, however, found this danger to be nothing more than the extreme of the

reef fronting that bluff for a distance of half a mile, in a West by

North direction, and which has three feet on it at low-water, with three

fathoms just outside. As the soundings gradually decrease to this depth,

the lead will always keep a ship clear of it.

Anchoring under Arthur's Seat, I delivered the letters with which Mr.

Powlett, Commissioner of Crown Lands at Melbourne, had kindly furnished

me, to the different settlers in the neighbourhood, requesting them to

afford me every assistance in my contemplated visit to Cape Shanck, for

the purpose of determining its position.

DR. BARKER.

One of them was addressed to a gentleman residing close to the Cape, Dr.

Barker, to whom it was forwarded, and who returned with the messenger to

welcome me to his station, and in the most liberal manner placed at my

disposal, his horses and his services.

ARTHUR'S SEAT.

Early the following morning, a well mounted party of us started for

Arthur's Seat. I wished to get a few angles from its summit, and to show

to Captain Bunbury, R.N., Superintendent of Water Police at Melbourne,

the banks at the eastern entrance of the South Channel. Dr. Barker had

brought his dogs over with him, to show us some sport on our way to Cape

Shanck. They formed quite a pack; and among them were two bloodhounds of

a celebrated Duke's breed at home. Their deep rich notes as they wound

round the foot of Arthur's Seat, after a kangaroo, were quite cheering to

the heart; but the ground was too hilly for the fast dogs, and too dry

for the scent to lie.

I was disappointed in not seeing Port Western from Arthur's Seat, which

had one of those unsatisfactory woody summits, of which it is difficult

exactly to ascertain the highest part. We passed a spring of water near

the south-eastern foot, and in a level beyond were some large lagoons.

Our course was now bent towards Cape Shanck, lying eight miles to the

south. The first part lay over a level open woodland country; low hills

then made their appearance, becoming more numerous as we neared our

destination. At their commencement we turned off the road to look for a

kangaroo; a herd was soon found; but all, after a sharp burst of a few

miles, got away from us.

KILLING A KANGAROO.

When both horses and dogs had regained their wind we went to better

ground, and came suddenly on a fine herd. A large male, called an Old Man

by the colonists, loitering to protect the does under his care, was

singled out by the fastest dog; and a splendid run ensued; the country,

however, being rather woody, and strewed with fallen timber which was

concealed by long grass, only those who risked the pace over it enjoyed

the sport. The dogs stuck well to their game, and coming at last to an

open piece of ground, the fleetest began to close with the Old Man, who

was covering an immense space in each bound. At length the dog reached

the kangaroo's quarters, and burying his teeth in them, made him face

about, cutting at his pursuer, who kept out of reach, with his hind feet,

and then turning round and endeavouring to escape. But the same liberty

being again taken with his haunches he was once more brought to bay. The

rest of the pack now came up, and a fine half-bloodhound rushed in and

seized the kangaroo* by the throat; whilst the latter, in return,

fiercely clutched the dog round the neck; a violent struggle ensued, each

trying to choke the other. Although the dog that had first reached the

Old Man was biting his quarters, the danger that the game hound would be

laid open by a cut from the kangaroo's hind feet, determined Dr. Barker

and myself to watch an opportunity of creeping up behind a tree to assist

in the struggle. We accordingly did so, and managed to seize the animal

by his monstrous tail, so that by keeping a strain on it he was prevented

from lifting his hind leg, as if he had we should have pulled him over.

(*Footnote. Although these animals have a most innocent countenance, the

large males are very dangerous when brought to bay. I know an instance of

a gentleman, who was endeavouring to assist his dog in killing one of

them, having his clothes severed in front and the skin of his body just

scratched by a cut from the hind leg. Had this person been any nearer the

kangaroo, his bowels would have been torn open. The middle toe projecting

and being armed with a strong nail, enable them to inflict dreadful

wounds, and frequently to kill dogs. It is seldom, indeed, that they will

attack a kangaroo in front; old dogs never do, but have a very clever way

of throwing the smaller kind by the stump of the tail when running.)

The dogs, thus protected from injury, were at last victorious; and the

kangaroo, a great beast, weighing nearly two hundred pounds, was soon

stretched on the ground.

CAPE SHANCK.

Having secured the tail and hind feet we continued our road to Dr.

Barker's station, situated in one of the rich valleys I have spoken of,

in an early part of the work, as lying a mile and a half to the

North-East of Cape Shanck.

On account of the state of the weather we were obliged to tax this

gentleman's hospitality for two nights, both the early parts of which

were passed on Cape Shanck, watching between the clouds for observations.

This cape is a narrow projection of calcareous formation, rendered

remarkable by a pulpit-shaped rock lying close off it. About a mile to

the north is a hill 190 feet high, which has been selected for the site

of a lighthouse for showing vessels their position off the entrance of

Port Phillip. Being so distant, however, it is of more service for Port

Western.

From Dr. Barker I received some curious information respecting the

Aborigines. It appears that there is great hostility between the Port

Phillip and Gipps' Land natives, who occasionally visit each other's

territory for the purposes of war. So great is the feeling of enmity

between them, that they will frequently take a piece of the flesh of

their foes and pass it through the skin of their thighs or arms, where

they leave it until it withers.

SOUTH CHANNEL.

Returning to the ship we placed a buoy* on the five-fathom bar at the

eastern entrance of the South Channel, the bearings from which are Whale

Head South 33 degrees West, and Arthur's Seat South 79 degrees East;

Points Nepean and Lonsdale being a little open. Passing through this

channel,** we spent an afternoon within the heads for the purpose of

visiting the lighthouse just built on Shortland's Bluff.*** This I found

to be 108 feet high; the lantern, to contain a fixed light, had not been

established. The position of this light being so far within the entrance

it is only visible between South-West 1/2 West, and South 1/4 West; and a

light placed at the extremity of the rocky ledge off Point Nepean would

be of infinitely more service in showing vessels the entrance of the

port.

(*Footnote. Another buoy at the east extremity of the bank on the north

side of the channel, which is very steep to, and one at the west end of

the bank on the south side, would render the navigation free from

difficulty, as the banks on either side can be readily made out.)

(**Footnote. The directions for entering by this line-of-battle ship

channel are as follows. After passing Point Nepean steer for Arthur's

Seat, keeping Point Flinders open south of Lonsdale Point until the last

cliffy projection is passed and bears South 1/4 West. Then steer half a

point to the left of Arthur's Seat, shutting in Point Flinders with Point

Nepean, and keeping Point Lonsdale a little open of the latter. The buoy

at the eastern entrance will now soon be made out, and should be kept in

line with Arthur's Seat. Pass on the north side of the buoy and then haul

up South-East until the water shoals to five fathoms, or until Whale Head

bears South-West by West; then steer North-East by East for Mount Martha,

the next hill north of Arthur's Seat, until the latter bears South-East,

when a course may be shaped for Hobson's Bay.)

(***Footnote. The patch of dark bushes, breaking the sand beach to the

northward, and forming one of the leading marks in, had been so thinned

that it was very indistinct. Mr. LaTrobe, however, was going to remedy

this evil by erecting a beacon on that spot.)

Whilst we were at Port Phillip this time, a schooner left in a somewhat

mysterious manner, on board of which was the Honourable Mr. Murray, who

fell afterwards in a conflict with the pirates at Borneo. The particulars

of this gallant affair must be fresh in the recollection of my readers.

TIDES AT PORT PHILLIP.

Leaving Port Phillip,* we returned to Port Western to pick up the party

we had left there. Mr. Fitzmaurice found Cape Patterson, of which I have

before spoken, to lie fourteen miles South-West by West 1/2 West from the

eastern entrance of Port Western,** and twenty-one miles North 55 degrees

West from Cape Liptrap, the next headland to the eastward.

(*Footnote. The result of the tidal observations made at Shortland's

Bluff, gives 12 hours 20 minutes for the time of high-water on the full

and change days. The simultaneous ones made in other parts of this great

sheet of water during our stay, gave the times of high-water later as

follows:

At William Town: 1 hour 0 minutes.

Under Arthur's Seat: 1 hour 45 minutes.

At Corio Harbour: 2 hours 30 minutes.

At the entrance of Port Phillip the rise at springs is only three feet

and a half, when the stream makes in at 2 hours 0 minutes. It also

continues to run out from one to two hours after the water begins to rise

by the shore. The outward and inward streams differ considerably; the

latter being from 5 to 5 1/2 hours' duration, whereas the former is from

6 to 6 1/2 and 7. The outward stream between the heads sometimes attains

a strength of nearly 7 knots, and when opposed to a southerly gale,

causes a sea dangerous to small craft; these gales heap the water up in

all parts of the bay, particularly at William Town in the northern

corner. On such occasions there is scarcely any fall of tide perceptible

near the entrance; the outward stream is then also much weaker. In the

West Channel the flood and ebb-streams have a velocity of from 1 to 2 1/2

knots; but in the south it seldom exceeds two. Above the banks or in the

inlet leading to Corio harbour there is scarcely any stream of tide

perceptible; but through the channel over the bar at the latter the flood

runs nearly three quarters of a knot. Outside the entrance the ebb sets

between South by East and South-South-West for seven miles, when its

strength is weakened to about a knot; from thence it trends more westerly

towards the mouth of the Strait.)

CAPE PATTERSON.

Five and seven miles to the westward of Cape Patterson there are two

rivulets, near the former of which an inferior kind of coal crops out; it

occurs in beds of the carboniferous series. Between the two headlands

above mentioned the shore falls back, forming a bight six miles deep, at

the head of which is Anderson's Inlet, six miles in extent, full of mud

banks, and available for boats only. A river, called Toluncan by the

natives, empties itself into the head of it.

(*Footnote. The observations on the tides at this place make the time of

high-water at the full and change days 1 hour 10 minutes, when the rise

is 8 feet. The stream in the main channel runs upwards of 2 knots, and

off the North-East end of Grant Island it makes to the eastward about two

hours before the time of high-water; this difference is to be attributed

to the flood entering round both ends of the island.)

From Port Western we carried a line of soundings across the Strait to

Circular Head,* the greatest depth midway between being 40 fathoms. Here,

according to arrangement, we met the Vansittart. Bad weather had

prevented Mr. Forsyth from completing the work allotted the cutter. We

found the management of the Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Company in the

hands of Mr. Gibson, from whom we received great attention. The new

system of letting lands, recently adopted by this Company, was working

well; and it certainly appeared to be a very fair mode of getting their

lands occupied.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT.

(*Footnote. My intention of getting some more soundings in the western

entrance of Bass Strait was frustrated; but as I have entered into detail

respecting the eastern entrance, I am induced to devote some space to a

few directions, which may aid in averting a repetition of such terrible

catastrophes as the late wreck of the Cataraqui on the western side of

King Island. The western entrance, formed by the islands off the

north-west point of Tasmania and the projection on the Australian

continent called Cape Otway, is 108 miles wide. King Island, lying nearly

midway, occupies 35 miles of this space, and leaves to the north of it a

passage of 47 miles in width, and to the south one of 37 miles. The

latter, however, is impeded by Reid's Rocks, the Conway and Bell sunken

rocks, with Albatross Island and the Black Pyramid; the tide also sets

across it at the rate of from one to three knots, as I have already

mentioned in the first volume; consequently, the entrance between King

Island and Cape Otway is much safer, the chief danger being the Harbinger

Rocks, two granite boulders, with deep water between, one lying North 74

degrees West three miles and a half, and the other North 88 degrees West,

nearly four miles and a half from the north point of King Island, Cape

Wickham, which may be recognized by a round hill, 595 feet high, over it.

The southern Harbinger is a few feet only out of the water, and the other

scarcely awash. These, with the Navarin Rock, lying North 25 degrees

West, one mile and a half from the same cape, and the reef lying half a

mile off Cape Otway, constitute the sole dangers in this entrance.

Masters of vessels should endeavour, if possible, to make the land in the

neighbourhood of Cape Otway; but if the weather be thick they may know

they are in the fairway of the Strait when they get into sixty fathoms,

fine grey sand; in the same depth, with a rocky bottom, ships will be to

the southward, and off the west side of King Island, which, as I have

before described, is a rocky dangerous coast. There is a doubtful

position of a sunken rock, ten miles West 1/2 North of the south point,

which is low and rocky, and in latitude 40 degrees 10 minutes South,

longitude 143 degrees 58 minutes East; whilst Cape Wickham is in latitude

39 degrees 35 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 59 1/2 minutes, East;

and Cape Otway in latitude 38 degrees 51 minutes South, longitude 143

degrees 35 1/2 minutes East of Greenwich, considering Sydney, to which

these longitudes refer, to be in 151 degrees 16 minutes East.

Various opinions have been expressed as to the best position for a

lighthouse at this entrance of the Strait, some recommending Cape

Wickham; others, Cape Otway. I, however, hold to the latter, for this

simple reason, that it will avoid bringing ships in the neighbourhood of

the Harbinger Rocks and the western side of King Island. If a light were

erected on Cape Wickham, and a vessel running for it should be to the

southward of her position, she would risk sharing the fate of the

Cataraqui,* unless more caution were used than is generally the case, I

regret to say, in merchant vessels. Whereas, if the light were on Cape

Otway, a ship to the southward of her position would have the Strait open

to run through, and to the northward, would discover her error, by

falling in with the land. The lead, also, would inform the master that

his ship was near it, there being 30 fathoms ten miles from the land

thirty-five miles to the westward of Cape Otway; the trend of the coast

besides is too westerly to make it a lee shore.

(*Footnote. In consequence of a letter of mine that appeared in the

Times, the owners of the Cataraqui have communicated with me, stating

that they have reason to believe the Beagle's chart of Bass Strait was

among those with which the ship was furnished, and that with regard to

leads and lines she was well supplied.)

From the middle of the entrance between Cape Wickham and Cape Otway, in

57 fathoms, fine grey sand, and in latitude 39 degrees 13 minutes South,

longitude 143 degrees 48 minutes East, the course to the entrance of Port

Phillip, is North-East 1/2 North seventy miles; the soundings will be

found, at first, to decrease rapidly, and in the parallel of Cape Otway

the depth will be 47 fathoms, fine sand and shells. Further particulars

respecting the quality of the bottom off this part of the coast will be

found in the first volume.

A South-East 1/2 East course 176 miles, from the same position, will take

a ship to Port Dalrymple. In the first twenty-nine miles of this

distance, the soundings will have decreased to nearly 30 fathoms, and the

ship's place should be then abreast of the North-East end of King Island,

distant ten miles. The sight of this and, further on, of the Hunter

Group, which should be passed at a distance of 20 miles to the

South-West, will show if the right allowance has been made for the set of

the tides. In the courses given in this note, the tidal influence has not

been noticed; but I have above noticed the direction of the streams, and

the allowance to be made will of course depend on what stream the ship

enters or leaves the Strait with.

Again, from the same position, an east course, 136 miles, will place a

ship four miles to the south of the Curtis Isles. The soundings will be

found to decrease to 40 fathoms thirty miles to the eastward of King

Island, and will continue within a fathom or two of that depth for the

remainder of the distance.

Two hundred and four miles from the above position, on a North-East 1/4

East course, will take a ship to abreast of Cape Howe, distant twenty

miles; passing midway between Hogan and Kent Groups, distant nearly nine

miles from each, at which time twenty-eight miles will have been run on

the above course. In passing the latter group, attention should be paid

to the set of the tides; as with the flood-stream and a northerly wind

vessels may be obliged to pass on the south side of it. Cape Howe bears

from Kent Group, North 36 degrees East, 170 miles. When a ship gets into

30 fathoms she will be within 8 miles of the North-East side of these

islands; and on the opposite she will have that depth half the distance

off.

It only now remains to notice the tides in the passage north of King

Island. It is high-water on the full and change days at 1 o'clock; the

stream begins to set to the South-West three hours and a half before

high-water, running with a velocity of from 1 to 2 knots; past the

Harbinger Rocks, however, it sweeps round to the South-South-West,

sometimes at the rate of nearly two knots and a half.

Having alluded to the entrance south of King Island in an earlier part of

the work, and as it is a passage I do not recommend, I shall not here

enter into many details respecting it, further than to say that if a ship

is obliged to enter Bass Strait by that entrance, she should keep to the

southward of Reid's Rocks, passing close to the Black Pyramid, a dark

rocky lump, 240 feet high, in latitude 40 degrees 28 minutes South,

longitude 144 degrees 18 1/2 minutes East. This should be made bearing

North-East 3/4 East, which would keep ships clear of the Conway and Bell

sunken rocks, the former and outermost of which lies fifteen miles North

83 degrees West from it. The cross set of the tides should be

particularly borne in mind, and likewise their strength, which is

sometimes 3 knots. The stream to the South-West by South begins at 3 P.M.

on the full and change days, or three hours and a half before high-water.

The depth in the south entrance varies from 35 to 38 fathoms.

I shall perhaps make this note more useful by stating that January and

February are the best months for making a passage to the westward through

Bass Strait; although easterly winds blow on some rare occasions at other

times, but these are mostly gales, and generally terminate in a breeze

from the opposite quarter, having much the character of a rotatory gale,

one of which I have described in an early part of the work. The gales

that chiefly prevail in this Strait begin at North-North-West, and

gradually draw round by West to South-West, at which point they subside;

but if the wind, before it has so much southing, veer again to the

northward of west--or backs, as it is expressed--the gale will continue;

but its duration may be told by the barometer, as it is seldom fine when

it registers less than 29.95, and bad weather is certain if it falls to

29.70.

N.B. The courses recommended in this note are marked in the chart

accompanying the work.)

Our anchorage this time was on the south side of the singular natural

fortification I have before described; and whilst there we were placed in

some anxiety by being caught in a gale from the eastward. The

holding-ground, however, being very good, and a strong outset sweeping

out of the bay round the south side of the head, lessened the strain on

the cables. The sudden appearance of this breeze, and the manner in which

it was succeeded by another from the westward, afforded additional

evidence of how necessary it is for anchorages in this strait to be

sheltered from both quarters. A jetty, which has been run out by the

Company, forms available shelter at high-water for vessels of nine and

ten feet draught.

On the 20th of January, having made a valuable set of tidal* and other

observations, and arranged with Mr. Forsyth to meet him at Hobart, we

sailed in the afternoon, and next morning passed half a mile from the

south side of the Pyramid, in 35 fathoms. It is a light-coloured mass,

worthy of its name, 300 feet high. From thence we steered towards Cape

Frankland, the North-West point of Flinders Island, which we had still to

examine, decreasing the soundings gradually to 26 fathoms within two

miles and a half to the West-North-West of it. We could see nothing of

the sunken rock said to lie two miles west from the above headland; yet,

as we have not exactly gone over the spot, it has been marked in the

chart with a p.d. against it.

(*Footnote. The line of high-water at the full and change is 11 hours 40

minutes, when the rise is 9 feet.)

HUMMOCK ISLAND.

I was also anxious to obtain a distant seaward view of Hummock Island,*

which affords the best shelter for ships in westerly winds.

(*Footnote. This island, which affords a plentiful supply of fuel, is

between five and six miles long, and scarcely half a mile in width, with

a North by East trend. The anchorage lies abreast of the middle Hummock,

where the depth is six fathoms, and may be approached by passing round

either the north or south end of the island. Some low islets lie a mile

and a half off the latter, with a narrow passage between; and a reef

extends three quarters of a mile off the north point, which is in

latitude 40 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 3 degrees 27 minutes West

of Sydney, or 147 degrees 49 minutes East. It is distant three miles and

a half from the nearest point of Flinders, where is situated the

settlement of Tasmanian natives. A tide of from half to one knot sets

through between, and the flood-stream comes from the northward. The

outline of Hummock Island is so remarkable that it cannot fail of being

recognised. In thick weather the navigator may know he is approaching

this, and the other islands fronting the western side of Flinders, by

having a depth of less than thirty fathoms.)

The north-west part of Flinders Island has a bold rugged outline. From

our position off Cape Frankland, we carried a line of soundings across

the passage south of Craggy Island, passing two miles to the eastward of

it in twenty-seven fathoms. We then ran out of the strait and up to

Sydney, to leave what stores were not absolutely required during the

passage to England, for the use of the ships on the station.

RAILROADS FROM SYDNEY.

Having spoken of the feasibility of railroads in other parts of New South

Wales, I cannot leave Sydney without suggesting what appear to me to be

the most practicable directions for lines leading from that capital. As

the country between Parramatta and Sydney is very hilly, I would

recommend that part of the journey should be performed in a steamer; and

that the railroad should commence on the right bank, about seven miles

from the town. An extension of this line would lead into the

north-western interior. Towards the south, and in the direction of the

Manero district, the line ought to pass round the head of Botany Bay, and

by following some of the valleys trending southwards, might reach nearly

to Illawarra, the garden of New South Wales. In this manner, the rich

Manero corn country, and the coalfields of Illawarra, might be brought

into connection with Sydney, and a prodigious development imparted to the

whole colony.

MORETON BAY.

I regretted being obliged to leave this part of Australia without

visiting Moreton Bay, as a survey of the mouth of the Brisbane River

would have enabled the settlers of that district, now rapidly increasing,

to have sent their produce direct from thence to England; whereas, until

a chart of it is published, masters of large ships do not like to go

there. The residents are in consequence obliged to submit to the expense

of first shipping their merchandise to Sydney. The Moreton Bay district

is perhaps one of the most fertile on the continent, combining the

advantages of great partial elevation and of proximity to the equator, so

that, within a comparatively short distance, the productions of both the

tropical and the temperate zones may be found. Corn grows on the high

plains; bananas, raisins, etc., on the lowlands; in short, as in Mexico,

the traveller finds, in ascending from the sea-coast to the summit of the

hills, almost the same successive gradations of climate as in passing

from the tropics towards the poles.

FAREWELL TO SYDNEY.

Our final arrangements were soon made; and on the 18th of February, the

Beagle was turning out between the heads.* I cannot for the last time bid

adieu to a place, which had become to us as it were a second home,

without once more alluding to the reception I had experienced from its

inhabitants. To enumerate any particular instances would be invidious;

space forbids me to pay due acknowledgments to all. In general,

therefore, I must say, that every attention which kindness and

hospitality could suggest, was paid to the officers of the Beagle, and a

debt of gratitude accumulated which it will be difficult to repay.

(*Footnote. It is worthy of mention, that vessels working in against the

ebb-tide, should get close under the inner south head before making a

board across the entrance, as the stream sets round the north head a knot

an hour to the northward, but has a southerly direction from one to two

miles off.)

Fresh easterly winds in the first instance, and light northerly ones

latterly, carried us rapidly to the southward, and towards midnight of

the 21st, we crossed the parallel of 39 degrees 31 minutes South,*

steering South by West 1/2 West.

(*Footnote. In this latitude a shoal was reported to have been seen by a

vessel bound to Sydney, from Banks Strait, in 1838. The master of her

states, that he sounded on it in seven fathoms, and saw moored kelp

occupying the space of about half a mile. As this vessel's latitude, by

her run from Banks Strait, was twenty miles further south, we cannot

place much confidence in this report, in which it is stated, that when

Cape Barren bore West eight miles, they steered North-East for sixty

miles, when finding themselves, near noon, close to broken water, they

wore the vessel's head round to the southward, and sounded in seven

fathoms in kelp; the latitude by observation being 39 degrees 31 minutes

South. As it was blowing strong at the time from the North-West with a

high sea, and as there was only one cast of the lead taken, in the

confusion of wearing, it is possible they might have been deceived. The

kelp might have been adrift, and the sea, in that neighbourhood, often

breaks irregularly as if on foul ground. The position of this supposed

shoal, by the run from Banks Strait would be, latitude 39 degrees 51

minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 40 minutes East; but as this gives a

difference of twenty miles in the latitude by observation, and as the

Beagle has crossed those parallels ten times between the meridians of 148

degrees 4 minutes and 150 degrees 13 minutes, and, moreover, as the

position assigned this shoal lies so much in the track of vessels running

between Hobart and Sydney, there is every reason to doubt its existence.)

EAST COAST OF TASMANIA.

On the 23rd, we passed along the east coast of Tasmania, at the distance

of eight miles. The weather being fine and the water smooth, we had

frequent opportunities of testing the accuracy of the present chart,

which we found to be about three miles in error both in latitude and

longitude; the latter with respect to the meridian of Fort Mulgrave.*

(*Footnote. Strange to say, the position assigned this place in the

chart, 147 degrees 28 minutes East is much in error with regard to

longitude, as Fort Mulgrave is 3 degrees 52 minutes 35 seconds West of

Sydney, or 147 degrees 23 minutes 25 seconds East; this, with the error I

have already alluded to in the east coast of Tasmania, the most available

one for shipping, points out the necessity of having the survey of that

island completed.)

JOURNEY TO LAUNCESTON.

Next afternoon we entered the Derwent and anchored off Hobart. Finding

that his Excellency Sir John Franklin had just left for Launceston, I

proceeded thither to wait on him. Our stay in the Derwent depending on a

favourable change in the weather, it was necessary that we should be

always in readiness to leave, and accordingly I travelled by the fastest

conveyance, the mail-cart, a sort of gig drawn by one horse, which,

however, by means of frequent changes and good cattle, manages to average

nine miles an hour. It leaves Hobart, at half-past seven P.M., and

reaches Launceston a little before eleven the following morning. It was a

cold, bleak night; but as the road was excellent, and I was well muffled

up, with my feet in a bag, the time passed cheerily. The general topic of

conversation during the journey was about some three desperate

bushrangers,* who appeared to keep all the innkeepers in dread of a

visit. At one place we stopped at, the host came up with a rueful

countenance, and told us that it was only the previous night that he had

been stuck up, with a pistol at his head, while they took what they

wanted from his larder.

(*Footnote. The most notorious of these characters was one Michael Howe,

who became a bushranger in 1812. In 1817 he separated from his party,

taking with him a native girl, whom he shot when hotly pursued, because

he imagined she might occasion delay. He twice surrendered on condition

that his life should be spared; but soon resumed his predatory habits. In

1818 he was killed by three men who had planned his capture; having been

nearly seven years in the bush, part of the time entirely alone. He

committed several murders, and robberies innumerable. His head was

conveyed to Hobart. In his knapsack was found a sort of journal of his

dreams written with blood, and strongly indicative of the horrors of his

mind.)

The first half of the journey was over a rather hilly and gradually

rising country; the road then winds through almost one continued vale,

bounded on either side by broken ranges of mountains. The noble Ben

Lomond appears quite close on the right as you approach Launceston. I was

much pleased with the comfortable inns on this line of road, the greater

part of which is as smooth as a gravel walk.

RAILROADS IN TASMANIA.

I could not avoid, during this journey, being forcibly struck with the

great facilities afforded by the road from Hobart to Launceston for a

railway; and I have since heard and seen enough to convince me, that not

only would such an undertaking be practicable, but that it would greatly

conduce to the prosperity of Tasmania. At present, most of the

productions of the northern part of the island are necessarily, on

account of the expense of land-carriage, shipped at Launceston or Port

Dalrymple, whereas the Derwent affords such superior facilities for the

purposes of commerce, that if a means of cheap and rapid intercourse with

it existed, nearly the whole export and import traffic of the coasts

would be drawn thither. I have already observed that large vessels at

Launceston cannot discharge alongside the wharfs. Besides, on the whole

of the northern coast, with the exception of the Hunter Islands, there is

no place of safety for a ship in all winds that a stranger would like to

run into, the mouth of the Tamar being too much occupied with shoals. On

the other hand, Hobart lies on that part of the island which may be

approached with the greatest safety, being on a weather shore, whereas

the northern side is partly a lee one. In saying thus much, I do not mean

to imply that a private company, under ordinary circumstances, could

construct a line with immediate advantage to itself, though I will go so

far as to say, that in a very few years, comparatively, an ample

remunerative return might be expected. What I especially desire to insist

upon, is the fact, that a railroad traversing Tasmania from north to

south would be a great benefit to the community, would stimulate trade,

and consequently production, and would aid in restoring the prosperity

which it once enjoyed.

LABOUR MARKET.

This being granted, let us take into consideration the condition of the

labour market in that country, and observe what an opportunity now

presents itself of executing a work of prodigious magnitude at a

comparatively trifling cost. It will be seen at once that I allude to the

population of probationers, pass-holders, ticket-of-leave men, who now

compete with the free inhabitants, and cause the whole land to throng

with people in want of work, with paupers and with thieves.

The great evil at present complained of by the settlers of Tasmania, is

the superabundance of labour. In most other colonies the contrary

complaint is made; and were it not for peculiar circumstances, the great

demand in one place would soon relieve the pressure in the other. But it

must be remembered, that the glut in the Tasmanian labour market is

produced by the presence of crowds of convicts, in various stages of

restraint, all prevented from leaving the island, and forced to remain

and seek employment there; so that as soon as the demand for labour falls

off, or the supply of it becomes disproportionately large, it is the free

population that is necessarily displaced.

The effect, therefore, of the gradual pouring of a superabundance of

convict labour into this island, must naturally be, first, to check free

immigration; and secondly, to drive away those who have actually

established themselves on it as their second home, and may perhaps have

abandoned comfort in England in hopes of affluence there. So great is the

number actually leaving the place every year, that it is calculated that

in six years, at the same ratio, there will be absolutely none left.

COMMERCIAL DISTRESS.

And yet, no further back than 1841, the Legislative Council voted 60,000

pounds to encourage immigration, thus needlessly taxing the colony to aid

in producing a disastrous result, which certainly, however, no one seems

to have foreseen.

Who, indeed, four years ago, could have believed that, above all other

things, there should arrive a glut in the labour market? Such an event

was looked upon as absolutely impossible in the full tide of prosperity

that covered the island. Everything wore a smiling aspect. The fields

were heavy with harvests, the roads crowded with traffic; gay equipages

filled the streets; the settler's cottage or villa was well supplied with

comfort, and even with luxuries; crime, in a population of which the

majority were convicts or their descendants, was less in proportion than

in England; in short, for the first time, in 1840 the exports exceeded

the imports; trade was brisk, agriculture increasing, new settlers were

arriving; everything betokened progress; no one dreamed of retrogression

or decay.

In four years all this has been reversed. We now look in vain for the

signs of prosperity that before existed. In their place, we hear of

complaints loud and deep; of insolvency, of reduction in the Government

expenditure; of a falling off of trade; of many beggars, where none

before were known; of large agricultural estates allowed partially to

return to their natural wildness; of cattle and all stock sold at half

their original cost, and of every symptom of agricultural and commercial

distress. I may further add, that the funds derived from the sale of

Crown lands in Tasmania in the year 1841, amounted to 58,000 pounds; in

1844, to 2000 pounds; and in 1845, to nothing. The revenue, in the same

time, has decreased one half; and, to close the financial account, at the

end of 1844 the colony was in debt to the Treasury, 100,000 pounds.

REMARKS ON CONVICT DISCIPLINE.

Though many other causes may have co-operated in producing this change,

it seems acknowledged by most persons, that the result is chiefly

traceable to the disproportionate increase of the convict population,

acting in the manner I have already described; and this is itself

encouragement to reconsider the system of 1842. But if, as some maintain,

this plan has inflicted serious evils, in a moral point of view, both on

the free population and on the convicts themselves, there is still

greater inducement to examine whether some better mode could not be

devised.

I do not intend, however, to enter into the question of convict

discipline. It would be beside my purpose to do so; and want of space,

moreover, forbids it. But I cannot refrain from observing, that one

feature in the new plan--that of congregating criminals during one period

of their punishment in probation gangs, almost isolated from the free

settlers--seems productive of anything but good. Under the system of

assignment, whatever other objections there may have been to it, the

convict had at least an excellent chance of becoming a better man,

especially when drafted to a pastoral or agricultural district. Whereas,

now that the well-disposed and the irreclaimably bad are often brought

constantly together in the same class, it is much more difficult for them

to regain that self-command and those moral sentiments, the loss of which

brought them to their degraded position of prisoners. Having constantly

before their eyes the garb and stamp of their infamy, reformation, if not

impossible, is extremely difficult. Pass them on the highways at any

time; and, in obedience to an irresistible impulse, they will leave off

their work to look at you, and the comparison of your dress and

condition, with their own distinctive costume and forced occupation,

instead of awakening a spirit of hope and a determination to regain

freedom, induces melancholy and despair. A dogged and sullen silence soon

becomes the characteristic of these men; their features are stamped with

the worst passions of our nature; and in many cases despondency is

triumphant, and they make no proper or continued efforts to reclaim

themselves.

Even when a probation pass has been obtained, it is grievous to reflect

that, in numerous instances, except in the single quality of industry,

not only has no improvement taken place in the character of the prisoner,

but that he has become more hardened and corrupt than when he left

England. The horrible scenes of depravity he has witnessed in the

barracks whence he has emerged, must have produced their natural effect

on his mind. I cannot help thinking that this system of concentration is

extremely impolitic. We all know what a detrimental influence the

associating of men, punished for an offence comparatively trifling, with

others convicted of the most flagrant outrages upon society, exerts upon

the former. The experience of our prisons testifies to the fact. Can it

be expected, then, that the same agglomeration of bad characters in

Tasmania should be harmless? I foretell that this part of the new system

will be shortly abandoned, and that at any rate the men will be provided

with separate cabins for sleeping berths. The granting the prisoners

occasional holidays of a week, would have a great effect in whetting

their desire to finally obtain their liberty; and a change or improvement

in their apparel, in proportion to their good conduct, would also be very

beneficial.

In my opinion, however, the system of concentration is radically

defective. It supposes the existence in the breasts of criminals of a

principle of action, and a desire of improvement and of a change in their

condition sufficiently powerful to enable them to resist the temptations

to vice held out by habitual intercourse with the depraved. No doubt

there are individuals to be found, even among those who have incurred the

penalty of banishment from their native country, of firm character and

strong sympathy for virtue; but the majority must of course consist of

men almost incapable of resisting momentary impulses, of weak or

perverted understandings, of strong animal passions, naturally or from

habit averse to what is good, and prone to that which is bad. In such

cases association must inevitably be pernicious; and pardon can only be

obtained by comparative, not absolute reformation. By the dispersion of

convicts, under the assignment system or otherwise, the effects of evil

communication will be guarded against, and those of intercourse with the

virtuous and the honest substituted.

I am not of course, as I have said, prepared here even to sketch a new

plan of convict discipline; but I think that the suggestion I have made

with reference to the employment of prisoners in the construction of

railroads, the capital to be supplied by a private company, would afford

a temporary relief to the labour market, whilst it would confer a lasting

benefit on the colony. During the diversion thus created, time would be

afforded for digesting a plan of convict discipline, which should be

consistent with economy, with a due regard to the interests of the

settlers, and with the moral improvement of the prisoners.

LIGHTHOUSES IN BASS STRAIT.

I would also suggest another mode of employing the probationers. They

might be dispersed through the islands in Bass Strait, and engaged in

constructing the lighthouses which are so much wanted there. Six years

ago his Excellency Sir John Franklin drew the attention of the Government

of New South Wales to the necessity existing for these lighthouses. On

this occasion a mass of evidence was given before the Legislative Council

as to which would be the most eligible sites; but up to this period only

two have been founded, both by the Tasmanian Government, one on the

Chappell Isles, another in Banks Strait. The important ones for the

eastern and western entrances of the Strait have been neglected, although

the fullest information was obtained on the subject. Opinions concur in

representing Kent Group as the best position for a light at the eastern

entrance, where certainly one is most required, the Strait being there so

much impeded with rocks and islands. I gave my opinion to this effect

before the Legislative Council, in September, 1842. At the same time, for

the western entrance, I recommended Cape Otway in preference to the north

end of King Island, for reasons already assigned.* The melancholy wrecks

that have of late occurred in Bass Strait will, it is to be hoped, direct

immediate attention to the construction of these lighthouses, and I think

that the collateral benefits to be derived from the dispersion of the

convicts ought to be given their due weight. The expense would, in

consequence of the ample supply of labour, be small; some of the islands

afford stone in abundance; and the convicts might raise part of their

food in the vicinity of the proposed buildings. I cannot but think that

this, in the end, will prove a lucrative undertaking for Government; as

on the number of vessels that pass, light-dues of about a penny a ton

might be levied.

(*Footnote. The following is the Report of the Committee of the

Legislative Council of New South Wales, on lighthouses proposed to be

erected in Bass Strait: Your Committee have the honour to report, that

having been favoured with the attendance of Captain Stokes, of her

Majesty's ship Beagle, lately returned from a survey of Bass Strait, and

ascertained his ideas as to the best position for placing a lighthouse at

the western entrance thereof, they are induced to change their opinion as

set forth in their Report of the 1st September, 1841, and to coincide

with him in thinking that Cape Otway would be a better site for a

lighthouse than King Island, as being equally advantageous to the trade

at large, and much more so to that of Port Phillip.

It would appear, too, that no danger could accrue to vessels endeavouring

to make the former, while much mischief might arise in trying to sight

the latter, should there be any error in their reckoning; and that it is

therefore desirable to keep them as far as possible to the northward of

King Island, instead of inducing them to risk the danger of approaching

it, to ascertain their true position.

Captain Stokes perfectly coincides with the Committee, in the opinion

formerly expressed by them, that the eastern island of Kent Group, is the

best position for a light at the eastern entrance of Bass Strait; and

they beg leave respectfully to recommend to your Excellency and

honourable Council, that immediate steps may be taken for commencing so

desirable an undertaking as the erection of a lighthouse on that spot.

(Signed) J. GIBBES, Chairman. Council Chamber, 6th September, 1842.)

In another part of this work I have adverted to the desirability of

forming other convict establishments than those at present existing,

particularly on the north-west and north-east coasts; and I would

especially recommend the neighbourhood of Hanover Bay on the former, and

Halifax Bay on the latter.* By these means many hitherto untrodden lands

may speedily be adapted to the purposes of colonization, and reclaimed

from their present unprofitable state. In a country like Australia, where

the proportion of bad land predominates, it is almost necessary, in the

first instance, to force settlements by means of convict labour. A number

of buildings is always a cheering sight to a settler on his first

arrival, and gives him encouragement to exertion; whereas, if the country

wears its natural arid, desolate, uninviting appearance, dejection and

despondency ensue.

(*Footnote. We have just learned that it is the intention of Government

to form a settlement of the kind mentioned in the text on the north-east

coast; and that the province is to be called North Australia, the

southern boundary of which is to be the 26th parallel. I have already

expressed my opinion, that convicts should not be sent to Port Essington,

as the proximity of the islands would afford them facilities of escape.)

COMET.

During our stay in the Derwent, perhaps one of the most splendid comets

that has ever appeared, illuminated the southern hemisphere for several

nights. We did not see it until the evening of the 5th of March; but it

was observed on the 2nd at Launceston; and by a ship at sea, off Cape

Leeuwin, on the 27th of February. Several observations were made with it,

when the nucleus, which was of a deep red colour, somewhat resembling the

planet Mars, was visible.* The length of the tail (on the 5th) measured

forty degrees; but was afterwards ten degrees longer. Towards its centre

it showed great intensity of light, becoming visible in the crepusculum

before stars of the second magnitude. Through its more attenuated

extremity, the stars were plainly seen, the coma seeming to be much less

dense, showing the sky through the centre like a dark line.

(*Footnote. On the evening of the 5th its right ascension was found to be

about 0 hours 13 minutes 0 seconds, and declination about 13 degrees 0

minutes South. The following evening it was observed to have had a motion

of above three degrees and a half in the direction of the constellation

Orion; the right ascension being 0 hours 26 minutes 0 seconds, and the

declination 12 degrees 50 minutes South. On the following night it was

found to have had a further motion in the same direction, and with much

the same velocity. Its position, shortly before setting, was as follows:

right ascension 0 hours 41 minutes 0 seconds, declination 12 degrees 30

minutes South.)

COLONIAL CORN.

Whilst we were in the Derwent, a ship was loading with corn for England;

and I could not help regretting that, although grain from these colonies,

on account of its dry nature, is well adapted for a long voyage, the

heavy duty almost shut it out from the English market. It was impossible

not to feel, that justice as well as policy should have dictated the

admission of Australian wheat on the same terms as Canadian. The injury

inflicted by the exclusive system pursued, is, that less land is put

under cultivation, and fewer people are encouraged to go there; both the

colony and the mother country are sufferers thereby.