Leave Point Pearce.
Error in position of Cape Rulhieres.
Obtain soundings on supposed Sahul Shoal.
Discover a shoal patch on it.
Ascertain extent of bank of soundings off the Australian shore.
Strange winds in Monsoon.
See Scott's Reef.
Discover error in its position.
Make Depuch Island.
Prevalence of westerly winds near it.
Sperm whales.
Tedious passage.
Death and burial of the ship's cook.
Anecdotes of his life.
Good landfall.
Arrival at Swan River.
Find Colony improved.
Hospitality of Colonists.
Lieutenant Roe's account of his rescuing Captain Grey's party.
Burial of Mr. Smith.
Hurricane at Shark's Bay.
Observations on dry appearance of Upper Swan.
Unsuccessful cruise of Champion.
Visit Rottnest.
Fix on a hill for the site of a Lighthouse.
Aboriginal convicts.
Protectors of natives.
American whalers.
Miago.
Trees of Western Australia.
On the safety of Gage Roads.
SAIL FOR SWAN RIVER.
December 12.
By this day Mr. Bynoe thought I was sufficiently recovered to be able to
bear the motion of the ship at sea, and we accordingly sailed in the
morning for Swan River.
Standing out from Point Pearce we had a better view, than on our first
approach, of the coast to the north of it; trending in a North 11 degrees
East direction. It had a sandy appearance and was fronted with a rocky
ledge at low-water, with one or two remarkable bare sand patches, four or
five miles from the Point. We had a shoal cast of nine fathoms (eight at
low-water) ten miles west from Point Pearce. In the afternoon we stood to
the westward, in very even soundings of 15 fathoms.
On the 13th we saw the white cliffs of Cape Rulhieres, which, like Point
Pearce, we found to be four miles and a half west of its assigned
position. On the 14th and 15th we were beating to the westward with a
light and variable wind.
SAHUL SHOAL.
Our progress was slow, the monsoon being light; we therefore stood to the
northward, to find a more steady breeze, and in order, whilst making our
westing, to get some soundings over a large dotted space in the chart,
bearing the name of the Great Sahul Shoal. We desired also to ascertain
the extent of the bank of soundings extending off this part of the
Australian continent, which here approaches to within 245 miles of the
south end of Timor. The soundings varied, according to the boards we made
over it, from 30 to 60 fathoms; the bottom in the lesser depth being a
kind of coral, with bits of ironstone mixed with sand; whilst in the
greater depth, it was a green sandy mud.
On the 17th at 8 P.M., whilst standing on the north-west, near the centre
of the eastern part of the supposed Sahul Shoal, the water shoaled
suddenly to 16 fathoms, from 68, a mile to the south-east. The helm was
put down, and when in stays there were only 14 1/2. The position of this
patch is in latitude 11 degrees 8 1/2 minutes South, longitude 126
degrees 33 minutes East. Standing off South by East, in two miles the
water deepened to 72 fathoms. It was not until we had gone about ten
miles, that we again got into 60 fathoms, on the outer edge of the bank
of green sandy mud, fronting the Australian shore, and approaching within
a hundred miles of the south end of Timor. This bank appears to be
separated from the collection of coral patches, forming the Sahul Shoal
by a deep gap or gut, in which the depth generally was above 70 fathoms,
with a rocky bottom; though in part of it, in latitude 11 degrees 36
minutes South and longitude 124 degrees 53 minutes East, there was no
bottom with 207 fathoms.
Dr. Wilson, in his Voyage round the World, mentions that he crossed
several parts of the Sahul Shoal on his passage from Timor to Raffles
Bay, and never found less than 14 fathoms.
On the 20th, at noon, we had no bottom with 131 fathoms, latitude 11
degrees 34 minutes and longitude 124 degrees 52 minutes East. Our
progress now appeared to improve. Strange to say, though apparently in
the very heart of the monsoon, we were favoured with a light breeze from
the south-east; and, to show how currents are governed by the wind, I may
remark that the current experienced this day had changed its direction
from North-North-East to West.
SCOTT'S REEF.
On the 24th, several water-snakes were seen, and in the afternoon, with a
light north-west wind, we passed about six miles from the north end of
Scott's Reef,* which we placed a few miles to the westward of its
position in the chart, and of which we shall take another opportunity of
speaking.
(*Footnote. One of the discoveries of Captain Peter Heywood, R.N.)
Through God's mercy I was now so far recovered as to be able to crawl on
the poop to see this reef, but soon found that I had overrated my
strength: my back became affected; all power appeared to have deserted my
limbs; and I suffered dreadfully. Even to this day I feel the weakness in
my back, particularly in cold weather, or when I attempt to lift any
great weight suddenly.
Westerly winds, that increased as we got to the southward, brought us in
sight of Depuch Island, a level lump of land, on the evening of New
Year's Day, and at 7 P.M. we tacked in 15 fathoms, about twelve miles
North-West 1/2 North from it. We spent a couple of days beating to
westward in the neighbourhood of the coast, from which the bank appeared
to extend sixty miles, with an equal number of fathoms on its edge.
January 14, 1840.
At noon, the same prevailing westerly winds brought us within fifty miles
of the north point of Sharks Bay, bearing South-East by South. On the
same evening we saw a herd of sperm whales. From that day we had a
southerly wind, which drawing round to the east as we got to the south,
forced us away from the land, so that from there our track to Swan River
described two sides of an acute-angled triangle; the 24th placing us
somewhat further than we were on the 14th, namely 700 miles west from our
destination; but at length we got a favourable wind to take us in.
DEATH AND BURIAL OF THE COOK.
January 21.
I must refer back to this date to record that a gloom was cast over the
ship in the morning, in consequence of the rigid hand of death having
been laid on one of our men, the cook, by name Mitchell, worn out by old
age and bodily infirmities. He breathed his last at midnight, and at 10
A.M. we committed his body to the deep. There is perhaps no place where
the burial service has a more impressive effect than at sea; and in the
present instance the grave demeanour of the whole crew attested that it
was so. The day too was gloomy, and in keeping with the solemn scene;
while a fresh breeze gave the ship a steady keel. Occasionally the
beautiful prayers were interrupted by the roar of the foaming waters as
the ship plunged onwards; then swelling on the breeze and mingling with
its wailings they were wafted, we would fain hope, to that peaceful home
to which we were sending our shipmate. A chilling plunge announced his
passage into the mighty deep, leaving no trace to mark the spot on the
wave, which swept on as before.
The wandering and strange life of the deceased became the theme of
conversation during the day, and many interesting anecdotes were
recalled. On one occasion he had passed a few days in a vessel that had
been turned bottom up in a squall, but which, luckily, having a light and
shifting cargo, floated. His only companions were two negroes, who, with
the apathy of their race, spent the principal part of the time in sleep.
It was by boring a small hole through the vessel's bottom, and pushing up
a stick with a handkerchief attached, that they were enabled to attract
the attention of a passing ship, by whose people they were cut out. Old
Mitchell's propensity for fishing was very singular. Almost down to the
last, when in his hammock under the forecastle, he would have a line
passed to him whenever he heard fish playing about; and he would catch at
it as it was drawn through his fingers, until exhausted nature failing he
fell into a lethargic sleep. His situation latterly was peculiarly
pitiable. Worldly affairs and a future state were so painfully mingled,
that it was impossible to determine whether or not resignation
predominated. He evidently recoiled from the awful contemplation of
futurity, and sought refuge in the things of this life. Even whilst in
the pangs of death he could not conceive why he should be so cold, and
why his feet could not be kept up to a heat which nature, in obedience to
the dictates of infinite wisdom, was gradually resigning.
We arrived at Swan River on the 31st, under circumstances which must
forcibly illustrate to a landsman the precision with which a ship may be
navigated. We had not seen land for fifty-two days, and were steering
through a dense fog, which confined the circle of our vision to within a
very short distance round the ship. Suddenly the vapour for a moment
dispersed, and showed us, not more than a mile ahead, the shipping in
Gage's Road.
We found a vast improvement in the colony of Western Australia since our
last visit, and again experienced the greatest hospitality from the
colonists. To the assiduous attentions of my much valued friend, the
Surveyor-General, Lieutenant Roe, R.N., I in great measure ascribe my
rapid recovery. He gave me a painfully interesting account of an
excursion he had made in search of the party left behind by Captain Grey
during his exploring expedition in the neighbourhood of Sharks Bay, with
the sufferings and disastrous termination of which the public have
already been made acquainted in the vivid language of the last-mentioned
officer.
LIEUTENANT ROE'S ACCOUNT OF THE RESCUE OF CAPTAIN GREY'S PARTY.
It was on one of those soft beautiful evenings, so common in Australia,
that I received this narrative from my friend. We had strolled from his
cottage, at the western extremity of the town of Perth, and had just
emerged from the patch of woodland, concealing it from the view of the
Swan, which now lay at our feet. About a mile below, the broad shadow of
Mount Eliza, nearly extended across the river; and in the darkness thus
made, the snow-white sails of a tiny pleasure-boat flitted to and fro.
Beyond lay the beautiful lake-like reach of the river, Melville Water,
just ruffled by a breeze that came sweeping over its surface with all the
delicious coolness of the sea. The beauty of the scene did not divert me
from the events of my friend's story, serving rather to impress them the
more vividly on my mind. I remember well the animated and affecting
manner in which he delivered his narrative, and how his hard features
became lit up as he proceeded by an expression of honest pride, fully
justified by the fact that he had on that occasion been the means of
saving the lives of several of his fellow-creatures. When he found them
they were under a headland, which they had not sufficient strength left
to ascend, nor were they able to round the sea face of it. One of them,
finding all hope of proceeding further at an end, went down on his knees
and prayed to the almighty for assistance; and just as another had
bitterly remarked on the uselessness of proffering such a request, Mr.
Roe and his party, as if directed by the hand of Providence, appeared on
the ridge above them. It would be painful to describe minutely the
condition to which these poor fellows had been reduced; it will be
sufficient to state, that thirst had compelled them to resort to the most
offensive substitute for pure and wholesome water.
DEATH OF MR. FREDERIC SMITH.
One of their party, Mr. Frederick Smith, had been left behind; and so
bewildered were they in their despair, that they could give no definite
account of what had become of him. Mr. Roe immediately went in search,
and not many miles in the rear, found the poor fellow quite dead in a
bush, with his blanket half rolled round him. It appeared that he had
tried to scramble up a sandhill and had fallen back into the bush and
died--a sad and melancholy fate for one so young. He had laboured under
great disadvantages in walking, having cut his feet in very gallantly
swimming out to save one of the boats during a hurricane in Sharks Bay.
He was reduced to a perfect skeleton; having, in fact, been starved to
death. The sight drew forth a tributary tear of affection even from the
native who accompanied the party. Mr. Roe consigned poor young Smith's
remains to the earth, and setting up a piece of board to mark the spot,
smoothed down his lonely pillow, and moved with his companions in
mournful silence towards the south.
It must have been an impressive scene; the sun, as if conscious that he
was shining for the last time on the remains of the ill-fated young
explorer, seemed to linger as if unwilling to descend into the western
horizon; and his full red orb painted a number of light airy clouds that
floated through the sky in the most brilliant colours, and shed a stream
of fire over the water as it rolled with a mournful dirge-like sound on
the strand close by. The howl of a wild dog now and then fell on their
ears as they performed their melancholy task, and alone broke the
stillness that reigned around, as they retreated slowly along the beach.
Whilst on this humane excursion, Mr. Roe witnessed a wondrous gift
possessed by the natives. The one that accompanied him, perceiving
footmarks on the sand, where some of his countrymen had been, was enabled
by them to tell Mr. Roe, not only in what number they were, but THE NAME
OF EACH. This account was verified on their return to Perth, from whence
the natives had been sent during Mr. Roe's absence on the same errand.
HURRICANE IN SHARKS' BAY.
The hurricane I have mentioned, as encountered by Captain Grey in Sharks
Bay, latitude 26 degrees South, occurred on February 28th, which,
corresponding with the hurricane season of the Mauritius, leaves little
doubt that at the same time the shores of New Holland are occasionally
visited by more easterly ones, moving in nearly the same direction. The
other two instances of hurricanes occurring in the neighbourhood are
those of the Ceres, in 1839, in latitude 21 degrees South, above 300
miles North-North-West from Sharks Bay, and of the Maguashas towards the
end of February,* 1843, in latitude 18 degrees South, about 400 miles
north of the same place. Ships, therefore, passing along the North-west
coast of New Holland at the season we have mentioned, should be prepared
for bad weather. The hurricane experienced by Captain Grey began at
South-east and ended at North-west. The lull in the centre of it showed
that the focus of the storm must have passed over that locality. Captain
Grey does not enter sufficiently into detail to enable us to trace the
veering of the wind.
(*Footnote. In volume 1 will be found mention of the bad weather met with
by the Beagle in this month on the north-west coast. For further
information on this subject see Mr. Thom's interesting Inquiry into the
Nature and Course of Storms London 1845.)
An observation I made on visiting this time the upper course of the Swan,
is worth recording. Many parts were perfectly dry, more so than any I had
seen on the Victoria, and yet I was informed that last year those very
parts were running with a good stream. It seems reasonable to infer,
therefore, that in certain seasons of the year the Victoria, though dry
in some places when I visited it, is a full and rapid river.
During our stay the Colonial schooner, Champion, returned from an
unsuccessful search for the mouth of the Hutt River, discovered by
Captain Grey in the neighbourhood of Moresby's Flat-topped Range. Near
the south end of it, however, they found a bay affording good anchorage.
ROTTNEST ISLAND.
March 25.
We moved the ship to Rottnest Island, to collect a little material for
the chart, and select a hill for the site of a lighthouse. The one we
chose lies towards the south-east end of the island, bearing North 76
degrees West (true) twelve miles and a quarter from Fremantle gaol. The
Governor and Mr. Roe accompanied us to Rottnest, where we found that a
penal establishment of Aboriginal prisoners had been formed during our
absence.
ABORIGINAL CONVICTS.
No one would say that the Australian natives cannot work, if they could
just see the nice cottages of which this settlement is composed. The
Superintendent merely gives the convicts a little instruction at first,
and they follow his directions with astonishing precision. They take
great pride in showing visitors their own work. It is an interesting
though sorrowful sight to see these poor fellows--some of them deprived
of their liberty for life, perhaps for crimes into which they have been
driven by the treatment they receive from those who have deprived them
both of their land and of their liberty. Many, if not most of them, are
in some measure unconscious of guilt; and they are almost incapable of
appreciating the relation between what they have committed and the
punishment which has fallen on them. Their minds are plunged in the
darkest ignorance; or if they know anything beyond the means of
satisfying their immediate wants, it is that they have been deprived of
their rightful possessions by the men whose chains they wear. Surely this
reflection should now and then present itself to the white man who is
accustomed to treat them so harshly, and induce him to judge more
leniently of their acts, and instead of confining himself to coersive
measures for protection, make him resort to the means which are within
his reach of raising the despised and oppressed savage more nearly to a
level with himself in the scale of humanity.
The native prisoners at Rottnest collect salt from the lagoons, cut wood,
and at present almost grow sufficient grain to keep them, so that in a
short time they will be a source of profit rather than of loss to the
crown. Some of them pine away and die; others appear happy. Generally,
however, when a fresh prisoner comes among them, great discontent
prevails; they enquire eagerly about their friends and families; and what
they hear in reply recalls vividly to their minds their wild roving life,
their corrobories, the delights of their homes; and of these, too, they
are sometimes compelled to think when a blue streak of smoke stealing
over the uplands, catches their restless eye, as it wanders instinctively
forth in that direction from their island prison. They will often gaze on
these mementos of their former free life, until their eyes grow dim with
tears and their breasts swell with those feelings which, however debased
they may appear, they share in common with us all. On these occasions
they naturally turn with loathing to their food. Those who suffer most
are the oldest; for they have ties to which the younger are strangers.
The rapidity with which the young ones grow up and improve in appearance,
in consequence of their regular food and the care taken of them, is
astonishing. They are allowed to have a common kind of spear, though
without any throwing stick; and sometimes receive permission to go to the
west end of the island to endeavour to kill wallaby, which are there
rather numerous.
We were happy to find that the attention of the public, and the
Government at home, had been drawn to the wrongs and sufferings of the
Aborigines of Australia; and that a desire of preserving them from
deterioration and ultimate destruction, had been evinced. Protectors had
been sent out for the purpose of attending especially to their interests,
so that it was evident that what was wanted was not goodwill towards
them. It was easy, however, to perceive that the system was a bad one,
and to foretell its failure. The most prominent feature in the plan
adopted, was the gathering together of the natives in the neighbourhood
of settlers without previously providing them with any means of
subsistence, so that they were in a manner compelled to have recourse to
depredations.
AMERICAN WHALERS.
To show to what extent whaling is carried on in these seas by foreigners,
I may mention that during our stay at Swan River, I at one time counted
as many as thirteen American whalers at anchor. It was to be regretted
that this department of industry had been abandoned by the colonists, who
however derived considerable advantage from the barter trade they carried
on with the whale ships.
At Perth we found our old shipmate Miago, and were sorry to observe that
he was as great a savage as ever. He had got into considerable disgrace
among his fellows on account of his having performed one of these feats
of which he was so continually boasting on the North-west coast, namely,
carrying away a woman. He was hiding about, in momentary fear of being
speared by those whom he had injured.
BOTANY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
Among the information obtained this time at Swan River, was the following
table, relating to the vegetable kingdom of Western Australia.
COLUMN 1: NAME COMMONLY GIVEN BY SETTLERS.
COLUMN 2: NATIVE NAME.
COLUMN 3: GENUS.
COLUMN 4: REMARKS.
Mahogany : Jarrail* : Eucalyptus : Grows on white sandy land.
Red gum : Kardan : Eucalyptus : On loamy land.
Bluegum : Co-lort : Eucalyptus : On river banks and flooded lands, a sure
indication of vicinity of water.
White gum : Wando : Eucalyptus : On stiff clay lands, sometimes tapped
for water contained in hollow trunk.
York gum : To-art : Eucalyptus : Abundant in York--on good soil.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth
: Gnardarup : Eucalyptus : Like several stems twisted together, abondant
in interior.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth
: Wooruc : Eucalyptus : Brown glossy stem, smooth.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth
: Gnelarue : Eucalyptus : Nankeen-coloured stem.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth
: Mallat : Eucalyptus : Tall, straight, rough bark.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth
: Morrail : Eucalyptus : Nearly similar.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth
: Balwungar : Eucalyptus : Glaucus-leaved.
Honeysuckle : Mang-ghoyte : Banksia : Large flowering cones containing
honey.
Honeysuckle : Be-al-wra : Banksia : Large flowering cones containing
honey.
Black wattle : Kile-yung : Acacia : Indication of good soil--produces
gum.
Broom or Stinkwood : Cab-boor : - : Light sandy loam.
Holly : Tool-gan : Hakea : Sandy soil--produces gum.
Cabbage tree : Mote yar : Nuytsia floribella : Gum in abundance.
Beef tree or the oak : - : Casuarina.
Palm tree : Djir-jy or jirjy : Zamia media, gl. : Red fruit, nut, called
baio, ripe in March, is considered a delicacy by the natives.
Raspberry jam : Maug-art : Acacia : Sweet scented--grows on good gruund.
Raspberry jam : Minnung : Acacia : Gum very abundant.
Blackboy : Balga : Zantha hast : Gum on the spear--resin on the trunk.
York nut : Madda : - : Smells like sandalwood.
Red apple : Quonni : - : Affects salt grounds.
Swamp oak : Yeymbac : - : Name applies rather to the paper-like
bark--used to hold water, to cover houses, etc.
Rough-topped blackboy : Barro : Zantha : Resin makes a powerful cement.
Native yam : Werrang : - : Said to grow to a large size to the North.
Native potato : Tubuc : Orchis.
Native turnip : Canno.
New Zealand flax : - : Phormium tenax : This grows pretty abnndantly, I
forget the native name.
(*Footnote. The letter a is sounded broad and full as in Father.)
SAFETY OF GAGE ROADS.
The result of our soundings between Rottnest Island and the main, showed
that a bank extended out to the north-east, from the foul ground off the
Stragglers, sufficiently to check, in some measure, the vast body of
water rolling in from the north-west; and thereby adding to the safety of
Gage Roads, provided vessels anchor in the proper berth, which is in
seven or eight fathoms, on sandy mud, about a mile from the gaol, bearing
East by North. A quarter of a mile nearer the shore the bottom shoals
rapidly to four and three fathoms, on rocky ground slightly coated with
sand. It is therefore not likely a ship, well found, can drag her anchor
up a bank so steep as that inclination in the bottom forms. The wrecks
that have occurred in this anchorage may be traced to vessels not
selecting a proper berth. From their desire to be near the shore they get
into the shoal rocky ground; a breeze comes on when they are in no way
prepared, in the midst of discharging cargo; and in some cases, before a
second anchor can be let go, the ship is driven on shore. Thus, through
the want of judgment exhibited by a few individuals, has a whole
community suffered in the manner I have alluded to, when speaking of the
loss of the Orontes at Port Essington.*
(*Footnote. See volume 1.)