_DIDO_--STRAITS OF MALACCA
[Sidenote: 1843. Jan. 5.]
Continued with _Endymion_ the convoy of transports through the Straits.
That strange kind of vibration through the ship which we experienced
last year, not far from this, was felt again to-day, caused, we think,
by some powerful fish attaching itself. Our convoy consisted of
nineteen sail.
_Endymion_ proceeded to Penang, leaving me in charge. On Grey
reappearing I signalled convoy to proceed with _Endymion_.
[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]
The following day we arrived at Penang, and were saluted by the
Company’s fort. Returned the same. Commenced duties as Senior Officer
of the Straits Settlements. Glad to be where I had previously so
enjoyed myself. Was invited to take up my quarters at Government
House with the Resident, Mr. Samuel Garling, who invited the heads of
departments to meet me at dinner.
I had on board a small brass band of six performers, who were rapidly
improving. They could play string or other instruments, which meant
dancing.
[Sidenote: Jan. 15.]
Went on board to muster and read Church service. How pleasant for a
while the peace and quiet of a room on shore to oneself! From the
windows I see my _Dido_, sitting like a duck on the water, looking
beautiful.
My kind host proposed a visit to Province Wellesley. He had at his
disposal two of the Company’s small steamers, _Diana_ and _Auckland_,
with less draught of water than _Dido_, which had to anchor further
off-shore.
[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]
Our object was to visit an enterprising Frenchman, who had penetrated
miles into a dense jungle and opened up a sugar plantation.
[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
We landed from the _Diana_ at the mouth of a small creek, up which
we had to paddle some eight miles. On landing an elephant awaited
us, fitted with a double howdah; there were no end of coolies. We
were received by Monsieur et Madame Donnadieu. Although I had been at
Calcutta, this was my first mount on an elephant.
From the landing-place, with the exception of the twelve-foot-wide
road, was a jungle, where the relations of the Bengal tiger might be
concealed within a foot of where we were. We found our host’s bungalow
prettily situated on rising ground, cleared all round for a quarter
of a mile of the dense jungle, and protected by a substantial iron
fence. The inside of the building was a perfect bijou; you could
fancy yourself within hail of Paris. Our dinner, too, was perfection,
including a Malay curry. We were charmed with our hostess. I regretted
my deficiency in French, although Madame Donnadieu tried to make me
believe she understood what I said, and we were getting on, when a
guest asked her to sing.
[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
Following morning, on being consulted, I voted for a mount on the
elephant, whose stable was the open jungle, a heavy log chained to one
of his forefeet.
A call brought him home. The howdah was filled--sorry to say without
our fair hostess, who had domestic arrangements to supervise. It was
not until deep in the jungle that I could form an idea of the sagacity
of our mount. He was partly guided by the mahout, but when we came to
a thick part of the jungle, where branches could interfere with the
howdah, the elephant would stop and break off everything that could
interfere with his passengers.
We had to cross deep nullahs; if there was the trunk of a tree in the
way, he would feel with the upper side of his trunk, and so ascertain
what it would bear, and act accordingly. I observed, too, when we
neared a tuft of long grass, he would, without stopping, draw it up
with his trunk and hold on until within reach of the stump of a tree,
then knock the earth off the roots, and so enjoy his meal without
slacking his pace.
We were several times close to wild beasts that startled us with their
discordant roars, but we could not see them, so did not discharge our
guns. The mahout pronounced them rhinoceros and tigers. Parrots and
monkeys chattered through the upper branches of the trees. Pea-fowl
preferred running. We took our tiffin with us.
[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]
After a rest we took leave of our kind hosts.
[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]
Weighed from Province Wellesley, and in the evening came to between
Nicobar Islands. The natives were much frightened. A chief, however,
came off in the early morning and got drunk, which encouraged his
people, who commenced to trade in birds’ nests, tortoiseshell, cocoa-
and betel-nuts.
Having seen enough, we sailed for next island, Nancowry, which has a
harbour and some pigeons, affording sport.
[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
My cabin carpenter, Wilson, who was landed to cut some large hollow
bamboo, fancied he saw a tiger--extraordinary stretch of imagination.
He was a good little man, but I got no bamboo!
[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]
Arrived at Penang. Landed at Captain’s house just after midnight. Took
Tottenham under my care, he looking invalidy.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Up at daylight with Granville and Tottenham to the hill. Visited Mrs.
Lewis. Delightful change of scenery and climate. Continued my taste
for ornithology and conchology. Small birds, when we were quiet, were
knocked over by pellets from a blow-pipe.
To dinner with officers of 24th Madras Native Infantry. Received with
usual kindness of the Far East. Had to make a small speech. Home early.
[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]
Another visit to the hill to Sir William Norris. At daylight Tottenham,
Partridge, Maidman, and I went up. A long scramble through jungle. Good
“Penang Lawyers” scarce.
[Sidenote: Feb. 9.]
Knocked down by Lady Norris’s pony at Waterfall, and nearly suspended
over the perpendicular edge of the hill.
[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]
Passed the night on the top of a tree to watch for tiger and deer. Fell
asleep and saw nothing! No mosquitoes, though! Tried the jungle on
opposite side of the river, convicts beating; drew it blank. Started
for Penang. All night in pinnace.
[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]
Weighed.
[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 3.]
Sunset, anchored in Singapore Roads.
[Illustration: _Map of Malacca Straits and Singapore._]
Sir Stamford Raffles landed here on January 29, 1819. Near the present
esplanade he hoisted the Union Jack next day, and concluded a
preliminary arrangement with the Sultan of Johore and the Tumongong of
Singapore; and on February 5, 1819, a definite treaty was signed by
Raffles and the two chiefs named, by which, in return for an annual
payment of 5000 dollars to the former, and 3000 dollars to the latter,
those princes ceded the settlement of Singapore to the English, and
pledged themselves to grant “no treaty” or settlement to any other
power, European or American.
[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
On board to muster. Read prayers. _Vixen_ arrived, not two months from
England.
[Sidenote: Mar. 6.]
I had now been some days making myself acquainted with the persons
chiefly concerned in this most interesting colony. The greatest
admitted drawback was the want of protection to trade from piracy. I
felt there was a grand field open, if I could only feel sure that I
should be allowed to remain long enough. There was a large community of
interested merchants, as well as Government officials, but we were not
without powerful natives in our midst, whose kindly feeling for piracy
was well known.
Dined with the military detachment. Hospitable, kind, and good fellows.
Saw a splendid comet with a very long tail, looking too near to be
pleasant.
[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
A most atrocious case of piracy committed within sight of the anchorage
by two Malay boats on a Cochin China junk.
Preparing boats for a cruise. Splendid comet again; Chinamen frightened.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
Got under way. Left my steward, Ashford, to take care of sick. Joined
gunroom mess. Comet again visible until nine; tail very luminous,
extending 30 degrees.
[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
1 P.M.--Came to off Pulo Sabu. Took possession of fifteen piratical
boats, but was unable to catch any of the crew on account of the
density of the jungle.
8 P.M.--boats returned.
[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
Landed an armed party to assist boats’ crews in finding remainder of
the pirates, the two captured having bolted into the jungle at Pulo
Tinghi. No find, though. Weighed in the evening and stood to the
southward under easy sail.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
Anchored at Singapore. In the absence, and by permission, of
Bonham--now Governor of the Straits Settlements--took possession of the
Hill, a charming residence with flagstaff and native guard established.
I noticed that the signalmen--smart fellows from Bengal--were branded
on the forehead with the interesting little word “Murder,” also with
a Hindustanee word of same meaning. As senior naval officer, had
much more to do than picnics and tiger-hunting. Had, too, the use of
Bonham’s stables, with a good deal of fat to take down.
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
Exchanged visits with heads of departments; one of the most important
was the Resident Councillor, Mr. Thomas Church. But no visits were
considered valid until you had exchanged dinners. An attorney of note
was Mr. William Napier; he had a brother, the Rector of Holkham, which
brought us together. A charming old salt was Captain William Scott.
The mercantile community was much as I had met all over India--most
hospitable and agreeable. Shaw, Whitehead, and Co. were the Navy
agents. Soon found that my most important duty was the suppression
of piracy. Scarcely a day passed without the landing of wounded for
hospital treatment.
[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
Dined with Napier, where I met for the first time Mr., afterwards
Rajah, Brooke. I was initiated into the mysteries, depths, and horrors
of pirates in the ways of the Malay Peninsula, by these two men who had
studied the question.
[Illustration: _Rajah Brooke._]
[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
A royal tiger that had devoured several convicts had been viewed on the
outskirts of the town. I joined expedition in search, as did many older
and experienced men, but without success.
Recorder Sir William Norris arrived from Penang. Heard of death of the
famous China General, “Elepo.” “S’pose he catchee too muchee shame
face.”
[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
Another Chinaman killed by tiger close to the spot we had been over
half an hour previously.
[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
Rumours of another China war, which rather upsets proposed joint
arrangement with Rajah Brooke of an attack on pirates in their
strongholds in the interior of Borneo.
Sale of Bonham’s effects on the Mount, which looks like a better
appointment. Got two old paintings.
[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]
Preparing boats for a regatta got up by W. H. Read, an enterprising
young merchant (who subsequently left his mark in Singapore). Entered
ship’s boats, pinnace winning 45 dollars under name of _Victoria_.
Committee on board _Dido_. I was voted umpire. Band increased and
improved. Regatta afforded great amusement. Tiffin on board _Diana_
steamer. “Didos” invited. Dined with Napier.
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
Up early for another unsuccessful attempt to shoot tiger; heard the
brute unpleasantly near, without seeing him.
Visited Elliot at the Observatory, also Balastier, United States
Consul, and wife; she has a nice collection of shells; made some
exchanges.
[Sidenote: April 2.]
Fresh acts of piracy and murder. Sent _Diana_, steamer, _Diamond_,
gunboat, and _Dido’s_ pinnace to cruise.
[Sidenote: April 3.]
[Sidenote: April 5.]
Up early to wild-hog party at Alligator Island: the civil and military
residents giving an excellent picnic to the “Didos,” commencing by a
breakfast on board the steamer _Victoria_, while sportsmen proceeded to
Alligator Island, noted for its wild-boar. We had convicts as beaters.
Brooke and Read were of the cheery party, which lasted until the
following morning. I bagged two boars.
[Sidenote: April 6.]
It was now time to arrange for more serious business: that of the
suppression of piracy, which had long been the curse of all legitimate
trade and was secretly encouraged by wealthy natives in our midst.
After discussion with Brooke, we agreed the only way to strike at the
root of the evil would be to destroy the piratical strongholds in the
interior of Borneo, and not to wait until the fleets of light draught
of water were formed. Some of the war prahus were propelled by as many
as 200 paddles, in addition to light lateen sails. Their hulls were
composed of timbers fastened together by _rôtans_, and the whole
caulked with the fibre of the cocoanut. The pirates could, if pressed,
run into shoal water, cut their boats adrift, and disappear in the, to
us, impregnable jungle.
[Sidenote: April 13.]
_Britomart_, brig, 10, Commander Owen Stanley, arrived, with directions
to sell his surveying vessel. I was too glad to have my friend of many
years to stay with me at Government House, and so avail myself of his
fertile brains.
Rajah Brooke, “Billy” Napier, Montgomery, and Stevenson to dine.
_Anonymous_ clipper from Bombay, bringing owner’s letters only. Beast!
[Sidenote: April 15.]
Took Major Sinclair to show him the inside of my _Dido_.
[Sidenote: April 17.]
Cricket-match between Singaporeans and “Didos.” Lieutenant Stephen
Colby, of 98th, to dine, he having sold out.
[Sidenote: April 20.]
Band on shore of an evening, they having improved and much in demand.
[Sidenote: April 24.]
_Apollo_, with Grey Skipwith on board, also _Belleisle_, arrived with
letters from China.
[Sidenote: April 26.]
Had a cheery child’s party on the hill, Mrs. Whitehead kindly managing
for me.
A kind letter from my father.
[Sidenote: April 27.]
Grey Skipwith staying with me again, but only for a short time, as
_Apollo_ sailed for home.
_Belleisle_ on shore, as usual; luckily on a rising tide.