CHAPTER XXV

_DIDO_--CHINA

[Sidenote: 1842. July 6.]

The force collected at Woosung to proceed up the Yang-tse-Kiang

consisted of seventy-three sail, men-of-war and transport, three

of them being line-of-battle ships. The whole, anchored in single

line--with room to swing, required space. It was a beautiful sight. On

a signal from Flag for fleet to weigh, in a few minutes you would see

a white cloud, three miles in extent, moving up the river. While the

seamen went aloft to loose sails, troops manned sheets and halyards.

Wind heading, the reverse took place, and a forest of masts succeeded

the white cloud.

The half-dozen small steamers were constantly on the move surveying.

The smaller craft were detached in various directions to collect cattle

and other food for the use of the fleet.

[Sidenote: July 12.]

Weighed with my division at 4 A.M. with a fair wind, the whole fleet

making considerable progress. The land getting hilly, and assuming a

much more interesting appearance.

Started in gig for the flagship. Slashing tide: missed _Cornwallis_,

and got on board _Belleisle_. Took every opportunity of seeing my old

friends of 98th, with its new Colonel, Colin Campbell. Regiments on

the Indian station were allowed a double set of officers, so I had many

fresh friends to make. Surveying steamers sent ahead reported being

fired upon from Golden Island.

It would take a thick volume to describe all the incidents that

occurred during the progress of the force up the river. It was slow,

and communication was kept up by signals and boats. The fleet brought

up off Chiang Kiang-Fu on the 19th, and disembarkation commenced.

Gran. Loch managed to ford the ditch, some 50 feet wide, close to the

West Gate, which was afterwards blown in by bags of powder attached.

The ends of works form a hexagon shape.

Inside, where John Chinaman had felt himself so secure with his walls

and ditch, I saw them the next morning in small heaps, dead, with

blackened faces, and cards in their hands. I could not make out whether

the game was whist or baccarat.

On going through the town, there were piles of dead Chinese soldiers

at the corners of the streets. While contemplating one of these heaps,

a body sprang up and performed a somersault: it was a Chinese soldier

whose fuse had reached his magazine. It takes three of them to serve

a musket. One carries a crutch, another loads, a third takes aim and

fires.

The place was full of food, which no one knew better where to find than

the thieves. When boats landed from men-of-war to pick up wounded, the

Chinamen were made to deposit their loads of loot in the boats.

Nanking was next to be reached, and _Dido_ was sent in advance to

prevent communication with the north side of the river. Our ships were

now swarming with rats, and crews getting unhealthy.

In spite of the fall of the great city of Chiang Kiang-Fu, the chiefs

were determined not to stop until they had invested Nanking.

[Sidenote: July 27.]

Started with Hall in _Nemesis_ on a foraging expedition. The best

plan was to catch a fat Chinaman, generally the chief of a village.

The people always pleaded poverty as an excuse. Having dropped on to

a chief such as I have described, I gave him until 4 P.M. to supply

twenty-five bullocks or have his tail cut off, which had the desired

effect.

_Dido’s_ boats were now away at night searching junks lying up creeks,

to see they did not contain soldiers. Coming across a lot which

appeared likely to be used for the conveyance of troops and stores,

tried to examine one. Seeing a rope over the side, I climbed up near

to the entrance-port, when the rope was let go from inside, and I fell

across the gunwale of my boat.

I was placed at the bottom, suffering great pain, and taken back to

the _Dido_, three miles off. When alongside, believing my back to be

broken, requested to be allowed to die where I was. A cot, however, was

lowered, into which I was lifted carefully, and so hoisted on board.

The gunroom skylight was removed and the cot laid on the mess-table.

The surgeons, Donoghoe and Simpson, on close examination, found nothing

but one small spot on a joint of the backbone, and under the influence

of an opiate I was conveyed to my cabin.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

Mandarins came from Nanking with flags of truce and “chops” for Admiral

and Plenipotentiary. Our chiefs had, however, decided not to hold their

hands until they had a footing in Nanking.

[Sidenote: July 30.]

Ordered to proceed, the Admiral placing the smaller vessels under my

command; among them my old friend _Childers_--but, oh! so altered.

[Sidenote: August 3.]

Fleet coming up. Admiral was towed into a berth off Nanking.

_Cornwallis_ the first ship that had reached that famous city.

[Sidenote: August 4.]

Fleet closing up. Visited Plenipotentiary, also General Sir Hugh Gough;

and _Belleisle_, with Colonel Colin Campbell and 98th Regiment.

[Sidenote: August 5.]

Fleet still closing. _Dido_ again ordered ahead to stop communication

from north side. Having a heavy sick-list, took possession of two roomy

junks, in one of which I embarked clothes, mess-traps, etc.

[Sidenote: August 8.]

Off Nanking. Found artificers from ships cutting down huge trees to

get a clearer view of the walls of the city. Looting was strictly

forbidden. On board _Cornwallis_ was Sir Hugh Gough, when Trowbridge,

of the _Clio_, came alongside.

The General, observing boxes in the boat, asked: “Captain Trowbridge,

is that loot?” Trowbridge replied he thought it was, as he had just

bought it from a soldier! Bits of chaff were not taken notice of. Dined

with Admiral.

[Sidenote: August 9.]

Trowbridge, Loch, and Skipwith dined with me on board junk.

[Sidenote: Aug. 11.]

Landed with Admiral at daylight to search the most practicable place

for storming with boats. There will be some bloody noses on Saturday.

In spite of looting being forbidden, we met the boat’s crew of a

transport carrying heavy cases. The Admiral wore a costume suitable to

the climate--a white jacket and straw hat. On Sir William asking, “What

have you got there?” the reply was, “Sugar. And, if you look sharp,”

said the gentleman in charge, “you may get some too; there _is_ some

brown left.” In reply he got, “You will take those cases on board the

_Cornwallis_, and say the Admiral sent you.” They obeyed, the Admiral’s

coxswain attending.

Next day I landed early with Sir Hugh Gough, the Admiral, and

Plenipotentiary, to survey walls in another direction.

[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]

No fight Pidgin yet. Great appearance of peace being concluded.

Kellett, of surveying vessel _Starling_, to breakfast. Shifted junk

higher up the river; James Fitzjames and Skipwith to dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]

Every appearance of peace being made. Proper day to make it on--quite a

day of rest. _Tête-à-tête_ dinner with Armytage.

[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]

Too much rain. Visited Admiral, peacefully inclined.

[Sidenote: Aug. 16.]

Up early and looted some plank from villages up the river, about two

miles in extent, built entirely on rafts, which were probably built for

the conveyance of soldiers.

[Sidenote: Aug. 17]

Bullock junk up from _Dido_. Bad accounts of the sick. Young Robinson

dead. Forty-eight on sick-list. Poor fellows!

Captain Bouchier, Grey, and self examined and passed Hickley; smart

young fellow.

[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]

Dined with Admiral, who kindly invited me to remain to meet the

Mandarins who were to come the following day. Sent for my cot.

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

A large assemblage of chiefs. Contrast between Mandarins and our

chiefs. Was thanked by General and Admiral for the effectual way in

which, some miles ahead of the fleet, reinforcements for Nanking

garrison had been prevented crossing the river from the north side.

[Sidenote: Yang-tse-Kiang.]

While in the river was laid up for some days with a sharp attack of

malarial fever.

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

Peace proclaimed.

[Sidenote: Aug. 31.]

Ratification of the treaty approved by the Emperor himself. Glad of the

chance of getting out of this river; the water is low and beginning to

smell.

[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]

Lieutenant Horton from _Endymion_ joined, having exchanged with Eden.

[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]

Sent invalids for survey, to fleet in junk. In a heavy squall hospital

junk parted cables, and is now well in the rushes.

[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]

No return of fever. _Medusa_, steamer, coming down with invalids to go

home by _Calliope_.

[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]

Sick-list heavy; but few men fit for duty. Like new First Lieutenant

much. _Harlequin_ coming up. My poor steward very ill; ditto cook.

Rice in a cot in my cabin; much better to-day though. Went on board

_Cornwallis_; put up with Admiral. Rain all day. Did plenty of ship’s

business.

[Sidenote: Sept. 12.]

Up early, and went to breakfast with my old friend and chum, Watson.

_Dido_ has eighty on sick-list, but improving.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

_Childers_ arrived to relieve us. Received on board invalids for

_Calliope_. Got under way, and anchored near _Endymion_.

[Sidenote: Sept. 15.]

In working down with a fresh breeze on port tack, an eddy tide caught

my _Dido_ on the weather bow, stronger than the effect of the lee helm,

and the figure-head was well in a pâdi-field before the backed sails

could have effect.

What was to be done? We had ninety-seven on the sick-list. Made signal

to _Endymion_, working down near the opposite shore. Of course, she was

“charged with despatches.” I was not sorry at the reply. When I get

into a scrape I like to get out of it without help. It reminds me of

the old couplet:

When Dido found Æneas did not come,

She wept in silence, and was Dido-dum.

We had nothing else to do after sails were furled but to lay out stream

and kedge anchors, seize two of the largest junks, chuck what they

might have overboard, and commence lightening. With my sickly crew it

was heavy work.

The weather was fine, but it was not until the following afternoon, and

the last gun out, that the cables laid out began to slacken.

The same evening we were dropping quietly down with the current,

looking beautiful as ever, and I much pleased with my new First

Lieutenant.

[Sidenote: Woosung, Sept. 24.]

Our stick in pâdi-fields did not improve my health nor the Master’s

nerves. We drifted quietly down in company with _Belleisle_ into

Woosung Roads. Tides ran strong and irregular; influenced by winds and

heavy rains.

98th Regiment still sickly. We found _North Star_, 28, with her stout

and good-tempered captain, Sir Everard Home. I was more pleased still

to find my young friend, Henry Seymour, in command of one of Symonds’

beautiful brigs, the _Wanderer_, 16.

We had not met since he left me in the _Childers_, Mediterranean. His

larder better furnished, and, far from well myself, I was glad to have

a quiet and early dinner with him. A storm brewing, got away early, and

none too soon. Home dined with the hospitable 98th.

It was blowing and raining, with a slashing ebb-tide, when at 9 P.M.

there were loud calls ahead for a rope. Home had missed his _North

Star_, and would have drifted past us to, nobody knows where.

But my “Didos” were equal to the occasion. _North Star’s_ long painter

was secured to us, but the bowman could not haul the boat up to the

gangway.

When Home rushed forward to assist, his extra weight caused the boat

to dip and capsize. Our men were on the alert; no lives were lost, but

the Captain would not allow himself to be hauled on board until he was

assured that every man of his crew was safe.

We got him down to my cabin, and rigged him out in seaman’s blue

flannel frock and trousers, and a stiffish glass of grog before he laid

himself on a sofa to rest. He begged to be called at slack-water, that

he might return on board his own ship.

I gave directions accordingly.

Mr. D’Aeth, of an old Kentish family, was officer of the watch, and at

midnight came down to tell Sir Everard it was slack-water, but raining

hard.

It was some time before the gallant captain could be awoke, and longer

still before he could understand where he was. I was awake, laughing at

the conversation.

At last Sir Everard called out, “Where am I? Who are you? What’s your

name?”

He got an answer:

“My name is D’Aeth. It is twelve o’clock--slack-water. You are on board

_Dido_, in the Captain’s cabin.”

Home then roared out:

“Captain Keppel, they are playing tricks. A man comes dripping, as if

from the sea, with a lanthorn in his hand, saying his name is Death.”

It was some minutes before I could persuade my friend that it was

blowing and pouring with rain, and that he had better go to sleep

again.

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