CORRESPONDENCE.
_Art. 1. Letter, Wilkinson's Instructions to Pike._[VI-1]
ST. LOUIS, June 24th, 1806.
SIR: You are to proceed without delay to the cantonment on the
Missouri [at Belle Fontaine], where you are to embark the late Osage
captives and the deputation recently returned from Washington, with
their presents and baggage, and are to transport the whole up the
Missouri and Osage rivers to the town of the Grand Osage.
The safe delivery of this charge at the point of destination
constitutes the primary object of your expedition; therefore you are
to move with such caution as may prevent surprise from any hostile
band, and are to repel with your utmost force any outrage which may be
attempted.
Having safely deposited your passengers and their property, you are to
turn your attention to the accomplishment of a permanent peace between
the Kanses and Osage nations; for which purpose you must effect a
meeting between the head chiefs of those nations, and are to employ
such arguments, deduced from their own obvious interests, as well as
the inclinations, desires, and commands of the president of the
United States, as may facilitate your purpose and accomplish the end.
A third object of considerable magnitude will then claim your
consideration. It is to effect an interview and establish a good
understanding with the Yanctons, Tetaus, or Camanches.
For this purpose you must interest White Hair, of the Grand Osage,
with whom and a suitable deputation you will visit the Panis republic,
where you may find interpreters, and inform yourself of the most
feasible plan by which to bring the Camanches to a conference. Should
you succeed in this attempt--and no pains must be spared to effect
it--you will endeavor to make peace between that distant powerful
nation and the nations which inhabit the country between us and them,
particularly the Osage; finally, you will endeavor to induce eight or
ten of their distinguished chiefs to make a visit to the seat of
government next September, and you may attach to this deputation four
or five Panis and the same number of Kanses chiefs.
As your interview with the Camanches will probably lead you to the
head branches of the Arkansaw and Red rivers, you may find yourself
approximated to the settlements of New Mexico. There it will be
necessary you should move with great circumspection, to keep clear of
any hunting or reconnoitering parties from that province, and to
prevent alarm or offense; because the affairs of Spain and the United
States appear to be on the point of amicable adjustment, and moreover
it is the desire of the president to cultivate the friendship and
harmonious intercourse of all the nations of the earth, particularly
our near neighbors the Spaniards.[VI-2]
In the course of your tour, you are to remark particularly upon the
geographical structure, the natural history, and population of the
country through which you may pass, taking particular care to collect
and preserve specimens of everything curious in the mineral or
botanical worlds, which can be preserved and are portable. Let your
courses be regulated by your compass, and your distances by your
watch, to be noted in a field-book; and I would advise you, when
circumstances permit, to protract and lay down in a separate book the
march of the day at every evening's halt.
The instruments which I have furnished you will enable you to
ascertain the variation of the magnetic needle and the latitude with
exactitude; and at every remarkable point I wish you to employ your
telescope in observing the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, having
previously regulated and adjusted your watch by your quadrant, taking
care to note with great nicety the periods of immersions and emersions
of the eclipsed satellites. These observations may enable us, after
your return, by application to the appropriate tables, which I cannot
now furnish you, to ascertain the longitude.
It is an object of much interest with the executive to ascertain the
direction, extent, and navigation of the Arkansaw and Red rivers; as
far, therefore, as may be compatible with these instructions and
practicable to the means you may command, I wish you to carry your
views to those subjects; and should circumstances conspire to favor
the enterprise, that you may detach a party with a few Osage to
descend the Arkansaw under the orders of Lieutenant Wilkinson, or
Sergeant Ballinger, properly instructed and equipped to take the
courses and distances, to remark on the soil, timber, etc., and to
note the tributary streams. This party will, after reaching our post
on the Arkansaw, descend to Fort Adams and there await further orders;
and you yourself may descend the Red river, accompanied by a party of
the most respectable Camanches, to the post of Nachitoches, and there
receive further orders.
To disburse your necessary expenses and to aid your negotiations, you
are herewith furnished six hundred dollars' worth of goods, for the
appropriation of which you are to render a strict account, vouched by
documents to be attested by one of your party.
Wishing you a safe and successful expedition,
I am, Sir,
With much respect and esteem,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] JAMES WILKINSON.
LIEUTENANT Z. M. PIKE.
_Art. 2. Letter, Wilkinson's Additional Instructions to Pike._
CANTONMENT [BELLE FONTAINE], MISSOURI,
July 12th, 1806.
SIR:
The health of the Osages being now generally restored, and all hopes
of the speedy recovery of their prisoners from the hands of the
Potowatomies being at an end, they have become desirous to commence
their journey for their villages; you are therefore to proceed
to-morrow.
In addition to the instructions given you on the 24th ultimo, I must
request you to have the talks under cover delivered to White Hair and
Grand Peste, the chief of the Osage band which is settled on the
waters of the Arkansaw, together with the belts which accompany them.
You will also receive herewith a small belt for the Panis and a large
one for the Tetaus or Camanches.
Should you find it necessary, you are to give orders to Maugraine, the
resident interpreter at the Grand Osage, to attend you.
I beg you to take measures for the security and safe return of your
boats from the Grand Osage to this place.
Dr. Robinson will accompany you as a volunteer. He will be furnished
medicines, and for the accommodations which you give him he is bound
to attend your sick.
Should you discover any unlicensed traders in your route, or any
person from this territory, or from the United States, without a
proper license or passport, you are to arrest such person or persons
and dispose of their property as the law directs.
My confidence in your caution and discretion has prevented my urging
you to be vigilant in guarding against the strategy and treachery of
the Indians; holding yourself above alarm or surprise, the composition
of your party, though it be small, will secure to you the respect of a
host of untutored savages.
You are to communicate, from the Grand Osage and from every other
practicable point, directly to the secretary of war, transmitting your
letters to this place under cover, to the commanding officer, or by
any more convenient route.
I wish you health and a successful and honorable enterprise, and am,
Yours with friendship,
[Signed] JAMES WILKINSON.
LIEUTENANT Z. M. PIKE.
_Art. 3.[VI-3] Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 3, pp. 32, 33.)-
ST. CHARLES, July 17th, 1806.
DEAR SIR:
We arrived here last evening all well, except some of the soldiers
from fatigue, as in the present state of the water we are obliged to
row altogether.
We were disappointed in obtaining any information from St. Louis, or
baggage for our Panis. I do not know how it will be digested by them.
We likewise were disappointed in receiving a line from you, as we had
here expected, and in the hopes of which I shall yet detain until
twelve o'clock and then take my departure. Our Osage conduct
themselves pretty well, and are very obedient to orders; at first they
had an idea a little too free relative to other people's property, but
at present stand corrected.
I understood from you that they were equipped by Mr. Tillier with
everything necessary for their voyage to their towns; consequently,
although they have been applying to me for a variety of articles, none
of which have they been gratified with, but powder and ball, which is
necessary for their own defense.
The general will pardon this scrawl; and should he send an express
after us, please to let Mrs. Pike know of the opportunity.
I am, dear Sir,
With high respect,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
GENERAL WILKINSON.
_Art. 4. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 4, p. 33.)-
ST. CHARLES, July 19th [_i. e._, 18th], 1806.
In the morning.
DEAR GENERAL:
Inclosed you have one of the articles subscribed by Mr. [George]
Henry, mentioned in my note of yesterday.[VI-4] I hope the general may
approve of the contents.
Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson marched with one soldier this
morning, and the boats have proceeded under the conduct of [Sergeant]
Ballenger; I shall overtake them in an hour or two.
Numerous reports have been made to the Indians [we have with us],
calculated to impress them with an idea that there is a small army of
their enemies waiting to receive us at the entrance of the Grand
Osage. But I have partly succeeded in scouting the idea from their
minds.
No news of Chouteau, nor Panis' trunks.
I am, dear General,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
GENERAL WILKINSON.
_Art. 5. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 5, pp. 33-35.)-
VILLAGE DE CHARETTE, July 22d, 1806.
DEAR GENERAL:
I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your two obliging
favors of the 18th and 19th inst. The particular contents of each
shall be punctually attended to.
I assure you, Sir, that I am extremely pleased with the idea that
Messrs. [Blank] and [Blank] will meet with their merited reward, and I
on my part am determined to show them that it is not their sinister
movements that can derange the objects of our voyage; the greatest
embarrassment they have yet occasioned me has been by the detention of
the Panis' baggage, who have been much mortified on the occasion. But
I question much if, under similar impressions and circumstances, many
white men would have borne their loss with more philosophy than our
young savages.
I conceive that I cannot dispose of one of my guns better than to give
it to Frank, whose fusee was left at Chouteau's; also, each of them a
soldier's coat; this is all the remuneration I will pretend to make
them, and I hope it may bring them to a good humor.
You will probably be surprised at the slow progress we have made, but
are already informed of the cause of our detention at St. Charles.
Since then we have been detained two days on account of the rain; and
although we were able to prevent the water from entering immediately
on the top of the boat where covered, yet the quantity which she made
at both ends occasioned so much dampness under the loading as to
injure both my own corn and that of the Indians, with other small
articles which they had at various times taken from under the loading
and not returned to their proper places; but they appear satisfied
that we have paid all possible attention to prevent injury to their
baggage--as much as, and indeed more than, to our own.
In consequence of the above, and with a design to write you, I halted
here to-day, which I hope we shall usefully employ in drying our
baggage, cleaning our arms, and putting ourselves in a posture of
defense. Lieutenant Wilkinson has experienced no inconvenience from
his march by land with the Indians; and the event has proved the
necessity of some officer accompanying them, as he informs me. He
found it necessary to purchase some beeves for their consumption on
the route, for which he drew on the superintendent of Indian affairs,
and will write to you more particularly on the subject. They were
absent from the boat four days; and had he not been with them, they
would have supplied themselves by marauding, to the great offense of
our good citizens.
I am informed that a party of 40 Sacs were at Boon's Lick, above the
Osage river, a few days since; but I by no means conceive they were on
the route to intercept us, as the people pretend at this place.
Three days since one of my men [Kennerman] complained of
indisposition, and went on shore to march; he has never joined the
party, and from various reasons I conceive has deserted. I have
therefore inclosed an advertisement which, if the general will please
to cause to be posted at St. Louis, Kaskaskias, and Lusk's Ferry on
the Ohio, I conceive he will be caught. I have written to Captain
Daniel Bissell[VI-5] on the occasion; but hope the general will
enforce my request to that gentleman, as to his [Kennerman's] being
brought to trial. I was much mortified at the event, not only on
account of the loss of the man, but that my peculiar situation
prevented me from pursuing him and making him an example.
With respect to the Tetaus, the general may rest assured, I shall use
every precaution previous to trusting them; but as to the mode of
conduct to be pursued towards the Spaniards, I feel more at a loss,
as my instructions lead me into the country of the Tetaus, part of
which is no doubt claimed by Spain, although the boundaries between
Louisiana and New Mexico, have never yet been defined, in consequence
of which, should I encounter a party from the villages near Santa Fe,
I have thought it would be good policy to give them to understand,
that we were about to join our troops near Natchitoches, but had been
uncertain about the head waters of the rivers over which we passed;
but, that now, if the commandant approved of it, we would pay him a
visit of politeness, either by deputation, or the whole party, but if
he refused, signify our intention of pursuing our direct route to the
post below; but if not I flatter myself secure us an unmolested
retreat to Natchitoches. But if the Spanish jealousy, and the
instigation of domestic traitors should induce them to make us
prisoners of war, (in time of peace) I trust to the magnanimity of our
country for our liberation and a due reward to their opposers, for the
insult and indignity offered their national honor. However, unless
they give us ample assurances of just and honorable treatment,
according to the custom of nations in like cases, I would resist, even
if the inequality was as great as at the affair of Bender [town in
Russia], or the streights of Thermopylæ.[VI-6]
Will you pardon the foregoing as the enthusiasm of a youthful mind,
yet not altogether unimpressed by the dictates of prudence?
I hope the general will be persuaded that with his son I shall act as
I would to a brother, endeavoring in all cases to promote his honor
and prosperity.
In consequence of indisposition, etc., Lieut. Wilkinson will steer one
boat and I the other.
I am, dear General,
Your sincere friend,
And obedient humble servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE.
GENERAL J. WILKINSON.
_Art. 6. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 6, p. 36.)-
VILLAGE DE CHARETTE, Evening of July 22d, 1806.
DEAR SIR:
Finding no prospect of meeting with a private conveyance of our
letters in time sufficient to find you previous to our setting sail,
which would be entirely too late to secure my deserter and give you
the other information they contain, I have hired the bearer to ride
express to Belle Fontaine, for which I have promised him $8; which,
taking into view his ferriages, etc., cannot be deemed high, and I
hope the general will please to order the military agent to discharge
the same.
The weather has at length become settled, and we set sail to-morrow
with our boats newly and much better arranged.
I am, General, with sincere esteem,
And high respect,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE.
GENERAL WILKINSON.
_Art. 7. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 7, p. 36.)-
FIVE LEAGUES BELOW THE RIVER OSAGE, July 26th, 1806.
DEAR GENERAL:
I halt a moment, in order to say we have arrived thus far all safe,
although our savages complain much of fatigue, etc.
The bearer had been sent by Mr. Sangonet [Charles Sanguinet, Sr.] to
examine the Osage river, and reports that they could not get their
canoes up the river more than 60 miles. If so, we have a bad prospect
before us; but go we will, if God permits.
We have been detained several days by the Indians.
I am, dear General,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE.
GEN. JAMES WILKINSON.
_Art. 8. Letter, Wilkinson to Pike. (Orig. No. 9, pp. 38-40.)-
CANTONMENT MISSOURI [at Belle Fontaine],
Aug. 6th, 1806.
SIR:
In consequence of the receipt of the inclosed letters, I have thought
proper to send you an express, to enable you to announce to the Osage
the designs of their enemies, that they may take seasonable measures
to circumvent them. You will not fail, in addition to the within
talk, to enhance our paternal regard for this nation by every proper
expression; but are to keep clear of any conflict in which they may be
involved, though you are to avoid the appearance of abandoning them.
If it should be the Potowatomies' intention to carry their threat into
execution, it is probable they will not attempt to make the blow
before the falling of the leaves; and in the mean time the Osages
should establish a chain of light scouts along the coast of the
Missouri, to ascertain with certainty the approach of their enemy.
It is reduced to a certainty that [Manuel de Lisa] and a society of
which he is the ostensible leader have determined on a project to open
some commercial intercourse with Santa Fe; and as this may lead to a
connection injurious to the United States, and will, I understand, be
attempted without the sanction of law or the permission of the
executive, you must do what you can consistently to defeat the plan.
No good can be derived to the United States from such a project,
because the prosecution of it will depend entirely on the Spaniards,
and they will not permit it, unless to serve their political as well
as their personal interests. I am informed that the ensuing autumn and
winter will be employed in reconnoitering and opening a connection
with the Tetaus, Panis, etc.; that this fall or the next winter, a
grand magazine is to be established at the Osage towns, where these
operations will commence; that [Lisa] is to be the active agent,
having formed a connection with the Tetaus. This will carry forward
their merchandise within three or four days' travel of the Spanish
settlements, where they will deposit it under a guard of 300 Tetaus.
[Lisa] will then go forward with four or five attendants, taking with
him some jewelry and fine goods. With those he will visit the
governor, to whom he will make presents, and implore his pity by a
fine tale of sufferings which have been endured by the change of
government; that they are left here, with goods to be sure, but not a
dollar's worth of bullion, and therefore they have adventured to see
him, for the purpose of praying his leave for the introduction of
their property into the province. If he assents, then the whole of the
goods will be carried forward; if he refuses, then [Lisa] will invite
some of his countrymen to accompany him to his deposit, and having
there exposed to them his merchandise, he will endeavor to open a
forced or clandestine trade; for he observes, the Spaniards will not
dare to attack his camp. Here you have the plan, and you must take all
prudent and lawful means to blow it up.
In regard to your approximation to the Spanish settlements, should
your route lead you near them, or should you fall in with any of their
parties, your conduct must be marked by such circumspection and
discretion as may prevent alarm or conflict, as you will be held
responsible for consequences. On this subject I refer you to my
orders. We have nothing new respecting the pending negotiations in
Europe; but from Colonel [T. H.] Cushing I understand the Spaniards
below are behaving now with great courtesy.
By the return of the bearer you may open your correspondence with the
secretary of war [General Dearborn]; but I would caution you against
anticipating a step before you, for fear of deception and
disappointment. To me you may, and must, write fully and freely, not
only giving a minute detail of everything past worthy of note, but
also of your prospects and the conduct of the Indians. If you discover
that any tricks have been played from St. Louis, you will give them to
me with names, and must not fail to give particulars to the secretary
of war, with names, to warn him against improper confidence and
deception. Inclose your dispatch for me to Colonel [T.] Hunt, and it
will follow me by a party which I leave for the purpose. It is
interesting to you to reach Nachitoches in season to be at the seat of
government pending the session of Congress; yet you must not sacrifice
any essential object to this point. Should fortune favor you on your
present excursion, your importance to our country will, I think, make
your future life comfortable.
To show you how to correct your watch by the quadrant, after it has
been carefully adjusted, preparatory to your observing the eclipses of
the satellites of Jupiter, I send you a very simple plan, which you
will readily understand: a basin of water, in some place protected
from the motion of the air, will give you a fairer artificial horizon
than mercury. I think a tent, with a suitable aperture in the side of
it, would do very well. I have generally unroofed a cabin.
Miranda has botched his business. He has lost his two schooners
captured, and himself in the Leander returned to Jamaica. The French
have a squadron of four frigates at Porto Rico, and five sail of the
line with Jerome Bonaparte at Martinique. I consider them lost.
Your children have been indisposed; but Mrs. Pike writes you. She
appears well. My regards to your associates, and may God protect you.
[Signed] J. WILKINSON.
LIEUTENANT PIKE.
_Art. 9. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 8, p. 37.)-
PARK ON THE OSAGE RIVER, Aug. 14th, 1806.
DEAR SIR:
I send this letter by Baptiste la Tulip [note 36, p. 381], who
informs me he bears letters to Chouteau, informing him that a party of
Little Osages have marched to war against the Kanses, and a party of
Grand Osages left the village expressly to make war on the white
people on the Arkansaw. This latter step White Hair did everything in
his power to prevent, but could not. If true, what are we to think of
our _bons amis_, the Osage?
But to [Manuel de Lisa] must we ascribe the stroke against the Kanses.
He I am informed sent a message to the Osage nation to raze the Kanses
village entirely. On this subject I intended to have been more
particular, and substantiate it by proofs; but present circumstances
seem to give credit to it. On my arrival at the village, more
particular inquiry shall be made on the subject.
Yesterday morning Lieutenant Wilkinson, the doctor, interpreter, and
one soldier, marched with the Indians, as they were very apprehensive
of an attack. The people in the canoe heard them crying and saw them
on their march.
Nothing extraordinary has yet taken place on our route, except our
being favored with a vast quantity of rain, which I hope will enable
us to ascend to the village.
What face will the Indians receive us with? And to whom are we to
ascribe their hostile disposition, unless to the traitors of St.
Louis?
Lieutenant Wilkinson is in very good health, and will lament his
having missed this opportunity of assuring his parents of his love and
affection.
I am, dear General,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE.
GEN. JAMES WILKINSON.
_Art. 10. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 10, pp. 40-42.)-
CAMP INDEPENDENCE, NEAR THE OSAGE TOWNS,
Aug. 28th, 1806.
DEAR GENERAL:
You will no doubt be much surprised to perceive by the date of this
letter that we are still here; but we have been unavoidably detained
by a variety of circumstances.
I had the happiness to receive your express the day of my arrival, the
bearer having arrived the night before, and have attended particularly
to its contents.
On the 19th inst. I delivered your parole to Cheveux Blanche, and on
the 21st held a grand council of both towns, and made the necessary
communications and demands for horses, on the subjects of making
peace with the Kans, accompanying me to the Panis, [and Wilkinson]
down the Arkansaw, and [to ascertain] if there were any brave enough
to accompany me the whole voyage.
They requested one day to hold council in the villages, previous to
giving an answer. It was three before I received any; their
determination was as follows: From the Grand Osage village, or [that
of] Cheveux Blanche, we are accompanied by his son, and Jean La Fon
[Le Fou], the second chief of the village, with some young men not
known, and he furnishes us four horses.
The Little Osage sends the brother of the chief, whom I really find to
be the third chief of the village, and some young men unknown, and
furnishes six horses. This is their present promise, but four of the
ten are yet deficient. With these I am merely capable of transporting
our merchandise and ammunition. I shall purchase two more, for which I
find we shall be obliged to pay extravagant prices.
I sincerely believe that the two chiefs, White Hair and Wind, have
exerted all their influence; but it must be little, when they could
only procure 10 horses out of 700 or 800.
I have taken an exact survey of the river to this place, noting
particular streams, etc., a protracted copy of which Lieutenant
Wilkinson forwards by this opportunity. Since our arrival here I have
ascertained the variation of the compass to be 6° 30´ E.; the
latitude, by means of several observations, 37° 26´ 17´´ N.; and by an
observation on three different nights I obtained two immersions of
Jupiter's satellites, which will enable us to ascertain every
geographical object in view.
On the same night I arrived near the village, Mr. Baptist
Duchouquette, alias Larme, with two men, in a small canoe, arrived and
went immediately to the lodge of White Hair, whose conduct, with that
of our resident interpreter, appears in my estimation to have changed
since I sent Lieutenant Wilkinson to demand to see Baptist's passport,
if he had one, and if not, to bring him to camp; which was done. I
detained him two days, until I had made an inquiry of White Hair, who
said he had merely mentioned to him that Labardie was coming with a
quantity of goods. Finding I could substantiate nothing more criminal
against him than his having entered the Indian boundaries without a
passport, and not being able to send him back a prisoner, I detained
him a sufficient time to alarm him, then took his deposition (a copy
of which is inclosed to the attorney-general), and wrote Dr. Brown on
the occasion, requesting him to enter a prosecution against these men
[see note 44, p. 388, Aug. 20th, 1806].
Barroney informs me that he has not the least doubt that [Lisa] was at
the bottom of this embassy, although in the name of [Labardie]; as
after the arrival of Baptist, the Indians frequently spoke of [Lisa]
and declared that if he had come he could have obtained horses in
plenty.
Our interpreter, Maugraine, also, I do believe to be a perfect
creature of [Lisa]; he has almost positively refused to accompany me,
although I read your order on the subject, alleging he was only
engaged to interpret at this place, notwithstanding he went last year
to the Arkansaw for Mr. Chouteau without difficulty. I have not yet
determined on the line of conduct to be pursued with him; but believe,
on his giving a positive refusal, I shall use military law. What the
result will be is uncertain; but to be thus braved by a scoundrel will
be lessening the dignity of our government. He is married into a
powerful family, and appears, next to White Hair, to have the most
influence in the Grand [Osage] village. The general will please to
observe that much of the foregoing rests on conjecture, and therefore
will give it its due weight. But to him I not only write as my
general, but as a paternal friend, who would not make use of my open
communications, when not capable of being substantiated by proofs.
We have heard nothing of the Potowatomies; but should they come in a
few days, they will meet with a warm reception, as all are ready to
receive them.
Since my arrival here many Spanish medals have been shown me, and some
commissions. All I have done on the subject is merely to advise their
delivery below, when they would be acknowledged by our government.
Many have applied for permission to go to Saint Louis; none of which I
have granted except to the son of Sans Orielle, who goes down to make
inquiry for his sister.
I have advanced our express some things on account, and forward his
receipts; also, some trifles to Barroney, whom I have found to be one
of the finest young men I ever knew in his situation. He appears to
have entirely renounced all his Saint Louis connections, and is as
firm an American as if born one; he of course is entirely discarded by
the people of Saint Louis; but I hope he will not suffer for his
fidelity.
On the chart forwarded by Lieutenant Wilkinson is noted the census
which I caused to be taken of the village of the Little Osage; that of
the big one I shall likewise obtain--they are from actual enumeration.
Lieutenant Wilkinson, if nothing extraordinary prevents, will descend
the Arkansaw, accompanied by Ballenger and two men, as the former is
now perfectly acquainted with the mode of taking courses and
protracting his route, and the latter appears as if he had not the
proper capacity for it, although a good dispositioned and brave man.
I am, dear Sir,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
GEN. WILKINSON.
_Art. 11. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 11, p. 43.)-
[OSAGE TOWNS], Aug. 29th, 1806.
DEAR SIR:
I will continue my communications by relating that Wind has come in
and informed me that the other two horses which he promised have been
withdrawn by their owners. He appeared really distressed, and I
conceive I do him justice in believing that he is extremely mortified
at the deceptions which have been passed on him.
It is with extreme pain that I keep myself cool amongst the
difficulties which those people appear to have a disposition to throw
in my way; but I have declared to them that I should go on, even if I
collected our tents and other baggage which we will be obliged to
leave together, and burnt them on the spot.
I have sold the batteau which I brought up, and which was extremely
rotten, for $100 in merchandise, the price at this place; which I
conceive was preferable to leaving her to destruction, as I am afraid
I do the barge (for which I demanded $150), although I leave her under
the charge of Wind, and shall report her to Colonel [Thomas] Hunt.
I shall dispatch the express to-morrow, as he complains much of the
detention, etc., and as I hope nothing worthy of note will occur at
this place previous to our departure. I hope the general will believe
me to be and, should this be my last report, to have been, his
sincerely attached friend and obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
GEN. WILKINSON.
_Art. 12. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 12, pp. 43, 44.)-
OSAGE TOWNS, Aug. 30th, 1806.
DEAR SIR:
I have brought Mr. Noal, alias Maugraine, to reason, and he either
goes himself or hires, at his expense, a young man who is here who
speaks the Panis language, and in many other respects is preferable to
himself; but he will be the bearer of the express to Saint Louis.
Cheveux Blanche requested me to inform you that there is an Osage
murderer in his village, who killed a Frenchman on the Arkansaw; but
owing to the great dissensions and schism of the Arkansaw faction, he
is fearful to deliver him up without some of his friends having
agreed to it, and his authority being strengthened by a formal demand
from you; when he assures me he shall be brought down a prisoner.
Indeed Cheveux Blanche appears to be very delicately situated, as the
village on the Arkansaw serves as a place of refuge for all the young,
daring, and discontented; added to which, they are much more regularly
supplied with ammunition, and, should not our government take some
steps to prevent it, they will ruin the Grand village, as they are at
liberty to make war without restraint, especially on the nations who
are to the west, and have plenty of horses. The chief says he was
promised, at Washington, that these people should be brought back to
join him; but, on the contrary, many of his village are emigrating
there.
Owing to the difficulty of obtaining horses, Mr. Henry returns from
this place. In descending the Mississippi I will request him to pay
his respects to you.
I last evening took the census of the Grand village, and found it to
be: men, 502; boys, 341; women and girls, 852; total, 1695; lodges,
214.
The express waits, which I hope the general will accept as an excuse
for this scrawl, having written him fully on the 28th and 29th inst.
I am, dear General,
Your ever sincere friend
and obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
GEN. J. WILKINSON.
_Art. 13. Letter, Pike to Dearborn. (Orig. No. 13, pp. 45, 46.)-
PAWNEE REPUBLIC, Oct. 1st, 1806.
SIR:
We arrived here on the 25th ult., after a tedious march of 375 miles,
the distance, as I conceive, being very much augmented by the Osages
who accompanied us leading us too far to the south, owing to their
great fear of the Kans. We suffered considerably with thirst, but our
guns furnished us amply with buffalo meat.
We delivered in safety to the chief the two young Pawnees who had
lately visited Washington, and caused to be explained to the nation
the parole which they bore from the president of the United States.
On our arrival, we found the Spanish and American flags both expanded
in the village, and were much surprised to learn that it was not more
than three or four weeks since a party of Spanish troops, whose
numbers were estimated by the Indians of this town at 300, had
returned to Santa Fe. We further learned that a large body of troops
had left N. Mexico, and on their march had met with the villagers of
the Pawnee Mahaws, who were on one of their semi-annual excursions;
that they encamped together, and entered into a treaty; but after this
the Pawnees raised their camp in the night, and stole a large portion
of the Spaniards' horses. This circumstance induced them to halt on
the Arkansaw with the main body of the troops, and to send forward the
party who appeared at this village. They proposed to this chief to
join a party of his warriors to their troops, march to and entirely
destroy the village of the Pawnee Mahaws; this proposition he had
prudence enough to reject, although at war with that nation. The
Spanish officer informed him that his superior, who remained on the
Arkansaw, had marched from Santa Fe with an intention of entering into
a treaty with the following nations of Indians, viz.: The Kanses,
Pawnee Republic, Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, Otos, and Mahaws; and
had with him a grand medal, commissions, and four mules for each; but
by the stroke of the Pawnee Mahaws the plan was disconcerted, except
only as to this nation. The commissions are dated Santa Fe, 15th of
June, 1806, signed governor-general, etc., etc., of New Mexico, and
run in the usual style of Spanish commissions to savages, as far as I
was capable of judging of their contents.
The chief further informed me that the officer who commanded said
party was too young to hold councils, etc.; that he had only come to
open the road; that in the spring his superior would be here, and
teach the Indians what was good for them; and that they would build a
town near them. In short, it appears to me to have been an expedition
expressly for the purpose of striking a dread into those different
nations of the Spanish power, and to bring about a general combination
in its favor. Under these impressions, I have taken the earliest
opportunity of reporting the infringement of our territory, in order
that our government may not remain in the dark as to the views of her
neighbor.
I effected a meeting at this place between a few Kans and Osages, who
smoked the pipe of peace and buried the hatchet, agreeably to the
wishes of their great father; in consequence of which a Kans has
marched for the Osage nation, and some of the latter propose to
accompany the former to their village; whether this good understanding
will be permanent, I will not take on me to determine; but at least a
temporary good effect has succeeded.
From the Osage towns, I have taken the courses and distances by the
route we came, marking each river or rivulet we crossed, pointing out
the dividing ridges, etc. The waters which we crossed were the heads
of the [Little] Osage, White [Neosho], and Verdigrise rivers, [the two
last] branches of the Arkansaw, and the waters of the [Smoky Hill fork
of the] Kans river. The latitude of this place, I presume, will be in
about 39° 30´ N., and I hope to obtain every other astronomical
observation which will be requisite to fix its geographical situation
beyond dispute. I expect to march from here in a few days; but the
future prospects of the voyage are entirely uncertain, as the savages
strive to throw every impediment in our way, agreeably to the orders
received from the Spaniards. Being seated on the ground, and writing
on the back of a book, I hope will plead my excuse for this scrawl.
I am, Sir,
With high respect,
Your obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
THE HON. HENRY DEARBORN,
Secretary War Department.
_Art. 14. Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 14, pp. 47-50.)-
PAWNEE REPUBLIC, Oct. 2d, 1806.
DEAR GENERAL:
Inclosed you have a copy of my letter from this place to the secretary
of war, in order that, should you think any communication on the
contents necessary, you may have a perfect command of the information
given the war department, and will be the more capable of illustrating
the subject.
You will perceive by said communication, that we were led considerably
out of our course by our guides, in my opinion not less than 100
miles; this was entirely owing to the pusillanimity of the Osage, who
were more afraid of the Kans than I could possibly have imagined.
You will likewise perceive the council which took place between those
nations under our auspices, and its effects, but which I candidly
confess I have very little hopes will be productive of a permanent
peace, as none of the principal men of either nation were present; but
as both are anxious for a cessation of hostilities, perhaps it may
have the desired effect.
Two of the Kans chiefs have said they will pursue the voyage with me
agreeably to my orders. I do not yet know whether they will descend
the Arkansaw with Lieut. Wilkinson, or continue on to Red river with
me; but they have their own selection.
The general will no doubt be struck with some surprise to perceive
that so large a party of Spanish troops have been so lately in our
territory. No doubt at first you would conclude that it must have been
militia; but when informed that their infantry were armed with muskets
and bayonets and had drums, that the men wore long mustaches and
whiskers which almost covered the whole of their faces; that their
cavalry were armed with swords and pistols, and that regular guards
and patrols were kept by horse and foot, you may probably change your
opinion.
The route by which they came and returned was by no means the direct
one from Santa Fe, and why they should have struck so low down as the
Grand Saline, unless they had an idea of striking at the village of
the Grand Pest, or conceived the Saline to be in their territory, I
cannot imagine.
On our arrival here, we were received with great pomp and ceremony by
about 300 men on horseback, and with great apparent friendship by the
chief. The Osage (one chief and four warriors) were presented with
eight horses; the Kans who arrived two days after were also presented
with horses. The day after, we assembled the four principal chiefs to
dine, after which I presented the principal with a double-barreled
gun, gorget,[VI-7] and other articles (this man wore the grand Spanish
medal); gave to the second the small medal you furnished me, with
other articles; and to each of the others a gorget in their turn.
Those presents I conceived would have a good effect, both as to
attaching them to our government and in our immediate intercourse.
At the council which was held a day or two afterward I presented them
with merchandise which at this place should be valued at $250; and
after explaining their relative situation as to the Spanish and
American governments, I asked on my part, if they would assist us with
a few horses, a Tetau prisoner who spoke Pawnee to serve as an
interpreter, an exchange of colors, and finally, for some of their
chiefs to accompany us, to be sent on to Washington. The exchange of
colors was the only request granted at the time; and for particular
reasons, which Lieut. Wilkinson related, I thought proper to return
them to the chief. After spending two or three anxious days, we were
given to understand that our requests could not be complied with in
the other points, and were again strongly urged by the head chief to
return the way we came, and not prosecute our voyage any further. This
brought on an explanation as to our views toward the Spanish
government, in which the chief declared that it had been the intention
of the Spanish troops to proceed further toward the Mississippi, but
that he objected to it, and they listened to him and returned; he
therefore hoped we would be equally reasonable. Finding me still
determined on proceeding, he told me in plain terms (if the
interpreter erred not) that it was the will of the Spaniards we should
not proceed; which I not answering, he painted innumerable
difficulties which he said lay in the way; but finding all his
arguments had no effect, he said "it was a pity," and was silent.
This day I have sent out several of my party to purchase horses, but
know not yet how we shall succeed, as the Kans have intimated an idea
that the chief will prohibit his people from trading with us.
The Pawnees and the Tetaus are at war; the latter killed six of the
former in August last; consequently effecting any communication with
the Tetaus by means of this nation is impossible.
If God permits, we shall march from here in a few days, and on the
Arkansaw I shall remain until I build two small canoes for Lieut.
W[ilkinson], whose party will consist of Ballenger and two or three
men, with three Osage. Those canoes will be easily managed, and in
case of accident to one, the other will still be sufficient to
transport their baggage.
I am informed that in a few days he will meet French hunters, and
probably arrive at the village of the Grand Pest in a fortnight; as
all the Osage nation are apprised of his descent, I conceive he will
meet with no insurmountable difficulties.[*] The Tetaus are at open
war with the Spaniards, so that could we once obtain an introduction,
I conceive we should meet with a favorable reception. Yet how it is to
be brought about I am much at a loss to determine; but knowing that,
at this crisis of affairs, an intimate connection with that nation
might be extremely serviceable to my country, I shall proceed to find
them, in hopes to find some means, through the French, Osage, and
Pawnee languages, of making ourselves understood.
[*] This was erroneous, but it was my impression at the time.
(Orig. note.)]
Any number of men who may reasonably be calculated on would find no
difficulty in marching by the route we came, with baggage wagons,
field artillery, and all the usual appendages of a small army; and if
all the route to Santa Fe should be of the same description, in case
of war I would pledge my life and what is infinitely dearer, my honor,
for the successful march of a reasonable body of troops into the
province of New Mexico.
I find the savages of this country less brave, but possessing much
more duplicity and by far a greater propensity to lying and stealing,
than those I had to pass through on my last [Mississippi] voyage.
I am extremely doubtful if any chief of those nations can be induced
to prosecute the voyage with us, as their dread of the Tetaus and the
objections of the Pawnees seem to outweigh every argument and
inducement to the contrary.
* * * * *
OCT. 3D.
The Pawnee chief has induced the Kans to return to their villages, by
giving them a gun and promising horses, with many frightful pictures
drawn [of what would happen] if they proceeded.
The Osages lent me five horses, which their people who accompanied us
were to have led back; but receiving fresh ones from the Pawnees, they
would not be troubled with them. In fact, it was a fortunate
circumstance, as four of the horses I obtained of the Osage have such
bad backs they cannot proceed, and we will be obliged to leave them;
and not purchasing here with facility, I would have been obliged to
sacrifice some of our baggage. I therefore sent them a certificate for
each horse, on the Indian agent below, which I hope the general will
order him to discharge.
I know the general's goodness will excuse this scrawl, as he is well
acquainted with the situation it must be written in, and at the same
time, believe me to be his sincere friend and
Most obedient humble servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE, Lt.
GENERAL J. WILKINSON.
_Art. 15.[VI-8] Letter, Pike to Wilkinson. (Orig. No. 15, pp. 50-53.)-
ON THE ARKANSAW, latitude 37° 44´ 9´´ N., Oct. 24th, 1806.
DEAR GENERAL:
Our party arrived here on the 15th inst., myself and Dr. Robinson on
the 19th [18th by Itinerary, p. 427]. We, having been out to seek the
trace of the Spanish troops, missed the party, and were not able to
join them until the 4th [3d] day.
The river being very regular, Lieut. Wilkinson had calculated to
proceed on the day following on the most direct route for the Red
[_sic_] river; but shortly after my joining, considerable rain fell
and raised the river, and we have been ever since preparing wooden and
skin canoes for that gentleman and party to descend in. The river is
between 300 and 400 yards in width, with generally flat low banks, not
more than two or three feet high, and the bed a sand-bank from one
side to the other. The want of water will present the greatest
obstacle to the progress of the party who descend the Arkansaw, as
they have no cause to fear a scarcity of provision, having some
bushels of corn on hand, and can at their option take as much dried
meat as they think proper, hundreds of pounds of which are lying on
scaffolds at our camp; and they are likewise accompanied by the choice
of our hunters.
Under these circumstances, and those stated in my letter from the
Pawnees, I can assert with confidence there are no obstacles I should
hesitate to encounter, although those inseparable from a voyage of
several hundred leagues through a wilderness inhabited only by savages
may appear of the greatest magnitude to minds unaccustomed to such
enterprises. Lieut. Wilkinson and party appear in good spirits, and
show a disposition which must vanquish every difficulty.
We were eight days traveling from the Pawnee village to the Arkansaw,
our general course S. 10° W. Several days we lay by nearly half, owing
to various circumstances; my course made it 150 miles, but I could now
march it in 120. Lieut. Wilkinson has copied and carries with him a
very elegant protracted sketch of the route, noting the streams,
hills, etc., that we crossed; their courses, bearings, etc.; and
should I live to arrive, I will pledge myself to show their
connections and general direction with considerable accuracy, as I
have myself spared no pains in reconnoitering or obtaining information
from the savages in our route.
From this point we shall ascend the river until we strike the
mountains, or find the Tetaus; thence bear more to the S. until we
find the head of the Red river, where we shall be detained some time;
after which nothing shall cause a halt until my arrival at
Natchitoches.
I speak in all those cases in the positive mood, as, so far as lies in
the compass of human exertions, we command the power; but I pretend
not to surmount impossibilities, and I well know the general will
pardon my anticipating a little to him.
The general will probably be surprised to find that the expenses[VI-9]
of the expedition will more than double the contemplated sum of our
first calculations; but I conceived the Spaniards were making such
great exertions to debauch the minds of our savages, economy might be
very improperly applied, and I likewise have found the purchase of
horses to be attended with much greater expense than was expected at
St. Louis. For those reasons, when I advert to the expenses of my two
voyages, which I humbly conceive might be compared with the one
performed by Captains Lewis and Clark, and the appropriations made for
theirs, I feel a consciousness that it is impossible for the most
rigid to censure my accounts.
I cannot yet say if I shall sacrifice my horses at Red river, but
every exertion shall be made to save them for the public; some, if in
good condition, would be fine ones, and average between $50 and $60.
Should the fortune of war at length have honored me with a
company,[VI-10] I hope the general will recollect his promise to me,
and have my command attached to it; and on my arrival I shall take the
liberty of soliciting his influence, that they may obtain the same or
similar rewards, as those who accompanied Capt. Lewis; as I will make
bold to say that they have in the two voyages incurred as great
dangers, and gone through as many hardships.
Dr. Robinson presents his respectful compliments, and is sanguine of
the success of our expedition.
I am, dear General,
Your ever attached friend
and obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. PIKE.
GENERAL J. WILKINSON.
_Statistical Abstract of the Indians who inhabit that part of
Louisiana visited by Captain Z. M. Pike in His Tour of Discovery in
the years 1806 and 1807._
Column Headings--
D: Warriors.
E: Women.
F: Children.
G: Villages.
------------------------------------+----------------------------
|
Names. |
--------------+---------------------+----------------------+-----
| | | | | |
English. | Indian. | French. | [D] | [E] | [F] | [G]
--------------+-----------+---------+------+------+--------+-----
| | | | | |
I. Osage | Wasbasha | Osage | 502 | 852 | 341 M. | 1
1. Grand | | Grand | | | |
village[a] | | Osage | | | |
| | | | | |
[2. Little | Wasbasha | Petit | 250 | 241 | 174 F. | 1
village[a]] | | Osage | | | 159 M. |
| | | | | --- |
| | | | | 333 |
| | | | | |
[3. Arkansaw | Wasbasha | | 500 | 700 | 300 M. | 1
village[b]] | | +------+------+--------+-----
| | Osages | | | |
| | Total | 1252 | 1793 | 974 | 3
| | +------+------+--------+-----
| | Kan | | | |
II. Kans[c] | Kansa | [Total] | 465 | 500 | 600 | 1
| | +------+------+--------+-----
| | | | | |
III. Pawnee | Pawnane | Panis | 508 | 550 | 560 |
1. Republican | | | | | | 1
village[a] | | | | | |
| | | | | |
2. Grand | Pawnane | Panis | 1000 | 1120 | 1000 | 1
Village[c] | | | | | |
| | | | | |
3. Loup | Pawnane | Panis | 485 | 500 | 500 | 1
village[c] | | +------+------+--------+-----
| | Pawnees | | | |
| | total | 1993 | 2170 | 2060 | 3
| | | | | |
IV. Tetan[c] | Camanches | [Total] | 2700 | 3000 | 2500 |
| | [Grand +------+------+--------+-----
| | total] | 6410 | 7463 | 6134 | 7
--------------+-----------+---------+------+------+--------+-----
[a] Census taken by myself; men counted, women and children
estimated.
[b] Estimates furnished by Grand Osage chiefs.
[c] On information. (Z. M. P.)
Column Headings--
H: Probable Souls.
I: Lodges of Roving Bands.
J: Fire Arms.
K: Primitive Language.
--------------+-------+------+------++----------
| | | ||
English. | [H] | [I] | [J] || [K]
--------------+-------+------+------++----------
| | | ||
I. Osage | 1695 | 214 | 500 || Osage
1. Grand | | | ||
village | | | ||
| | | ||
[2. Little | 824 | 102 | 250 || Osage
village] | | | ||
| | | ||
[3. Arkansaw | 1500 | 200 | 450 || Osage
village] +-------+------+------++----------
| | | ||
Osages total | 4019 | 516 | 1209 ||
+-------+------+------++----------
| | | ||
II. Kans | 1565 | 204 | 450 || Osage
+-------+------+------++----------
| | | ||
III. Pawnee | | | ||
1. Republican | 1618 | 44 | 200 || Pawnee
village | | | ||
| | | ||
2. Grand | 3120 | 90 | 300 || Pawnee
Village | | | ||
| | | ||
3. Loup | 1485 | 40 | 200 || Pawnee
village +-------+------+------++----------
| | | ||
Pawnee total | 6223 | 174 | 700 ||
| | | ||
IV. Tetan | 8200 | 1020 | 270 || Camanche
+-------+------+------++
Grand total | 20007 | 1914 | 2620 ||
--------------+-------+------+------++----------
Column Headings--
L: Traders or Bands with whom they traffic.
M: Value of Merchandise for Annual Consumption
N: Annual Peltry, Packs.
O: Species of Peltry.
--------------+-----------+--------+-----------+-----------
| | | |
English. | [L] | [M] | [N] | [O]
--------------+-----------+--------+-----------+-----------
| | | |
I. Osage | St. Louis | $10000 | 1000 | Deer,
1. Grand | | | | bear,
village | | | | otter,
| | | | beaver,
| | | | a few
| | | | buffalo
| | | |
[2. Little | St. Louis | 8000 | 300 | do.
village] | | | |
| | | |
[3. Arkansaw | Arkansaw | | |
village] | r. | | |
| | | |
II. Kans | St. Louis | 8000 | 250 deer | Deer,
| | | 15 beaver | beaver,
| | | 100 otter | otter,
| | | | bear,
| | | | buffalo
| | | |
III. Pawnee | St. Louis | 8000 | | Deer,
1. Republican | and Kans | | | buffalo,
village | | | | a few
| | | | beaver
| | | | and
| | | | otter
| | | |
2. Grand | St. Louis | 15000 | | do.
Village | possibly | | |
| once in 3 | | |
| years | | |
| Spaniards | | |
| | | |
3. Loup | do. | 8000 | | do.
village | | | |
| | | |
IV. Tetan | Spaniards | 30000 | | Buffalo
| of N. | | | robes and
| Mexico | | | horses
--------------+-----------+--------+-----------+-----------
-------------+-------------------+----------------+------------------
| | |
| | | With whom at
English. | Best Positions | With whom | peace, or in
| for Trading Posts.| at war. | alliance.
| | |
-------------+-------------------+----------------+------------------
| | |
I. Osage | Middle branch | Tetaus, | Little Osage,
1. Grand | of Osage r. bet. | Potowatomies, | All the Pawnees,
village | Grand and Little | Arkansaws, | Sacs, Reynards,
| Villages | Cherokees, | Delawares,
| | Chickasaws, | Shawanese,
| | Creeks, | Kickapous,
| | Padoucas, | Otos, Missouries,
| | Caddoes | Mahaws, etc.;
| | | Kans uncertain
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
[2. Little | Middle branch | do. | do.
village] | of Osage r bet. | |
| Grand and Little | |
| villages, and | |
| above Gr. Osage | |
| on the Arkansaw, | |
| and on the | |
| side of the | |
| Missouri | |
| | |
| | |
[3. Arkansaw | | do. | do.
village] | | |
| | |
II. Kans | Entrance of | None, if at | All their
| Kans r., or at | peace with | neighbors
| the village | Osage |
| | |
III. Pawnee | do. | Tetaus and | Kans, Osages,
1. Republican| | Indians of N. | and all Indians
village | | Mexico; Panis | of the East
| | Loups |
| | |
| | |
| | |
2. Grand | Entrance of La | Tetaus and | do.
Village | Platte | Indians of N. |
| | Mexico |
| | |
3. Loup | do. | Tetaus and | do.
village | | Indians of N. |
| | Mexico, and |
| | Pawnee Republic|
| | |
IV. Tetan | High up Red r. | Pawnees, Utahs,| With all Spanish
| and near the | Osage, Kans | Indians
| mts. on the | |
| Arkansaw | |
-------------+-------------------+----------------+------------------
------------+----------------------------------------+------------------
| |
| Names of the Chiefs or Principal Men. |
English. +-------------+------------+-------------+ Remarks.
| | | |
| Indian. | French. | English. |
------------+-------------+------------+-------------+------------------
| | | |
I. Osage |Cahagatonga |Cheveux |White Hair |Grand and little
1. Grand | |Blanche | |medals, colors,
village | | | |etc.; first chief
|Watchawaha |Jean La Fon | |Second Chief,
| | | |son-in-law
| | | |to White Hair
|Tawangaha |Fils de |He who drives|Literally from the
| |Canard |villages |Indian
|Ichesohungar | |Wise Family |Son of Cheveux
| | | |Blanche
|Hapause | |Pointed Horn |First Soldier
|Chaporanga |Bonnet | |
|Gihagatche |du Boeuf |The Chief |
| | | himself |
|Shenga Wassa |Belle Oiseau|Beautiful |Accompanied me to
| | | Bird |the Pawnees
|Wasaba Tunga |Sans Nerve |Without Nerve|
|Ogahawasa | |Son-in-Law |
|Tourmansara | |Heart of the |
| | |Town |
| | | |
[2. Little |Tuttasuggy |Le Vent |The Wind |First chief of
village] | | | | Little Osage
|Watchkesingar|Soldat de |Soldier's Dog|Second chief of
| | Chien | | Little Osage
|Nezuma | |Rain which |Brother of first
| | |Walks | chief
|Tetobasi |Sans Oreille|Without Ears |First Soldier
|Tarehem | |Yellow Skin |49 Little Osages
| | |Deer | killed since
| | | | under our
| | | | government
|Maugraine | |Big Rogue |
| | | |
[3. Arkansaw| | | |
village] | | | |
| | | |
II. Kans | | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
III. Pawnee |Characterish |Loup Blanche|White Wolf |
1. Repub- |Iskatape |Homme Riche |Rich Man |
lican | ---- | ---- |Republican |
village | | |Chief |
| | |Two Sons of |
| | |Characterish |
| | | |
2. Grand | | | |
Village | | | |
| | | |
| | | |
3. Loup | | | |
village | | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
IV. Tetan | | | |
--------------+-------------+------------+-------------+----------------
FOOTNOTES:
[VI-1] General Wilkinson's instructions to Lieutenant Pike were
conveyed in the form of two letters, of June 24th and July 12th,
respectively, made in the orig. ed. pp. 107-110 of main text of Pt. 2,
though they were set in smaller type as a sort of preface or
introduction. But as no such preliminary is observed in the other two
parts of the book, and as these orders are in the form of letters from
the general to his lieutenant, I think they are preferably brought in
here. By this single transposition the whole of the correspondence
relating to the Arkansaw expedition is brought together in
chronological order to form the present Chapter VI.
[VI-2] On the subject of our then strained relations with New Spain I
have examined much unpublished manuscript in the Archives of the
Government at Washington, but most of it has become a matter of
well-known history, needless to bring up here. It is well understood
that Pike had secret instructions from the traitor, General Wilkinson,
over and beyond those which were ostensible; and no doubt the main
purpose of his Expedition was to open the way to Santa Fé, with
reference to such military operations as then seemed probable. It is
certain that General Wilkinson contemplated the possibility if not the
probability of invading New Mexico. Take as evidence the following
extract of a letter he wrote to the Secretary of War, dated St. Louis,
Nov. 26th, 1805:
" ... Our situation at New Orleans is a defenceless one, & Colonel
Freeman's removal of two Companies from Fort Adams to that city leaves
us without the means of offence above Batton Rouge, which I do [not]
like, but Freeman felt himself too feeble to stand alone without those
Companies--I most ardently implore we may not be forced to War,
because I seek repose & we are not indeed prepared for it, that is
against European troops--yet if we must draw the sword, the whole of
the troops destined to operate West of the Mississippi should be
mounted, whether Gun-men or sword-men, because every Man of the Enemy
will be found on Horse Back, and the composition should be such as I
have described in a former Letter--If any thing should be done from
this Quarter direct, and I might be indulged to recommend my officers,
to plan & Lead the expedition. If I do not reduce New Mexico, at
least, in one Campaign, I will forfeit my Head."
[VI-3] Art. 3 bears the same number that this piece had in the orig.
ed., and the same is the case with all the following articles of the
present chapter, with one exception, where transposition of Orig. Nos.
8 and 9 to make Arts. 9 and 8 is required to preserve the
chronological order. All these letters are from Pike to Wilkinson,
excepting my Art. 8, Orig. No. 9, which is from Wilkinson to Pike, and
one to General Dearborn. Pike's letters are in the nature of reports
of progress to his commanding general and the Secretary of War. They
ceased, of course, upon his separation from Lieutenant Wilkinson, and
nothing further was heard of or from him till his return from Mexico,
in July, 1807.
[VI-4] There is no allusion to this matter in the letter as originally
printed, where a long row of asterisks indicates the elision of what
it was not thought prudent to publish at that time.
[VI-5] There were two Bissells, both of Connecticut, and of the same
or similar rank in the army, often confused in records of the time,
unless their first names are given, as in this instance; 1. Daniel
Bissell became an ensign in the 1st Infantry, Apr. 11th, 1792; was
arranged to the 1st sub-Legion Sept. 4th, 1792; promoted to a
lieutenancy Jan. 3d, 1794; assigned to the 1st Infantry Nov. 1st,
1796; made a captain Jan. 1st, 1799; lieutenant-colonel, 1st Infantry,
Aug. 18th, 1808; colonel, 5th Infantry, Aug. 15th, 1812;
brigadier-general, Mar. 9th, 1814; honorably discharged June 1st,
1821, and died Dec. 14th, 1833. 2. Russell Bissell became a lieutenant
of the 2d Infantry Mar. 4th, 1791; was arranged to the 2d sub-Legion
Sept. 4th, 1792; made captain Feb. 19th, 1793; assigned to the 2d
Infantry Nov. 1st, 1796; transferred to the 1st Infantry Apr. 1st,
1802; promoted to be major of the 2d Infantry Dec. 9th, 1807, and died
Dec. 18th, 1807. Two other Connecticut Bissells who became army
officers a little later were Lieutenant Hezekiah W., who entered in
1801 and died in 1802; and Captain Lewis, who entered as an ensign in
1808 and resigned in 1817. One Daniel Bissell of Vermont served as a
first lieutenant for about a year, 1799-1800, and in still later years
there have been several other army officers of the same surname.
[VI-6] The above is such an important paragraph that I reproduce it
verbatim from the original, though it is so badly constructed as to be
very obscure. The obscurity, however, is simply bad grammar, not
intentional veiling of anything; and as the sentences cannot be
conveniently reconstructed in the text, I would read as follows:
"With respect to the Ietans, the general may rest assured that I shall
be very cautious about trusting them. I feel more at a loss how to
conduct myself with the Spaniards, for my instructions send me to the
Comanche country, part of which is no doubt claimed by Spain, though
the boundaries between Louisiana and New Spain have never been
settled. Consequently, should I meet a Spanish party from the villages
near Santa Fé, I think it would be good policy to give them to
understand (1) that my party was going to join our troops near
Natchitoches, but had mistaken the Rio Grande for Red river; (2) that
if it would be agreeable to the Spanish commandant, some or all of us
would pay him a polite visit; and (3) that if he did not wish us to do
this, we would go direct to Natchitoches. In any event, I flatter
myself that I shall get out of the scrape somehow. But if Spanish
jealousy of Americans, and the Aaron Burr conspiracy, cause us to be
made prisoners of war (in time of peace), I trust that you will see
that we are released, and they are punished for the insult. Moreover,
if I do not feel assured they will treat us well in Mexico, I will
fight them, no matter how many there are, before I will let them take
us there."
This sort of talk is not that mixture of youthful enthusiasm with
prudence for which Pike begs Wilkinson's pardon in the next paragraph;
but the determination of a resolute young fellow to obey orders to the
best of his ability, and accomplish if possible the purpose of the
secret instructions given him by General Wilkinson. It is also what
boys call a "dead give away"; for here, at the outset of his
Expedition, Pike is talking about going to New Mexico, intending to
deceive the Spaniards he expected to meet there, and weighing the
chances of their good or bad treatment of himself and party. I forbear
to characterize the ethics of the situation; the discerning reader
will be able to look through this hole in a grindstone, and form his
own conclusions: see also note 46 p. 504.
[VI-7] A sort of ornamental neck-band, such as used to be worn by some
officers with insignia of rank, and somewhat like those still affected
by Free Masons and other ecclesiastical or civic orders on occasions
of ceremony.
[VI-8] To this Art. 15 belongs the following table headed Statistical
Abstract of the Indians, etc., which in the orig. ed. was directed to
be bound facing p. 53. This page was followed by blank p. 54, the leaf
of the book thus represented being simply an overrunning of the matter
of the original folder. All that Recapitulation which was on p. 53 is
embodied in the table which now forms pp. 590, 591.
[VI-9] An itemized account of the Congressional appropriation for, and
estimated expenses of, Lewis and Clark's Expedition, is given on p.
xxi of the 1893 ed. of L. and C. So far as I have been able to inform
myself, we lack the data which would enable us to make the comparison
which Pike modestly conceives might be favorable to his own
expeditions. To whatever sum may have been expended on the part of the
United States for the Mississippian voyage and the Arkansaw journey,
as performed under the orders of General Wilkinson, is to be added the
cost of the enforced Mexican tour, in so far as this was paid by the
United States on the strength of claims for reimbursement presented by
the Spanish authorities. On this latter score I have found some
curious unpublished documents in the archives of the War Department at
Washington. Certain of these items will be found beyond in proper
connection with the official correspondence on the subject.
[VI-10] Pike's expected promotion to a captaincy occurred Aug. 12th,
1806.
PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS.
Part III.
_THE MEXICAN TOUR._
CHAPTER I.
ITINERARY: THROUGH NEW MEXICO ON THE RIO GRANDE TO EL PASO, FEB.
27TH-MAR. 21ST, 1807.
Friday, Feb. 27th, 1807. In the morning I discovered that the Spanish
lieutenant [Don Ignatio Saltelo] was writing letters addressed to the
governor and others; on which I demanded if he was not going on with
me to Santa Fe. He appeared confused and said, No; that his orders
were so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that
he dare not go and leave any behind; that his companion [Don Bartolomé
Fernandez] would accompany me to Santa Fe with 50 men, while he with
the others would wait for the sergeant [Meek] and his party. I replied
that he had deceived me, and had not acted with candor; but that it
was now too late for me to remedy the evil.
We marched about eleven o'clock, ascending the Rio del Norte [read Rio
Conejos] five miles more, S. 60° W., when we went round through a
chain of hills and bore off to the south. We proceeded nine miles
further, when we crossed the main branch of that stream, which was now
bearing nearly west toward [or east from] the main chain of the third
chain of mountains [San Juan range]. We encamped on the opposite side.
Intensely cold; obliged to stop frequently and make fires. Snow deep.
Distance 15 [5 + 9 = 14] miles.[I'-1]
_Feb. 28th._ We marched late. One of the Frenchmen informed me that
the expedition which had been at the Pawnees had descended the Red
river 233 leagues, and from thence crossed to the Pawnees expressly in
search of my party. This was afterward confirmed by the gentleman who
commanded the troops. He then expressed great regret at my
misfortunes, as he termed them, in being taken, and offered his
services in secreting papers, etc. I took him at his word, and for my
amusement thought I would try him; so I gave him a leaf or two of my
journal, copied, which mentioned the time of my sailing from Belle
Fontaine, and our force. This I charged him to guard very carefully
and give to me after the investigation of my papers at Santa Fe. This
day we saw a herd of wild horses. The Spaniards pursued them and
caught two colts, one of which the Indians killed and ate; the other
was let go. We pursued our journey over some hills, where the snow was
very deep, and encamped at last on the top of a pretty high hill,
among some pines. We left the river, which in general ran about six,
eight, and 10 miles to the left or east of us. Saw great sign of elk.
Distance 36 miles.[I'-2]
_Sunday, Mar. 1st._ We marched early. Although we rode very hard we
only got to the village of L'eau Chaud, or Warm Spring [Ojo Caliente],
some time in the afternoon. The distance was about 45 miles. The
difference of climate was astonishing; after we left the hills and
deep snows, we found ourselves on plains where there was no snow, and
where vegetation was sprouting.
The village of Warm Springs, or Aqua [Agua] Caliente in their
language, is situated on the eastern branch [bank] of a creek of that
name,[I'-3] and at a distance presents to the eye a square inclosure
of mud walls, the houses forming the walls. They are flat on top, or
with extremely little ascent on one side, where there are spouts to
carry off the water of the melting snow and rain when it falls; which,
we were informed, had been but once in two years previous to our
entering the country. Inside of the inclosure were the different
streets of houses of the same fashion, all of one story; the doors
were narrow, the windows small, and in one or two houses there were
talc lights [window-panes of that material]. This village had a mill
near it, situated on the little creek, which made very good flour. The
population consisted of civilized Indians, but much mixed blood.
Here we had a dance which is called the fandango; but there
was one which was copied from the Mexicans, is now danced in the first
societies of New Spain, and has even been introduced at the court of
Madrid.
This village may contain 500 souls. The greatest natural curiosity is
the warm springs, which are two in number, about 10 yards apart, each
affording sufficient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to be
impregnated with copper, and were more than 33° above blood heat. From
this village the Tetaus drove off 2,000 horses at one time, when at
war with the Spaniards.
_Mar. 2d._ We marched late, and passed several little mud-walled
villages and settlements, all of which had round mud towers of the
ancient shape and construction, to defend the inhabitants from the
intrusions of the savages. I was this day shown the ruins of several
old villages which had been taken and destroyed by the Tetaus. We were
frequently stopped by the women, who invited us into their houses to
eat; and in every place where we halted a moment there was a contest
who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had been frozen were
conducted home by old men, who would cause their daughters to dress
their feet, provide their victuals and drink, and at night give them
the best bed in the house. In short, all their conduct brought to my
recollection the hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me
to sigh with regret at the corruption of that noble principle by the
polish of modern ages.
We descended the creek of Aqua Caliente about 12 miles, where it
joined the river of Conejos [Rio Chama[I'-4]] from the west. This
river was about 30 yards wide, and was settled for 12 miles above its
junction with the Aqua Caliente, as the latter was in its whole course
from the village of that name. From where they form a junction it was
about 15 miles to the Rio del Norte, on the eastern branch [read bank]
of which was situated the village of St. John's [San Juan], which was
the residence of the president priest of the province, who had resided
in it 40 years.
The house-tops of the village of St. John's were crowded, as well as
the streets, when we entered, and at the door of the public quarters
we were met by the president priest. When my companion, who commanded
the escort, received him in a street and embraced him, all the poor
creatures who stood round strove to kiss the ring or hand of the holy
father; for myself, I saluted him in the usual style. My men were
conducted into the quarters, and I went to the house of the priest,
where we were treated with politeness. He offered us coffee,
chocolate, or whatever we thought proper, and desired me to consider
myself at home in his house.
As I was going, some time after, to the quarters of my men, I was
addressed at the door by a man in broken English: "My friend, I am
very sorry to see you here; we are all prisoners in this country and
can never return; I have been a prisoner for nearly three years, and
cannot get out." I replied: "that as for his being a prisoner, it must
be for some crime; that with respect to myself I felt no apprehension;
and requested him to speak French, as I could hardly understand his
English." He began to demand of me so many different questions on the
mode of my getting into the country, my intention, etc., that by the
time I arrived in the room of my men, I was perfectly satisfied of his
having been ordered by some person to endeavor to obtain some
confession or acknowledgment of sinister designs in my having appeared
on the frontiers, and some confidential communications which might
implicate me. As he had been rather insolent in his inquiries, I
ordered my men to shut and fasten the door. I then told him that I
believed him to be an emissary sent on purpose by the governor, or
some person, to endeavor to betray me; that all men of that
description were scoundrels, and never should escape punishment,
whilst I possessed the power to chastise them--immediately ordering my
men to seize him, and cautioning him, at the same time, that, if he
cried out, or made the least resistance, I would be obliged to make
use of the saber which I had in my hand. On this he was so much
alarmed, that he begged me for God's sake not to injure him; he also
said that he had been ordered by the government to meet me, and
endeavor to trace out what and who I was, and what were my designs, by
endeavoring to produce a confidence in him, by his exclaiming against
the Spaniards and complaining of the tyranny which they had exercised
toward him. After this confession, I ordered my men to release him,
and told him that I looked upon him as too contemptible for further
notice; but that he might tell the governor, the next time he employed
emissaries, to choose those of more abilities and sense; and that I
questioned if his Excellency would find the sifting of us an easy
task.
This man's name was Baptiste Lalande;[I'-5] he had come from the
Illinois to the Pawnees, to trade with goods furnished him by William
Morrison, a gentleman of the Illinois, and thence to New Mexico with
the goods which he had procured, and established himself; he was the
same man on whom Robinson had a claim. He returned into the priest's
house with me, and, instead of making any complaint, he in reply to
their inquiries of who I was, etc., informed them that when he left
Louisiana I was governor of the Illinois. This I presume he took for
granted from my having commanded for some time the post of Kaskaskias,
the first military post the United States had established in that
country since the peace; however, the report served to add to the
respect with which my companion and host treated me.
I had at this place the first good meal, wine, etc., which, with the
heat of the house, and perhaps rather an immoderate use of the
refreshments allowed me, produced an attack of something like cholera
morbus, which alarmed me considerably, and made me determine to be
more abstemious in future.
This father was a great naturalist, or rather florist; he had large
collections of flowers, plants, etc., and several works on his
favorite studies, the margins and bottoms of which were filled with
his notes in the Castilian language. As I neither had a natural turn
for botany sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head much with the
Latin, nor understood Castilian, I enjoyed but little of the lectures
which he continued to give me for nearly two hours on those subjects;
but, by the exercise of a small degree of patience, I entirely
acquired the esteem of this worthy father, he calling me his son, and
lamenting extremely that my faith had not made me one of the holy
Catholic church.
The father, being informed that I had some astronomical instruments
with me, expressed a desire to see them. All that I had here was my
sextant and a large glass which magnified considerably, calculated
for the day or night; the remainder of my instruments being with my
sergeant and party. On his examining the sextant, and my showing him
the effect of it in the reflection of the sun, he, as well as hundreds
who surrounded us, appeared more surprised at the effect of the
instrument than any nation of savages I was ever among. Here an idea
struck me as extraordinary--how a man who appeared to be a perfect
master of the ancient languages, a botanist, mineralogist, and
chemist, should be so ignorant of the powers of reflection and the
first principles of mathematics. But my friend explained that enigma,
by informing me of the care the Spanish government took to prevent any
branch of science from being made a pursuit, which would have a
tendency to extend the views of the subjects of the provinces to the
geography of their country, or any other subject which would bring to
view a comparison of their local advantages and situations with other
countries.[I'-6]
St. John's was inclosed with a mud wall, and probably contained 1,000
souls; its population consisted principally of civilized Indians, as
indeed does that of all the villages of New Mexico, the whites not
forming one-twentieth part of the inhabitants.
_Mar. 3d._[I'-7] We marched after breakfast, B. Lalande accompanying
us, and in about six miles came to a village [Santa Cruz], where I
suppose there were more than 2,000 souls. Here we halted at the house
of a priest, who, understanding that I would not kiss his hand, would
not present it to me. The conduct and behavior of a young priest who
came in was such as in our country would have been amply sufficient
forever to have banished him from the clerical association--strutting
about with a dirk in his boot, a cane in his hand, whispering to one
girl, chucking another under the chin, going out with a third, etc.
From this village [Santa Cruz] to another small village [Pojoaque], of
500 inhabitants, is seven miles. At each of those villages is a small
stream, sufficient for the purpose of watering their fields. At the
father's house we took coffee. From this village [Pojoaque] it was 17
miles to another [Tesuque], of 400 civilized Indians. Here we changed
horses and prepared for entering the capital [Santa Fé[I'-8]], which
we came in sight of in the evening. It is situated along the banks of
a small [Santa Fé] creek, which comes down from the mountains, and
runs west to the Rio del Norte. The length of the capital on the creek
may be estimated at one mile; it is but three streets in width.
Its appearance from a distance struck my mind with the same effect as
a fleet of the flat-bottomed boats which are seen in the spring and
fall seasons, descending the Ohio river. There are two churches, the
magnificence of whose steeples form a striking contrast to the
miserable appearance of the houses.[I'-9] On the north side of the
town is the square of soldiers' houses, equal to 120 or 140 on each
flank. The public square is in the center of the town; on the north
side of it is situated the palace, as they term it, or government
house, with the quarters for guards, etc. The other side of the
square is occupied by the clergy and public officers. In general the
houses have a shed before the front, some of which have a flooring of
brick; the consequence is that the streets are very narrow, say in
general 25 feet. The supposed population is 4,500 souls. On our
entering the town the crowd was great, and followed us to the
government house. When we dismounted we were ushered in through
various rooms, the floors of which were covered with skins of buffalo,
bear, or some other animal. We waited in a chamber for some time,
until his Excellency appeared, when we rose, and the following
conversation took place in French:
_Governor._ Do you speak French?
_Pike._ Yes, sir.
_Governor._ You come to reconnoiter our country, do you?
_Pike._ I marched to reconnoiter our own.
_Governor._ In what character are you?
_Pike._ In my proper character, an officer of the United States army.
_Governor._ And this Robinson--is he attached to your party?
_Pike._ No.
_Governor._ Do you know him?
_Pike._ Yes; he is from St. Louis. (I understood the doctor had been
sent 45 leagues from Santa Fe, under a strong guard. The haughty and
unfriendly reception of the governor induced me to believe war must
have been declared, and that if it were known Dr. Robinson had
accompanied me, he would be treated with great severity. I was correct
in saying he was not attached to my party, for he was only a
volunteer, who could not properly be said to be one of my command.)
_Governor._ How many men have you?
_Pike._ Fifteen.
_Governor._ And this Robinson makes sixteen?
_Pike._ I have already told your Excellency that he does not belong to
my party, and shall answer no more interrogatories on that subject.
_Governor._ When did you leave St. Louis?
_Pike._ July 15th.
_Governor._ I think you marched in June.
_Pike._ No, sir!
_Governor._ Well! Return with Mr. Bartholomew to his house; come here
again at seven o'clock, and bring your papers.
On which we returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew, who seemed
much hurt at the interview.
At the door of the government house, I met the old Frenchman to whom I
had given the scrap of paper on the 27th of February. He had left us
in the morning, and, as I suppose, hurried in to make his report, and
I presume had presented this paper to his Excellency. I demanded, with
a look of contempt, if he had made his report? To which he made reply
in a humble tone, and began to excuse himself; but I did not wait to
hear his excuses. At the hour appointed we returned, when the governor
demanded my papers. I told him that I understood my trunk had been
taken possession of by his guard. He expressed surprise, immediately
ordered it in, and also sent for one Solomon Colly, formerly a
sergeant in our army, and one of the unfortunate company of [Captain
Philip] Nolan. We were seated, when he ordered Colly to demand my
name, to which I replied. He then demanded in what province I was
born. I answered in English, and then addressed his Excellency in
French, and told him that I did not think it necessary to enter into
such a catechising; that if he would be at the pains of reading my
commission from the United States, and my orders from my general, it
would be all that I presumed would be necessary to convince his
Excellency that I came with no hostile intentions toward the Spanish
government; that, on the contrary, I had express instructions to guard
against giving them offense or alarm; and that his Excellency would be
convinced that myself and party were rather to be considered objects
on which the so much celebrated generosity of the Spanish nation might
be exercised, than proper subjects to occasion the opposite
sentiments.
He then requested to see my commission and orders, which I read to him
in French; on which he got up and gave me his hand, for the first
time, and said he was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honor
and a gentleman; that I could retire this evening and take my trunk
with me; and that on the morrow he would make further arrangements.
_Mar. 4th._ I was desired by the governor to bring up my trunk, in
order that he might make some observations on my route, etc. When he
ordered me to take my trunk over night, I had conceived that the
examination of papers was over. As many of my documents were intrusted
to the care of my men, and I found that the inhabitants were treating
the men with liquor, I was fearful they would become intoxicated, and
through inadvertency betray or discover the papers. I had therefore
obtained several of them and put them in the trunk, when an officer
arrived for myself and it, and I had no opportunity of taking them out
again before I was taken up to the palace. I discovered instantly that
I had been deceived, but it was too late to remedy the evil.
After examining the contents of my trunk, he informed me that I must,
with my troops, go to Chihuahua, province of Biscay, to appear before
the commandant-general. He added: "You have the key of your trunk in
your own possession; the trunk will be put under charge of the officer
who commands your escort." The following conversation then took place:
_Pike._ If we go to Chihuahua we must be considered as prisoners of
war?
_Governor._ By no means.
_Pike._ You have already disarmed my men without my knowledge; are
their arms to be returned or not?
_Governor._ They can receive them any moment.
_Pike._ But, sir, I cannot consent to be led three or four hundred
leagues out of my route, without its being by force of arms.
_Governor._ I know you do not go voluntarily; but I will give you a
certificate from under my hand of my having obliged you to march.
_Pike._ I will address you a letter on the subject.[I'-10]
_Governor._ You will dine with me to-day, and march afterward to a
village about six miles distant, escorted by Captain Anthony
D'Almansa, with a detachment of dragoons, who will accompany you to
where the remainder of your escort is now waiting for you, under the
command of the officer [Don Facundo Malgares] who commanded the
expedition to the Pawnees.
_Pike._ I would not wish to be impertinent in my observations to your
Excellency; but pray, sir! do you not think it was a greater
infringement of our territory to send 600 miles in the Pawnees', than
for me with our small party to come on the frontiers of yours with an
intent to descend Red river?
_Governor._ I do not understand you.
_Pike._ No, sir! any further explanation is unnecessary.
I then returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew and wrote my
letter to his Excellency, which I had not finished before we were
hurried to dinner.
In the morning I received from the governor, by the hands of his
private secretary, $21, notifying to me that it was the amount of the
king's allowance for my party to Chihuahua, and that it would be
charged to me on account of my subsistence. From this I clearly
understood that it was calculated that the expenses of the party to
Chihuahua would be defrayed by the United States. I also received by
the same hands, from his Excellency, a shirt and neck-cloth, with his
compliments, wishing me to accept of them, "as they had been made in
Spain by his sister and never worn by any person." For this I
returned him my sincere acknowledgments; and it may not be deemed
irrelevant if I explain at this period the miserable appearance we
made, and the situation we were in, with the causes of it.
When we left our interpreter and one man [Vasquez and Smith] on the
Arkansaw, we were obliged to carry all our baggage on our backs;
consequently, that which was the most useful was preferred to the few
ornamental parts of dress we possessed. The ammunition claimed our
first care; tools were secondary; leather, leggings, boots, and
mockinsons were the next in consideration. Consequently, I left all my
uniform, clothing, trunks, etc., as did the men, except what they had
on their backs; conceiving that which would secure the feet and legs
from the cold to be preferable to any less indispensable portion of
our dress. Thus, when we presented ourselves at Santa Fe, I was
dressed in a pair of blue trousers, mockinsons, blanket coat, and a
cap made of scarlet cloth lined with fox-skin; my poor fellows were in
leggings, breech cloths and leather coats, and there was not a hat in
the whole party. This appearance was extremely mortifying to us all,
especially as soldiers; although some of the officers used frequently
to observe to me, that "worth made the man," etc., with a variety of
adages to the same amount. Yet the first impression made on the
ignorant is hard to eradicate; and a greater proof cannot be given of
the ignorance of the common people, than their asking if we lived in
houses, or in camps like the Indians, and if we wore hats in our
country. Those observations are sufficient to show the impression our
uncouth appearance made amongst them.
The dinner at the governor's was rather splendid, having a variety of
dishes and wines of the southern provinces; and when his Excellency
was a little warmed with the influence of cheering liquor, he became
very sociable. He informed me that there existed a serious difficulty
between the commandant-general of the internal provinces and the
Marquis Caso Calvo, who had given permission to Mr. [William] Dunbar
to explore the Ouchata [Washita], contrary to the general principles
of their government; in consequence of which the former had made
representations against the latter to the court of Madrid. After
dinner his Excellency ordered his coach; Captain D'Almansa,
Bartholomew, and myself entered with him, and he drove out three
miles. He was drawn by six mules and attended by a guard of cavalry.
When we parted his adieu was, "remember Allencaster, in peace or war."
I left a note for my sergeant, with instructions to keep up good
discipline and not be alarmed or discouraged. As I was about leaving
the public square, poor Colly, the American prisoner, came up with
tears in his eyes, and hoped I would not forget him when I arrived in
the United States.
After we left the governor we rode on about three miles to a defile,
where we halted for the troops. I soon found that the old soldier who
accompanied us and commanded our escort was fond of a drop of the
cheering liquor, as his boy carried a bottle in his cochmelies [read
cojinillos], a small leather case attached to the saddle for the
purpose of carrying small articles.[I'-11] We were accompanied by my
friend Bartholomew. We ascended a hill and galloped on until about ten
o'clock; it was snowing hard all the time. Then we came to a
precipice, which we descended with great difficulty, from the
obscurity of the night, to the small village,[I'-12] where we put up
in the quarters of the priest, he being absent.
After supper, Captain D'Almansa related to me that he had served his
Catholic majesty 40 years to arrive at the rank he then held, which
was that of a first lieutenant in the line and a captain by brevet,
whilst he had seen various young Europeans promoted over his head.
After the old man had taken his _quantum sufficit_ and gone to sleep,
my friend and myself sat up for some hours, he explaining to me their
situation, the great desire they felt for a change of affairs and an
open trade with the United States. I pointed out to him with chalk on
the floor the geographical connection and route from North Mexico and
Louisiana, and finally gave him a certificate addressed to the
citizens of the United States, stating his friendly disposition and
his being a man of influence. This paper he seemed to estimate as a
very valuable acquisition, as he was decidedly of opinion we would
invade that country the ensuing spring; and not all my assurances to
the contrary could eradicate that idea.
_Mar. 5th._ As it snowed very hard in the morning, we did not march
until eleven o'clock. In the meantime, Bartholomew and myself paid a
visit to an old invalid Spaniard, who received us in the most
hospitable manner, giving us chocolate, etc. He made many inquiries as
to our government and religion, and of [Bartholomew], who did not fail
to give them the brightest coloring; he being enthusiastic in their
favor from his many conversations with me, and drawing comparisons
with his own country. What appeared to the old veteran most
extraordinary was that we ever changed our president. I was obliged
to draw his powers on a nearer affinity with those of a monarch than
they really are, in order that they might comprehend his station and
that there was a perfect freedom of conscience permitted in our
country. He, however, expressed his warm approbation of the measure.
In the priest's house at which we put up were two orphan girls, who
were adopted by him in their infancy and at this time constituted his
whole family.
I bid adieu to my friend Bartholomew, and could not avoid shedding
tears; he embraced me and all my men.
We arrived at the village of St. Domingo[I'-13] at two o'clock. It is,
as I supposed, nine miles [to this place, which is situated] on the
east side of the Rio del Norte, and is a large village, the population
being about 1,000 natives, generally governed by its own chief. The
chiefs of the villages were distinguished by a cane with a silver head
and black tassel. On our arrival at the public house Captain D'Almansa
was waited on by the governor, cap in hand, to receive his orders as
to furnishing our quarters and ourselves with wood, water, provisions,
etc. The house itself contained nothing but bare walls and small
grated windows, which brought to my recollection the representations
of the Spanish inhabitants given by Dr. [John] Moore [the Scottish
writer, 1730-1802], in his travels through Spain, Italy, etc. This
village, as well as those of St. Philip's and St. Bartholomew, [San
Felipe and San Bartolomé] is of the nation of Keres [or Queres] many
of whom do not yet speak good Spanish.
After we had refreshed ourselves a little, the captain sent for the
keys of the church; and when we entered it, I was much astonished to
find, inclosed in mud-brick walls, many rich paintings, and the saint
(Domingo) as large as life, elegantly ornamented with gold and silver.
The captain made a slight inclination of the head, and intimated to me
that this was the patron of the village. We then ascended into the
gallery, where the choir are generally placed. In an outside hall was
placed another image of the saint, less richly ornamented, where the
populace repaired daily and knelt to return thanks for benefactions
received, or to ask new favors. Many young girls, indeed, chose the
time of our visit to be on their knees before the holy patron. From
the flat roof of the church we had a delightful view of the village;
the Rio del Norte [and Jemez mountains] on the west; the mountains of
St. Dies [San Diaz, _i. e._, Sandia] to the south; the valley round
the town, on which were numerous herds of goats, sheep, and
asses--upon the whole, this was one of the handsomest views in New
Mexico.
_Mar. 6th._ Marched down the Rio del Norte on the east side. Snow one
foot deep. Passed large flocks of goats. At [opposite] the village of
St. Philip's [San Felipe[I'-14]] we crossed [the Rio Grande to the
town over] a bridge of eight arches, constructed as follows: the
pillars made of neat woodwork, something similar to a crate, and in
the form of a keel-boat, the sharp end or bow to the current; this
crate or butment was filled with stone, in which the river lodged
sand, clay, etc., until it had become of a tolerably firm consistency.
On the top of the pillars were laid pine logs, lengthways, squared on
two sides; being joined pretty close, these made a tolerable bridge
for horses, but would not have been very safe for carriages, as there
were no hand-rails.
On our arrival at the house of the father, we were received in a very
polite and friendly manner; and before my departure we seemed to have
been friends for years past. During our dinner, at which we had a
variety of wines, we were entertained with music, composed of bass
drums, French horns, violins, and cymbals. We likewise entered into a
long and candid conversation as to the Creoles, wherein he spared
neither the government nor its administrators. As to government and
religion, Father Rubi displayed a liberality of opinion and a fund of
knowledge which astonished me. He showed me a statistical table on
which he had, in a regular manner, taken the whole province of New
Mexico by villages, beginning at Tous [Taos], on the northwest, and
ending with Valencia on the south, giving their latitude, longitude,
and population, whether natives or Spaniards, civilized or barbarous,
Christians or pagans, numbers, names of the nations, when converted,
how governed, military force, clergy, salary, etc.--in short, a
complete geographical, statistical, and historical sketch of the
province. Of this I wished to obtain a copy, but perceived that the
captain was somewhat surprised at its having been shown to me. When we
parted, we promised to write to each other, which I performed from
Chihuahua.