Transcriber's Note:
Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Superscripts are prefixed
with a ^caret. Symbols in the text are noted by [Symbol: ]. Blanks in
the text are represented by ----.
Footnote numbering, which in the original restarted at "1" with every
chapter, has been prepended with the Roman chapter number (e. g. VI-7
for the 7th note of chapter 6). Footnotes to Part III are indicated
with a prime (e. g. I'-7).
Footnote III-37 was missing its anchor. Its location in the text was
approximated.
This book is the second of three volumes. Page numbering continues
from Volume 1, available at https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43774.
Volume 3, at https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/43776, contains an
Index and Maps.
Pike's Expeditions
VOLUME II.
THE EXPEDITIONS
OF
ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE,
To Headwaters of the Mississippi River,
Through Louisiana Territory, and in New Spain,
During the Years 1805-6-7.
A NEW EDITION,
NOW FIRST REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL OF 1810,
WITH COPIOUS CRITICAL COMMENTARY,
MEMOIR OF PIKE, NEW MAP AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS,
AND COMPLETE INDEX,
BY
ELLIOTT COUES,
Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States Army,
Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geological Survey,
Member of the National Academy of Sciences,
Editor of Lewis and Clark,
etc., etc., etc.
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
Arkansaw Journey--Mexican Tour.
NEW YORK:
FRANCIS P. HARPER.
1895.
COPYRIGHT, 1895,
BY
FRANCIS P. HARPER,
New York.
All rights reserved.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
PART II.
THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY.
CHAPTER I. PAGES
ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND
THROUGH KANSAS TO THE PAWNEE VILLAGE ON
THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPTEMBER
30TH, 1806, 357-416
CHAPTER II.
ITINERARY, CONTINUED: FROM THE PAWNEE VILLAGE
THROUGH KANSAS AND COLORADO TO PIKE'S PEAK,
OCTOBER 1ST-NOVEMBER 30TH, 1806, 417-459
CHAPTER III.
ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO
ON HEADWATERS OF THE ARKANSAW AND
RIO GRANDE, DECEMBER 1ST, 1806-FEBRUARY 26TH,
1807, 460-510
CHAPTER IV.
PIKE'S DISSERTATION ON LOUISIANA, 511-538
CHAPTER V.
WILKINSON'S REPORT ON THE ARKANSAW, 539-561
CHAPTER VI.
CORRESPONDENCE, 562-594
PART III.
THE MEXICAN TOUR.
CHAPTER I. PAGES
ITINERARY: THROUGH NEW MEXICO ON THE RIO
GRANDE TO EL PASO, FEBRUARY 27TH-MARCH
21ST, 1807, 595-647
CHAPTER II.
ITINERARY, CONTINUED: THROUGH OLD MEXICO, IN
CHIHUAHUA, DURANGO, AND COAHUILA, TO THE
PRESIDIO GRANDE, MARCH 22D-MAY 31ST, 1807, 648-689
CHAPTER III.
ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: THROUGH TEXAS TO NATCHITOCHES
ON THE RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, JUNE
1ST-JULY 1ST, 1807, 690-717
CHAPTER IV.
OBSERVATIONS ON NEW SPAIN, 718-806
CHAPTER V.
CORRESPONDENCE, 807-839
CHAPTER VI.
CONGRESSIONAL REPORT AND ACCOMPANYING DOCUMENTS, 840-856
PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS.
Part II.
_THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY._
CHAPTER I.
ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND THROUGH KANSAS TO THE
PAWNEE VILLAGE ON THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPT. 30TH, 1806.
Tuesday, July 15th, 1806. We sailed from the landing at Belle
Fontaine[I-1] about 3 o'clock p. m., in two boats. Our party consisted
of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, two corporals, 16
privates and one interpreter.[I-2] We had also under our charge chiefs
of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number of women and children,
had been to Washington. These Indians had been redeemed from captivity
among the Potowatomies, and were now to be returned to their friends
at the Osage towns. The whole number of Indians amounted to 51.
We ascended the river about six miles, and encamped on the south side
behind an island. This day my boat swung around twice; once when we
had a tow-rope on shore, which it snapped off in an instant. The
Indians did not encamp with us at night. Distance six miles.[I-3]
_July 16th._ We rejoined our red brethren at breakfast, after which we
again separated, and with very severe labor arrived late in the
evening opposite the village of St. Charles,[I-4] where the Indians
joined us. Distance 15 miles.
_July 17th._ We crossed the river to learn if any communications had
arrived from St. Louis, and if there was any news of other Indian
enemies of the Osages. Called at Mr. James Morrison's, and was
introduced to Mr. [George] Henry, of New Jersey, about 28 years of
age; he spoke a little Spanish and French tolerably well; he wished to
go with me as a volunteer. From this place I wrote letters back to
Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians were crossing the river. A man by
the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians that 500 Sacs, Ioways, and
Reynards were at the mouth of Big Manitou [_i. e._, the band under
Pashepaho (Stabber) and Quashquame (Lance)]. This gave them
considerable uneasiness, and it took me some time to do away the
impression it made upon them, for I by no means believed it. We were
about sailing when my interpreter [Vasquez] was arrested by the
sheriff at the suit of Manuel De Liza [or Lisa[I-5]], for a debt
between $300 and $400, and was obliged to return to St. Louis. This
made it necessary for me to write another letter to the general.[I-6]
We encamped about three-fourths of a mile above the village.
_July 18th._ Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson went with [one
soldier and] the Indians across the country to the village of La
Charette.[I-7] Mr. George Henry engaged, under oath, to accompany me
on my tour. Wrote to the general, and inclosed him one of Henry's
engagements.[I-8] After we had made our little arrangements we
marched by land and joined the boats, which had sailed early [in
charge of Sergeant Ballenger], at twelve o'clock. Two of the men being
sick, I steered one boat and Mr. Henry the other, by which means we
were enabled to keep employed our full complement of oars, although we
put the sick men on shore. Encamped on the north side. About eleven at
night a tremendous thunderstorm arose, and it continued to blow and
rain, with thunder and lightning, until day. Distance 15 miles.[I-9]
_July 19th._ In consequence of the rain we did not put off until past
nine o'clock; my sick men marched. I had some reason to suspect that
one of them [Kennerman[I-10]] intended never joining us again. At
dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on board; I then went on
board the other, and we continued to run races all day. Although this
boat had hitherto kept behind, yet I arrived at the encamping ground
with her nearly half an hour before the other. The current not
generally so strong as below. Distance 14 miles.[I-11]
_Sunday, July 20th._ Embarked about sunrise. Wishing to ascertain the
temperature of the water, I discovered my large thermometer to be
missing, which probably had fallen into the river. Passed one
settlement on the north side, and, after turning the point to the
south, saw two more houses on the south side. We encamped [on the
south] in a long reach which bore north and west. The absentees had
not yet joined us. Distance 15 miles.[I-12]
_July 21st._ It commenced raining near day, and continued until four
o'clock in the afternoon; the rain was immensely heavy, with thunder
and lightning remarkably severe. This obliged me to lie by; for, if we
proceeded with our boats, it necessarily exposed our baggage much more
than when at rest, as the tarpaulin could then cover all. We set sail
at a quarter past four o'clock, and arrived at the village of La
Charette at a little after the dusk of the evening. Here we found
Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians; also, Baroney
[Vasquez[I-13]], our interpreter, with letters from the general and
our friends. The weather still continued cloudy, with rain. We were
received in the house of Mr. Chartron, and every accommodation in his
power was offered us. Distance six miles.[I-14]
_July 22d._ We arranged our boats, dried our lading, and wrote
letters for Belle Fontaine.
_July 23d._ I dispatched an express to the general, with
advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier who had
deserted.[I-15] We embarked after breakfast, and made good progress.
Lieutenant Wilkinson steered one boat and I the other, in order to
detach all the men on shore, with the Indians, that we could spare. We
crossed to the south side, a little below Shepherd river. Dr. Robinson
killed a deer, which was the first killed by the party. Distance 13
miles.[I-16]
_July 24th._ We embarked at half past six o'clock. Very foggy. The
Indians accompanied by only three of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson
being a little indisposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his
boat. We made an excellent day's journey, and encamped [on the south]
five miles from [below] the Gasconade river. Killed three deer, one
bear, and three turkeys. But three or four of the Indians arrived; the
others encamped a small distance below. Distance 18 miles.[I-17]
_July 25th._ We embarked at half past six o'clock, and arrived at the
entrance of the Gasconade river at half past eight o'clock, at which
place I determined to remain the day, as my Indians and foot people
were yet in the rear, and they had complained to me of being without
shoes, leggings, etc. Distance five miles.[I-18]
One of our Pawnees did not arrive until late; the other had
communicated his suspicions to me that the Oto, who was in company,
had killed him: he acknowledged that he proposed to him to take out
their baggage and return to St. Louis. The real occasion of his
absence, however, was his having followed a large fresh trace up the
Gasconade a considerable distance; but finding it led from the
Missouri, he examined it and discovered horses to have been on it; he
then left it, joined ours, and came in. This being generally the route
taken by the Potowatamies, when they go to war against the Osage, it
occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were awakened by the mourning
of the savages, who commenced crying about daylight, and continued
for the space of an hour. I made inquiry of my interpreter with
respect to this, who informed me that this was a custom not only with
those who had recently lost their relatives, but also with others who
recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined
the other mourners purely from sympathy. They appeared extremely
affected; tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; but
in a moment they dry their cheeks and cease their cries. Their songs
of grief generally run thus: "My dear father exists no longer; have
pity on me, O Great Spirit! you see I cry forever; dry my tears and
give me comfort." The warriors' songs are thus: "Our enemies have
slain my father (or mother); he is lost to me and his family; I pray
to you, O Master of Life! to preserve me until I avenge his death, and
then do with me as thou pleaseth."
_July 26th._ We commenced at five o'clock to ferry the Indians over
the Gasconade, and left the entrance of this river at half past six
o'clock in the afternoon. Met five Frenchmen, who informed us that
they had just left the Osage river, and that it was so low they could
not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote letters and sent them back by
them.[I-19] Dr. Robinson, Baroney, Sparks, and all the Indians
encamped about one league above us. Killed one bear, two deer, one
otter, three turkeys, and one raccoon. Distance 15 miles.[I-20]
_Sunday, July 27th._ We embarked at half past five o'clock, and
arrived at the Indians' camp at seven o'clock. They had been alarmed
the day before, and in the evening sent men back in the trace, and
some of the chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them. About half
past three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. There being
every appearance of rain, we halted thus early in order to give the
Indians time to prepare temporary camps, and to secure our baggage. I
went out to hunt, and firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who
were in the woods, they knew the difference of the report of my rifle
from their guns, were alarmed, and immediately retired to camp.
Distance 13 miles.[I-21]
_July 28th._ Embarked at half past five o'clock, and at half past ten
arrived at the Osage[I-22] river, where we stopped, discharged our
guns, bathed, etc. We then proceeded on about six miles, where we
waited for and crossed the Indians to the west shore; we then
proceeded on to the first island, and encamped on the west side, Sans
Oreille and only four or five young men coming up, the rest encamping
some distance behind. Killed one deer and one turkey. Distance 19
miles.
_July 29th._ All the [rest of the] Indians arrived very early. Big
Soldier, whom I had appointed the officer to regulate the march, was
much displeased that Sans Oreille and the others had left him, and
said for that reason he would not suffer any woman to go in the boat
and by that means separate the party; but in truth it was from
jealousy of the men whose women went in the boats. He began by
flogging one of the young men and was about to strike Sans Oreille's
wife, but was stopped by him and told that he knew he had done wrong,
but that the women were innocent. We then crossed them and embarked at
half past eight o'clock. About twelve o'clock we found the Indians
rafting the river, when the first chief of the Little Osage, called
Tuttasuggy, or Wind, told me that the man whom Big Soldier struck had
not yet arrived with his wife, "but that he would throw them away." As
I knew he was extremely mortified at the dissensions which appeared to
reign amongst them, I told him by no means [to do so]; that one of my
boats should wait for the woman and her child, but that the man might
go to the devil, as a punishment for his insubordination.
I then left Baroney with one boat, and proceeded with the other. We
were called ashore by three young Indians, who had killed some deer;
and, on putting them on board, gave them about one or two gills of
whisky, which intoxicated all of them. It commenced raining about one
o'clock, and continued incessantly for three hours, which obliged us
to stop and encamp. One of our men, Miller, lost himself, and did not
arrive until after dark. Killed five deer, one turkey, and one
raccoon. Distance 14 miles.[I-23]
_July 30th._ After the fog dispersed I left Lieutenant Wilkinson with
the party to dry the baggage, and went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley.
About two o'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the first
rapid about three miles, encamped on the eastern shore. Killed three
deer. Distance five miles.[I-24]
_July 31st._ We embarked early, and passed several rapids pretty well.
Dined with the Indians. Two of them left us in the morning for the
village, and they all had an idea of doing the same, but finally
concluded otherwise. One of the Osages, who had left the party for the
village, returned and reported that he had seen and heard strange
Indians in the woods. This we considered as merely a pretext to come
back. I this day lost my dog, and the misfortune was the greater, as
we had no other dog which would bring anything out of the water. This
was the dog Fisher had presented to me at Prairie des Chiens. Killed
three deer and one turkey. Distance 18 miles.[I-25]
_Aug. 1st._ It having rained all night, the river appeared to have
risen about six inches. We spread out our baggage to dry, but it
continuing to rain at intervals all day, the things were wetter at
sundown than in the morning. We rolled them up and left them on the
beach. We sent out two hunters in the morning, one of whom killed
three deer; all the Indians killed three more.
_Aug. 2d._ The weather cleared up. The lading being spread out to dry,
Dr. Robinson, myself, Bradley, Sparks, and Brown went out to hunt. We
killed four deer, the Indians two. Having reloaded the boats, we
embarked at five o'clock, and came about two miles. The river rose, in
the last 24 hours, four inches.
_Sunday, Aug. 3d._ Embarked early, and wishing to save the fresh [take
advantage of the rise in the river], I pushed hard all day. Sparks was
lost, and did not arrive until night. We encamped about 25 paces from
the river, on a sand-bar. Near day I heard the sentry observe that the
boats had better be brought in; I got up and found the water within a
rod of our tent, and before we could get all our things out it had
reached the tent. Killed nine deer, one wildcat, one goose, and one
turkey. Distance 18 miles.[I-26]
_Aug. 4th._ We embarked early and continued on for some time, not
being able to find a suitable place to dry our things, but at length
stopped on the east shore. Here we had to ferry the Indians over a
small channel which we did not before observe; all of them, however,
not arriving, we put off and continued our route. Finding our progress
much impeded by our mast, I unshipped it and stripped it of its iron,
and, after Lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our names on it, set it
adrift, followed by the yards. This mast had been cut and made at [our
wintering post on] Pine creek, Upper Mississippi. After proceeding
some miles, we found the Indians on the west shore, they having rafted
the river. We stopped for them to cook, after which we proceeded. The
navigation had become very difficult from the rapidity of the current,
occasioned by the rise of the water, which rose one foot in an hour.
Killed two deer. Rainy. Distance 10 miles.[I-27]
_Aug. 5th._ We lay by this day, in order to give the Indians an
opportunity to dry their baggage. Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied
by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt; we lost the latter about two miles
from camp. After hunting some time on the west shore, we concluded to
raft the river, which we effected with difficulty and danger, and
hunted for some time, but without success. We then returned to the
party and found that Mr. Henry, who had been lost, had arrived one
hour before us; he had met one of the soldiers, who brought him in.
To-day in our tour I passed over a remarkably large rattlesnake, as he
lay curled up, and trod so near him as to touch him with my foot, he
drawing himself up to make room for my heel. Dr. Robinson, who
followed me, was on the point of treading on him, but by a spring
avoided it. I then turned round and touched him with my ramrod, but he
showed no disposition to bite, and appeared quite peaceable. The
gratitude which I felt toward him for not having bitten me induced me
to save his life. Killed four deer. River rises 13 inches. Rain
continues.
_Aug. 6th._ We embarked at half past eight o'clock, it having cleared
off and had the appearance of a fine day. Passed [Little] Gravel river
[of Pike, now Big Gravois creek] on the west.[I-28] About three miles
above this river the Indians left us and informed me that, by keeping
a little to the south and west, they would make in 15 miles what would
be at least 35 miles for us. Dr. Robinson, Mr. Henry, and Sergeant
Ballenger accompanied them. Killed two deer. Distance 13 miles.
_Aug. 7th._ Not being detained by the Indians, we are for once enabled
to embark at a quarter past five o'clock. The river having fallen
since yesterday morning about four feet, we wish to improve every
moment of time previous to its entire fall. We proceeded extremely
well, passed the Saline [read Great Gravel[I-29]] river [of Pike, now
Grand Auglaise creek] on the east, and encamped opposite La Belle
Roche on the west shore. This day we passed many beautiful cliffs on
both sides of the river; saw a bear and wolf swimming the river. I
employed myself part of the day in translating into French a talk of
General Wilkinson's to Cheveux Blanche.[I-30] Distance 21 miles.
_Aug. 8th._ We embarked at 20 minutes past five o'clock. Found the
river had fallen about two feet during the night. At the confluence of
the Youngar[I-31] with the Osage river we breakfasted. Encamped at
night on a bar. Distance 21 miles.
_Aug. 9th._ We embarked at five o'clock, and at half past six met the
Indians and our gentlemen. They had met with nothing extraordinary.
They had killed in their excursion seven deer and three bear. We
proceeded to an old wintering ground, where there were eight houses,
occupied last winter by [Blank], who had not been able to proceed any
higher for want of water. Passed the Old Man's Rapids, below which, on
the west shore, are some beautiful cliffs. Dined with the Indians,
after which we passed Upper Gravel river on the west, and Pottoe [qu.
Poteau?] river on the east. Sparks went out to hunt, and did not
arrive at our encampment, nor did the Indians. Distance 25
miles.[I-32]
_Sunday, Aug. 10th._ Embarked a quarter past five o'clock, when the
sun shone out very clearly; but in 15 minutes it began to rain, and
continued to rain very hard until one o'clock. Passed the Indians, who
were encamped on the west shore, about half a mile, and halted for
them. They all forded the river but Sans Oreille, who brought his wife
up to the boats, and informed me that Sparks had encamped with them,
but left them early to return in search of us. We proceeded after
breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the moment we were embarking. The
Indians traversing the country on the east had sent Sparks with Sans
Oreille. About two o'clock split a plank in the bottom of the batteau.
Unloaded and turned her up, repaired the breach, and continued on the
route. By four o'clock found the Indians behind a large island; we
made no stop, and they followed us. We encamped together on a bar,
where we proposed halting to dry our corn, etc., on Monday. Killed
four deer. Distance 18½ miles.[I-33]
_Aug. 11th._ We continued here to dry our corn and baggage. This
morning we had a match at shooting. The prize offered to the
successful person was a jacket and a twist of tobacco, which I myself
was so fortunate as to win; I made the articles, however, a present to
the young fellow who waited on me. After this, taking Huddleston with
me, I went out to hunt; after traveling about 12 miles we arrived at
the river, almost exhausted with thirst. I here indulged myself by
drinking plentifully of the water, and was rendered so extremely
unwell by it that I was scarcely capable of pursuing my route to the
camp. On arriving opposite it, I swam the river, from which I
experienced considerable relief. The party informed me they had found
the heat very oppressive, and the mercury, at sundown, was at 25°
Reaumer [Réaumur]. This day, for the first time, I saw trout west of
the Allegheny mountains. Reloaded our boats and finished two new oars,
which were requisite.
_Aug. 12th._ Previously to our embarkation, which took place at half
past five o'clock, I was obliged to convince my red brethren that, if
I protected them, I would not suffer them to plunder my men with
impunity; for the chief had got one of my lads' tin cups attached to
his baggage, and, notwithstanding it was marked with the initials of
the soldier's name, he refused to give it up. On which I requested the
interpreter to tell him, "that I had no idea that he had purloined the
cup, but supposed some other person had attached it to his baggage;
but that, knowing it to be my soldier's, I requested him to deliver it
up, or I should be obliged to take other measures to obtain it." This
had the desired effect; for I certainly should have put my threats
into execution, from this principle, formed from my experience during
my intercourse with Indians, that if you have justice on your side,
and do not enforce it, they universally despise you. When we stopped
for dinner, one of my men took his gun and went out; not having
returned when we were ready to re-embark, I left him. Passed the
Indians twice when they were crossing the river. Passed some very
beautiful cliffs on the W. [N. or right] shore; also Vermillion
[Little Tabeau] and Grand rivers, the latter of which is a large
stream, and encamped at the [first bend above it, on the E. or
left-hand bank of the Osage[I-34]]. Distance 24 miles.
Immediately after our encampment a thunder-storm came on, which blew
overboard my flag-staff and a number of articles of my clothing, which
were on top of the cabin, and sunk them immediately. Being much
fatigued and the bank difficult of ascent, lay down in the cabin
without supper and slept all night. It continued to rain. The man
[Sparks] I left on shore arrived on the opposite bank in the night,
having killed two deer, but was obliged to leave the largest behind.
Finding he was not to be sent for, he concealed his gun and deer, and
swam the river.
_Aug. 13th._ It continued to rain. In the morning sent a boat over for
Sparks' gun and deer. Embarked at half past nine o'clock. Stopped to
dine at two o'clock. During the time we halted, the river rose over
the flat bar on which we were; this, if we had no other proof, would
convince us we were near the head of the river, as the rain must have
reached it. We made almost a perfect circle, so that I do not believe
we were to-night three miles from where we encamped last night. This
day, for the first time, we have prairie hills. Distance 13
miles.[I-35]
_Aug. 14th._ Embarked at half past five o'clock. Passed the Park,
which is 10 miles around, and not more than three-quarters of a mile
across, bearing from S. 5° E. to due N. At its head we breakfasted,
and just as we were about to put off we saw and brought-to a canoe
manned with three engagees of Mr. [Chouteau], who informed us that
the Little Osage had marched a war-party against the Kans, and the
Grand Osage a party against our citizens on the Arkansaw river. Wrote
by them to the general[I-36] and all friends. Gave the poor fellows
some whisky and eight quarts of corn, they having had only two turkeys
for four days. We left them and proceeded, passing on our east some of
the largest cedars I ever saw. Came on very well in the afternoon, and
encamped[I-37] on an island above Turkey island. Distance 28 miles.
_Aug. 15th._ We embarked at five o'clock, and at eight o'clock met the
Indians and the gentlemen[I-38] who accompanied them. Found all well.
They had been joined by their friends and relatives from the village,
with horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant Wilkinson informed
me that their meeting was very tender and affectionate--"wives
throwing themselves into the arms of their husbands, parents embracing
their children, and children their parents, brothers and sisters
meeting, one from captivity, the other from the towns; they at the
same time returning thanks to the Good God for having brought them
once more together"--in short, the _tout ensemble_ was such as to make
polished society blush, when compared with those savages, in whom the
passions of the mind, whether joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge,
have their full scope. Why can we not correct the baneful passions,
without weakening the good? Sans Oreille made them a speech, in which
he remarked: "Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your
daughters, your sons, redeemed from captivity. Who did this? Was it
the Spaniards? No. The French? No. Had either of those people been
governors of the country, your relatives might have rotted in
captivity, and you never would have seen them; but the Americans
stretched forth their hands, and they are returned to you! What can
you do in return for all this goodness? Nothing; all your lives would
not suffice to repay their goodness." This man had children in
captivity, not one of whom we were able to obtain for him.
The chief then requested that Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson
might be permitted to accompany them by land, to which I consented.
Wrote a letter to Cheveux Blanche, by Lieutenant Wilkinson. When we
parted, after delivering the Indians their baggage, Sans Oreille put
an Indian on board to hunt, or obey any other commands I might have
for him. We stopped at eleven o'clock to dry our baggage. Found our
biscuit and crackers almost all ruined. Put off at half past four
o'clock, and encamped at three-quarters past five o'clock. Distance
15½ miles.[I-39]
_Aug. 16th._ We embarked at five o'clock and came on extremely well
in the barge to an evacuated French hunting-camp 12 miles to
breakfast, the batteaux coming up late. We exchanged hands. About
twelve o'clock passed the Grand Fork [confluence of Sac river with the
Osage, above Osceola], which is equal in size to the one on which we
pursued our route. Waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's
Nest, on the W. shore, above the forks. The batteaux having gained
nearly half an hour, the crews are convinced that it is not the boat,
but men who make the difference; each take their own boat, after which
we proceeded very well, the water being good and men in spirits. Saw
an elk on the shore; also met an old man alone hunting, from whom we
obtained no information of consequence. Encamped on the W. shore of
Mine [or Mire] river. Distance 37 miles.[I-40]
We to-day passed the place where the chief called Belle Oiseau, and
others, were killed. The Belle Oiseau was killed by the Sacs in the
year 1804, in a boat of Manuel de Liza, when on his way down to St.
Louis, in order to join the first deputation of his nation who were
forwarded to the seat of government by Governor Lewis. A particular
relation of the event, no doubt, has been given by that gentleman.
This chief had a son who accompanied me to the Pawnee nation, and
whose honorable deportment, attachment to our government, amiableness
of disposition, and the respect and esteem in which he was held by his
compeers, entitle him to the attention of our agents to his nation.
_Sunday, Aug. 17th._ We embarked at five o'clock and came 12 miles to
breakfast. At four o'clock arrived at 10 French houses on the E.
shore, where was then residing a Sac, who was married to an Osage
femme and spoke French only. We afterward passed the position where
Mr. [Pierre] Chouteau formerly had his fort [Fort Carondelet[I-41]],
not a vestige of which was remaining, the spot being only marked by
the superior growth of vegetation. Here the river-bank is one solid
bed of stone-coal, just below which is a very shoal and rapid ripple
[Kaw rapids, where was Collen or Colly ford]; whence to the village of
the Grand Osage is nine miles across a large prairie. We came about
two miles above [Chouteau's], and encamped on the W. [right-hand]
shore. This day the river has been generally bounded by prairies on
both sides. Distance 41½ miles.
_Aug. 18th._ We put off at half past five o'clock. Stopped at nine
o'clock to breakfast. Passed the second fork[I-42] of the river at
twelve o'clock, the right-hand fork bearing N., about 30 yards wide;
the left, the one which we pursued, N. 60° W., and not more than 50 or
60 feet in width, very full of old trees, etc., but with plenty of
water. Observed the road where the chiefs and Lieutenant Wilkinson
crossed. We proceeded until one o'clock, when we were halted by a
large drift quite across the river. Dispatched Baroney to the village
of the Grand Osage, to procure horses to take our baggage nearer to
the towns, and unloaded our boats. In about two hours Lieutenant
Wilkinson, with Tuttasuggy, arrived at our camp, the former of whom
presented me an express from the general[I-43] and letters from my
friends. The chiefs remained at our camp all night. I was attacked by
a violent headache. It commenced raining, and continued with great
force until day. Distance 19¼ miles.
_Aug. 19th._ We commenced very early to arrange our baggage, but had
not finished at one o'clock, when the chief of the Grand Osage, and 40
or 50 men of his village, arrived with horses. We loaded and took our
departure for the place where Manuel de Liza had his establishment,
[near Fort Carondelet], at which we arrived about four o'clock, and
commenced pitching our encampment near the edge of the prairie, when I
was informed that three men had arrived from St. Louis sent by Manuel
de Liza. I dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village with
Baroney, who brought to camp the man [Jean Baptiste Duchouquette] who
had charge of the others from St. Louis; he having no passport, I
detained him until further consideration. Our reception by the Osage
was flattering, and particularly by White Hair and our fellow-travelers.
This evening there arrived in the village of the Grand Osage an
express from the Arkansaw, who brought the news that a boat, ascending
that river, had been fired on, had two white men killed and two
wounded, and that the brother-in-law of Cheveux Blanche, who happened
to be on board, was also killed. This put the whole village in
mourning.
_Aug. 20th._ About twelve o'clock I dispatched Baroney for the chiefs
of the Grand [Osage] village, in order to give the general's parole to
Cheveux Blanche; also, a young man to the village of the Little Osage.
Cheveux Blanche and his people arrived about three o'clock, and after
waiting some time for Wind and his people, I just informed the chiefs
that I had merely assembled them to deliver the parole of the general
and present the marks of distinction intended for Cheveux Blanche and
his son--hanging a grand medal round the neck of the latter. The
packets committed to my charge for the relations of the deceased
Osages were then delivered to them, the widow making the distribution.
It must be remarked that I had merely requested Cheveux Blanche to
come with his son, and receive the general's message; but instead of
coming with a few chiefs, he was accompanied by 186 men, to all of
whom we were obliged to give something to drink. When the council was
over we mounted our horses, rode to the village, and halted at the
quarters of the chief, where we were regaled with boiled pumpkins;
then we went to two different houses, and were invited to many others,
but declined, promising that I would pay them a visit previous to my
departure, and spend the whole day. We then returned to camp. After
inquiring of White Hair if the men of Manuel de Liza had any
ostensible object in view, he informed me that they had only said to
him that they expected Manuel would be up to trade in the autumn. I
concluded to take the deposition of Babtiste Larme as to the manner in
which he was employed by Manuel de Liza, forward the same to Dr.
Brown[I-44] and the attorney-general of Louisiana, and permit the men
to return to St. Louis, as it was impossible for me to detach a party
with them as prisoners.
_Aug. 21st._ In the morning White Hair paid us a visit, and brought us
a present of corn, meat, and grease; we invited him, his son, and
son-in-law to breakfast with us, and gave his companions something to
eat. I then wrote a number of letters to send by express, and inclosed
the deposition of Larme. In the afternoon we rode to the village of
the Little Osage, and were received by our fellow-travelers with true
hospitality. Returned in the evening, when a tremendous storm of rain,
thunder, and lightning commenced, and continued with extraordinary
violence until half past nine o'clock. It was with great difficulty we
were enabled to keep our tents from blowing down. The place prepared
for an observatory was carried away.
_Aug. 22d._ Preparing in the morning for the council, and committing
to paper the heads of the subject on which I intended to speak. The
chiefs of the Little Osage arrived about one o'clock, also the
interpreter of the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that the Grand
Osage had expected us at their village with the Little Osage. Cheveux
Blanche arrived with his chiefs. The ceremony of the council being
arranged, I delivered them the general's parole, forwarded by express.
My reason for not delivering it until this time was in order to have
the two villages together, as it was equally interesting to both.
After this I explained at large the will, wishes, and advice of their
Great Father, and the mode which I conceived most applicable to carry
them into effect. Cheveux Blanche replied in a few words, and promised
to give me a full reply to-morrow. Wind replied to the same amount;
after which Cheveux Blanche addressed himself to Wind as follows: "I
am shocked at your conduct, Tuttasuggy--you who have lately come from
the States, and should have been wise; but you led the redeemed
captives, with an officer of the United States, to your village,
instead of bringing them through my town in the first instance." To
this Wind made no reply, but left his seat shortly after, under
pretense of giving some orders to his young men. I conceived this
reprimand intended barely to show us the superiority of the one and
inferiority of the other; it originated, in my opinion, from an
altercation of Lieutenant Wilkinson and Cheveux Blanche, in which
allusions were made by the former to the friendly conduct of the
Little Chief, alias Wind, when compared to that of the latter. I must
here observe that when the chiefs and prisoners left me, accompanied
by Lieutenant Wilkinson, I did not know the geographical situation of
the two villages,[I-45] but conceived that, in going to the Little
Village, they would pass by the Grand Village, and of course that
Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief would arrange the affair properly.
_Aug. 23d._ I expected to have received from the chiefs their answers
to my demands; but received an express from both villages, informing
me that they wished to put them off until to-morrow. I then adjusted
my instruments. Took equal altitudes and a meridional altitude of the
sun; but, owing to flying clouds, missed the immersions of Jupiter's
satellites.
_Sunday, Aug. 24th._ Was nearly half the day in adjusting the line of
collimation in the telescopic sights of my theodolite. It began to
cloud before evening, and although the sky was not entirely covered, I
was so unfortunate as to miss the time of an immersion, and, although
clear in the intermediate period, an emersion also. I was informed by
Baroney that the Little Village had made up 11 horses for us. In the
evening, however, the interpreter, accompanied by the son-in-law and
son of Cheveux Blanche, came to camp, and informed me that there were
no horses to be got in the village of the Big Osage.
The son-in-law spoke as follows: "I am come to give you the news of
our village, which is unfortunate for us, our chief having assembled
his young men and warriors and proposed to them to furnish horses,
etc. They have generally refused him; but I, who am the principal man
after Cheveux Blanche, will accompany you." The son: "Our young men
and warriors will not take pity on my father, nor on me, nor on you,
and have refused to comply with your request; but I will accompany you
with two horses to carry provision for your voyage." The interpreter:
"The Cheveux Blanche was ashamed to bring you this answer, but will
again assemble his village and to-morrow come and give you the
answer." I replied: "That I had made the demand without explanation,
merely to let the Osage act agreeably to their inclination, in order
that we might see what disposition they would exhibit toward us; but
why do I ask of their chiefs to follow me to the Pawnees? Is it for
our good, or their own? Is it not to make peace with the Kans? To put
their wives and children out of danger? As to their horses which they
may furnish us with, I will pay them for their hire; but it is
uncertain whether I can pay them here, or give them an order on the
Superintendent of Indian Affairs at St. Louis; but this I do not now
wish them to be made acquainted with."
_Aug. 25th._ In the morning we were visited by Cheveux Blanche and
three or four of his chiefs, who were pleased to accord to my demands.
He found much difficulty in informing me that in all his village he
could only raise four horses, but that we should be accompanied by his
son and son-in-law. I then expressed to him the difference of our
expectations from the reality. He remained until after twelve o'clock,
when I went to the Little Osage village, and was received with great
friendship by the chief. Remained all night at the house of
Tuttasuggy. Took the census.[I-46]
_Aug. 26th._ Rose early and found my friends in council, which was
merely relative to our horses. The chief then declared their
determination to me, and that he himself gave me one horse, and lent
me eight more to carry our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old
batteau for $100 in merchandise, which I conceived infinitely
preferable to leaving her to the uncertain safeguard of the Indians.
About this time we received the news that the party of Potowatomies
were discovered to be near the towns. I gave them the best advice I
was capable of giving, and then returned to our camp.
_Aug. 27th._ Spent in arranging our baggage for the horses. Received
four horses from the Little Village and two from the Big Village. In
the evening Lieutenant Wilkinson rode to the Grand Village. I observed
two immersions of Jupiter's satellites.
_Aug. 28th._ Writing to the secretary at war and the general, and
making arrangements for our departure. Visited by Wind and Sans
Oreille.
_Aug. 29th._ Forenoon writing letters. In the afternoon Dr. Robinson
and myself went to the Grand Village, at which we saw the great
medicine dance. Remained at the village all night.
_Aug. 30th._ Returned to the camp after settling all my affairs at the
town. Sealed up our dispatches and sent off the general's
express.[I-47] In the afternoon we were visited by the principal men
of the Little Village and the chief, to whom I presented a flag, and
made the donations which I conceived requisite to the different
Indians, on account of horses, etc.
_Sunday, Aug. 31st._ Arranging our packs and loading our horses, in
order to fit our loads, as we expected to march on the morrow. Up late
writing letters.
_Sept. 1st._ Struck our tents early in the morning, and commenced
loading our horses. We now discovered that an Indian had stolen a
large black horse which Cheveux Blanche had presented to Lieutenant
Wilkinson. I mounted a horse to pursue him; but the interpreter sent
to town, and the chief's wife sent another in its place. We left the
place about twelve o'clock with 15 loaded horses,[I-48] our party
consisting of two lieutenants, one doctor, two sergeants, one
corporal, 15 privates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and four
chiefs of the Grand Osage, amounting in all to 30 warriors and one
woman. We crossed the Grand Osage fork and a prairie N. 80° W. five
miles to the fork of the Little Osage.[I-49] Joined by Sans Oreille
and seven Little Osage, all of whom I equipped for the march. Distance
eight miles.
_Sept. 2d._ Marched at six o'clock. Halted at ten o'clock and two
o'clock on the side of the creek [Little Osage river], our route
having been all the time on its borders. Whilst there I was informed
by a young Indian that Mr. C. Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I
conceived it proper for me to return, which I did, accompanied by
Baroney, first to the Little Village; whence we were accompanied by
Wind to the Big Village, where we remained all night at the lodge of
Cheveux Blanche. Mr. Chouteau gave us all the news, after which I
scrawled a letter to the general and my friends.
_Sept. 3d._ Rose early, and went to the Little Village to breakfast.
After giving my letters to Mr. Henry, and arranging my affairs, we
proceeded, and overtook our party at two o'clock. They had left their
first camp about four miles. Our horses being much fatigued, we
concluded to remain all night. Sent out our red and white hunters, all
of whom only killed two turkeys. Distance four miles.[I-50]
_Sept. 4th._ When about to march in the morning one of our horses was
missing; we left Sans Oreille, with the two Pawnees, to search for
him, and proceeded till about nine o'clock; stopped until twelve
o'clock, and then marched. In about half an hour I was overtaken and
informed that Sans Oreille had not been able to find our horse; on
which we encamped, and sent two horses back for the load. One of the
Indians, being jealous of his wife, sent her back to the village.
After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and myself took our
horses and followed the course of a little stream until we arrived at
the Grand[I-51] river, which was distant about six miles. We here
found a most delightful basin of water, of 25 paces' diameter and
about 100 in circumference, in which we bathed; found it deep and
delightfully pleasant. Nature scarcely ever formed a more beautiful
place for a farm. We returned to camp about dusk, when I was informed
that some of the Indians had been dreaming and wished to return.
Killed one deer, one turkey, one raccoon. Distance [made by the main
party] 13 miles.
_Sept. 5th._ In the morning our Little Osage all came to a
determination to return, and, much to my surprise, Sans Oreille among
the rest. I had given an order on the chiefs for the lost horse to be
delivered to Sans Oreille's wife, previously to my knowing that he was
going back; but took from him his gun, and the guns from all the
others also.
In about five miles we struck a beautiful hill, which bears south on
the prairie; its elevation I suppose to be 100 feet. From its summit
the view is sublime to the east and southeast. We waited on this hill
to breakfast, and had to send two miles for water. Killed a deer on
the rise, which was soon roasting before the fire. Here another Indian
wished to return and take his horse with him; which, as we had so few,
I could not allow, for he had already received a gun for the use of
his horse. I told him he might return, but his horse would go to the
Pawnees.
We marched, leaving the Osage trace, which we had hitherto followed,
and crossed the hills to a creek that was almost dry. Descended it to
the main [Little Osage] river, where we dined [vicinity of Harding].
The discontented Indian came up, and put on an air of satisfaction and
content.
We again marched about six miles further, and encamped at the head of
a small creek, about half a mile from the water. Distance 19 miles
[approaching Xenia, Bourbon Co., Kas.[I-52]].
_Sept. 6th._ We marched at half past six o'clock, and arrived at a
large fork of the Little Osage river, where we breakfasted [vicinity
of Xenia]. In the holes of the creek we discovered many fish, which,
from the stripes on their bellies and their spots, I supposed to be
trout and bass; they were 12 inches long. This brought to mind the
necessity of a net, which would have frequently afforded subsistence
to the whole party. We halted at one o'clock and remained until four
o'clock. Being told that we could not arrive at any water, we here
filled our vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing ridge,
between the waters of the Osage and the Arkansaw, alias White
river,[I-53] the dry branches of which interlock within 20 yards of
each other. The prospect from the dividing ridge to the east and
southeast is sublime. The prairie rising and falling in regular
swells, as far as the sight can extend, produces a very beautiful
appearance. We left our course, and struck down to the southwest on a
small [tributary of Elm] creek, or rather a puddle of water. Killed
one deer. Distance 20 miles.
_Sunday, Sept. 7th._ We left this at half past six o'clock, before
which we had a difficulty with the son of the chief, which was
accommodated. At nine o'clock we came on a large fork [of Elm creek]
and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on and encamped on a fine stream
[Deer creek?], where we swam our horses and bathed ourselves. Killed
four deer. Distance 15 miles.[I-54]
_Sept. 8th._ Marched early, and arrived at a grand fork of the White
river.[I-55] The Indians were all discontented; we had taken the wrong
ford; but, as they were dispersed through the woods, we could not be
governed by their movements. Previously to our leaving the camp, the
son of Cheveux Blanche proposed returning, and offered no other reason
than that he felt too lazy to perform the route. The reason I offered
to prevent his going was ineffectual, and he departed with his hunter,
who deprived us of one horse. His return left us without any chief or
man of consideration, except the son of Belle Oiseau, who was but a
lad. The former appeared to be a discontented young fellow, filled
with self-pride; he certainly should have considered it as an honor to
be sent on so respectable an embassy as he was. Another Indian, who
owned one of our horses, wished to return with him, which was
positively refused him; but fearing he might steal him, I contented
him with a present. We marched, and made the second branch [North Big
creek], crossing one prairie 12 miles, in which we suffered much with
drought. Distance 22 miles.[I-56]
_Sept. 9th._ Marched at seven o'clock, and struck a large [Eagle]
creek at 11 miles' distance. On holding a council, it was determined
to ascend this creek to the highest point of water, and strike across
to a large river of the Arkansaw [watershed]. We ascended 4½ miles,
and encamped. Killed one cabrie [antelope, _Antilocapra americana_],
two deer, and two turkeys. Distance 12 miles.[I-57]
_Sept. 10th._ Marched early. Struck and passed the divide between the
Grand [Neosho] river and the Verdegris [or Vermilion] river. Stopped
to breakfast on a small stream of the latter; after which we marched
and encamped on the fourth small stream [tributary of Vermilion
river]. Killed one elk, one deer. Distance 21 miles.[I-58]
_Sept. 11th._ Passed four branches and over high hilly prairies.
Encamped at night on a large branch of Grand river. Killed one cabrie,
one deer. Distance 17 miles.[I-59]
_Sept. 12th._ Commenced our march at seven o'clock. Passed very ruff
[rough] flint hills. My feet blistered and very sore. I stood on a
hill, and in one view below me saw buffalo, elk, deer, cabrie, and
panthers. Encamped on the main [Cottonwood] branch of Grand [Neosho]
river, which had very steep banks and was deep. Dr. Robinson, Bradley,
and Baroney arrived after dusk, having killed three buffalo, which,
with one I killed, and two by the Indians, made six; the Indians
alleging it was the Kans' hunting ground, therefore they would destroy
all the game they possibly could. Distance 18 miles.[I-60]
_Sept. 13th._ Late in marching, it having every appearance of rain.
Halted to dine on a branch of Grand river. Marched again at half past
two o'clock, and halted at five, intending to dispatch Dr. Robinson
and one of our Pawnees to the village to-morrow. Killed six buffalo,
one elk, and three deer. Distance nine miles.[I-61]
_Sunday, Sept. 14th._ The doctor and Frank, a young Pawnee, marched
for the village at daylight; we at half past six o'clock. Halted at
one o'clock. On the march we were continually passing through large
herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie; and I have no doubt that one hunter
could support 200 men. I prevented the men shooting at the game, not
merely because of the scarcity of ammunition, but, as I conceived, the
laws of morality forbid it also. Encamped at sunset on the main branch
[Cottonwood] of White river, hitherto called Grand river. Killed one
buffalo and one cabrie. Distance 21 miles.[I-62]
_Sept. 15th._ Marched at seven o'clock; passed a very large Kans
encampment, evacuated, which had been occupied last summer. Proceeded
on to the dividing ridge between the waters of White river and the
Kans [more exactly, from basin of the Cottonwood to that of the Smoky
Hill]. This ridge was covered with a layer of stone, which was
strongly impregnated with iron ore, and on the W. side of said ridge
we found spa springs. Halted at one o'clock, very much against the
inclination of the Osage, who, from the running of the buffalo,
conceived a party of Kans to be near. Killed two buffalo. Distance 18
miles.[I-63]
_Sept. 16th._ Marched late, and in about 4½ miles' distance came to a
very handsome branch of water [Hobbs branch of Gypsum creek], at which
we stopped and remained until after two o'clock, when we marched and
crossed two branches [main Gypsum and Stag creeks]. Encamped on a
third. At the second [Gypsum] creek, a horse was discovered on the
prairie, when Baroney went in pursuit of him on a horse of Lieutenant
Wilkinson, but arrived at our camp without success. Distance 13
miles.[I-64]
_Sept. 17th._ Marched early and struck the main S. E. [Smoky Hill]
branch of the Kans river at nine o'clock; it appeared to be 25 or 30
yards wide, and is navigable in the flood seasons. We passed it six
miles to a small branch to breakfast. Game getting scarce, our
provision began to run low. Marched about two o'clock, and encamped at
sundown on a large branch [Mulberry creek]. Killed one buffalo.
Distance 21 miles.[I-65]
_Sept. 18th._ Marched at our usual hour, and at twelve o'clock halted
at a large branch [Saline river] of the Kans [Smoky Hill], which was
strongly impregnated with salt. This day we expected the people of the
[Pawnee] village to meet us. We marched again at four o'clock. Our
route being over a continued series of hills and hollows, we were
until eight at night before we arrived at a small dry branch [of
Covert creek]. It was nearly ten o'clock before we found any water.
Commenced raining a little before day. Distance 25 miles.[I-66]
_Sept. 19th._ It having commenced raining early, we secured our
baggage and pitched our tents. The rain continued without any
intermission the whole day, during which we employed ourselves in
reading the Bible and Pope's Essays, and in pricking on our arms with
India ink some characters, which will frequently bring to mind our
forlorn and dreary situation, as well as the happiest days of our
life. In the rear of our encampment was a hill, on which there was a
large rock, where the Indians kept a continual sentinel, as I imagine
to apprise them of the approach of any party, friends or foes, as well
as to see if they could discover any game on the prairies.
_Sept. 20th._ It appearing as if we possibly might have a clear day, I
ordered our baggage spread abroad to dry; but it shortly after clouded
up and commenced raining. The Osage sentinel discovered a buffalo on
the prairies; upon which we dispatched a hunter on horseback in
pursuit of him, also some hunters on foot; before night they killed
three buffalo, some of the best of which we brought in and jerked or
dried by the fire. It continued showery until afternoon, when we put
our baggage again in a position to dry, and remained encamped. The
detention of the doctor and our Pawnee ambassador began to be a
serious matter of consideration.
_Sunday, Sept. 21st._ We marched at eight o'clock, although there was
every appearance of rain, and at eleven o'clock passed a large [Little
Saline river of Pike, now Covert] creek, remarkably salt. Stopped at
one o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt creek. Our interpreter
having killed an elk, we sent out for some meat, which detained us so
late that I concluded it best to encamp where we were, in preference
to running the risk of finding no water. Distance 10 miles.
Lieutenant Wilkinson was attacked with a severe headache and slight
fever. One of my men had been attacked with a touch of the pleurisy on
the 18th, and was still ill. We were informed by an Osage woman that
two of the Indians were conspiring to desert us in the night and
steal some of our horses, one of whom was her husband. We engaged her
as our spy. Thus were we obliged to keep ourselves on our guard
against our own companions and fellow-travelers--men of a nation
highly favored by the United States, but whom I believe to be a
faithless set of poltrons, incapable of a great and generous action.
Among them, indeed, there may be some exceptions.
In the evening, finding that the two Indians above mentioned had made
all preparations to depart, I sent for one of them, who owned a horse
and had received a gun and other property for his hire, and told him
"I knew his plans, and that if he was disposed to desert, I should
take care to retain his horse; that as for himself, he might leave me
if he pleased, as I only wanted men with us." He replied "that he was
a man, that he always performed his promises, that he had never said
he would return; but that he would follow me to the Pawnee village,
which he intended to do." He then brought his baggage and put it under
charge of the sentinel, and slept by my fire; but notwithstanding I
had him well watched.
_Sept. 22d._ We did not march until eight o'clock, owing to the
indisposition of Lieutenant Wilkinson. At eleven waited to dine. Light
mists of rain, with flying clouds. We marched again at three o'clock,
and continued our route 12 miles to the first branch of the Republican
Fork. [?] Met a Pawnee hunter, who informed us that the chief had left
the village the day after the doctor arrived, with 50 or 60 horses and
many people, and had taken his course to the north of our route;
consequently we had missed each other. He likewise informed us that
the Tetaus [misprint for Tetans, and that a mistake for Ietans, _i. e._,
Comanches] had recently killed six Pawnees, the Kans had stolen some
horses, and a party of 300 Spaniards had lately been as far as the
Sabine; but for what purpose was unknown. Distance 11 miles.[I-67]
_Sept. 23d._ Marched early and passed a large fork of the Kans [_i. e._,
Smoky Hill] river, which I [correctly] suppose to be the one generally
called Solomon's. One of our horses fell into the water and wet his
load. Halted at ten o'clock on a branch of this fork. We marched
at half past one o'clock, and encamped at sundown on a stream [Buffalo
creek] where we had a great difficulty to find water. We were overtaken
by a Pawnee, who encamped with us. He offered his horse for our use.
Distance 21 miles.[I-68]
_Sept. 24th._ We could not find our horses until late, when we
marched. Before noon met Frank, who had accompanied Dr. Robinson to
the village, and three other Pawnees, who informed us that the chief
and his party had only arrived at the village yesterday, and had
dispatched them out in search of us. Before three o'clock we were
joined by several Pawnees; one of them wore a scarlet coat, with a
small medal of General Washington, and a Spanish medal also. We
encamped at sunset on a middle-sized branch [White Rock creek], and
were joined by several Pawnees in the evening, who brought us some
buffalo meat. Here we saw some mules, horses, bridles, and blankets,
which they obtained of the Spaniards. Few only had breech cloths, most
being wrapped in buffalo robes, otherwise quite naked. Distance 18
miles.[I-69]
_Sept. 25th._ We marched at a good hour, and in about eight miles
struck a very large road on which the Spanish troops had returned, and
on which we could yet discover the grass beaten down in the direction
which they went.
When we arrived within about three miles of the village, we were
requested to remain, as the ceremony of receiving the Osage into the
towns was to be performed here. There was a small circular spot, clear
of grass, before which the Osage sat down. We were a small distance in
advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then advanced within a mile of us,
halted, divided into two troops, and came on each flank at full
charge, making all the gestures and performing the maneuvers of a real
war charge. They then encircled us around, and the chief advanced in
the center and gave us his hand; his name was Caracterish. He was
accompanied by his two sons and a chief by the name of Iskatappe. The
Osage were still seated; but Belle Oiseau then rose, came forward with
a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who took a whiff or two from
it. We then proceeded; the chief, Lieutenant Wilkinson, and myself in
front; my sergeant, on a white horse, next with the colors; then our
horses and baggage, escorted by our men, with the Pawnees on each
side, running races, etc. When we arrived on the hill over the town we
were again halted, and the Osage seated in a row; when each Pawnee who
intended so to do presented them with a horse and gave a pipe to smoke
to the Osage to whom he had made the present. In this manner were
eight horses given. Lieutenant Wilkinson then proceeded with the party
to the [Republican] river above the town, and encamped. I went up to
our camp in the evening, having a young Pawnee with me loaded with
corn for my men. Distance 12 miles.[I-70] As the chief had invited us
to his lodge to eat, we thought it proper for one to go. At the lodge
he gave me many particulars which were interesting to us, relative to
the late visit of the Spaniards.
I will attempt to give some memoranda of this expedition, which was
the most important ever carried on from the province of New Mexico,
and in fact the only one directed N. E. (except that mentioned by the
Abbe Raynal[I-71] in his History of the Indies) to the Pawnees--of
which see a more particular account hereafter. In the year 1806 our
affairs with Spain began to wear a very serious aspect, and the troops
of the two governments almost came to actual hostilities on the
frontiers of Texas and the Orleans territory. At this time, when
matters bore every appearance of coming to a crisis, I was fitting out
for my expedition from St. Louis, where some of the Spanish emissaries
in that country transmitted the information to Majar. Merior [_sic_]
and the Spanish council at that place, who immediately forwarded the
information to the then commandant of Nacogdoches, Captain Sebastian
Rodreriques [_sic_] who forwarded it to Colonel [Don Antonio] Cordero,
by whom it was transmitted to [General Don Nimesio Salcedo, at
Chihuahua,] the seat of government. This information was personally
communicated to me, as an instance of the rapid means they possessed
of transmitting information relative to the occurrences transacting on
our frontiers. The expedition was then determined on, and had three
objects in view:
1st. To descend the Red river, in order, if he met our expedition, to
intercept and turn us back; or, should Major Sparks[I-72] and Mr.
[Thomas] Freeman have missed the party from Nacogdoches, under the
command of Captain Viana, to oblige them to return and not penetrate
further into the country, or make them prisoners of war.
2d. To explore and examine all the internal parts of the country from
the frontiers of the province of New Mexico to the Missouri between
the La Platte [sentence unfinished].
3d. To visit the Tetaus, Pawnees republic, Grand Pawnees, Pawnee
Mahaws, and Kans.[I-73] To the head chief of each of those nations the
commanding officer bore flags, a commission, grand medal, and four
mules; and with all of them he had to renew the chains of ancient
amity which was said to have existed between their father, his most
Catholic majesty, and his children the red people.
The commanding officers also bore positive orders to oblige all
parties or persons, in the above-specified countries, either to
retire from them into the acknowledged territories of the United
States, or to make prisoners of them and conduct them into the
province of N. Mexico. Lieutenant Don Facundo Malgares, the officer
selected from the five internal provinces to command this expedition,
was a European (his uncle was one of the royal judges in the kingdom
of New Spain), and had distinguished himself in several long
expeditions against the Apaches and other Indian nations with whom the
Spaniards were at war; added to these circumstances, he was a man of
immense fortune, and generous in its disposal, almost to profusion;
possessed a liberal education, high sense of honor, and a disposition
formed for military enterprise. This officer marched from the province
of Biscay with 100 dragoons of the regular service, and at Santa Fe,
the place where the expedition was fitted out, he was joined by 500 of
the mounted militia of that province, armed after the manner described
by my notes on that subject, and completely equipped with ammunition,
etc., for six months; each man leading with them (by order) two horses
and one mule, the whole number of their beasts was 2,075. They
descended the Red river 233 leagues; met the grand bands of the
Tetaus, and held councils with them; then struck off N. E., and
crossed the country to the Arkansaw, where Lieutenant Malgares left
240 of his men with the lame and tired horses, while he proceeded on
with the rest to the Pawnee republic. Here he was met by the chiefs
and warriors of the Grand Pawnees; held councils with the two nations
and presented them the flags, medals, etc., which were destined for
them. He did not proceed to the execution of his mission with the
Pawnee Mahaws and Kans, as he represented to me, from the poverty of
their horses and the discontent of his own men; but, as I conceive,
from the suspicion and discontent which began to arise between the
Spaniards and the Indians; the former wished to revenge the death of
Villineuve and party, while the latter possessed all the suspicions of
conscious villainy deserving punishment. Malgares took with him all
the traders he found there from our country, some of whom, having
been sent to Natchitoches, were in abject poverty at that place on my
arrival, and applied to me for means to return to St. Louis.
Lieutenant Malgares returned to Santa Fe the ---- of October, when his
militia was disbanded; but he remained in the vicinity of that place
until we were brought in, when he, with dragoons, became our escort to
the seat of government [in Chihuahua].
_Sept. 26th._ Finding our encampment not eligible as to situation, we
moved down on to the prairie hill, about three-fourths of a mile
nearer the village. We sent our interpreter to town to trade for
provisions. About three o'clock in the afternoon 12 Kans arrived at
the village, and informed Baroney that they had come to meet us,
hearing that we were to be at the Pawnees' village. We pitched our
camp upon a beautiful eminence, whence we had a view of the town and
all that was transacting. In the evening Baroney, with the chief, came
to camp to give us the news, and returned together.
_Sept. 27th._ Baroney arrived from the village about one o'clock, with
Characterish, whose commission from the Governor of New Mexico was
dated Santa Fe, June 15th, 1806, and three other chiefs, to all of
whom we gave a dinner. I then made an appropriate present to each,
after which Lieutenant Wilkinson and myself accompanied them to town,
where we remained a few hours, and returned. Appointed to-morrow for
the interview with the Kans and Osage.
_Sunday, Sept. 28th._ Held a council of the Kans and Osage, and made
them smoke of the pipe of peace. Two of the Kans agreed to accompany
us. We received a visit from the chief of the village. Made an
observation on an emersion of one of Jupiter's satellites.
_Sept. 29th._ Held our grand council with the Pawnees, at which were
present not less than 400 warriors, the circumstances of which were
extremely interesting. The notes I took on my grand council held with
the Pawnee nation were seized by the Spanish government, together
with all my speeches to the different nations. But it may be
interesting to observe here, in case they should never be returned,
that the Spaniards had left several of their flags in this village,
one of which was unfurled at the chief's door the day of the grand
council; and that among various demands and charges I gave them was,
that the said flag should be delivered to me, and one of the United
States' flags be received and hoisted in its place. This probably was
carrying the pride of nations a little too far, as there had so lately
been a large force of Spanish cavalry at the village, which had made a
great impression on the minds of the young men, as to their power,
consequence, etc., which my appearance with 20 infantry was by no
means calculated to remove.
After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my discourse, but
were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated the demand for the
flag, adding "that it was impossible for the nation to have two
fathers; that they must either be the children of the Spaniards, or
acknowledge their American father." After a silence of some time an
old man rose, went to the door, took down the Spanish flag, brought it
and laid it at my feet; he then received the American flag, and
elevated it on the staff which had lately borne the standard of his
Catholic Majesty. This gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans,
both of whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American
protection. Perceiving that every face in the council was clouded with
sorrow, as if some great national calamity were about to befall them,
I took up the contested colors, and told them "that as they had shown
themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great American
father, I did not wish to embarrass them with the Spaniards, for it
was the wish of the Americans that their red brethren should remain
peaceably around their own fires, and not embroil themselves in any
disputes between the white people; and that for fear the Spaniards
might return there in force again, I returned them their flag, but
with an injunction that it should never be hoisted again during our
stay." At this there was a general shout of applause, and the charge
was particularly attended to.
_Sept. 30th._ Remained all day at the camp, but sent Baroney to town,
who informed me on his return that the chief appeared to wish to throw
great obstacles in our way. A great disturbance had taken place in the
village, owing to one of the young Pawnees, Frank, who lately came
from the United States, having taken the wife of an Osage and run away
with her. The chief, in whose lodge the Osage put up, was extremely
enraged, considering it a breach of hospitality to a person under his
roof, and threatened to kill Frank if he caught him.
FOOTNOTES:
[I-1] Belle Fontaine or Bellefontaine is the name of the large
cemetery in the environs of St. Louis, where William Clark lies
buried; and probably few persons now living know its proper
geographical connotation. The cemetery is four miles from the Court
House, and ten miles further is the place whose name was given to the
burying-ground on the road thither, after its original designation as
the Rural Cemetery. Belle Fontaine was a place on the south bank of
the river, 14 m. north of St. Louis, in what is now St. Ferdinand
township of St. Louis Co. (Sect. 10, T. 47 N., R. 7 E. of this
county). Before there was any such "place," or locality, Belle
Fontaine was the French name of the creek which falls in there, which
had been called Ferdinand by the Spanish, and which became known to
the English as Cold Water creek, there being a fine large spring under
the bluffs, close to the Missouri. This, however, was washed away by
the encroachment of the river. We find the latter name in Lewis and
Clark, who made the first camp of their expedition on Green isl.,
opposite the mouth of the creek, May 14th, 1804. There was nothing
then at the place that was soon to become forever notable as the spot
where was built the first military post ever established in the newly
acquired territory of Louisiana. Much early history attaches to the
locality, some of which may be here epitomized, mainly on the basis of
Billon's Annals. In 1768, when St. Louis was but begun, Captain Rios
arrived with 25 soldiers under orders from Count Ulloa to establish
Spanish authority in the region where things were at a standstill, if
not in distraction. Rios was persona non grata in the infant St.
Louis; he withdrew, and selected Belle Fontaine as a suitable location
for a post. Late in 1768 he there built a fort which he called Fort
Prince Charles in honor of the son of his king and heir apparent to
the Spanish throne. In 1769 Rios left with his men; in 1770 Piernas
came. The Spanish presidio was soon turned into a commercial factory
or trading-post. On Sept. 10th, 1797, Governor Zenon Trudeau granted
to Hezekiah Lord a concession of 1,000 arpents of land on Belle
Fontaine or Cold Water cr.; and on the site of the former Spanish fort
Lord built a house and mill. He died in 1799; his estate was sold in
partition in 1803, when 600 arpents were bought by William Massey. In
1805, General James Wilkinson selected the place for a military
establishment, and United States troops were first cantoned in
temporary quarters during the winter of 1805-6. This was the original
Cantonment Belle Fontaine. On April 20th, 1806, General Wilkinson
purchased from Massey, on behalf of the United States, five acres of
ground with the improvements, called Belle Fontaine, with the use for
five years of the ground on which had been located the cantonment, and
upon these five acres established a permanent post. In July, 1806, he
purchased the rest of the tract of 500 arpents, which was conveyed to
the United States in Mar., 1809. Belle Fontaine was really the parent
of Jefferson Barracks; for, after the establishment of Forts Atkinson,
Snelling, and others on the Missouri and Mississippi frontiers, it
lost its importance from a military point of view, and was abandoned
for the site of the present Jefferson Barracks. This in 1825; on July
4th of which year Colonel Talbot Chambers, with four companies of the
1st United States Infantry, evacuated Belle Fontaine and proceeded to
the new site which had been selected, though the place remained for
some ten years in charge of a military storekeeper, Major John
Whistler. General Lewis Cass, Secretary of War under Van Buren,
ordered it to be sold at public auction in 1836. It was bought by
Jamison Samuel, Dunham Spalding, H. N. Davis, and E. L. Langham, who
laid out a paper town that never came to anything. Agriculture finally
reclaimed Belle Fontaine after the military occupancy; it was bought
for a farm by the late Dr. David C. Tandy of St. Louis, whose son,
Robert E. Tandy, now or lately did live there. The old road can still
be traced in part over ground where it ran more than a century ago.
[I-2] The roster of the party, with some of the most notable
particulars, is as follows:
COMMISSIONED OFFICERS (2).
1. Captain Zebulon M. Pike. Escorted to Mexico from his post on the
Rio Conejos, with six privates, by Spanish dragoons, Feb. 26th, 1807.
His men, excepting one left with Jackson, were Brown, Carter, Gorden,
Menaugh, Mountjoy, Roy, and Stoute.
2. Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson. Detached to descend the Arkansaw
with five men, from camp near Great Bend, Aug. 28th, 1806.
NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS (3).
1. Sergeant Joseph Ballenger. Went with Wilkinson.
2. Sergeant William E. Meek. Sent from Rio Conejos to relief of
abandoned men, Feb. 19th, 1807.
3. Corporal Jeremiah R. Jackson. Left in charge of post on Rio
Conejos, with Carter, Feb. 26th, 1807, to await return of Meek and
Miller with Vasquez, Smith, Sparks, and Dougherty.
PRIVATES (16).
1. John Boley. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.
2. Samuel Bradley. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.
3. John Brown. Left with Jackson on Rio Conejos, Feb. 26th, 1807.
4. Jacob Carter. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.
5. Thomas Dougherty. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains with
frozen feet, Jan. 22d, 1807.
6. William Gorden. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.
7. Solomon Huddleston. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.
8. Henry Kennerman. Deserted July 19th, 1806.
9. Hugh Menaugh. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains, Jan. 27th,
1807; recovered on Rio Conejos, Feb. 18th, 1807; went with Pike, Feb.
26th, 1807.
10. Theodore Miller. Went with Meek to relief of abandoned men, Feb.
19th, 1807.
11. John Mountjoy. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.
12. Alexander Roy. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.
13. Patrick Smith. Left with Vasquez on the Arkansaw at site of
present Cañon City, Jan. 14th, 1807.
14. John Sparks. Abandoned in Sangre de Cristo mountains with frozen
feet, Jan. 22d, 1807.
15. Freegift Stoute. Went with Pike, Feb. 26th, 1807.
16. John Wilson. Went with Wilkinson, Aug. 28th, 1806.
CIVILIANS (2).
1. Dr. John H. Robinson, volunteer surgeon. Left Pike on the Rio
Conejos to proceed to Santa Fé alone, Feb. 7th, 1807.
2. Interpreter A. F. Baronet Vasquez. Left with Smith on the Arkansaw,
at site of present Cañon City, Jan. 14th, 1807.
Of these persons--
(1) Lieutenant Wilkinson, Sergeant Ballenger, and Privates Boley,
Bradley, Huddleston, and Wilson descended the Arkansaw and reached New
Orleans in February, 1807.
(2) Private Kennerman deserted.
(3) Dr. Robinson left Captain Pike at the post on Conejos r., and went
to Mexico on his own account.
(4) Captain Pike, Sergeant Meek, Corporal Jackson, Privates Brown,
Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith,
Sparks, Stoute, and Interpreter Vasquez were escorted in separated
parties to Mexico by Spanish dragoons. Of whom--
(5) Captain Pike, Privates Brown, Gorden, Menaugh, Roy, and Stoute
were escorted back to the United States, and reached Nachitoches on or
about July 1st, 1807; while--