UP THE PARANA.
Preparations for an experimental trip up the Parana.—Captain
Sullivan’s descent of the river at a terrific pace.—Island
of Martin Garcia.—Note on the confluents of the Rio Plata.—A
Scotch experimental philosopher in Corrientes.—Alluvial
deposits at the delta of the Parana.—Signs of progress in
the interior.—An American pioneer of civilization.—The
steamer aground, and fired upon.—Moonlight on the river
and the woods.—Geographical note on the Parana and the Rio
Plata.—Obligado and San Nicolas.—Mr. Mackinnon’s description of
the scenery.—Arrival at Rosario.—Multifarious applications of
hides and horns.—Descent of the river, and arrival at Martin
Garcia.—Corrientes and the guachos.—Military system of the
country.—Its evil effects on the morals and industry of the
people.—Grazing capabilities of Corrientes.—Facilities and
prospects for commerce.—Interest of the Platine provinces in
the opening of the river to foreign trade.—Difficulties of the
navigation, and a word about the Uruguay.
The important light in which England, and, yet more especially, those
portions of England to whose mercantile wants the company I represented
administer, regarded the opening of the great confluents of the Plate,
particularly those leading to the famed fairyland of Paraguay, so long
guarded by the wondrous Ogre, Francia, naturally rendered me anxious
to follow, for however trifling a distance, in the wake the French and
British ministers had so lately pursued towards the capital of that
mystic country which, after almost half a century’s total isolation from
the rest of the world, they have brought into commercial relationship
with Europe. Accordingly, though not contemplating anything of the kind
on leaving Liverpool, I gladly availed myself of certain favourable
circumstances that turned up somewhat unexpectedly, to make a short
experimental trip up the Parana, as far as the towns of San Nicolas and
Rosario, although for so doing time was very short, as the Argentina
had to be back at Monte Video to meet the Brazileira, expected out from
Liverpool, _viâ_ Rio Janeiro, on the 28th or 29th of September. The
commanders of H.M. ships Vixen and Locust gave us valuable information,
and kindly recommended an experienced pilot, whom I engaged. The British
Vice-consul at Buenos Ayres, Mr. Parish—a name of long-recognized Anglo
influence in those regions, as the mention of his relative, the veteran
Sir Woodbine, and of _his_ relatives, Messrs. Parish Robinson, the
authors of the delightful ‘Letters from Paraguay,’ will sufficiently
vouch—also obliged us with the loan of some admirable charts published
under sanction of the Admiralty, from surveys made by Captain Sullivan of
H.M. ship Philomel, and these, so far as our observation extended, proved
to be wonderfully correct.[96] Of course, in an extensive navigation of
this kind, with shifting sands, there will be occasionally variations
of depth of water, but nothing to alter the general character of the
survey, or the correctness of the gallant officer’s explorations and
soundings. We left Buenos Ayres at 1 p.m. on the 21st, with a pleasant
party on board, and steamed across to Martin Garcia, where the navigation
becomes difficult, and the channel very narrow. This rather large island,
composed of granite rocks with a good elevation, and entirely commanding
the channel of the great rivers, has long been a disputed point among
the belligerents in the Plate, and among the diplomatists on paper,
for only lately has the free navigation of the rivers been recognized;
but a good deal of ill-feeling still exists with reference to its
possession, belonging, as it does, ostensibly to Buenos Ayres, though it
is stated that, if everyone had their own, it is really the property of
an individual from whom it was forcibly taken, on the principle so very
extensively practised in this quarter of the globe, that might gives
right, and that there is nothing wrong but the want of means to defend
it. One thing is certain, that whoever holds Martin Garcia will control
the entrance to and exit from the whole stream above it;[97] for, as the
only navigable channel runs close past it, there is no possible means
of escaping the guns of its batteries. Thus, it is obvious, that the
future progress of commerce up these immense rivers, as also, in a very
great degree, the well-being of the countries watered by them, is really
dependent on the way in which this important point is disposed of.
And here it is impossible to look back on the policy pursued by former
rulers of Buenos Ayres without the deepest regret that the navigation
of such noble rivers, and the development of so fine a country, should
have been subjected to such miserable trammels, or their destinies
been placed in hands so unworthy of the bounties that Providence had
showered upon them. There cannot be a doubt, that if a liberal-minded,
common-sense view of things had been taken by the rulers of the city and
province, after their emancipation from Spain, at this moment fleets of
steamers would be navigating the rivers, and a countless population be
settled in the upper countries watered by them. It would be, in fact, the
valley of a southern Mississippi, vying with its northern counterpart in
everything that could contribute to the prosperity and grandeur of an
immense continent. Even comparatively short as the time has been since
the destinies of this part of South America were under native control,
it is sufficient to have turned a barren waste into a land teeming with
riches and abundance—a fact indisputable, and which must be evident to
the most cursory observer. But, alas! the gifts of Providence have
been bestowed in vain: the ‘dog in the manger’ principle has been
beautifully illustrated; and, unless a stronger power and a stronger
arm than that which exists in the country be brought to bear, the long
night of Egyptian darkness may otherwise even still prevail. Amongst the
numerous conflicting statements and opinions, as to what policy shall be
carried out, it is difficult to ascertain who are really the stop-gaps
in a work of this kind. There can be no question that the barbarous
policy of Rosas was virtually to close the rivers; and the wonder is,
that he did not effectually destroy the entrances, which he might easily
have done by sinking vessels laden with stone in the channel off Martin
Garcia. His object, as everyone knows, was to reduce the upper provinces
to a state of complete dependence on the city, towards which end the
equally barbarous but much more romantic, and, perhaps, more justifiable,
despotism of Dr. Francia materially aided. Latterly, a feeling seems to
be gaining ground in the provinces, that the navigation of their rivers
and the promotion of immigration, are objects of importance; and, once
this is backed by free and uncontrolled navigation, things will advance
rapidly. The late mission of Sir Charles Hotham and the Chevalier St.
George is one of the means to such end; and their treaty with Paraguay
must, sooner or later, bring forth its fruits, especially if a real
cession of Martin Garcia forms part of the arrangements stipulated.
Considerable jealousy still exists on this point; but there are the
interests of a mighty continent and of civilized Europe against the
petty pride of a people who have not yet learned even to govern or take
care of themselves; and desperate diseases require strong remedies. In
the hands of nautical parties, with the guarantee of the most powerful
nations of Europe and America, Martin Garcia would soon be rendered the
nucleus of commerce extending from thence to the shores of the Pacific;
the channels and entrances would be properly buoyed and lighted under
some equitable tax on shipping, and countless fleets would soon be
passing backwards and forwards. Unless something of this kind is done,
local dissensions between provinces will always mar the general good.
Moreover, a considerable outlay of money is absolutely required to render
the navigation safe and practical; and where is that to come from, except
through the now almost sole machinery of all revenue in these regions—the
customs, which foreign shipping, and abundance of it, can alone furnish
to the smallest respectable amount?
One of the most remarkable pioneers of the present day, in connection
with the development of the river navigation and of the upper provinces,
is an American citizen, Mr. Hopkins, who, with all the characteristic
ardour and discerning forethought of his country, in seizing upon ‘fresh
fields and pastures new,’ wherever the spirit of commerce is likely
to find the smallest resting-place for the sole of its foot, had just
left Buenos Ayres for Assumption, in a steamer, with various kinds of
machinery on board for establishing manufactories in the Paraguayan
metropolis. One of these is for the preparation of cigars for the
European and North American markets, on the plan pursued at the Havannah.
There are not less than fourteen or fifteen different descriptions of
tobacco grown in Paraguay, each of its kind pronounced by connoisseurs,
to whom samples have been submitted in England, to be superior to
corresponding qualities produced elsewhere, whether for the purposes
of snuff or smoking. On the score of its tobacco alone, therefore, the
opening of intercourse with Paraguay is calculated to prove a boon to
many a used-up Sybarite, pining dyspeptically for a new pleasure. Mr.
Hopkins also, I understand, contemplates improvements in the preparation
of the famous Paraguay tea, maté, that will, if possible, enhance its
popularity throughout South America, where there is scarcely a meal in
a house with the least pretentions to respectability or refinement in
which the beverage is not introduced; and elegance and adroitness in
sipping it, through a tube or reed, something after the fashion adopted
in the Yankee beverage, known as sherry-cobbler, affords scarcely less
opportunity at a _tertullia_, or evening party, for the display of
breeding than does the use of the fan in Spain. The taste of maté is not
at all dissimilar to that of green tea, but without the acrid flavour
of the Chinese infusion; and it is not improbable that Mr. Hopkins may
render it a very acceptable addition to our drinks in this country; for
it would, at least, form an agreeable variety to the somewhat limited
range of compounds now in vogue among our temperance preachers and
practitioners. Mr. Hopkins is the head of an enterprising and affluent
joint-stock company, formed some few years ago in the States, who have
already expended considerable funds in the prosecution of South American
enterprise of this nature, undeterred by the wreck of a fine vessel they
were bringing out, called ‘El Paraguay,’ which was condemned and sold
at Maranham. He is one of those rare, indomitable spirits who often
revolutionize countries without benefiting themselves; and this I should
much fear, and deeply deplore, would be his case now, unless, indeed,
after having been so long buffeted by the billows of mishap, he now at
length ride on the tide of regenerate Paraguay, and ‘share the triumph
and partake the gale’ of its prosperity, which is seemingly soon to come.
He has spent many years in that extraordinary country;[98] been four
times backwards and forwards; travelled on horseback some 36,000 miles!
and his whole life, in short, has been a romance, as wonderful in reality
among real inhabitants of an almost unknown planet, as was the apocryphal
existence of the imaginative Mr. Herman Melville among his ideal Omoos
and phantasmagoric Typees of the Marquesas and the South Sea Islands.
He is a great favourite of the present Governor of Paraguay, M. Lopez;
and he will confer immense benefit on mankind if he succeeds in still
further developing those commercial and philanthropic ideas of which
the mind of the governor has shown itself so creditably susceptible, by
despatching to Europe his two sons, and a large suite, to reciprocate
the overtures towards mercantile cordiality proffered by Lord Malmesbury
and the imperial government of France [see chapter on Paraguay]. If any
person can carry such highly desirable points as we have adverted to,
Mr. Hopkins appears the man to complete, by personal interposition,
and personal explanation of the workings of the commercial system in
commercial countries, those purposes that were intended by the framers of
the Malmesbury treaty, and in the carrying out of which North America has
nearly as great an interest as France, or England itself. At all events,
we must hope for the best. But, meanwhile, it is time that we proceed
with our trip to Rosario.
As we approached Martin Garcia, we saw near it two or three small vessels
at anchor, and there appeared to be a roughly-built fort on shore, where
the Argentine flag was flying, in salutation of which we hoisted our
colours. We thought we heard the report of a musket or two on land, but
supposed it was the mere shooting of some idlers for amusement, and
so steamed quickly past; when, to our great astonishment, a ball came
whistling over us from a small schooner at anchor under the island,
followed by a second, that fell short. We were in the narrowest part of
the channel, impossible to bring to, or even stop with safety; and, owing
to the confusion caused by this unexpected salute, the steamer grounded
on a spit, from which we soon backed her off, and continued our route,
being anxious to get into the mouth of the river before sunset, now fast
approaching. When the second shot was fired we immediately hoisted the
Argentine flag, and these punctilious representatives of ‘confederated
dignity’ did not fire again, and we were soon out of their reach if they
were disposed for the exaction of any further deference beyond what
we had already paid. An hour brought us to what is called the Boca de
Guasa, one of the chief entrances to the great river, up which we were
soon steaming, guided by the banks, wooded nearly the whole distance.
Before midnight a thick fog came on, which compelled us to drop anchor
until about 2 P.M., when we resumed our silent course, aided by a late
moon, the effect of which, as seen on this waste of waters, surpassed
anything I remember to have experienced elsewhere; for the solitude of
river navigation differs from the loneliness of ocean sailing, inasmuch
as in the former case you _feel_ there is land-life around you, and
where you feel that it is _not_, as in this instance, the depression is
correspondingly great. In traversing the ocean, however still, there is
always a sense of animation and vivacity, and the consciousness that you
are in the pathway of intercommunication with your kind. But in pursuing
a vast river of this sort, through a country superabounding in every
element calculated to sustain the densest population on the face of the
globe, and knowing all the while that population there is almost none,
you are bowed down by a conviction of the insignificance of man’s efforts
to effect any radical change in nature; for the European voyager here is
deprived of the buoyant pride and hopeful expectancy that sustain the
explorer of hitherto undiscovered seas or countries; and, gloomily, but
naturally, his mind reverts to the early navigators of these rivers—their
mighty achievements, and the little results that had followed them—a
lapse of four centuries leaving things here pretty much as they were
when the first European flag floated upon this now placid and majestic
stream.[99]
These are sentiments, however, which the reader may naturally think
are not very pertinent to a purpose like the present, and not exactly
in keeping with an occasion expressly connected with the commercial
opening-up of those streams by the instrumentality of English enterprise,
in a form so indicative of progress as steam. So, too, thought the
writer, after a moment’s rumination of the ‘cud of sweet and bitter
fancy;’ for he reflected that these magnificent regions, first discovered
by Cabot—English, born and bred, though of Venetian parentage—had
stagnated, not under the rule of the countrymen of that ‘good olde
and famuse man,’ but under the rule of those in whose service he had
found out a river which might, indeed, have proved worthy of the name
the avaricious Spaniards had bestowed upon it—La Plata, the River of
Silver—had they been imbued with a particle of the spirit which has
converted ‘icy Labrador,’ the first territory discovered by the same
glorious adventurer, into a comparatively industrial paradise. I augured,
I hope with no unjustifiable audacity, that now the descendants of Cabot
and of his companions had been brought into direct relationship with the
people of the Parana, something would be done to render that ‘Mississippi
of the South’ not altogether unworthy of some slight social and political
comparison with the Northern ‘Father of Waters’ before many more
generations should roll by; and I deemed it a not altogether impossible
contingency that the younger members of our crew might live to cast
anchor in certain riverine ports hereabouts, amid a forest of masts and
funnels belonging to all the maritime states in the world, not one of
which countries but may find produce of some kind or other profitably
suitable to its markets on these fertile shores.
[Illustration: SAN NICOLAS DE LOS ARROYOS, ON THE PARANA.]
The turns and windings of the Parana, all along the portion now being
passed over, and indeed nearly throughout its entire length, are
numerous, without at all impeding the navigation, being, in many parts,
sufficiently wide and imposing to justify its native appellation of
Parana Guazú, or Sea River. After daylight, fog and mist again enveloped
us, but we were enabled to continue our course, guided by trees,
profusely growing, and which, on the low grounds, are chiefly of the
willow species. We passed Obligado, on whose high bank Rosas erected
those batteries to dispute the passage of the convoy under protection of
the French and English vessels of war, which were, as we have seen, of so
very little avail. The scenery around Obligado is pretty, and was more so
as we proceeded—occasional lofty banks covered with verdure—estançias,
and cattle grazing about. This interest was heightened as we approached
San Nicolas,[100] which is one of the first towns of consequence, situate
on a shelving bank, where a troop of Argentine cavalry were bivouacked;
and as they came galloping down to the water’s edge, their gay-coloured
dresses, scarlet ponchos, and glittering equipments reflected against
the bright green grass, the effect was highly picturesque and animated.
Here we landed, took in a small quantity of fire-wood on trial, and
went to call on the Juiz da Paz, and other authorities. I had a ramble
over the town, which is _intended_ to be large: streets laid out in
the usual Spanish right-angled triangle mode, but the sites of future
mansions, castles in the air, veritable _casas en Espagna_, dotted with
only unfinished straggling houses here and there, with dozens of what
looked like Irish cabins stretching around, the Hibernian and Hispaniolan
identity being here developed as strongly as any member of the Celtic
Antiquarian Society can desire. The solitary church of this city, as
the local hidalgos insist on designating the place, has been almost
destroyed by an explosion of gunpowder, which did great mischief to every
building but the house itself where the catastrophe originated. A Buenos
Ayrean brig and steamer of war were at anchor here, from the commanders
of whom we received a degree of attention and civility that altogether
obliterated any resentful reminiscence which our preceding rough
reception might have awakened. The commander of the steamer, Muratore,
spoke English well, and expressed himself very indignant at the treatment
we had experienced at Martin Garcia, which, he said, they were wholly
unwarranted in practising; adding, that he would report such conduct to
the chief of the naval forces at head quarters. There is very deep water
here, from ten to twelve fathoms, with muddy bottom, and it took us half
an hour to get up our anchor, after which we steamed on towards Rosario,
through a country increasing in cultivation and teeming in verdure every
mile we advanced; and it was not difficult to realize the accuracy of
Mr. Mackinnon’s description of the topography hereabouts, in the annexed
passage, which appears to me to be fully deserving of the prominence of
conspicuous type:
[Illustration: CORRIENTES ON THE PARANA.]
‘Our progress this day was remarkable for the beautiful scenery on the
side of the Banda Oriental. The view was similar to that which is seen
when sailing from Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, to Cowes, (without the high
land,) and about the same width of water. In the afternoon, we entered a
labyrinth of islands, which contracted the channel considerably. As we
advanced, the scenery was very much varied; sometimes between islands
so close together, that we shot birds and animals on each shore. These
islands are plentifully interspersed with the date palm, which had a
most beautiful appearance; and, when we drew out near the main land, the
stream widened considerably. We passed either bold, bluff barrancas, over
which nothing was visible, and whence we might easily have been picked
off by musketry; or a gently sloping green pasture down to the river’s
margin, dotted with horned cattle, horses, and sometimes ostriches and
deer. Clumps of trees were interspersed, and beautifully grouped by
the hand of Nature. Sometimes, for a short distance, a dense forest of
large timber-trees impeded the view. A high sand-bank then intervened,
with a belt (about fifty yards broad) of trees and shrubs, where I often
stopped to rest the men, and then surveyed the country, which was mainly
characterized by undulating pasture land, interspersed with coppices and
clumps of trees, stretching inland as far as the eye could reach, and
completely covered by animal life in great variety, like a very extensive
and well-kept park in England. The only thing wanting to make this the
most enchanting scene in the world, was the presence of civilized man;
but, alas! the brute creation alone enjoyed the terrestrial paradise. As
we advanced, we every now and then perceived deer come down fearlessly to
drink. Pheasants walked quietly along the banks, or sat in the trees in
fancied security, five and six, and even more together. The partridges,
both large and small, constantly rose close to the boat; whilst numerous
carpinchas sat quietly on their haunches, like Brobdignag brown
guinea-pigs, staring at us with the most perfect unconcern. Here was a
situation for a sportsman!’
[Illustration: ROSARIO—ON THE PARANA.]
[Illustration: CARETAS DE VIAGE—TRAVELLING WAGGONS.]
Extensive farms and cattle-grazing districts were seen along the heights,
and we were told that a large number of wealthy landowners resided
between San Nicolas and Rosario. The opposite bank of the river (Entre
Rios) is low and swampy, but well lined with trees. As the sun was
setting in splendid tranquillity, we came to anchor off Rosario de Santa
Fé, and found it a large, well constructed town, with a good cathedral,
whose unique-looking towers were visible many miles distant, in an
atmosphere that is singularly translucent beyond the immediate vicinage
of the river, which is sometimes obscured by fogs and haze, though we
could not learn that any ill effects to human health were experienced
in consequence; and certainly the vegetation and herbage appear at
once luxuriant and delicate. The cathedral is in a large square,
entirely built up, and streets branch from it at right angles, many
extensive, substantial looking houses being now in course of erection,
and, altogether, an appearance of prosperous activity, as refreshing
as unanticipated, pervades the whole place. The town contains about
7,000 inhabitants, and is the great rendezvous for the upper provinces,
numerous huge, unwieldy but most capacious waggons being collected
about, ready for their laborious service, which they perform chiefly by
means of leather. However pertinent the phrase ‘nothing like leather’
may be elsewhere, here it is of universal and unerring applicability.
Streets and roads are repaired with heads and horns of cows and horses. A
horse’s or cow’s head serves for a stool, or a chair, or a pillow, just
as the case may be;[101] but a horse or cow-hide serves for purposes
innumerable out of doors, and in all matters of vehicular concernment
are inestimable; for where ropes or harness would be but as pack-thread,
a slip of raw hide, drying after it has been attached, binds like links
of adamant, if any such linking there be. The supply, of course, is
inexhaustible; and the dexterity with which a strip of skin, of any
dimensions, is fastened to a waggon, or to luggage upon a waggon, and
thence coupled, when needful, to the horses, is extraordinary. The only
thing that occurred to awaken unpleasant feelings during our stay at
Rosario, was the general presence of that ill-omened symbol of sanguinary
anarchy and benumbing oppression, the red badge, which unaccountably
continues to be exhibited long after the downfall of him whose supremacy
it but too significantly testified, though now used by the partizans of
Urquiza. Until such emblems be finally discarded, it is in vain to look
for any real amalgamation of the provinces, let parchment treaties and
ratifications be multiplied as numerously as they may. San Nicolas is
the last Buenos Ayrean frontier town, Rosario being in the possession
of Urquiza, who was residing not far from it, but living, at that time,
very quietly. Advancing upwards between these two places against the
stream, we had a fine view of the extensive plains branching from Rosario
eastward; there seemed to be abundance of sheep and cattle grazing, and
plenty of grass and clover, together with a crop of barley that might
have been dressed with guano, and nurtured under the special supervision
of Mr. Mechi himself, with all the patent contrivances of Tiptree Farm
tripled three times over. Would that there were a myriad of Mechis
settled down here! What a glorious country would it be under a better
state of even political organization, with a soil prolific, yet not rank,
and a climate the most delicious that could be imagined at this season
of the year; a positive tonic for the languid in every breath of it, and
yet not enfeebling to the robust. From Rosario can be seen the convent
of San Lourenço, one of the gigantic establishments of the Jesuits; and
at this point occurred the famous encounter with the convoy, under care
of Captains Hotham and Thrèhouart, on their return from Paraguay, after
forcing the passage of the river, when Rosas erected batteries, and had
a huge chain placed across the river, that was soon destroyed by our
gallant tars, as we shall see in some detail when we speak of Sir C.
Hotham in the chapter on Paraguay.[102]
After spending the night at Rosario, and collecting as much wood
together as could be cut by 1 P.M. next day, we got under weigh on our
return, with the cordial good wishes of the inhabitants, who had shown
us every possible attention, and taking several passengers, who availed
themselves of the opportunity to make an easy visit to Buenos Ayres. As
a proof of the utility of steam navigation in bringing people together,
softening prejudices, and creating a more kindly feeling, I may mention
that our passengers were of all shades of party, some ready, under other
circumstance, to draw a sword or a trigger on each other; but here they
were hale fellows well met, and played together at cards, or conversed,
with not the slightest appearance of ill feeling. A steamer is a great
leveller of prejudices and party distinctions.
We soon reached San Nicolas, and brought up for some hours, augmenting
our number of passengers and supply of wood, as we found our coals
getting short; got under weigh again at 3 A.M., steaming fast down with
the current, which runs two and three knots at this season of the year.
Saw the convent of San Pedro, another remarkable establishment of the
Jesuits, situated on rising ground, and where a branch of the main river
runs; towards afternoon approached the Boca, or entrance of the river,
and brought up to get more wood, which we fortunately did from a vessel
at anchor there, every gentleman on board taking off his coat, and
working like a common peon. Again we got under weigh and approached our
over-officious official friends at Martin Garcia, where we determined to
bring up for the night, and ask for an explanation of what had occurred
at that most disputatious and pugnacious point before. On rowing towards
the schooner, those on board hailed us to go on shore to the commandant,
an injunction which we managed, after some difficulty in groping our way
through the rocky beach, to fulfil. The commandant said he had no wish
to obstruct our passage, nor had he given orders to fire at us; so we
returned on board, satisfied that the salute would not be repeated. So
splendid a night I have rarely seen; not a breath of air, and yet cool
and pleasant; the stars reflected in the waters like a double firmament,
the slight motion causing one portion to oscillate a little, the other
firmament remaining motionless. Morning broke equally glorious, though a
heavy dew had fallen, and the air was positively cold. Finally, steamed
across to the bank, and disembarked passengers at 9:30 A.M., under five
days; had we not been detained by want of fuel it would have occupied
only four days; 21½ hours time up steaming, and 20 hours down.
To show the comparative ignorance as to this boundless country, it may be
mentioned that several of our passengers, who had resided 20 and 30 years
at Buenos Ayres, had never before been up the rivers: others, compelled
to do so, had occupied weeks in doing what we did in a few days; and,
altogether, great satisfaction was felt at this practical result of
steaming, the Argentina, it is true, being the fastest steamer that had
ever appeared on the waters of La Plata; and hence one reason why her
loss has since been mourned over as a national bereavement, which it
undoubtedly was, though perhaps the temporary presence in these waters of
the Menai paddle-wheel will prove some compensation till a more imposing
craft shall permanently take the place of that very excellent vessel.
My practical acquaintance with this river navigation being thus only
limited in extent, I was unable to gratify my curiosity by exploring
it further up, where the scenery, according to all testimony, is
singularly fine; and, approaching Paraguay, the country becomes rich
and fertile, and picturesque in a high degree. Beyond Rosario, the
distance to the city of Assumption is about 700 miles, 1,000 miles being
the entire reported distance from Buenos Ayres, and the navigation
becomes more difficult. Still, the fact of the ‘Alecto’ steamer having
reached Corrientes,[103] and the ‘Locust’ Assumption, proves that it is
practicable enough for vessels of small draught of water. H.M.S. ‘Vixen’
has also been much up this river, and the ‘Fanny’ steamer, taking up the
American expedition already alluded to, would not draw less than from
nine to ten feet, whilst our little steamer did not draw seven feet, with
her coals on board, nor was her great length any difficulty in turning
angles of the river. There is no doubt that a class of steamers could be
built that would make the passage to Assumption in a few days; and it is
said that General Lopez, the Paraguayan Plenipotentiary to England and
France, has already ordered two for the service, which augurs well for
his desire to cultivate external relations.
Of the ‘Uruguay’ I know nothing but from hearsay and information: that it
is a noble stream, much wider and more easily navigated than the Parana,
with the same boundless extent of uncultivated country. We saw the
entrance to it on the right from the Boca of the Parana, which makes a
sharp angle. The main difficulty in connection with this river navigation
are the channels about Martin Garcia, which are tortuous and very narrow
in some places. It appears, indeed, to be a deep gulley, formed by the
mass of waters pressing their way through the miles of sand and mud lying
across the main entrance, much of it almost dry at the surface; and until
these channels are properly buoyed and lighted, even steamers will be
subject to delay and damage, as the most experienced pilot can scarcely
rely on his eye or bearing in such an expanse of water.
PARAGUAY.