CHAPTER XXV.

[Note: The Table of Contents and the list of illustrations were added

by the transcriber.]

LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE OF POPULAR LITERATURE AND SCIENCE

March, 1876.

Vol. XVII, No. 99.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ILLUSTRATIONS

THE CENTURY—ITS FRUITS AND ITS FESTIVAL.

III.--PAST EXPOSITIONS.

SKETCHES OF INDIA.

III.

LIFE-SAVING STATIONS by REBECCA HARDING DAVIS.

THE EUTAW FLAG.

II.

III.

CONVENT LIFE AND WORK by LADY BLANCHE MURPHY.

THE ATONEMENT OF LEAM DUNDAS.

BY MRS. E. LYNN LINTON, AUTHOR OF "PATRICIA KEMBALL."

CHAPTER XXV. SMALL CAUSES.

CHAPTER XXVI. THE GREEN YULE.

CHAPTER XXVII. IN THE BALANCE.

CHAPTER XXVIII. ONLY A DREAM.

LOVE'S SEPULCHRE by KATE HILLARD.

LETTERS FROM SOUTH AFRICA by LADY BARKER.

A SYLVAN SEARCH by MARY B. DODGE.

THE SONGS OF MIRZA-SCHAFFY by AUBER FORESTIER.

TO CHARLOTTE CUSHMAN by SIDNEY LANIER.

CHARLES KINGSLEY: A REMINISCENCE by ELLIS YARNALL.

OUR MONTHLY GOSSIP.

A WOMAN'S OPINION OF PARIS AND THE PARISIANS by L.H.H.

THE COLLEGIO ROMANO by T.A.T.

TRADES UNIONISM IN ITS INFANCY.

MORAL TRAINING IN PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

THE EARLIEST PRINTED BOOKS by M.H.

FLOWERS VS. FLIES.

LITERATURE OF THE DAY.

Books Received.

ILLUSTRATIONS

THE GREAT ANNUAL FAIR AT NIZHNEE-NOVGOROD.

CRYSTAL PALACE--LONDON EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1851.

INTERIOR VIEW OF THE TRANSEPT OF CRYSTAL PALACE.

NEW YORK EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1853.

CORK EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1853.

DUBLIN EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1853.

MUNICH EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1854.

MANCHESTER EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1857.

FLORENCE EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1861

PARIS EXPOSITION BUILDING AND GROUNDS, 1867.

GRAND VESTIBULE OF THE PARIS EXPOSITION BUILDING, 1867.

VIENNA EXPOSITION BUILDING AND GROUNDS, 1873.

ROTUNDA OF THE VIENNA EXPOSITION BUILDING, 1873.

MUSSULMAN WOMAN OF BHOPAL.

A NAUTCH-GIRL (OR BAYADÈRE) OF ULWUR.

A NAUTCHNI (OR BAYADÈRE) OF BARODA.

THE CATHACKS (OR DANCING MEN) OF BHOPAL.

BURIAL PLACE OF THE RAJAHS OF JHANSI.

TOMB OF ALLUM SAYED.

PEASANTS OF THE DOUAB.

HINDU BANKERS OF DELHI.

THE GRAND HALL OF THE DEWANI KHAS IN THE PALACE OF DELHI.

THE JAMMAH MASJID AT DELHI.

LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE

OF

_POPULAR LITERATURE AND SCIENCE._

MARCH, 1876.

Vol. XVII, No. 99.

THE CENTURY--ITS FRUITS AND ITS FESTIVAL.

III.--PAST EXPOSITIONS.

[Illustration: THE GREAT ANNUAL FAIR AT NIZHNEE-NOVGOROD.]

We have presented a feeble sketch of a century that stands out from

its fellows, not as a mere continuation, or even intensification, of

them--a hundred annual circuits of the earth in its orbit as little

distinguished by intellectual or material achievement as those

repetitions of the old beaten track through space are by astronomical

incident--but as an epoch _sui generis_, a century _d'elite_, picked

out from the long ranks of time for special service, charged by

Fate with an extraordinary duty, and decorated for its successful

performance. Those of its historic comrades even partially so honored

are few indeed. They will not make a platoon--scarce a corporal's

guard. We should seek them, for instance, in the Periclean age,

when eternal beauty, and something very like eternal truth, gained

a habitation upon earth through the chisel and the pen; in the first

years of the Roman empire, when the whole temperate zone west of China

found itself politically and socially a unit, at rest but for the

labors of peace; and in the sixteenth century, when the area fit for

the support of man was suddenly doubled, when the nominal value of his

possessions was additionally doubled by the mines of Mexico and

Peru, and when his mental implements were in a far greater proportion

multiplied by the press.

[Illustration: CRYSTAL PALACE--LONDON EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1851.]

The last of these periods comes nearest to our standard. The first had

undying brilliance in certain fields, but the scope of its influence

was geographically narrow, and its excessively active thought was not

what we are wont to consider practically productive, its conquests in

the domain of physical science being but slender. The second was in no

sense originative, mankind being occupied, quietly and industriously,

in making themselves comfortable in the pleasant hush after the

secular rattle of spear and shield. The third was certainly full of

results in art, science and the diffusion of intelligence through the

upper and middle strata of society. It might well have celebrated the

first centennial of the discovery of printing or of the discovery of

America by assembling the fresh triumphs of European art, so wonderful

to us in their decay, with the still more novel productions of

Portuguese India and Spanish America. But the length of sea--voyages

prosecuted in small vessels with imperfect knowledge of winds and

currents, and the difficulties of land-transportation when roads

were almost unknown, would have restricted the display to meagre

proportions, particularly had Vienna been the site selected. Few

visitors could have attended from distant countries, and the masses of

the vicinage could only have stared. The idea, indeed, of getting up

an exhibition to be chiefly supported by the intelligent curiosity of

the bulk of the people would not have been apt to occur to any one.

The political and educational condition of these was at the end of the

century much what it had been at the beginning. Labor and the laborer

had gained little.

The weapon-show, depicted in _Old Mortality_, and the market-fair, as

vivid in the _Vicar of Wakefield_, exemplify the expositions of

those days. To them were added a variety of church festivals, or

"functions," still a great feature of the life of Catholic countries.

Trade and frolic divided these among themselves in infinite gradation

of respective share, now the ell-wand, and now the quarter-staff or

the fiddler's bow, representing the sceptre of the Lord of Misrule.

"At Christe's Kirk on the Grene that day" the Donnybrook element would

appear to have predominated. The mercantile feature was naturally

preferred by gentle Goldy, and the hapless investor in green

spectacles may be counted the first dissatisfied exhibitor on record

at a modern exposition, for he skirts the century.

Looking eastward, we find these rallies of the people, the

time-honored stalking-grounds of tale-writers and students of

character generally, swell into more imposing proportions. The sea

dwindles and the land broadens. Transportation and travel become

difficult and hazardous. Merchant and customer, running alike a

labyrinthine gauntlet of taxes, tolls and arbitrary exactions by the

wolves of schloss and château, found it safest to make fewer trips and

concentrate their transactions. The great nations, with many secondary

trade-tournaments, as they may be termed, had each a principal one.

From the great fair of Leipsic, with the intellectual but very bulky

commodity of books for its specialty to-day, we pass to the two

Novgorods--one of them no more than a tradition, having been

annihilated by Peter the Great when, with the instinct of great rulers

for deep water, he located the new capital of his vast interior empire

on the only available harbor it possessed. Its successor, known from

its numerous namesakes by the designation of "New," draws convoys of

merchandise from a vast tributary belt bounded by the Arctic and

North Pacific oceans and the deserts of Khiva. This traffic exceeds

a hundred millions of dollars annually. The medley of tongues and

products due to the united contributions of Northern Siberia, China

and Turkestan is hardly to be paralleled elsewhere on the globe.

_Was_, insists the all-conquering railway as it moves inexorably

eastward, and relegates the New Novgorod, with its modern fairs,

to the stranded condition of the old one, with its traditional

expositions. As, however, the rail must have a terminus somewhere,

if only temporary, the caravans of camels, oxen, horses, boats and

sledges will converge to a movable entrepôt that will assume more

and more an inter-Asiatic instead of an inter-national character. The

furs, fossil ivory, sheepskins and brick tea brought by them after

voyages often reaching a year and eighteen months, come, strictly

enough, under the head of raw products. Still, it is the best they

can bring; which cannot be said of what Europe offers in

exchange--articles mostly of the class and quality succinctly

described as "Brummagem." It is obvious that prizes, diplomas, medals,

commissioners and juries would be thrown away here. The palace

of glass and iron can only loom in the distant future, like the

cloud-castle in Cole's _Voyage of Life_. It may possibly be essayed in

a generation or two, when Ekaterinenborg, built up into a great

city by the copper, iron, gold, and, above all, the lately-opened

coal-mines of the Ural, shall have become the focus of the Yenisei,

Amour, Yang-tse and Indus system of railways. But here, again, we are

overstepping our century.

[Illustration: INTERIOR VIEW OF THE TRANSEPT OF CRYSTAL PALACE.]

To us it seems odd that in the days when an autocratic decree could

summarily call up "all the world" to be taxed, and when, in prompt

obedience to it, the people of all the regions gathered to a thousand

cities, the idea of numbering and comparing, side by side, goods,

handicrafts, arts, skill, faculties and energies, as well as heads,

never occurred to rulers or their counselors. If it did, it was never

put in practice. The difficulties to which we have before adverted

stood in the way of that combination of individual effort to which the

great displays of our day are mainly indebted for their success; but

what the government might have accomplished toward overcoming distance

and defective means of transport is evidenced by the mighty current

of objects of art, luxury and curiosity which flowed toward the

metropolis. Obelisks, colossal statues, and elephants and giraffes by

the score are articles of traffic not particularly easy to handle even

now.

[Illustration: NEW YORK EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1853.]

At the annual exposition of the Olympic games we have the feature of a

distribution of prizes. They were conferred, however, only on horses,

poets and athletes--a conjunction certainly in advance of the asses

and savants that constituted the especial care of the French army in

Egypt, but not up to the modern idea of the comprehensiveness of human

effort. While our artists confess it almost a vain hope to rival

the cameo brooch that fastened the scanty garment of the Argive

charioteer, or the statue spattered with the foam of his horses and

shrouded in the dust of his furious wheel--while they are content to

be teachable, moreover, by the exquisite embroidery and lacework

in gold and cotton thread displayed at another semi-religious and

similarly ancient reunion at Benares,--they claim the alliance and

support of many classes of craftsmen unrepresented on the Ganges or

Ilissus. These were, in the old days, ranked with slaves, many of whom

were merchants and tradesmen; and they labor yet in some countries

under the social ban of courts, no British merchant or cotton-lord,

though the master of millions, being presentable at Buckingham Palace,

itself the product of the counting-room and the loom. Little, however,

does this slight appear to affect the sensibilities of the noble army

of producers, who loyally rejoice to elevate their constitutional

sovereign on their implements as the Frankish prolétaries did upon

their shields.

The family of expositions with which we are directly concerned is,

like others of plebeian origin, at some loss as to the roots of its

ancestral tree. We may venture to locate them in the middle of the

eighteenth century. In 1756-57 the London Society of Arts offered

prizes for specimens of decorative manufactures, such as tapestry,

carpets and porcelain. This was part of the same movement with that

which brought into being the Royal Academy, with infinitely less

success in the promotion of high art than has attended the development

of taste, ingenuity and economy in the wider if less pretentious

field.

France's first exhibition of industry took place in 1798. It was

followed by others under the Consulate and Empire in 1801, 1802, 1806.

In 1819 the French expositions became regular. Each year attested an

advance, and drew more and more the attention of adjacent countries.

The international idea had not yet suggested itself. The tendency

was rather to the less than the more comprehensive, geographically

speaking. Cities took the cue from the central power, and got up each

its own show, of course inviting outside competition. The nearest

resemblance to the grand displays of the past quarter of a century

was perhaps that of Birmingham in 1849, which had yet no government

recognition; but the French exposition of five years earlier had a

leading influence in bringing on the London Fair of 1851, which

had its inception as early as 1848--one year before the Birmingham

display.

The getting up of a World's Fair was an afterthought; the original

design having been simply an illustration of British industrial

advancement, in friendly rivalry with that which was becoming,

across the Channel, too brilliant to be ignored. The government's

contribution, in the first instance, was meagre enough--merely the use

of a site. Rough discipline in youth is England's system with all her

bantlings. She is but a frosty parent if at bottom kindly, and, when

she has a shadow of justification, proud. In the present instance

she stands excused by the sore shock caused her conservatism by the

conceit of a building of glass and iron four times as long as St.

Paul's, high enough to accommodate comfortably one of her ancestral

elms, and capacious enough to sustain a general invitation to all

mankind to exhibit and admire.

Novelty and innovation attended the first step of the great movement.

The design of the structure made architects rub their eyes, and

yet its origin was humble and practical enough. The Adam of crystal

palaces, like him of Eden, was a gardener. When Joseph Paxton raised

the palm-house at Chatsworth he little suspected that he was building

for the world--that, to borrow a simile from his own vocation, he was

setting a bulb which would expand into a shape of as wide note as the

domes of Florence and St. Sophia. And the cost of his new production

was so absurdly low--eighty thousand pounds by the contract.

The cheapness of his plan was its great merit in the eyes of the

committee, and that which chiefly determined its selection over

two hundred and forty-four competitors. This new cathedral for the

apotheosis of industry resembled those of the old worship in the

attributes of nave, aisles and transepts; and these features have

been, by reason in great degree of the requirements of construction,

continued in its successors. Galleries were added to the original

design to secure space additional to what was naturally deemed at

first an ample allowance for all comers. Before ground had been well

broken the demands of British exhibitors alone ran up to four hundred

and seventeen thousand superficial feet instead of the two hundred and

ten thousand--half the whole area--allotted them. The United States

were offered forty thousand feet; France, fifty thousand, afterward

increased to sixty-five; the Zollverein, thirty thousand, and

India the same. A comparison of the whole number of exhibitors, as

distributed between Great Britain and other countries, indicates that

the equal division of the superficial space was a tolerably accurate

guess. They numbered 7381 from the mother-country and her colonies,

and 6556 from the rest of the world. Certainly, a change this from the

first French exhibition, held in the dark days of the Directory, when

the list reached but 110 names. We shall dismiss the statistics of

this exhibition with the remark that it has precedence of its fellows

in financial success as well as in time, having cleared a hundred

and seventy-odd thousand pounds, and left the Kensington Museum as

a memorial of that creditable feat, besides sending its cast-off but

still serviceable induviæ to Sydenham, where it enshrines another

museum, chiefly of architectural reproductions in plaster, in a

sempiternal coruscation of fountains, fireworks and fiddle-bows. The

palace of industry has become the palace of the industrial--abundantly

useful still if it lure him from the palace of gin. The chrism of

Thackeray's inaugural ode will not have been dishonored.

[Illustration: CORK EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1853.]

The first of the great fairs, in so many respects a model to all

that came after, was beset at the outset by the same difficulty in

arrangement encountered by them. How to reconcile the two headings of

subjects and nations, groups of objects and groups of exhibitors, the

endowments and progress of different races and the advance of mankind

generally in the various fields of effort, was, and is, a problem only

approximately to be solved. It was yet more complicated in 1851 from

the compression of the entire display into one building of simple and

symmetrical form, instead of dispersing certain classes of objects,

bulky and requiring special appliances for their proper display, into

subsidiary structures--the plan so effectively employed in Fairmount

Park. A sort of compromise was arrived at which rendered possible the

mapping of both countries and subjects, especially in the reports, and

to some extent in the exhibition itself, without making the spectacle

one of confusion. The visitor was enabled to accomplish his double

voyage through the depths of the sea of glass without a great deal

of backing and filling, and to find his log, after it was over,

reasonably coherent.

The articles displayed were ranged under thirty heads. The

preponderance of matter of fact was shown in the concession of four of

these to raw material, nineteen to manufactures, and _one_ to the

fine arts. Twenty-nine atoms of earth to one of heaven! Of course the

one-thirtieth whereinto the multiform and elastic shape of genius was

invited, like the afreet into his chest, to condense itself, had to

be subdivided--an intaglio and a temple, a scarabæus and a French

battle-picture, being very different things. This was accomplished,

and the Muses made as comfortable as could be expected. They soon

asserted the pre-eminence theirs by right divine, and came to be the

leading attraction of the affair, next to the Koh-i-noor. On this

barbaric contribution of the gorgeous East the French observers, a

little jealous perhaps, were severe. One of them says: "They rely on

the sun to make it sparkle," and, when the fog is too thick, on gas.

The curiosity about it, in the eyes of this incisive Gaul, was "not

the divinity, but the worshipers." All day long a crowd filed solemnly

by it under the supervision of a detachment of police, each pilgrim

bestowing upon the fetish, "an egg-shaped lump of glass," half a

second's adoration, and then moving reluctantly on. Thousands of far

more beautiful things were around it, but none embodying in so small

a space so many dollars and cents, and none therefore so brilliant in

the light of the nineteenth century. As this light, nevertheless, is

that in which we live, move and have our being, we must accept it, and

turn to substantials, wrought and unwrought.

On our way to this feast of solids we must step for a moment into St.

Paul's and listen to the great commemorative concert of sixty-five

hundred voices that swept all cavilers, foreign and domestic, off

their feet, brought tears to the most sternly critical eye, and caused

the composer, Cramer, to exclaim, as he looked up into the great dome,

filled with the volume of harmony, "Cosa stupenda! stupenda! La gloria

d'Inghilterra!"

A transition, indeed, from this to coal and iron--from a concord of

sweet sounds to the rumble into hold, car and cart of thirty-five

millions of tons of coal and two and a half millions of iron, the

yearly product at that time of England! She has since doubled that of

iron, and nearly trebled her extract of coal, whatever her progress

in the harvest of good music and good pictures. Forced by economical

necessity and assisted by chemistry, she makes her fuel, too, go a

great deal farther than it did in 1851, when the estimate was that

eighty-one per cent. of that consumed in iron-smelting was lost, and

when the "duty" of a bushel of coal burnt in a steam-engine was less

than half what it now is. The United States have the benefit of these

improvements, at the same time that their yield of coal has swelled

from four millions of tons at that time to more than fifty now, and

of iron in a large though not equal ratio. The Lake Superior region,

which rested its claims on a sample of its then annual product of one

hundred tons of copper, now exports seven hundred thousand tons of

iron ore.

Steel, now replacing iron in some of its heaviest uses, appeared as

almost an article of luxury in the shape of knives, scissors and the

like. The success of the Hindus in its production was quite envied and

admired, though they had probably advanced little since Porus deemed

thirty pounds a present fit for Alexander; their rude appliances

beating Sheffield an hour and a half in the four hours demanded by the

most adroit forgers of the city of whittles for its elimination from

the warm bath of iron and carbon. Bessemer, with his steel-mines, as

his furnaces at the ore-bank may be termed, was then in the future.

The steel rails over which we now do most of our traveling were

undreamed of. Bar iron did duty on all the eighty-eight hundred miles

of American and sixty-five hundred of British railway; not many, if

at all, more than are now laid, in this country at least, with steel.

This poetic and historic metal has become as truly a raw product as

potatoes. The poets will have to drop it. The glory of Toledo--of

her swords bent double in the scabbard, of her rapiers that bore into

one's interior only the titillating sensation of a spoonful of vanilla

ice, and of her decapitating sabres that left the culprit whole so

long as he forbore to sneeze--is trodden under foot of men.

[Illustration: DUBLIN EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1853.]

In crude materials the Union is at home. It was so in 1851, and is

still; but then it was not so much at home in anything else as now.

We have advanced in that field too, since we sent no silver, and from

Colorado no gold, no canned fruits, meats or fish, and no wine but

some Cincinnati Catawba, thin and acid, according to the verdict

of the imbibing jury. We adventured timidly into manufacturing

competition with the McCormick reaper, which all Europe proceeded

straightway to pirate; ten or twelve samples of cotton and three of

woolen goods; Ericsson's caloric-engine; a hydrostatic pump; some

nautical instruments; Cornelius's chandeliers for burning lard

oil--now the light of other days, thanks to our new riches in

kerosene; buggies of a tenuity so marvelous in Old-World eyes that

their half-inch tires were likened to the miller of Ferrette's legs,

so thin that Talleyrand pronounced his standing an act of the most

desperate bravery; soap enough to answer Coleridge's cry for a

detergent for the lower Rhine; and one bridge model, forerunner of the

superb iron erections that have since leaped over rivers and ravines

in hundreds.

Meagre enough was the display of our craftsmen by the side of that

made by their brethren of the other side. It could have been scarce

visible to Britannia, looking down from a pinnacle of calico ready for

a year's export over and above her home consumption, long enough, if

unrolled, to put a girdle thirty times round the globe, though not all

of it warranted to stand the washing-test that would be imposed by the

briny part of the circuit.

And yet there were visible in the American department germs

of original inventions and adaptations, the development and

fructification of which in the near future were foreseen by acute

observers. Our metallic life-boats were then unknown to other

countries, those of England being all of wood. The screw-propeller

was quite a new thing, though the Princeton had carried it, or been

carried by it, into the Mediterranean ten years before. Engines

designed for its propulsion attracted special attention. The

side-wheel reigned supreme among British war-steamers, although some

of the altered liners which cut such an imposing figure till the

Sebastopol forts in '55 checked, and iron-clads in '62 finished,

their career, were under way. A model of one of them, The Queen, was

exhibited as the highest exemplification of "the progress of art

as applied to shipbuilding during the last eighteen centuries"--a

progress entirely eclipsed by that of the subsequent eighteen years.

We sent no steam fire-engines, no locomotives, and no cars. Our great

printing-presses, since largely borrowed from and imported by Europe,

were scarcely noticed. Not so with "a most beautiful little machine"

for making card wire-cloth, copied from America. Recognition of the

supreme merits of the pianos of Chickering, Steinway and the rest was

still wanting, Erard's Parisian instruments bearing the bell. Borden's

meat-biscuit--to revert to the practical--caused quite a sensation,

the Admiralty being overloaded with spoiled and condemned _preserved_

meat. The American daguerreotypes on exhibition were pronounced

decidedly superior to those of France, and still more to those of

England. Whipple displayed the first photograph taken of the moon,

thus securing to this country the credit of having broken ground for

the application of the new art to astronomy. No photograph of a star

or of the sun had been obtained. The distance between the United

States and Europe in the application and improvement of photography

cannot be said, notwithstanding our advantage in climate, to have been

since widened. A field of competition still lies open before them in

the fixing of color by the camera and the sensitive surface. The

sun still insists on doing his work with India ink and keeping his

spectral palette strictly to himself. For cheap and popular renderings

of color man was then, as now, fain to have recourse to the press.

The English exhibited some chromatic printing, far inferior to the

chromo-lithographs of today.

And this brings us to art. One out of thirty in the programme, it was,

as it always will be on these occasions, nearer thirty to one in the

estimation of assembled sight-seers. The dry goods and machinery, even

the bald, shadeless and ugly (however comfortable) model cottages of

the inevitable Prince Albert, failed to draw like the things which

flattered the lust of the eye; as the pigs and pumpkins of an

"agricultural horse-trot" attract but a wayside glance from the

procession to the grand stand. We are all dwellers in a vast

picture-gallery, with frescoed dome above and polychromed sculpture

and mosaic pavement on the floor below. Its merits we perceive, enjoy

and interpret according to our individual gifts and education. But it

makes amateurs in some sort of every mother's son or daughter, of us;

and we hasten to plunge, confident each in his particular grammar of

the beautiful, into the study of what imitative gallery may be offered

us. Though the financial idea may have been uppermost in the minds of

the devotees of the Mountain of Light, and their pleasure in the march

past that of a stroll through the vaults of the Bank of England, they

also expected to see in it the combined brilliance of all diamonds.

Not finding that, we dare say few of them paid it a second visit, but,

led by a like craving for dazzle, sought more legitimate intoxication

in marble, canvas, porcelain and chased and cast metals.

There they saw the diamond put into harness by the Hindus and used

for drilling gems as it is now for drilling railway tunnels. In the

carpets and shawls of the same region was to be traced an exact and

unfaltering instinct for color, the tints falling into their proper

places like those of the rainbow--the result not a picture, any more

than the rainbow is a picture, but a blotted study rubbed up with the

palette-knife, or what in music would be a fantasia.

[Illustration: MUNICH EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1854.]

From the Asiatic display, more complete by far than any before known,

the eye passed to the works of the more disciplined hand and fancy and

the more scholastic color-notions of Europe. There was young Munich

with Müller's lions and the anti-realistic figures of Schwanthaler;

Austria with Monti's veiled heads, henceforth to be credited to

Lombardy; Prussia with Rauch; and Denmark with Thorwaldsen--all pure

form, copied without color from Nature, from convention and from

the antique. Then came design and color united in ceramics--in

the marvelously delicate flowers of Dresden, purified in the

porcelain-furnace as by fire; in the stately vases of Sèvres, just

but varied in proportion, unfathomable in the rich depths of their

ground-shadows, and exact and brilliant in the superimposed details;

the more raw but promising efforts of Berlin, marked, like the jewelry

from the same city, by faithful study of Nature; and, blending the

decorative with the economic, the works of the English Wedgwoods and

Mintons, infinite in variety of style and utility, and often pleasing

in design. Italy, though supplying from her ancient stores so many

of the models and so much of the inspiration of the countries named,

seems to have forgotten Faenza and Etruria, and to prefer solid stone

as a material to preparations of clay and flint. Her Venetian glass

has markedly declined, at the same time that glass elsewhere--notably,

the stained windows of Munich and the smaller objects of France

and Bohemia--shows a great advance in perfection of manufacture and

manageability for art purposes.

In that debatable land where the artistic and the convenient meet at

the fire-side and the tea-table, English invention, enterprise

and solicitude for the comfort and presentability of home shone

conspicuous. Domestic art finds in the island a congenial home,

and helps to make one for the islanders. English interiors, often

incongruous and sombre in their decorations, at least produce the

always pleasant sensation of physical comfort, the attainment of

which the average Briton will class among the fine arts. Lovely as the

Graces are, they need a little editing to harmonize them with a coal

fire.

This halfway house of the nineteenth century, the house of glass in

which it boldly ensconced itself to throw stones at its benighted

relations, will ever be a landmark to the traveler over the somewhat

arid expanse of industrial and commercial history. Its humblest

statistics will be preserved, and coming generations will read with

interest that 42,809 persons visited it, on an average, each day, that

these rose on one day to 109,915, and that there were at one time

in the building 93,224, or six thousand more than Domitian's most

tempting and sanguinary bill of theatrical fare could have drawn

into the Coliseum. Its length, by the way, was exactly equal to the

circumference of the Flavian amphitheatre--1848 feet.

A new home (of progress)! who'll follow? "I," quoth New York. The

British empire had taken three years in preparation: New York was

ready with less than two. Not quite ready, either, we are apt to

say now, but most creditably so for the time and the means of a few

enterprising private men bestowed upon it. And up to this time the

display of '53 under the Karnak-like shadow of the Croton Reservoir

has not been equaled on our soil.

Architecturally, the building was superior to that of London, and

showed itself less cramped by the peculiarities of the novel material.

The form was that of a Greek cross, with a central dome a hundred and

forty-eight feet high, and eight towers at the salients of seventy

feet. The space, including galleries, did not reach a third of that

afforded by its prototype, but proved equal to the demand.

Considering the absence of any formal public character in the movement

and the brief notice, foreign exhibitors came forward in tolerable

force. They could not expect to address through this display each

other's commercial constituencies, as very few visitors would traverse

the Atlantic: they could reach only the people of the United States.

This difficulty must interfere--though much less now than twenty years

ago, when the means of ocean-travel were but a fraction of what they

are at present--with the strictly international complexion of any

exposition in this country. If, however--as we are already assured

beyond peradventure will be the case with the Centennial--our

neighbors over the way send us a full representation of their

products, and a delegation of visitors from their most intelligent

classes, not inferior in numbers, for example, to the Germans who went

to London, and the English who repaired in '73 to Vienna, we shall

claim a cosmopolitan character for our exposition, and hold that it

well fills its place in the line of progress.

What Europe did send to New York sufficed to prove the superiority

of our own artisans in such labor-saving contrivances as suited the

conditions of the country. The foreign implements and machines were

more cumbrous in both complexity and weight of parts than ours. In

the finer departments of manufacture, the Gobelin tapestry, the French

glass, porcelain and silks, the broadcloths of England and Prussia,

and a host of other such articles, could expect no rivalry here. The

slender contributions of statuary and paintings hardly sufficed to

illustrate the conceded superiority of the Old World in art. Crawford

and Powers did very well by the side of the other, disciples of

the antique, their chief opposition coming from some indifferent

plaster-casts of Thorwaldsen's _Twelve Apostles_. In point of

popularity, Kiss's spirited melodramatic group of the _Amazon and

Tiger_ threw them all into the shade. Its triumph at London was almost

as marked, and the innumerable reductions of it met with everywhere

show it to be one of the few hits of modern sculpture.

The general result of the exhibition was to encourage our

manufacturers, without giving them a great deal of food for higher

ambition; while our artists and the taste of their patrons, actual

and possible, were disappointed of the instruction they had reason to

expect, and which the ateliers of Europe will supply in fuller measure

this year.

The succeeding years present us with an epidemic of expositions, most

of them, often on the slenderest grounds, arrogating the title of

"international." The sprightly little city of Cork was one year ahead

of New York. Then came Dublin in '53, Munich in '54, Paris in '55,

Manchester in '57 (of art exclusively, and very brilliant), Florence

in '61, London again in '62, Amsterdam in '64; and in '65 the mania

had overspread the globe, that year witnessing exhibitions dubbed

"international" in Dublin, New Zealand, Oporto, Cologne and Stettin,

with perhaps some outliers we have missed. Then ensued a lull or a

mitigation till the moribund empire of France and the remodeled empire

of Austro-Hungary flared up into the magnificent demonstrations of '67

and '73. To these last we shall devote the remainder of this article,

with but a glance at the second British of 1862.

[Illustration: MANCHESTER EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1857.]

This, held upon the same ground with its forerunner of eleven years

previous, affords a better measure of progress. It developed a

manifest advance in designs for ornamental manufactures. The

schools of decorative art were beginning to tell. Carpets, hangings,

furniture, stuffs for wear, encaustic tiles, etc. showed a sounder

taste; and this in the foreign as well as the British stalls. French

porcelain was more fully represented than before, and in finer

designs. The Paris exhibition of '55, more extensively planned, though

less of a financial success, than the London one it followed, was not

without effect on the industry and art-culture of France. The United

States also showed that they had not been idle. Our fabrics of

vulcanized rubber and sewing-machines were boons to Europe she has not

been slow to seize. The latter are now sold in England, with trifling

modifications and new trademarks, at from one-third to one-half the

price our people have to pay.

The secret of making money out of these great fairs seemed to have

been lost. Although England's second took in much more than the first,

and four times as much as the first French, four hundred and sixty

thousand pounds having entered its treasury, it failed to leave any

such profitable memorials of profit.

By this time the spirit of French emulation was stirred to its

inmost depths. They had gone to London, argued the Gauls, under every

disadvantage. To prove that they had returned covered with glory,

they hunted every nook and corner of numerical analysis. Out of 18,000

exhibitors of all nations, they had had but 1747, and yet Paris had

received thirty-nine council medals, or honors of the first order,

per million of inhabitants, against fourteen per million accorded to

London. She had beaten the metropolis of fog not only in general,

but in detail. In every branch, from the most solid to the most

sentimental, she was victorious. For machinery a million of gamins

beat a million of Cockneys in the proportion of seven to six; in the

economical and chemical arts, four to one; in the geographical and

geometrical, eight to three; and in the fine arts, Waterloo was

reversed to the tune of twenty to four.

Nothing could be more conclusive; but to take a bond of fate it

was determined to imitate England in trying a second display, and

supplement '53 with '67 more effectively than Albion had '51 with

'62. In what gallant style this determination was carried out we

all remember. France did put forth her strength. She illustrated the

Second Empire with an outpouring of her own genius and energy the

variety and comprehensiveness of which no other nation could pretend

to equal; and she called together the nearest approach to a rally of

the nations that had yet been seen.

The casket of these assembled treasures was hardly worthy of them,

so far as the effect of the mass went. It needed a facade as badly

as does a confectioner's plum-cake. Had the vitreous mass been dumped

upon the Champs de Mars from the clouds in a viscous state like

the Alpine _mers de glace_, it would have assumed much such a thick

disk-like shape as it actually wore. Then decorate it with some

spun-sugar pinnacles and some flags of silver paper, and the confiseur

stood confessed. Nevertheless, motive was there. Catch anything French

without it.

[Illustration: FLORENCE EXHIBITION BUILDING, 1861]

The pavilion consisted of seven concentric ovals, the arcs and their

radii effecting the duplicate division of objects and countries.

Outside, under the eaves and in the surrounding area, the peoples

were encamped around their possessions. The gastric fluid being the

universal solvent, the festive board was assigned the position nearest

the building, a continuous shed protecting the restaurants of all

nations, each with its proper specialty in the way of viands and

service. Necessarily, there was in the carrying out of the latter idea

a good deal of the sham and theatrical. But that gave the thing more

zest, and the saloons were by no means the least effective feature of

the appliances for introducing the races to each other. Tired of

the tender intercourse of chopsticks, forks and fingers, they could

exchange visits in their drawing-rooms; most of the known styles

of dwelling-place, if we except the snow-huts of the Esquimaux,

the burrows of the Kamtchadales and the boats of Canton, having

representatives.

The United States government took particular interest in this

exposition, and published a long and detailed report made by its

commissioners. Our contributions were not worthy of the country, and

showed but little novelty. Implements of farming and of war, pianos,

sewing-machines and locomotives attracted chief attention. The pianos

were "unreservedly praised." The wines, California having come to the

rescue, were pronounced an improvement on previous specimens. The only

trait of our engines that was admired or borrowed appears to have been

that which had least to do with the organism of the machine--the cab.

In cars our ideas have fruited better, and Pullman and Westinghouse

have gained a firm foothold in England, with whose endorsement their

way is open across the Channel. In the arts we are credited with

seventy-five pictures, against a hundred and twenty-three from England

and six hundred and fifty-two from France.

[Illustration: PARIS EXPOSITION BUILDING AND GROUNDS, 1867.]

Here France was at home, and felt it. The works of Dubray, Triquetti,

Yvon, Giraud, Gérôme, Dubufe, Toulmouche, Courbet, Troyon, Rosa

Bonheur and others exhibited the route toward the naturalistic

taken by her modern school, so different from that pursued by the

Pre-Raphaelites in England. The Düsseldorf school has been drawn into

the same path--France's one conquest from Prussia, who made at the

same time a stout struggle in defence of the classic manner through

Kaulbach. The drawings and paintings of art-students maintained by the

French government in Italy attested an enlightened liberality other

governments, general or local, would do well to imitate. The cost of

supporting a few score of pupils in Rome could in no way be better

bestowed for the promotion of commerce, manufactures and education.

Taste has unquestionably a high economic value. But this is only one

of France's ways of recognizing the fact. The government École des

Beaux Arts at Paris contained, in 1875, a hundred and seventy-two

students of architecture, a hundred and eighty-three of painting,

forty of sculpture and two hundred and fifty of engraving.

As a corollary to this assiduous culture, French art collectively was

at the exposition "first, and the rest nowhere." The old works sent

by Italy stood by themselves; and in mosaic, Salviati's glass, and

statuary led by Vela's _Last Moments of Napoleon_, the modern studios

of that country ranked in the front. Prussia had some heliographic

maps, then a new thing, and chromos, also in the bud; Austria and

England, fine architectural drawings; and Eastlake, Stanfield,

Landseer, Frith and Faed crossed pencils with the French. But nothing

modern of the kind could stand by the porcelain of Sèvres, the glass

of St. Louis and Baccarat, the bronzes of other French producers, the

vast collection of drawings of ancient and mediaeval monuments and

architecture in France, her book-binding and illustration by Bida and

Doré, her jewelry and her art-manufactures as a whole. In carriages

she had obviously studied the turnouts of American workshops to

advantage.

In agricultural machinery all civilized exhibitors had gone to school

to our artisans.

One of our specialties, a postal-car, appeared under the Prussian

flag. So did things more legitimately the property of the nascent

empire. The Krupp gun cast its substance, as well as its shadow,

before. A locomotive destined for India made Bull rub his eyes.

Chemicals in every grade of purity spoke the potency of the German

alembic.

The probability that the production of beetroot-sugar would before

many years attain a position among the industries of this country gave

interest in the eyes of American visitors to the display of European

machinery employed so successfully in that business. Labor-saving

machinery we have not generally been in the habit of borrowing.

Neither, on the other hand, has Europe been accustomed to draw from

us crude material for the finest manufactures; and the balance was set

even by the admirable quality of the glass made from American sand

and the porcelain moulded in American kaolin. The latter substance, a

silicate of alumina, is not found in England, and at but few points on

the Continent. We have it in abundance and of the finest quality.

[Illustration: GRAND VESTIBULE OF THE PARIS EXPOSITION BUILDING,

1867.]

The extraordinary steps made within five years in the arts of

destruction were illustrated by the twelve-inch Armstrong rifles of

England and the Essen gun, throwing a 1212-pound shot. In 1862 the

heaviest projectile shown did not exceed one hundred pounds. For

field-service the limit of practice in weight seems long ago to have

been reached: for forts and ships it cannot be far off. Armor and

projectiles must soon bring each other to a standstill; as when, in

the Italian wars of the fifteenth century, offence and defence reached

the _reductio ad absurdum_ of the incapacity of men-at-arms to inflict

serious injury upon each other, or even to pick themselves up when

the weight of their armor, with some aid from the clumsy blows of

an antagonist, had overthrown them. Assailant and assailed were _in

equilibrio_, and personal equilibrium could not be restored. Some such

inane result may be witnessed when a pair of hostile iron-clads, out

of sight of their nursing convoys, shall meet alone upon the deep;

with the disagreeable difference that they will, if they go down, have

a great deal farther to fall than the cuirassiers of the land.

[Illustration: VIENNA EXPOSITION BUILDING AND GROUNDS, 1873.]

Since 1851 a new commercial cement had come into operation in the

adoption by neighboring powers of the French metrical system. England

and America still hold out against the mètre and the gramme; and the

press of both occasionally levels at it the old jokes of making the

spheres weigh a pound of butter and the polar axis measure a yard

of calico. With the innovation, however, our merchants have become

perforce familiar, a large share of their imported commodities

being invoiced in accordance with it. Its immense superiority to our

complicated and arbitrary weights and measures, in the tables whereof

the same word often has half a dozen meanings, is beyond argument.

In the United States it has earned a quasi-official adoption, but the

force of habit among the people has yet to be overcome.

We may here give, in evidence of the increasing hold these expositions

have upon the popular mind, the gradual multiplication of the numbers

exhibiting. At London, in '51, the exhibitors were 13,937; at Paris,

'55, 23,954; at London, '62, 28,653; and at Paris, '67, 50,226.

Austria, with admirable spirit, determined to anticipate her turn to

enter the lists of peace. Undismayed by Solferino and Sadowa, she had

found her Antaeus in Andrassy. Her capital city was advancing with

immense strides in beauty and extent. Geographically and ethnically it

was, like the empire itself, a meeting-ground of north and south, east

and west. Isolated from the sea, it offered for the transport of heavy

articles a system of railways proved by the event to be sufficiently

effective. It was decided that the march of progress should be more

than kept up, and that the building, with its appendages, should be an

improvement on all its predecessors in extent, in architectural effect

and in solidity of material. The dimensions are so variously stated,

owing largely to difference of opinion as to what should be embraced

within the admeasurement, that we are at a loss how to give them. To

the main building, however, was assigned a capacity of seventy-three

thousand five hundred and ninety-three square mètres. Sixty-three

hundred and eighty of these were awarded to France, ten mètres less

to England; and thirteen hundred and sixty to the United States. The

marquee-like rotunda rose to a height of two hundred and fifty feet,

with a diameter at base of three hundred and fifty-four. The principal

entrance, with piers and arches of cut stone profusely decorated

with statues and reliefs, was in highly satisfactory contrast to

the fragile shells of glass and cast iron that sheltered the earlier

exhibitions.

[Illustration: ROTUNDA OF THE VIENNA EXPOSITION BUILDING, 1873.]

Perhaps in all this solid work the demands of time had not been duly

considered. Certainly, the display was not punctual to the appointed

period of opening. Exceptionally bad weather was another drawback, and

the greed of the Viennese hotel-keepers a third. For such, among other

reasons, the enterprise was financially a failure--a fact which little

concerns those who went to study and learn, and those who three years

later have to describe. If the darkening of the imperial exchequer

prove more than a passing shadow, and an ultimate loss on the

speculation cease to be matter of question, the few millions it cost

may be recovered by the disbanding of a regiment or two. For one

brigade, out of half a million soldiers, to bring the world and its

wealth to the seat of government, is doing better than the usual work

of the bayonet.

The country and the city themselves were a study to foreigners in

many of the modes of life. The extent to which the utilization, as

stationary and locomotive machines, of pigs, cows, women and dogs

was carried elicited constant remark from the Western tourists, with

sundry moral conclusions perhaps too hastily arrived at. This outside

feature of the exposition may serve as an admonition to put our own

surroundings in order. They are not apt to expose us to such comments

as naturally occur to those who have never seen dogs and damsels in

harness together; but other vulnerable points may peradventure be

descried. We must demonstrate our civilization to be complete at

all points, and not simply a coddled exotic under glass. What if our

Viennese guests, physically a stouter race than we, should pronounce

our women _too_ obviously not hod-carriers, and painfully unaccustomed

to wheeling anything heavier than an arm-chair or a piano-stool?

In that land of music concerts could not fail to be a leading feature.

The Boston improvement of emphasizing the bass with discharges of

distant artillery, or its equivalent, the slamming of cellar-doors

nearer by, was not attained. Noise and harmony were kept at arm's

length apart.

The illustration of homes was made a specialty. As at Paris, the

peoples brought their dwellings, or, more often, the dwellings came

without their occupants. The four-footed and feathered live-stock

were of more indubitable authenticity. The display of all the European

breeds of cattle and horses--English Durhams, Alderneys and racers,

Russian trotters, Holstein cows and Flemish mares, the gray oxen of

Hungary and the buffaloes of the Campagna, the wild red pigs of the

Don and the razor-backs of Southern France--was calculated to amuse,

if but moderately to edify, our breeders of Ohio, Kentucky and New

York. A thousand horses and fifteen hundred horned cattle comprised

this congress, while two hundred and fifty pigs were deemed enough to

represent the grunters of all nations.

Of animals in another form, the preserved meats of Australia, sent

sound across the tropics to the amount of seventeen thousand tons in

1872, against _four_ tons in 1866, had their use of instruction to

our packers. So with the improved display of agricultural produce from

Southern Russia, our chief competitor in the grain-market. Our reapers

and threshers are supplanting, in Eastern Europe, the ridiculous

flails, sickles and straight-handled scythes that figured at New York

in 1853. We have sent the Dacians, Huns and Sarmatians weapons to

cut our own commercial throats. There are more enriching articles of

export than wheat, as we must continue to learn.

In turning to other provinces, we find that England was foremost in

machinery, the United States, "the only rival," says a British critic,

"from whom we had anything to fear," being feebly represented, as

we were in other respects, thanks to certain irregularities in the

management of our commissioners sufficiently discussed at the time.

The British carpets out-shone the display of any competitor, the

influence of her new schools of decorative design being unmistakably

marked.

The Aubusson carpets of France still maintained their position, as did

the velvet, faïence, tapestry, engravings, books, marine photographs,

etc. of the same country. Italy made her usual contribution in the

arts. Among the Austrian objects of this class the opals of Hungary

were prominent.

India was unexpectedly complete in her collection: not only her modern

industry, but her antiquities, had abundant specimens.

Much criticism has been expended upon the alleged lavish and

indiscriminate distribution of medals and diplomas at Vienna. But,

however numerous the undeserving who obtained them, the deserving must

at the same time have had their share: the shower that fell on the

unjust could not have missed the just. Therefore we note that, despite

our slender show, one hundred and seventy-eight medals for Merit and

sixty-nine for Progress, two for the Fine Arts (German Bierstadt and

French Healey) and five for Good Taste, came to America. The

National Bureau of Education, the Lighthouse Board and the State of

Massachusetts obtained "Grand Diplomas of Honor" for documents. The

like honor was awarded to the city of Boston and the Smithsonian

Institution, and to four private exhibitors for the more

palpable contributions of tool-making machinery, steam-machinery,

mowing-machines and dentistry. This list does not teach us much. The

prizes are, unless awarded with the most intelligent and conscientious

precision, valuable chiefly as advertisements to the recipients, who

can earn, and generally have earned, better advertisements in other

shapes.

Thus have the chief powers of Western and Central Europe displayed

their mettle in peaceful tourney. The visor of a young and unknown

knight is now barred for the fray. He has, like the rest in these days

of modern chivalry, to be his own herald and blow his own preliminary

blast. It is a tolerably sonorous one. Let the event show that he

speaks not through brass alone.

SKETCHES OF INDIA.

III.

Thus we fared leisurely along. We passed Cabul merchants peddling

their dried fruit on shaggy-haired camels; to these succeeded, in

more lonesome portions of the road, small groups of Korkas, wretched

remnants of one of the autochthonal families of Central India--even

lower in the scale of civilization than the Gónds, among whom they are

found; and to these the richly-caparisoned elephants of some wealthy

Bhopal gentleman making a journey. We lingered long among the

marvelous old Buddhistic _topes_ or tumuli of Sanchi, and I interested

my companion greatly in describing the mounds of the United

States, with which I was familiar, and whose resemblance to these

richly-sculptured and variously-ornamented ruins, though rude and far

off, was quite enough to set his active fancy to evolving all manner

of curious hypotheses going to explain such similarity. The whole way,

by Sangor, Gharispore, Bhilsa, Sanchi, Sonori, presented us with the

most interesting relics of the past, and the frequent recurrence of

the works of the once prevalent Buddhistic faith continually incited

us to new discussions of the yet unsolved question, Why has Buddha's

religion, which once had such entire possession of this people's

hearts, so entirely disappeared from the land?

And, as nothing could be more completely contrasted with the desert

asceticism which Buddha's tenets inculcated than the luxury into which

Mohammed's creed has flowered, so nothing could have more strikingly

broken in upon our discussions of the Buddhistic monuments than

the view which we at last obtained of the lovely Mohammedan city of

Bhopal. To the south and east ran a strip of country as barren and

heartacheish as if the very rocks and earth had turned Buddhist,

beyond which a range of low rounded hills, not unlike _topes_,

completed the ascetic suggestion. But, turning from this, we saw

Mohammedanism at its very loveliest. Minarets, domes, palaces,

gardens, the towers of the citadel, waters of lovely lakes, all

mingled themselves together in the voluptuous light of the low

sun: there was a sense of music, of things that sparkled, of pearly

lustres, of shimmering jewels, of softness, of delight, of luxury.

Bhopal looked over the ragged valley like a sultan from the window of

his zenana regarding afar off an unkempt hermit in his solitude. My

companion had arranged for permission to enter the town, and it was

not long ere we were installed in the house of a friend of Bhima

Gandharva's, whose guests we remained during our stay in Bhopal.

[Illustration: MUSSULMAN WOMAN OF BHOPAL.]

On a rock at the summit of a hill commanding this interesting city

stands the fort of Fatehgarh, built by a certain Afghan adventurer,

Dost Mohammed Khan, who, in a time when this part of India must have

been a perfect paradise for all the free lances of the East, was

so fortunate as to win the favor of Aurungzebe, and to receive as

evidence thereof a certain district in Malwa. The Afghan seems to

have lost no time in improving the foothold thus gained, and he thus

founded the modern district of Bhopal, which was formerly divided

between Malwa and Góndwana, one gate of the town standing in the

former and one in the latter country. Dost Mohammed Khan appears,

indeed, to have been not the only adventurer who bettered his fortunes

in Bhopal. It is a curious fact, and one well illustrating the

liberality which has characterized much of the more modern history of

the Bhopal government, that no long time ago it was administered by

a regency consisting of three persons--one a Hindu, one a Mohammedan,

and the other a Christian. This Christian is mentioned by Sir John

Malcolm as "Shahzed Musseah, or Belthazzar Bourbona" (by which Sir

John means _Shahzahad Messiah_--a native appellation signifying "the

Christian prince"--or _Balthazar of Bourbon_), and is described by

that officer, to whom he was well known, as a brave soldier and an

able man. He traced his lineage to a certain Frenchman calling himself

John of Bourbon, who in the time of Akbar was high in favor and

position at Delhi. His widow, the princess Elizabeth of Bourbon, still

resides at Bhopal in great state, being possessed of abundant wealth

and ranking second only to the Begum. She is the acknowledged head of

a large number of descendants of John of Bourbon, amounting to five or

six hundred, who remain at Bhopal and preserve their faith--having a

church and Catholic priest of their own--as well as the traditions of

their ancestry, which, according to their claim, allies them to the

royal blood of France.

No mention of Bhopal can fail to pay at least a hasty tribute in

commemoration of the forcible character and liberal politics of

the Begum, who has but of late gone to her account after a long and

sometimes trying connection with the administration of her country's

affairs. After the death of her husband--who was accidentally killed

by a pistol in the hands of a child not long after the treaty with the

English in 1818--their nephew, then in his minority, was considered as

the future nawab, and was betrothed to their daughter, the Begum being

regent during his minority. When the time came, with his majority, for

the nuptials, the Begum refused to allow the marriage to take place,

for reasons which need not here be detailed. After much dispute a

younger brother of the nephew was declared more eligible, but the

Begum still managed in one way or another to postpone matters, much to

his dissatisfaction. An arbitration finally resulted in placing him

on the throne, but his reign was short, and he died after a few years,

leaving the Begum again in practical charge of affairs--a position

which she improved by instituting many wise and salutary reforms and

bringing the state of Bhopal to a condition of great prosperity. The

Pearl Mosque (_Monti Masjid_), which stands immediately in front

of the palace, was built at her instance in imitation of the great

cathedral-mosque of Delhi, and presents a charming evidence of her

taste, as well as of the architectural powers still existing in this

remarkable race.

The town proper of Bhopal is enclosed by a much--decayed wall of

masonry some two miles in circuit, within which is a fort, similar

both in its condition and material to the wall. Outside these limits

is a large commercial quarter (_gunge_). The beautiful lake running

off past the town to the south is said to be artificial in its origin,

and to have been produced at the instance of Bho Pal, the minister

of King Bohoje, as long ago as the sixth century, by damming up the

waters of the Bess (or Besali) River, for the purpose of converting an

arid section into fertile land. It is still called the Bhopal Tal.

[Illustration: A NAUTCH-GIRL (OR BAYADÈRE) OF ULWUR.]

If this were a ponderous folio of travels, one could detail the

pleasures and polite attentions of one's Bhopalese host; of the social

_utter-pán_; of the sprinklings with rose-water; of the dreamy talks

over fragrant hookahs; of the wanderings among bazaars filled with

moving crowds of people hailing from all the ports that lie between

Persia and the Góndwana; of the _fêtes_ where the nautch-girl of

Baroda contended in graceful emulation with the nautch-girl of Ulwur,

and the cathacks (or male dancers) with both; of elegantly-perfumed

Bhopalese young men; of the palaces of nobles guarded by soldiers

whose accoutrements ranged from the musket to the morion; of the

Moharum, when the Mohammedan celebrates the New Year. But what would

you have? A sketch is a sketch. We have got only to the heart of

India: the head and the whole prodigious eastern side are not yet

reached. It is time one were off for Jhansi.

At Bioura we encountered modern civilization again in the shape of the

south-west branch of the Grand Trunk road, which leads off from the

main stem at Agra. The Grand Trunk is not a railroad, but a firm and

smooth highway, with which the English have united Calcutta to the

North-west Provinces and to the west of India. Much of this great

roadway is metaled with _kunkur_, an oolitic limestone found near the

surface of the soil in Hindustan; and all Anglo-India laughed at the

joke of an irreverent punster who, _apropos_ of the fact that this

application of kunkur to the road-bed was made under the orders of

Lord William Bentinck, then governor-general, dubbed that gentleman

William the Kunkurer.

We had abandoned our _chapaya_--which, we may add for the benefit

of future travelers, we had greatly improved as against jolting by

causing it to be suspended upon a pair of old springs which we found,

a relic of some antique break-down, in a village on the route--and

after a short journey on elephants were traveling _dâk_; that is, by

post. The _dâk-gharri_ is a comfortable-enough long carriage on four

wheels, and constitutes the principal mode of conveyance for travelers

in India besides the railway. It contains a mattress inside, for it

goes night and day, and one's baggage is strapped on top, much as in

an American stage-coach after the "boot" is full. Frequent relays of

horses along the route enable the driver to urge his animals from one

station to the other with great speed, and the only other stoppages

are at the _dâk_-bungalows.

"I have discovered," I said to Bhima Gandharva after a short

experience of the _dâk-gharri_ and the _dâk_-bungalows--"I have

discovered a general remark about India which is _not_ absurd: all the

horses are devils and all the _dâk_-bungalow servants are patriarchs."

"If you judge by the heels of the former and the beards of the latter,

it is true," he said.

This little passage was based on the experience of the last relay,

which was, however, little more than a repetition of many previous

ones. My friend and I having arranged ourselves comfortably in the

_dâk-gharri_ as soon as it was announced ready to start, the long and

marvelously lean Indian who was our driver signified to his team by

the usual horse-language that we should be glad to go. The horse did

not even agitate his left ear--a phenomenon which I associate with

a horse in that moment when he is quietly making up his mind to be

fractious. "Go, my brother," said the driver in a mellifluous and

really fraternal tone of voice. The horse disdained to acknowledge the

tie: he stood still.

[Illustration: A NAUTCHNI (OR BAYADÈRE) OF BARODA.]

Then the driver changed the relationship, with an access of tenderness

in voice and in adjuration. "Go, my son," he entreated. But the son

stood as immovable as if he were going to remain a monument of filial

impiety to all time.

"Go, my grandson, my love." This seemed entirely too much for the

animal, and produced apparently a sense of abasement in him which was

in the highest degree uncomplimentary to his human kinsman and lover.

He lay down. In so doing he broke several portions of the ragged

harness, and then proceeded, with the most deliberate absurdity, to

get himself thoroughly tangled in the remainder.

"I think I should be willing," I said to my companion, "to carry that

horse to Jhansi on my own shoulders if I could have the pleasure of

seeing him blown from one of the rajah's cannon in the, fort."

But the driver, without the least appearance of discomposure, had

dismounted, and with his long deft Hindu fingers soon released the

animal, patched up his gear, replaced him between the shafts and

resumed his place.

[Illustration: THE CATHACKS (OR DANCING MEN) OF BHOPAL.]

Another round of consanguinities: the animal still remained immovable,

till presently he lunged out with a wicked kick which had nearly

obliterated at one blow the whole line of his ancestry and collateral

relatives as represented in the driver. At this the latter became

as furious as he had before been patient: he belabored the horse,

assistants ran from the stables, the whole party yelled and

gesticulated at the little beast simultaneously, and he finally broke

down the road at a pace which the driver did not suffer him to relax

until we arrived at the bungalow where we intended to stop for supper.

A venerable old Mohammedan in a white beard that gave him the majesty

of Moses advanced for the purpose of ascertaining our wants.

"Had he any mutton-chops?" asked Bhima Gandharva in Hindustani, the

_lingua franca_ of the country.

"Cherisher of the humble! no."

"Any beefsteak?"

"Nourisher of the poor! no."

"Well, then, I _hear_ a chicken," said my friend, conclusively.

"O great king," said the Mohammedan, turning to me, "there _is_ a

chicken."

In a twinkling the cook caught the chicken: its head was turned toward

Mecca. Bismillah! O God the Compassionate, the Merciful! the poor

fowl's head flew off, and by the time we had made our ablutions supper

was ready.

Turning across the ridges to the north-eastward from Sipri, we were

soon making our way among the tanks and groves which lie about the

walls of Jhansi. Here, as at Poona, there was ever present to me a

sense of evil destinies, of blood, of treacheries, which seemed to

linger about the trees and the tanks like exhalations from the old

crimes which have stained the soil of the country. For Jhansi is in

the Bundelcund, and the Bundelcund was born in great iniquity. The

very name--which properly is _Bundelakhand,_ or "the country of the

Bundelas"--has a history thickly set about with the terrors of caste,

of murder and of usurpation. Some five hundred years ago a certain

Rajput prince, Hurdeo Sing, committed the unpardonable sin of marrying

a slave (_bundi_), and was in consequence expelled from the Kshatriya

caste to which he belonged. He fled with his disgrace into this

region, and after some years found opportunity at least to salve his

wounds with blood and power. The son of the king into whose land he

had escaped conceived a passion for the daughter of the slave wife.

It must needs have been a mighty sentiment, for the conditions which

Hurdeo Sing exacted were of a nature to try the strongest love. These

were, that the nuptial banquet should be prepared by the unmentionable

hands of the slave wife herself, and that the king and his court

should partake of it--a proceeding which would involve the loss of

their caste also. But the prince loved, and his love must have lent

him extraordinary eloquence, for he prevailed on his royal father to

accept the disgrace. If one could only stop here, and record that he

won his bride, succeeded his magnanimous old parent on the throne,

lived a long and happy life with his queen, and finally died regretted

by his loving people! But this is in the Bundelcund, and the facts

are, that the treacherous Hurdeo Sing caused opium to be secretly put

into all the dishes of the wedding-feast, and when the unsuspecting

revelers were completely stupefied by the drug had the whole party

assassinated, after which he possessed himself of the throne and

founded the Bundelcund.

One does not wonder that the hills and forests of such a land became

the hiding-places of the strangling Thugs, the home of the poisoning

Dacoits, the refuge of conspirators and insurgents and the terror of

Central India.

As for Jhansi, the district in whose capital we were now sojourning,

its people must have tasted many of the sorrows of anarchy and of

despotism even in recent times. It was appurtenant no long time ago to

the Bundela rajah of Ourcha: from him it passed by conquest into the

possession of the Peishwa. These small districts were all too handy

for being tossed over as presents to favorites: one finds them falling

about among the greedy subordinates of conquerors like nuts thrown out

to school-boys. The Peishwa gave Jhansi to a soubahdar: the British

government then appeared, and effected an arrangement by which the

soubahdar should retain it as hereditary rajah on the annual payment

of twenty-four thousand rupees. This so-called rajah, Ramchund Rao,

died without issue in 1835. Amid great disputes as to the succession

the British arbitrators finally decided in favor of Rugonath Rao; but

new quarrels straightway arose, a great cry being made that Rugonath

Rao was a leper, and that a leper ought not to be a rajah. His death

in some three years settled that difficulty, only to open fresh

ones among the conflicting claimants. These perplexing questions the

British finally concluded quite effectually by assuming charge of the

government themselves, though this was attended with trouble, for the

stout old mother of Ramchund Rao made armed resistance from the fort

or castellated residence of the rajahs, which stands on its great

rock overlooking the town of Jhansi. A commission finally decreed the

succession to Baba Gunghadar Rao, but retained the substantial power

until the revenues had recovered from the depression consequent upon

these anarchic disturbances.

[Illustration: BURIAL PLACE OF THE RAJAHS OF JHANSI.]

"At any rate," I said as Bhima Gandharva finished this narrative while

we were walking about the burial-place of the rajahs of Jhansi, and

occupying ourselves with tracing the curious admixture of Moslem with

Hindu architecture presented by the tombs, "these rajahs, if they

loved each other but little in life, appear to have buried each other

with proper enough observances: the cenotaphs are worthy of tenderer

remembrances."

"Yes," he said: "this part of India is everywhere a land of beautiful

tombs which enclose ugly memories. I recall one tomb, however, near

which I have spent many hours of tranquil meditation, and which is

at once lovely without and within: it is the tomb of the Muslim saint

Allum Sayed at Baroda. It was built of stones taken from an old Jain

temple whose ruins are still visible near by; and with a singular

fitness, in view of its material, the Muslim architect has mingled

his own style with the Hindu, so that an elegant union of the keen

and naked Jain asceticism with the mellower and richer fancy of the

luxurious Mohammedan has resulted in a perfect work of that art which

makes death lovely by recalling its spiritual significance. Besides,

a holy silence broods about the cactus and the euphorbian foliage,

so that a word will send the paroquets, accustomed to such unbroken

stillness, into hasty flights. The tomb proper is in the chamber at

the centre, enclosed by delicately-trellised walls of stone. I can

easily fancy that the soul of Allum Sayed is sitting by his grave,

like a faithful dog loath to quit his dead master.

[Illustration: TOMB OF ALLUM SAYED.]

Jhansi was once in the enjoyment of a considerable trade. The caravans

from the Deccan to Furruckabad and other places in the Douab were

in the habit of stopping here, and there was much trafficking in the

cloths of Chanderi and in bows, arrows and spears--the weapons of the

Bundela tribes--which were here manufactured. Remnants of the wealth

then acquired remain; and on the evening of the same day when we were

wandering among the rajahs' tombs we proceeded to the house of a rich

friend of Bhima Gandharva's, where we were to witness a _nautch_, or

dance, executed by a wandering troop of Mewati bayadères. We arrived

about nine o'clock: a servant sprinkled us with rose-water, and we

were ushered into a large saloon, where the bayadères were seated with

a couple of musicians, one of whom played the tam-tam and another

a sort of violin. When the family of our host, together with a few

friends, were seated at the end of the room opposite the bayadères,

the signal was given, and the music commenced with a soft and

indescribably languorous air. One of the bayadères rose with a lithe

and supple movement of the body not comparable to anything save the

slow separating of a white scud from the main cloud which one sees

on a summer's day high up in the cirrus regions. She was attired in a

short jacket, a scarf, and a profusion of floating stuff that seemed

at once to hide and expose. Presently I observed that her jewelry was

glittering as it does not glitter when one is still, yet her feet

were not moving. I also heard a gentle tinkling from her anklets and

bracelets. On regarding her more steadily, I saw that her whole body

was trembling in gentle and yet seemingly intense vibrations, and she

maintained this singular agitation while she assumed an attitude

of much grace, extending her arms and spreading out her scarf in

gracefully-waving curves. In these slow and languid changes of

posture, which accommodated themselves to the music like undulations

in running water to undulations in the sand of its bed, and in the

strange trembling of her body, which seemed to be an inner miniature

dance of the nerves, consisted her entire performance. She intensified

the languid nature of her movements by the languishing coquetries of

her enormous black eyes, from which she sent piercing glances

between half-closed lids. It was a dance which only southern peoples

understand. Any one who has ever beheld the _slow juba_ of the negro

in the Southern United States will recognize its affinity to these

movements, which, apparently deliberate, are yet surcharged with

intense energy and fire.

[Illustration: MEWATI DANCING-GIRL.]

Her performance being finished, the bayadère was succeeded by others,

each of whom appeared to have her specialty--one imitating by her

postures a serpent-charmer; another quite unequivocally representing

a man-charmer; another rapidly executing what seemed an interminable

pirouette. Finally, all joined in a song and a closing round, adding

the sound of clapping hands to the more energetic measures of the

music.

"I can now understand," I said when the nautch was finished, "the

remark of the shah of Persia which set everybody laughing not long ago

in England. During his visit to that country, being present at a ball

where ladies and gentlemen were enjoying themselves in a somewhat

laborious way in dancing, he finally asked, 'Why do you not make

your servants do this for you?' It is at least entertaining to see

a nautch, but to wade through the English interpretation of a waltz,

_hic labor hoc opus est_, and the servants _ought_ to perform it."

"Do you know," said Bhima Gandharva, "that much the same national mode

of thought which prompts the Hindu to have his dancing done by the

nautch-girls also prompts him to have his tax-gathering and general

governing done by the English? We are often asked why the spectacle

has so often been seen of our native princes quietly yielding up their

kingdoms to strangers, and even why we do not now rise and expel the

foreigner from power over us. The truth is, most Hindus are only

glad to get some one else to do the very hard work of governing. The

Englishman is always glad to get a French cook, because the French can

cook better than the English. Why should not we be also glad to get

English governors, when the English govern so much better than the

Hindus? In truth, governing and cooking are very like--the successful

ruler, like the successful cook, has only to consult the tastes of his

employers; and upon any proper theory of politics government becomes

just as purely an economic business as cooking. You do not cook your

own dinner: why? Because you desire to devote your time to something

better and higher. So we do not collect taxes and lay them out for the

public convenience, because there are other things we prefer to do. I

am amazed at the modern ideas of government: it is looked upon as an

end, as an objective result in itself, whereas it is really only

the merest of means toward leaving a man at leisure to attend to his

private affairs. The time will come"--and here the Hindu betrayed more

energy than I had hitherto ever seen him display--"when the world will

have its whole governing work done upon contract by those best fitted

for it, and when such affairs will be looked upon as belonging simply

to the police function of existence, which negatively secures us from

harm, without at all positively touching the substantial advancement

of man's life."

The next day we fared northward toward Agra, by Duttiah, Gwalior and

Dholepore. Learning at Agra that the northward-bound train--for

here we had come upon complete civilization again in the East Indian

Railway--would pass in an hour, we determined to reserve the Taj

Mahal (the lovely Pearl Mosque of Agra) until we should be returning

from Delhi to Calcutta. Bhima Gandharva desired me, however, to see

the Douab country and the old sacred city of Mattra; and so when we

had reached Hatras Station, a few miles north of Agra, we abandoned

the railway and struck across to the south-westward, toward Mattra, in

a hired carriage.

We were now veritably in ancient Hindustan. It was among these level

plains through which we were rolling that the antique Brahmins came

and propounded that marvelous system which afterward took the whole

heart of the land. Nothing could have been more striking than to cast

one's eye thus over the wide cotton-fields--for one associates cotton

with the New--and find them cultivated by these bare-legged and

breech-clouted peasants of the Douab, with ploughs which consisted

substantially of a crooked stick shod with iron at the end, and with

other such farming-implements out of the time that one thinks of

as forty centuries back. Yet in spite of this primitive rudeness

of culture, and of an aridity of soil necessitating troublesome

irrigation, these plains have for a prodigious period of time

supported a teeming population; and I could not help crying out to

Bhima Gandharva that if we had a few millions of these gentle and

patient peasants among the cotton-fields of the United States, the

South would quickly become a Garden of Delight and the planters could

build Jammah Masjids with rupees for marble.

[Illustration: PEASANTS OF THE DOUAB.]

The conservatism which has preserved for so long a time the ancient

rude methods of industry begins to grow on one as one passes between

these villages of people who seem to be living as if they were

perfectly sure that God never intended them to live any other way.

"It is not long," said my friend, "since a British officer of

engineers, on some expedition or other, was encamped for the night

at no great distance from here. His tent had been pitched near one of

those Persian water-wheels such as you have seen, which, although of

great antiquity, are perhaps as ingeniously adapted to the purpose of

lifting water as any machine ever invented. The creaking of the wheel

annoyed him very much, and after a restless night, owing to that

cause, he rose and went out of his tent and inquired of the proprietor

of the wheel (a native) why in the name of Heaven he never greased it.

'Because,' said the conservative Hindu, 'I have become so accustomed

to the noise that I can only sleep soundly while it is going on: when

it stops, then I wake, and knowing from the cessation of the sound

that my bullock-driver is neglecting his duty, I go out and beat him.'

Thus, even the conservation of the useless comes in time to create

habits which are useful."

"It is true," I replied, "and it recalls to me a somewhat unusual

illustration. A summer or two ago a legal friend of mine, who is the

possessor of a large family of children, came into the court-room one

morning with very red eyes, and to my inquiry concerning the cause

of the same he replied: 'To tell you the truth, I can't go to sleep

unless a child is crying about the house somewhere; but my wife left

town yesterday for the summer with all the children, and I haven't had

a wink the whole night.'"

A drive of some five hours brought us to Mattra after dark, and as we

crossed the bridge of boats over the sacred Jumna (the _Yamuna_ of the

Sanscrit poems) he seemed indeed thrice holy, with his bosom full

of stars. Mattra, which lies immediately on the western bank of the

river, stands next to Benares among the holy cities of the Hindus:

here both the soil and the river-water are consecrated, for this was

the birthplace of Krishna, or, more properly speaking, the scene of

that avatar of Vishnu which is known as Krishna. When we rose early in

the morning and repaired to the river-bank, hundreds of the faithful

were ascending and descending the numerous ghâts leading down the high

bank to the water, while a still more animated crowd of both sexes

were standing up to their middle in the stream, throwing the water in

this direction and that, and mingling their personal ablutions with

the rites of worship in such a way as might at once clean both

souls and bodies. Evidences of the holy character of the town met

us everywhere as we strolled back to our lodgings. Sacred monkeys,

painted red over their hind quarters in consecration to the monkey-god

Hanuman, capered and grinned about us, and sacred bulls obstructed

our way along the narrow and dirty streets, while everywhere we saw

pictures representing Krishna--sometimes much like an Apollo in the

guise of a youthful shepherd playing the flute to a group of young

girls, who danced under a tree; sometimes as a Hercules strangling a

serpent or performing other feats of physical strength.

Fabulous stories are told of the early wealth and glory of Mattra.

Ferishta relates that when Mahmoud of Ghazni had arrived with his

troops in the neighborhood in the year 1017, he heard of this rich

city consecrated to Krishna Vasu-Deva, and straightway marching upon

it captured it and gave it up to plunder. Writing of it afterward to

the governor of Ghazni, he declared that such another city could not

be built within two centuries; that it contained one thousand edifices

"as firm as the faith of the faithful," and mostly built of marble;

that among the temples had been found five golden idols in whose heads

were ruby eyes worth fifty thousand dinars; that in another was a

sapphire weighing four hundred _miskals_ (the present _miskal_ of

Bosrah is seventy-two grains), the image itself producing, after being

melted, ninety-eight thousand three hundred _miskals_ of pure gold;

and that besides these there were captured one hundred silver idols,

each of which was a camel's load.

We spent a pleasant morning in wandering about the old ruined

fort which was built here by Jey Singh (or Jaya Sinha), the famous

astronomer, and we were particularly attracted, each in his own

contemplative and quiet way, by the ruins of an observatory which we

found on the roof of one of the buildings, where the remains of old

dials, horizontal circles and mural instruments lay scattered about.

I think the only remark made by either of us was when Bhima Gandharva

declared in a voice of much earnestness, from behind a broken gnomon

where he had ensconced himself, that he saw Time lying yonder on his

back, with his head on a broken dial, nearly asleep.

[Illustration: HINDU BANKERS OF DELHI.]

Returning to Hatras Station on the same day, we again took the train,

and this time did not leave it until we had crossed the great tubular

bridge over the Jumna and come to a standstill in the station at

Delhi. Here we found one of the apparently innumerable friends of

Bhima Gandharva, a banker of Delhi, awaiting us with a carriage, and

we were quickly driven to his residence--a circumstance, by the way,

which I discovered next day to be a legitimate matter of felicitation

to myself, for there is, strange to say, no hotel in Delhi for

Europeans, travelers being dependent upon the accommodations of a

_dâk_-bungalow, where one is lodged for a rupee a day.

In the morning we made an early start for the palace of the padishahs,

which stands near the river, and indeed may be said to constitute the

eastern portion of the city, having a wall of a mile in extent on its

three sides, while the other abuts along the offset of the Jumna upon

which Delhi is built. Passing under a splendid Gothic arch in the

centre of a tower, then along a vaulted aisle in the centre of which

was an octagonal court of stone, the whole route being adorned with

flowers carved in stone and inscriptions from the Koran, we finally

gained the court of the palace, in which is situated the Dewani Khas,

the famous throne-room which contained the marvelous "peacock throne."

I found it exteriorly a beautiful pavilion of white marble crowned by

four domes of the same material, opening on one side to the court,

on the other to the garden of the palace. On entering, my eye was

at first conscious only of a confused interweaving of traceries and

incrustations of stones, nor was it until after a few moments that I

could bring myself to any definite singling out of particular elements

from the general dream of flowing and intricate lines; but presently

I was enabled to trace with more discriminating pleasure the flowers,

the arabesques, the inscriptions which were carved or designed in

incrustations of smaller stones, or inlaid or gilt on ceiling, arch

and pillar.

Yet what a sense of utter reverse of fortune comes upon one after the

first shock of the beauty of these delicate stone fantasies! Wherever

we went--in the Dewani Aum or hall of audience; in the Akbari Hammun

or imperial baths; in the Sammam Burj or private palace of the

padishahs, that famous and beautiful palace over whose gate the

well-known inscription stands, "If there is a Paradise on earth, it

is here;" in the court, in the garden--everywhere was abandonment,

everywhere the filthy occupations of birds, everywhere dirt, decay,

desolation.

It was therefore a prodigious change when, emerging from the main gate

of the palace, we found ourselves in the great thoroughfare of Delhi,

the Chandni Chowk (literally "Shining street"), which runs straight to

the Lahore gate of the city. Here an immense number of daily affairs

were transacting themselves, and the Present eagerly jostled the Past

out of the road. The shops were of a size which would have seemed very

absurd to an enterprising American tradesman, and those dealing in

the same commodities appeared to be mostly situated together--here the

shoemakers, there the bankers, and so on.

The gold-embroidered cloths--Delhi is famous for them--made me think

of those embroidered in stone which we had just seen in the Dewani

Khas. These people seem to dream in curves and flowing lines, as the

German dreams in chords and meandering tones, the Italian in colors

and ripe forms.

("And as the American--?" said Bhima Gandharva with a little smile as

we were walking down the Chandni Chowk.

"The American does not dream--yet," I answered.)

[Illustration: THE GRAND HALL OF THE DEWANI KHAS IN THE PALACE OF

DELHI.]

We saw much of the embroidered fabrics known as "kincob" (properly,

_kunkhwab_) and "kalabatu;" and Bhima Gandharva led me into an inner

apartment where a _nakad_ was manufacturing the gold thread (called

_kalabatoon_) for these curious loom embroideries. The kalabatoon

consists of gold wire wound about a silk thread; and nothing could

better illustrate the deftness of the Hindu fingers than the motions

of the workman whom we saw. Over a polished steel hook hung from the

ceiling the end of a reel of slightly twisted silk thread was passed.

This end was tied to a spindle with a long bamboo shank, which was

weighted and nearly reached the floor. Giving the shank of the spindle

a smart roll along his thigh, the workman set it going with great

velocity: then applying to the revolving thread the end of a quantity

of gold wire which was wound upon a different reel, the gold wire

twisted itself in with the silk thread and made a length of kalabatoon

about as long as the workman. The kalabatoon was then reeled off on a

separate reel, and the process continually repeated.

We stopped at the office of our banker for a moment on our way along

the Chandni Chowk in order to effect some changes of money. As we were

leaving, Bhima Gandharva inquired if I had observed the young man in

the red cotton turban who had politely broken off in our favor a long

negotiation with our banker, which he resumed when we had finished our

little business.

"Of course I did," I replied. "What a beautiful young man he was!

His aquiline nose, his fair complexion, his brilliant eyes, his

lithe form, his intelligent and vivacious expression,--all these

irresistibly attracted me to him."

"Ha!" said Bhima Gandharva, as if he were clearing his throat. He

grasped my arm: "Come, I thought I saw the young man's father standing

near the door as we passed out. I wonder if _he_ will irresistibly

attract you?" He made me retrace my steps to the banker's office:

"There he is."

He was the image of the son in feature, yet his face was as repulsive

as his son's was beautiful: the Devil after the fall, compared with

the angel he was before it, would have presented just such a contrast.

"They are two Vallàbhácháryas," said my companion as we walked away.

"You know that the trading community of India, comprehended under

the general term of Baniahs, is divided into numerous castes, which

transmit their avocations from father to son and preserve themselves

free from intermixture with others. The two men you saw are probably

on some important business negotiation connected with Bombay or the

west of India; for they are Bhattias, who are also followers of

the most singular religion the world has ever known--that of the

Vallàbháchárya or Maharaja sect. These are Epicureans who have quite

exceeded, as well in their formal creeds as in their actual practices,

the wildest dreams of any of those mortals who have endeavored to

make a religion of luxury. They are called Vallàbhácháryas, from

_Vallabha_, the name of their founder, who dates from 1479, and

_áchárya_, a "leader." Their _Pushti Marga_, or eat-and-drink

doctrine, is briefly this: In the centre of heaven (_Gouloka_) sits

Krishna, of the complexion of a dark cloud, clad in yellow, covered

with unspeakable jewels, holding a flute. He is accompanied by Roaha,

his wife, and also by three hundred millions of Gopis, or female

attendants, each of whom has her own palace and three millions of

private maids and waiting-women. It appears that once upon a time two

over-loving Gopis quarreled about the god, and, as might be expected

in a place so given over to love, they fell from heaven as a

consequence. Animated by love for them, Krishna descended from heaven,

incarnated himself in the form of Vallabha (founder of the sect), and

finally redeemed them. Vallabha's descendants are therefore all gods,

and reverence is paid them as such, the number of them being now sixty

or seventy. To God belong all things--_Tan_ (the body), _Man_ (the

mind) and _Dhan_ (earthly possessions). The Vallàbhácháryas therefore

give up all first to be enjoyed by their god, together with his

descendants (the Maharajas, as they royally term themselves) and

his representatives, the gosains or priestly teachers. Apply these

doctrines logically, and what a carnival of the senses results! A few

years ago one Karsandas Mulji, a man of talent and education, was sued

for libel in the court at Bombay by this sect, whose practices he

had been exposing. On the trial the evidence revealed such a mass

of iniquity, such a complete subversion of the natural proprietary

feelings of manhood in the objects of its love, such systematic

worship of beastly sin, as must for ever give the Vallàbhácháryas

pre-eminence among those who have manufactured authority for crime out

of the laws of virtue. For the Vallàbhácháryas derive their scriptural

sanction from the eighth book of the _Bhagavata Purana_, which they

have completely falsified from its true meaning in their translation

called the _Prem Sagar_, or "Ocean of Love." You saw the son? In

twenty years--for these people cannot last long--trade and cunning

and the riot of all the senses will have made him what you saw the

father."

[Illustration: THE JAMMAH MASJID AT DELHI.]

On the next day we visited the Jammah Masjid, the "Great Mosque" of

Shah Jehan the renowned, and the glory of Delhi. Ascending the flight

of steps leading to the principal entrance, we passed under the lofty

arch of the gateway and found ourselves in a great court four hundred

and fifty feet square, paved with red stone, in the centre of which

a large basin supplied by several fountains contained the water for

ceremonial ablutions. On three sides ran light and graceful arcades,

while the fourth was quite enclosed by the mass of the mosque proper.

Crossing the court and ascending another magnificent flight of

stone steps, our eyes were soon commanding the façade of the great

structure, and reveling in those prodigious contrasts of forms and

colors which it presents. No building could, for this very reason,

suffer more from that lack of simultaneity which is involved in any

description by words; for it is the vivid shock of seeing, in one

stroke of the eye, these three ripe and luxuriant domes (each of which

at the same time offers its own subsidiary opposition of white and

black stripes), relieved by the keen heights of the two flanking

minarets,--it is this, together with the noble admixtures of reds,

whites and blacks in the stones, crowned by the shining of the gilded

minaret-shafts, which fills the eye of the beholder with a large

content of beautiful form and color.

As one's eye becomes cooler one begins to distinguish in the front,

which is faced with slabs of pure white marble, the divisions adorned

by inscriptions from the Koran inlaid in letters of black marble,

and the singularly airy little pavilions which crown the minarets. We

ascended one of the minarets by a winding staircase of one hundred

and thirty steps, and here, while our gaze took flight over Delhi and

beyond, traversing in a second the achievements of many centuries

and races, Bhima Gandharva told me of the glories of old Delhi.

Indranechta--as Delhi appears in the fabulous legends of old India,

and as it is still called by the Hindus--dates its own birth as far

back as three thousand years before our era. It was fifty-seven years

before the time of Christ that the name of Delhi began to appear in

history. Its successive destructions (which a sketch like this cannot

even name) left enormous quantities of ruins, and as its successive

rebuildings were accomplished by the side of (not upon) these remains,

the result has been that from the garden of Shahlimar, the site of

which is on the north-west of the town, to beyond the Kantab Minar,

whose tall column I could plainly distinguish rising up nine miles

off to the south-west, the plain of Delhi presents an accumulation and

variety of ruins not to be surpassed in the whole world.

LIFE-SAVING STATIONS.

With their enthusiasm fairly kindled for the work which the government

carries on in the signal-service department of the little house on the

beach,[A] our exploring party descended the narrow ladder and found

themselves in a ten-by-twelve room, warmed by a stove and surrounded

by benches. It is used, the old captain who has volunteered as guide

tells us, by the men on the life-saving service during the nine months

in which they are on duty. A cheerful fire was burning in the stove,

and we gathered about it: the wind blew a stronger gale each moment

outside, barring out the far sea-horizon with a wall of gray mist. The

tide rolled up on the shelving beach beneath the square window with a

sullen, treacherous roar.

"It's the bar that gives the sea that sound," said the captain. "This

is the ugliest bit of coast for vessels from Nova Scotia to Florida.

It's like this," drawing his finger across the table in the

vain effort to map out the matter intelligibly to a landsman's

comprehension. "Here's the Jersey coast. You've got to hug it close

with your vessel to make New York harbor--there; and all along it,

from Sandy Hook to Cape May, runs the bar--so. Broken, but so much the

worse. A nor'-easter drives you on it, sure. I've known from sixteen

to twenty wracks in a winter on this coast before the companies or

government took up the matter."

[Footnote A: See the article entitled "The House on the Beach," in

_Lippincott's Magazine_ for January. Since the publication of that

paper a letter of distinction has been received by General Albert J.

Myer from the International Congress of Geographical Sciences, held

in Paris in 1875, which states that the United States signal service

appeared to the Congress to deserve an exceptional reward. "This

service, so remarkably organized, has been the cause of such progress

in meteorological science that the distinctions provided by the

regulations of the Congress would not be commensurate for it." The

letter of distinction was therefore sent as the highest award decreed

by the Congress.]

"That only argued bad seamanship," said one of his listeners. "When

every ship's captain knew the bar--"

"That's precisely what they didn't know. It alters with every year;

and on a dark night, with a driving sea and wind both against you,

there's small chance of clearing it. However, I don't mean to say

that all of them vessels were wracked fair and square. It got to be

customary with owners of wornout coast-schooners to send them out with

light cargoes and run them on the Jersey bar. The captain and crew

would time it so's they could get ashore, and the sea would soon break

up the vessel, and then up they goes to York for insurance on ship and

cargo. There was a good deal of that sort of work went on when I was

a boy, until the underwriters got wind of it and established the

wracking system."

"This building?--"

"No, no! Don't confound the two things. This is government work

altogether, and maintained solely for the saving of life. The crew

of the lifeboat here are not allowed to touch a pound of freight or

baggage on a wracked ship. The wracking-masters were appointed and

paid by the board of underwriters in New York. Old Captain Brown was

general agent on this beach. They took the coast in charge, as you

might say, long before this government service was started. It was

managed--like this," resorting again to his finger and the imaginary

lines on the table. "A vessel came ashore on the bar. The first man

who saw it gave warning to the wracking-master, who took command of

the men ashore and the cargo in behalf of the insurance companies."

"Were there any signals then to rouse the coast in case of wreck?"

"Lord save you! no: every man warned his neighbor. There weren't but a

few scattered folks along the coast then, but in time of a wrack you'd

see them in the dead of night ready and waiting along the beach. No

need of your signal-flags for them, I reckon. They knew there'd be

dead men and plenty of wrack coming ashore before morning."

"And every man was ready to go out in his boat?" cried an enthusiastic

townsman, "or to carry a line to the sinking ship?"

"Well--hardly," said the captain with a dry smile. "Folks that

know the water don't go exactly that way to work. There was regular

wracking-boats, built for the surf, and crews for each, you see: best

man in the starn. The man in the starn, he generally owned the boat

and chose his crew. Picked men. He kept them year after year. Then the

wracking-masters hired him, his boat and his crew. Best crew chosen

first, of course. Two dollars a day each was reckoned good pay. They

got famous names, some of them surfboat crews," reflectively. "There

was William Chadwick--Bill Shattuck he goes by--his crew was known

from Sandy Hook to Hatteras. There's one of them now: he can tell you

about it better than me.--Hello, Jake!"

We looked out of the window and saw the fisherman whom we had met in

the afternoon lazily drawing his slow length along the beach, two

or three blue mackerel dangling from his hand: he had not enough of

energy, apparently, to hold them up. This was the fellow whom, an hour

before, we had pitied as a dull soul to whom the wreck was "timber"

and the life-saving station a "shed." We all had a vague ideal

before us of a gallant sailor, with eyes of fire and nerves of steel,

plunging into the cruel surf to rescue the sinking ship. We accepted

the slouching Jacob instead with disrelish. He was not the stuff of

which heroes in books are made.

"Jake," said the captain, "where is Shattuck's boat now? I was

speaking of it to the gentlemen here."

"Take a cigar," interpolated one of the party.

Jacob took a cigar, bit off the end and dropped easily into a

seat: "Bill's boat? Well, it's drawed up ashore at the head of

Barnegat--down there. You kin see it out of the window ef you like."

"There is very seldom any call for the surf-boats and crews in

summer," explained the captain. "The men follow fishing usually. But

in winter they're always ready if a ship comes on the bar."

"Your crew has done good service in saving life, I hear, Jacob?" said

one of the strangers.

"Well, I dunno. We're generally the first called on by the

wracking-master. Sure of the best pay. There's Shattuck and Curtis and

Van Note and George Johnson, and Fleming in the starn," checking them

off with his fingers--"all good men to bring off trade in a heavy

pull."

"You don't mean that these surf boat crews are paid to save the cargo,

and that human life is left to the care of the government?" cried a

listener indignantly.

"The government undertakes the life-saving service, and we're paid

by the wracking-master, certainly," said Jacob calmly. "To save the

cargo. But the human bein's is took out first. Of course. As you say.

It's not likely any man's a-goin' to bring trade out of a wrack's

long's there's a live critter aboard."

"There's not one of these men," said the captain with a little heat in

his tone, "who has not saved many a life at the risk of his own. Isn't

that true, Jacob?"

"I dunno. We jist work ahead at what's got to be done. I know Van Note

saved _my_ life. The way of it was this. It was the time the Clara

Brookman went down: you mind the Clara Brookman, cap'n? She was

homeward bound after a long cruise--three year--and she struck the bar

just below, a mile or two. It was a swashin' sea an' a black night.

Our surfboat was overturned with thirteen aboard: 'leven of us was

picked up by the other boat. The men, they stood in the starn an'

hauled us aboard by main force--lifted us clear out of the water. Van

Note's a tremendous musc'lar fellar, he is. He caught me by the wrist

jest as I was goin' down for the last time: I'm not a small fish,

either," slapping his brawny thigh. "Yes, sir. Van Note and I never

mixed much together afore or sence. But he did that for me: I don't

deny it."

"You remember some terrible scenes of suffering no doubt, Jacob?"

"Well, I've seen vessels pretty well smashed up, sir. There was the

Alabama, coast-schooner: all the crew went down on her in full sight;

and the Annandale: she was a coal-brig, and she run aground on a

December night. It was a terrible storm: but one surfboat got out to

her. They took off what they could--the women and part of the crew. I

was a boy then, and I mind seein' them come ashore, their beards and

clothes frozen stiff. After the boat left, some of the crew jumped

into the sea, but they couldn't live in it two minutes. It was nigh

dawn when the boat got out to the brig agen, and there wasn't a livin'

soul aboard of her; only the body of the mate lashed tight to the

mainmast, a solid mass of ice. He couldn't be got down, and I've heerd

my father say it was awful to see him, with one hand held out as if

p'intin' to shore, rockin' to and fro there overhead till the brig

went under. Months after, some of the bodies of the crew was thrown up

by the tide; they was as fresh as if they'd jest gone to sleep."

"How could that be? Where had they been?"

"Sucked into the sand. Them heavy nothe-easters always throws up a

bar, an' they was sucked under it. When the bar give way the tide

threw them up. But as soon as the air tetched them they began to

moulder."

There was a short silence. The evening was gathering fast, cold and

threatening, the little fire threw our shadows high up on the wall,

and the wail of the wind and thunder of the incoming tide gave a

ghastly significance to this matter-of-fact catalogue of horrors. As

we looked through the little window at the vast gray plain of water,

it seemed as if every wave covered a wreck or dead men's bones.

"Now, George Johnson," continued Jacob, "he was the first man as saw

the John Minturn come ashore. That was the worst storm I ever seen on

this coast.--You mind it, cap'n?"

The captain nodded gravely: "February 15, 1846. It was the night old

Phoebe Hall died, and I was sitting with the body when I heerd the

guns fired from the Minturn," he remarked.--"But go on, Jacob," waving

his pipe.

"The current was a-settin' south. Sech a tide hadn't been knowd sence

the oldest men could remember: the sea broke over all the mashes clear

up to the farm-houses. Well, sir, I was but a lad, but I couldn't

sleep: seemed as ef I ought to be a doin' something, I didn't rightly

know what. About three o'clock in the morning I heerd a gun, and in a

minute another, 'Mother,' I says, 'there's a vessel on the bar.' So,

as I gets on my clothes, she makes me a mug of hot coffee. 'You must

drink this, Jacob, an' eat some'at,' she says, 'before you go out.' So

to quiet her I takes the mug, but I hadn't half drunk it when I hears

shouting outside. It was one of the Shattucks: he says, 'There's a

ship come ashore up by Barnegat' I says, 'No,' I says: 'the guns are

from off the inlet.' So I runs one way, and Shattuck the other. The

night was dark as pitch, and the storm drivin' like hell. And we was

both right, for there was two vessels--a coast-schooner down by

Squan, where I goes, and this big ship, the John Minturn, just here,"

pointing with his thumb over his shoulder to the beach outside and bar

beyond.

"Were there many lives lost?"

"Over three hundred--all but fourteen. They come ashore tied on

to boards or hencoops or the like--seven of the crew and seven

passengers. We tried to launch the surfboat, but the boat was never

built that could live on that sea. She was bound from New Orleans to

New York, and the most of her passengers were wealthy people, going to

the North for the winter. At least, so we jedged from her papers and

the bodies and clothes of them that come ashore--some pretty

little children, I mind, babies and their black nurses, and their

mothers--delicate women with valooable rings on their hands. Some of

them's buried in the graveyard in the village, and their friends took

some away."

"There was the Minerva, too," said the captain as Jacob paused to

light his cigar again. "I forgit how many emigrants went down on that

ship, but I remember picking up on the beach next day a clay pipe,

with a stem nigh a yard long, not even chipped. It seemed curious that

a useless thing like that should be washed safe ashore and hundreds of

human lives be lost. And there was the New Era--went down near Deal:

three hundred emigrants drowned. The captain had nailed down the

hatches on them. Oh, that's generally done," he added, seeing the

look of horror on our faces: "in a storm the steerage can't be managed

otherwise."

"I remember," said one of the listeners, "an incident which occurred

when I was in China about ten years ago. Five hundred Chinese soldiers

were being taken across the Inland Sea to quell an insurrection:

when off Hoang-Ho the ship sprung a leak. The boats could only give a

chance of escape to about eighty. The troops were all ordered on deck,

while a detachment was selected to fill the boats. The rest remained

immovable, standing under arms without a word, until the ship went

down."

Somebody reminded him of the story of the Birkenhead, which sank

within four miles of the English coast with a regiment aboard that

was coming home after five years' absence in India. They too stood in

solid rank on deck, their homes almost in sight, while the women and

children were taken off and the ship slowly sank, the officers, with

swords drawn, presenting arms to Death.

"Discipline! discipline!" said the captain. "But one wouldn't have

looked for it in them heathen Chinees."

Duty! duty! we thought, and were quite sure heathenism had never

interfered with that kind of heroism.

"Now, the usual run of American sailors," said Jacob, who felt by

this time that his final verdict was needed, wouldn't have done

that. Passengers is easier managed in time of a storm than sailors,

especially them of coast-ships. Passengers is like sheep: they're so

skeert they'll do what you bids 'em; but the sailors broach the liquor

first thing. I'd rather manage so many pigs than sailors when they get

holt of the grog. There was the City of New York. When she went down

the mate stood with a club in his hand to keep the crew off the Scotch

ale which was part of the freight. Well; sir, they got it, and thar

they stayed, drinkin', till the vessel parted amidships: couldn't be

got off no-how. There was three hundred passengers landed from that

ship. We used the apparatus for her: government had taken hold of the

matter then."

"Before we say anything about the government service, one question

about the Jersey wreckers. They bear a bad name. The story goes that

the Barnegat pirates in old times drew vessels ashore by false lights,

and plundered the shipwrecked people. How about that, Jacob? Honestly,

now!"

"Well, sir, them stories is onjust. Them men as is called Barnegat

pirates are not us fishermen--never were: they're from the

main--colliers and sech--as come down to a wrack, and they will have

something to kerry home when they're kept up all night. They do their

share of stealin', I'll confess; but from Sandy Hook to Cape May

it's innocent to what is done on Long Island. It's the stevedores and

rigger-men on Long Island--reg'lar New York roughs. No man or woman

was ever robbed on this beach till they was dead. Of course I don't

mean their trunks and sech, but not the body. The Long Islanders cut

off the fingers of livin' people for rings, but the Barnegat men never

touch the body till it's dead. _No_, sir."

"And you understand," interposed the captain eagerly, "these Barnegat

robbers are a very different class from Jacob and the crews of surf

boats?"

"Certainly. We understand the noble work which these wrecking-crews

have done.--By the way, how do they choose their captain, Jacob--the

man in the stern, as you call him? The most brave, heroic fellow, I

suppose?"

"I dunno about that," with a perplexed air. "We don't calcoolate much

on heroism and sech: we choose the man that's got the best judgment of

the sea--a keerful, firm man. These six men hes got to obey him--hes

got to put their lives altogether in his hand, you see. They

don't want a headlong fellow: they want a man that knows the

water--thorough."

"Besides," added the captain, "it is as with any other business--the

best crew is surest of employment and pay. Each owner of a

wracking-boat chooses his men for their muscle and skill: and the

wracking-master chooses the best boat and crew. There's competition,

competition. On the contrary, the life-saving service, like all

other government work, for a good many years fell into the hands of

politicians: the superintendent was chosen because he had given some

help to his party, and he appointed his own friends as lifeboat-men,

often tavern loafers like himself. A harness-maker from Bricksburg

held the place of master of the station below here for years--a man

who probably never was in a boat, and certainly would not go in one in

a heavy sea."

"One would hardly expect to find fishermen in this solitary corner

of the world struggling for political preferment on the seats of a

lifeboat," laughed one of the party.

But the captain could see no joke in it: "Well, sir, it's a fact that

it was done. And the consequence was, the people's money was thrown

away, and hundreds of human beings was left to perish within sight of

land. If the administration--"

But while the captain and his companions labor over the well-trodden

road thus opened, we will look into the work done in the house on

the beach with the help of authorities more accurate than himself and

Jacob.

Oddly enough, the first effort anywhere to stop the enormous loss

of human life by shipwreck was made by that most selfish of rulers,

George IV., and the first lifeboat was built by a London coachmaker,

Lukin, who, it is said, had never seen the sea. After that other

models of lifeboats were produced in England, none of which proved

satisfactory until in 1850 the duke of Northumberland offered one

hundred guineas as a prize for the best model, which was gained by

James Beeching. A modification of his boat is now used by the

National Lifeboat Institution, to which the entire care of the English

life-saving service is committed. There is probably no object on which

the British nation has more zealously expended sentiment, enthusiasm

and money than this service, yet despite its grand record of work

done there can be no doubt that it has been grossly mismanaged, and

is ineffective to cope with the actual need. The roll of the National

Lifeboat Institution numbers names of the most noble, humane and

wealthy men and women in Great Britain; the queen is its patron; its

resources are amply sufficient; no pains have been spared to secure

the most scientific and perfect appliances. The whole work is made,

in a degree, a matter of sentiment--exalted and humane sentiment,

but, like all other emotional service, apt to be gusty and at times

unpractical. The man who saves human life is rewarded with silver or

gold medals: the individual lifeboats are themes of essays and song,

and when one wears out a tablet is raised with the record of its

services. It is the beautiful and touching custom, too, for mourners

to offer a memorial lifeboat to the memory of their dead, instead of a

painted window or a showy monument. But with all this genuine feeling

and actual expenditure of time and money the fact remains that the

loss of human life from shipwreck is five hundred per cent. larger

on the coast of Great Britain than on our own, although there are 242

stations on their comparatively small extent of shore, and but 104

on our whole Atlantic seaboard. In three cases of shipwreck on the

English coast in 1875 the loss of life was directly traceable to the

lack of some necessary appliance or to the absence of guards at the

stations. In one instance there were no means of telegraphing

for boats or aid: in the case of the Deutschland, as late as last

November, where the disaster occurred on a stretch of coast known as

the most dangerous in England (except that of Norfolk)--a spot where

shipwrecks have been numbered literally by thousands--there was no

lifeboat nor any means of taking a line to the ship. The secret of

these failures lies in the fact that the institution relies for its

work on spontaneous service and emotion, and is not, like ours, a

legalized, systematic business. No permanent force or watch is kept at

the stations: a reward of seven shillings is paid to anybody who gives

notice of a wreck to the coxswain of the boat. The crews of the boats

are volunteers, and if they do not happen to report themselves at the

time of a disaster, their places are filled with any good oarsmen who

offer. In short, the whole system is based upon the occasional zeal

and heroism of men, instead of tried and paid skill, fitness for the

work and a simple sense of duty.

Our own life-saving service is founded on wholly different principles.

It dates from 1848, when Hon. William Newell of New Jersey (incited

probably by the recent terrible loss of the John Minturn, of which the

captain told us) brought before Congress the frightful dangers of the

coast of that State, and procured an appropriation of ten thousand

dollars for "providing surf boats, carronades, etc. for the better

protection of life and property from shipwreck on the coast between

Sandy Hook and Little Egg Harbor." The next session a similar

appropriation was obtained. Small houses were built and furnished,

but no persons were paid or authorized to take charge of them, and the

business was managed in the well-meaning but slipshod English fashion.

In 1854 the wreck of the Powhatan on Squan Beach and the loss of three

hundred lives produced a storm of public indignation which aroused

Congress, and twenty thousand dollars were appropriated for lifeboats,

etc. for the coast of New Jersey, and a similar sum for the ocean side

of Long Island. A superintendent was appointed for each coast and a

keeper for each of the houses, but for sixteen years no regular crews

were employed. It was during this period, too, that the petty offices

of superintendent and keeper became the reward of small village

politicians, and wreckers who, like Jacob, had worked for years

without pay in saving human life, showed their righteous indignation

at these political favorites by refusing to work under them. Several

terrible disasters in the winter of 1870 and '71 called public

attention again to the subject, and Captain John Faunce was appointed

by the department to inspect the coast and the stations. He reported

the houses as generally in a filthy, dilapidated condition, and often

so far gone as to be worthless; the apparatus rusty, and many of the

most necessary articles wanting; in some stations nothing which could

be carried away was left; the keepers were utterly unfit for

their position, and the crews which they employed worse. Yet,

notwithstanding this mismanagement and lack of system, and although no

regular official record had been kept, there was proof that 4163 lives

had been saved and $716,000 worth of property.

In 1871, S.I. Kimball, to whom the Revenue Marine Bureau was then

given in charge, proceeded to completely reorganize the service. New

houses were built or the old ones repaired and enlarged; competent men

were appointed as keepers, and strict orders given as to the selection

of experienced and skillful surfmen as crews; the houses were

thoroughly furnished with every appliance requisite in time of

disaster, for which the keeper is held responsible. The average

distance between the stations is three miles. Immediate proof of

the efficacy of the improvements in the service was given, as in the

twenty-two wrecks occurring that season on the Long Island and New

Jersey coasts not a single life was lost. In a word, Mr. Kimball began

successfully the seemingly hopeless task of converting the dirty,

ruinous station-houses and their lazy, disorderly keepers and crews,

scattered along the coast, to the order, discipline and efficiency

of forts and drilled soldiers, and the result proved that order and

discipline, when evolved out of the worst materials, can grapple with

and conquer even the sea. In 1873 the seventy-one station-houses

were increased to eighty-one, the line having been extended along the

coasts of Cape Cod and Rhode Island. Congress having appropriated

one hundred thousand dollars for the establishment of new stations,

twenty-three were contracted for, giving the Maine coast five; New

Hampshire, one; Massachusetts, five; Virginia, two; North Carolina,

ten. The connection between the life-saving and storm-signal

service was effected at several stations, thus supplying telegraphic

communication between the department and the coast outposts. This,

probably, was the most marked advance made by the service: it was

the nerve-line which brought the working members under control of an

intelligent head. In thirty-two wrecks occurring during the year on

the coasts where stations were established but one life had been lost.

The unprecedented success of the service to this point justified its

demand for larger means and fuller powers. In the last session of

the Forty-second Congress a bill was introduced by Hon. John Lynch of

Maine to provide for the establishment of additional stations on the

North Atlantic seaboard, and directing the Secretary of the Treasury

to report the points on the entire sea and lake coasts at which

stations would best subserve the interests of humanity and commerce,

with estimates of the cost. This bill passed, and was approved March

3, 1873. The commission appointed consisted of Mr. Kimball, Captain

John Faunce and Captain J.H. Merryman. Their report is the result

of minute examination into the wrecks and disasters on every mile of

coast for the previous ten years--a research into ghastly horrors for

a practical end unparalleled perhaps in accuracy and patience.

They recommended the erection of twenty-three life-saving stations

complete, twenty-two lifeboat stations and five houses of refuge. The

first class, containing all appliances for saving life on stranded

vessels, and manned by regular crews during the winter months, were

for flat beaches with outlying bars distant from settlements, and were

required on certain points of the shores of the great lakes and on the

Atlantic coast as far south as Hatteras. "Upon the coast of Florida

the shores are so bold," the report states, "that stranded vessels are

usually thrown high enough upon the beach to permit easy escape from

them; therefore the usual apparatus belonging to the complete stations

are not considered necessary. The section of that coast from Indian

River Inlet to Cape Florida is almost destitute of inhabitants, and

persons cast upon its inhospitable shores are liable to perish

from starvation and thirst, from inability to reach the remote

settlements." Upon these coasts it was recommended that houses

of refuge should be built large enough to accommodate twenty-five

persons, supplied with provisions to support them for ten days, and

provided with surfboat, oars and sails. For the majority of points

on the Pacific and lake coasts, where disasters were infrequent,

lifeboats only were considered necessary, these in general to be

manned by volunteer crews. It was proposed that these crews should

be paid for services rendered at each wreck, and a system of rewards

adopted in the shape of medals of honor. The estimated cost of a

life-saving station complete was $5302; of a house of refuge, $2995;

of a lifeboat station, $4790. A bill founded on this report was

prepared by Mr. Kimball, the chief both of the Revenue Marine and

Life-saving Service, and became a law June, 1874. This bill provides

for the protection of the entire lake and sea-coasts of the United

States by a cordon of stations, lifeboats or houses of refuge placed

at all dangerous points. The stations on the Pacific coast are not yet

built, but it is hoped that all will be finished and in working

order by the fall of 1876. The United States will then offer to the

shipwrecked voyager security and protection through her vast extent of

coast such as is afforded by no other nation. The measures promoting

this end were carried through Congress by Senators Newell, Stockton,

Hamlin, Boutwell, Chandler and Frelinghuysen, and Representatives

Lynch, Hale of Maine, Cox, Hooper and Conger. But the actual credit of

this great national work of humanity is due to Sumner I. Kimball, who

not only conceived the idea of the complete guarding of the coast and

prepared the bill for Congress, but has reorganized the entire

system and carried it out successfully in all of its minute practical

details.

The work accomplished by the service may be clearly understood by a

glance at the following figures. There is no record of the loss of

life on stranded vessels previous to its formation in 1848. There

remain only the terrible legends, such as those which the captain and

Jacob told us, of numbers of emigrant ships and steamers yearly going

down with three to four hundred souls on board. The coasts of Long

Island and New Jersey have justly been called "the despair of mariners

and shipowners." During the first twenty years of the operation of the

service, despite its mismanagement, the number of lives lost yearly

was reduced to an average of twenty-five. Since 1871 the period of its

reorganization, the loss of life on the coasts of New Jersey and

Long Island has averaged but one per annum. The report for these four

years, inclusive of the whole coast guarded by stations, is--

Total number of disasters, 185

Total number of lives imperiled, 2583

Total number of lives saved, 2564

Total number of lives lost, 19

Total number of shipwrecked persons sheltered

at the stations, 368

Total number of days' shelter afforded, 1307

Total value of property imperiled, $6,293,658

Total value of property saved, 4,514,756

Total value of property lost, 1,742,902

Included in this report are the fourteen lives lost on the Italian

bark Giovanni near Provincetown, Cape Cod, in a storm unprecedented

for its terrors. A story found its way into the papers at the time

that the powder used in the mortar was damp, and that from this

trifling neglect help could not be extended from the station. A strict

investigation was made, and it was proved by the testimony of the

people in Provincetown that all the apparatus was in perfect order and

the keepers and surfmen exerted themselves heroically in aid of the

doomed vessel, but that she was stranded so far from shore that it

was simply impossible to reach her. In another case, that of the

Vicksburg, wrecked on the Long Island coast, where a life was lost

through the remissness of the keeper, the whole force of the station

was discharged, and the order to that effect read to every crew in the

service.

The localities of the stations and houses of refuge now legally

authorized are--

Districts. Location. Stations.

1st. Coasts of Maine and New Hampshire, 6

2d. Coast of Massachusetts, 14

3d. Coasts of Long Island and Rhode Island, 36

4th. Coast of New Jersey, 39

5th. Coasts of Delaware, Maryland and Virginia, 8

6th. Coasts of Virginia and North Carolina, 10

7th. Eastern coast of Florida, 5[A]

8th. Coasts of Lakes Ontario and Erie, 9

9th. Coasts of Lakes Huron and Superior, 9

10th. Coast of Lake Michigan, 12

11th. Pacific coast, 8

[Footnote A: Houses of refuge.]

While we have been looking into these facts and figures the exploring

party in the house on the beach have told many a terrible tale of

shipwreck and half-hinted horrors, among others that of the ill-fated

Giovanni.

"Suppose that a ship should be driven on this bar in the middle of the

night, a storm raging," said one of the party, "what would then be the

keeper's duty?"

The captain threw open the door of the larger room, which in the

fading light looked full, but for a moment only, of ghostly shadows.

There we saw boats suspended halfway from the ceiling, other

mysterious apparatus ranged on either side, anchors, great cables

coiled accurately in heaps, and all in as exact neatness as though

upon the deck of a man-of-war.

"When a wrack is sighted," said the captain, "the signal-officer up

stairs telegraphs to the other near stations, whose keepers at once

send their lifeboats, cars and surfmen here. The ship is signaled--by

flags in daytime, by rockets at night." He opened a closet in which

were arranged the cases of lights, with books of instruction for

their use. "The keepers ought to understand these as well as all other

apparatus in the station, and under the new management they usually

do. The keeper here is an old wracker, and has 'good judgment of

the sea,' as Jacob would say. _He_ never made harness or friends in

Congress," the captain threw in with fine satire. "If the ship can

be reached by a boat, this lifeboat is run into the surf. It moves on

wheels, you see, and in two minutes ought to be launched and the men

aboard. This ridge on the outside is an air-tight chamber for giving

buoyancy. Here are the oars swung in place and the buckets for

bailing, as you see."

"Is this the English lifeboat?"

"No, sir. Two years ago the service imported a lifeboat and rocket

apparatus from England to test them here. The lifeboat was found to be

nearly perfect, but too heavy for launching on our flat beaches with

light crews: she weighed four thousand pounds. This boat was invented

by Lieutenant Stodder."

"But if the sea be too heavy for the lifeboat to live in it?"

"Then we give the ship a line: the ball is fired from this mortar, the

line being fastened to the shot by a spiral wire. Mortar, powder and

matches are set, you see, ready for instantaneous use. The ball must

be shot so that the line falls over the ship. Not an easy mark to hit

in the night and the storm driving. Sometimes it is not done until

after many trials: sometimes, as in the case of the Giovanni, it

cannot be reached at all. I saw the Argyle go down eight years ago

with all on board, after we had tried all night to reach her. One man

was washed ashore, and we made a rope of hands out beyond the first

breaker, and so got him in."

"The men farthest out on the line had not much better chance than he?"

"No, but the man had to be got in," carelessly. "I was going to say

that as soon as the line does fall over the ship it is hauled

aboard. There is a hauling-line fastened to it, and a hawser to the

hauling-line. Here they all are in order. When the hawser reaches the

ship it is made taut and secured to the mizzentop or mainmast, high

enough to swing clear of the taffrail. It is fastened on shore by

this sand-anchor. Then we send over the breeches-buoy," pointing to a

complete suit of india-rubber very similar in appearance to that used

by Paul Boyton. "One man can be sent safely to shore in that. But we

use the life-car most frequently."

"A boat?"

"You may call it a covered boat if you will. That life-car, sir, was

invented by Captain Douglass Ottinger, and this is the first one ever

used. It was sent out to the ship Ayrshire, and more than two hundred

souls were saved by it when there was no other way of giving them

human help. There she is, sir." He laid his hand with a good deal of

feeling on the queer shell that hung from the ceiling.

The Ottinger life-car, the patent for which the generous inventor gave

to the; public, is simply an egg-shaped case with bands of cork about

it. Along the top are iron rings through which it is slung on the

hawser. The car is drawn by another line from the shore to the vessel.

It opens by means of a door or lid two feet square on top. Eleven

passengers can be crowded inside. The lid is then screwed down and the

car drawn ashore.

"Eleven!" cried one of the party. "It would not hold four

comfortably."

"Men in that extremity are not apt to stand on the order of their

going," said another.

"Nor women, neither," added the captain; "though women always do cry

out to go in the open boat rather than the car, though there isn't

half the chance for them."

"How is it ventilated?"

"Ventilated? Lord bless you! What would be the good of it if it wasn't

air-tight? It's under the water all the time, upside down, over and

over a hundred times. There's air in it enough to last 'em for three

minutes, and it's calculated that it can be brought ashore in less

time. I've seen husbands put their wives into it, and mothers their

little babies--them standing on deck, never hoping to live to see them

again."

"And when it was opened--"

"Well, sir, there's curious things seen on the beach on nights of

shipwreck. I'm no hand at describing. Some men stagger out of the car

sick, some crying or praying, some as cool as if they'd just stepped

off the train."

The captain locked the rocket-closet, hung the key on the nail and

rearranged a coil of rope which had been displaced. "Things have to

be shipshape when the lives of a crew may depend on a missing match

or wet powder. The houses," he added as we came out of the door and

he stopped to close it, "are built every three miles along the beach.

From November 15 until April 15 the keeper and six surfmen live in

this house, and take watches, patrolling the beach night and day,

meeting halfway between the stations. Chief Kimball's plan is that

there shall be an unbroken line of sentries along this dangerous coast

during the six stormy months."

When the hearty old captain had left us, and we found our way again

across the marshes, the solitude of the night and stormy sky and the

moaning sea became oppressive again, and took on all their old meaning

of death and disaster. But we looked back at the square black shadow

of the little house upon the headland with its fluttering flag, and

at the red light burning in the window, and felt a sense of protection

and trust in the government which we had never known before.

REBECCA HARDING DAVIS.

THE EUTAW FLAG.[A]

In the early spring of the year 1780 two ladies attired in morning

_négligé_ were sitting together in the parlor of a fine old country

mansion in lower South Carolina. The remains of two or three huge

hickory logs were smouldering on the capacious hearth, for the cool

air of the early morning made fires still comfortable, though as

the day wore on and the southern sun gathered power the small-paned

windows which opened on the lawn had been raised to admit the soft

breeze, which already whispered of opening flowers and breathed the

sweet fragrance of the jessamine and magnolia. These same embers would

have furnished heat enough in a house of modern construction to have

made the room intolerable, but as they reposed upon their bed of ashes

in the depths of the wide-mouthed chimney-place, lazily sending

up their little curls of smoke, they served only to create a

draught-power which cooled the apartment by the free circulation of

the flower-scented air. The wide lawn was green with the fresh

spring grass, amid which a lively company of field-larks were busily

searching for grasshoppers and grubs, their gay yellow breasts and

jetty breastpins glancing in the sunlight as they raised their heads

from time to time to utter their soft whistling notes. The blackbirds

puffed their feathers and sounded their singular call from the

branches of the old pecan tree, and the flashing of the oriole

enlivened the sombre foliage of the enormous live-oaks in the avenue.

Three or four deer-hounds were stretched about under the broad

benches of the piazza or snapped at the flies under the shade of the

rose-bushes, already heavy with bloom, paying no attention to the

tame doe which jingled her little bell over their very heads as she

stretched up to browse the young shoots of "rose-candy" above them.

Two mocking-birds, one perched on the chimney-stack of the house, and

the other on a straggling spray of the wild-orange hedge, vied with

each other in imitating the medley of bird-language which made the air

vocal on every side, pouring a rich flood of melody through the open

windows and into the appreciative ears of the ladies who sat within.

"What a lovely day!" exclaimed the elder of the two as she dropped her

piece of embroidery and rose to look out upon the scene.

"Oh, how I wish we could take a long ride! Here have I been staying at

Oaklands three whole weeks, and I have not been in the saddle once! I

declare, Jane, this horrid war will never be over;" and Rebecca Stead

drew a long sigh and leaned her pretty head thoughtfully against the

sash.

"Well, suppose we ride over to The Willows?" answered Jane Elliott

with a ringing laugh. "If you'll take the old broken-winded mare, I'll

take one of the plough-mules, and Billy can go with us on the other.

Wouldn't it be fun?"

In response to the bell, Billy soon made his appearance--an elderly

negro of most respectable appearance, dressed in a blue cloth coat

with large brass buttons, a red plush waistcoat with flaps nearly

reaching his knees, and a pair of yellow breeches with plated

knee-buckles and coarse blue worsted stockings. A single glance at his

face and bearing was enough to show his sense of importance and his

keen appreciation of the responsibility of his position. He listened

with a look of utter amazement to the orders of his young mistress,

and then replied in a tone of stern authority, such as none but an old

family negro servant could assume: "Miss Jane, dat mule nebber had no

saddle 'pon he back sence he been born."

"Well, Billy, it's high time he should know how it feels."

"He wi' kick you' brains out 'fore you git on um, an' broke you' neck

'fore you kin git from here to de gate."

"Oh nonsense, Billy! Have the saddle put on him at once, and get the

old mare for Miss Rebecca."

"Miss 'Becca can't ride de ole mare tid-day, 'cause she 'way down

in de pasture, an' anybody can't ketch um in tree hour time; an' you

can't ride de mule, Miss Jane, 'cause you ma done tell me I must tek

good care o' you an' de house w'ile she gone, an' I ain't gwine let

you broke you' neck or you' arm--not tid-day." And Billy quietly

walked out and closed the door, leaving the young ladies half vexed

and half amused at his summary disposal of their scheme.

"After Tarleton's troop and that horrid Tory Ball took my saddle-pony

out of the pasture," said Miss Elliott, "mamma sent all the blooded

horses to General Lincoln, and we hear that they were turned over to

the Virginia Light Horse."

"Yes," replied Miss Stead with a mischievous smile, "and I hear that

Colonel Washington has taken the beautiful bay mare for his own mount,

and named her 'Jane.'"

"That's a piece of his Virginia impudence," rejoined Miss Elliott. "I

have met him only once, at General Izard's, and I think he has taken a

great liberty with my name. They say he behaved splendidly at Trenton

and Princeton."

"Oh, I wish he would call while I am here," said her companion. "They

say he is an elegant rider. I wonder if he looks like the general?

I don't believe any Virginian can ride better than our young men. I

wonder if he can take up a handful of sand at a gallop, like cousin

John Izard?"

"Or jump his horse on the table," suggested Miss Elliott with a

roguish glance, "as I've heard that Mr. Izard did one day after a

club-dinner."

Miss Stead colored slightly as she said that the gentlemen all

complained of the strength of the last box of claret received from

Charleston before the club was broken up.

"I hear that Colonel Washington is a fine swordsman," said Miss

Elliott, "and that his troop are all bold riders. They have fought

Tarleton's Legion once or twice in skirmishes, and they say the

red-coats are rather shy of them."

Just at this point the conversation was interrupted by the entrance

of Billy, bearing a peace-offering in the shape of a huge waiter of

luncheon. Billy was butler and major-domo to the establishment, and

the young ladies could not restrain their mirth at the profusion and

variety with which the faithful fellow was evidently trying to

make amends for the disappointment which his high sense of duty had

compelled him to inflict upon them. Had there been a dozen instead of

two, there would have been ample provision for their wants upon the

broad silver salver. Cakes and jellies, preserves and sandwiches,

tarts and ruddy apples, a decanter of sherry and a stand of liqueurs,

left barely room enough for the dainty little plates and glasses,

while Billy's special apology appeared in the form of two steaming

little tumblers of rum-punch, the characteristic beverage of the

day. All severity of tone and manner had disappeared, and there was

something almost chivalric in the deferential smile and rude grace

with which the old fellow handed his waiter to the ladies and assured

them of the harmless mildness of the punch. Depositing his burden upon

a little stand within easy reach of the sofa, Billy turned to leave,

but paused as his eye wandered down the opening vista of the avenue,

and after gazing for a moment in silence he suddenly exclaimed,

"Dere's two sojer gemplemans comin' t'rough de big gate."

In an instant both the young ladies were on their feet and at the

window, for such an announcement was cause enough for excitement in

that time of war, when the "sojer gemplemans" might prove to be either

friends or foes. Charleston had already narrowly escaped capture

during the previous summer by General Prevost, who, although compelled

to retire on Savannah, had worsted Lincoln's militia army, destroying

about one-fourth of the little force. In October had occurred the

disastrous, attack upon Savannah, in which the gallant Pulaski

lost his life, and Jasper, the hero of Fort Sullivan, received his

death-wound. Sumter, the "Game-Cock" of Carolina, had retired from

the State with his handful of followers badly demoralized; Marion, the

"Swamp-Fox," was concealed with his little band among the cypress-bays

and canebrakes of the Pedee; and a tone of gloom and despondency

prevailed among the people. In the neighborhood of Charleston all

was uncertainty. The plantation residences were occupied chiefly by

ladies, the gentlemen being generally with the army. Tarleton's Legion

had become widely known and feared on account of the dashing forays

which that famous command was constantly making under the lead of its

brave and impetuous chief. No wonder, then, that the hearts of the

two young ladies at Oaklands beat quick with anxiety as they strained

their gaze down the avenue, uncertain whether they should see the

hated scarlet uniforms of the British troopers or the welcome blue of

the Continental cavalry.

But the "big gate" to which Billy had alluded was a full quarter of

a mile distant, and although the first glance satisfied the excited

watchers that their visitors were friends, little more could be

certain until they should approach more nearly. Patience, however,

was hardly to be expected under the circumstances, and its place was

effectually supplied by a little red morocco-covered spy-glass which

Miss Elliott took from the table. Scarcely was it brought to bear upon

the approaching horsemen when she laid it down as suddenly as she had

seized it, the rich color mantling to her forehead.

"Why, Jane," said her friend, "am I not to have a look at the

strangers? Oh, I declare--yes, I _do_ believe I know that horse. It

must be--"

"It is Colonel Washington and some other officer whom I do not know,"

said Miss Elliott, who had regained her self-possession completely.

"You have your wish, Rebecca."

The two visitors cantered rapidly up the broad avenue, and found Billy

waiting to receive them. One was a tall, soldierly-looking man of

about twenty-eight, his fine face bronzed by exposure, and his easy

seat in the saddle betokening one who had been a horseman from his

youth. He wore the blue coat with yellow facings and the buckskin

breeches of the Continental cavalry, his red sash bound over a broad

sword-belt which supported a strong sabre, while the handsome and

well-muscled bay mare which he rode carried a leather portmanteau in

addition to the heavy bearskin holster. His large cavalry-boots were

well bespattered, and his whole bearing was that of an officer

on duty, rather than of a gallant bent on visiting lady fair. His

companion was a mere youth, seemingly not over seventeen, well mounted

also, and dressed in the simple uniform of an orderly, but evidently

the friend and social equal of his superior officer. The young man sat

his horse with the ease and grace of one born to the saddle, and his

fiery chestnut seemed to know and understand his rider thoroughly.

Like the other, he was provided with holsters and portmanteau, a heavy

blue cavalry cloak being strapped over the unstuffed saddle-tree.

Entering the drawing-room, Colonel Washington presented his companion

to Miss Elliott as "Mr. Peyton of Virginia," and both gentlemen were

in turn presented to Miss Stead, who received their courtly bows with

one of those graceful, sweeping courtesies which may be ranked among

the lost arts of a past generation. Billy had followed the guests to

the parlor-door, where he stood as if waiting orders.

"You seem to have ridden far," said: the fair hostess when the

ordinary salutations had passed. "Let me order your horses to the

stable to be fed."

"I thank you very kindly, miss, but there will be scarcely time,

for we are under marching orders, and must be in Charleston before

sunset," replied the colonel with a bow; and there was something

in his tone which faintly suggested a mental desire to see the said

marching orders in Jericho.

Perhaps young Peyton detected this, for he said immediately, "I think

we had best accept Miss Elliott's kindness, for we have a long ride

before us, and we cannot tell what orders may be awaiting us at the

end of it."

"I believe Peyton is right," said the colonel, "and if you will permit

me I will ask him to give some directions to the servant."

Billy, however, had heard enough to give him his cue, and had

disappeared, nor did the summons of the bell bring him back until full

ten minutes had elapsed. When he did return it was to bring in two

more tumblers of punch, but this time of "the regulation size" and

strength, which were handed to the guests and disposed of with bow

and sentiment; and then the young orderly went out with him to see the

horses stripped and the holsters deposited on the piazza before the

animals were led off to be fed.

"We shall have to defer accepting your invitation to attend the dress

parade until your return to camp," said Miss Elliott.

"I regret to be obliged to say that the fortunes of war have deprived

us for the present of that honor. My orders extend to the command,

which broke camp this morning and is now on its march to Charleston."

"Oh, what are we to do? We felt so safe while they were near us."

The remark burst involuntarily from Miss Stead, who blushed and cast

down her eyes as if conscious of having said too much for maidenly

propriety, but the smile of acknowledgment on Colonel Washington's

face gave way to a look of grave anxiety as he replied, "No lady of

Carolina shall ever need a defender while a man of my command is left

to draw a sword; but we have news of movements on the enemy's part

which require our presence nearer to the city, and I have advised that

all noncombatants who can possibly move into Charleston should do

so at their earliest convenience. Perhaps we may meet there in a few

days."

A momentary pallor had overspread Miss Elliott's face, but it was

succeeded immediately by a proud flush as she said, "It is true, then,

that General Clinton has left Savannah and is moving on Charleston?"

"Such is the report, and I fear we are badly prepared to meet him."

"We have a righteous cause, and God is on our side," replied the brave

girl with flashing eyes. "Governor Rutledge has issued a call for all

men not in service to take up arms, and the whole upper country will

swarm down to meet these hireling British."

"So we all hope and expect; and if they are only in good time, there

will be no fear of the result."

"Fear! Who fears these upstart baronets and their insolent soldiers?

Oh, how I wish women could fight! If the men can't drive them back,

let _us_ take the field, and Clinton shall never set his foot in the

streets of Charleston;" and the brave little beauty looked as if she

meant every word she said.

"The men cannot fail to be heroes when the eyes of such women are upon

them," exclaimed the gallant colonel, looking with amused admiration

at the lovely face all aglow with patriotic excitement. "But you must

let us do the fighting, Miss Elliott, while you cheer and support us

with your smiles and your prayers.--Peyton, what do you think would

be the result of a charge by a squadron of ladies upon Tarleton's

Legion?"

"I can't answer for Tarleton," laughingly replied the orderly, who had

just entered the room, "but I am afraid I should throw down my arms

and desert in the face of the enemy."

"You are an ungallant fellow, Peyton, to hint even that the ladies

could ever be your enemies."

"Oh, do look there!" cried Miss Stead with a silvery laugh, and

pointing through the open window: "shall we take the issue of that

struggle as an omen?"

The whole party rushed to the window and looked out on the lawn. A

brilliant redbird, the proximity of whose nest perhaps had fired his

timid heart with courage, had made a savage assault on a bluejay, the

colors of whose feathers were strikingly suggestive of the Continental

uniform. For a moment the two combatants fluttered in angry strife,

and the result seemed doubtful, when a female mocking-bird flew from

her nest in the shrubbery and drove them both ingloriously from the

field.

"That settles the matter," exclaimed Colonel Washington, laughing

gayly. "If Governor Rutledge calls out the ladies, I shall throw up

my commission at once, and retire in good order to the security of

private life."

"Perhaps then Lieutenant Peyton would succeed to the command?"

rejoined Miss Elliott, glancing archly at the young orderly.

"I am almost sorry that your corps has not been organized, miss, for

I might then consider myself gazetted for promotion, and claim my

lieutenant's commission over your signature." The young man spoke in a

tone of gay badinage, but a shade of annoyance came over his features

as he added with a slight bow, "I am only plain 'Mr.' Peyton as yet."

"I beg pardon," said Miss Elliott, "but I thought 'lieutenant' was an

ensign's proper title."

"If Peyton were the ensign of the troop, his office would be a

sinecure," laughed the colonel, "seeing we have no standard for him to

carry."

"You surely don't mean, colonel, that your gallant corps fights

without colors?" said Miss Stead.

"Why, we cannot use those that we captured from the enemy, and I fear

our lady friends will be unable to present us with a stand until the

war is over and silk becomes more plentiful."

Miss Elliott's eyes flashed with a sudden impulse, and the color

deepened on her cheek as she eagerly asked, "Would you carry so poor a

little flag as a Carolina girl can present to you? Many a good knight

has gone into battle with no richer standard than a lady's scarf."

"If Miss Elliott will honor my command by entrusting her kerchief to

its keeping, I swear to fly it in the face of Tarleton's Legion and

defend it to the last drop of my blood."

"Then let this be your flag," cried the noble girl with a burst of

enthusiasm which echoed that which rung in Colonel Washington's tones.

A large _fauteuil_, covered with heavy crimson silk embroidered with

raised laurel-leaves, was standing near. Miss Elliott seized, as she

spoke, the scissors from her work-basket, and in a moment had cut out

the rectangular piece which covered the back and offered it to her

distinguished guest. Washington bowed low with courtly grace and

touched his lips to the fair hand which presented it, while young

Peyton, carried away by the excitement of the moment, sprang to his

feet with a cheer which started the wild birds from the shrubbery:

"Colonel Washington, I claim the right, by Miss Elliott's commission,

to carry that flag into action, and I swear that it shall never be

stained with dishonor while Walter Peyton has a right hand to grasp

its staff."

"Take it, my boy," said the colonel in a voice tremulous with emotion,

"and guard it with your life. With God's help we will make that flag

a terror to the enemies of our country.--Miss Elliott, accept a

soldier's gratitude for your precious gift to-day. No prouder banner

ever waved over battle-field or claimed the devotion of patriotic

hearts. It shall be fringed and mounted this very night in Charleston,

and I pledge my sacred honor that Washington's Light Horse shall prove

worthy of their trust."

There was a pause in the conversation which was broken by young

Peyton, who rattled on for some time with Miss Stead in that light

vein which the most serious circumstances cannot long repress when

youth and beauty meet. Colonel Washington spoke but little, and

with an evident effort at gayety which ill agreed with the earnest,

thoughtful look which settled on his features, while Miss Elliott

could not conceal the embarrassment which her heightened color and

downcast eyes betrayed as she toyed with her embroidery, avoiding the

glances of deep and ardent yet restrained admiration with which

her distinguished guest regarded her. The hour had arrived when the

soldiers must resume their journey; and while Rebecca Stead stood

watching from the piazza the final preparations which the young

orderly was making for the march, Colonel Washington took the hand of

his fair hostess and after a moment's hesitation bowed low and pressed

it to his lips, but with somewhat more of warmth than was required by

the stately courtesy of the day. Their eyes met for an instant, and

then, without one word of spoken adieu, they parted. When Miss Stead

turned to join her friend she found herself alone with old Billy,

who was gazing after the fast-receding forms of the troopers. "Mass'

Tahlton done ketch de debbil ef he meet dem Virginia man to-night,"

said the old fellow sententiously as he slowly retired into his

pantry.

[Footnote A: This fine old relic of the Revolution is preserved by the

Washington Light Infantry of Charleston, South Carolina. It was borne

by Colonel William Washington's corps at Cowpens and Eutaw.]

II.

On the 12th of May, 1780, General Lincoln, after sustaining a close

siege of more than a month's duration, surrendered Charleston, with

five thousand men and four hundred pieces of artillery, into the hands

of Sir Henry Clinton. The dark cloud which had long been threatening

Lower Carolina now settled like a pall over the whole State, and but

for two causes the whole issue of the war might have been changed. One

of these was the severity of Cornwallis, who succeeded Clinton in the

command, and who by his unwise policy drove the despondent people to

desperation: the other was the indomitable courage and self-devoted

heroism of the women, which encouraged and strengthened the flagging

patriotism of the men. The militia who had been captured with the city

regarded themselves as absolved from a parole which did not protect

them from enlistment in the ranks of the Crown, and the irregular

bands of Marion, Pickens and Sumter received large accessions.

Mill-saws were roughly forged into sabres and pewter table-ware melted

and beaten into slugs for the shot-guns with which the men were armed.

The British dared not forage except in force, the pickets were shot

from ambushes, and their Tory allies hung whenever captured. In

August the disastrous battle of Camden destroyed Gates's army, and

the Congress sent Greene to supersede him. Making his head-quarters in

North Carolina, this experienced commander divided his force and sent

General Morgan, with about one thousand men, into South Carolina to

harass Cornwallis in the rear. The latter at once sent Tarleton with

eleven hundred troopers, among them his famous Legion, to cut off

Morgan or drive him back upon Greene. In the latter part of December

the Americans were in the region of the upper Broad River, in

Spartanburg district, South Carolina, Morgan having but one hundred

and thirty mounted men--they could hardly be called cavalry--among

whom was Washington's troop.

It was about nine o'clock on the night of the 16th of January, 1781,

that the little army was encamped between the Pacolet and Broad

rivers, near a piece of thin woodland known as Hannah's Cowpens. The

weather was very cold, for the elevation of that part of the country

produces a temperature equal in severity to that of a much higher

latitude, but neither tents nor shanties protected the sleeping

soldiers from the frosty air. Here and there a rough shelter of pine

boughs heaped together to windward of the smouldering camp-fires told

of a squad who had not been too weary to work for a little show of

comfort; but in most cases the men were stretched out on the bare

ground, their feet toward the embers and their arms wrapped up with

them in their tattered blankets, which scarcely served to keep out the

cold. The regular troops, who had seen some service, might have

been easily distinguished from the less experienced militia by their

superior sleeping arrangements. Two and sometimes three men would be

found wrapped in one blanket, "spoon-fashion," with another blanket

stretched above them on four stakes to serve as a tent-fly, and their

fires were usually large and well covered with green branches to

prevent their burning out too rapidly. One and all, however, slept

as soundly as if reposing on beds of down, while the same quiet stars

smiled on them and on the anxious wives and mothers who lay waking

and praying in many a distant home. In and out among the weird and

shifting shadows of the outer lines the dim figures of the sentinels

stalked with their old "Queen Anne" muskets at the "right-shoulder

shift," or tramped back and forth along their beats at the double

quick to keep their blood in circulation. At a little distance from

the infantry camp the horses of Washington's dragoons and M'Call's

mounted Georgians were picketed in groups of ten, the saddles piled

together, and a sentinel paced between every two groups, while the

men were stretched around their fires, sleeping on their arms like the

infantry, for it was known that Tarleton had crossed the Pacolet that

day, and an attack was expected at any time. A party of officers were

asleep near one of the fires, with nothing, however, to distinguish

them from the men but the red or buff facings of their heavy cloaks.

One of these lay with his face to the stars, sleeping as placidly as

if his boyish form were safe beneath his mother's roof. One arm lay

across his chest, clasping to his body the staff of a small cavalry

flag, while the other stretched along his side, the hand resting

unconsciously upon a holster-case of pistols. As the glare of the

neighboring fire played over his features it was easy to recognize

Walter Peyton, guarding faithfully, even in his sleep, the banner

which Jane Elliott had cut from her mother's parlor _fauteuil_, and

which had already become known to the enemy. A rough log cabin stood a

little way from the bivouac, before which two sentinels in the uniform

of the Continental regulars were pacing up and down. The gleam of

the roaring lightwood fire flashed through the open seams between the

logs, and heavy volumes of smoke rolled out of the clay chimney.

Just in front of the huge fire-place stood the tall, burly figure of

Morgan, and near him were grouped, in earnest consultation, the manly

figure of William Washington, the brave and knightly John Eager Howard

of Maryland, McDowell, Triplett, Cunningham and other officers of the

field and staff. Determination not unmingled with gloom was visible

upon the faces of all. Every arrangement had been made for the

probable fight of the morrow, and the council was about to disperse,

when the silence of the night was broken by the call of a distant

sentinel, taken up and repeated along the line. Morgan instantly

despatched an orderly, to the bivouac of the guard, and the party were

soon cheered by the intelligence that a courier had just arrived who

reported the near approach of Pickens with three hundred Carolina

riflemen--a timely and valuable addition to the little force of

patriots.

The first gray pencilings of dawn were scarcely visible when the

slumbering camp was roused by the rolling notes of the reveille from

the drum of little Solly Barrett,[A] the drummer-boy of Howard's

Maryland Regulars. Fully refreshed by a good night's rest, the men

prepared and ate their breakfasts with but little delay, and by seven

o'clock the entire force was in line of battle, awaiting the approach

of the enemy.

[Footnote A: "Solly" resided for many years after the war at Easton,

Maryland. A good portrait of him is still there.]

Tarleton, flushed with the assurance of easy victory, had made a

forced march during the night, and his command was much jaded when at

eight o'clock he came in sight of Morgan's outposts: notwithstanding

this, however, he determined, as was fully expected by those who knew

his disposition and mode of warfare, to attack the American lines

forthwith. It must be left to the historian to tell how the battle

raged with varying fortunes until Howard's gallant Marylanders taught

the British regulars that the despised provincials had learned the

trick of the bayonet, and decided the issue of the day. Up to this

moment the cavalry, which had been posted in reserve behind a slight

wooded eminence, had been chafing for a hand in the fray. As has

been stated, these troops consisted of McCall's mounted militia and

Washington's Light Dragoons. The latter were all well mounted and

armed, for their frequent successes in skirmishes with the enemy's

horse kept them well supplied. They were a crack corps, and well

had they earned their reputation. Just as Howard's regulars turned

savagely on their disorderly pursuers and put them to the rout, a

squadron of British light horse made a dash at McCall, whose men

were unused to the sabre, and had been demoralized by the first

bayonet-charge of the enemy, which they had sustained on foot. Now was

Washington's chance.

"Are you ready, men? Charge!" The words were scarcely off his lips

ere the noble mare which he rode shot forward, touched by her rider's

spur. With a wild yell, which drowned the regular cheer of the

Englishmen, the men dashed after their brave and impetuous leader,

who was ever the first to cross a sabre with the enemy. Rising in

his stirrups as the gallant chestnut answered the spur, Walter Peyton

looked backward at the men as he raised the light staff of his little

banner and shook its folds to the breeze, and the next moment he was

close by the side of his chief in the very thickest of the mêlée. For

a moment all was dust and confusion, for Tarleton's veterans were not

the men to break at the first onset, and they met the furious charge

of the Virginians with a determination which promised a bloody and

doubtful struggle. One stout fellow, mounted on a powerful horse,

singled out the young ensign as his special quarry, not noticing, in

his ardor to capture the daring little rebel flag, that the trooper

who rode next to it was the gallant colonel himself. Reining back his

horse almost upon its haunches, he had raised his sabre in the very

act to strike when that of Washington came down with tremendous force,

severing the upper muscles of his sword-arm, and at the same instant

Peyton, for the first time observing his danger, dropped his rein and,

grasping the flagstaff with both hands, swung it full in the face of

his assailant. The man's horse shied violently as the folds of the

little banner flapped across his eyes, and as his rider fell heavily

from the saddle dashed at full speed through the British line. Already

this had begun to waver, and in another moment the panicstricken

troopers were flying in wild confusion toward their reserve. To

rally a body of frightened cavalry is no easy matter under any

circumstances, but when a determined pursuing force is pressing hotly

on the rear it becomes a simple impossibility. The entire command gave

way as the fugitives approached, and in a little while was in full

retreat. Colonel Washington, as usual far in advance of his men,

caught sight of the British commander, who, with two of his aides,

was endeavoring to rally a favorite regiment, and without a thought of

support pressed toward the group, accompanied only by Peyton with Jane

Elliott's flag and a little bugler, a mere boy, who carried no sword,

but who had drawn a pistol from his holster and kept close to the

colors all through the day.

Tarleton was not deficient in personal courage, and turned to meet his

old enemy in a hand-to-hand encounter. The officer nearest him struck

at Washington as he passed, but missed his blow and received a bullet

in his side from the young bugler's pistol.

"Carter," cried Tarleton to the other aide, who rode near him, "a

captain's brevet if you take that woman's petticoat," pointing with

his sword to the saucy little flag, the story of which had reached the

British camps.

But it was no woman's hand which was there to defend it, and as the

Englishman wheeled his horse for the attack Peyton's pistol flashed

almost in his face, and he fell forward on his charger's neck,

convulsively clasping it as the animal ran wildly forward unguided

toward the American lines. Meanwhile, the two commanders had crossed

swords, and as both were good fencers, a duel _à l'outrance_ seemed

imminent. But Tarleton had no time for chivalrous encounters. His

opponent beat down his guard, and with a sudden thrust wounded the

British colonel in the hand. The latter drew a pistol, and as he

wheeled to follow his flying squadrons discharged it at his adversary,

the ball taking effect near the knee. The battle was now really at an

end, and the pursuit was abandoned at this point.

As Walter Peyton lay down beside his camp-fire that night it was with

a body worn down by excitement and fatigue, but with a heart beating

high with pride as he looked at the flag he had so gallantly defended,

and remembered his colonel's words of commendation, which he more than

hoped meant promotion to a captain's commission.

In the city of Charleston all was gloom and sorrow except in the

little circle of society which boasted of its loyalty to the Crown.

Scarcely a family but had some representative in the Continental

ranks, and as all intelligence reached the city through British

channels, the darkest side of every encounter between the armies was

the first which the imprisoned patriots saw. The non-combatant members

of all the planters' families had moved into the city before

its capitulation, and while the ladies permitted the visits and

acquaintance of the English officers, they never lost an opportunity

to show them how hateful they esteemed the royal cause.

It was nearly a month after the victory at the Cowpens that Miss

Elliott was sitting with her mother one evening in the parlor of

their city residence. Conspicuous among the furniture was a large and

comfortable arm-chair upholstered in heavy crimson silk damask, but

while everything else in the room was neat and even elegant, this

chair appeared to be more fit for the lumber-closet, the entire square

of silk having been cut from the back, leaving the underlining of

coarse striped cotton exposed to view. The tones of the curfew or

"first bell," which may still be heard nightly in the seagirt old

city, had just died away when a loud rap came from the heavy brass

knocker on the street-door, and in a few moments old Billy appeared to

announce "Captain Fraser."

A look of slight annoyance passed over the face of the elder lady as

she arranged the snowy ruffles of her cap, while the deepened color

and sparkling eyes of the younger, with the almost imperceptible

sarcasm of her smile, seemed to indicate mingled pleasure, defiance

and contempt. The visitor who entered was resplendent in the gay

scarlet and glittering lace of the British uniform, and his redundancy

of ruffles, powder and sword-knot betokened the military exquisite,

his bearing presenting a singular mixture of high breeding and haughty

insolence. With his right hand laid upon the spot where his heart

was supposed to be, while his left daintily supported the leathern

scabbard of his sword, he bowed until the stiff little queue of his

curled wig pointed straight at the heavy cornice. The ladies swept the

floor with their graceful courtesies, that of the younger presenting

the least touch of exaggeration as with folded arms and downcast eyes

she sank backward before her guest. Another knock was heard, and when

the names of three more of the garrison officers were announced, Miss

Elliott whispered to Billy a hasty message to some of her fair friends

in the neighborhood to come in and help her entertain them. These

impromptu parties were quite common, and in a little while the room

was sparkling with beauty, gallantry and wit. It may seem strange that

the patriotic belles of the day, the fair Brewtons and Pinckneys

and Rutledges, the Ravenels and Mazycks, should have cultivated such

pleasant associations with the enemies of their country. But among the

officers they had many old friends and acquaintances of _ante-bellum_

days, and not a few marriages had established even closer ties. Thus,

Lord Campbell, the last royal governor, was husband to Sarah Izard,

the sister of General Ralph Izard, who was brother-in-law to our

former acquaintance, Rebecca Stead; and even General Washington had

invited Admiral Fairfax to dine, on the ground that a state of war did

not preclude the exchange of social civilities between gentlemen who

served under opposing flags.

Mrs. Elliott received the attentions of her daughter's visitors with

dignified grace, but with a degree of reserve which it was impossible

altogether to conceal, and to which the officers had become too much

accustomed to feel any offence; while the younger ladies drove the

keen darts of their sarcasm home to the feelings of their hostile

guests, who were forced to submit to it or forego entirely the

pleasures of female society.

"May I ask if Company K has been on duty at the picket-lines to-day?"

asked Miss Elliott of Captain Fraser, who had just sauntered up to her

chair.

"May I answer the question after the fashion of my ancestors," was the

reply, "by asking why you should think so?"

"Only because you seem to be suffering from fatigue, which a long

march might explain."

Fraser's company was notoriously a "fancy corps," whose severest duty

was generally to furnish the guard at head-quarters and to go through

a dress parade every evening at the Battery.

"Ah, no, but I have been on inspection duty, and it's a bore, I assure

you."

"Inspecting the flower-gardens, I presume, to be sure that there are

no rattlesnakes under the rose-bushes, or the milliner-shops, to see

that no palmetto cockades are made. May I insist upon a seat for you?

Not _that_ chair," she added hastily and with heightened color as the

captain was about to occupy the mutilated _fauteuil_: "excuse me, but

that is a 'reserved seat.'"

"Ah, I see--beg pardon," said Fraser with a slight sneer, for

the story of Washington's flag was generally known, and also Miss

Elliott's aversion to the use of the chair by any British officer.

"Somebody seems to have carried off the back of that one."

"When last heard from," said the beauty with curling lip, "it was at

Colonel Tarleton's back."

"Tarleton should be court-martialed for that affair at Cowpens," said

Fraser with some warmth, and forgetting the proffered seat he prepared

to take his leave.

"Perhaps Captain Fraser would like to have had a hand in the 'affair'

also," added Miss Elliott with a demure smile. This allusion to

Tarleton's wound was too much for the gallant captain, and again

elevating the point of his queue toward the ceiling, but this time

without his hand to his heart, he left the room with a face somewhat

redder than his uniform.

III.

There are defeats which are more glorious than victory, and one

of these it was which, on the 8th of September, 1781, gave to Jane

Elliott's flag the title which has come down with it to posterity. In

the earlier days of its history the saucy little standard was known to

the gallant men who followed it to action as "Tarleton's Terror," and

sometimes it is even now spoken of as "the Cowpens Banner." But the

name by which its brave custodians most love to call it is "the Eutaw

Flag," It is hard to realize as one stands beside the lovely fountains

which flow to-day as they did a hundred--or perhaps a thousand--years

ago, that close by these placid waters was fought one of the most

desperate and bloody struggles of a long and cruel war. The sunfish

and bream floated with quivering fins or darted among the rippling

shadows on that autumn morning as we see them doing now. The

mocking-bird sang among the overhanging branches the same varied

song which gladdens our ears, and the wild deer then, as now, lay

peacefully in the shady coverts of the neighboring woods. Who knows

what they may have thought when they heard their only enemy, man, ring

out his bugle-call to slip the war-dogs on his fellows, or when the

sharp crack of the rifle told them for the first time of safety to

themselves and of death to their wonted destroyers?

Already had "Light-horse Harry" Lee struck the first blow victoriously

in the capture of Coffin and the discomfiture of his force. Already

for several hours the old black oaks had quivered beneath the thunder

of artillery more fearfully destructive than that of Heaven itself as

Williams hurled back from his field-battery the iron hail with which

the enemy strove to overwhelm him. Already had Howard's gallant

Marylanders, the heroes of the Cowpens, crossed bayonets with the

veteran "Irish Buffs" and forced them in confusion from the field.

Majoribanks, with his regulars, grenadiers and infantry, was strongly

posted behind a copse too dense to be forced by cavalry, and yet to

dislodge him was Colonel Washington's special duty. Pointing with his

sword toward a narrow passage near the water, he dashed the spurs into

the flanks of his gallant mare and called on his men to follow.

There was a momentary pause, for the duty was of the most desperate

character, but Captain Peyton snatched the little banner which he had

carried so long from the hand of the sergeant who had succeeded to its

charge, and raising it above his head spurred after his leader. As the

silken folds fluttered out on the air a ringing cheer went up from

the troop, and the whole line, wheeling into sections so as to pass

through the narrow gap, dashed forward as one man. It was a daring

attempt, and terribly did they pay for their audacity. A perfect storm

of bullets greeted the brave Virginians, and nearly one-half of them

went down, horse and man, beneath its fearful breath ere the other

half were in the midst of the enemy's ranks. Those were days when a

certain simplicity of character made the soldier believe that bayonets

and sabres were terrible weapons and meant to do terrible work. No

rewards were then offered for "a dead cavalryman" or for "a bloody

bayonet." There were cloven skulls at Eutaw as at Crecy, and men were

transfixed by each other's deadly bayonet-thrusts. As Washington,

maddened by the loss of his brave troopers, swung his sharp blade like

the flail of death, a shot from the musket of a tall grenadier pierced

the lung of his noble bay, and as the falling steed rolled over on her

gallant rider the man shortened his musket and buried the sharp steel

in the colonel's body. A second thrust would have followed with deadly

result had not the British major, Majoribanks, seized the arm of the

soldier and demanded the surrender of his fallen and bleeding foe. The

tide of battle had receded like some huge swell of ocean, and as the

wounded hero struggled to his feet he found himself surrounded by

enemies, to contend with whom would have been folly. Turning his

feeble glance for a second toward the retreating remnant of his

shattered command, he caught a glimpse through the smoke and dust of

his little battle-flag fluttering in the distance, and fast receding

toward the point whence Hampton's bugles were already sounding the

rally. Neither William Washington nor his "Eutaw Flag" was ever again

in battle for the country, for the captivity of the former terminated

only with the war, and the latter fades from history from that

date until, in 1827, Jane Washington, for seventeen years a widow,

presented it as a precious inheritance to the gallant corps of

Charleston citizen soldiery, who still guard its folds from dishonor,

as they do the name of the knightly paladin which they bear. The

wedding was celebrated soon after the establishment of peace. Major

Majoribanks escaped the carnage of the day, but he lived not to

deliver his distinguished prisoner at Charleston. Sickening on the

retreat with the deadly malaria of the Carolina swamps, he died near

Black Oak, and his mossy grave may be seen to-day by the roadside,

marked by a simple stone and protected from desecration by a wooden

paling. It stands near the gate of Woodboo plantation, which old

Stephen Mazyck, the Huguenot, first settled, about twenty-five miles

from Eutaw and forty-three from Charleston. On the banks of the

Cooper, amid the lovely scenes of "Magnolia," Charleston's city of

the dead, there stands a marble shaft enwreathed in the folds of the

rattlesnake, the symbol of Revolutionary patriotism, and beneath it

rests all that was mortal of William Washington and Jane Elliott his

wife.

ROBERT WILSON.

CONVENT LIFE AND WORK.

To those who have had but little opportunity to examine the inner

workings of the Catholic Church the subject of the conventual life has

always been something of a puzzle. Of course it has been difficult for

them to obtain a personal insight into its details, just as it would

be difficult to gain admittance into the mosque of St. Sophia or a

Hindu community of religious. Curiosity, unsatisfied, betakes itself

to hearsay, and since those who know most are generally most silent

about their knowledge, it is to the gossip of ignorance or prejudice

that curiosity looks for an answer. Distorted views or imaginary

descriptions end by being received into the mill of public opinion,

and issue thence ground into gospel truth and invested with mysterious

(because fictitious) interest. It is strange that a phase of life

which is in constant practice at the present day, often within a

stone's throw of our own doors, and which has personal ramifications

in the families of our neighbors and acquaintances, should still be

so much of a phenomenon to the public mind. In England, France, Italy,

Germany and America I have been familiarly acquainted with it, have

studied its principles and its details under many varying forms,

and never found it less interesting because it was _not_ mysterious.

Human, fallible beings are the inhabitants of monasteries either

for males or females, with individual peculiarities and different

sympathies--by no means machines, but free and intelligent agents,

each with a character as individual as that of separate flowers in a

large garden--full of personality and of human imperfection.

In Rome, not far from the Fountain of Trevi--of whose waters it is

said that they have the power to ensure the return to Rome of any

one who has drunk of them in a cup not heretofore devoted to common

purposes--is the spacious convent called San Domenico e Sisto. Here

the first convent of Dominican friars was established, and the spot

is historic ground in the annals of the order of Preachers. In the

turbulent thirteenth century, when papal, feudal and democratic

parties opposed each other in Rome, and the vigorous sap of half-tamed

barbarian life still coursed through the pulses of Italy, Saint

Dominic rose like a reformer, a lawgiver and a peace-maker. On the

other side of the Tiber, entrenched behind baronial walls and fiercely

protected by baronial champions, was a convent of women whose practice

of their vows had become too relaxed for such a bad example to be

allowed to remain unreproved. The ecclesiastical authorities wished

peremptorily to disestablish the convent and filter its inmates

through some neighboring religious houses more zealous and more

edifying in their conduct. But the nuns, who were mostly of noble

families, appealed to their charters, their immunities and exemption

from papal jurisdiction. Their fathers and brothers, the formidable

barons who held within the papal city many strongholds well

garrisoned, took up their quarrel and dared the world to dispossess

the refractory sisterhood. Saint Dominic had just brought his friars

to the dilapidated house then known as San Sisto, had caused rapid

repairs to be made, and in his fervor had created round himself a

nucleus of ardent reformers. The Gordian knot was referred to him, and

with characteristic abruptness he promised to cut it at once. He came

alone to the gates of the convent, presented no credentials from pope

or cardinal, and asked an interview with the abbess. He spoke of the

holiness of an austere life, the reward of those that "follow the Lamb

whithersoever He goeth," the merit of obedience, the need of reform,

the great work that his order was doing for God, and the call for more

laborers in the field: he proposed to the nuns to be his helpers

among their own sex, and his coheiresses in the heavenly reward of the

future. His eloquence and zeal soon melted the haughty resolve of

the rebellious but still noble-minded women. Roused to a new sense of

power and responsibility, they embraced his rigid rule, and with the

enthusiasm of their sex, that never halts midway in reform, became

models of austerity. The better to signify to the world the spiritual

change wrought in their temper, they migrated from the abode which

they had sworn to make the symbol and palladium of their independence,

and went to San Sisto, Saint Dominic taking his monks to repeople the

convent across the Tiber left vacant by the submissive sisterhood.

It is with this new house, henceforth called San Domenico e Sisto,

that one of my earliest recollections of conventual life is connected.

The order is one which enjoins strict enclosure. The dress is of

coarse white serge or flannel, consisting of a long, narrow tunic with

flowing sleeves drawn over tight ones of linen; a _scapular_ or stole

(i.e., a piece of straight stuff half a yard broad worn hanging from

the shoulders both behind and before); a leathern girdle round the

waist, from which hangs a rosary, large, common and set in steel;

strong, thick sandals; a linen wimple enveloping the face and hiding

the ears, neck and roots of the hair; a woolen veil, black for the

professed nuns, white for the novices, and of white _linen_ for the

lay sisters; and over all an immense black cloak, falling around the

figure in statuesque folds.

In this order, and almost invariably in every other, a candidate is

admitted at first as a _postulant_ for a period of six months--a sort

of preliminary trial of her fitness for the religious life. She wears

ordinary clothes during this time--plain and black, of course, but not

of any prescribed shape. Sometimes, however, she is required by custom

to wear a plain black cap. After six months she is admitted as a

novice--i.e., she solemnly puts off the secular dress and wears the

habit of the order, making the vows of poverty, chastity and obedience

for the space of one year only. The details of the ceremony vary in

different orders, but the ceremony itself is called in all by the

generic name of "clothing" or "taking the white veil." In orders where

a white woolen veil is the badge of profession (these are not many)

a linen one is equally the mark of the novice and the lay sister.

Although there exists for convenience' sake a distinction between

choir-nuns and lay sisters--the former paying a dowry to the common

fund on the day of their entrance, and the latter bringing their

manual service to the house instead of any offering--still, the

difference is not spiritual, and beyond the mere distribution of labor

is not practically discernible. In orders where the education of youth

is the primary object, the lay sisters, under the supervision of the

choir-nun to whose charge the housekeeping is directly entrusted,

perform all the menial service, which would otherwise make too many

inroads on the time of the teaching nuns; but in other orders, the

Carmelites for instance, the lowest work, be it of the kitchen, the

laundry or the chamber, is undertaken in turn by every member of the

community. When Madame Louise, the daughter of Louis XV. of France,

became a Carmelite nun, the first task assigned her was the washing of

coarse dishes and the sweeping of floors. A parallel case is that of

the Cistercian monks, who to this day, at their famous farm-monastery

at Mount St. Bernard, England, are bound by their rule to labor with

their hands so many hours a day. No exception is made for the abbot

himself; and when we visited the establishment a few years ago we had

to wait some time for the abbot, who was digging in a distant field.

Scholar and savant are not exempt any more than the humblest member of

the brotherhood; and as it is a very learned order, and attracts

many recent converts to Catholicism, it is not infrequently that one

recognizes in the monk-laborer, digging potatoes or hoeing turnips,

some Anglican clergyman of delicate nurture and scholarly renown.

To this monastery, entirely self-supported by its extensive farm,

is attached a boys' reformatory, one of whose products is the most

excellent butter known in England. Tailoring, shoemaking, carpentry,

turning, etc. are all taught under the supervision of the monks:

those among the boys who wish it are helped to emigrate, and others

apprenticed at the proper time to the trades they have already been

taught at Mount St. Bernard.

To resume our sketch of the Dominican nuns in Rome. It is the custom

in Italy for a young lady about to "enter religion" to choose a

godmother or _madrina_, a lady of proper age and mature experience,

who acts as her chaperon during the few weeks preceding the

"clothing." She comes forth from the convent where she has been a

postulant, and, dressed in the garb of the world, makes formal

visits to all her relations, friends and patrons, assists at public

ceremonies in the local churches, even visits some places of interest,

such as museums and galleries. This is her solemn farewell to the

world, and she is supposed thus to have another trial given to the

steadfastness of her resolve, another chance to abandon it before it

is too late. A young girl of an illustrious Roman family, but of very

slender fortune, was about to enter the Dominican order at the time to

which I allude, in 1853. Her only sister had for some years been a nun

of a strictly enclosed order, and Mademoiselle G----, having chosen as

her madrina an English Catholic lady who had been enabled to show her

some kindness while still in the world, went to bid farewell to this

elder sister. The meeting was very affecting: the sisters could not

see each other face to face--a thick grating separated them. The elder

had long been a spiritual guide to the younger: she had led her mind

in the direction of the cloister, and now rejoiced sincerely that God

had smoothed away the family difficulties and pecuniary embarrassments

which for some time had stood in the way of her vocation. Still,

natural affection was not stifled in the generous, unselfish heart of

the cloistered nun, and she wept with her sister at the thought that,

though the walls of the same city would hold them both till death, and

hardly a few blocks of houses separate their convent homes, yet in

the flesh they should never meet again. The English godmother sat in a

remote corner of the cool, shady parlor, sympathizing in silence with

the touching scene, but keeping as much in the background as etiquette

and custom allowed, that she might not intrude on this last farewell.

At length the curtain behind the grating fell, and the young girl had

severed the tenderest link that bound her to the world. Many other

visits were paid--some to friends of Mademoiselle G----'s parents (she

had long been an orphan), some to ecclesiastical personages who had

interested themselves to procure her admission into the Dominican

community. With repeated blessings the young girl left their presence,

every day advancing nearer to her spiritual bridal.

At last the day came. Early in the morning the madrina arrived at the

convent with her two little girls of six and eight years old dressed

in white as bridesmaids, or, as the Italian term _angiolini_ has it,

little angels. They bore delicate baskets filled with white flowers to

strew before the "bride," and their office during the ceremony was

to hold the novice's gloves, fan and handkerchief. The young girl

herself, looking pale and earnest, walked up the aisle of the convent

chapel in bridal robes of white silk, with a veil and wreath on her

head, and round her neck a string of pearls, an heirloom in the G----

family. Her brother, the only male representative of her once powerful

house, was present in the outer chapel, full of grief at a sacrifice

which he had never countenanced, and ready to claim that morning the

only legacy of his sister the promise of which he had been able to

secure--the thick coils of her black hair when they should have been

cut off preparatory to her taking the novice's veil. The scene was

very solemn. The nuns sat in their carved stalls within the grating

whose black bars divided them from the "bride" and her friends in the

ante-chapel: the chant of psalms and versicles came down from a hidden

gallery, and the priest in rich vestments stood at the foot of the

altar within the railing. The service went on in the midst of a

palpable hush; the very air seemed hardly to vibrate; the bride,

attended by her two angiolini, left her gorgeous kneeling-chair and

advanced to the open door in the grating, where the priest met her.

Question and answer were interchanged in Italian, and the young girl

vowed that of her own free will she left the world and joined the

order of St. Dominic. Prayers in Latin followed, then again a chanted

psalm, and Mademoiselle G---- was led away through the iron-grated

door, which was then closed. It was not long ere she reappeared in

the long close tunic of white serge, her head covered with a temporary

veil of coarse linen and her feet shod in sandals. A procession of

nuns, each bearing a lighted taper, escorted her to the foot of the

altar (everything was visible through the grating), and she knelt

before the officiating priest. A white woolen veil was handed to

him, which he blessed with holy water, the sign of the cross and the

prescribed ejaculations accompanying these rites: he then laid it

on her head as a "symbol of the virgin modesty" to which she was now

pledged. Two nuns were at hand to pin it into the right folds while a

silver ring was being blessed in the same manner as the veil. This

was placed on the ring-finger of the left hand as a "symbol of the

intimate union and espousal with Christ" signified by her renunciation

of the world. The scapular of white serge, similarly blessed, was

then laid upon her shoulders as a type of the "yoke of obedience and

sacrifice;" and lastly, the black cloak, signifying charity, covering

and enveloping the whole person. Then in a loud, firm voice, instinct

with passion and resolve, she read, standing, the formal declaration

of her religious vows. When this was over the mother-superior led

the novice, now Sister Maria Colomba, to a small table on which lay

a bridal wreath of white roses and a crown of thorns. She asked her

solemnly which was her choice in life, and the novice took up the

crown of thorns and placed it on her head. This typical ceremony I

never saw performed in any other order. Shortly after the crown of

thorns was exchanged for that of roses, the superior saying, "Inasmuch

as thou hast chosen the crown which thy Saviour wore, He rewards thee

with that which is a shadow of the heavenly crown reserved for His

spouses in heaven." This bridal token the new nun wears during the

whole day.

To a few ladies and to the angiolini a special permission to enter the

enclosure was given in honor of the day: a festive meal was served in

the bare, cool refectory, the rule of silence being relaxed for the

special occasion, and the nuns wearing a happy, child-like expression

that hardly varied in the face of the youngest novice and that of

the septuagenarian "mother." The strangers were shown through the

dormitories, the kitchen, the laundry, the garden, the community-room,

where embroidery, painting and study diversify the labors of the broom

and the dishcloth, and everywhere the same exquisite neatness

struck the eye. Everything used in the house was of the coarsest

description--the linen like sack-cloth, but speckless; the delf as

thick and rough as if made for sailors; the floors mostly of brick or

stone; the furniture of unpainted deal. Over each bed, which is only a

board on trestles covered with heavy sacking, is a common crucifix and

a sprig of box or olive blessed on Palm Sunday. The sisters sleep in

their tunics. The library is common property, but no one may use or

read any book save by permission of the superioress. The rules of

fasting and abstinence are not exactly the same in every convent of

the order, but the broad rule is that meat should be eaten only on

great holidays, vegetables and farinaceous preparations, such as most

Italians are not unskilled in, forming the staple of the nuns' food.

Fish is almost as rare a luxury as meat. Their bread is coarse and

brown, and their drink indifferently water or a wine so sour that it

is practically vinegar. Not that these nuns are not good cooks and

bakers: witness the delicate sweetmeats, biscuits and pastry they

offer to strangers on such festival days as the one just described,

the fruit-preserves in blocks sold for their sustenance by the nuns

at Funchal, Madeira, and the fairy frostwork of sugar seen on great

occasions in French convents. No womanly art is a stranger to the deft

fingers of cloistered nuns. Bookbinding is a pursuit well known among

them, as is also the mounting in delicate filigree of the "Agnus Dei"

or waxen representation of the Lamb of God, blessed by the pope

at Easter and distributed throughout Christendom from the papal

metropolis. Another convent industry is the preparation of the wafers

used in the celebration of mass.

These Dominicanesses rise at four in the morning and dine at eleven,

making after that only one slight meal in the evening--bread and

vegetables, for instance, or a saucerful of macaroni. At stated times

they assemble in the chapel for the singing of the "divine office,"

and always have an early mass, at which the whole community receives

holy communion. This is administered by the priest through a square

opening in the iron grating dividing the nuns from the altar. At

eight, or at latest nine o'clock in the evening, all are in bed,

whence they rise again at midnight (in some orders at two o'clock in

the morning, but this custom involves rising somewhat later, generally

five o'clock) for matins and lauds.

The duties of separate departments are judiciously divided among the

sisters. There is the infirmarian; the _économe_, or housekeeper,

to whose share falls the supplying of the larder; the librarian, the

sacristan, the portress (often in cloistered orders this position,

which is exceptional in its exemptions, involves the ordering of

outside business matters), the care-taker of the garments and linen,

the gardener, the secretary, the mistress and sub-mistress of novices.

The house is managed like clockwork. Punctually as the bell rings each

sister goes to the task appointed for that hour, and leaves it, no

matter how important or absorbing it may be, for the duty appointed

by the rule for the next division of time. Silence prevails among the

sisters at almost all hours: for at most three times a day speech is

permitted, and seldom for more than half an hour at a time. During

meals one sister reads the _Lives of the Saints_ aloud. Each in her

turn takes the place of server at table. The superioress alone has

power to dispense with the rule of silence in case of necessity, as

she transacts most of the business, social or legal, of her community.

During the year of novitiate the novices are under the direct rule

of the mistress of novices, whose authority over them is paramount,

though she herself is of course under a vow of obedience to the

superior. When a novice receives a visit from one in the world she is

accompanied by the "mistress," and if the visitor be a near relation

and a woman the curtain behind the grating is withdrawn; if only a

friend, the visitor does not even see the nun, as the thick curtain

is drawn, and the only communication possible is by speech. It is

generally possible, on any necessity arising, to obtain a special

permission to break through the rule of enclosure: this is done by

applying to the superior-general of the order, or in Rome to the Holy

Father, whose authority naturally supersedes all others. Sometimes

the power to dispense lies with the local superior, but it is a

prerogative seldom used, and wisely so. In every order the internal

government of each house is of an elective form, but when once chosen

the superiors exercise absolute authority. The community meets

every three years (in some orders every year) and chooses by vote a

superioress, an assistant superioress and a mistress of novices. Only

the professed nuns have a vote, and the majority carry the day.

These "officers," once appointed, rule the house and choose all minor

deputies themselves. The heads alone of each house assemble at the

death of the superior-general (or abbess, as she is styled in some

of the more ancient orders) and choose another, equally by vote, the

election being sometimes decided by only one vote. This assembly is

called a "chapter." The generals of most orders reside in Rome.

The year after the "clothing" of Sister Maria Colomba we witnessed the

final ceremony of her "profession"--that is, of her assuming the black

veil and renewing her religious vows _for life_. Hitherto, she had

been free to return to the world and marry: henceforth such a return

(unless by a dispensation so rarely given that it is practically

non-existent) would be sacrilege. The details of the ceremony vary in

different orders, and with those which are not cloistered the scene

is far less impressive. What we were going to see included the most

solemn forms ever used. This time the whole service took place behind

the grating: there were no "bridesmaids" now, no shadow of worldly

pomp was borrowed to enhance the last and momentous consecration of

religion. The novice knelt between the superior and the mistress of

novices, each bearing a lighted taper. The white veil was taken

from her head, and a black one, previously blessed with holy water

sprinkled over it in the form of a cross, substituted: the low chant

of the unseen choir of nuns sounded impressively as the echo of

another world. Then came the renewal of the dread vows, binding now

until death, and the voice of the young girl seemed firm though low:

her face wore a calm, peaceful look, subdued by the solemn occasion,

yet irrepressibly suggesting a joy unknown in the world, where joy is

seldom free from passion. The most interesting ceremony, however, was

yet to come. The slow chant shaped itself into the words of the psalm

_De Profundis_, the special prayer which in the Catholic Church is

reserved for the dead, and four professed nuns advanced toward their

new sister, who was now prostrate at the foot of the altar. Each held

the corner of a funeral pall, which they slowly; dropped over the

figure of Sister Maria Colomba, and, kneeling, held it over her until

the last verse of the psalm had been sung. This suggestive ceremony

closed the service. It is a forcible and picturesque type of the

complete severance of the nun's future life and interests from the

outside world, the death of her heart to all carnal affections, the

"dying daily" which Saint Paul calls the "life" of the Christian soul.

A long procession accompanied the newly-professed nun to the inner

rooms of the convent, and for this one day again she wore over the

black veil the bridal wreath, which to-morrow would be put away until

required for her last adornment in the coffin.

Ten years after our farewell to Sister Maria Colomba behind the

bars of the convent-parlor we saw her again, and, armed with a papal

permission, were shown by her over the whole convent. Those rare

occasions when a stranger is allowed to penetrate the "enclosure" are

always gala-days for the nuns. I remarked the blithe, youthful look

that shone on all their faces: Sister Maria Colomba herself, from a

pale, nervous girl, had expanded into a strong, hale, buxom woman. The

glow of health was on her cheek, the sparkle of innocent mirth shone

in her eye. There was one among the sisters who gleefully asked me to

guess at her age. She was a sweet, fresh-complexioned, matronly woman.

"Not more than fifty, good mother," was the answer.

She laughed and gently clapped her hands. "Add twenty years to that,"

she answered with an innocent burst of pride. Then she told how she

had entered the order while yet in her "teens," had held half the

offices of trust in the community, and had never missed any of the

most rigid fasts or absented herself once from the midnight office,

never having known so much as a day's ill-health. "Ah, a nun's life is

a healthy one, child, as well as a happy one," she said in conclusion.

We went over the kitchen, laundry, refectory, dormitories, chapel,

garden, etc. Just the same as before--a little "calvary" at one end

of the garden and a rough picture of a Madonna in an arbor, the

long, echoing corridors spotless as the deck of a man-of-war, and the

smiling faces making a very flower-garden of the community-room. We

left loaded with specimens of the nuns' work--Agnus Deis in frames of

silver filigree dotted with white roses and hanging from white satin

ribbon-bows; flake-like biscuits of peculiar flavor; and baskets,

pincushions, etc. of delicate workmanship. I do not know whether this

convent is still in the hands of the Dominicanesses, so many in Rome

having become barracks since the new royal authority superseded that

of the pope. But the picture of San Domenico e Sisto as it was in

1853 and 1863 may yet interest many who perhaps will never have the

opportunity of seeing such an establishment for themselves.

This is a very fair sample of the convents of the stricter and

cloistered orders: there are some exceptional houses, such as that of

the Sepolte Vive, where the rule is far more austere. There is but

one convent of this description in Rome, and I believe one or two in

France. It is a noteworthy fact that most of the strictest observances

of penance originated in France, and are continued there to this day.

This convent of the Sepolte Vive ("Buried Alive") is not formally

sanctioned by the papal authority, but only _tolerated_. The nuns

were forbidden more than ten years ago to admit any more novices, and

although the individual zeal of those who started the order was not

exactly censured, still a tacit intimation of its being considered

excessive and imprudent was given by the highest ecclesiastical court.

Among their customs (which much resemble those of the Trappist monks)

these nuns have that of digging their own graves, and as the cemetery

is small and included in the "enclosure," the oldest graves are opened

after a period of forty or fifty years, and the crumbling contents

ejected to make room for the lately deceased. The death of a nun's

nearest relation, be it father, mother, brother or sister, is made

known to the superior alone, and she in her turn announces it, _not_

to the bereaved one, but to the whole sisterhood, in this manner: They

are all assembled in the community-room, and admonished to "pray for

the soul of the father or mother" (as the case may be) "of one among

their number." To the day of her death the nun never knows how near

and dear by the ties of Nature may have been the soul for which she

has prayed every day since the announcement was made.

The Sepolte Vive, when found guilty of any breach of the rule, are

labeled with a ticket attached to their habit, and on which their

fault is written in large, conspicuous letters--for instance,

"Disobedience," "Curiosity," "Talkativeness"--and this they wear

at their ordinary avocations for as many hours as the superioress

commands. They never undress on going to bed, and wear the same habit

winter and summer, the stuff being too hot for the one and too cold

for the other; so that at all times the penance is the same. On the

wrists many of them wear iron manacles that graze the skin and cause

constant irritation at every turn of the hand: this is sometimes

imposed as a penance, but very often is voluntarily inflicted

on themselves by zealous members of the sisterhood. Before the

prohibition to receive additional novices the sisterhood consisted of

a fixed number, and when a vacancy occurred by the death of one the

place was filled by the first on the list of postulants. _This list

was always a large one_, and generally contained many names belonging

to the noblest families of Rome. These details were gathered from

the same lady who acted as madrina to the Dominican nun Sister Maria

Colomba; and when she and a friend obtained permission from the pope

to penetrate the "enclosure," the nuns told her that it was _twenty

years_ since the same privilege had been granted. For almost the space

of a generation no stranger had been seen or heard by them, for not

even the privilege of a grated and curtained parlor interview is

allowed to the Sepolte Vive. And yet with all this unparalleled

refinement of austerity they were as blithe and healthy a body of

women, as cheerful and youthful in manner, as peaceful and calm in

appearance, as could be found among the Sisters of Charity or the lay

members of an association of Mercy.

The Carmelites are an order spread wide over the Christian world. The

reform of Saint Teresa was sadly needed among these nuns three hundred

years ago, and the recital of the vehement opposition made to her

efforts shows the merit due to her. At the present day the order is

one of the strictest in existence. The habit is of coarse brown serge,

including the tunic and scapular, a cord round the waist, sandals (in

England and other northern climates shoes are allowed), a black veil

and an ample white cloak. They rise at two o'clock, winter and summer

alike, to sing matins, and when they retire to rest at night one of

their number walks through the corridors--in this order each nun has

a cell--springing a rattle and repeating in a clear tone a verse of

Scripture to serve as a subject of meditation before going to sleep.

In the choir the Carmelites are only permitted the use of three notes,

the reason alleged for this restriction being that the service of God

must not run the risk of becoming an occasion of temptation to the

singers. These nuns are very strictly cloistered, and their rules

regarding visitors are much the same as those described at length in

the beginning of this paper.

The cloistered orders are less numerous, but also less known, than the

communities formed for active duty, such as education and nursing

the sick; but in describing their constitution and rules we show the

reader the true basis on which the more modern and active orders are

constituted. The traditions of the spiritual life came down through

them, and they represent the principle of vicarious oblation

which animates all the different phases of convent life; i.e. the

substitution of a small body of voluntary servants of God for the

entire world, which ought to be perpetually engaged in His service

and worship. The Benedictines, Capuchins and Visitation nuns are also

cloistered, but the last are the only ones of this description who are

likewise teachers of youth. Many very superior women belong to this

order, which, except for the enclosure, practices no special physical

austerities. The principle of the rule is the subduing of the will

and the curbing of the spirit. The order is a recent one, and was

instituted by Saint Francis of Sales while Beza ruled in Geneva and

the Reformation had just disturbed the religious balance of Europe.

With consummate prudence the new order was directed to employ the

means best understood by the age. Cold calculation had succeeded to

ardent zeal: the public mind no longer instinctively revered the old

heroic type of dragon-tamers, be they called Roland or Saint Benedict.

The new current required a new rudder, and the Visitation nuns

supplied the need. At first they were not even meant to be cloistered,

but to form a kind of missionary society (as their very name implies)

among the Calvinists of Savoy and France. This original intention was

soon overruled by the Italian advisers of Saint Francis: the southern

European mind has ever been slow to conceive the idea of a more

spiritual protection than bolts and bars. But even in their cloistered

sphere the Visitation nuns clung to useful, active work, and became

a teaching order. They and the Ursulines (who in Italy, at least, are

cloistered) shared this task among them till the more modern order of

the "Sacred Heart" almost monopolized it. I have myself known women

of the most tried virtue and rare learning among the "Visitandines."

Their rule is less strict about visitors, and even strangers are

admitted to the parlor without a curtain being drawn behind the

grating. Their features are thus perfectly visible, and you can even

shake hands between the bars.

Even to this day there is hardly a noble family of Catholic Europe

that has not one or more representatives among the religious orders.

In England, both among "converts" and families of old Catholic stock,

there are many girls whose names have been absorbed into those given

at the same time as the ring and veil of a novice. In Flanders

there are fully half a dozen convents--at Bruges, Antwerp and

Louvain--emphatically called "English," and founded by scions of great

English families exiled for their adherence to the old faith under

Elizabeth and James I. They are mostly Augustinians. The new order of

the "Sacred Heart" has drawn to it women from Russia, Spain, America,

as well as from its native land of France, and the Sisters of Charity

have won a worldwide fame in the hospitals of the East and the recent

battle-fields of the West.

I have dwelt chiefly on the life of the old contemplative, cloistered

orders, because they are less known to the public and more mistakes

are made about their constitution and rules, and also because in these

old cradle-institutions are hidden the roots of the whole religious

system which to this day crops out so vigorously in works of mercy

over every land where the Catholic Church has a foothold. Among the

uncloistered orders of religious women--and here we expect to be

better understood and more fairly met by those whose knowledge

of "religion" is not personal--there are many that fulfill heroic

missions, perform useful tasks, or even silent, uncomplaining

drudgery. In all large European towns the _cornette_ of the Sister

of St. Vincent of Paul is seen in hospital, prison and asylum, in the

garret of the dying workman as well as by the bed where the warrior

lies in state--in the humble schools of the lowest suburbs and in the

_crèches_ of the darkest byways.

The crèche--so called in remembrance of the crib of Bethlehem--is

an institution of the greatest use to poor women obliged to work for

their living. They either find their children an insuperable bar

to their labor, or else a source of constant anxiety during their

absence. To the crèche, however, they can take the little ones in the

early morning and leave them till late at night, paying only a

small sum, such as five cents a day, if they are able, while if

circumstances warrant their being exempted even this is not required.

The house is supported chiefly by voluntary contributions, and the

sisters often have lay assistants eager to share in their labor of

love. The children are taken in at all ages, the tiniest, unweaned

infant not excepted: there are little cots of all sizes prepared for

them, an abundance of milk, toys for the older ones, picture-books,

etc. They are fed three times a day, washed and combed before being

sent home (although constant applicants are expected to bring their

children tidy and neat on first arrival), and if the mother fails to

return at night, they are of course housed with the tenderest care. As

there would be no room to accommodate permanent baby-boarders without

impairing the original intention for which the crèche is opened, these

little waifs, if not claimed after three nights and days, are sent to

the foundling asylum: this, however, does not often occur. There are

many of these institutions scattered through France: London has two,

and New York will soon have one--perhaps by this time it has already

been opened. A woman earning her bread by hard work would have to

leave her children in the care of some neighbor, who most likely would

fail in her task or teach the children bad things, and demand some

compensation all the same. If the eldest child were left in charge

of younger infants, as is so often the case with the honest poor, the

chances are that it will break or injure its spine by carrying

the little ones. All this anxiety is avoided by this beautiful and

inviting arrangement, which is generally under the management of the

Sisters of Charity. The London crèches have a night school for working

girls and grown women in connection with the principal part of the

institution; also a Sunday school for children. Among the rules is one

which forbids the wearing of artificial flowers or any tawdry finery

during school-time. But in another part of London artificial flowers

in a Sunday bonnet are a sign of a reclaimed female drunkard, as the

clergyman has hit on the ingenious method of advising the women to

leave off drinking, that they may be able to afford some Sunday finery

wherewith to please their husbands' eyes and to hold up their heads

with the best in church!

Old age is as helpless as infancy, and less attractive in its

helplessness, so that the task undertaken by the Little Sisters of the

Poor is still more meritorious when performed in the devoted spirit

which characterizes them. They are literally the servants of beggars:

they are bound to possess nothing and to hoard nothing; they live on

the refuse of refuse, begging the crumbs from rich men's tables to

feed the hungry ones under their care, and when these are satisfied

sitting down to the scanty remains. They have a large establishment

in London, which I once visited, but which has since been divided

into two, the aim of both continuing the same. The sisters wear a very

unpretending black gown and cap: when out of doors they add to this

a poke-bonnet and thick veil, with a large black shawl. They have a

little donkey-cart, which they drive themselves, and which makes daily

pilgrimages all over town, stopping at the houses of the rich of all

denominations and receiving contributions of that which is too often

thought below the cook's while to claim as a perquisite. So laden, the

Little Sisters return to their old people, and a transformation begins

in the vast kitchen. No one would believe what savory dishes

they manufacture out of the leavings and parings of great houses:

everything is sifted, cleaned, washed, as the case requires; each kind

of food is carefully separated and placed in its appointed place; an

immense cauldron is continually on the fire, and soups and jellies are

in a constant state of fusion and preparation. Puddings of all sorts

come out of the renovating oven: joints of roast meat are the only

things which are exceptional, and sometimes the more generous charity

of some outsider adds even this luxury to the usual fare. The Little

Sisters of the Poor clothe as well as feed their charges: for this,

too, they trust to charity, and left-off clothes are a great boon to

them. They are so ingenious that there is hardly a thing of which they

cannot make a deft use. They have houses in New York and Philadelphia,

and already do an immense deal of good among the destitute aged poor.

The Order of Sion is a rather peculiar one, its principal object

being the conversion to Christianity and subsequent education of

young Jewesses. It has been founded within the last forty years by

the brothers Ratisbonne, both of them Jews of distinction converted

to Christianity. The elder brother (they are both priests now)

superintends the order in Europe: the younger resides at

the mother-house at Jerusalem. The convent is an educational

establishment, where the daughters of Orientals of all kinds are

received--Jews, Arabs, Syrians, Armenians, etc. In Europe the houses,

of course, do not confine themselves to Jewish pupils, else they would

find less work than their many hands could do, but receive boarders

and give a solid education like the other and more fashionable

convents. As a child I lived nearly a year in one of these houses, a

large, roomy, silent villa, two hours from Paris. Behind the house

was a garden and grove crossed in all directions by bewildering

little paths leading into unexpected hollows where a rustic altar

and statuette of Our Lady would be placed, or a crucifix erected in

startling loneliness on a little hillock. A wide avenue of lime trees,

where the pupils might be seen early in the morning studying their

tasks, or in the afternoon eating their luncheon of grapes and brown

bread, traversed this grove in a straight line, and here on certain

feast-days nuns and pupils would form picturesque processions, with

the customary banners, tapers, white veils and swelling hymns. Here

the Ratisbonne brothers came to rest from their work of furthering the

interests of the order--the elder a fatherly, portly man with white

hair and a gentle manner, the younger a bronzed, black-bearded man,

a true Oriental, with enthusiasm expressed in every line of his

countenance and every flash of his piercing eye. He was only on a

visit at that time, and then, as now, made Jerusalem his permanent

home. There are one or two convents of this order in England, but I

think none as yet in America.

The convent of the Assumption at Auteuil, a suburb of Paris, is one

renowned for its excellent educational advantages. I spent a week

there one winter on a visit to a near relative among the pupils, and

had an opportunity to observe the clock-like life of the place. All

the girls I have known to be educated there were better scholars than

any brought up elsewhere. There were many English and American girls,

besides Poles, Germans and West Indian Creoles. The war of 1860-64

left traces of strange animosity among the Northern and Southern

children: it was hardly credible that such a spirit could animate

young children so long removed from the immediate home influences that

would otherwise have accounted for the feeling. Among the nuns were

several English women, clever and deeply read, but softer-hearted than

most scholars who have had too much to do with the world. There was

also a sister of Père Hyacinthe among the Assumptionists, and the

great orator himself often came to the convent-chapel to preach simple

little sermons to the school-girls. His sister was terribly crushed

by the news of his defection from the Catholic Church, and, I believe,

refused even to see him again.

A very beautiful scene which I witnessed on the 8th of December in

this convent was the renewal of the vows. The mass was celebrated in

the chapel at five in the morning, of course by gas- and candle-light.

The body of the chapel was perfectly clear, the community sat in

carved wooden stalls round the altar, the pupils assisted from the

galleries above, and hidden under the gallery was the small but very

perfect choir of nuns and children. The hymns of Père Hermann, a

famous pianist and composer, a pupil of Liszt, a convert from Judaism,

and afterward a Carmelite friar, are very popular in France, and of

these the music chiefly consisted. At the communion the superioress

stepped forward, wearing the white woolen mantle (which with a purple

tunic is the complete dress of this order) and knelt to receive the

holy sacrament. A nun in the same costume, bearing a lighted taper and

bowing almost to the ground, stood on each side of her as the priest

communicated her, and so on till the whole sisterhood had each knelt

separately and the bowing figures, like attendant angels, had

done homage to each as the tabernacle, for a time, of the blessed

sacrament. When the mass was over each professed sister solemnly read

over the formula of her religious vows before a table on which lay

a crucifix, which each reverently kissed in token of rededication of

herself to the divine service.

The order of the Good Shepherd is one that is known throughout the

world. It has branch houses in every country. The one to which I shall

specially refer is in New York. It stands on the banks of the East

River, overlooking Astoria and Long Island, and from its top windows

the eye reaches far up the Sound. Like all convents, it is marvelously

clean. The order is devoted to the reclaiming of fallen women, and in

this instance the house is a government reformatory. A certain

annual subsidy is guaranteed by the city authorities, but voluntary

contributions and the industry of the inmates give more than half

toward the real support of the house. Three sorts of women are

under the care of the nuns: (1) those whom the judges send there as

criminals for a specified term; (2) those whom their friends send

in hope of their being quietly reformed without the intervention of

justice; and (3) those who seek of their own accord to do penance and

earn forgiveness for their sins. This is of course the most hopeful

class, and it frequently happens that these penitents become in time

permanent inmates, and even nuns. In the latter case, as the rule of

the order does not allow of the reception of any woman with a stain on

her reputation, they are clothed in the habit of the Carmelite Third

Order (brown serge tunic and black veil), in which the austerities are

not very great. They go through the usual novitiate and make their

vows in the regular manner: they are then called "Magdalens," and

inhabit a portion of the house reserved for them, say their office

at stated hours in their own chapel, contiguous to that of the Good

Shepherd nuns, and live under obedience to the superioress of the

latter. I saw about a dozen of them taking their evening walk in a

pretty enclosed garden by the river-side. Other women who do not feel

inclined to so full a renunciation of their liberty bind themselves

by a promise, good for one year only, to the service of the house, and

wear a semi-religious kind of cap and a scarlet badge with the letter

_P_ or _F_: they are divided into two classes, under the patronage of

Saint Joseph and Saint Patrick. They renew the promise from year to

year, and often spend their lives in this lay sisterhood of penance.

Every inmate, be she prisoner or penitent, is taught to sew, first

by hand, then on the machine: many on their first entrance are so

ignorant that they do not know on which finger to place the thimble,

but after a while most are able to do a good day's work on common

shirts and linen articles which the order contracts for with the

wholesale shops. Another source of profit to the house is the laundry,

but this is conducted exclusively by the nuns themselves. They do all

the washing of surplices, altar-cloths, etc. for most of the Catholic

churches of New York, for the convents and colleges, and for many

private families. The fluting on children's frocks and the polish on

shirts is something wonderful, and the young nun who superintends

the concern seemed to be a real enthusiast in the matter. The nuns'

dormitories, as well as those of the prisoners, are miracles of

neatness; the refectories likewise. There are various immense airy

halls where the nuns and girls sit sewing, and where a stranger sees

a spectacle new to most people, certainly unexpected by the greater

number--that of an assemblage of ugly faces, each belonging to

an _unfortunate_ whose temptations are usually understood to lie

originally in her fatal beauty. Many of them are scarcely fourteen,

and if once admitted, the melancholy chance is that they will be here

again time after time: the sentences are seldom long enough to afford

room for thought and conversion. Among the penitents the cases are

far more hopeful, but the gentle sisters never forget their kind,

conciliatory manner toward all; and unless a perverse demon whispers

to their ear that these nuns are their _jailers_, the poor prisoners

see little to remind them that they are not in a voluntarily chosen

home.

Nuns are by no means a shiftless, unbusiness-like set of women: they

can look after themselves as well as after the poor and forlorn:

many of them, were they in the world, would be called strong-minded,

blue-stockinged women. At Montreal there is a large establishment

of the Sisters of the Congrégation de Notre Dame, generally called

Congregation Sisters, founded by Margaret Bourgeoys. They are the

great educational sisters of Lower Canada. They own St. Paul's Island,

some distance above the city: this is their farm, and one of the nuns,

called the sister économe, has to visit it frequently and superintend

matters, being the stewardess and committee of ways and means and

revenue department combined. Of course a good horse is desirable for

these drives, and their horses being one source of profit, the économe

feels that the reputation of the breed ought not to be depreciated

by her own "turnout." The young men of the town often meet her on the

road and try to distance her, but this she will never permit, and her

horse, faultlessly groomed and in splendid condition, always comes

off the winner in these innocent races. One day, however, the

bishop, having heard of this rivalry on the road, sent for her and

remonstrated, alleging that such "fast" conduct might lend itself to

scandalous rumors, and was altogether unbecoming in a _religious_. The

nun smiled, and protested that she was ready to obey her superiors'

orders in every particular, as all good Catholics and good religious

are bound to do, but slyly insinuated the following cogent argument:

"Does not Your Lordship think, however, that, since our convent lives

partly on the reputation of this famous breed of trotters, it is

hardly for the credit of the house that its representative conveyance

should drag along as dejectedly as a street-vendor's donkey-cart?"

What the bishop's reply was "the deponent sayeth not," but we may

infer that this shrewd woman was at least as capable of controlling a

wide meshwork of business details as he was of managing his diocese.

Now, there are many such women in convents, for the religious

life leads not, as people think, to a renunciation of your own

self-dependence, but on the contrary to the highest kind of confidence

in your own power _when backed by the help of Almighty God_. Saint

Teresa of Spain once said these memorable words: "Teresa and tenpence

are nothing: Teresa, tenpence _and God_ are omnipotent."

LADY BLANCHE MURPHY.

THE ATONEMENT OF LEAM DUNDAS.

BY MRS. E. LYNN LINTON, AUTHOR OF "PATRICIA KEMBALL."

CHAPTER XXV.

SMALL CAUSES.

The frost came early this year; and by the second week in December

the ponds and shallows in the neighborhood of North Aston were covered

with ice that made good sliding-grounds for the children. Presently

it grew and spread till the deeper waters were frozen over, and a

skating-rink was formed of the Broad that bore the heavier weights

without danger. It was a merry time for the North Astonians; and even

the elder men strapped on their skates and took colds and contusions

in their endeavors to double back on their supple youth and to forget

the stiffer facts of time. As for the young people, they were in the

full swing of innocent enjoyment; and the girls wished that the frost

would last through the whole of the winter, so that they might make

up skating-parties with the boys every day, and avoid the unmeaning

deadness of "tender" weather.

This ice had been in perfect condition for three days and the Broad

had been thronged, but Leam had not appeared. All the other young

ladies of the country had come, Adelaide Birkett one of the most

diligent in her attendance, for was not Edgar Harrowby one of the

most constant in his? But though more than one pair of eyes had looked

anxiously along the road that led to Ford House, which some people

still continued to call Andalusia Cottage, no lithe, graceful figure

had been seen gliding between the frosted hedgerows, and Edgar, like

Alick, had skated in disappointment, the former with the feeling of an

actor playing to an empty house when he made his finest turns and she

was not there to see them; the latter with the self-reproach of one

taking enjoyment abroad while the beloved is sitting in solitude and

dreariness at home.

At last, on the fourth day, she came down with her father; and to at

least two on the ground the advent of a slender-waisted girl with dark

eyes and small feet changed the whole aspect of things, and made life

for the moment infinitely more beautiful and desirable than it had

been. It was a brilliant day, with as fine a sun as England can show

in winter--no wind, but a clear air, crisp, dry and exhilarating,

Every one was there--Edgar, the most graceful of the skaters; Alick,

the most awkward; Dr. Corfield, essaying careful little spurts,

schoolboy fashion, along the edges; and the portly rector, proud

to show his past superiority in sharp criticism on the style of the

present day as a voucher for his own greater grace and skill in the

days when he too was an Adonis for the one part and an Admirable

Crichton for the other, and carried no superfluous flesh about his

ribs. Among them, too, looking on the scene as if it was something in

which he had no inherited share, as if these were not men and women to

whom he was sib on Adam's side, but cunningly contrived machines whose

movements he contemplated with benign indifference, was to be seen the

mild philosophic occupant of Lionnet--that Mr. Gryce of whom no one

knew more than that he studied dead languages through the day and

caught moths and beetles in the twilight, had come without letters of

introduction and was never seen at church; hence that he was a man of

whom to beware, and a dangerous element among them. The pendulum of

acceptance, which had swung so far on one side in the unguaranteed

reception of Madame de Montfort, had now gone back to the

corresponding extent on the other; and no one, not even Mr. Birkett as

the clergyman, nor Mr. Dundas as the landlord, had held out a finger

to the new-comer, not to speak of a hand; while all regarded

his presence at North Aston as rather a liberty than otherwise.

Nevertheless, as time would show, though he had come there without

purpose and lived among the people without interest, he would not be

found without his uses, and one at least of the threads making up the

skein of life at North Aston would be placed in his hands.

As Leam came to the side both Edgar Harrowby and Alick Corfield turned

to greet her, the usually sad face of the curate, already brightened

by fresh air and exercise, brighter still at seeing her, the handsome

head of the squire held a little higher as his figure involuntarily

straightened and he put out his best powers in her honor. But Alick's

shambling legs carried him fastest, and he was first at the edge, the

neighborhood looking on, prepared to build a Tower of Babel heaven

high on the foundation of a single brick. Leam Dundas had not yet been

fitted with her hypothetical mate, and people wanted to see to whom

they were to give her.

"Oh, come on with me!" cried Alick as soon as he came up, speaking

with the unconscious familiarity of gladness at the advent for which

he had watched so long. He held out his arm to Leam crooked awkwardly

at the elbow.

"No," said Leam a little shortly.

She always stiffened when Alick spoke to her before folk with anything

like intimacy in his manner. He was her good friend, granted, and she

liked him in a way and respected him in a way, though he was still too

much after the pattern of her former slave and dog to gain her best

esteem. She was one of those women who are arbitrary and disdainful to

masculine weakness, and require to be absolutely dominated by men if

they are to respect them as men like to be respected by women, and

as--_pace_ the Shriekers--the true woman likes to respect men. And

Alick, though he had her in his hands and might destroy her at a

word--clergyman, too, as he was, and thus possessing the key to higher

things than she knew--was always so humble, so subservient, he made

her feel as if she was his superior--not, as it should have been, that

he was hers. In consequence, girl-like, proud and shy, she treated

him with more disdain than she ought to have done, and used the power

which he himself gave her without much consideration as to its effect.

Besides, she did not wish to let people think he knew too much of

her. With the nervous fancy of youth, ever believing itself to be

transparent and understood all through, she imagined it would be seen

that he had the right to speak to her familiarly--that he had her in

his hand to destroy her at a word if so minded. Wherefore she said

"No" shortly, and turned away her eyes as her protest against his glad

face, crooked elbow and eager offer.

"I will not let you fall, and it is very jolly," cried Alick cheerily,

more like the boyish Alick of former days than the ascetic young

curate of modern times.

"I do not like it," said Leam.

Alick's countenance fell; and when his face, always long, became

longer still, with a congealed-looking skin, sad, red-lidded eyes

and a hanging under lip, it was not lovely. Indeed, according to

the miserable fatality which so often makes the spiritually best the

physically worst--like the gods whom the Athenians enclosed in outer

cases of satyrs and hideous masks of misshapen men--Alick's face was

never lovely. But his soul? If that could have been seen, the old

carved parable of the Greeks would have been justified.

"Nonsense, Leam! Why cannot you do as others do?" cried Mr. Dundas.

He wanted to get rid of her for a while, and he was not unwilling that

Alick, whose affection he suspected, should rid him of her for ever

if he cared to saddle himself for life with such an uncomfortable

companion.

"I do not like it," repeated Leam.

"Nonsense!" said her father again. "Other girls are on. Why should you

not join them? I see Adelaide Birkett and the Fairbairns. Why not go

to them with Alick?"

"It looks silly balancing one's self on the edge of a knife. And I

should fall," said Leam.

"No, you shall not fall," Alick pleaded. "I will undertake that you

shall not."

His arm was still held out, always awkwardly crooked.

Leam lifted her eyes. "No," she said with her old calm decision, and

moved away. Four years ago she would have supplemented her refusal by

the words, "You are stupid. You tease me," Now she contented herself

with action and accent.

Alick, very sorry, moist-eyed from disappointment, but not caring to

stand there and get chilled--for our good Alick was a little afraid

of cold, after the manner of mothers' sons in general--skated off

again to keep up his circulation, his knees bent, his chin forward,

his arms swinging as balance-weights to his long body, the ends of

his white woolen comforter flying behind him, and his legs running

anywhere, the clumsiest and most ungraceful skater on the Broad. All

the same, he never fell, and he went faster than even Edgar in his

perfection of manly elegance.

Edgar had watched the whole of this little scene between Leam and

Alick while seeming to be occupied only in executing his spread eagles

and outside curves to perfection, and it was no secret to him what

it meant. The demon of masculine vanity, never far off where a pretty

woman was concerned, entered and took possession of him. He would

succeed where Alick Corfield had failed, and Leam, who refused her old

friend, should gratify her new. He had been guiding Adelaide over the

ice, but she was rather too stiff in her movements, not sufficiently

pliant nor yielding to be a very pleasant skating companion. And he

had been pushing Josephine along the slide, but Joseph was too stout

and short-breathed to be an ideal convoy; also he had been racing and

half romping with the Fairbairn girls, who slipped and tumbled and

laughed and screamed--more hoydenish than he thought pleasing; but

now he intended to reward himself with Leam, whose action he was sure

would be all that was delightful, even though unaccustomed, and who

would look so well on his arm. Her slight and supple figure against

his breadth and height and sense of solidity and strength, her dark

hair and his beard of tawny brown, her large dark eyes and his of true

Saxon blue, her southern face, oval in shape, cream-colored in tint,

and his, square, open, ruddy, Scandinavian,--yes, they would make

a splendid pair by their very contrast; and Edgar, narrowing his

ambition to his circumstances, was quietly resolved to win the day

over Alick Corfield by inducing Leam to cross the Broad with him

after she had so manifestly refused her old friend. It was but a small

object of ambition, but we must do what we can, thought Edgar; and

it is the best wisdom to content ourselves with mice when we have no

lions to destroy. He did not, however, rush up to her with Alick's

tactless precipitancy. He waited just long enough for her to desire,

and not so long as to disappoint; then, speaking to Adelaide by the

way, and giving her and Josephine each a helping hand, he came in

a series of clean, showy curves to where Leam and her father were

standing.

Leam was glad to meet again this handsome man who had seen so much and

who talked so well. He was something different from the rest, and

so far superior to them all. But, not being one of those instinctive

girls who yield without pressure and fall in love at first sight,

there were no flushings nor palpitations as Edgar came up; only a

grave little smile stole half timidly over her face, and she forgot

that he had insulted her mother's country by calling her the prettiest

Andalusian he had ever seen.

"Do you skate, Miss Dundas?" asked Edgar after a while, during which

he had been talking of different matters, beginning with the weather,

that camel of English conversation, and ending with the state of the

ice and the chances of a thaw. His five minutes of commonplaces seemed

an eternity to Adelaide, watching them jealously from a distance.

"No," said Leam.

"I want her to learn; and this is a good opportunity," put in her

father.

"You are right. It is a capital exercise and a graceful

accomplishment," said Edgar. "I think a woman never looks better than

when she is skating," he added carelessly.

"I think she looks silly," said Leam.

He laughed. "That is because you are not English _pur sang_," he cried

gayly. "If you had only the brave old Norse blood in you, you would

take to the frost and ice like second nature."

"No, I am not English _pur sang_," answered Leam gravely. "I am more

than half Spanish," a little proudly.

"Hang it all, you can't make it more than half!" said her father

testily.

"And that makes such a splendid combination," said Edgar, slightly

lowering his voice as, ignoring his remark, he turned away from Mr.

Dundas and gave himself wholly to Leam. "Spanish for art and poetry

and all the fervid beauty of the South--English for the courage,

the hardihood, the energy of the North. You ought to cultivate the

characteristics of both nationalities, Miss Dundas," in a louder tone;

"and to do justice to one of them you ought to learn to skate."

"That's right, Edgar; so I say," cried Mr. Dundas, who had heard only

the last part.

"I cannot learn," said Leam; but her face became strangely flushed,

and she felt her resolution growing limp as her cheeks grew red.

"Yes, you can. I could teach you in half an hour," cried Edgar,

pulling down his coat-cuffs with an air.

"Go, Leam: let Major Harrowby give you a lesson," said her father.

"Perhaps he is a better teacher than that shambling-looking Alick. Go,

child."

"Shall I?" asked Edgar. "At least let me assist you to cross the ice,

if without skates at first."

He held out his hand.

"I shall fall," objected reluctant Leam.

"No, you shall not. I will answer for that. Come. Will you not trust

me?" This last phrase was said half tenderly, half with an offended

kind of remonstrance, and he was still holding out his hand.

"Go, Leam," urged her father.

"It is silly, and I shall fall," repeated Leam.

Nevertheless, she put her hand in Edgar's, and he took her on his arm

in triumph.

At first her steps were slow and timid; but as her feet grew more

accustomed to the unusual ground, as she gained more confidence in

the strong arm that held her like a bar of iron, as her youth began

to assert itself in the physical pleasure of the fresh air and the

gliding movement, she lost her shyness and timidity, and she found

herself almost laughing--she, who never laughed and only so rarely

smiled.

"You like it?" he asked, looking down on her with a man's admiration

for a pretty woman marked in every line and feature.

"Yes, so much!" she answered, her usual reserved, self-centred manner

for the moment lost.

"Now you will know how to trust me in future," he said not very

loudly.

She looked up to him, carrying her eyes right into his. "Yes, I will,"

she answered simply.

At this moment Alick joined them, and Leam suddenly lost her new-found

joy.

"I am glad you have come on at last," said her faithful dog, effacing

himself and his disappointment with an effort.

"They made me," Leam replied.

"I hope not against your will and not to your displeasure," said

Edgar, still looking down into her face with the man's admiration of a

woman's beauty so strongly marked in his own.

"No," she answered: "I have liked it."

"Let us take her between us, major, and give her a good spin," said

Alick, grasping the upper part of her arm uncomfortably.

Edgar slightly pressed the hand he held crosswise. "Would you like to

double your protectors?" he asked. "Shall I share my office?"

"No," said Leam. "I like best to be with one person only."

"And possession being the nine points, let us go on," laughed Edgar,

whirling her away. "By the by, would you have preferred my giving

you to Mr. Corfield as 'the one person only'?" he asked with affected

doubt, making pretence of wishing to know her mind. He was skating

rapidly now. It was as good as flying to Leam, and she was happy and

very grateful.

"I would rather be with you," she answered.

"Thanks!" said Edgar, and smiled.

"He is awkward, and you are not," continued Leam, anxious to explain.

"But I like him very much. He is good and kind; and he cannot help

being awkward, can he?"

"No," said Edgar coldly. "So you like him very much, do you?"

"Very much," repeated Leam with loyal emphasis, "He has always been my

friend here."

"I hope for the future that I may be included in that sacred place,"

said Edgar after a pause.

Leam looked at him slowly, fixedly. "You will never be so good to me

as he is," she answered.

It was the man's heart that beat now, the man's cheek that flushed.

Who could keep his pulses still when those eyes were turned to his

with, as it seemed, such maddening meaning? "I will try," he said; and

from that moment the die was cast. Edgar put himself in competition

with Alick: he lowered his pride to such a rivalry as this, and threw

his whole energies into the determination to surpass and supplant a

man for whom even the least personable of his own sex need have had no

fear.

He kept Leam for a long time after this, laying ground-lines for the

future; forgetting Adelaide and the suitability which had hitherto

been such an important factor in his calculations; forgetting his

horror of Pepita, whose daughter Leam was, and his contempt for weak,

fusionless Mr. Dundas, who was her father; forgetting the conventional

demands of his class, intolerant of foreign blood; forgetting all but

the words which said that Alick was her best friend here, and doubted

his (Edgar's) ever being so good to her as that other had been. It was

on his heart now to convince her that he could be as good to her as

Alick, and, if she would allow him, a great deal better. At last he

slackened, and pulled up at the group of which the Fairbairn girls and

Adelaide Birkett were the most conspicuous members.

"What a long skate you have had!" said Susy Fairbairn ruefully, for

all that she was a good-tempered girl and not disposed to measure her

neighbor's wheat by her own bushel. But this was a special matter; for

Edgar Harrowby was the pride of the place, and they took count of his

doings as of their local prince, and envied the lucky queen of the

hour bitterly or sadly according to the mood and the person.

"It was the first time I had tried," said Leam, all aglow with the

unwonted exercise and unusual excitement.

"I suppose you began by saying you could not and would not, and then

did more than any one else?" said Adelaide in an acrid voice, veiling

a very displeased face with a very unpleasant smile; but the veil was

too transparent and showed the displeasure with palpable plainness.

Leam looked at her in a half-surprised way. Jealousy was a passion

of which she was wholly ignorant, and she did not understand the

key-note. She knew nothing of the unspoken affair between Edgar and

the rector's daughter, and could not read between the lines. Why was

Adelaide cross because she had been a long time upon the ice? Did it

hurt her? They had not been near her--not interfered with her in any

way: why should she be vexed that they, Major Harrowby and herself,

had been enjoying themselves? So she thought, gazing at Adelaide with

the serious, searching look which always irritated that young lady,

and at this moment almost unbearably.

"I wonder they did not teach you at school that it was rude to stare

as you do, Leam," she cried with impolitic haste and bitterness. "What

are you looking at? Am I changing into a monster, or what?"

"I am looking at you because you are so cross about nothing," answered

Leam gravely. "What does it matter to any one if I have been on the

ice long or no? Why should you be angry?" "Angry!" said Adelaide with

supreme disdain. "I am not sufficiently interested in what you do,

Leam, to be angry or cross, as you call it. I confess I do not like

affectation: that is all."

"Neither do I like affectation," returned Leam. "People should say

what they feel."

"Indeed! That might not always be agreeable," said Adelaide with her

most sarcastic air. "Perhaps it is as well that the laws of politeness

keep one's mouth shut at times, and that we do not say what we feel."

"It would be better," insisted Leam.

"I wonder if you would say so were I to tell you what I thought of you

now?" Adelaide replied, measuring her scornfully with her eyes.

"Why should you not? What have I done to be ashamed of?" Leam asked.

"And you call yourself natural and not affected!" Adelaide cried,

turning away abruptly.--"How wrong," she said in a low voice to Edgar,

"turning the head of such a silly child as this!"

Edgar laughed. The vein of cruelty traversing his nature made him find

more amusement than chagrin in Adelaide's patent jealousy: he thought

she was silly, and he was rather amazed at her want of dignity; still,

it was amusing, and he enjoyed it as so much fun.

But when he laughed Leam's discomfiture was complete. "I am sorry I

came on the ice at all," she said with a mixture of her old pride and

new softness that made her infinitely lovely, the proud little head

held high, but the beautiful eyes dewy. "I have offended every one,

and I do not know why." Just then Alick came rambling by. She held out

her hand to him. Here at least was her friend and faithful follower.

He would not jeer at her nor laugh, nor yet look cross and angry, as

if she had done wrong. "Take me to papa," she said superbly, making as

if to withdraw her other hand from Edgar.

Alick's homely face brightened like the morning. "Certainly," he said.

"Certainly not," flashed Edgar proudly, taking both her hands in his

crosswise and grasping them even more firmly than before. "You are in

my charge, Miss Dundas, and I can give you up to no one else--not even

by your own desire."

Adelaide's slight cast became an unmistakable squint; the Fairbairn

girls fluttered, half frightened at the chance of a fracas; Alick

looked irresolute; Edgar looked haughty and displeased; Leam tragic

and proud, partly bewildered, partly distressed.

Then Edgar cut the whole thing short by taking her away in silence,

but like a whirlwind, saying, when half over the ground and well out

of hearing, "What have I done to you, Miss Dundas, that you should try

to throw me over like that?"

"You laughed at me," said Leam.

"Laughed at you? You are dreaming."

"You did," she persisted.

"Pardon me: I laughed because my little friend Adelaide was so cross

at your skating. It was fun to see her so angry."

"I saw no fun in it," Leam returned. "I only saw that she was angry

with me, and impertinent, and that then you laughed at me."

"I swear to you I did not," cried Edgar earnestly. "Will you believe

me? Tell me, Miss Dundas, that you exonerate me from such a charge.

Tell me that you are sure I did not laugh at you."

Leam looked at him with her large luminous eyes serious, questioning.

"If you say so, I must believe you," she answered slowly, "but I

thought you did."

"If you could read my heart, you would know I did not," he said

emphatically.

They were close on the bank now, where Mr. Dundas was walking with the

rector.

"Say you believe me," Edgar almost whispered in his rich musical

voice, so sweet and tender. "Say it, I beseech you! You do not know

how I shall suffer else."

She looked at him again. "I do," she said in the manner of a

surrender, the grave little smile which was her most eloquent

expression of pleasure stealing over her face.

"Thank you," said Edgar: "now you have made me happy."

"I do not understand why," she answered with serious simplicity.

"Perhaps you will some day," he replied as her father came down to

receive her, rather more content with her than he usually was, seeing

that Edgar Harrowby--Major Harrowby, the possessor of the Hill and

some thousands a year--had singled her out for his special attention,

and had made a picture on the ice almost as pretty as an illustrated

weekly.

But Edgar, not wishing to go too far in the way of provocation, nor

to burn his boats behind him before he had decided on his settlement,

skated off to Adelaide so soon as he had deposited Leam, and by a few

judicious praises and well-administered tendernesses of voice and look

succeeded in bringing her back to her normal condition of quiescent

resolve and satisfaction. Then, when she was her smiling self

again--for if she had frowns for many others, she had always

smiles for the Harrowbys as a race, and specially for Edgar as an

individual--he said, in the manner of one wishing to know the truth of

a thing, "What made you so savage to Miss Dundas just now?"

"I cannot bear her," said Adelaide with energy.

"No, I see that you dislike her; but why?"

"I can hardly tell you: she has never done anything very bad, but I

always feel as if she could, she is so silent, so reserved, so odd

altogether."

"A woman's reason!" he laughed, "Dr. Fell over again."

"It may be," returned Adelaide coldly, "but I believe in my own

instinctive dislikes. I felt the same kind of mistrust for that

wretched woman who called herself Madame de Montfort, about whom papa

and mamma and the whole place went mad. And after her death quite

odd-enough stories came out to justify my doubts and condemn her

faithful friends. Every one said she poisoned herself because she knew

that she would be unmasked and she was afraid to face the ordeal. And

her debts, I believe, were frightful; though it served that ridiculous

Mr. Dundas right for marrying such a creature."

"But granting that this woman was an adventuress, as you say, what has

that to do with Miss Dundas?"

"Nothing, of course: I only mentioned her to show you that I have some

accuracy of judgment, and that when I say I dislike Leam Dundas my

opinion ought to be taken as worth consideration."

Adelaide said this quietly, in the well-bred but absolutely positive

manner which she would have when they were married and she differed

from him in opinion. It was the moral arbitrariness of the superior

being, which, amusing now in the maiden, might become wearisome, not

to say oppressive, in the wife.

"Well, I do not know her as you do, of course, but I cannot see why

you should dislike her so much," persisted Edgar.

"Trust me, some day it will be seen why," she answered. "I feel

confident that before long Leam will show herself in her true colors,

and those will be black. I pity the man who will ever be her husband."

Edgar laughed somewhat forcedly, then looked at Leam walking up the

road alone, and thought that her husband would not need much pity

for his state. Her beauty stood with him for moral qualities and

intellectual graces. Given such a face as hers, such a figure, and

all the rest was included. And when he thought of her eyes and the

maddening way in which they looked into his; of the grave little

smile, evanescent, delicate, subtle, the very aroma of a smile, so

different from the coarse hilarity of your commonplace English girls;

of the reticence and pride which gave such value to her smaller

graces; of the enchanting look and accent which had accompanied

her act of self-surrender just now--that acceptance of his word and

renunciation of her own fancy which had put him in the place and given

him the honor of a conqueror,--he accused Adelaide in his heart of

prejudice and jealousy, and despised her for her littleness. In fact,

he was nearer to loving Leam Dundas because of these strictures

than he would have been had the rector's daughter praised her; and

Adelaide, usually so politic, had made a horribly bad move by her

unguarded confession of distrust and dislike.

The whole episode, however, had been lost in its true meaning to all

save one--that one the Mr. Gryce of Lionnet, who already knew what

there was to be known of every family in the place, and who had the

faculty of dovetailing parts into a whole characteristic of the born

detective.

Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 17, No. 099, March, 1876 · 第 1 / 5 章