CHAPTER XI

CANADA IN THE PANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION

The year of 1915 will forever remain illuminated in the history of

Canada and of the United States as that of the celebration of two

momentous events: the completion of the Panama-Pacific Canal, uniting

the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans; and the bridging the entire

continent, from Montreal to Vancouver, from New York to San

Francisco, by human speech. The achievement of the Panama Canal was

at a cost of three hundred and ten millions of dollars; the

achievement of "the voyage of the voice" across the continent, by the

Bell telephone system, cost that company twice the amount of the

expenditure demanded by the canal. During the next decade, the Bell

Company propose to expend an even greater sum in the perfecting of

all the future possibilities that may arise.

The completion of the Panama Canal is one of the signal events in the

world's history. It changes the great currents of commerce; it has

reduced the distance between the central points of the Atlantic and

the Pacific coasts from 13,000 to 5000 miles, and it will greatly

reduce the cost of coaling on voyages from coast to coast. From

Colon, on the Atlantic side of the Isthmus, to Balboa, on the Pacific

side, {228} was formerly, by the water route around Cape Horn, a

distance of 10,500 nautical miles; through the canal the distance is

44 miles. The time required between these two points formerly

approximated to 126 days; now the distance between is but one day.

These elementary statistics reveal to some degree the inestimable

value of the achievement to all the nations of the world.

It was fitting that such an achievement should be celebrated with an

exposition of the arts, the resources, the productions, and the

inventions of the civilised world. It was the vivid drama of

international achievement. There were more than eighty thousand

single exhibits, and groups of related exhibits, representing every

phase of the highest efforts of man in contemporary progress.

Industries and economics, inventions and discoveries, arts and

sciences, education and ethics, met under the striking architectural

beauty and in a scenic setting never before equalled in any land.

Against a background of the blue Pacific lying under a glowing

western sky, with a splendour of decoration hardly paralleled, the

scene was one worthy to be forever perpetuated in the world's

history. It struck the note of a new life. The contrast between

this illustration of the development of the arts of peace--the vision

of the spirit that united East and West in the common cause of all

that ennobles and exalts--and those awful scenes of carnage that were

raging in central Europe on the other side of {229} the globe, was a

contrast that might well employ the genius of Thucydides to depict,

with a pen lighted from the living coal on the altar. Yet, such is

the leading of divinely-guided destiny, each was doing its work in

the regeneration of the world. The seemingly irreparable calamity of

the war was sweeping away old conditions that the new life of

spiritualisation should enter in; it was the preparing the way of the

Lord and making His paths straight. Faith constantly discerned the

triumphant exhortation:

"Lift up your heads, O ye gates; and be ye lift up, ye everlasting

doors; and the King of Glory shall come in!"

More than three hundred congresses met in these palaces under the

shadow of the Tower of Jewels; in the halls of music, of art, or in

the terraced pavilion of the Court of the Universe. All were

welcomed with that royal hospitality that has ever characterised the

generous heart of San Francisco. These congresses dealt for the most

part with the vital topics of the day. They concerned themselves

less with the life of literature and more with the life of nature;

less with the life that takes note of abstract and profound

intellectual problems and more with the practical applications of

ethical truth. The congresses thus discussed open-air life, foods,

clothing, motoring, the political enfranchisement of women, new

theories in education, hygiene, economics, charities. In the

building of Liberal {230} Arts there was one exhibit from the

Observatory on Mount Lowe, labelled by the director of that

institution, as the stuff of which the universe and man were made:

that of electrons and mentoids. The distinctively new note of the

twentieth century was everywhere in evidence. The Exposition planted

its standard in an approaching Future, not in a receding Past. By

this standard alone could it be truly judged. The salons of fine art

did not measurably offer, in any extent, the quality of art displayed

at Chicago in 1893, nor was it comparable with that transcendently

superb collection of paintings and sculpture that concentrated the

inspiration of the centuries in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

Naturally, there were physical barriers of space and the barriers of

war conditions that effectually determined this. It was easy for

Europe and the Orient to send to Paris their most adequate

representation. And France, alone, is so rich in her national

treasures of art, both of the past and of contemporary work, that her

own display alone would have made a profound impression. For San

Francisco, in 1915, conditions effectually debarred her from securing

much of the great art of the world. Very wisely, she did not dash

herself blindly and unavailingly against destiny, but wisely struck

the key of desire from a new centre. The result was in that the

Exposition suggested its own ideals with but slight reference to

traditions.

Singularly fortunate was it, indeed, in its administration. {231}

President Charles C. Moore seemed the man best fitted for the high

and responsible place that he so ably filled. Never was a great

world-exposition conducted with a more remarkable combination of

wisdom, courtesy, admirable judgment, and comprehensive treatment.

Not less fortunate was the great undertaking in its vice-presidents:

William H. Crocker, R. B. Hale, I. W. Hellman, jun., M. H. De Young,

Leon Sloss, and James Bolph, jun., while Dr. Frederick J. V. Skiff,

as Director-in-Chief; George Hough Perry, at the head of the

Publicity Department; and Mr. A. M. Mortesen, as Traffic Manager,

were all felicitously equipped for their special service.

"The Future is our kingdom,"

said George Sterling, the poet of the day, whose poem entitled _The

Builders_ was read by George Arlett, a member of the California State

Commission, at the closing ceremonies.

Mr. Sterling struck the keynote of the splendid enterprise in these

stanzas:

"We do but cross a threshold into day.

Beauty we leave behind

A deeper beauty on our path to find

And higher glories to illume the way.

The door we close behind us is the Past;

Our sons shall find a fairer door at last.

"A world reborn awaits us! Years to come

Shall know its grace and good,

When wars shall end in endless brotherhood

And birds shall build in cannon long since dumb.

Men shall have peace, though then no man may know

Who built this sunset city long ago."

{232}

Only nine years had passed since San Francisco had been practically

destroyed by a sudden and terrible calamity. But the spirit of the

Golden Gate laughs at calamity and with a magician's wand transmutes

it into success. Only two years after this devastation San Francisco

raised millions for the exposition she had planned. No earthquake

could entomb her spirit, nor could it be drowned by any tidal wave

that the Pacific is capable of providing. With that lofty poet,

William Vaughan Moody, who, alas, "died too soon" for the nation

which his lyre entranced, San Francisco might well declare:

"From wounds and sore defeat

I made my battle-stay;

Winged sandals for my feet

I wove of my delay."

The Panama-Pacific Exposition opened on February 15, 1915, and closed

on December 4 of the same year. It was participated in by the

Argentine Republic, Bolivia, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China, Costa

Rica, Cuba, Denmark, Dominican Republic, Equador, France, Guatemala,

Haiti, Holland, Honduras, Italy, Japan, Liberia, Mexico, Nicaragua,

New Zealand, Panama, Persia, Peru, Portugal, Salvador, Spain, Sweden,

Uruguay, and Venezuela.

This enumeration of the countries participating will of itself

suggest the somewhat new class of exhibits, as differing from those

of older countries in former world-displays. The Panama-Pacific was

thus its own precedent. Its claims to the novel and {233} the unique

were extremely well sustained. It was the second exposition held on

the Pacific coast, and it had the longest duration by four months of

any ever held before.

The grounds comprised over 600 acres, with a water-front of two and a

half miles, on San Francisco Bay, just east of the Golden Gate. On

the other three sides they were partly enclosed by hills, thus

forming a natural amphitheatre. There were eleven colossal palaces

with many lesser buildings. These palaces were grouped in a series

of rectangles connected by courts and arcades with an Andalusian

charm. The courts fascinated the eye by their colonnades, arches,

domes, and glittering minarets. They were adorned by mural paintings

of symbolic significance, by fountains, sunken gardens, and

sculptured art, with niches and restful seats. Festival Hall, with

its superb organ, where a concert was held every day, contained an

auditorium seating three thousand people, and there were also ten

smaller halls. The National Government staged its own special

exhibit on a ten-acre space, appropriating two million dollars for

this purpose, and this exhibit included a representation of the

building of the Panama Canal.

In all this imposing world-panorama of twentieth-century exhibits,

Canada led the procession. Whatever the enthralling nature of

spectacles offered by other nations, it was the Dominion that set the

pace. Canada, an entrancing, garlanded figure, {234} aglow with her

abounding enthusiasms; her resistless energy; her dreams of a future

that crystallise themselves in her all-conquering empire

building--Canada the Spellbinder assumed her place as if by divine

right, and certainly by common consent, as the very Winged Victory

flying on into a golden future. The Canadian Building, whose classic

beauty would have done no discredit to the Parthenon had it also

occupied a place on the "Holy Hill" that overlooks all Attica; this

structure, so simple yet so rich in architectural effect, her main

portal guarded by great lions sculptured on either side, was one of

the most impressive creations of the entire Exposition. With a

singular comprehensiveness of grouping, the exhibits in this building

represented the Dominion in her completeness. It was no one province

that engaged the attention to the exclusion of another; it was the

Dominion herself, in the unity of her vast empire, rather than any

merely tributary feature of the country. In the inscrutable magic

that wrought this effect lay the secret of its spellbinding quality.

It was a power that enthralled every visitor who crossed the

threshold, and brought him back to study it again.

How was this result achieved? The question was in the air. Every

one asked it. No one could exactly answer it, but every one shared

the wonder. The statistical data of the Dominion was impressive

enough for almost any commensurate influence; yet mere facts and

figures could give little clue to the {235} mysterious effect on the

throngs of visitors. One might read that the population of Canada

had increased from five millions to seven millions in ten years; and

that fifty-five per cent. of this population was engaged in

conquering Nature, and transmuting her plains into golden harvests as

a granary of the world; that her Government is expending ten millions

a year in agricultural instruction alone; that her root and fodder

crop each year is valued at almost two hundred millions of dollars,

representing an area of nine million acres, and that the value of her

field crops annually is five hundred and fifty millions of dollars.

One might read that her live stock, valued at a given time at seven

hundred millions, increased a hundred and fifty per cent. within one

decade only. This visitor might recall the shrewd assertion of James

J. Hill that "there is land enough in Canada, if thoroughly tilled,

to feed every person in Europe"; and that, while at present only

thirty-six million acres are under cultivation, there are four

hundred and forty millions, thirty per cent. of her entire area, that

are available for agricultural use. Yet not all these impressive

statistics can alone account for the innate magic, the indescribable

witchery, that Canada flings about all who come to look upon these

marvellous panoramas in her building. Statistical data have their

uses and inspire respect, while one cons them by heart and feels sure

he is thereby equipped to give a reason for the faith that is in him;

but in {236} his heart he knows that all the figures in the realm of

mathematics could not really account for his consciousness of the

fascinations of the Dominion. A leading journal of San Francisco,

advocating the desire that the Californian exhibit should be made a

permanent one, proceeded to point the moral and adorn the tale by

pointing to the Canadian exhibition. The editorial argument thus ran:

"Canada, with her complete exhibit, has won much praise from

Exposition sightseers and has set the precedent for a permanent

exhibit. One reason why our northern neighbour was able to make such

a splendid impression at the Jewel City from the first was because,

as its display was permanent, much of it had been installed in a

European exhibition and had come directly here from across the

Atlantic. The packing cases were ready to be opened and the best

arrangement for the resources of Canada had been determined by

experience.

"California needs to be an active participant in future expositions,

as active as the Dominion of Canada.

* * * * * * * * *

"With a permanent exhibit California will be ready at the first sound

of an exposition reveille to rush to the front, full panoplied in

luscious armour of golden butter, armed with 42-cm. cases of

preserved fruits and with glittering shields of virgin gold.

"Then bring on your Canada!"

The skill with which the Canadian exhibit was grouped impressed

itself first as a work of art, and only secondarily as a thing of

commercial value. This skill in presentation was not the least

element in its attractiveness. Here was Dawson, shooting out rays of

violet, vermilion, and orange, myriads of lights in all the colours

of the spectrum. A panoramic {237} view of a wheat belt that would

feed the world; Vancouver, with the great elevator at the water's

edge; and with that, was Vancouver's prophetic dream of 1923, when

three hundred millions of bushels of grain will be sent from Canada

to Europe by the way of the Panama Canal; again there were the homes

of farmers, attractive and realistic; an orchard scene introducing

real fruit, and where realism ended and art began it was difficult to

discover; the trees were laden with fruit; apples lay in heaps under

the shade of the trees; young men and maidens were gathering the rosy

and the golden fruit, tripping over the green turf so naturally that

one half wondered if they as well as the apples were not actual?

Here was a section out of British Columbia showing a sportsman's

happy hunting-ground; there were snow-capped mountains, but with real

water trickling down; an eagle, fierce, tempestuous, with widespread,

flapping wings, is hovering in the air in a manner that would do

credit to Heller, the wizard of necromancy on the stage. From

yawning crevices bears emerge, until the visitor instinctively

shrinks away, and the beaver is seen constructing his dam. Was it

Governor Frontenac who recommended to the King of France that the

beaver should be adopted as Canada's trade mark?

There are mounted duck, grouse, elk, buffalo, and sullen, scowling

carabou gazing at the surging throng. There are buffalo from the

Peace River region, a thousand miles north of the {238} border

between Canada and the States, where these hordes formerly ranged in

countless droves, and which to-day is one of the finest of

wheat-growing regions.

Nothing is more interesting to the curious visitor than are the views

of typical Canadian homes. Some that are shown are but the growth of

twelve years; from the time of the first turning of the plough in the

prairie soil to completion of the two-storied, balconied house, with

its broad piazza, set in the pretty grounds whose shady trees were

planted as seedlings, with gay parterres of flowers in and around the

curving walks and paths. The facilities for thus acquiring a home,

by taking up the usual allotment of a hundred and sixty acres of

land, which can be done on such favourable terms, turned the

attention of many visitors toward the Dominion.

Another exhibit of great interest was that of power plant models, for

every industrial centre in Canada has this abundance of power at very

low rates, owing to the enormous supply of water power in the

country. The canneries, too, form one of the most important

industries, and their extent is well illustrated in the display made

in the Canadian building.

There are cases upon cases of specimens of Canada's precious

minerals: gold from British Columbia, silver ore from Cobalt, gold

from the Yukon, and copper and various other minerals, with

representative specimens of coal deposits. Other glass cases {239}

again display much of the flora of Canada, in a profusion of flowers

whose rich and brilliant colouring attracts attention; and there are

curious grasses and rare plants and foliage.

In one corridor are a group of life-like portraits in oil of King

George and Queen Mary, of several of the Governors-General of the

Dominion, and of many of the Government officials, Sir John A.

Macdonald, Sir Wilfrid Laurier, and Premier Borden. In this

connection it is rather interesting to recall that the appellation of

the term Dominion to the country was due to a member of Parliament

who, after Sir John Macdonald had arranged for the confederation of

the nine provinces, and a name was being discussed, said that he had

that morning read in his Bible the words: "His Dominion shall be from

sea to sea," and the happy augury was seized and the term applied to

the vast and splendid country.

Colonel William Hutchinson's hospitable offices were a favourite

rendezvous for appreciative visitors. Here gathered Canadians and

Canada-lovers to discuss the latest news from the Dominion. So

largely, however, had Colonel Hutchinson's life been passed in the

noted national and international expositions of the world that for

fifteen years he has hardly been more than three months at a time in

his home in Ottawa.

The Grand Trunk building offered, daily, a moving picture exhibition

that attracted many onlookers, and so real were the effects that when

in {240} one a torrent of water came rushing over a cataract, the

visitor near involuntarily turned for a seat farther back. In this

building, as in the national one, the Dominion was laid under tribute

in representation that interpreted the essential life of Canada.

The superb collection of photographs of the scenic mountain route of

the Grand Trunk Pacific was a perennial attraction to visitors in the

exhibit made by this transcontinental railway. It revealed anew how

the completion of the Grand Trunk System is an achievement which in

its daring, its magnitude of interests, and the enterprise involved

was one of the great twentieth-century events, and one only to be

compared with the opening of the Panama-Pacific Canal itself.

[Illustration: Looking towards Mount Munn from the Valley of Flowers]

The Reverend Arthur Barry O'Neill, C.S.G., after visiting the

Exposition, wrote that he considered the Canadian and the Grand Trunk

buildings as instances of "artistic genius beyond all praise," and as

a "lasting honour and credit to the Canadian Government." In a

sonnet in which Mr. O'Neill celebrates the youth of Canada, the brave

lads who have gone to the front, and who

"... have writ a score

Of valour true, surpassing old romance.

And lent new pride to each Canadian's glance,"

the poet adds:

"And here, as well, where contests fair of Peace,

The nations wage along the Golden Gate,

Huge throngs acclaim the Maple Leaf, nor cease

The chorused praise that makes our hearts elate."

{241}

It is not the aim in this chapter to describe the whole of this

interesting and beautiful Exposition, but only the contribution made

by Canada; yet one can hardly refrain from noting the charm of the

Alaskan exhibit with its panoramic presentation of the Muir glacier;

nor that of the Santa Fe Railway in the "Zone," where the very

realistic and wonderful portrayal of the Grand Canyon in Arizona was

one of the great attractions of the entire grounds.

The Palace of Transportation was one of the extremely interesting

features of the Exposition. Here could be studied the latest

scientific methods of the day in many details not familiar to the

general public, as, for instance, the method of handling mails on

fast trains and the delivery at stations while the full speed of the

train is maintained; many types of marine transportation; and still

more of aircraft, the navigation of the air being one of the things

constantly demonstrated to throngs of people who were absorbingly

interested in the possibilities of aerial flight.

The experimental panorama of the Panama Canal itself was an

appropriate feature. At the Exposition in Paris in 1900 the journey

on the Trans-Siberian Railway was produced with extraordinary

realism. The traveller entered a luxurious train, a very real train

comprising drawing-room and dining cars, as well as a library car,

and the passing of the long panorama of the entire scenery of that

noted route gave a very vivid idea of what one {242} would see in the

actual journey. The California Exposition arranged a similar exhibit

of a journey through the Panama Canal. The voyager was invited to

the deck of a steamer, and ingenious illusions illustrated the

sailing from ocean to ocean.

San Francisco was a gala city through the entire summer. Not the

least of the enjoyments were the sails in the splendid local boats,

with glass-enclosed decks, across the Bay to Oakland and to Berkeley,

the latter city the seat of the University of California. There were

excursions for every day in the week for those who wished to vary the

scene, and the Exposition itself constantly presented new attractions

and new features with the great number of congresses, the numerous

lectures, and perpetual fêtes.

The close of the Panama-Pacific Exposition was a scene worthy to live

in historic pageantry. The day was one of June dropped into the

heart of December. The sun was burning against a cloudless sapphire

sky. Within the very radiance of the Tower of Jewels, on one of the

terraces of the Court of the Universe, was erected a stand on which

were assembled the Directors, the Commissioners of Foreign

Governments, the representatives of the Army and Navy of California,

and the representatives of the City of San Francisco. From the

arches of the Rising and the Setting Sun the sculptured figures

looked down. There was orchestral music, and the reading of Mr.

Sterling's poem from which lines have been quoted in preceding pages.

The {243} message of Woodrow Wilson, President of the United States,

was flashed around the world at the moment it was given to the

Exposition. President Wilson well expressed the significance of the

undertaking as one "eloquent of the new spirit which is to unite East

and West and make all the world partners in the common enterprises of

progress and humanity."

The guards marched away; the sailors fired a salute; the Exposition

banner descended. President Moore's pictorial words have

immortalised the scene:

"Night came on, and the world's wonder of lights; the Exposition

lights that would never shine again--a red glow on Kelham's towers,

rose flame in the porches of the Machinery Palace, dim reflections in

the Lagoon of the Palace of Fine Arts and the broad basin in the

Court of the Four Seasons, the splendour of the giant monstrances in

the Court of Abundance, the silver phosphorescence of the Adventurous

Bowman on his column and the Lord of the Isthmian Way on his

rack-o'-bones horse, the tremulous frosty shimmer of the hundred

thousand jewels of the great spire; and over all, the long bands,

like lambent metal, of bronze and crimson and green and blue, from

the forty-eight searchlights on the Yacht Harbour Mole, bands that

barred the heavens so far that they deceived the eye and in the

south-east appeared to converge beyond the hills of the city.

"Not abruptly, but slowly and gently, the lamps {244} grew dark, the

beams of the searchlights faded, and arches and courts and colonnades

and towers and sculptured forms of men and women and angels and great

beasts receded into the friendly night, lighted now by the glimmer of

the winter stars, Orion and Sirius, Aldebaran and the Hyades. And

through the starlight 'Taps' dropped in liquid notes from bugles high

on the Tower of Jewels."

[Illustration: Bulkley Gate (150 feet high), Bulkley River]

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Canada, the Spellbinder · 第 11 / 13 章