LODGINGS. The tenure on which the generality of houses are held, does

not warrant a tenant to let, or a lodger to take apartments by the year.

To do this, the tenant ought himself to be the proprietor of the

premises, or to hold possession by lease for an unexpired term of

several years, which would invest him with the right of a landlord to

give or receive half a year's notice, or proceed as in other cases of

landlord and tenant. Unfurnished lodgings are generally let by the week,

month, or quarter; and if ever they be let by the year, it is a

deviation from a general custom, and attended with inconvenience. If a

lodger should contend that he agreed for a whole year, he must produce

some evidence of the fact; such as a written agreement, or the annual

payment of rent; otherwise he must submit to the general usage of being

denominated a quarterly lodger. In the case of weekly tenants, the rent

must be paid weekly; for if once allowed to go to a quarter, and the

landlord accept it as a quarter's rent, he breaks the agreement; the

inmate then becomes a quarterly lodger, and must receive a quarter's

notice to quit. More care however is still required in letting lodgings

that are ready furnished, as the law does not regard them in the same

light as other tenements. Such apartments are generally let by the week,

on payment of a certain sum, part of which is for the room, and part for

the use of the furniture which is attended with some difficulty.

Properly considered, the payment is not rent, nor are the same remedies

lawful as in unfurnished lodgings. The best way to let furnished

lodgings is to have a written agreement, with a catalogue of all the

goods, and to let the apartments and the furniture for separate sums: in

which case, if the rent be not paid, distress may be made for it, though

not for the furniture. Persons renting furnished apartments frequently

absent themselves, without apprising the housekeeper, and as often leave

the rent in arrear. In such a case, the housekeeper should send for a

constable, after the expiration of the first week, and in his presence

enter the apartment, take out the lodger's property and secure it, until

a request be made for it. If after fourteen days' public notice in the

gazette, the lodger do not come and pay the arrears, the housekeeper may

sell the property for the sum due. When a housekeeper is troubled with a

disagreeable character, the best way to recover possession of the

apartment is to deliver a written notice by a person that can be

witness, stating that if the lodger did not quit that day week, the

landlord would insist on his paying an advance of so much per week; and

if he did not quit after such notice, he would make the same advance

after every following week. In the city of London, payment may be

procured by summoning to the Court of Requests at Guildhall, for any sum

not exceeding five pounds. In other parts of the kingdom there are

similar Courts of Conscience, where payment may be enforced to the

amount of forty shillings.

LOIN OF MUTTON. If roasted, it is better to cut it lengthways as a

saddle; or if for steaks, pies, or broth. If there be more fat on the

loin than is agreeable, take off a part of it before it is dressed; it

will make an excellent suet pudding, or crust for a meat pie, if cut

very fine.

LONDON BREAD. According to the method practised by the London bakers, a

sack of flour is sifted into the kneading trough, to make it lie loose.

Six pounds of salt, and two pounds of alum, are separately dissolved in

hot water; and the whole being cooled to about ninety degrees, is mixed

with two quarts of yeast. When this mixture has been well stirred, it is

strained through a cloth or sieve, and is then poured into a cavity made

in the flour. The whole is now mixed up into a dough, and a small

quantity of flour being sprinkled over it, it is covered up with cloths,

and the lid of the trough is shut down, the better to retain the heat.

The fermentation now goes on, and the mass becomes enlarged in bulk. In

the course of two or three hours, another pailful of warm water is well

mixed with the sponge, and it is again covered up for about four hours.

At the end of this time, it is to be kneaded for more than an hour, with

three pailfuls of warm water. It is now returned to the trough in

pieces, sprinkled with dry flour, and at the end of four hours more, it

is again kneaded for half an hour, and divided into quartern and

half-quartern loaves. The weight of a quartern loaf, before baking,

should be four pounds fifteen ounces; after baking, four pounds six

ounces, avoirdupois. When the dough has received its proper shape for

loaves, it is put into the oven, at a heat that will scorch flour

without burning, where it is baked two hours and a half, or three hours.

LONDON PORTER. A late writer has given considerable information

respecting the brewing of porter. His intention being to exhibit the

advantages derived from domestic brewing, he has annexed the price of

each article of the composition, though it will be seen that the expense

on some of the principal articles has been considerably reduced since

that estimate was given.

L _s._ _d._

One quarter of malt 2 2 0

8lb. of hops 0 12 0

6lb. of treacle 0 2 0

8lb. of liquorice root bruised 0 8 0

8lb. of essentia bina 0 4 8

8lb. of colouring 0 4 8

Capsicum half an ounce 0 0 2

Spanish liquorice two ounces 0 0 2

India berries one ounce 0 0 2

Salt of tartar two drams 0 0 1

Heading a quarter of an ounce 0 0 1

Ginger three ounces 0 0 3

Lime four ounces 0 0 1

Linseed one ounce 0 0 1

Cinnamon bark two drams 0 0 2

---------

3 14 7

Coals 0 3 0

---------

Total expense L 3 17 7

This will produce ninety gallons of good porter, and fifty gallons of

table beer; the cost of the porter at the large breweries being L7

10_s._ and that of the beer L1 7_s._ leaves a profit of L5 to the

brewer.--The 'essentia bina' is composed of eight pounds of moist sugar,

boiled in an iron vessel, for no copper one could withstand the heat

sufficiently, till it becomes of a thick syrupy consistence, perfectly

black, and extremely bitter. The 'colouring' is composed of eight pounds

of moist sugar, boiled till it attains a middle state, between bitter

and sweet. It gives that fine mellow colour usually so much admired in

good porter. These ingredients are added to the first wort, and boiled

with it. The 'heading' is a mixture of half alum, and half copperas,

ground to a fine powder. It is so called, from its giving to porter

that beautiful head or froth, which constitutes one of the peculiar

properties of porter, and which publicans are so anxious to raise to

gratify their customers. The linseed, ginger, limewater, cinnamon, and

several other small articles, are added or withheld according to the

taste or practice of the brewer, which accounts for the different

flavours so observable in London porter. Of the articles here

enumerated, it is sufficient to observe, that however much they may

surprise, however pernicious or disagreeable they may appear, they have

always been deemed necessary in the brewing of porter. They must

invariably be used by those who wish to continue the taste, the flavour

and appearance, to which they have been accustomed.--Omitting however

those ingredients which are deemed pernicious, it will be seen by the

following estimate how much more advantageous it is to provide even a

small quantity of home-brewed porter, where this kind of liquor is

preferred.

Ingredients necessary for brewing five gallons of porter.

_s._ _d._

One peck of malt 2 6

Quarter of a pound of liquorice bruised 0 3

Spanish liquorice 0 6

Essentia 0 2

Colour 0 2

Treacle 0 2

Hops 0 6

Capsicum and ginger 0 1

Coals 0 10

-------

Total expense 4 8

-------

This will produce five gallons

of good porter, which if

bought of the brewer would

cost 8 4

But being brewed at home, for 4 8

-------

Leaves a clear gain of 3 8

This saving is quite enough to pay for time and trouble, besides the

advantage of having a wholesome liquor, free from all poisonous

ingredients. Porter thus brewed will be fit for use in a week, and may

be drunk with pleasure. To do ample justice to the subject however, it

may be proper briefly to notice the specific properties of the various

ingredients which enter into the composition of London porter. It is

evident that some porter is more heady than others, and this arises from

the greater or less quantity of stupefying ingredients intermixed with

it. Malt itself, to produce intoxication, must be used in such large

quantities as would very much diminish the brewer's profit. Of the

wholesomeness of malt there can be no doubt; pale malt especially is

highly nutritive, containing more balsamic qualities than the brown

malt, which being subject to a greater degree of fire in the kiln, is

sometimes so crusted and burnt, that the mealy part loses some of its

best qualities. Amber malt is that which is dried in a middling degree,

between pale and brown, and is now much in use, being the most pleasant,

and free from either extreme. Hops are an aromatic grateful bitter, very

wholesome, and undoubtedly efficacious in giving both flavour and

strength to the beer. Yeast is necessary to give the liquor that portion

of elastic air, of which the boiling deprives it. Without fermentation,

or working, no worts, however rich, can inebriate. Liquorice root is

pleasant, wholesome, and aperient; and opposes the astringent qualities

of some of the other ingredients; it ought therefore to be used, as

should Spanish liquorice, which possesses the same properties. Capsicum

disperses wind, and when properly used, cannot be unwholesome: it leaves

a glow of warmth on the stomach, which is perceptible in drinking some

beers. Ginger has the same effect as capsicum, and it also cleanses and

flavours the beer. But capsicum being cheaper is more used, and by its

tasteless though extremely hot quality, cannot be so readily discovered

in beer as ginger. Treacle partakes of many of the properties of

liquorice; and by promoting the natural secretions, it renders porter

and beer in general very wholesome. Treacle also is a cheaper article

than sugar, and answers the purpose of colour, where the beer is

intended for immediate consumption; but in summer, when a body is

required to withstand the temperature of the air, and the draught is not

quick, sugar alone can give body to porter. Treacle therefore is a

discretionary article. Coriander seed, used principally in ale, is warm

and stomachic; but when used in great quantity, it is pernicious.

Coculus Indicus, the India berry, is poisonous and stupefying, when

taken in any considerable quantity. When ground into fine powder it is

undiscoverable in the liquor, and is but too much used to the prejudice

of the public health. What is called heading, should be made of the salt

of steel; but a mixture of alum and copperas being much cheaper, is more

frequently used. Alum is a great drier, and causes that thirst which

some beer occasions; so that the more you drink of it, the more you

want. Alum likewise gives a taste of age to the beer, and is penetrating

to the palate. Copperas is well known to be poisonous, and may be seen

in the blackness which some beer discovers. Salt is highly useful in all

beers; it gives a pleasing relish, and also fines the liquor.--These

remarks are sufficient to show the propriety of manufacturing at home a

good wholesome article for family use, instead of resorting to a public

house for every pint of beer which nature demands, and which when

procured is both expensive and pernicious. And lest any objection

should be made, as to the difficulty and inconvenience of brewing, a few

additional observations will here be given, in order to facilitate this

very important part of domestic economy. Be careful then to procure malt

and hops of the very best quality, and let the brewing vessels be

closely inspected; the least taint may spoil a whole brewing of beer.

The mash tub should be particularly attended to, and a whisp of clean

hay or straw is to be spread over the bottom of the vessel in the

inside, to prevent the flour of the malt running off with the liquor.

The malt being emptied into the mash tub, and the water brought to boil,

dash the boiling water in the copper with cold water sufficient to stop

the boiling, and leave it just hot enough to scald the finger, always

remembering to draw off the second mash somewhat hotter than the first.

The water being thus brought to a proper temperature by the addition of

cold water, lade it out of the copper over the malt till it becomes

thoroughly wet, stirring it well to prevent the malt from clotting. When

the water is poured on too hot, it sets the malt, and closes the body of

the grain, instead of opening it so as to dissolve in the liquor. Cover

up the mash tub close to compress the steam, and prevent the liquid from

evaporating. Let the wort stand an hour and a half or two hours after

mashing, and then let the liquor run off into a vessel prepared to

receive it. If at first it runs thick and discoloured, draw off a

pailful or two, and pour it back again into the mash tub till it runs

clear. In summer it will be necessary to put a few hops into the vessel

which receives the liquor out of the mash tub, to prevent its turning

sour, which the heat of the weather will sometimes endanger. Let the

second mash run out as before, and let the liquor stand an hour and a

half, but never let the malt be dry: keep lading fresh liquor over it

till the quantity of wort to be obtained is extracted, always allowing

for waste in the boiling. The next consideration is boiling the wort

when obtained. The first copperful must be boiled an hour; and whilst

boiling, add the ingredients specified above, in the second estimate.

The hops are now to be boiled in the wort, but are to be carefully

strained from the first wort, in order to be boiled again in the second.

Eight pounds is the common proportion to a quarter of malt; but in

summer the quantity must be varied from eight to twelve pounds,

according to the heat of the atmosphere. After the wort has boiled an

hour, lade it out of the copper and cool it. In summer it should be

quite cold before it is set to work; in winter it should be kept till a

slight degree of warmth is perceptible by the finger. When properly

cooled set it to work, by adding yeast in proportion to the quantity. If

considerable, and if wanted to work quick, add from one to two gallons.

Porter requires to be brought forward quicker than other malt liquor:

let it work till it comes to a good deep head, then cleanse it by adding

the ginger. The liquor is now fit for tunning: fill the barrels full,

and let the yeast work out, adding fresh liquor to fill them up till

they have done working. Now bung the barrels, but keep a watchful eye

upon them for some time, lest the beer should suddenly ferment again and

burst them, which is no uncommon accident where due care is not taken.

The heat of summer, or a sudden change of weather, will occasion the

same misfortune, if the barrels are not watched, and eased when they

require it, by drawing the peg. The only part which remains to complete

the brewing, is fining the beer. To understand this, it is necessary to

remark, that London porter is composed of three different sorts of malt;

pale, brown, and amber. The reason for using these three sorts, is to

attain a peculiar flavour and colour. Amber is the most wholesome, and

for home brewing it is recommended to use none else. In consequence of

the subtleness of the essentia, which keeps continually swimming in the

beer, porter requires a considerable body of finings; but should any one

choose to brew without the essentia, with amber malt, and with colour

only, the porter will soon refine of itself. The finings however are

composed of isinglass dissolved in stale beer, till the whole becomes of

a thin gluey consistence like size. One pint is the usual proportion to

a barrel, but sometimes two, and even three are found necessary.

Particular care must be taken that the beer in which the isinglass is

dissolved, be perfectly clear, and thoroughly stale.--By attending to

these directions, any person may brew as good, if not better porter,

than they can be supplied with from the public houses. Many notions have

been artfully raised, that porter requires to be brewed in large

quantities, and to be long stored, to render it sound and strong; but

experience will prove the falsehood of these prejudices, which have

their origin with the ignorant, and are cherished by the interested. One

brewing under another will afford ample time for porter to refine for

use, and every person can best judge of the extent of his own

consumption. Porter is not the better for being brewed in large

quantities, except that the same trouble which brews a peck, will brew a

bushel. This mode of practice will be found simple and easy in its

operation, and extremely moderate in point of trouble and expense.

LONDON SYLLABUB. Put a pint and a half of port or white wine into a

bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good deal of sugar. Then milk into it near

two quarts of milk, frothed up. If the wine be rather sharp, it will

require more for this quantity of milk. In Devonshire, clouted cream is

put on the top, with pounded cinnamon and sugar.

LOOKING GLASSES. In order to clean them from the spots of flies and

other stains, rub them over with a fine damp cloth. Then polish with a

soft woollen cloth, and powder blue.

LOVE. As health is materially affected by the passions, it is of some

consequence to observe their separate influence, in order to obviate

some of their ill effects. Love is unquestionably the most powerful, and

is less under the controul of the understanding than any of the rest. It

has a kind of omnipotence ascribed to it, which belongs not to any

other. 'Love is strong as death; many waters cannot quench it, neither

can the floods drown it.' Other passions are necessary for the

preservation of the individual, but this is necessary for the

continuation of the species: it was proper therefore that it should be

deeply rooted in the human breast. There is no trifling with this

passion: when love has risen to a certain height, it admits of no other

cure but the possession of its object, which in this case ought always

if possible to be obtained. The ruinous consequences arising from

disappointment, which happen almost every day, are dreadful to relate;

and no punishment can be too great for those whose wilful conduct

becomes the occasion of such catastrophes. Parents are deeply laden with

guilt, who by this means plunge their children into irretrievable ruin;

and lovers are deserving of no forgiveness, whose treacherous conduct

annihilates the hopes and even the existence of their friends.

M.

MACARONI. The usual way of preparing macaroni is to boil it in milk, or

weak veal broth, flavoured with salt. When tender, put it into a dish

without the liquor. Add to it some bits of butter and grated cheese;

over the top grate more, and add a little more butter. Set the dish into

a Dutch oven a quarter of an hour, but do not let the top become

hard.--Another way. Wash it well, and simmer in half milk and half

broth, of veal or mutton, till it is tender. To a spoonful of this

liquor, put the yolk of an egg beaten in a spoonful of cream; just make

it hot to thicken, but not to boil. Spread it on the macaroni, and then

grate fine old cheese all over, with bits of butter. Brown the whole

with a salamander.--Another. Wash the macaroni, then simmer it in a

little broth, with a little salt and pounded mace. When quite tender,

take it out of the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate a good deal of cheese

over, and cover it with fine grated bread. Warm some butter without

oiling, and pour it from a boat through a small earthen cullender all

over the crumbs; then put the dish into a Dutch oven to roast the

cheese, and brown the bread of a fine colour. The bread should be in

separate crumbs, and look light.

MACARONI PUDDING. Simmer in a pint of milk, an ounce or two of the pipe

sort of macaroni, and a bit of lemon and cinnamon. When quite tender,

put it into a dish with milk, two or three eggs, but only one white. Add

some sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful of peach water, and the same of raisin

wine. Bake with a paste round the edges. A layer of orange marmalade, or

raspberry jam, in a macaroni pudding, is a great improvement. In this

case omit the almond water, or ratifia, which would otherwise be wanted

to give it a flavour.

MACARONI SOUP. Boil a pound of the best macaroni in a quart of good

stock, till it is quite tender. Then take out half, and put it into

another stewpot. Add some more stock to the remainder, and boil it till

all the macaroni will pulp through a fine sieve. Then add together the

two liquors, a pint or more of boiling cream, the macaroni that was

first taken out, and half a pound of grated parmesan cheese. Make it

hot, but do not let it boil. Serve it with the crust of a French roll,

cut into the size of a shilling.

MACAROONS. Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound them with four

spoonfuls of orange water. Whisk the whites of four eggs to a froth, mix

it with the almonds, and a pound of sifted sugar, till reduced to a

paste. Lay a sheet of wafer paper on a tin, and put on the paste in

little cakes, the shape of macaroons.

MACKAREL. Their season is generally May, June, and July; but may

sometimes be had at an earlier period. When green gooseberries are

ready, their appearance may at all times be expected. They are so tender

a fish that they carry and keep worse than any other: choose those that

are firm and bright, and sweet scented. After gutting and cleaning, boil

them gently, and serve with butter and fennel, or gooseberry sauce. To

broil them, split and sprinkle with herbs, pepper and salt; or stuff

with the same, adding crumbs and chopped fennel.

MAGNUM BONUM PLUMS. Though very indifferent when eaten raw, this fruit

makes an excellent sweetmeat, or is fine in the form of tarts. Prick

them with a needle to prevent bursting, simmer them very gently in a

thin syrup, put them in a china bowl, and when cold pour the syrup

over. Let them lie three days, then make a syrup of three pounds of

sugar to five pounds of fruit, with no more water than hangs to large

lumps of the sugar dipped quickly, and instantly brought out. Boil the

plums in this fresh syrup, after draining the first from them. Do them

very gently till they are clear, and the syrup adheres to them. Put them

one by one into small pots, and pour the liquor over. Reserve a little

syrup in the pan for those intended to be dried, warm up the fruit in

it, drain them out, and put them on plates to dry in a cool oven. These

plums are apt to ferment, if not boiled in two syrups; the former will

sweeten pies, but will have too much acid to keep. A part may be

reserved, with the addition of a little sugar, to do those that are dry,

for they will not require to be so sweet as if kept wet, and will eat

very nicely if boiled like the rest. One parcel may be done after

another, and save much sugar, but care must be taken not to break the

fruit.

MAHOGANY. To give a fine colour to mahogany, let the furniture be washed

perfectly clean with vinegar, having first taken out any ink stains

there may be, with spirits of salt, taking the greatest care to touch

the stained part very slightly, and then the spirits must be instantly

washed off. Use the following liquid. Put into a pint of cold-drawn

linseed oil, four pennyworth of alkanet root, and two pennyworth of rose

pink. Let it remain all night in an earthen vessel, then stirring it

well, rub some of it all over the mahogany with a linen rag; and when it

has lain some time, rub it bright with linen cloths. Dining tables

should be covered with mat, oil cloth, or baize, to prevent staining;

and should be instantly rubbed when the dishes are removed, while the

board is still warm.

MAIDS. This kind of fish, as well as skate, requires to be hung up a day

before it is dressed, to prevent its eating tough. Maids may either be

broiled or fried; or if a tolerable size, the middle part may be boiled,

and the fins fried. They should be dipped in egg, and covered with

crumbs.

MALT. This article varies very much in value, according to the quality

of the barley, and the mode of manufacture. When good it is full of

flour, and in biting a grain asunder it will easily separate; the shell

will appear thin, and well filled up with flour. If it bite hard and

steely, the malt is bad. The difference of pale and brown malt arises

merely from the different degrees of heat employed in the drying: the

main object is the quantity of flour. If the barley was light and thin,

whether from unripeness, blight, or any other cause, it will not malt so

well; but instead of sending out its roots in due time, a part of it

will still be barley. This will appear by putting a handful of unground

malt in cold water, and stirring it about till every grain is wetted;

the good will swim, and the unmalted barley sink to the bottom. But if

the barley be well malted, there is still a variety in the quality: for

a bushel of malt from fine, plump, heavy barley, will be better than the

same quantity from thin and light barley. Weight therefore here is the

criterion of quality; and a bushel of malt weighing forty-five pounds is

cheaper than any other at almost any price, supposing it to be free from

unmalted barley, for the barley itself is heavier than the malt. The

practice of mixing barley with the malt on a principle of economy, is

not to be approved; for though it may add a little to the strength of

the wort, it makes the beer flat and insipid, and of course unwholesome.

The Cook and Housekeeper's Complete and Universal Dictionary; Including a System of Modern Cookery, in all Its Various Branches, Adapted to the Use of Private Families · 第 30 / 74 段