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[Illustration: _Mrs. Eaton._
BUNGAY.
_Published by J. & R. Childs._]
_THE_
_Cook and Housekeeper's_
Complete & Universal Dictionary
Including
_A system of Modern Cookery in all its various Branches,_ adapted to the
use of Private Families.
_Also a variety of Original & Valuable Information._
_RELATIVE TO_
_Baking
Brewing
Carving
Cleaning
Collaring
Curing
Economy of Bees
---- of a Dairy
Economy of Poultry
Family Medicine
Gardening
Home-made Wines
Pickling
Potting
Preserving
Rules of Health_
And every other Subject connected with
Domestic Economy.
BY MRS. MARY EATON.
BUNGAY.
_Printed & Published by J. & R. Childs_
1822.
THE
COOK AND HOUSEKEEPER'S
COMPLETE AND UNIVERSAL
DICTIONARY;
INCLUDING
A SYSTEM OF MODERN COOKERY,
IN ALL ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES,
ADAPTED TO THE USE OF
_PRIVATE FAMILIES_:
ALSO A VARIETY OF
ORIGINAL AND VALUABLE INFORMATION.
RELATIVE TO
BAKING,
BREWING,
CARVING,
CLEANING,
COLLARING,
CURING,
ECONOMY OF BEES,
---- OF A DAIRY,
ECONOMY OF POULTRY,
FAMILY MEDICINE,
GARDENING,
HOME-MADE WINES,
PICKLING,
POTTING,
PRESERVING,
RULES OF HEALTH,
AND EVERY OTHER SUBJECT CONNECTED WITH
DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
BY MRS. MARY EATON.
_EMBELLISHED WITH ENGRAVINGS._
BUNGAY:
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. AND R. CHILDS.
1823.
INTRODUCTION.
NOTHING is more obvious, than that experience purchased by the sacrifice
of independence is bought at too dear a rate. Yet this is the only
consolation which remains to many females, while sitting on the ashes of
a ruined fortune, and piercing themselves with the recollection of the
numerous imprudencies into which they have been led, simply for the want
of better information. Not because there is any want of valuable
publications, for in the present age they abound; but rather because
they contain such a variety of superfluous articles, and are too
indiscriminate to become generally useful. A young female, just returned
from the hymeneal altar, is ready to exclaim on the first perusal, as
the philosopher did who visited the metropolis, 'How many things are
here which I do not want!' The volume when purchased is often found to
contain what is only or chiefly adapted to those who live in "king's
houses," or "who fare sumptuously every day."
Indeed, it has been the failing of most works of this nature, that they
have either been too contracted, or too diffuse; detailed what was
unnecessary, or treated superficially what was in fact of most
consequence to the great bulk of mankind. If it be objected to the
present work, that it exhibits nothing new; that the experiments are
founded upon the simplest rules of nature; that most of the things have
been rehearsed in various forms; it is not necessary to deny or to
conceal the fact, every other consideration having been subordinated to
one leading object, and that is GENERAL UTILITY. It is but justice
however to add, that many of the articles are perfectly ORIGINAL, having
been extracted from a variety of unpublished manuscripts, obligingly and
expressly furnished in aid of the present undertaking. A great number of
outlandish articles are intentionally omitted, as well as a farrago of
French trifles and French nonsense, in order to render the work truly
worthy of the patronage of the genuine English housekeeper.
It may also fairly be presumed, that the superior advantages of the
present work will immediately be recognized, not only as comprehending
at once the whole theory of Domestic Management, but in a form never
before attempted, and which of all others is best adapted to facilitate
the acquisition of useful knowledge. The alphabetical arrangement
presented in the following sheets, pointing out at once the article
necessary to be consulted, prevents the drudgery of going through
several pages in order to find it, and supplies by its convenience and
universal adaptation, the desideratum so long needed in this species of
composition.
_Importance of Domestic Habits and Acquirements._
Though domestic occupations do not stand so high in the general esteem
as they formerly did, there are none of greater importance in social
life, and none when neglected that produce a larger portion of human
misery. There was a time when ladies knew nothing beyond their own
family concerns; but in the present day there are many who know nothing
about them. If a young person has been sent to a fashionable
boarding-school, it is ten to one, when she returns home, whether she
can mend her own stockings, or boil a piece of meat, or do any thing
more than preside over the flippant ceremonies of the tea-table. Each
extreme ought to be avoided, and care taken to unite in the female
character, the cultivation of talents and habits of usefulness. In every
department those are entitled to the greatest praise, who best acquit
themselves of the duties which their station requires, and this it is
that gives true dignity to character. Happily indeed there are still
great numbers in every situation, whose example combines in a high
degree the ornamental with the useful. Instances may be found of ladies
in the higher walks of life, who condescend to examine the accounts of
their servants and housekeepers; and by overseeing and wisely directing
the expenditure of that part of their husband's income which falls under
their own inspection, avoid the inconveniences of embarrassed
circumstances. How much more necessary then is domestic knowledge in
those whose limited fortunes press on their attention considerations of
the strictest economy. There ought to be a material difference in the
degree of care which a person of a large and independent estate bestows
on money concerns, and that of one in inferior circumstances: yet both
may very commendably employ some portion of their time and thoughts on
this subject. The custom of the times tends in some measure to abolish
the distinctions in rank, the education given to young people being
nearly the same in all. But though the leisure of the higher sort may
very well be devoted to different accomplishments, the pursuits of those
in a middle sphere, if less ornamental, would better secure their own
happiness, and that of others connected with them. We sometimes bring up
children in a manner calculated rather to fit them for the station we
wish, than that which it is likely they will actually possess; and it is
in all cases worth the while of parents to consider whether the
expectation or hope of raising their offspring above their own situation
be well founded. There is no opportunity of attaining a knowledge of
family management at school, certainly; and during vacations, all
subjects that might interfere with amusement are avoided. The
consequence is, when a girl in the higher ranks returns home after
completing her education, her introduction to the gay world, and a
continued course of pleasures, persuade her at once that she was born to
be the ornament of fashionable circles, rather than descend to the
management of family concerns, though by that means she might in various
ways increase the comfort and satisfaction of her parents. On the other
hand, persons of an inferior sphere, and especially in the lower order
of middling life, are almost always anxious to give their children such
advantages of education as they themselves did not possess. Whether
their indulgence be productive of the happiness so kindly aimed at, must
be judged by the effects, which are not very favourable if what has been
taught has not produced humility in herself, and increased gratitude and
respect to her parents. Were a young woman brought to relish home
society, and the calm delights of an easy and agreeable occupation,
before she entered into the delusive scenes of pleasure, presented by
the theatre and other dissipations, it is probable she would soon make a
comparison much in favour of the former, especially if restraint did
not give to the latter an additional relish.
If our observations were extended to the marriage state, we should find
a life of employment to be the source of unnumbered pleasures. To attend
to the nursing, and at least the early instruction of children, and rear
a healthy progeny in the ways of piety and usefulness; to preside over
the family, and regulate the income allotted to its maintenance; to make
home the agreeable retreat of a husband, fatigued by intercourse with a
bustling world; to be his enlightened companion, and the chosen friend
of his heart; these, these are woman's duties, and her highest honour.
And when it is thus evident that high intellectual attainments may find
room for their exercise in the multifarious occupations of the daughter,
the wife, the mother, the mistress of the house; no one can reasonably
urge that the female mind is contracted by domestic employ. It is
however a great comfort that the duties of life are within the reach of
humbler abilities, and that she whose chief aim it is to fulfil them,
will very rarely fail to acquit herself well.
_Domestic Expenditure._
The mistress of a family should always remember, that the welfare and
good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior; and
consequently that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste
may be avoided. If a lady has never been accustomed while single to
think of family management, let her not on that account fear that she
cannot attain it. She may consult others who are experienced, and
acquaint herself with the necessary quantities of the several articles
of family expenditure, in proportion to the number it consists of,
together with the value of the articles it may be necessary to procure.
A minute account of the annual income, and the times of payment, should
be taken in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each
item of expense. Those who are early accustomed to calculations of this
kind, will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their establishment
demands, as will suggest the happy medium between prodigality and
parsimony, without in the least subjecting themselves to the charge of
meanness.
Few branches of female education are so useful as great readiness at
figures, though nothing is more commonly neglected. Accounts should be
regularly kept, and not the smallest item be omitted to be entered. If
balanced every week, or month at longest, the income and outgoings will
easily be ascertained, and their proportions to each other be duly
observed. Some people fix on stated sums to be appropriated to each
different article, and keep the money separate for that purpose; as
house, clothes, pocket, education of children, &c. Whichever way
accounts be entered, a certain mode should be adopted, and strictly
adhered to. Many women are unfortunately ignorant of the state of their
husband's income; and others are only made acquainted with it when some
speculative project, or profitable transaction, leads them to make a
false estimate of what can be afforded. It too often happens also that
both parties, far from consulting each other, squander money in ways
that they would even wish to forget: whereas marriage should be a state
of mutual and perfect confidence, with a similarity of pursuits, which
would secure that happiness it was intended to bestow.
There are so many valuable women who excel as wives, that it is fair to
infer there would be few extravagant ones, if they were consulted by
their husbands on subjects that concern the mutual interest of both
parties. Many families have been reduced to poverty by the want of
openness in the man, on the subject of his affairs; and though on these
occasions the women are generally blamed, it has afterwards appeared
that they never were allowed to make particular enquiries, nor suffered
to reason upon what sometimes appeared to them imprudent. Many families
have fully as much been indebted to the propriety of female management,
for the degree of prosperity they have enjoyed, as to the knowledge and
activity of the husband and the father.
Ready money should be paid for all such things as come not into weekly
bills, and even for them some sort of check is necessary. The best
places for purchasing goods should also be attended to. On some articles
a discount of five per cent is allowed in London and other large cities,
and those who thus pay are usually best served. Under an idea of buying
cheap, many go to new shops; but it is safest to deal with people of
established credit, who do not dispose of goods by underselling. To make
tradesmen wait for their money is very injurious, besides that a higher
price must be paid: and in long bills, articles never bought are often
charged. If goods are purchased at ready-money price, and regularly
entered, the exact state of the expenditure will be known with ease; for
it is delay of payment that occasions so much confusion. A common-place
book should always be at hand, in which to enter such hints of useful
knowledge, and other observations, as are given by sensible experienced
people. Want of attention to what is advised, or supposing things to be
too minute to be worth regarding, are the causes why so much ignorance
prevails on necessary subjects, among those who are not backward in
frivolous ones.
It is very necessary for the mistress of a family to be informed of the
price and quality of all articles in common use, and of the best times
and places for purchasing them. She should also be acquainted with the
comparative prices of provisions, in order that she may be able to
substitute those that are most reasonable, when they will answer as
well, for others of the same kind, but which are more costly. A false
notion of economy leads many to purchase as bargains, what is not
wanted, and sometimes never is used. Were this error avoided, more money
would remain of course for other purposes. It is not unusual among lower
dealers to put off a larger quantity of goods, by assurances that they
are advancing in price; and many who supply fancy articles are so
successful in persuasion, that purchasers not unfrequently go beyond
their original intention, and suffer inconvenience by it. Some things
are certainly better for keeping, and should be laid in accordingly; but
this applies only to articles in constant consumption. Unvarying rules
cannot be given, for people ought to form their conduct on their
circumstances. Some ladies charge their account with giving out to a
superintending servant such quantities of household articles, as by
observation and calculation they know to be sufficient, reserving for
their own key the large stock of things usually laid in for extensive
families in the country. Should there be more visitors than usual, they
can easily account for an increased consumption, and vice versa. Such a
degree of judgment will be respectable even in the eye of domestics, if
not interested in the ignorance of their employers; and if they are,
their services will not compensate the want of honesty.
A bill of parcels and receipt should be required, even if the money be
paid at the time of purchase; and to avoid mistakes, let the goods be
compared with these when brought home. Though it is very disagreeable to
suspect any one's honesty, and perhaps mistakes are often unintentional;
yet it is proper to weigh meat and grocery articles when brought in, and
compare them with the charge. The butcher should be ordered to send the
weight with the meat, and the checks regularly filed and examined. A
ticket should be exchanged for every loaf of bread, which when returned
will shew the number to be paid for, as tallies may be altered, unless
one is kept by each party. Those who are served with brewer's beer, or
any other articles not paid for weekly or on delivery, should keep a
book for entering the dates: which will not only serve to prevent
overcharges, but will show the whole year's consumption at one view.
`Poole's complete Housekeeper's Account book,' is very well adapted to
this purpose.
An inventory of furniture, linen, and china, should be kept, and the
things examined by it twice a year, or oftener if there be a change of
servants; into each of whose care the articles are to be entrusted, with
a list, the same as is done with plate. Tickets of parchment with the
family name, numbered, and specifying what bed it belongs to, should be
sewed on each feather bed, bolster, pillow, and blanket. Knives, forks,
and house cloths are often deficient: these accidents might be obviated,
if an article at the head of every list required the former to be
produced whole or broken, and the marked part of the linen, though all
the others should be worn out. Glass is another article that requires
care, though a tolerable price is given for broken flint-glass. Trifle
dishes, butter stands, &c. may be had at a lower price than cut glass,
made in moulds, of which there is a great variety that look extremely
well, if not placed near the more beautiful articles.
_Choice and Treatment of Servants._
The regularity and good management of a family will very much depend on
the character of the servants who are employed in it, and frequently one
of base and dishonest principles will corrupt and ruin all the rest. No
orders, however wise or prudent, will be duly carried into effect,
unless those who are to execute them are to be depended on. It behoves
every mistress therefore to be extremely careful whom she takes into her
service; to be very minute in investigating character, and equally
cautious and scrupulously just in giving recommendations of others. Were
this attended to, many bad people would be incapacitated for doing
mischief, by abusing the trust reposed in them. It may fairly be
asserted that the robbery, or waste, which is only a milder term for the
unfaithfulness of a servant, will be laid to the charge of that master
or mistress, who knowing or having well-founded suspicions of such
faults, is prevailed upon by false pity, or entreaty, to slide such
servant into another place. There are however some who are unfortunately
capricious, and often refuse to give a character because they are
displeased with the servant leaving; but this is an unpardonable
violation of the right of a servant, who having no inheritance, is
dependant on her fair name for employment. To refuse countenance to the
evil, and to encourage the good servant, are equally due to society at
large; and such as are honest, frugal, and attentive to their duties,
should be liberally rewarded, which would encourage merit, and stimulate
servants to acquit themselves with propriety. The contrary conduct is
often visited with a kind of retributive justice in the course of a few
years. The extravagant and idle in servitude are ill prepared for the
industry and sobriety on which their own future welfare so essentially
depends. Their faults, and the attendant punishment come home, when they
have children of their own; and sometimes much sooner. They will see
their own folly and wickedness perpetuated in their offspring, whom they
must not expect to be better than the example and instruction given by
themselves. Those who have been faithful and industrious in service,
will generally retain those habits in their own families, after they are
married; while those who have borne an opposite character are seldom
successful in the world, but more frequently reduced to beggary and
want.
It is in general a good maxim, to select servants not younger than
thirty. Before that age, however comfortable you may endeavour to make
them, their want of experience, and the hope of something still better,
prevent their being satisfied with their present state. After they have
had the benefit of experience, if they are tolerably comfortable, they
will endeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind master or
mistress, for fear they may change for the worse. Life may indeed be
very fairly divided into the seasons of hope and fear. In youth, we hope
every thing may be right: in age, we fear that every thing may be wrong.
At any rate it is desirable to engage a good and capable servant, for
one of this description eats no more than a bad one. Considering also
how much waste is occasioned by provisions being dressed in a slovenly
and unskilful manner, and how much a good cook, to whom the conduct of
the kitchen is confided, can save by careful management, it is clearly
expedient to give better wages for one of this description, than to
obtain a cheaper article which in the end will inevitably become more
expensive. It is likewise a point of prudence to invite the honesty and
industry of domestics, by setting them an example of liberality in this
way; nothing is more likely to convince them of the value that is
attached to talent and good behaviour, or to bind them to the interest
of those whom they are engaged to serve. The office of the cook
especially is attended with so many difficulties, so many disgusting and
disagreeable circumstances, and even dangers, in order to procure us one
of the greatest enjoyments of human life, that it is but justice to
reward her attention and services, by rendering her situation every way
as comfortable as we can. Those who think, that to protect and encourage
virtue is the best preventive to vice, should give their female servants
liberal wages. How else can they provide themselves the necessary
articles of clothing, and save a little to help themselves in a time of
a sickness, when out of place, or amidst the infirmities of age. The
want of liberality and of justice in this respect is a principal source
of the distress and of the degradation to which multitudes of females
are reduced, and who are driven at length to seek an asylum in Foundling
Hospitals and Female Penitentiaries.
Good wages however are not all that a faithful servant requires; kind
treatment is of far greater consequence. Human nature is the same in all
stations. If you can convince your servants that you have a generous and
considerate regard for their health and comfort, there is no reason to
imagine that they will be insensible to the good they receive. Be
careful therefore to impose no commands but what are reasonable, nor
reprove but with justice and temper; the best way to ensure which is,
not to lecture them till at least one day after the offence has been
committed. If they have any particular hardship to endure in service,
let them see that you are concerned for the necessity of imposing it.
Servants are more likely to be praised into good conduct, than scolded
out of bad behaviour. Always commend them when they do right; and to
cherish in them the desire of pleasing, it is proper to show them that
you are pleased. By such conduct ordinary servants will often be
converted into good ones, and there are few so hardened as not to feel
gratified when they are kindly and liberally treated. At the same time
avoid all approaches to familiarity, which to a proverb is accompanied
with contempt, and soon destroys the principle of obedience.
When servants are sick, you are to remember that you are their patron,
as well as their master or mistress; not only remit their labour, but
give them all the assistance of food and physic, and every comfort in
your power. Tender assiduity about an invalid is half a cure; it is a
balsam to the mind, which has the most powerful effect on the body; it
soothes the sharpest pains, and strengthens beyond the richest cordial.
The practice of some persons in sending home poor servants to a
miserable cottage, or to a workhouse, in time of illness, hoping for
their services if they should happen to recover, while they contribute
nothing towards it, is contrary to every principle of justice and
humanity. Particular attention ought to be paid to the health of the
cook, not only for her own sake, but also because healthiness and
cleanliness are essential to the duties of her office, and to the
wholesomeness of the dishes prepared by her hand. Besides the
deleterious vapours of the charcoal, which soon undermine the health of
the heartiest person, the cook has to endure the glare of a scorching
fire, and the smoke, so baneful to the complexion and the eyes; so that
she is continually surrounded with inevitable dangers, while her most
commendable achievements pass not only without reward, but frequently
without even thanks. The most consummate cook is seldom noticed by the
master, or heard of by the guests, who, while they eagerly devour his
dainties, and drink his wine, care very little who dressed the one or
sent the other. The same observations apply to the kitchen maid or
second cook, who have in large families the hardest place, and are
worse paid, verifying the old proverb, 'the more work the less wages.'
If there be any thing right, the cook has the praise, when any praise is
given: if any thing be wrong, the kitchen maid has the blame. For this
humble domestic is expected by the cook to take the entire management of
all roasts and boils, fish and vegetables, which together constitute the
principal part of an Englishman's dinner. The master or mistress who
wishes to enjoy the rare luxury of a table well served in the best
stile, should treat the cook as a friend; should watch over her health
with peculiar care, and be sure that her taste does not suffer, by her
stomach being deranged by bilious attacks. A small proportion of that
attention usually bestowed on a favourite horse, or even a dog, would
suffice to regulate her animal system. Cleanliness, and a proper
ventilation to carry off smoke and steam, should be particularly
attended to in the construction of a kitchen. The grand scene of action,
the fire-place, should be placed where it may receive plenty of light.
Too often the contrary practice has prevailed, and the poor cook is
continually basted with her own perspiration; but a good state of health
can never be preserved under such circumstances.
_Necessity of Order and Regularity._
No family can be properly managed, where the strictest order and
regularity is not observed. 'A house divided against itself cannot
stand;' and if the direction of its affairs be left to accident or
chance, it will be equally fatal to its comfort and prosperity. It is
the part of a prudent manager to see all that is doing, and to foresee
and direct all that should be done. The weakest capacity can perceive
what is wrong after it has occurred; but discernment and discretion are
necessary to anticipate and prevent confusion and disorder, by a
well-regulated system of prompt and vigorous management. If time be
wisely economised, and the useful affairs transacted before amusements
are allowed, and a regular plan of employment be daily laid down, a
great deal may be done without hurry or fatigue. The retrospect would
also be most pleasant at the end of the year, to be able to enumerate
all the valuable acquirements made, and the just and benevolent actions
performed, under the active and energetic management of the mistress of
a family. As highly conducive to this end, early and regular hours
should be kept in the evening, and an early hour especially for
breakfast in the morning. There will then be more time to execute the
orders that may be given, which in general should comprise the business
of the day; and servants, by doing their work with ease, will be more
equal to it, and fewer of them will be necessary. It is worthy of
notice, that the general expense will be reduced, and much time saved,
if every thing be kept in its proper place, applied to its proper use,
and mended, when the nature of the accident will allow, as soon as
broken or out of repair. A proper quantity of household articles should
always be ready, and more bought in before the others are consumed, to
prevent inconvenience, especially in the country. Much trouble and
irregularity would be prevented when there is company to dinner, if the
servants were required to prepare the table and sideboard in similar
order daily. As some preparation is necessary for accidental visitors,
care should be taken to have constantly in readiness a few articles
suited to such occasions, which if properly managed will be attended
with little expense, and much convenience.
_Bad habit of keeping Spare Rooms._
Though persons of large fortune may support an expensive establishment
without inconvenience, it ill becomes those in the middle rank to
imitate such an example. Nothing can be more ludicrous than the contrast
exhibited between two families of this description; the one living in
the dignified splendour, and with the liberal hospitality, that wealth
can command; the other in a stile of tinsel show, without the real
appropriate distinctions belonging to rank and fortune. They are lavish,
but not liberal, often sacrificing independence to support dissipation,
and betraying the dearest interests of society for the sake of personal
vanity, and gratifying what is significantly termed 'the pride of life.'
The great point for comfort and respectability is, that all the
household economy should be uniform, not displaying a parade of show in
one thing, and a total want of comfort in another. Besides the
contemptible appearance that this must have to every person of good
sense, it is often productive of fatal consequences. How common it is,
in large towns especially, that for the vanity of having a showy
drawing-room to receive company, the family are confined to a close back
room, where they have scarcely air or light, the want of which is
essentially injurious to health. To keep rooms for show belongs to the
higher classes, where the house is sufficiently commodious for the
family, and to admit of this also: but in private dwellings, to shut up
perhaps the only room that is fit to live in, is to be guilty of a kind
of self-destruction; and yet how frequently this consideration escapes
persons who are disposed to render their family every comfort, but they
have a grate, a carpet, and chairs too fine for every day's use. What a
reflection, when nursing a sick child, to think that it may be the
victim of a bright grate, and a fine carpet! Or, what is equally
afflicting, to see all the children perhaps rickety and diseased from
the same cause! Keeping a spare bed for ornament, rather than for use,
is often attended with similar consequences. A stranger or a friend is
allowed to occupy it once in so many months, and he does it at the peril
of his health, and even of his life.
Another bad effect of keeping spare rooms is the seeing more company,
and in a more expensive manner, than is compatible with the general
convenience of the family, introducing with it an expense in dress, and
a dissipation of time, from which it suffers in various ways. Not the
least of these is the neglect of parental instruction, which it is
attempted to supply by sending the children at an improper age to
school; the girls where they had better never go, and the boys where
they get but little good, and perhaps are all the worse for mending.
Social intercourse is not improved by parade, but quite the contrary;
real friends, and the pleasantest kind of acquaintance, those who like
to be social, are repulsed by it. The failure therefore is general,
involving the loss of nearly all that is valuable in society, by an
abortive attempt to become fashionable.
_Setting out a Table._
The direction of a Table is no inconsiderable part of a lady's concern,
as it involves judgment in expenditure, respectability of appearance,
the comfort of her husband, and those who partake of their hospitality.
It is true that the mode of covering a table, and providing for the
guests, is merely a matter of taste, materially different in a variety
of instances; yet nothing can be more ruinous of real comfort than the
too common custom of making a profusion and a parade, unsuited not only
to the circumstances of the host, but to the number of the guests; or
more fatal to true hospitality than the multiplicity of dishes which
luxury has made fashionable at the tables of the great, the wealthy, and
the ostentatious, who are often neither great, nor wealthy, nor wise.
Such excessive preparation, instead of being a compliment to the party
invited, is nothing better than an indirect offence, conveying a tacit
insinuation that it is absolutely necessary to provide such delicacies
to bribe the depravity of their palates, when we desire the pleasure of
their company, and that society must be purchased on dishonourable terms
before it can be enjoyed. When twice as much cooking is undertaken as
there are servants, or conveniences in the kitchen to do it properly,
dishes must be dressed long before the dinner hour, and stand by
spoiling; and why prepare for eight or ten more than is sufficient for
twenty or thirty visitors? 'Enough is as good as a feast;' and a prudent
provider, avoiding what is extravagant and superfluous, may entertain
her friends three times as often, and ten times as well.
Perhaps there are few incidents in which the respectability of a man is
more immediately felt, than the style of dinner to which he may
accidentally bring home a visitor. And here, it is not the multiplicity
of articles, but the choice, the dressing, and the neat appearance of
the whole that is principally regarded. Every one is to live as he can
afford, and the meal of the tradesman ought not to emulate the
entertainments of the higher classes; but if two or three dishes are
well served, with the usual sauces, the table linen clean, the small
sideboard neatly laid, and all that is necessary be at hand, the
expectation of the husband and the friend will be gratified, because no
irregularity of domestic arrangement will disturb the social
intercourse. The same observation holds good on a larger scale. In all
situations of life the entertainment should be no less suited to the
station than to the fortune of the entertainer, and to the number and
rank of those invited.
The manner of Carving is not only a very necessary branch of
information, to enable a lady to do the honours of the table, but makes
a considerable difference in the consumption of a family; and though in
large parties she is so much assisted as to render this knowledge
apparently of less consequence, yet she must at times feel the
deficiency; and should not fail to acquaint herself with an attainment,
the advantage of which is evident every day. Some people haggle meat so
much, as not to be able to help half a dozen persons decently from a
large tongue, or a sirloin of beef; and the dish goes away with the
appearance of having been gnawed by dogs. Habit alone can make good
carvers; but some useful directions on this subject will be found in the
following pages, under the article Carving.
Half the trouble of waiting at table may be saved, by giving each guest
two plates, two knives and forks, two pieces of bread, a spoon, a wine
glass, and a tumbler; and by placing the wines and sauces in the centre
of the table, one visitor may help another. If the party is large, the
founders of the feast should sit about the middle of the table, instead
of at each end. They will then enjoy the pleasure of attending equally
to all their friends; and being in some degree relieved from the
occupation of carving, will have an opportunity of administering all
those little attentions which contribute so much to the comfort of their
guests. Dinner tables are seldom sufficiently lighted, or attended; an
active waiter will have enough to do to attend upon half a dozen
persons. There should be half as many candles as there are guests, and
their flame should not be more than eighteen inches above the table. The
modern candelabras answer no other purpose than that of giving an
appearance of pomp and magnificence, and seem intended to illuminate the
ceiling, rather than to shed light upon the plates.
_Quality of Provisions to be regarded._
The leading consideration about food ought always to be its
wholesomeness. Cookery may produce savoury and elegant looking dishes,
without their possessing any of the real qualities of food. It is at the
same time both a serious and a ludicrous reflection, that it should be
thought to do honour to our friends and to ourselves to set out a table
where indigestion with all its train of evils, such as fever,
rheumatism, gout, and the whole catalogue of human diseases, lie lurking
in almost every dish. Yet this is both done, and taken as a compliment.
The practice of flavouring custards, for example, with laurel leaves,
and adding fruit kernels to the poison of spirituous liquors, though far
too common, is attended with imminent danger: for let it be remembered,
that the flavour given by laurel essence is the most fatal kind of
poison. Children, and delicate grown-up persons, have often died
suddenly from this cause, even where the quantity of the deleterious
mixture was but small.
How infinitely preferable is a dinner of far less show, where nobody
need to be afraid of what they are eating; and such a one will always be
genteel and respectable. If a person can give his friend only a leg of
mutton, there is nothing of which to be ashamed, provided it is good and
well dressed. Nothing can be of greater importance to the mistress of a
family, than the preservation of its health; but there is no way of
securing this desirable object with any degree of certainty, except her
eye watches over every part of the culinary process. The subject of
cookery is too generally neglected by mistresses, as something beneath
their notice; or if engaged in, it is to contrive a variety of
mischievous compositions, both savoury and sweet, to recommend their own
ingenuity. Yet it is quite evident that every good housewife ought to be
well acquainted with this important branch of domestic management, and
to take upon herself at least its entire direction and controul. This is
a duty which her husband, children, and domestics, have a right to
expect at her hands; and which a solicitude for their health and comfort
will induce her to discharge with fidelity. If cookery has been worth
studying as a sensual gratification, it is much more so as the means of
securing the greatest of human blessings.
A house fitted up with clean good furniture, the kitchen provided with
clean wholesome-looking cooking utensils, good fires, in grates that
give no anxiety lest a good fire should spoil them, clean good
table-linen, the furniture of the table and sideboard good of the kind
without ostentation, and a well-dressed plain dinner, bespeak a sound
judgment and correct taste in a private family, that place it on a
footing of respectability with the first characters in the country. It
is only conforming to our sphere, not vainly attempting to be above it,
that can command true respect.
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_Explanation of the Plate._
VENISON.
1. Haunch. |2. Neck. |3. Shoulder. |4. Breast.
BEEF.
| 7. Thick Flank. |13. Shoulder or Leg
_Hind Quarter._ | 8. Thin Flank. | of Mutton Piece.
1. Sirloin. | 9. Leg. |14. Brisket
2. Rump. |10. Fore Rib; five Ribs. |15. Clod.
3. Edge Bone. | |16. Neck or Sticking
4. Buttock. | _Fore Quarter._ | Piece.
5. Mouse Buttock.|11. Middle Rib; four Ribs.|17. Shin.
6. Veiny Piece. |12. Chuck; three Ribs. |18. Cheek.
VEAL.
1. Loin, best End. | 6. Neck, best End.
2. Loin, Chump End. | 7. Neck, Scrag End.
3. Fillet. | 8. Blade Bone.
4. Hind Knuckle. | 9. Breast, best End.
5. Fore Knuckle. |10. Breast, Brisket End.
PORK.
1. Sparerib. |4. Fore Loin.
2. Hand. |5. Hind Loin.
3. Belly or Spring. |6. Leg.
MUTTON.
1. Leg. |4. Neck, best End. |7. Breast.
2. Loin, best End. |5. Neck, Scrag End. |A Chine is two Loins.
3. Loin, Chump End. |6. Shoulder. |A Saddle is two Necks.
[Illustration]
THE
COOK AND HOUSEKEEPER'S
COMPLETE AND UNIVERSAL
DICTIONARY.
ACID, lemon: a good substitute for this expensive article, suitable for
soups, fish sauces, and many other purposes, may be made of a dram of
lump sugar pounded, and six drops of lemon essence, to three ounces of
crystal vinegar. The flavour of the lemon may also be communicated to
the vinegar, by an infusion of lemon peel.
ACIDS, to remove stains caused by acids. See STAINS.
ACCIDENTS BY FIRE. Much mischief frequently arises from the want of a
little presence of mind on such occasions, when it is well known that a
small quantity of water speedily and properly applied, would obviate
great danger. The moment an alarm of fire is given in a house, some
blankets should be wetted in a tub of water, and spread on the floor of
the room where the fire is, and the flames beaten out with a wet
blanket. Two or three pails of water thus applied, will be more
effectual than a larger quantity poured on in the usual way, and at a
later period. If a chimney be on fire, the readiest way is to cover the
whole front of the fire-place with a wet blanket, or thrust it into the
throat of the chimney, or make a complete inclosure with the
chimney-board. By whatever means the current of air can be stopped
below, the burning soot will be put out as rapidly as a candle is by an
extinguisher, and upon the same principle. A quantity of salt thrown
into water will increase its power in quenching the flames, and muddy
water is better for this purpose than clear water. Children, and
especially females, should be informed, that as flame tends upward, it
is extremely improper for them to stand upright, in case their clothes
take fire; and as the accident generally begins with the lower part of
the dress, the flames meeting additional fuel as they rise, become more
fatal, and the upper part of the body necessarily sustains the greatest
injury. If there be no assistance at hand in a case of this kind, the
sufferer should instantly throw herself down, and roll or lie upon her
clothes. A carpet, hearth rug, or green baize table cloth, quickly
wrapped round the head and body, will be an effectual preservative; but
where these are not at hand, the other method may easily be adopted. The
most obvious means of preventing the female dress from catching fire, is
that of wire fenders of sufficient height to hinder the coals and sparks
from flying into the room; and nurseries in particular should never be
without them. Destructive fires often happen from the thoughtlessness of
persons leaving a poker in the grate, which afterward falls out and
rolls on the floor or carpet. This evil may in a great measure be
prevented by having a small cross of iron welded on the poker,
immediately above the square part, about an inch and a half each way.
Then if the poker slip out of the fire, it will probably catch at the
edge of the fender; or if not, it cannot endanger the floor, as the hot
end of the poker will be kept from it by resting on the cross. In cases
of extreme danger, where the fire is raging in the lower part of the
house, a Fire Escape is of great importance. But where this article is
too expensive, or happens not to be provided, a strong rope should be
fastened to something in an upper apartment, having knots or resting
places for the hands and feet, that in case of alarm it may be thrown
out of the window; or if children and infirm persons were secured by a
noose at the end of it, they might be lowered down in safety. No family
occupying lofty houses in confined situations ought to be without some
contrivance of this sort, and which may be provided at a very trifling
expense. Horses are often so intimidated by fire, that they have
perished before they could be removed from the spot; but if a bridle or
a halter be put upon them, they might be led out of the stable as easily
as on common occasions. Or if the harness be thrown over a draught
horse, or the saddle placed on the back of a saddle horse, the same
object may be accomplished.
ADULTERATIONS in baker's bread may be detected, by mixing it with lemon
juice or strong vinegar: if the bread contains chalk, whiting, or any
other alkali, it will immediately produce a fermentation. If ashes,
alum, bones, or jalap be suspected, slice the crumb of a loaf very thin,
set it over the fire with water, and let it boil gently a long time.
Take it off, pour the water into a vessel, and let it stand till nearly
cold; then pour it gently out, and in the sediment will be seen the
ingredients which have been mixed. The alum will be dissolved in the
water, and may be extracted from it. If jalap has been used, it will
form a thick film on the top, and the heavy ingredients will sink to the
bottom. See BEER, FLOUR, SPIRITS, WINE.
AGUE. Persons afflicted with the ague ought in the first instance to
take an emetic, and a little opening medicine. During the shaking fits,
drink plenty of warm gruel, and afterwards take some powder of bark
steeped in red wine. Or mix thirty grains of snake root, forty of
wormwood, and half an ounce of jesuit's bark powdered, in half a pint of
port wine: put the whole into a bottle, and shake it well together. Take
one fourth part first in the morning, and another at bed time, when the
fit is over, and let the dose be often repeated, to prevent a return of
the complaint. If this should not succeed, mix a quarter of an ounce
each of finely powdered Peruvian bark, grains of paradise, and long
pepper, in a quarter of a pound of treacle. Take a third part of it as
soon as the cold fit begins, and wash it down with a glass of brandy. As
the cold fit goes off, and the fever approaches, take a second third
part, with the like quantity of brandy; and on the following morning
fasting, swallow the remainder, with the same quantity of brandy as
before. Three doses of this excellent electuary have cured hundreds of
persons, and seldom been known to fail. To children under nine years of
age, only half the above quantity must be given. Try also the following
experiment. When the cold fit is on, take an egg beaten up in a glass of
brandy, and go to bed directly. This very simple recipe has proved
successful in a number of instances, where more celebrated preparations
have failed.