The first thing to be considered is what is topworking, and then the

logical question, why topworking. Possibly this should come first. If an

individual is dissatisfied with his friends and neighbors, he must put

up with them; he cannot change them. But if he is dissatisfied with a

nut tree, it is his own fault if he does not change it. It can be top

worked. He does not care to top work maples or oaks. We only top work to

get something better than we have. The trees, of course, that interest

us specially in top working are the nut trees. We have seedling pecans,

seedling walnuts, seedling hickories, and seedling chestnuts. Down at

the mouth of Green River in Kentucky are nearly two hundred acres of

wild pecan trees. So far as we know there are only two trees in that

orchard worthy of propagation. Of thousands of trees there we have

propagated only two varieties. These trees are now too large to top

work, but had it been possible 150 years ago to go in there and select

the desirable nuts, and topwork all the other trees with these, there

could have been a great orchard there now of the highest quality nuts.

Topworking consists in cutting off the top of some undesirable seedling

and replacing it with scions or buds from some desirable variety. It is

just the same as any other grafting or budding process. Almost any size

tree can be topworked but, of course, the larger the tree the more

difficult the operation. A young tree, from two to five inches in

diameter, can be sawed off four or five feet above the ground and

topworked by grafting from two to four scions on it, by the slip bark

process. If the tree is larger than five inches in diameter, it is

better to go up to the first branches, saw off part of them and proceed

just as if each branch were itself a small tree. If the tree is a large

tree, with a number of branches or prongs, it is best to work part of

them one year and leave the remaining branches to maintain the root

system. It would probably kill a large tree to cut the whole top off at

one time. I have seen trees, two feet in diameter, successfully

topworked. It sometimes happens that the scions placed in the tree, in

the spring, for some reason or other, do not grow. The tree then sends

up nice green shoots that later in the season can be budded into just as

if they were small seedlings. The wild black walnut trees, growing

around the fields and hills, can all be very easily topworked to the

English walnut by the slip bark method. The scions must be dormant and

the tree starting into active growth.

The wild hickory, wild pecan and wild black walnut trees, offer the best

field for profitable work along this line. We have topworked a great

many hickories to pecan, but we do not expect permanent satisfactory

results. The experience of the pecan on the hickory is not very

satisfactory. The hickory is a dense, hard wood, that has a short

growing season, and matures its nuts early; the pecan is of the coarser,

faster growing wood, whose nuts grow until late in the fall. This

inconsistency of the growing habits of the two trees prevents the pecan

top on the hickory from producing normal crops of nuts. The pecan

topworked to the pecan, however, is a perfect success and there is no

reason why the wild hickories of all descriptions cannot be successfully

and profitably topworked to the better varieties of the good shagbark

hickories. I believe that there are great opportunities in the state of

New York for successful nut culture by utilizing the wild black walnut

trees and the hickories. I have seen hundreds of English walnut trees

growing around Rochester, some of them bearing perfectly wonderful crops

of walnuts. I am surprised that the people in this section have not

availed themselves more of the opportunities along this line. If the

farmers in this section would take up nut growing as a side proposition

and set five or ten acres of nut trees on each farm, they would soon

find that these nut trees would be producing them more than all the

balance of their farms. We hear a great deal today about the back to the

farm movement, but my opinion is that for everyone who is going to the

farm, ten are leaving it, and the reason for this is that the heavy

operating expense of the annual crops, such as corn, wheat and potatoes,

etc., lay such a heavy toll on the farmer that farming is not

profitable. The requirements of time, labor and money in producing these

crops are so great that it discourages many farmers. I have made the

statement to some of the farmers in my part of the country that they

must produce alfalfa or go broke. I believe that alfalfa and tree crops

will be two of the greatest factors in the rehabilitation of the farm,

especially the nut trees, for the reason that nut trees do not require

the same high degree of care, spraying, pruning, as do apple and peach

trees, nor are the products as perishable. A crop of nuts can be

harvested and stacked up in barrels, and boxes, in the smoke house, the

barn or in a flat car and go to the market tomorrow, next week or next

month.

Recurring to the advantage of topworking, however, it meets the

objection that is often raised by those who say they have not time to

wait for the nut trees to grow. Of course, this is a perfectly foolish

statement; they are going to wait anyhow; it is simply a question as to

whether they wait for something or nothing, and trees grow into maturity

in a surprisingly short time. A few years ago, when I was setting out an

orchard of nut trees, a neighbor of mine came over and looked very

doubtfully with a trace of pity in his expression and said, "When do you

expect all those trees that you are setting to bear?" I replied, "I am

not sure, but I do know that they will bear a long time before those

trees that you are not setting." Topworking, however, gives quick

results and enables one to take advantage of the long-established

thrifty root systems of the wild black walnuts, hickories and pecans

growing in economic spots, around the fences, corners, creeks and

hillsides.

* * * * *

MR. JONES: In all our grafting we cut the cleft; we don't split

it. The slip bark method is better in some cases.

MR. PRESIDENT: What is the size limit for the slip bark method?

MR. JONES: Anything less than two inches we would cut.

THE PRESIDENT: Will Mr. Jones tell us about budding with cold

storage wood?

MR. JONES: The cold storage buds would take better, but you

would have more loss in their failing to grow. In other words, a much

larger percentage of buds set with the current season's growth, will

grow in the following spring. I would not recommend either method alone.

By grafting in the spring and then budding, first with cold storage and

later with the season buds, you would have three chances.

THE PRESIDENT: Have you budded any cold storage wood before

this year?

MR. JONES: We have done more or less of it for six or eight

years, and it has been successful. Anyone with very little experience

can use cold storage buds.

THE PRESIDENT: Mr. W. C. Reed, have you any additions that we

ought to know?

MR. W. C. REED: Mr. Jones' method and views in regard to cold

storage buds agree with mine exactly. Last year I put in on July 30th

quite a number of English walnut buds that were held in cold storage. In

the fall we seemed to have almost perfect stands from these buds, but

they are still lying dormant. Buds of the season's growth put in about

three or four weeks later gave better results, although our success last

year was very poor. We seemed to have a fair stand on quite a number of

varieties, but this spring they refused to grow. I lay much of this

trouble to the extreme cold we had in November. This killed many peach

trees that were from six to eight years old, and I think it injured many

of the walnut buds. I found the buds that started best were those

nearest the ground, where they were protected by a little grass.

In regard to the topworking of the English walnut, several of you have

seen my trees, the three trees along the highway in a ditch where they

catch the wash where they have made 91/2 feet growth. I am sorry to

report that two of these trees are entirely gone, killed by the cold

spell, and the other is about half alive, but I was not in the least

discouraged by that loss. In September the rains commenced, following

the extreme drouth and started a second growth, and the freeze caught

them November 22d as full of sap then as they were in September, when

you were there.

Other trees that I had topworked had made a moderate growth, and were

not injured in the least. They made a good growth this season, and

should be quite fruitful next year.

The Pomeroy trees in the bluegrass pasture had made only a moderate

growth, and went through the winter in good shape.

I had three trees of the Rush, probably twenty-five feet high. They were

injured a little, some of the growth killing back a third of the way,

and one or two buds were killed entirely.

In regard to topworking pecans, I have not done much of this, but our

success has been very good with what we have tried. I find them much

easier to work, as far as the bud starting in the spring is concerned.

Some varieties, however, do not start readily. With the Major, Green

River, and one or two other varieties, we can use wood five, six and

eight years old, and have it come out all right. I find, however, that

the current season's growth, cut from two-year-old trees, well

developed, will give you at least double the growth in the nursery the

first year that older or dormant wood will.

THE PRESIDENT: Some apple experience of mine is a close match

to the killing that Mr. Reed just reported. The season of 1912 was a

very dry one. All September it rained frequently and heavily. The trees

waked up and grew with such speed that many of them made a sappy growth

where they had been manured, and a very cold spell early in the winter

killed 100 of them. Others across the road were uninjured.

MR. W. C. REED: In regard to grafting in the nursery, this

spring my experience has been somewhat varied. In grafting we started

about April 10th; the first grafting was almost an utter failure. On May

1st it improved. On May 9th we set 900 and have 75 per cent growing

today, some higher than my head. Set with wood some of which would run

three-fourths inches in diameter.

LADY DELEGATE: My sister has on her place 200 or 300 black

walnut seedlings. What would you advise her to do with these? They are

in all ages and stages of growth, from one to ten years.

MR. LITTLEPAGE: That is a very broad question to answer. I

should topwork them to the Persian walnut. I should topwork all of them

on the chance that future developments would leave them the proper

distance apart. The walnut transplants very easily, except that the

larger the tree, the more danger of loss. Trees of that size ought to be

worked very nicely.

Assume that this is your tree, and that you have sawed off the top. Here

is your scion from your desirable tree. It is to be cut on one side

only, and there is considerable art in making that cut true. Then with

the knife split down the bark on the stock a little way and shove the

scion down between the wood and bark, the cut side next to the wood of

the stock (demonstrating), and cover with waxed cloth. Then apply

grafting wax to the cut surface, and cover all with a paper bag for two

or three weeks. There should not be more than two buds on a scion. Don't

leave too many. One bud is better than three, but you may leave two

buds. This scion must be kept entirely dormant until used. Any time

after the bark will slip readily is the proper time to graft, and you

will then get a high percentage of success. Keep your sap circulating to

the top by putting two or three scions around the top of the stock. This

method of grafting is a very simple operation when you know a few little

fundamental facts about it. The kind of wax or cloth is not particularly

important. Mr. Reed and Mr. Jones and Mr. Rush have had much experience

in this work.

MR. PARISH: In doing this, shall we put in a little air hole?

MR. LITTLEPAGE: No. In from ten days to two weeks tear a little

hole in the paper bag. Next time be careful, for it may be full of

wasps. The purpose of that paper sack is to keep the water off the buds.

This is essential.

MR. PHILLIPS: I had about 300 trees planted in 1911, black

walnuts. In 1913 I budded them according to the Oregon method. I failed

to make any of these grow. In 1913 I cleft grafted and a great many of

these started, but they all failed to live. I wonder wherein I failed.

MR. LITTLEPAGE: No one can tell why a particular scion does not

live. I had scions from a very fine hickory and I put them in cold

storage. The wood was in perfect condition. I grafted perhaps 100 of

these scions as I have described. I have four trees growing out of the

100 grafted. In handling the wood I got fungus on it probably. That may

be one reason why it failed. There may be other reasons. If the scions

were not dormant that might explain it.

MR. W. C. REED: I think it is very important that walnut

grafting wood should be cut before severe weather in the winter, though

I don't think it ever grows cold enough to hurt pecan wood. You need not

worry about pecan wood, but in the case of the walnut it should be cut

before extreme cold weather and put in cold storage. I cut some last

year after the extreme cold snap in December and we threw it practically

all away this spring. It is useless. You are throwing away your time to

use it.

MR. JONES: I don't think we had any wood that was not injured

during the cold winter of 1911-12. Out of about 2,600 grafts set we had

two grow.

QUESTION: What do you mean by cold storage?

MR. W. C. REED: I have been storing all of our wood in ordinary

apple cold storage plants. Pack it in damp moss or excelsior. Paper line

your boxes well, and nail them up, and leave them there until you are

ready to use them. I have put wood in in November and taken it out in

good shape in August. Pecan wood can be held the year round.

THE PRESIDENT: What can you tell us, Mr. White, that has not

yet been covered?

MR. PAUL WHITE: About all I would care to say about topworking

would be to ask a question. They claim that the pecan topworked on the

hickory, only bears for a few years, and then stops. What would be the

result in the case of the English and black walnuts? Might there not be

some danger there?

THE PRESIDENT: I have made considerable investigation of this.

I have found several English walnuts topworked on black walnuts, one

done eighty years ago down in Maryland. The tree is reported to have

borne twenty-five bushels of nuts. I think there is good explanation for

the pecan-hickory trouble. A hickory grows for a short time in early

summer and does not grow much, but a pecan grows twice as much.

Therefore the hickory roots cannot feed the pecan top enough to make

both vegetation and fruit. We are, in this city, in a very unusual

place. Not only is it the center of a great wealth of seedling Persian

walnut trees, but we have in the parks a great tree collection under

Superintendent Laney. This is a very fine and notable collection,

including American and foreign trees, some of which we will see this

afternoon.

Adjournment at 12:12 P.M.

Photographs of the convention were then taken on the steps of the City

Hall.

THURSDAY EVENING SESSION.

Convened at 8:20 P.M., Dr. Smith presiding.

Attendance about twenty.

A Nominating Committee was appointed, consisting of Messrs. Littlepage,

C. A. Reed, J. F. Jones, Webber, and Teter.

At this point was given the address by C. A. Reed.

AN APPEAL TO OWNERS OF HARDY NUT TREES

C. A. REED, NUT CULTURIST, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE,

WASHINGTON, D. C.

Ever since the colonists first established themselves in the Western

Hemisphere, nut trees have been planted up and down the Atlantic Coast.

One of the species oftenest included in such planting was a walnut, a

native to Persia which, with Romanism, had spread across Europe and the

channel into England. In the Old World it had variously been known as

Jove's nut, under the supposition that it had once been the food of the

gods; Royal nut, meaning King nut; and by other common names which would

be interesting to discuss but which are not pertinent in this

connection. In England it had been known merely as the "walnut," but in

the New World, in order to distinguish it from the walnut found here, it

was called the "English" walnut. In the trade today it is commonly known

by the Old World name, other walnuts being distinguished from it by

prefixing their common names, as Eastern, California, Mexican or

Japanese black walnut, etc. However, being a native of Persia, it was

long ago decided that the correct name of this nut should be "Persian"

walnut, and not "English" walnut. As such it has now been referred to in

scientific publications for well towards a quarter of a century.

Subsequent to this rather limited and scattered planting on the Atlantic

Coast, by perhaps three hundred years, the Persian walnut put in its

appearance on the Pacific Coast. According to Bulletin No. 231 by the

University of California, it is probable that occasional trees were

planted in that state long before the discovery of gold in 1848.

Following that date, planting became much more general, but usually with

hardshell strains and always with seedling trees. From these early trees

the crops were never of great importance. In 1867 Mr. Joseph Sexton of

Santa Barbara, planted a sack of walnuts bought in the markets of San

Francisco, which he had reason to believe had been grown in Chili. Of

the resulting trees some were very good, others mediocre, and some

worthless. Later on, nuts from the best of these trees were planted, and

second generation seedlings produced. In this way the famous Santa

Barbara Papershell type of walnut was evolved. With it developed an

industry which among the tree products of southern California is now

second only to that of the orange. In 1910, the census takers found that

in the year preceding, the crop of walnuts of southern California,

which, by the way, came almost entirely from four counties, was valued

at more than that of the total crop of all other nuts grown in the

United States put together.

Four years after Mr. Sexton of southern California had planted this sack

of walnuts from San Francisco, Mr. Felix Gillet of Nevada City, in

northern California, began the introduction of French walnuts both by

seed and scions. Out of his efforts and those of others who subsequently

joined him, developed the walnut industry of northern California, which

now bids fair some day to equal that of the lower part of the state. The

famous French varieties of Franquette and Mayette were introduced by Mr.

Gillet, and from seedlings of his growing evolved the Concord, the San

Jose, and no doubt the Chase varieties.[1]

A nut which probably has received equally as much, if not more,

attention at the hands of experimental planters in this part of the

country is the chestnut. Just when the introduction of foreign strains

began, history seems to have failed to make clear; but according to

Powell[2] general dissemination in the Delaware section began with

introductions by Eleuthers Irénée du Pont de Nemours, made at about

1803. It is said that some of the original trees planted at that time

near the present site of the du Pont Powder mills by Mr. du Pont, still

survived when Mr. Powell recorded their history in 1898.

The spread of both European and Japanese chestnuts and their general

trial throughout the Eastern States has been narrated at former meetings

of this association. The chestnut blight, discovered on Long Island in

1904, after it had apparently gained several years' headway, and which

now seems fairly certain to have been introduced from Japan, has so

monopolized the attention of orchardists, foresters, landscape gardeners

and others interested in the chestnut that for the time being little is

being done with it, other than to study and discuss this disease. What

the final outcome will be no one can predict, but it is not improbable

that our pathologists will discover some practical means of control, or

that a natural enemy to the blight will appear. Nor is it unlikely that

immune strains of chestnuts, either native or foreign, will replace our

present groves and orchards, in case other efforts fail.

Another nut which has received a large degree of attention at the hands

of the planters and upon which hopes have been built from time to time

is the hazel, or filbert. Here again, history seems to have failed us,

for as yet the writer has been able to learn but little regarding the

early introductions into this country. In his _Nut Culturist_, published

in 1896, Mr. Fuller (A. S.) reasoned that at that time plants of the

European hazels must have been grown in the gardens of this country for

at least a hundred years. Writers on pomology make little reference to

this nut, but according to Mr. Fuller, nurserymen's catalogs listed

hazel varieties all through the early part of the last century. It was

believed that the hazel promised much for the gardener and the general

planter who wished for early returns. The species seemed capable of

readily adapting itself to cultivation, and being a shrub rather than a

tree, it required little space. It could be cultivated along with other

garden products at little additional expense for labor. Being an early

bearer it doubtless appealed strongly to the normal American demand for

quick returns.

Nevertheless, this nut met with its mortal foe in the way of a native

fungus which in a great many sections has proved entirely too much for

the European species. Where once this species was well represented up

and down the Atlantic Coast, few of its representatives are now to be

found.

Some early attention in these Eastern States has been paid to the

almond, another foreign species. It is supposed that this nut is a

native of the Mediterranean basin. Just when it was first tried on the

Atlantic Coast is not known, but of the nuts thus far mentioned it has

proved to be the least promising for the Eastern section. Sometimes said

to be "as hardy as the peach," it has been found to be the most exacting

in its requirements of soil and climate of any important nut now grown

in this country. Except with certain of the hardshell varieties, no

almonds are now known to be in any sense successful east of the Rocky

Mountains. According to Wickson (E. J.) in his _California Fruits_, the

almond is known to have been introduced into California previous to

1853. At that time efforts to build up an almond industry on the Pacific

Coast began to assume a somewhat serious air. After a half century of

trials and more or less persistent effort by the California planters the

culture of this nut has developed into the third most important nut

industry in the United States. As for the time being, the growing of

Persian walnuts centered in southern California, so did the growing of

almonds in the Sacramento Valley of northern California.

Northern Nut Growers Association, report of the proceedings at the sixth annual meeting Rochester, New York, September 1 and 2, 1915 · 第 4 / 7 段