NATURAL PHENOMENA OF THE OCEAN--SERVICE AT SEA--MR. VERNON--A DEAD
CALM--FEVER BREAKS OUT--DISPUTE BETWEEN CAPTAIN AND FIRST MATE--ITS
CONSEQUENCES--MORTALITY AMONG PASSENGERS--SIGHT THE LAND--TENERIFFE--
NOTICE OF HISTORY--SANTA CRUZ--ATTACK ON IT UNDER LORD NELSON--AN
EXCURSION UP THE PEAK.
I had during my voyages and travels ample proof of the truth of the
remark, that different people see the same object in very different
lights. Frequently I had heard persons declare that nothing is more
dull and stupid than a long sea voyage--that there is nothing on the
ocean to afford interest--nothing to look at, or think about--nothing to
do. I have every reason to assert the contrary of this to be the case.
Of course I had plenty to do in learning my profession; I did not forget
to make ample use of my master's gift--my sextant; and in this Mr
Henley gave me all the assistance in his power. I never failed to make
use of it on all occasions, so that in a short time I became a very good
observer. I do not say this as a boast, but that others may understand
what may be done by attention and perseverance. Sills and Broom used to
say that it would be time enough by-and-by to begin learning navigation,
and so weeks passed away, and they knew nothing whatever about it.
With regard to objects to be noted at sea, I will only touch on a few of
them. The form of the waves varied much as we advanced southward. In
the Bay of Biscay they had been exceedingly irregular, and now the
crests formed almost straight lines, only one sea now and then rising
above his fellows like some huge marine monster, and rolling on in
potent majesty, till lost to sight in the distance. The clouds, too,
were even for a time varying; one day especially I remember remarking
some masses of clouds collecting in the east--Mr Waller called them
lightning clouds--their shadowy parts were of a peculiar steel blue,
while the brighter portions glowed with a fleshy tint. At dusk,
catching the reflection of the sun, they seemed to shine out of the dark
sky like pale spectres of gigantic size, casting their supernatural
lights over the waves. At midnight the expected lightning burst forth
with as almost terror-inspiring grandeur; sometimes eight or ten flashes
of forked lightning darted forth at once, lighting up the whole ocean,
and showing the dark banks of clouds assembling in the distance. Even
when the lightning ceased, so great was the phosphorescence of the
ocean, that, as the ship surged onward through it, she seemed to be
throwing off masses of sparkling gems from her bows; and as I was
looking over the side, I observed a huge shark, or some other ocean
monster, swim by amidst a blaze of light. The clouds, like the waves,
grew more regular as we sailed south, and at length formed long parallel
lines, radiating out of the north-east, and converging into the
south-west points of the horizon--finally forming one unbroken sheet
over the Canary Islands.
The great difficulty of making observations at sea, except with a
sextant--and such, it must be remembered, are of a very rough nature
compared with those made on shore--is want of steadiness. The sea is
never quiet, and no machine has as yet been invented to counteract the
movement of a ship, and obtain a perfect level.
Mr Vernon, the clergyman passenger I spoke of, told me an anecdote of
Galileo, showing that, great as he was as an astronomer, he might make a
great mistake by forgetting to take all points into consideration. He
fancied that he had discovered a method of determining longitudes at sea
by observing the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites. He accordingly went
to the King of Spain and offered to manufacture telescopes to enable his
navigators to sail across the ocean without fear or hesitation. His
telescopes were unexceptionable, and his method excellent, but it
depended entirely on the perfect steadiness of the observer; and, as
even the biggest ships of the mighty monarch of Spain could not be
taught to keep quiet, the great astronomer's telescopes were perfectly
useless.
I was much struck with the fine deep Prussian blue of the waters, which
had changed from the cobalt bine of more northern latitudes, as also
with its extraordinary power to froth and effervesce. The water, as it
was dashed about the decks in the morning from the buckets, sparkled
like champagne; but perhaps that was owing more to the nature of the
atmosphere than to any peculiarity in the water.
I found that I had several erroneous notions of my own to correct. I
always fancied that a porpoise was a great fat lumbering sleepy animal,
simply because people are accustomed to say "as fat as a porpoise." In
reality he is a gracefully formed, remarkably fast, sociable,
warm-hearted, or rather warm-blooded fellow, with a coat of fat like a
paletot on his back, to keep out the chill of the icy seas. He is more
like a hunter than a pig; and, as to "rolling and wallowing," those are
expressions used by poets who never saw a porpoise dashing away at
twenty or thirty knots an hour, or a whole shoal bearing down upon a
ship like a troop of light horse, and escorting her for miles and miles,
careering away, darting round and round her as if she were only going at
the speed of some heavy baggage waggon; and humbling the pride of those
who have been before hugging themselves with the pleasing idea that she
has been moving along at a tremendous speed. The back fin is triangular
and near the tail; and as the active fish plunges forward through the
tumbling seas, the fin seen for an instant, and looking like his back,
makes him appear as if he was rolling slowly on in the water--a very
different movement from what he really makes, which is rapid in the
extreme. While talking of cetaceous animals, to which order the
porpoise belongs, I must remark on a very common error held by seaman as
well as landsmen, that whales spout out water. The idea is, that the
water is taken into the stomach while the whale is feeding, and ejected
when he rises to the surface. This is in no sense the case. What the
whale spouts forth is a steam-like air, dense with mucous vapour, of
which he must empty his lungs before he can take in a fresh supply of
atmospheric air to enable him to dive down again to the depths of the
ocean.
We were now enjoying the north-east trade wind. The latitude in which
these winds are to be met with varies by several degrees, according to
the season of the year. An indication that we were entering them was
shown by the barometer, which had previously been low, falling still
more from 30 degrees 3 minutes to 30 degrees 2 minutes, and even lower.
But if I was to go on describing all the phenomena I observed, and all
the information on natural history I obtained, I should have no space
left for my own adventures, or an account of the countries I visited.
I spoke of Mr Vernon, a clergyman. At first he had been ill, but when
he recovered he made a great effort to have religious services held on
board on each Sunday, as well as on other days of the week. The captain
and first mate, as may be supposed, objected to the measure.
"People might go to church when they got on shore if they liked, but on
board his ship he was not going to have anything of that sort," was the
captain's reply.
"But our worship is to praise and to pray to that God who protects us
equally at sea as on shore," was Mr Vernon's mild reply. "It will be
such that all denominations may join in it, and surely no one on board
would wish to be without God's protection and help; yet, if we do not
ask for it when we have the power, how can we expect to obtain it?"
The captain could make no reply to this question, and though he went
away grumbling, and would afford no assistance to the arrangements, he
did not prevent Mr Henley from rigging an awning on deck, or oppose the
assembling together of the passengers and some very few of the crew
under it. The second mate, the doctor and I, and Spratt and Tommy Bigg,
were the only ones of the ship's company who took the trouble to attend.
Some kept away, they said, because the captain did not encourage the
movement; and others had no better reason to offer than that as they
never had had to attend services at sea, they did not know why they
should now begin. Broom said that he didn't come to sea to have to go
to church; and Sills remarked that, as the captain did not patronise the
affair, he did not think it right for the officers to do so, and he
wondered how we ventured to be so mutinous. Now, strange as it may
seem, these are in no degree more absurd or more contemptible than the
kind of excuses offered constantly by people on shore for not attending
religious worship; in other words, for not offering up their meed of
adoration, for not praying to that great and good Being from whom we all
receive our existence and everything we enjoy in this world, and in
whose presence and sight we can alone hope to enjoy happiness in the
life to come. Mr Vernon, however, persevered; and Sunday after Sunday
fresh members, if not converts, were added to his little congregation,
till even Sills and the rough Waller, and the still rougher boatswain,
occasionally appeared among them.
We had, for the sake of obtaining the north-east trade-wind, kept closer
to the coast of Africa than usual; and whether it was from keeping too
much to the eastward, or that for some reason the wind did not reach
that point, we found the breeze fail us, and the sails began to flap
lazily against the masts. There we lay day after day with the hot sun
beating down on our heads, making the pitch in the seams of the decks
boil and bubble, and drawing up dense masses of steam from the damp and
crowded berths below.
One day observing the doctor looking graver than usual, I inquired, as
he was passing along the deck, "What is the matter, doctor?"
"Fever has broken out among these poor people, in consequence, it is
pretty evident, of the measures I advised not having been taken at
Madeira; and if something is not done to get the ship to rights,
one-half of them may be carried off," he replied, with some bitterness
in his tone.
"What ought to be done?" I asked.
"Put into port and land the passengers," he replied. "A bad
commencement is certain to cause a great deal of trouble. Had we put
back to Plymouth the ship might at once have been, set to rights, and we
should probably have reached the Cape in less time and with less
suffering than it is likely will now be the case. If this were a
Government emigrant ship, I should have the power of compelling the
captain to put into port; but all I can do is to represent the state of
the case and protest."
Day after day we lay on the glass like shining ocean, surrounded by the
straw and empty hampers and bottles, and all sorts of things thrown
overboard, showing that we had not in the slightest degree moved from
the spot where the wind last left us. The people grew paler, and more
wan and sickly. Many took to their beds; and now one death occurred,
and now another. A strong, hardy young man was the first to succumb to
the fever, and then a young woman, and then a little child; next a
mother was carried off, leaving six or seven children to the care of the
heart-broken father. Again death came and carried off an old man, one
of those who had left home in the hope of making gold in the far-off
land to which we were bound.
A funeral at sea is a very impressive ceremony. Had Mr Vernon not been
on board, the dead would have been committed to their floating grave
with a scant allowance of it. He, however, came forward and read some
portions of Scripture, and offered up some short and appropriate
prayers--not for those who had departed; he had prayed with them and for
them while they were jet in the flesh--but that strength and support
might be afforded to the survivors, and that they might be induced to
repent and rest their hope on One who is all-powerful to save, ere they
too might be called away. Painful, indeed, were the scenes which took
place--the cries and groans of some of the bereaved ones--the silent
grief and trickling tears of others, while ever and anon the despairing
shrieks or ejaculations of those who feared that they too might speedily
be summoned from the world, were heard ascending from below.
Notwithstanding this, the captain vowed that he would continue the
voyage as soon as the wind returned, without again putting into port.
I had observed that though the captain carried it with a high hand over
all the other officers and crew, he always treated Mr Henley with
considerable respect, and never swore at or abused him. They, however,
very seldom exchanged any words with each other; and, indeed, never
spoke except on duty. I had lately remarked Mr Henley constantly
watching the captain, who seemed to shrink away from him at times, and
avoid his gaze; though when he saw that the second mate was not looking
at him, he turned on him a glance of the most intense hatred. One day,
after this sort of work had been going on for some time, I asked Mr
Henley why it was that he had said he would not, if he could have helped
it, have sailed again with Captain Gunnell.
"Have you remarked anything strange about him lately, Marsden?" he asked
in return.
I said that I thought he looked flushed and hurried in his manner, and
that he often spoke thick, and said things without meaning.
"You have divined one of the many reasons I have for not liking him," he
observed. "He has one of the worst vices which the master of a ship can
possess, or any man who has the lives of hundreds committed to his
charge. He is desperately addicted to liquor; yet, strange to say, he
has sufficient command over himself to keep sober in harbour, or when he
is approaching a port, so that the owners and consignees, and others who
might have taken notice of it, have never discovered his failing, as it
would be called, while an inferior officer like myself would feel that
it would be perfectly useless to report him. I thought of doing so for
the sake of my fellow-creatures who might have otherwise to sail with
him, but I knew that there would be great difficulty in substantiating
my charge, and that if I failed I should ruin my own prospects; so,
right or wrong, I abandoned the idea."
"And so once more you have to sail with him," I could not help
remarking.
"You are right, Marsden; I ought to have had more moral courage,"
answered the second mate. "And now I fear that he will get us into
greater trouble than he did those on board the ship in which I before
sailed with him. The way the men are treated is very bad; and his
refusal to put into harbour may be productive of very serious
consequences, especially should we be caught by bad weather."
Scarcely had Mr Henley said this than the captain made his appearance
on deck with his sextant in his hand, as if to take a meridional
observation. Though it was thus early in the day, I remarked the
peculiarities about him of which I had been speaking. He looked around
him angrily.
"Are none of the officers here?" he exclaimed, turning away, however,
from the second mate. "Where is Mr Grimes? what is the fellow about?
send him here, some one. And you, sir--you think yourself a navigator--
go and get your sextant and prove yourself one," he added, turning
fiercely to me. "You young slips of gentility must be kept in order."
Of course I made no other reply than, "Ay, ay, sir," and went below to
get my sextant. I kept it, I should have observed, in Mr Henley's
cabin. The door was locked, so I had to return to him for the key, and
some little time had thus elapsed before I got back on deck. I found
the first mate and captain in high dispute. The origin of the quarrel I
could not comprehend. They had differed, I found, as to their readings
on their instruments which is not surprising, for, horrible to relate,
as I watched them attentively the conviction forced itself on my mind
that they had both deprived themselves of the right use of their
intellects--they were both drunk, verging towards the condition of brute
beasts. Presently Mr Grimes said something which still more offended
the captain, who, lifting up his sextant--a valuable instrument
belonging to Captain Seaford--threw it with all his force at the mate's
head, and it was dashed to pieces on the deck. The latter, whose ear
had been struck, with the same thoughtless impulse, and furious at the
insult, rushed towards the captain, and striking him with his sextant in
return on the face, knocked him over, when, falling forward with the
impetus, it also was rendered hopelessly useless. There they both lay,
grovelling, kicking, and swearing, and abusing each other in a manner
truly terrible; while the cabin passengers who were on the poop,
witnesses of the scene, looked on with dismay, not knowing what might
next happen.
"I have seen something like this occur before," said Mr Henley to me.
"Call Mr Waller and the boatswain, we must carry them to their cabins."
I hurried to obey the order. Some of the men had observed the
occurrence, and I feared that the officers would scarcely be able to
maintain any authority over them after it. The master and first mate
were carried to their cabins; but they both contrived to get more
spirits brought to them, I afterwards found, by the steward, and for
several days they remained almost in a state of insensibility. During
this time three or four more of the second-class passengers had died;
the first, or, as some of the people forward called them, the
aristocrats, had hitherto escaped, as their cabins were better
ventilated and dryer, and they had better food, and, more than all,
generally knew better how to take care of themselves. But now they also
began to sicken, and look pale, and anxious, and sad. Well they might
indeed!
Mr Vernon's character as a minister of the gospel now appeared to great
advantage. Fearless himself, he went among the sick and dying,
encouraging, consoling, and warning. Many of those who had before
refused his ministrations now listened to him eagerly. Vain they felt
was any hope in man. He offered foundation for hope, but it was from
above. Fond of science as he was, all his scientific pursuits were now
laid aside that he might devote himself to the duties of his far higher
ministerial calling.
Mr Grimes made his appearance on deck before the captain. He could
scarcely be persuaded that some days had passed while he was below, and
was much puzzled to account for it. He thought that he had had the
fever, but never appeared to suspect the true cause of his illness,
till, asking for his sextant, the fragments were brought him by the
steward, who minutely explained how it had been broken. Then the truth
burst on him, but it did not make him at all ashamed; he only became
more savage and tyrannical. I felt very sure that, although I had
hitherto enjoyed a tolerable immunity from ill-treatment, my time would
come before long.
For some days, though the people continued sickly, death had not visited
us, and the spirits of the crew and passengers rose accordingly. The
great desire was to get a breeze. Sailors have a trick of whistling
when they want wind--trick it is, because very few really believe that
their whistling will bring a wind. It was amusing to see everybody
whistling; the boys forward took it up--the passengers aft; the gruff
old boatswain was whistling more furiously than anybody, but I saw him
cock his eye knowingly at some clouds gathering to the northward. Just
then, as I was looking aloft, I saw a bird pitch on the fore-topgallant
yard-arm.
"A booby! a booby!" was the cry.
Tommy Bigg was in the fore-top, sent up for something or other, and the
desire to possess the bird seized him. Any incident, however light,
creates a sensation in a calm. All eyes were directed towards Tommy and
the bird. It was a great doubt whether the latter would not fly away,
however, before Tommy got him.
"What is it you are looking at?" asked Sills, just then coming on deck.
"A booby, lad," answered the doctor, to whom he spoke regarding him
calmly; whereat Broom and Waller laughed, but Sills only said: "See now,
what's that?" and looked up at the yard-arm whereon the bird sat
perched.
"We've two of them aboard just now," observed Broom, who never lost an
opportunity of having a fling at his chum.
Tommy had reached the cross-trees: now he had his feet on the topgallant
yard. He looked at the booby, and the booby looked at him, as much as
to say, "What do you want with me?" but had not the sense to make use of
his wings. A great ado and discussion arose among the passengers, as to
whether boy or bird would prove the victor. Tommy worked his way along
the foot-ropes, holding on tightly with one hand while he lifted up the
other, and down it came on the neck of the bird. Tommy in triumph
brought him on deck, and in spite of the grabs made at him by the
seamen, succeeded in conveying him safely to me.
"There, sir, you'd like to have a look at that thing," said he, putting
the poor bird, whose windpipe he had pressed so tightly that it had
little power to struggle, into my hands.
The little fellow wanted to show his gratitude to me, so I thanked him,
and examined the bird. It was larger and longer in the body than a
common duck--a species of gannet--with a brown body, and under-part
white, and a long beak; its expression of countenance indicating, I
declared, the excessive stupidity it is said to possess. Several of the
passengers crowded round to have a look at the stranger, and while thus
engaged I was startled by hearing Mr Waller, who had charge of the
deck, sing out--
"Hand topgallant sails! brail up the main-sail! let fly mizzen-topsail
sheets! up with the helm!"
Mr Henley, hearing the orders, hurried on deck, while Mr Grimes,
scarcely yet having recovered his senses, came out of his cabin and
looked stupidly about him. The example he set, of course, had a bad
effect on the crew, already badly enough disposed; so they slowly and
lazily prepared to obey orders which should instantly have been
executed. A heavy squall, which the third mate ought to have foreseen,
struck the ship. Over she heeled to it, till she was borne down on her
beam ends. Away flew royals, topgallant sails, main and
mizzen-topsail-sheets, and the stout ship, before she righted and obeyed
the helm, was deluged with water, and reduced almost to a wreck. At
length she was got before the wind, and away she ran towards the south
and east, surrounded by a cloud of mist and foam which circumscribed our
view to a very narrow compass. The sea, too, got up with a rapidity
truly astonishing. It seemed as if the giant waves had been rolling on
towards us from some far-off part of the ocean. All that day and night
we ran on. Scarcely had the first streaks of dawn appeared, when the
look-out aloft shouted--
"Land on the starboard bow!"
Startling, indeed, was the cry. Mr Henley and I, and Mr Waller, had
been watching to take observations after the captain and mate had broken
their sextants, but we had not been able to ascertain our position with
the exactness we wished; and the second mate thought the ship might have
been set by some current to the eastward of her course. The first mate
now came on deck; he examined the land as we drew in with it, and then
ordered the ship to be kept more to the southward, but still the land
appeared more and more ahead. I asked Mr Henley what he thought about
the matter.
"I have some fears that it is the coast of Africa. It may be the
north-east coast of Grand Canary," he answered; but even while we were
speaking, we observed a line of dark rocks over which the sea was
breaking furiously, heaving up on high, dense masses of foam.
Shipwreck, in one of its worst aspects, on a wild coast, without help at
hand, stared us in the face. The passengers soon got notice of the
condition of the ship, and came hurrying, pale and trembling, on deck.
Never had I seen so many horror-stricken countenances collected
together, as they gazed forth on the rock-bound desolate shore towards
which the ship was hurrying. Mr Henley had carefully been watching the
land.
"I have hopes," he observed at last, "that the land we see is Point
Arraga in Teneriffe, and if so, we shall soon see a long continued
coast-line."
Anxiously we kept our eyes fixed on the shore. Just then an apparition
appeared in the shape of the captain, his coat only half on, and his
hair streaming in the wind. He looked about him, trying to comprehend
what had occurred. Then suddenly he ordered the helm to be put to port,
with the idea of hauling up to the westward, and trying to escape the
danger in that direction. Before the order was obeyed Mr Henley
stepped boldly up to him.
"If we do that, sir, the ship will be cast away," he said firmly. "That
is the island of Teneriffe aboard of us, and we shall soon be getting
round its eastern point and into smooth water."
By this time all the cabin, as well as second-class passengers and the
crew, were collected on deck, listening anxiously to what was going
forward. The captain stamped about the deck once or twice, as if
undecided what to do.
"You may be a very good navigator, Mr Henley, and you may have taken
very good care of the ship while I have been ill," he exclaimed at last;
"but to tell me that the land we see there is the island of Teneriffe,
is perfectly ridiculous. I'd just as soon believe that that is
Teneriffe as I would what you and the parsons would tell us, that
there's a heaven and all that."
Just as he was speaking, the dark clouds which had hitherto, as if they
had been thick folds of drapery, completely shut out the sky and all
surrounding objects, were suddenly widely rent asunder, and high above
our heads appeared, like a mass of burnished gold lit up by the rays of
the fast rising sun, the lofty peak of Teneriffe towering in majesty
towards the blue sky, 12,000 feet above the ocean.
"As surely as there exists before us that grand mountain, so surely is
there a heaven," said the deep-toned voice of Mr Vernon. "And, my
friends, ere it be too late, seek the only path by which that glorious
heaven can be gained, and eternal misery and self-reproach avoided."
Some listened and crowded round the clergyman, but the captain turned
aside, observing with a half sneer, "That's Teneriffe, there's no doubt
about that; and so I suppose we shall have to bring up at Santa Cruz to
get some fresh vegetables and fish for some of you good people."
He was evidently wishing just then to ingratiate himself with the
passengers, while, from the state of the ship, he knew that he would be
compelled to put into the nearest port to repair damages.
As we sailed along, one headland after another came into view, and then
we began to distinguish the varied and very bright colours of the
land,--reds, browns, and yellows of every degree. While sheltered by
the coast we no longer felt the force of the wind, but glided calmly on
in comparative smooth water. Again, however, the glorious peak, by the
intervening clouds which played wildly around it, was hid from sight,
and only the slopes of the town hills, the green valleys, or mountain
glens, coming down to the very water, could be seen. By degrees,
however, the trees, and even the solitary Euphorbia bushes, could be
distinguished, and then a long, low, white line appeared, which our
telescopes divided into the houses, and churches, and towers of Santa
Cruz, the capital of the island. Before long the _Orion_ was rolling
her sides in the glassy waters of the bay opposite the town. Once upon
a time the island possessed a magnificent harbour--that of Garachico--
but it was filled up by a stream of red-hot lava which flowed into it
from an eruption of the mountain in 1705, and which committed much other
damage. Glassy as was the surface, the rollers from the ever unquiet
ocean came slowly in, causing; the vessels at anchor to dip their sides
alternately in the water up to their bulwarks, and, as we stood on the
deck of the _Orion_, making it seem now and then as if the town, by a
violent convulsion of nature, had been suddenly submerged before our
very eyes. This was not a place to remain in longer than could be
helped, and accordingly the captain directed Mr Henley, as the only
officer in whom he could confide, to go on shore and to bargain for the
necessary assistance we required to fit new spars and masts, and in
other respects to repair our damages. Mr Henley, knowing how anxious I
was to go on shore at every place we visited, got leave for me to
accompany him. Away we glided on the summit of the glassy roller
towards the mole, and as we passed by, active hands being ready to catch
the boat, we stepped out, and away went the watery mass broken into
sheets of foam along the sandy shore, making all the Spanish boats
hauled up on it bump and thump and grind together as if it would knock
them to pieces; but I suppose that they were accustomed to such
treatment, for no one interfered to place them in safer positions.
I was particularly struck on landing with the brilliant colours and
varied hues, not only of the sky and water, the earth and the buildings,
but of the dresses and very skins of the peasantry. Every cake out of
my paint-box would have been required, I was sure, to give effect to the
scene. Even the barefooted porters wore red scarfs round their waists,
while shawls and handkerchiefs of every tint adorned the heads and
shoulders of the women--hats, however, being worn generally by the older
dames. Then there was the fine tawny colour of the persevering oxen who
dragged after them little sledges laden with casks and bales. Camels
also we saw introduced from the not far off coast of Africa, patient as
ever, bearing heavy weights balanced on their hump backs. Madeira was
hot, but we were much hotter now, as the basalt-paved streets and the
white glittering buildings sent back the burning rays of the almost
vertical sun. Thus fired and scorched, we could not help gazing with a
somewhat envious glance into some of the Moorish-looking houses, not
unlike the model of the Alhambra or the Pompeian house at the Crystal
Palace, only not quite so fine as the former, with bananas growing in
the centre of their court-yards, and fountains throwing up cool jets of
water, and shady corridors and alcoves, the widespreading leaves of the
banana throwing a refreshing coolness around. Having heard that Santa
Cruz was a very poor place, we were astonished to find it really a fine
city with handsome houses, spreading backwards a considerable distance
from the sea, with gardens and villas beyond, and outside all cactus
plantations and cultivated terraces rising up the slopes of the
mountains. I was proceeding with Mr Henley in search of the consul,
who was to arrange matters about the ship, when I felt a hand placed on
my shoulder, and I heard a voice say--
"Halloa, old fellow!--Marsden! what wind has brought you here in that
rig?"
"A pretty stiff gale," I answered, looking up and recognising an old
school-fellow, Tom Lumsden, who, though older than Alfred, was a great
friend of his.
"Come along, then, and tell me all about it," said he. "I have an uncle
settled here, and I have been sent out to learn business with him. Come
and stay with us while your ship remains here. He'll get you leave from
the captain. You can spare him us?" he added, addressing Mr Henley,
who laughed, and said that he hoped I should always find friends
wherever I went.
Lumsden at once got his uncle to send off a note to the captain, who
replied in the most courteous way that I was welcome to remain as long
as the ship was there.
"Capital!" exclaimed Lumsden. "We were on the point of starting up the
peak just for a pic-nic of three or four days. The ship won't sail
before that time. You shall go with us."
Of course I was delighted. We were to start after an early dinner, and
in the interval Lumsden took me round the place to show me its lions. I
can only venture to give a rapid and brief summary of what I saw and
heard. The Canaries were known to the ancients, and were called the
fortunate or happy isles. Their present name is derived from _Canis_--
dogs of a peculiar breed having been found in them. The inhabitants
were a fine and brave race, of whom little is known except that they had
the custom of embalming their dead. The Spaniards made several attempts
to take possession of the islands, but did not succeed in overcoming
their aboriginal inhabitants till about 1493, since which time the
latter have become completely amalgamated with the conquerors.
The group consists of seven islands of volcanic origin. The principal
islands are Teneriffe and Grand-Canaria. Teneriffe is sixty miles long
and thirty broad. The peak, called also the Peak of Teyde, is about the
centre of a dormant volcano nearly 12,000 feet high. Connected with it
are numerous mountain-ridges, out of which sulphuric vapours constantly
ascend, and another crater called Chahorra, close upon 10,000 feet high,
and to the west of it are several cones which were in a state of
eruption in 1798. Surrounding the peak is a plain bordered by
mountain-ridges and covered with pumice stones, the only vegetable which
grows on it being the _retama_. Indeed, only one-seventh of the whole
island is fit for cultivation, the rest being composed of lava and
ashes, or rocky heights and precipitous cliffs. Still, many of the
portions which can be cultivated are of extraordinary fertility; and the
contrast is very great between the richly-cultivated plains and valleys,
and the leafy forests, with the barren, scorched, and burnt sides of the
peak and its surrounding heights. I ought to have said that the houses
of Santa Cruz are of several stories, with the verandahs one above
another, looking into the interior courts, in which grow not only
bananas, but all sorts of tropical shrubs, and fruit, and flower-bearing
plants, in the most luxurious manner.
In speaking of Santa Cruz, I must not forget that it was here one of the
greatest of England's admirals, Nelson, lost his arm; and here alone he
failed of success among the numerous expeditions in which he was
engaged. He commanded a squadron under Lord Saint Vincent, who
despatched him to take Santa Cruz, and to cut out a valuable Spanish
ship, _El Princesse d'Asturias_, from Manilla, bound to Cadiz, which it
was reported had put in there. The first attempt to effect a landing
having failed, Nelson took command of the expedition. The directions
were that all the boats should land at the mole, but the night was very
dark, and the greater number having missed it, were driven on shore
through the surf I have described, and stove, while the admiral, with
only four or five boats, found the mole. This they stormed, though a
terrific fire was opened upon them; and Nelson, who was about to draw
his sword as he was stepping on shore, was struck by a musket-ball on
the right arm. Had not his step-son, Lieutenant Nisbet, and one of his
bargemen, John Lovel, bound up his arm, he would in all probability have
bled to death. Captain Troubridge having, in the meantime, succeeded in
collecting two or three hundred men on the beach, all who had escaped
being shot or drowned, marched to the square, and took possession of the
town. He, of course, had to abandon all hopes of taking the citadel;
but, though eventually hemmed in by eight thousand Spaniards, he was
able, by threatening to burn the town, to make terms, and to retire with
his little band from the place. In this disastrous affair, the English
lost, killed and wounded, two hundred and fifty men, and several
captains and other officers. Blake, it may be remembered, in the time
of the Commonwealth had cut out from this same bay some rich Spanish
galleons, and it was hoped that Nelson would have been equally
successful in a like attempt. The islanders do not bear us any ill will
in consequence, and I found a good many Englishmen living in the place.
Many of them are engaged in exporting Teneriffe wine, in days of yore
well known as Canary wine.
Talking of wine, the disease which has destroyed the vines of Madeira
has also committed great havoc here, but the people have been saved from
ruin by the discovery of a new article of export. The cactus, that
thick-leaved, spiny plant used often in the south to form hedges, which
look as if the ground was growing a crop of double-edged saws,
flourishes in the most arid soil in Teneriffe. The cactus had some time
before been introduced from Honduras with the cochineal insect, which
feeds on it, by a native gentleman; but his fellow-islanders turned up
their noses at the nasty little creature, and said that they would
rather produce wine as had been done for the last three hundred years or
more. When, however, their vines sickened and died, too glad were they,
one and all, to have such for their support, and everybody, high and
low, took to planting cactus and breeding the cochineal. The female
insect is in form like a bug, but white; the male turns into something
like a gnat, and soon dies. The insects are shut up in boxes to lay
their eggs on bits of linen, which are pinned to the cactus plants by
one of their own thorns. In six months after planting the cactus, the
harvest begins. The insect, which has secreted a purple fluid, is swept
off the plant on to a board, and then baked to death in an oven. This
constitutes the cochineal as imported. A single acre of land planted
with cactus will produce from three hundred pounds to five hundred
pounds of cochineal, worth 75 pounds to the grower.
Teneriffe produces the dragon-tree--_Dracena draco_--which gives forth
in the form of gum a splendid scarlet, known of old as dragon's blood;
but as they take a century or more to grow into trees, and several
centuries before they attain any size, he would be a daring man who
would attempt their cultivation for the sake of profit.
In strong contrast to the luxurious habitations of the upper classes
were the abodes of many of the poorer orders. When the now silent peak
sent forth streams of lava, it flowed down towards the sea, covering the
sandy shore, where, cooled by the water, it stopped short. In many
places, in process of time, the sand has been washed away, leaving rows
of caverns, with flat lava roofs. Numbers of poor people have taken up
their abode in these nature-formed recesses; and if they have no
windows, they have plenty of sea air, and pay no taxes.
I had an opportunity of seeing something of the fish of these regions.
A net, as we passed near the beach, was being drawn on to it. There was
a shout, and a rush towards it. A huge monster of a ray, with the
sharpest of stings, was seen floundering amid a number of other
creatures, the most numerous being hammer-headed dog-fish, which were
quickly knocked on the head to be turned into oil, while the ray
(_Pteroplatea Canariensis_) was set on by a host of enemies, and
speedily despatched.
Now, dinner being over, mounted on horses, Lumsden and I, with his uncle
and three other friends, trotted off along a not bad road, lately
constructed by the Government, for Orotava, a town standing high above
the sea, not far from the base of the peak. The cross is the great
symbol, not only in Santa Cruz, but throughout the island; and in front
of nearly every house and on every height it is seen conspicuous. We
slept that night at that very sedate town of Orotava. We started at a
very early hour, having exchanged our horses for sure-footed, active
mules. As we ascended, the botanical changes were remarkable. The
gardens on either side of us were for some way filled with orange,
lemon, fig, and peach trees; 2000 feet higher, pear trees alone were to
be seen; and 2000 feet more, the lovely wild plants of the hypericum in
full bloom, with their pink leaves and rich yellow flowers, covered the
ground, and then a few heaths appeared, followed by English grasses. We
were then high above the clouds, the whole country below our feet being
entirely shut out by them. The region of the retama was at last gained,
7000 feet above the sea. It is a peculiar broom found nowhere else but
in Teneriffe. We stopped before this in a shady spot, where, among
heaths and ferns, a few laurels waved around, imparting coolness to the
air. A flock of goats were driven past us, from which we abstracted an
ample supply of milk. The only milk to be obtained in the island is
from goats, as the inhabitants never milk their cows. Goats in great
numbers are kept, and are often eaten, while their skins supply their
owners with clothing or with roofs for their huts. The two gentlemen
who accompanied us had some astronomical instruments with them; and when
the simple-minded people saw them looking in the evening at the moon,
they could not believe but that they were trying to discover if there
were any goats there to make it a fit abode for man. Without goats they
could not conceive that any place could be habitable. At length we
reached a spot where even goats could find no pasture. Vegetation there
was none: the surface of the ground was composed of ashes of pumice,
with cascades of black stones, while far below us floated a vast level
plain of mist. The heat was much greater than I expected to have found
it in so elevated a region.
"We shall soon arrive at a spot where we may be cool enough," observed
Lumsden, pointing to a little cross, which rose out of the lava.
We scrambled towards it, and on getting to the spot, found a hole about
four feet square. A rope-ladder and ropes had been brought. By their
means we descended about twenty feet, when we found ourselves in a large
cavern, with a pool of pure water at the bottom, and surrounded by
masses of snow--a curious and unexpected scene in that arid region of
lava and pumice stone. Of course, the scientific gentlemen eagerly
discussed the reason why the water was there retained. All agreed that
the snow--of which great quantities fall on the peak in winter--beat
into it at that time, and was thus preserved from the effect of the
sun's rays. I think they concluded that the floor of the cavern may
have been formed by a sheet of lava, and that thus a natural basin was
created. At the bottom of the water, however, we found a thick mass of
ice. Even in this cool spot we discovered a jet of smoke or vapour
coming out from amidst a heap of stones not far from the entrance hole.
As we proceeded on our ascent, 11,600 feet above the sea, we came upon a
jet of steam, at a temperature of 100 degrees, coming out of crevices in
the rocks three inches in diameter, and known as the Narix of the Peak.
As it was condensed on the surrounding stones, it gave nourishment to a
small quantity of moss growing among them. At last we reached the base
of the cone, and had to climb up about 470 feet; at first over loose
pumice, but soon coming to some red lava crags, the ascent was easy
enough. Often we found the ground hot beneath our feet, while jets of
sulphurous vapour greeted our olfactory nerves in an unpleasant way.
Still on we climbed till we found ourselves on the very basin of the
culminating crater, but were almost driven back by the jets of steam and
sulphurous vapours which surrounded us.
"A mighty tall chimney to a huge fire burning down below somewhere,"
observed Lumsden. "I have no wish to go down and try and sweep it, to
cure it of smoking, however."
The interior of the crater was judged to be about 300 feet in diameter
and 70 deep. A remarkable feature was its extraordinary whiteness when
not covered with sulphur. The surrounding wall was so narrow at the top
that there was scarcely standing room for two persons. In many places,
however, it has given way, and crumbled down into the interior floor.
We walked about over the whole of the floor, searching for specimens of
sulphur, without the slightest fear of falling through the crust, and
slipping down the chimney, as Lumsden called it. Again we were on our
descent. I remember stopping to lunch in a grassy ravine, under the
shade of a superb laurel, by the side of a clear stream, amid a
profusion of green leaves and lovely wild-flowers, on some delicious
bananas, and other fruits, cold tea, and biscuits.
Never did I more enjoy an excursion; and then I had many a long talk
with Lumsden about old times, and especially about Alfred. He entered--
as I knew he would--warmly into my projects and when we got back to
Santa Cruz, procured me several valuable letters both to the Cape, the
Mauritius, Ceylon, and many other places.
"I wish that I could go with you to assist in finding Alfred," he
exclaimed, as I was wishing him good-bye. "I'll see what my uncle will
say. Perhaps he may cut out some work for me in that direction; and if
so, depend upon me joining you sooner or later."
I have not mentioned Solon. By Lumsden's advice I had left him in his
house, lest he might suffer from the heat to which we were exposed. I
had a narrow escape from being left behind. Scarcely had Solon and I
got on board by a shore boat, than a breeze coming off the land, the
_Orion's_ anchor was hove up, and we stood out of the bay of Santa Cruz.