CHAP. IX.

Travels of Peter the Great.

[Sidenote: 1697.]

Having thus determined to visit the several countries and courts

above-mentioned in a private character, he put himself into the retinue

of three ambassadors, in the same manner as he had before mingled in the

train of his generals at his triumphant entry into Moscow.

[43] The three ambassadors were, general Le Fort, the boyard Alexis

Gollowin, commissary-general of war, and governor of Siberia, the same

who signed the perpetual treaty of peace with the plenipotentiaries

of China, on the frontiers of that empire; and Wonitzin, diak, or

secretary of state, who had been long employed in foreign courts. Four

principal secretaries, twelve gentlemen, two pages for each ambassador,

a company of fifty guards, with their officers, all of the regiment

of Preobrazinski, composed the chief retinue of this embassy, which

consisted in the whole of two hundred persons; and the czar, reserving

to himself only one valet de chambre, a servant in livery, and a dwarf,

mingled with the crowd. It was a thing unparalleled in history, for a

king of five-and-twenty years of age, to quit his dominions, in order

to learn the art of governing. His victory over the Turks and Tartars,

the splendour of his triumphant entry into Moscow, the number of foreign

troops attached to his service, the death of his brother John, his

co-partner in the empire, and the confinement of the princess Sophia to

a cloister, and above all the universal respect shewn to his person,

seemed to assure him the tranquillity of his kingdom during his absence.

He intrusted the regency in the hands of the boyard Strechnef, and the

knez or prince Romadonowski, who were to deliberate with the rest of the

boyards in cases of importance.

Two troops raised by general Gordon remained behind in Moscow, to keep

every thing quiet in that capital. Those strelitzes, who were thought

likely to create a disturbance, were distributed in the frontiers of

Crim Tartary, to preserve the conquest of Azoph, and to check the

incursions of the Tartars. Having provided against every incident, he

gave a free scope to his passion and desire of improvement.

As this journey proved the cause, or at least the pretext, of the bloody

war, which so long traversed, but in the end promoted, all the designs

of the czar; which drove Augustus, king of Poland, from the throne;

placed that crown on the head of Stanislaus, and then stript him of it;

which made Charles XII. king of Sweden, the first of conquerors for nine

years, and the most unfortunate of kings for nine more; it is necessary,

in order to enter into a detail of these events, to take a view of the

state of Europe at that time.

Sultan Mustapha II. sat at that time on the Ottoman throne; the weakness

of whose administration would not permit him to make any great efforts,

either against Leopold, emperor of Germany, whose arms were successful

in Hungary, nor against the czar, who had lately taken Azoph from him,

and threatened to make himself master of the Pontus Euxinus; nor even

against the Venetians, who had made themselves masters of all the

Peloponnesus.

John Sobieski, king of Poland, for ever famous by the victory of

Chocksim, and the deliverance of Vienna, died the 17th of June, 1696,

and the possession of that crown was in dispute between Augustus,

elector of Saxony, who obtained it, and Armond, prince of Conti, who had

only the honour of being elected.

1697.] Sweden had lately lost, but without regret, Charles XI. her

sovereign, who was the first king who had ever been really absolute in

that country, and who was the father of a prince still more so, and with

whom all despotic power ceased. He left the crown to his son Charles

XII. a youth of only fifteen years of age. This was in all appearance a

conjuncture the most favourable for the czar's design; he had it in his

power to extend his dominions on the Gulf of Finland, and on the side of

Livonia. But he did not think it enough to harass the Turks on the Black

Sea; the settlements on the Palus Mæotis, and the borders of the Caspian

Sea, were not sufficient to answer his schemes of navigation, commerce,

and power. Besides, glory, which is the darling object of every

reformer, was to be found neither in Persia, nor in Turkey, but in our

parts of Europe, where great talents are rendered immortal. In a word,

Peter did not aim at introducing either the Persian or Turkish manners

among his subjects.

Germany, then at war both with the Turks and with the French, and united

with Spain, England, and Holland, against the single power of Lewis XIV.

was on the point of concluding peace, and the plenipotentiaries were

already met at the castle of Ryswick, in the neighbourhood of the Hague.

It was during this situation of affairs, that Peter and his ambassador

began their journey in the month of April, 1697, by the way of Great

Novogorod: from thence they travelled through Esthonia and Livonia,

provinces formerly disputed by the Russians, Swedes, and Poles, and

which the Swedes at last acquired by superiority of arms.

The fertility of Livonia, and the situation of its capital, Riga, were

temptations to the czar, to possess himself of that country. He

expressed a curiosity to see the fortifications of the citadel. But

count D'Alberg, governor of Riga, taking umbrage at this request,

refused him the satisfaction he desired, and affected to treat the

embassy with contempt. This behaviour did not at all contribute to cool

the inclination the czar might have, to make himself one day master of

those provinces.

From Livonia they proceeded to Brandenburg-Prussia, part of which had

been inhabited by the ancient Vandals; Polish Prussia had been included

in European Sarmatia. Brandenburg-Prussia was a poor country and badly

peopled; but its elector, who afterwards took the name of king,

displayed a magnificence on this occasion, equally new and destructive

to his dominions. He piqued himself upon receiving this embassy in his

city of Konigsberg, with all the pomp of royalty. The most sumptuous

presents were made on both sides. The contrast between the French dress

which the court of Berlin affected, and the long Asiatic robes of the

Russians, with their caps buttoned up with pearls and diamonds, and

their scimitars hanging at their belts, produced a singular effect. The

czar was dressed after the German fashion. The prince of Georgia, who

accompanied him, was clad in a Persian habit, which displayed a

different magnificence. This is the same who was taken prisoner

afterwards at the battle of Narva, and died in Sweden.

Peter despised all this ostentation; it was to have been wished that he

had shewn an equal contempt for the pleasures of the table, in which the

Germans, at that time, placed their chiefest glory. It was at one of

those entertainments,[44] then too much in fashion, and which are alike

fatal to health and morality, that he drew his sword upon his favourite,

Le Fort; but he expressed as much contrition for this sudden sally of

passion, as Alexander did for the murder of Clytus; he asked pardon of

Le Fort, saying, that he wanted to reform his subjects, and could not

yet reform himself. General Le Fort, in his manuscript praises the czar

more for this goodness of heart, than he blames him for his excess of

passion.

The ambassadors then went through Pomerania and Berlin; and, from

thence, one part took its way through Magdeburg, and the other by

Hamburg, a city which already began to be considerable by its extensive

commerce, but not so rich and populous as it has become since. From

thence they directed their route towards Minden, crossed Westphalia, and

at length, by the way of Cleves, arrived at Amsterdam.

The czar reached this city fifteen days before the ambassadors. At his

first coming, he lodged in a house belonging to the East India company;

but soon afterwards he took a small apartment in the dock-yard,

belonging to the admiralty. He then put on the habit of a Dutch skipper,

and in that dress went to the village of Saardam, a place where a great

many more ships were built at that times, than at present. This village

is as large, as populous, and as rich, and much neater, than many

opulent towns. The czar greatly admired the multitude of people who were

constantly employed there, the order and regularity of their times of

working, the prodigious dispatch with which they built and fitted out

ships, the incredible number of warehouses, and machines, for the

greater ease and security of labour. The czar began with purchasing a

bark, to which he made a mast with his own hands; after that, he worked

upon all the different parts in the construction of a vessel, living in

the same manner as the workmen at Saardam, dressing and eating the same

as them, and working in the forges, the rope-walks, and in the several

mills, which are in prodigious numbers in that village, for sawing

timber, extracting oil, making paper, and wire-drawing. He caused

himself to be enrolled in the list of carpenters, by the name of Peter

Michaelhoff, and was commonly called Peter Bas, or Master Peter: the

workmen were at first confounded at having a crowned head for a

fellow-labourer, but soon became familiarized to the sight.

While he was thus handling the compass and the axe at Saardam, a

confirmation was brought him of the division in Poland, and of the

double nomination of the elector Augustus, and the prince of Conti. The

carpenter of Saardam immediately promised king Augustus to assist him

with thirty thousand men; and, from his work-loft, issued out orders to

his army that was assembled in the Ukraine against the Turks.

11th Aug. 1697.] His troops gained a victory over the Tartars near

Azoph, and a few months afterwards took from them the city of Or, or

Orkapi, which we call Precop.[45] As to himself, he still continued

improving in different arts: he went frequently from Saardam to

Amsterdam, to hear the lectures of the celebrated anatomist, Ruysch; and

made himself master of several operations in surgery, which, in case of

necessity, might be of use both to himself and his officers. He went

through a course of natural philosophy, in the house of the burgomaster

Witzen, a person for ever estimable for his patriotic virtue, and the

noble use he made of his immense riches, which he distributed like a

citizen of the world, sending men of abilities, at a great expense, to

all parts of the globe, in search of whatever was most rare and

valuable, and fitting out vessels at his own charge to make new

discoveries.

Peter Bas gave a truce to his labours for a short time, but it was only

to pay a private visit at Utrecht, and at the Hague, to William, king of

England, and stadtholder of the United Provinces. General Le Fort was

the only one admitted to the private conference of the two monarchs.

Peter assisted afterwards at the public entry of his ambassadors, and at

their audience: they presented, in his name, to the deputy of the

states, six hundred of the most beautiful sables that could be procured;

and the states, over and above the customary presents on these

occasions, of a gold chain and a medal, gave them three magnificent

coaches. They received the first visits of all the plenipotentiaries who

were at the congress of Ryswick, excepting those of France, to whom they

had not notified their arrival, not only because the czar espoused the

cause of Augustus against the prince of Conti, but also because king

William, whose friendship he was desirous of cultivating, was averse to

a peace with France.

At his return to Amsterdam he resumed his former occupations, and

completed with his own hands, a ship of sixty guns, that he had begun

himself, and sent her to Archangel; which was the only port he had at

that time on the ocean.

He not only engaged in his service several French refugees, Swiss, and

Germans; but he also sent all sorts of artists over to Moscow, and he

previously made a trial of their several abilities himself. There were

few trades or arts which he did not perfectly well understand, in their

minutest branches: he took a particular pleasure in correcting with his

own hands, the geographical maps, which at that time laid down at hazard

the positions of the towns and rivers in his vast dominions, then very

little known. There is still preserved, a map, on which he marked out,

with his own hand, his projected communication of the Caspian and Black

Seas, the execution of which he had given in charge to Mr. Brekel, a

German engineer. The junction of these two seas was indeed a less

difficult enterprise than that of the Ocean and Mediterranean, which was

effected in France; but the very idea of joining the sea of Azoph with

the Caspian, astonished the imagination at that time: but new

establishments in that country became the object of his attention, in

proportion as his successes begat new hopes.

His troops, commanded by general Schein and prince Dolgorowski, had

lately gained a victory over the Tartars near Azoph, and likewise over a

body of janissaries sent by sultan Mustapha to their assistance. (July

1696.) This success served to make him more respected, even by those who

blamed him, as a sovereign, for having quitted his dominions, to turn

workman at Amsterdam. They now saw, that the affairs of the monarch did

not suffer by the labours of the philosopher, the traveller, and the

artificer.

He remained at Amsterdam, constantly employed in his usual occupations

of shipbuilding, engineering, geography, and the practice of natural

philosophy, till the middle of January 1698, and then he set out for

England, but still as one of the retinue of his ambassadors.

King William sent his own yacht to meet him, and two ships of war as

convoy. In England he observed the same manner of living as at Amsterdam

and Saardam; he took an apartment near the king's dockyard, at Deptford,

where he applied himself wholly to gain instruction. The Dutch

builders had only taught him their method, and the practical part of

shipbuilding. In England he found the art better explained; for there

they work according to mathematical proportion. He soon made himself so

perfect in this science, that he was able to give lessons to others. He

began to build a ship according to the English method of construction,

and it proved a prime sailor. The art of watchmaking, which was already

brought to perfection in London, next attracted his attention, and he

made himself complete master of the whole theory. Captain Perry, the

engineer, who followed him from London to Russia, says, that from the

casting of cannon, to the spinning of ropes, there was not any one

branch of trade belonging to a ship that he did not minutely observe,

and even put his hand to, as often as he came into the places where

those trades were carried on.

In order to cultivate his friendship, he was allowed to engage several

English artificers into his service, as he had done in Holland; but,

over and above artificers, he engaged likewise some mathematicians,

which he would not so easily have found in Amsterdam. Ferguson, a

Scotchman, an excellent geometrician, entered into his service, and was

the first person who brought arithmetic into use in the exchequer in

Russia, where before that time, they made use only of the Tartarian

method of reckoning, with balls strung upon a wire; a method which

supplied the place of writing, but was very perplexing and imperfect,

because, after the calculation, there was no method of proving it, in

order to discover any error. The Indian ciphers, which are now in use,

were not introduced among us till the ninth century, by Arabs; and they

did not make their way into the Russian empire till one thousand years

afterwards. Such has been the fate of the arts, to make their progress

slowly round the globe. He took with him two young students from a

mathematical school,[46] and this was the beginning of the marine

academy, founded afterwards by Peter the Great. He observed and

calculated eclipses with Ferguson. Perry, the engineer, though greatly

discontented at not being sufficiently rewarded, acknowledges, that

Peter made himself a proficient in astronomy; that he perfectly well

understood the motions of the heavenly bodies, as well as the laws of

gravitation, by which they are directed. This force, now so evidently

demonstrated, and before the time of the great Newton so little known,

by which all the planets gravitate towards each other, and which retain

them in their orbits, was already become familiar to a sovereign of

Russia, while other countries amused themselves with imaginary vertices,

and, in Galileo's nation, one set of ignorant persons ordered others, as

ignorant, to believe the earth to be immoveable.

Perry set out in order to effect a communication between rivers, to

build bridges, and construct sluices. The czar's plan was to open a

communication by means of canals between the Ocean, the Caspian, and the

Black Seas.

We must not forget to observe, that a set of English merchants, with the

marquis of Caermarthen[47] at their head, gave Peter fifteen thousand

pounds sterling, for the permission of vending tobacco in Russia. The

patriarch, by a mistaken severity, had interdicted this branch of trade;

for the Russian church forbid smoking, as an unclean and sinful action.

Peter, who knew better things, and who, amongst his many projected

changes, meditated a reformation of the church, introduced this

commodity of trade into his dominions.

Before Peter left England, he was entertained by king William with a

spectacle worthy such a guest: this was a mock sea-fight. Little was it

then imagined, that the czar would one day fight a real battle on this

element against the Swedes, and gain naval victories in the Baltic. In

fine, William made him a present of the vessel in which he used to go

over to Holland, called the Royal Transport, a beautiful yacht, and

magnificently adorned. In this vessel Peter returned to Holland the

latter end of 1698, taking with him three captains of ships of war, five

and twenty captains of merchant ships, forty lieutenants, thirty pilots,

as many surgeons, two hundred and fifty gunners, and upwards of three

hundred artificers. This little colony of persons skilful in all

branches, sailed from Holland to Archangel, on board the Royal

Transport, and from thence were distributed into all the different

places where their services were necessary. Those who had been engaged

at Amsterdam went by the way of Narva, which then belonged to the

Swedes.

While he was thus transplanting the arts and manufacture of England and

Holland into his own country, the officers, whom he had sent to Rome,

and other places in Italy, had likewise engaged some artists in his

service. General Sheremeto, who was at the head of his embassy to Italy,

took the tour of Rome, Naples, Venice, and Malta, while the czar

proceeded to Vienna with his other ambassadors. He had now only to view

the military discipline of the Germans, after having seen the English

fleets, and the dock-yards of Holland. Politics had likewise as great a

share in this journey as the desire of instruction. The emperor was his

natural ally against the Turks. Peter had a private audience of Leopold,

and the two monarchs conferred standing, to avoid the trouble of

ceremony.

There happened nothing worthy remark during his stay at Vienna, except

the celebration of the ancient feast of the landlord and landlady, which

had been disused for a considerable time, and which Leopold thought

proper to revive on the czar's account. This feast, which by the Germans

is called Wurtchafft, is celebrated in the following manner:--

The emperor is landlord and the empress landlady, the king of the

Romans, the archdukes and the archduchesses are generally their

assistants: they entertain people of all nations as their guests, who

come dressed after the most ancient fashion of their respective

countries: those who are invited to the feast, draw lots for tickets, on

each of which is written the name of the nation, and the character or

person they are to represent. One perhaps draws a ticket for a Chinese

mandarin; another for a Tartarian mirza; a third a Persian satrap; and a

fourth for a Roman senator; a princess may, by her ticket, be a

gardener's wife, or a milk-maid; a prince a peasant, or a common

soldier. Dances are composed suitable to all those characters, and the

landlord and landlady with their family wait at table. Such was the

ancient institution; but on this occasion[48] Joseph, king of the

Romans, and the countess of Traun, represented the ancient Egyptians.

The archduke Charles, and the countess of Walstein, were dressed like

Flemings in the time of Charles the Fifth. The archduchess Mary

Elizabeth and count Traun were in the habits of Tartars; the archduchess

Josephina and the count of Workslaw were habited like Persians, and the

archduchess Mariamne and prince Maximilian of Hanover in the character

of North Holland peasants. Peter appeared in the dress of a Friesland

boor, and all who spoke to him addressed him in that character, at the

same time talking to him of the great czar of Muscovy. These are

trifling particulars; but whatever revives the remembrance of ancient

manners and customs, is in some degree worthy of being recorded.

Peter was ready to set out from Vienna, in order to proceed to Venice,

to complete his tour of instruction, when he received the news of a

rebellion, which had lately broke out in his dominions.

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