Ascending the river Dwina from north to south, we travel up the country
till we come to Moscow, the capital of the empire. This city was long
the centre of the Russian dominions, before they were extended on the
side of China and Persia.
Moscow, lying in 55 degrees and a half, north latitude, in a warmer
climate, and more fruitful soil than that of Petersburg, is situated in
the midst of a large and delightful plain on the river Moskwa, and two
lesser rivers, which with the former lose themselves in the Occa, and
afterwards help to swell the stream of the Wolga. This city, in the 13th
century, was only a collection of huts inhabited by a set of miserable
wretches, oppressed by the descendants of Gengis Khan.
The Kremlin, or ancient palace of the great dukes, was not built till
the 14th century; of such modern date are cities in this part of the
world. This palace was built by Italian architects, as were several
churches in the Gothic taste which then prevailed throughout all Europe.
There are two built by the famous Aristotle, of Bologna, who flourished
in the 15th century; but the private houses were no better than wooden
huts.
The first writer who brought us acquainted with Moscow, was Olearius;
who, in 1633, went thither as the companion of an embassy from the duke
of Holstein. A native of Holstein must naturally be struck with wonder
at the immense extent of the city of Moscow, with its five quarters,
especially the magnificent one belonging to the czars, and with the
Asiatic splendour which then reigned at that court. There was nothing
equal to it in Germany at that time, nor any city by far so extensive or
well peopled.
On the contrary, the earl of Carlisle, who was ambassador from Charles
II. to the czar Alexis, in 1633, complains in his relation that he could
not meet with any one convenience of life in Moscow; no inns on the
road, nor refreshments of any kind. One judged as a German, the other as
an Englishman, and both by comparison. The Englishman was shocked to see
most of the Boyards or Muscovite noblemen, sleep upon boards or benches,
with only the skins of animals under them; but this was the ancient
practice of all nations. The houses, which were almost all built of
wood, had scarcely any furniture, few or none of their tables were
covered with cloth; there was no pavement in the streets; nothing
agreeable; nothing convenient; very few artificers, and those few
extremely awkward, and employed only in works of absolute necessity.
These people might have passed for Spartans, had they been sober.
But, on public days, the court displays all the splendour of a Persian
monarch. The earl says, he could see nothing but gold and precious
stones on the robes of the czar and his courtiers. These dresses were
not manufactured in the country; and yet, it is evident, that the people
might be rendered industrious long before that time. In the reign of the
czar Boris Godonow, the largest bell was cast at Moscow, in Europe; and
in the patriarchal church there were several ornaments in silver, worked
in a very curious manner. These pieces of workmanship, which were made
under the direction of Germans and Italians, were only transient
efforts. It is daily industry, and the continual exercise of a great
number of arts, that makes a nation flourishing. Poland, and the
neighbouring nations, were at that time very little superior to the
Russians. The handicraft trades were not in greater perfection in the
north of Germany, nor were the polite arts much better known, than in
the middle of the seventeenth century.
Though the city of Moscow, at that time, had neither the magnificence
nor arts of our great cities in Europe, yet its circumference of twenty
miles; the part called the Chinese town, where all the rarities of China
are exhibited; the spacious quarter of the Kremlin, where stood the
palace of the czars; the gilded domes, the lofty and conspicuous
turrets; and, lastly, the prodigious number of its inhabitants,
amounting to near 500,000. All this together, rendered Moscow one of the
most considerable cities in the world.
Theodore, or Foedor, eldest brother to Peter the Great, began to
improve Moscow. He ordered several large houses to be built of stone,
though without any regular architecture. He encouraged the principal
persons of his court to build, advancing them sums of money, and
furnishing them with materials. He was the first who collected studs of
fine horses, and made several useful embellishments. Peter, who was
attentive to every thing, did not neglect Moscow at the time he was
building Petersburg; for he caused it to be paved, adorned it with noble
edifices, and enriched it with manufactures; and, within these few
years, M. de Showalow, high chamberlain to the empress Elizabeth,
daughter to Peter the Great, has founded an university in this city.
This is the same person who furnished me with the memorials, from which
I have compiled the present history, and who was himself much more
capable to have done it, even in the French language, had not his great
modesty determined him to resign the task to me, as will evidently
appear from his own letters on this subject, which I have deposited in
the public library of Geneva.