WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL
=Camp Outfits. Clothing. Personal Outfits. Camp Packs. Duffel-Bags and
What to Put in Them=
To prepare your own camping outfit for the coming summer, to plan, to
work out your lists, to select materials, and make many of the things
just as you want them or even to hunt up the articles and purchase them,
while all the time delightful visions of trailing and camp life dance
before you, is to know the true joy of anticipation, and is great fun.
=Clothing=
Make your dress for the trail absolutely comfortable, not too heavy, too
tight, too hot, or too cool. No part of the clothing should bind or
draw.
Brown or dark gray are the best colors for the forest; avoid wearing
those which frighten the timid wild life, for you want to make friends
with the birds and animals, so do not wear metal buttons, buckles, or
anything that shines or sparkles.
=Underwear=
For girl campers the light-weight, pure-woollen underwear is best,
especially if you locate in the mountains, or the Canadian or Maine
forests. On cold days two light-weight union garments are warmer than
one of heavy weight. Wool is never clammy and cold, it absorbs
perspiration and when on the trail prevents the chilly feeling often
experienced when halting for a rest in the forest.
Union garments may be obtained in a variety of weights, and a one-piece
suit is the only garment necessary to wear under bloomers and middy when
at camp.
Leave corsets at home, they have no place in the outdoor life, and you
will be freer if you discard the dress skirt when at camp and on the
trail. Have your muscles free, be able to take in long, deep breaths, to
move readily all portions of your body, and not be hampered in any way
by ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothing. There must be unrestricted
freedom of arms and limbs for a girl to be able to use them easily in
climbing mountains or hills, scrambling over fallen trees, sliding over
rocks, jumping from stone to stone, or from root to half-sunken log on
wet trails of the forest.
=Stockings=
Select your stockings with care. Let them be of wool, strong, soft, and
absolutely satisfactory when the shoe is on. The aim of the entire camp
dress is to have it so comfortable and well adapted to outdoor life that
you will forget it; think no more of it than a bird does of its
feathers. When woollen stockings are worn, wet feet are not apt to give
one cold, for the feet do not become chilled even when it is necessary
to stand in the reedy edge of a mountain lake or stream. If, however,
you cannot wear wool, use cotton stockings. Remember that wool often
shrinks in the wash. Allow for this when purchasing goods, though it is
said, on reliable authority, that if laundered with care the garments
will not shrink.
When washing woollen underwear use very soapy, cool water (not icy) with
addition of a little borax, or ammonia, if you have either, and do not
rub soap directly on wool; it mats the little fibres and this causes
the wool to shrink. For the same reason avoid rubbing the garments if
possible during the cleansing process. All that is usually necessary is
to squeeze and souse them well, then rinse in water of the same
temperature; do not wring the things; squeeze them and hang them up to
dry. Changes of temperature in the water when washing wool will cause
the wool to shrink. To alternate between cold and warm, hot and lukewarm
water will surely cause the clothing to grow much smaller and stiffer;
keep both wash and rinse water either cold or lukewarm; cold is safer.
Allow no one to persuade you to take old clothes to camp; they will soon
need mending and prove a torment.
=Shoes=
Wear low-heeled, high-laced shoes of stout leather and easy fit. Make
them water-proof by giving the leather a good coat of hot, melted mutton
tallow, completely covering the shoes and working the tallow into all
crevices. Be sure to do this, as it is worse than useless to depend upon
rubber overshoes when trailing; sharp stones cut, and roots, twigs, and
underbrush tear the rubber, with the result that the overshoes soon fill
with water and your feet swim in little lakes. Test your shoes well
before taking them to camp, be perfectly satisfied that they are
comfortable and well-fitting, wear them steadily for one week or more.
It is very unwise to risk new shoes on the trail, and it is of the
utmost importance that the feet be kept in good condition. Be kind to
your feet.
=Camping Dress=
The most serviceable and practical dress for camping is a three-piece
suit, made of a fadeless, soft quality of gray or brown material.
[Illustration: DUFFEL-BAGS
LEGGIN
PONCHO
TRAILER'S BOOT
Trailers' outfits.]
The middy-blouse while loose can be well-fitting, with long sleeves
roomy enough to allow of pushing up above the elbow when desired. Sew
two small patch pockets high on the left breast--one for your watch, the
other for your compass; protect the pockets with flaps which fasten down
over the open top with dress snaps. On the right breast sew one
good-sized pocket.
In addition to these you will need one large pocket on both right and
left side of middy, below belt line, making in all three large and two
small pockets. The belt is held in place by sliding it through loops
sewed on the middy, one at the back and one on each side.
Make the skirt of this suit short enough for ease and of generous width,
not to draw at front, but give perfect freedom of the limbs. Have a seam
pocket in each side of the front breadth, and fasten the skirt down one
side from belt to hem. It can then be quickly removed and used as a cape
or a wind break when occasion requires. The bloomers, well-fitting and
comfortable, gathered below the knee with best quality of elastic, that
it may last, can have a deep pocket sewed across the front of each leg,
several inches conveniently below waist-line.
=Hat=
A soft, light-weight felt hat with brim sufficiently wide to shade the
eyes will prove the best head covering for the trail. Don't use hatpins;
your hat will cling to the head if you substitute a strip of woollen
cloth in place of the inside leather band. The clinging wool prevents
the hat from being readily knocked off by overhanging branches or blown
off on windy days.
=Check List of Apparel=
Go light when off for the woods, take with you only those things which
seem to be absolutely necessary; remember that you will carry your own
pack and be your own laundress, so hesitate about including too many
washable garments. Make out your list, then consider the matter
carefully and realize that every one of the articles, even the very
smallest, has a way of growing heavier and heavier and adding to the
ever-increasing weight of your pack the longer you walk, so be wise,
read over your list and cut it down, decide that you _can_ do without a
number of things thought at first to be indispensable.
In addition to your camp dress described, the following list forms a
basis to work upon, to be added to, taken from, or substitution made
according to location, climate, and nature of the country where you will
pitch camp:
One extra suit of wool underwear. Wash suit as
soon as changed.
One extra pair of stockings. Every morning put on
a fresh pair, washing the discarded ones the same
day.
One high-necked, long-sleeved, soft, woven
undershirt for cold days.
One extra thin middy-blouse for hot days.
Three pocket handkerchiefs, each laundered as soon
as discarded.
One kimono, soft, warm wool, buttoned down front,
not eider-down (it is too bulky), color brown or
dark gray.
One bathing-suit without skirt, made in one-piece,
loose, belted waist with bloomers; suit opened on
shoulders with strong button and buttonhole
fastenings.
One warm sweater with high turned-over collar and
sleeves good and long. On the trail carry your
sweater by tying the sleeves around your waist,
allowing the sweater to hang down at the back.
One pair of gloves, strong, pliable, easy-fitting
chamois, if you feel that you need them. The bare,
free hands are better.
One pair of strong, snug, well-fitting leggins
matching camp dress in color, with no buttons or
buckles to tangle on underbrush. The fastening can
be covered by smooth outer flap.
One pair of felt slippers or thick-soled moccasins
for tent.
Four extra strips of elastic for renewing those in
knees of bloomers.
One large, strong, soft silk or cotton
neckerchief, for protecting neck from sun, rain,
and cold, also good to fold diagonally and use for
arm sling or tie over hat in a hard wind; silk is
best.
Two head-nets if your stay is long, one if short,
to be worn in case of swarms of pestiferous flies
and mosquitoes. Especially needed for protection
from the midge, black-fly, etc., found in northern
forests and elsewhere during the spring and
through to the middle or last of July. Your net
can be of fine mesh bobbinet; if you have only
white, dye it black; all other colors are apt to
dazzle the eyes. The best material to use is black
Brussels net. Cut a strip of net long enough to
fit easily around your shoulders and allow of some
fulness. Take the measurement smoothly around the
shoulders with a piece of tape and add to this
about three-eighths of the entire length you have
just measured, which will give you the length
required. The width should be sufficient to allow
of the net reaching from base of hat crown across
over brim and down over top of shoulders, about
twenty-two inches or more in all. Cut the net
according to size needed; then fold the strip at
centre across the width, fold again, making four
even folds. Once more fold and you will have
divided the net into eight equal parts. Mark the
net at each fold and open it out (Fig. 30). Cut
armholes in the divisions marked 2 (Fig. 30) to
fit over the shoulders, sew together the two ends,
bind the shoulder armholes holding the net loosely
that it may not pull and strain. Sew an elastic to
back corner of each armhole, hem the top of net
strip and run an elastic through hem to fit snugly
on base of hat crown. Gather lower edges of net;
then try the net on, adjusting lower and upper
gathers so that the veil will blouse a little,
remembering not to let the net touch your face; if
it should, the little tormentors will bite through
and torture you. Sew a piece of black tape across
lower edge of the front and another across lower
edge of the back, fitting the tape to lie smoothly
over chest and back; then bring forward the
hanging pieces of elastic, adjust them comfortably
under the arms, and mark length of elastic to
reach around under arm and fasten with dress snaps
at front corner of armhole. Cut elastic and finish
net (Fig. 31).
_Ornaments_--Never take rings, bracelets,
necklaces, or jewelry of any kind to camp; leave
all such things at home, and with them ribbons,
beads, and ornaments of all descriptions.
[Illustration: 30
31
The head-net and blanket-roll.]
=Check List of Toilet Articles=
One comb, not silver-backed.
One hand-mirror to hang or stand up.
One tooth-brush in case.
One tube of tooth-paste, or its equivalent.
One nail-brush.
One cake of unscented toilet-soap.
Two cakes of laundry-soap.
One package of borax or securely corked bottle of
ammonia.
One tube of cold-cream.
One baking-powder can of pure, freshly "tried out"
mutton tallow, made so by boiling in pure water
until melted, then allowed to cool and harden.
When taken from the water, again melted and, while
hot, strained through a clean cloth into the can.
Good to remove pitch and balsam-gum from the
hands, to use as cold-cream to soften the hands,
and excellent to water-proof the shoes.
One wash-cloth, washed, aired, and sunned every
day. In rainy weather, washed and dried.
Two hand towels, each washed as soon as soiled.
One bath towel, washed as soon as used.
One manicure-scissors.
One package sandpaper nail-files.
Two papers of hair-pins.
One paper of common pins, also little flat pocket
pincushion well filled around edge with pins.
Two papers of large-sized safety-pins.
=Check List of Personal Camp Property=
One note-book and pencil for taking notes on wild
birds, animals, trees, etc.
One needle-case, compact with needles and strong
white and black thread, wound on cardboard reels
(spools are too bulky). Scissors, thimble, and
large-eyed tape-needle for running elastic through
hem in bloomers and head-net, when needed.
Two papers of very large sized safety-pins of
horse-blanket kind.
One roll of tape, most useful in many ways.
One whistle, the loudest and shrillest to be
found, worn on cord around the neck, for calling
help when lost or in case of need. A short, simple
system of signalling calls should be adopted.
One compass, durable and absolutely true.
One watch, inexpensive but trustworthy. Do not
take your gold watch.
One package of common post-cards, with lead pencil
attached. The postals to take the place of
letters.
One package writing-paper and stamped envelopes,
if post-cards do not meet the needs.
One pocket-knife, a big, strong one, with
substantial, sharp, strong blades, for outdoor
work and to use at meals.
One loaded camera, in case which has secure
leather loops through which your belt can be
slipped to carry camera and hold it steady,
leaving the hands free and precluding danger of
smashing the instrument should a misstep on mossy
stone or a trip over unseen vine or root suddenly
throw you down and send the camera sailing on a
distance ahead. Such an accident befell a girl
camper who was too sure that her precious camera
would be safest if carried in her hand. Wear the
camera well back that you may not fall on it
should you stumble, or the camera can be carried
on strap slung from the right shoulder.
Three or more rolls of extra films, the quantity
depending upon your length of stay at camp and the
possibilities for interesting subjects.
One fishing-rod and fishing-tackle outfit. Choose
the simple and useful rather than the fancy and
expensive. Select your outfit according to the
particular kind of fishing you will find near
camp. There is a certain different style of rod
and tackle for almost every variety of fish. If
fishing is not to be a prominent feature of the
camp, you might take line and hooks, and wait
until you reach camp to cut your fishing-pole.
One tin cup, with open handle to slide over belt.
The cup will serve you with cool sparkling water,
with cocoa, coffee, or tea as the case may be, and
it will also be your soup bowl. Keep the inside of
the cup bright and shiny. While aluminum is much
lighter than other metal, it is not advisable to
take to camp either cup, teaspoon, or fork of
aluminum because it is such a good conductor of
heat that those articles would be very apt to burn
your lips if used with hot foods.
One dinner knife, if you object to using your
pocket-knife.
One dinner fork, not silver.
One teaspoon, not silver.
One plate, may be of aluminum or tin, can be kept
bright by scouring with soap and earth.
Two warm wool double blankets, closely woven and
of good size. The U.S. Army blankets are of the
best. With safety-pins blankets can be turned into
sleeping-bags and hammocks.
One poncho, light in weight to wear over
shoulders, spread on ground rubber side down to
protect from dampness, can be used in various
ways.
One pillow-bag.
One mattress-bag.
One water-proof match-safe.
One belt hatchet in case, or belt sheath small
axe, for chopping wood and felling small trees,
but, be very careful when using either of these
tools. Before going to camp find some one who can
give you proper instructions in handling one or
both, and practise carefully following directions.
Be very _cautious_ and go slow until you become an
expert. Outdoor books and magazines should be
consulted for information, and if you do not feel
absolutely confident of your ability to use the
hatchet or axe after practising, _do not take them
with you_. For the sake of others as well as
yourself, you have not the right to take chances
of injuring either others or yourself through
inability to use safely any tool. Do not attempt
to use a regular-sized axe, it is very dangerous.
One guide told me that after a tenderfoot chopped
a cruel gash nearly through his foot when using
the guide's axe, that axe was never again loaned,
but kept in a safe place and not allowed to be
touched by any one except the owner.
=Check List for First Aid=
One hot-water bag, good for all pains and aches,
and a comfort when one is chilly.
One package pure ginger pulverized or ground, to
make hot ginger tea in case of chill, pains in the
bowels, or when you have met with an accidental
ducking or are wet through to the skin by rain.
Never mind if the tea does burn, ginger always
stings when helping one. Be a good sport, take
your medicine.
One box of charcoal tablets for dyspepsia or
indigestion.
One package bicarbonate of soda (baking-soda);
good for burns, sprinkle well with soda, see that
the burn is completely covered, then cover lightly
with cloth, and do not disturb it for a long time.
One bottle of ammonia well corked. Tie the cork
down firmly in the bottle (Fig. 32); a flannel
case or raffia covering will protect the glass
from breakage. Good to smell in case of faintness,
but care must be taken _not_ to hold it _too near_
the _nose_, as the ammonia might injure the
delicate membranes, as would also smelling-salts.
Safer to move the bottle or cloth wet with ammonia
slowly back and forth near the nose. Good also for
insect bites.
One roll of adhesive plaster. Cut into lengths for
holding covered ointment or poultice in place, the
strips criss-cross over the poultice, but are not
attached, the ends only are pressed on the bare
skin to which they firmly adhere.
Two rolls of 2-1/2 or 3 inch wide surgeon bandages
(not gauze) for general use where bandages are
needed.
One small package of absorbent cotton.
Two mustard plasters, purchased at drug store;
good for stomachache.
One package of powdered licorice to use as a
laxative. Dissolve a little licorice in water and
drink it. To keep the bowels open means to ward
off a host of evils. It is even more essential
that the inside of the body be kept clean than it
is to have the outside clean. To this end make a
practise of drinking a great deal of pure water;
drink it before breakfast, between meals (not at
meals), and before retiring. If you do this, you
will probably not need other laxative, especially
if you eat fruit either fresh or stewed. Fruit
should form part of every day's fare. _Keep your
bowels open._
One tube of Carron oil, to use for burns or
scalds.
One small bottle of camphor, for headaches.
One small bag of salt--good dissolved in water, 1
teaspoonful to 1 pint of water, for bathing tired
or inflamed eyes, often effects a cure. Good for
bathing affected spots of ivy poison, good for
sore-throat gargle, also for nosebleed; snuff,
then plug nose. Good for brushing teeth. For all
these dissolve salt in water in proportion as
given above.
One white muslin 24-inch triangular bandage, for
arm sling or chest, jaw, and head bandage. A man's
large-sized white handkerchief can be used; never
bind broken skin with colored cloth.
One bottle of fly dope, warranted to keep off
pestiferous flies and mosquitoes. All these may be
kept in one-half of a linen case of pockets, your
toilet articles in the other half, and the case
can be opened out and hung to the side of your
tent or shelter.
=Check List for General Camp=
Two basins, of light metal, paper or collapsible
rubber. The last is easy to pack and light to
carry. One basin will serve for several girls. If
you camp near a body of fresh water let that be
your basin; it will always be ready filled. No
need then to bring water to your shelter, for a
delightful dip in the river or lake every morning
before breakfast will obviate all necessity, and
do away with the otherwise needful hand-basin.
One reliable map of location and surrounding
country for constant reference.
One water-pail, light weight, for every two or
three girls. Can be canvas, aluminum, paper,
rubber, or your own selection in other materials.
Six toilet-paper packages or more.
One or more tents of water-proof material.
One or more sod cloths for tent flooring.
One or more inner tents of cheesecloth for
protection from mosquitoes, etc. These can be made
at home or purchased with the tents at the regular
camp-outfitters'. There is on the market a spray,
claimed to be absolutely effective against
mosquitoes, etc., and to keep both tent and camp
free from pests. One quart is said to last two
weeks with daily use. Cost, fifty cents per quart.
One carborundum stone for sharpening all cutting
tools.
One or more lanterns. Folding candle lanterns may
be purchased, but the simple ten-cent kind with
lamp-chimney for protection of candle are good.
They can be had at country stores in Cresco, Pa.
May possibly be found at camp-outfitters'. If a
glass chimney is to be used, pack most carefully.
Fill the inside of the chimney with stockings,
handkerchiefs, etc.; then wrap the chimney all
over with other soft clothing and tie securely.
Have this outside wrap very thick.
One package of one-half length candles to use in
lantern.
One _tin_ box of one or two dozen safety-matches.
_Tin_ will not catch fire from the matches.
One strong tool-bag with separate labelled pockets
for different tools; each pocket with flap to
fasten securely with dress snaps. In this tool-bag
put assorted nails, mostly big, strong ones,
screws, awl, well-sealed bottle of strong glue,
ball of stout twine, a few rawhide thongs, three
or four yards of soft strong rope, a pair of
scissors, two spools of wire, and several yards of
cheesecloth.
One rope--long for mountain-climbing.
=Check List of Kitchen Utensils=
Two dish-pans, one for piping-hot sudsy water for
washing dishes, the other for scalding-hot rinsing
water. The last pan can also be used for mixing
and bread-making. Select pans strong and of light
weight--canvas, aluminum, or tin--and be sure they
nest or fold.
Two water-pails, fitted one within the other, both
light weight.
One coffee-pot, size to fit in pails, must not be
too high. Cocoa can be made in the coffee-pot.
One frying-pan, for corn-dodgers, flapjacks, fried
mush, eggs, etc.
One folding camp-oven, for hot biscuits, bread
puddings, and many other good things relished by
hungry campers.
One wash-basin, to be kept strictly for washing
hands, when cooking.
One large spoon, for stirring and general use.
One kitchen-knife, suitable for cutting bread,
carving meat, turning pancakes, etc.
One kitchen-fork, strong and big, but not a
toasting-fork.
One Dutch oven pot, a strong seamless pot with
cover, to use for baking, boiling, and stewing.
Three dish-towels, washed after every meal.
One dish mop or cloth, washed and dried after each
meal; dry in sun when possible.
Four large cakes of soap.
One thick holder, for lifting pots. Hang this up
in a certain place where it may always be found
when needed.
One pepper and one salt shaker, small and light in
weight.
One net air-bag, for meat, fish, and anything that
must be kept fresh (Fig. 33) and protected from
the flies. Use strong net and two or more hoops
for the air-bag. With pincers you can twist the
two ends of strong wire together and make the
hoops of size large enough to hold the net out
away from a large piece of meat. Cut the net long
enough to stand above and hang below the meat.
Gather the top edge tightly together and sew it
fast; then sew the hoop near the top of the bag.
Other hoops on either side of centre of bag and a
hoop near bottom of bag, or sew only one hoop at
the top and one at the bottom. Have strong
draw-strings in the bottom of the bag, and fasten
a pendent hook at the top to hold the meat hanging
free inside of the bag. With copper wire attach a
good-sized ring on top of the bag, wire it through
the handle of the pendent hook and weld them
together. When in use, the bag should be suspended
high from the ground by means of a rope pulley run
through the top ring and over the limb of a
near-by tree. Similar air-bags can be obtained, if
desired, from camp-outfitters.
When selecting cooking utensils for the camp, you will find those with
detachable handles pack better and for that reason are desirable.
Do not forget that every check-list given may be reduced; don't think
you must include all the items. For these lists give outfits for
permanent as well as temporary camps. If you can manage with _one towel_
by washing it every day, or evening, allowing it to dry during the
night, one towel will be sufficient; leave the others at home. Drop
from the various lists every article you can possibly dispense with and
still be comfortable in camp.
If you wear the camp suit travelling from home to camp, its weight and
bulk will be omitted from your camp pack, and be so much to your gain,
and you will maintain a good appearance notwithstanding, for if well
made and of proper fit the dress will be a suitable travelling costume.
=Camp Packs=
When you intend carrying your belongings and striking the trail either
part or all the way to camp, the easiest method for portage is to stow
the things in a regular pack and fasten the pack on your back by means
of strong, long straps attached to the pack, and passed over your
shoulders and under your arms.
A square of water-proof canvas makes a simple and good camp pack. Get a
nine-by-nine-feet (more or less) square of cloth, and it will be found
useful as shelter, fly, ground-cloth, windbreak, and in other ways after
reaching camp.
=What to Put in Your Pack=
Open out your pack-cloth flat on the floor, and place your folded
mattress-bag in the centre.
Fill the pillow-bag with your first-aid case and case of toilet
articles, and if there is space for other things pack them in. Lay the
pillow-bag on top of the mattress-bag, place clothing by the side and on
top of the pillow-bag, being careful to keep the contents of your pack
rectangular in shape and of size to fit well over your back.
[Illustration: 32
CAMP PACK
BLANKET PACK
33
PACK-HARNESS
MEAT SAFE
Some things to carry and how to carry them.]
If not adding too much to the weight, include many things from your
personal-belonging list; of these articles you can carry some in the
pockets of your camp suit. Everything being in the pack, fold over the
sides and ends, making a neat, compact bundle; tie it securely with a
piece of soft rope and across its top place the blankets with poncho
inside, which you have previously made into a roll to fit. Bind pack and
blankets together, attach the pack shoulder-strap and swing the pack on
your back.
Pack straps or harness can be obtained at any camp-outfitter's.
A different style of pack may be a bag with square corners, all seams
strongly stitched, then bound with strong tape. Cut two pieces of the
water-proof cloth, one about sixteen inches wide, and the other eighteen
inches; this last is for the front and allows more space. Let each piece
be twenty-one inches long or longer, unite them with a strip of the
cloth six inches wide and sufficiently long to allow of flaps extending
free at the top to fold over from both sides across the opening; you
will then have a box-like bag. Make one large flap of width to fit the
top of the back, and length to cross over on front, covering the smaller
flaps and fastening down on the outside of the front of the pack. All
three flaps may have pockets to hold small articles.
The shoulder-straps may be either of strong government webbing which
comes for the purpose, tube lamp-wick, or leather.
With this pack the blanket and poncho could be made into a thin roll and
fitted around the edges of the pack, or made into a short roll and
attached to top of pack.
When feasible it is a good plan to pack your smaller belongings in
wall-pockets with divisions protected by flaps securely fastened over
the open ends, the wall-pockets rolled, tied, and carried in the camp
pack. These pockets are useful at camp; they help to keep your things
where you can find them. Next best is to use small separate labelled
bags for different variety of duffel, and pack them in one or two duffel
tube-shaped bags, which may be bound together, constituting one pack.
From eighteen to twenty-four pounds is average weight for a girl to
carry; it all depends upon strength and endurance; some girls can carry
even heavier packs, while others must have lighter ones. Beware about
loading yourself down too heavily. Packs grow heavier and heavier, never
lighter on the trail.
=Blanket-Roll Pack=
Side-trips from camp for only one night's bivouac will not need a back
pack; the few articles required can be carried in your blanket-roll.
Spread the poncho out flat, rubber side down, then your blankets on top,
and group the things you intend to take into two separate oblong groups,
one on each side of the central space at one end of the blankets; push
the articles in each division closely together, leaving the space
between the divisions empty. Kneel in front of your blankets and begin
to roll all together tightly, taking care not to allow any of the duffel
to fall out. When the roll is complete, tie the centre with strong, soft
string, and also each end, and make a hoop of the roll by tying together
the hanging strings on the two ends. Wear the blanket-roll over left
shoulder, diagonally across back and chest to rest over right hip. If
you have forgotten a few items, tie the things to the bottom of the
blanket-roll and let them hang like tassels.
=Duffel-Bag=
Articles for general use while at camp can be packed together in one or
more duffel-bags; if but one bag is needed, provisions might go in the
same receptacle when space and weight permit. It is much better,
however, to have a separate bag for provisions.
=Packing Provisions=
You can make or buy separate tube bags of different heights, but all of
the same diameter, and pack flour in one, corn-meal in another, and so
on, having each bag labelled and all, when filled, fitted in one
duffel-bag; you will find these bags a great comfort. They should be of
water-proof canvas with draw-string at the top. You can purchase
friction-top cans for butter, etc., of varying depth to accommodate
different quantities which will fit well in the large provision bag.
A duffel-bag is usually made cylindrical in form with a disk of the
cloth sewed in tight at one end, and the other end closed with
draw-strings. It is well to have another cloth disk attached to one spot
at the top of the bag, to cover the contents before the draw-strings are
fastened.
A great variety of desirable camp packs, including duffel-bags,
pack-straps, harness, and tump-lines, may be purchased at the
camp-outfitter's; investigate before deciding upon home-made camp packs.
Pack-baskets can also be obtained, but all the good-sized pack-baskets I
have seen, while attractive in appearance, are too rigid, bulky,
sharp-edged, and heavy to be of use to girl campers.
Having decided that the wilderness is the place to locate, unless you
can manage to camp with very little in the way of extra packs, you will
be obliged to employ a guide to assist in the carry, possibly two
guides, as wilderness trails do not permit of a vehicle, or even a mule
or horse, being used to help in the portage.
Should your camp be on a more accessible site, the easy portage can be
taken advantage of and the problem readily solved; but the charm of the
real forest camp with all its possibilities for genuine life in the
wilderness more, far more, than compensates for the extra difficulties
in reaching camp. Really, though, the very difficulties are but part of
the sport; they give zest and add to the fun of the trail.