CHAPTER VI.

Guano, Nitrate, and Railways being recognised as the prime sources

of Peruvian greatness, and these having been noticed with no scant

justice, another matter remains for examination, which may be said

to surpass all the others in importance, albeit it is not so easy to

estimate or understand.

Granted that Peru has all the physical elements of a great

nation,--such as gold and silver, copper and iron, and coal, oil and

wine, a vast line of sea-coast with numerous safe bays and ports,

rivers for internal navigation, as well as railroads,--has she the

moral qualities to develop these riches and make the best use of them?

In plain words, has Peru ceased to be a hotbed of revolution? is there

any hope that the ruling classes of the Peruvian people will become

sober, industrious, thrifty, honest, just and right in all their

dealings, and cease to be a source of anxiety and disgust to their

present and future creditors?

These may be said to be momentous questions, and not to be lightly

answered. Any answer not founded on well-ascertained facts and

indisputable knowledge should be set aside as vexatious and frivolous.

A hasty answer, or one founded on aught else, could only be conceived

in malice or prompted by motives of self-interest. It has, for example,

during the past few months been comparatively easy to a portion of

the London press to defame the character of Peru; to find reasons why

its bonds should be held only as waste paper, and even to prove to the

satisfaction of its fond and eager readers that she is in an utterly

bankrupt state. The same accomplished writers, if it suited their

purpose, could as easily prove, with their eloquent persuasiveness,

that Peru after all is, in commercial phraseology, sound; she had

never yet failed in keeping faith with her English friends, and is too

enlightened to think of doing so now. True, she is in debt; but she

can pay handsomely, and, in the powerful rhetoric of Bassanio, would

encourage money-lenders and her private friends thus:--

'In my school days, when I had lost one shaft,

I shot his fellow of the self-same flight

The self-same way with more advised watch,

To find the other forth, and by adventuring both

I oft found both. I urge this childhood proof,

Because what follows is pure innocence.

I owe you much, and, like a wilful youth,

That which I owe is lost; but if you please

To shoot another arrow that self way

Which you did shoot the first, I do not doubt

As I will watch the aim, or to find both

Or bring your latter hazard back again

And thankfully rest debtor for the first.'

But not thus will our serious questions meet with satisfactory answers.

The first thing to be noted in the enquiry, perhaps, is that it is

altogether a misnomer to call Peru a Republic. Whatever else it be,

a Republic it certainly is not, and never has been a Republic. Its

political constitution and its laws have nothing whatever to do with

the people, nor have the people aught to do with them; and they care

for them as they care for the theory of gravitation, or any other

portion of demonstrable knowledge, from which they may indeed derive

some animal comfort in its application, but the application of which

will probably never enlighten their souls. The people of Peru know as

much of liberty as they know of the Virgin Mary. The priests once or

twice a year dress the image of the Jewish maiden in tawdry attire,

put a tinsel crown on her head, and call her the Mother of God and the

Queen of Heaven, and the people fall down and worship; which they are

perfectly at liberty to do, as the impostors who lead them to do so may

get their living in that way, as all other impostors obtain theirs who

possess the people's grace. In like fashion, all that the people know

of liberty they know thus. They know as much of it as an aristocrat

cares to teach them--as a quack can tell his patient of medicine,

or the showy proprietress of a showy school can teach an intelligent

girl the use of the globes. All native-born Peruvians of full age have

votes, at least all such as can read and write, or possess a certain

amount of real property. But reading and writing are not by any means

universal accomplishments in the Peruvian Republic, and there are fewer

holders of real estate among the working classes than maybe found in

Barbados among the coloured labourers of that beautiful but misgoverned

island.

Don Juan Espinosa, an old Peruvian soldier, and one of the few South

American writers whose literary works have been translated into

French, if not also into English, wrote some twenty years ago a

republican, democratic, moral, political, and philosophical dictionary

for the people. Strange to say, he has given us no definition of a

Republic in his highly-entertaining and instructive book. Two of his

longest articles, however, are devoted, the first to the subject of

'Independence,' and the second to 'Revolution.' The manner in which the

author concludes the first is suggestive: 'On one day,' he says, 'we

were all brothers and countrymen; brothers by blood, and countrymen of

a land which we had just irrigated with our blood. O day immortal for

humanity! On this day the Saviour of the world beheld the consummation

of his work; he saw the spectacle which years before had led the way

for 1824. He without doubt designed the camp of AYACUCHO as the first

embrace of all the races, and the signal also for the suppression of

all human rivalries. Afterwards'

______________________________________________________

A long, broad black line stretches across the page as if to put it in

mourning.

'A revolution in substance,' he says, 'is nothing more than the

organisation of a people's discontent.'

If that be so, there has never been a revolution in Peru; a statement

which will be doubted by nearly all who hear it for the first time. We

may perhaps make an exception in the revolution which made Col. Prado

dictator of Peru in November, 1865. No doubt the enthusiasm of the

Peruvian people for going to war with Spain was genuine, and Prado,

not at all a man of revolutionary tastes, easily overthrew Canseco,

because of his Spanish tendencies. Prado was subsequently elected

President in 1867, but was overthrown by Balta and Canseco the year

following, and Colonel (now General) Prado fled to Chile for his life.

Still, let us be thankful that we can find one authentic instance of

Peruvian patriotism in the course of fifty years, and that out of the

hundreds of revolutions which have occurred, one was for the good of

the country--and most certainly to its honour.

The anniversary of the 2nd of May, 1866, is kept with pride by every

loyal Peruvian in all parts of the world, wherever one may find

himself. Had there been among the Peruvian soldiers on that day as much

knowledge of gunnery as there was of personal valour, not more than one

or two ships of the Spanish fleet which bombarded Callao had escaped

destruction.

It has been contended by a few anxious Peruvians that the revolution

made by General Castilla, in 1854, against General Echenique was also

a popular revolution. Perhaps it was. Echenique was notoriously very

fond of money, and it is said that so freely did he help himself to

the proceeds of the public guano that the people rose against him,

flocked to the standard of Castilla, whom they kept in power for twelve

years, and sent Echenique into ignoble exile. If that could be proved

in favour of the Peruvian people, it should be done at once. But no one

from sheer laughter can discuss the question. Castilla was as fond of

money as Echenique; Castilla, however, did one or two liberal things;

he liberated the slaves, and abolished the poll-tax, and in that sense

the revolution of 1854 may be said to have been a popular one.

No Peruvian who supported those two famous acts of General Castilla's

Government looks back upon them with anything but bitter regret. The

negro slaves were well off--they were, moreover, a people with much

affection for their masters, and slavery existed only in name. When

the blacks, however, were 'liberated,' they became like a mob of mules

without burdens, without guide or master, and they wandered about the

earth and died miserably. Those who survived were certainly very little

credit to their friends, for many of them became the terror of the

highways which converge on the capital of the Republic.

The Indians who paid the poll-tax did then do some work, and they were

made to feel some of the responsibilities of being republicans--they

were kept under rule--they could be induced to labour in 'some of the

richest silver mines in the world.' Now they will do nothing of the

kind, and the Government has not only lost an income of 2,000,000

dols. a year, they have lost the services of the entire indigenous

population, which may be called, in classical language, a pretty kettle

of fish, especially for a country whose riches depend upon the industry

of a free and happy people.

One immediate consequence of Castilla's emancipation policy was that it

speedily became a profitable business for a few adventurous persons in

Lima to proceed to China, where they kidnapped some of the superfluous

Chinese population. This traffic prospered for a while, but as it is

the property of murder to make itself known--somehow or anyhow--the

profits fell off, owing to the interference of one or two civilised

Governments. When the Celestial Empire no longer offered a safe field

for the Peruvian men-snatchers, attempts were made on the inoffensive

people of the diocese of modern evangelisation, and in the course of

time the rich people of Lima had the opportunity of buying a few men,

women, and girls, who had been stolen from some of the islands of the

Pacific. But these for some mysterious reasons died off, after having

cost the Peruvian Government a serious sum of money, and some people

their reputation. It was, however, imperatively necessary, owing to

the demands of the British farmer for guano, and the exigences of the

Government of Peru to obtain men from China somehow for the important

work of shovelling Peruvian dung into European ships; and there may

be reckoned to-day among the motley population of the Republic not

less than 60,000 men who cultivate sugar and pig-tails, and indulge in

opium. This, therefore, might be called a popular revolution, and the

friends of General Castilla can claim for him the honour and glory of

having brought it about.

General Castilla deserves to be better known; but this is not the

place to speak of him at any length. He introduced a new era into

Peruvian politics--he was the first native Peruvian with no Spanish

blood in his veins who assumed supreme power. If there had been no

guano to demoralise everybody, himself included, Castilla might have

become a great man, and the Peruvian people been lifted up by him in

the scale of humanity. As it is, Castilla and everybody else fulfilled

the prediction of the Hebrew prophet in a manner that might be stated

in Spanish, but which no gentleman can write in English. It should

be stated that although Castilla had nothing of Spanish blood in his

veins, yet his father was an Italian, and his mother one of the pure

Indian women of Moquegua.

All this, however, does not help us to answer the momentous questions

with which this chapter opens.--If Peru is not a Republic, and there

have not been more than two revolutions in the whole of its wild and

chequered history, what is it?

Peru is a Republic in name, 'governed' or rather farmed by groups or

families of despots, who frequently quarrel among themselves, cut each

other's throats, and alternately embrace and kiss each other, in a

manner that is sickening to any one who is not a moral eunuch[14]. Only

those who are rich enough to escape to Chile are saved from the above

gentle process. General Prado is one of these favoured Peruvians. Had

not Don Manuel Pardo, the late President, fled from Lima during the

revolting days of the Gutierrez terror, he too would have gone the way

of all flesh and Peruvian political farmers.

The people of Peru, those who are to be distinguished from the

families who farm them, are hard-working, industrious, sober, ignorant,

excitable and superstitious. They are fond of serving their masters,

they like to be called 'children' by the great Colonels, the great

sugar-boilers, and all who ride on horses and live, even though it be

at other people's expense, in great houses.

The Peruvian dictionary already quoted from, though it does not contain

the word Republic, does contain the history of Peru. Let us turn to the

article 'Liberty.'

'LA LIBERTAD,' says our brave soldier author, 'does not consist,

civilly or socially speaking, in each one doing what he likes. By thus

understanding liberty some governments have fallen, and some people

have lost what they had gained.

'Liberty consists in each one having the power to do, at all events,

that which the law has not forbidden, in not damaging another in his

rights, or property, or in his moral and material well-being.

'That society is not free while any of its members are unable to

express their thoughts without hinderance.

'That society is not free when one or more of its industries are

prohibited under the pretext of monopoly or privilege.

'It is not free when it cares not, or is unable to arraign a lying

magistrate.

'That society is not free which does not possess political morality.

This consists in--

'I. Keeping the treaties and covenants made with other nations.

'II. In submitting to the law without its ever supposing itself

entitled to falsify it by cunning arts, or paltry subterfuge.

'III. In holding up to scorn whatever crime affects the national

honour.

'IV. In not corrupting its institutions for personal considerations.

A people will find it very difficult to maintain its freedom, which is

without sufficient spirit to provide itself with good institutions, and

afterwards ready to put so much faith in them, that it will become a

religious duty rigorously to support them.

'By what right does Spanish-America call itself republican, if it has

not renounced the custom of a despotic monarchical absolutism?

'These unhappy people have given themselves very liberal laws, and

have afterwards abandoned them at the caprice of men without having the

least faith in their own institutions.

'How can they thus hope to be free?

'It costs nothing, nor is it of any value to shout LIBERTY, LIBERTY.

But that which is of great price, and can never be too costly, is to

acquire liberty by means of good manners, by the custom of respecting

the law and making it respected, by respecting the rights of others,

and making them respected by all; to be just with all the world, and

ashamed of every evil act. Behold, how liberty is to be acquired. In

fine, liberty is the health of the soul, and he cannot be free who has

not a healthy conscience.'

'The greater number of our liberals,' he adds in another place, with

one of his happiest flashes of poetic truth, of which the book is full,

'the greater number of our liberals are like musical instruments which

do not retain the sound they give when played upon,' i. e. they are

cracked.

Let it be added, that this soldier of the sword and of the pen who

fought and bled on the field of battle for Peruvian civil liberty,

and sighed, and cried in peaceful days for a freedom still greater

and better, died poor and neglected. The present Peruvian Government

sought all over Lima for complete copies of his works to send to

Philadelphia, but it allows those whom he has left behind him, and who

bear his name, to languish in obscurity and in want; and Don Manuel

Pardo and his ministers, good in many things though they may be, are in

others nothing better than cracked musical instruments. Peru is only

a Republic in name, liberty does not exist, its people are not free,

and the country remains at the mercy of men who at any moment, and in

the most unexpected manner, can turn it into a hotbed of what is called

revolution.

A revolution is expected now. The man whose administration designed and

carried through one of the 'railways of the age,' the personal friend

of Meiggs, who had taken anarchy captive in an iron net, was shortly

afterwards in the most cowardly, brutal, and unexpected way first made

prisoner, while he was yet President, and then murdered in his jail.

Great as is the love of the common people for their superiors, they are

not to be relied upon in days of great excitement, and when there is

abundance of loose change flying about. How could it be otherwise?

How often do ministers and public men meet the people in common? Never,

except in a religious procession carrying an enormous wax candle a yard

long, and as thick as a rolling-pin, or at the Theatre on el dos de

Mayo, and not then unless there has been some pleasant news announced

the day before.

How often are the people enlightened by a clear and straightforward

statement of the public accounts? Never. Does not the free press of

Lima support the Government, or now and then criticise its acts in the

interest of the people? The answer is that there is no free press in

Lima.

No plan of the Government is ever made known until it has been

accomplished. Everything is done in secret and underground. Rumour

is the great agent of the Government and mystery its chief force.

So mysterious are the ways of the Executive that itself is not

unfrequently a mystery to itself. No Peruvian Government has ever had

the courage to take the people into its confidence, and the people

are too busy with their own personal affairs to think of, much less to

resent, the slight.

In other matters the press is busy enough. Some of the most biting

criticisms on priests, on auricular confession, on the infallibility

of the Pope and the Immaculate Conception have appeared in the Lima

press. Their teachers, in brief, have ridiculed the gods of the people

and given them none to adore. No intellectual society in Lima associate

with priests. No priest is ever seen in the houses of the rich, or the

respectable poor.

Freemasonry is the fashionable religion of men, and men who never go

to mass will frequent a lodge twice a week. Only the other day one of

these lodges published an advertisement in the leading journal to the

effect that a gold medal would be conferred on any brother mason who

would adopt the orphan child of any who had died fighting against any

form of tyranny, and the medal is to be worn as a badge of honour on

the person of the owner. Freemasonry in Peru is an open menace of the

Church, which with all deference to the craft, may be called a gross

mistake. But Peruvian Freemasonry is like Peruvian Republicanism,

chiefly a thing of show, and something to talk about by men who can

talk of nothing else.

After all this it should not be difficult to answer the questions with

which this chapter opens.

But lest it should be thought that the greater part of these statements

is pure rhetoric, or mere private opinion, and not stubborn facts, let

us now ask two questions more.

What use has Peru made of the great income it has derived during the

past generation, from the national guano? What is there to show for the

many million pounds sterling it has derived from this source, and from

money lent by English bondholders?

Let us hasten at once to acknowledge that it has spent 150,000,000

dols. in railways. But let us also add that the greatest authority in

Peru has stigmatised these railways as _locuras_, or follies. This is

not an encouraging beginning. But alas it is not only the beginning, it

is also the end of the account.

There is nothing else to be seen. There is not a single lighthouse or

light on any dangerous rock, or at any port difficult to make along the

whole of its coast. All the fructifying rivers of the hills still steal

into the sea. Had half the money which has been spent on the Oroya

railway been expended on works of irrigation, the Government of Peru

would now be in the possession of a respectable revenue.

A morning visit to the market-place in Lima on any day of the week, is

enough to convince even a Peruvian President who knows something else

besides how to play rocambor, of the truth of this statement.

Internal roads, excepting these 'railways of the age,' there are none;

but there are several ironclads and men-of-war in the Bay of Callao,

for what use or of what service the First Lord of the Admiralty himself

could not tell explicitly.

It might be thought by some ordinary people, of business habits and a

little reflection, that a country like Peru, which can boast of as many

seaports as it can of first-class towns and cities, would provide those

ports with convenient landing-places, moles, or piers.

There is one good pier on the whole coast, which in its useless

grandeur stretches out nearly a mile into the sea; as the Oroya

railway, like a mighty python, creeps up the precipitous slopes of the

Andes 'sixteen thousand feet above the level of the sea.'

As every one knows, the Pacific is a peaceful sea, as quiet as a saucer

of milk. But like almost all the things that every one knows, this

piece of knowledge will hardly bear the test of experience. Twenty

miles or less from its shore, the Pacific on the Peruvian coast, may

be said to be as calm and placid as a man's unresisted vices. Put a

restraint upon, or raise a barrier against the most modest of the man's

wishes, and these suddenly show their strength, even the strength, as

some have found to their cost, of resistless passion. It is thus with

this Pacific sea. When it comes against a rocky shore, or the miserable

wooden barriers which the Peruvian Government have put up for the

convenience and comfort of passengers, and the despatch of business,

it becomes more like a wild beast, or a watery volcano, or any other

fierce and angry force which cannot by ordinary means be restrained. It

is not unlikely that a Government fond of providing cheap distraction

for the people has purposely neglected this useful work of building

piers, with the benevolent design of providing a cheap amusement to

those inhabitants of the ports who do not travel by sea.

It is such fun to see a lady dressed in pink satin and blue silk

boots get a sudden ducking in salt water, or to watch in safety from

the shore a boat full of anxious and highly dressed colonels and

sugar-boilers, editors and lawyers, get drenched to the skin, and

almost robbed of their breath, in trying to effect a landing at Islay,

or Mollendo, Iquique, or Chala, or even Callao.

If any of the readers of this brief but eventful history would desire

to see the Peruvian Republic as in a microcosm, let them arrive at

the latter chief port of the nation in a steamer, or a cattle ship,

as a passenger steamer may now be called. They will see an exhibition

of confusion, extortion, bullying, insolence, cruelty, and official

imbecility, which cannot be equalled in any other part of the civilised

or uncivilised world, including New Guinea or Eragomanga. And as it

is now, so it was twenty years ago. A steamer, the European mail for

example, drops its anchor about two miles from the shore. It is then

surrounded by a hundred small boats, each containing two, sometimes

more, coloured men. The screaming, gesticulating, and brutal language

of these creatures defy description. The authorities have no control

over them, the captain of the steamer is powerless against the invasion

of his ship, and all passengers who have no friends, who know nothing

of the country and cannot speak Spanish, are placed at the mercy of

this swarm of harpies.

Here you have an epitome of Peru. Gentlemen and rogues jostling one

another in painful contiguity. Gentlewomen and their opposite, men who

work and scoundrels who prey upon other people's labour, priests and

colonels, knowledge and ignorance, in some form or other brought in

violent collision: the utmost freedom of opinion and nobody to keep the

peace!

FOOTNOTE:

[14] _Estratocracia_ I find is the technical term by

which Espinosa would designate the Government of Peru or

a government by the military. This would seem to be true,

seeing that since Peru became a Republic all its Presidents

with only one exception have been Colonels, Generals, and

End of Project Gutenberg's Peru in the Guano Age, by Alexander James Duffield

Peru in the Guano Age Being a Short Account of a Recent Visit to the Guano Deposits, with Some Reflections on the Money They Have Produced and the Uses to Which It Has Been Applied · 第 6 / 6 章