First night in Atuona valley; sensational arrival of the Golden Bed;
Titi-huti's tattooed legs.
It was necessary to find at once a residence for my contemplated
stay in Atuona, for the schooner sailed on the morrow, and my brief
glimpse of the Marquesans had whetted my desire to live among them.
I would not accept the courteous invitation of the governor to stay
at the palace, for officialdom never knows its surroundings, and
grandeur makes for no confidence from the lowly.
Lam Kai Oo, an aged Chinaman whom I encountered at the trader's
store, came eagerly to my rescue with an offered lease of his
deserted store and bakeshop. From Canton he had been brought in
his youth by the labor bosses of western America to help build the
transcontinental railway, and later another agency had set him down
in Taha-Uka to grow cotton for John Hart. He saw the destruction of
that plantation, escaped the plague of opium, and with his scant
savings made himself a petty merchant in Atuona. Now he was old and
had retired up the valley to the home he had long established there
beside his copra furnace and his shrine of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
He led me to the abandoned shack, a long room, tumbledown, moist,
festooned with cobwebs, the counters and benches black with
reminiscences of twenty thousand tradings and Chinese meals. The
windows were but half a dozen bars, and the heavy vapors of a cruel
past hung about the sombre walls. Though opium had long been
contraband, its acrid odor permeated the worn furnishings. Here with
some misgivings I prepared to spend my second night in Hiva-oa.
I left the palace late, and found the shack by its location next the
river on the main road. Midnight had come, no creature stirred as I
opened the door. The few stars in the black velvet pall of the sky
seemed to ray out positive darkness, and the spirit of Po, the
Marquesan god of evil, breathed from the unseen, shuddering forest.
I tried to damn my mood, but found no profanity utterable. Rain
began to fall, and I pushed into the den.
A glimpse of the dismal interior did not cheer me. I locked the door
with the great iron key, spread my mat, and blew out the lantern.
Soon from out the huge brick oven where for decades Lam Kai Oo had
baked his bread there stole scratching, whispering forms that slid
along the slippery floor and leaped about the seats where many long
since dead had sat. I lay quiet with a will to sleep, but the hair
stirred on my scalp.
The darkness was incredible, burdensome, like a weight. The sound of
the wind and the rain in the breadfruit forest and the low roar of
the torrent became only part of the silence in which those invisible
presences crept and rustled. Try as I would I could recall no good
deed of mine to shine for me in that shrouded confine. The Celtic
vision of my forefathers, that strange mixture of the terrors of
Druid and soggarth, danced on the creaking floor, and witch-lights
gleamed on ceiling and timbers. I thought to dissolve it all with a
match, but whether all awake or partly asleep, I had no strength to
reach it.
Then something clammily touched my face, and with a bound I had the
lantern going. No living thing moved in the circle of its rays. My
flesh crawled on my bones, and sitting upright on my mat I chanted
aloud from the Bible in French with Tahitian parallels. The glow of
a pipe and the solace of tobacco aided the rhythm of the prophets in
dispelling the ghosts of the gloom, but never shipwrecked mariner
greeted the dawn with greater joy than I.
In its pale light I peered through the barred windows--the windows
of the Chinese the world over--and saw four men who had set down a
coffin to rest themselves and smoke a cigarette. They sat on the
rude box covered with a black cloth and passed the pandanus-wrapped
tobacco about. Naked, except for loin-cloths, their tawny skins
gleaming wet in the gray light, rings of tattooing about their eyes,
they made a strange picture against the jungle growth.
They were without fire for they had got into a deep place crossing
the stream and had wet their matches. I handed a box through the bars,
and by reckless use of the few words of Marquesan I recalled, and
bits of French they knew, helped out by scraps of Spanish one had
gained from the Chilean murderer who milked the cows for the German
trader, I learned that the corpse was that of a woman of sixty years,
whose agonies had been soothed by the ritual of the Catholic church.
The bearers were taking her to Calvary cemetery on the hill.
Their cigarettes smoked, they rose and took up the long poles on
which the coffin was swung. Moving with the tread of panthers, firm,
noiseless, and graceful, they disappeared into the forest and I was
left alone with the morning sun and the glistening leaves of the
rain-wet breadfruit-trees.
On the beach an hour later I met Gedge, who asked me with a
quizzical eye how I had enjoyed my first night among the Kanakas. I
replied that I had seldom passed such a night, spoke glowingly of
the forest and the stream, and said that I was still determined to
remain behind when the schooner sailed.
"Well, if you will stay," said he, and the trader's look came into
his eye, "I've got just the thing you want. You don't want to lie
on a mat where the thousand-legs can get you--and if they get you,
you die. You want to live right. Now listen to me; I got the best
brass bed ever a king slept on. Double thickness, heavy brass bed,
looks like solid gold. Springs that would hold the schooner,
double-thick mattress, sheets and pillows all embroidered like it
belonged to a duchess. Fellow was going to be married that I brought
it for, but now he's lying up there in Calvary in a bed they dug for
him. I'll let you have it cheap--three hundred francs. It's worth
double. What do you say?"
A brass bed, a golden bed in the cannibal islands!
"It's a go," I said.
On the deck of the _Morning Star_ I beheld the packing-cases brought
up from the hold, and my new purchase with all its parts and
appurtenances loaded in a ship's boat, with the iron box that held
my gold. So I arrived in Atuona for the second time, high astride the
sewed-up mattress on top of the metal parts, and so deftly did the
Tahitians handle the oars that, though we rode the surf right up to
the creeping jungle flowers that met the tide on Atuona beach, I was
not wet except by spray.
[Illustration: Vai Etienne]
[Illustration: The pool by the Queen's house]
Our arrival was watched by a score of Marquesan chiefs who had been
summoned by Bauda for the purpose, as he told me, of being urged to
thrash the tax-tree more vigorously. The meeting adjourned instantly,
and they hastened down from the frame building that housed the
government offices. Their curiosity could not be restrained. A score
of eager hands stripped the coverings from the brass bed, and
exposed the glittering head and foot pieces in the brilliant sunlight.
Exclamations of amazement and delight greeted the marvel. This was
another wonder from the white men's isles, indicative of wealth and
royal taste.
From all sides other natives came hastening. My brass bed and I were
the center of a gesticulating circle, dark eyes rolled with
excitement and naked shoulder jostled shoulder. Three chiefs,
tattooed and haughty, personally erected the bed, and when I
disclosed the purpose of the mattress, placed it in position. Every
woman present now pushed forward and begged the favor of being
allowed to bounce upon it. It became a diversion attended with high
honor. Controversies meantime raged about the bed. Many voices
estimated the number of mats that would be necessary to equal the
thickness of the mattress, but none found a comparison worthy of its
softness and elasticity.
In the midst of this mêlée one woman, whose eyes and facial contour
betrayed Chinese blood, but who was very comely and neat, pushed
forward and pointing to the glittering center of attraction repeated
over and over.
"_Kisskisskissa? Kisskisskissa?_"
For awhile I was disposed to credit her with a sudden affection for
me, but soon resolved her query into the French "Qu'est-ce que c'est
que ca? What is that?"
She was Apporo, wife of Puhei, Great Fern, she said, and she owned a
house in which her father, a Chinaman, had recently died. This house
she earnestly desired to give me in exchange for the golden bed, and
we struck a bargain. I was to live in the house of Apporo and, on
departing, to leave her the bed. Great Fern, her husband, was called
to seal the compact. He was a giant in stature, dark skinned, with a
serene countenance and crisp hair. They agreed to clean the house
thoroughly and to give me possession at once.
They were really mad to have the bed, in all its shiny golden beauty,
and once the arrangement was made they could hardly give over
examining it, crawling beneath it, smoothing the mattress and
fingering the springs. They shook it, poked it, patted it, and
finally Apporo, filled with feminine pride, arrogated to herself the
sole privilege of bouncing upon it.
Lam Kai Oo wailed his loss of a tenant.
"You savee thlat house belong lep'," he argued earnestly. "My sto'e
littee dirty, but I fixum. You go thlat lep' house, bimeby flinger
dlop, toe dlop, nose he go." He grimaced frightfully, and indicated
in pantomime the ravages of leprosy upon the human form.
His appeal was in vain. The Golden Bed, upraised on the shoulders of
four stalwart chiefs, began its triumphal progress up the valley road.
Behind it officiously walked Exploding Eggs, puffed up with
importance, regarded on all sides with respect as _Tueni Oki Kiki_,
Keeper of the Golden Bed, but jostled for position by Apporo, envied
of women. Behind them up the rough road hastened the rest of the
village, eager to see the installation of the marvel in its new
quarters, and I followed the barbaric procession leisurely.
My new residence was a mile from the beach, and off the main
thoroughfare, though this mattered little. The roads built decades
ago by the French are so ruined and neglected that not a thousand
feet of them remain in all the islands. No wheel supports a vehicle,
not even a wheelbarrow. Trails thread the valleys and climb the hills,
and traffic is by horse and human.
My Golden Bed, lurching precariously in the narrow path, led me
through tangled jungle growth to the first sight of my new home, a
small house painted bright blue and roofed with corrugated iron. Set
in the midst of the forest, it was raised from the ground on a
_paepae_, a great platform made of basalt stones, black, smooth
and big, the very flesh of the Marquesas Islands. Every house built
by a native since their time began has been set on a _paepae_, and
mine had been erected in days beyond the memory of any living man.
It was fifty feet broad and as long, raised eight feet from the earth,
which was reached by worn steps.
Above the small blue-walled house the rocky peak of Temetiu rose
steeply, four thousand feet into the air, its lower reaches clothed
in jungle-vines, and trees, its summit dark green under a clear sky,
but black when the sun was hidden. Most of the hours of the day it
was but a dim shadow above a belt of white clouds, but up to its
mysterious heights a broken ridge climbed sheer from the valley, and
upon it browsed the wild boar and the crag-loving goat.
Beside the house the river brawled through a greenwood of
bread-fruit-, cocoanut-, vi-apple-, mango- and lime-trees. The
tropical heat distilled from their leaves a drowsy woodland odor
which filled the two small whitewashed rooms, and the shadows of the
trees, falling through the wide unglassed windows, made a sun-flecked
pattern on the black stone floor. This was the House of Lepers, now
rechristened the House of the Golden Bed, which was to be my home
through the unknown days before me.
The next day I watched the _Morning Star_ lift her sails and move
slowly out of the Bay of Traitors into the open sea, with less
regret than I have ever felt in that moment of wistfulness which
attends the departure of a sailing-ship. Exploding Eggs, at my side,
read correctly my returning eyes. "Kaoha!" he said, with a wide
smile of welcome, and with him and Vai, my next-door neighbor, I
returned gladly to my _paepae_.
Vai, or in English, Water, was a youth of twenty years, a dandy; on
ordinary occasions naked, except for the _pareu_ about his loins,
but on Sundays or when courting rejoicing in the gayest of
Europeanized clothes. He lived near me in a small house on the
river-bank with his mother and sister. All were of a long line of
chiefs, and all marvelously large and handsome.
The mother, Titihuti, would have been beloved of the ancient artists
who might have drawn her for an Amazon. I have never seen another
woman of such superb carriage. Her hair was blood-red, her brow lofty,
and an indescribable air of majesty and pride spoke eloquently of
her descent from fathers and mothers of power. She had wonderful legs,
statuesque in mold, and tattooed from ankles to thigh in most
amazing patterns. To a Marquesan of her generation the tattooed legs
of a shapely woman were the highest reach of art.
Titihuti was very proud of her legs. Though she was devout Catholic
and well aware of the contempt of the church for such vanities,
religion could not entirely efface her pride. During the first few
days she passed and repassed my cabin in her walks about her
household duties, lifting her tunic each day a little higher. Her
vanity would no doubt have continued this gradual course, but that
one day I came upon her in the river entirely nude. Her
gratification was unconcealed; naively she displayed the innumerable
whirls and arabesques of her adornment for my compliments, and
thereafter she wore only a _pareu_ when at home, entirely dropping
alien standards of modesty and her gown.
She said that people came from far valleys to see her legs, and I
could readily believe it. It was so with the leg of the late Queen
Vaekehu, a leg so perfect in mold and so elaborately and
artistically inked that it distinguished her even more than her rank.
Casual whites, especially, considered it a curiosity, and offended
her majesty by laying democratic hands upon the masterpiece. I had
known a man or two who had seen the queen at home, and who testified
warmly to the harmonious blending of flesh color with the candle-nut
soot. Among my effects in the House of the Golden Bed I had a
photograph showing the multiplicity and fine execution of the
designs upon Vaekehu's leg, yet comparing it with the two realities
of Titihuti I could not yield the palm to the queen.
The legs of Titihuti were tattooed from toes to ankles with a
net-like pattern, and from the ankles to the waistline, where the
design terminated in a handsome girdle, there were curves, circles
and filigree, all in accord, all part of a harmonious whole, and
most pleasing to the eye. The pattern upon her feet was much like
that of sandals or high mocassins, indicating a former use of
leg-coverings in a cold climate. Titihuti herself, after an anxious
inch-for-inch matching of picture and living form, said complacently
that her legs were _meitai ae_, which meant that she would not have
hesitated to enter her own decorations in beauty competition with
those of Vaekehu.
Kake, her daughter, had been christened for her mother's greatest
charm, for her name means Tattooed to the Loins, though there was
not a tattoo mark upon her. She was a beautiful, stately girl of
nineteen or twenty, married to a devoted native, to whom, shortly
after my arrival, she presented his own living miniature. I was the
startled witness of the birth of this babe, the delight of his
father's heart.
My neighbors and I had the same bathing hour, soon after daylight,
and usually chose the same pool in the clear river. Kake was lying
on a mat on their _paepae_ when I passed one morning, and when I
said "Kaoha" to her she did not reply. Her silence caused me to
mount the stairway, and at that moment the child was born.
Half an hour later she joined me in the river, and laughing back at
me over her shoulder as she plunged through the water, called that
she would give the child my name. That afternoon she was sitting on
my _paepae_, a bewitching sight as she held the suckling to her
breast and crooned of his forefather's deeds before the white had
gripped them.