VOYAGE TO CANADA BY THE GREAT LAKES OF THE INTERIOR--A BLACK BEAR--
HARASSING DETENTIONS--ANOTHER BEAR--MEET DR. RAE, THE ARCTIC
DISCOVERER--THE GUIDE'S STORY--MEET INDIANS--RUNNING THE RAPID--LAKE
SUPERIOR--A SQUALL--THE OTTAWA--CIVILISED LIFE AGAIN--SLEIGHING IN
CANADA.
At Norway House I remained for nearly a month with my old friend Mr
Russ, who in a former part of this veracious book is described as being
a very ardent and scientific fisher, extremely partial to strong rods
and lines, and entertaining a powerful antipathy to slender rods and
flies!
Little change had taken place in the appearance of the fort. The
clerks' house was still as full, and as noisy, as when Polly told
frightful stories to the greenhorns on the point of setting out for the
wild countries of Mackenzie River and New Caledonia. The Indians of the
village at Rossville plodded on in their usual peaceful way, under the
guidance of their former pastor; and the ladies of the establishment
were as blooming as ever.
One fine morning, just as Mr Russ and I were sauntering down to the
river with our rods, a north canoe, full of men, swept round the point
above the fort, and grounded near the wharf. Our rods were soon cast
aside, and we were speedily congratulating Mr and Mrs Bain on their
safe arrival. These were to be my companions on the impending voyage to
Canada, and the canoe in which they had arrived was to be our
conveyance.
Mr Bain was a good-natured, light-hearted Highlander, and his lady a
pretty lass of twenty-three.
On the following morning all was ready; and soon after breakfast we were
escorted down to the wharf by all the people in the fort, who crowded to
the rocks to witness our departure.
Our men, eight in number, stood leaning on their paddles near the wharf;
and, truly, a fine athletic set of fellows they were. The
beautifully-shaped canoe floated lightly on the river, notwithstanding
her heavy cargo, and the water rippled gently against her sides as it
swept slowly past. This frail bark, on which our safety and progression
depended, was made of birch bark sewed together, lined in the inside
with thin laths of wood, and pitched on the seams with gum. It was
about thirty-six feet long, and five broad in the middle, from whence it
tapered either way to a sharp edge. It was calculated to carry from
twenty to twenty-five hundredweight, with eight or nine men, besides
three passengers, and provisions for nearly a month. And yet, so light
was it, that two men could carry it a quarter of a mile without resting.
Such was the machine in which, on the 20th August 1845, we embarked;
and, after bidding our friends at Norway House adieu, departed for
Canada, a distance of nearly two thousand three hundred miles through
the uninhabited forests of America.
Our first day was propitious, being warm and clear; and we travelled a
good distance ere the rapidly thickening shades of evening obliged us to
put ashore for the night. The place on which we encamped was a flat
rock which lay close to the river's bank, and behind it the thick forest
formed a screen from the north wind. It looked gloomy enough on
landing; but, ere long, a huge fire was kindled on the rock, our two
snow-white tents pitched, and supper in course of preparation, so that
things soon began to wear a gayer aspect. Supper was spread in Mr
Bain's tent by one of the men, whom we appointed to the office of cook
and waiter. And when we were seated on our blankets and cloaks upon the
ground, and Mr Bain had stared placidly at the fire for five minutes,
and then at his wife (who presided at the _board)_ for ten, we began to
feel quite jolly, and gazed with infinite satisfaction at the men, who
ate their supper out of the same kettle, in the warm light of the
camp-fire. Our first bed was typical of the voyage, being hard and
rough, but withal much more comfortable than many others we slept upon
afterwards; and we were all soon as sound asleep upon the rock in the
forest as if we had been in feather-beds at home.
The beds on which a traveller in this country sleeps are various and
strange. Sometimes he reposes on a pile of branches of the pine-tree;
sometimes on soft downy moss; occasionally on a pebbly beach or a flat
rock; and not unfrequently on rough gravel and sand. Of these the moss
bed is the most agreeable, and the sandy one the worst.
Early on the following morning, long before daylight, we were roused
from our slumbers to re-embark; and now our journey may be said to have
commenced in earnest. Slowly and silently we stepped into the canoe,
and sat down in our allotted places, while the men advanced in silence,
and paddled up the quiet river in a very melancholy sort of mood. The
rising sun, however, dissipated these gloomy feelings; and after
breakfast, which we took on a small island near the head of Jack River,
we revived at once, and started with a cheering song, in which all
joined. Soon after, we rounded a point of the river, and Lake Winnipeg,
calm and clear as crystal, glittering in the beams of the morning sun,
lay stretched out before us to the distant and scarcely perceptible
horizon. Every pleasure has its alloy, and the glorious calm, on which
we felicitated ourselves not a little, was soon ruffled by a breeze,
which speedily increased so much as to oblige us to encamp near Montreal
Point, being too strong for us to venture across the traverse of five or
six miles now before us. Here, then, we remained the rest of the day
and night, rather disappointed that delay should have occurred so soon.
Next day we left our encampment early, and travelled prosperously till
about noon, when the wind again increased to such a degree that we were
forced to put ashore on a point, where we remained for the next two days
in grumbling inactivity.
There is nothing more distressing and annoying than being wind-bound in
these wild and uninhabited regions. One has no amusement except
reading, or promenading about the shore of the lake. Now, although this
may be very delightful to a person of a romantic disposition, it was
anything but agreeable to us, as the season was pretty far advanced, and
the voyage long; besides, I had no gun, having parted with mine before
leaving Norway House, and no books had been brought, as we did not
calculate upon being wind-bound. I was particularly disappointed at not
having brought my gun, for while we lay upon the rocks one fine day,
gazing gloomily on the foaming lake, a black bear was perceived walking
slowly round the bottom of the bay formed by the point on which we were
encamped. It was hopeless to attempt killing him, as Mr Bruin was not
fool enough to permit us to attack him with axes. After this a regular
course of high winds commenced, which retarded us very much, and gave us
much uneasiness as well as annoyance. A good idea of the harassing
nature of our voyage across Lake Winnipeg may be obtained from the
following page or two of my journal, as I wrote it on the spot:--
_Monday, 25th August_.--The wind having moderated this morning, we left
the encampment at an early hour, and travelled uninterruptedly till
nearly eight o'clock, when it began to blow so furiously that we were
obliged to run ashore and encamp. All day the gale continued, but in
the evening it moderated, and we were enabled to proceed a good way ere
night closed in.
_Tuesday, 26th_.--Rain fell in torrents during the night. The wind,
too, was high, and we did not leave our encampment till after breakfast.
We made a good day's journey, however, travelling about forty miles;
and at night pitched our tents on a point of rock, the only
camping-place, as our guide told us, within ten miles. No dry ground
was to be found in the vicinity, so we were fain to sleep upon the
flattest rock we could find, with only one blanket under us. This bed,
however, was not so disagreeable as might be imagined; its principal
disadvantage being that, should it happen to rain, the water, instead of
sinking into the ground, forms a little pond below you, deep or shallow,
according to the hollowness or flatness of the rock on which you repose.
_Wednesday, 27th_.--Set out early this morning, and travelled till noon,
when the wind _again_ drove us ashore, where we remained, in no very
happy humour, all day. Mr Bain and I played the flute for pastime.
_Thursday, 28th_.--The persevering wind blew so hard that we remained in
the encampment all day. This was indeed a dismal day; for,
independently of being delayed, which is bad enough, the rain fell so
heavily that it began to penetrate through our tents; and, as if not
content with this, a gust of wind more violent than usual tore the
fastenings of my tent out of the ground, and dashed it over my head,
leaving me exposed to the pitiless pelting of the storm. Mr Bain's
tent, being in a more sheltered spot, fortunately escaped.
_Friday, 29th_.--The weather was much improved to-day, but it still
continued to blow sufficiently to prevent our starting. As the wind
moderated, however, in the evening, the men carried the baggage down to
the beach, to have it in readiness for an early start on the morrow.
_Saturday, 30th_.--In the morning we found that the wind had _again_
risen, so as to prevent our leaving the encampment. This detention is
really very tiresome. We have no amusement except reading a few
uninteresting books, eating without appetite, and sleeping inordinately.
Oh that I were possessed of the Arabian Nights' _mat_, which
transported its owner whithersoever he listed! There is nothing for it,
however, but patience; and assuredly I have a good example in poor Mrs
Bain, who, though little accustomed to such work, has not given
utterance to a word of complaint since we left Norway House. It is now
four days since we pitched our tents on this vile point. How long we
may still remain is yet to be seen.
_Thursday, September 4th_.--The wind was still very strong this morning;
but so impatient had we become at our repeated detentions, that, with
one accord, we consented to do or die! So, after launching and loading
the canoe with great difficulty, owing to the immense waves that
thundered against the shore, we all embarked and pushed off. After
severe exertion, and much shipping of water, we at length came to the
mouth of the Winnipeg River, up which we proceeded a short distance, and
arrived at Fort Alexander.
Thus had we taken fifteen days to coast along Lake Winnipeg, a journey
that is usually performed in a third of that time.
Fort Alexander belongs to the Lac la Pluie district; but being a small
post, neither famous for trade nor for appearance, I will not take the
trouble of describing it. We only remained a couple of hours to take in
provisions in the shape of a ham, a little pork, and some flour, and
then re-embarking, commenced the ascent of Winnipeg River.
The travelling now before us was widely different from that of the last
fifteen days. Our men could no longer rest upon their paddles when
tired, as they used to do on the level waters of the lake. The river
was a rapid one; and towards evening we had an earnest of the rough work
in store for us, by meeting in rapid succession with three waterfalls,
to surmount which we were obliged to carry the canoe and cargo over the
rocks, and launch them above the falls. While the men were engaged in
this laborious duty, Mr Bain and I discovered a great many plum-trees
laden with excellent fruit, of which we ate as many as we conveniently
could, and then filling our caps and handkerchiefs, embarked with our
prize. They were a great treat to us, after our long abstinence from
everything but salt food; and I believe we demolished enough to have
killed a whole parish school-boys, master, usher, and all! But in
voyages like these one may take great liberties with one's interior with
perfect impunity.
About sunset we encamped in a picturesque spot near the top of a huge
waterfall, whose thundering roar, as it mingled with the sighing of the
night wind through the bushes and among the precipitous rocks around us,
formed an appropriate and somewhat romantic lullaby.
On the following morning we were aroused from our slumbers at daybreak;
and in ten minutes our tents were down and ourselves in the canoe,
bounding merrily up the river, while the echoing woods and dells
responded to the lively air of "Rose Blanche," sung by the men as we
swept round point after point and curve after curve of the noble river,
which displayed to our admiring gaze every variety of wild and woodland
scenery--now opening up a long vista of sloping groves of graceful
trees, beautifully variegated with the tints of autumnal foliage, and
sprinkled with a profusion of wildflowers; and anon surrounding us with
immense cliffs and precipitous banks of the grandest and most majestic
aspect, at the foot of which the black waters rushed impetuously past,
and gurgling into white foam as they sped through a broken and more
interrupted channel, finally sprang over a mist-shrouded clift and,
after boiling madly onwards for a short space, resumed their silent,
quiet course through peaceful scenery. As if to enhance the romantic
wildness of the scene, upon rounding a point we came suddenly upon a
large black bear, which was walking leisurely along the bank of the
river. He gazed at us in surprise for a moment; and then, as if it had
suddenly occurred to him that guns _might_ be in the canoe, away he went
helter-skelter up the bank, tearing up the ground in his precipitate
retreat, and vanished among the bushes. Fortunately for him, there was
not a gun in the canoe, else his chance of escape would have been very
small indeed, as he was only fifty yards or so from us when we first
discovered him.
We made ten portages of various lengths during the course of the day:
none of them exceeded a quarter of a mile, while the most were merely a
few yards. They were very harassing, however, being close to each
other; and often we loaded, unloaded, and carried the canoe and cargo
overland several times in the distance of half a mile.
On the 7th we left the encampment at an early hour, and made one short
portage a few minutes after starting. After breakfast, as we paddled
quietly along, we descried three canoes coming towards us, filled with
Indians of the Seauteaux tribe. They gave us a few fresh ducks in
exchange for some pork and tobacco, with which they were much delighted.
After a short conversation between them and one of our men, who
understood the language, we parted, and proceeded on our way. A little
rain fell during the day, but in the afternoon the sun shone out and
lighted up the scenery. The forests about this part of the river wore a
much more cheerful aspect than those of the lower countries, being
composed chiefly of poplar, birch, oak, and willows, whose beautiful
light-green foliage had a very pleasing effect upon eyes long accustomed
to the dark pines along the shores of Hudson Bay.
In the afternoon we met another canoe, in which we saw a gentleman
sitting. This strange sight set us all speculating as to who it could
be, for we knew that all the canoes accustomed annually to go through
these wilds had long since passed. We were soon enlightened, however,
on the subject. Both canoes made towards a flat rock that offered a
convenient spot for landing on; and the stranger introduced himself as
Dr Rae. He was on his way to York Factory, for the purpose of fitting
out at that post an expedition for the survey of the small part of the
North American coast left unexplored by Messrs. Dease and Simpson, which
will then prove beyond a doubt whether or not there is a communication
by water between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans round the north of
America. Dr Rae appeared to be just the man for such an expedition.
He was very muscular and active, full of animal spirits, and had a fine
intellectual countenance. He was considered, by those who knew him
well, to be one of the best snow-shoe walkers in the service, was also
an excellent rifle-shot, and could stand an immense amount of fatigue.
Poor fellow! greatly will he require to exert all his abilities and
powers of endurance. He does not proceed as other expeditions have
done--namely, with large supplies of provisions and men--but merely
takes a very small supply of provisions, and ten or twelve men. These,
however, are all to be of his own choosing, and will doubtless be men of
great experience in travelling among the wild regions of North America.
The whole expedition is fitted out at the expense of the Hudson Bay
Company. The party are to depend almost entirely on their guns for
provisions; and after proceeding in two open boats round the
north-western shores of Hudson Bay as far as they may find it expedient
or practicable, are to land, place their boats in security for the
winter, and then penetrate into these unexplored regions on foot. After
having done as much as possible towards the forwarding of the object of
his journey, Dr Rae and his party are to spend the long dreary winter
with the Esquimaux, and commence operations again early in the spring.
He is of such a pushing, energetic character, however, that there is
every probability he will endeavour to prosecute his discoveries during
winter, if at all practicable. How long he will remain exploring among
these wild regions is uncertain; but he may be two, perhaps three years.
There is every reason to believe that this expedition will be
successful, as it is fitted out by a Company intimately acquainted with
the difficulties and dangers of the country through which it will have
to pass, and the best methods of overcoming and avoiding them. Besides,
the doctor himself is well accustomed to the life he will have to lead;
and enters upon it, not with the vague and uncertain notions of Back and
Franklin, but with a pretty correct apprehension of the probable routine
of procedure, and the experience of a great many years spent in the
service of the Hudson Bay Company [see note 1]. After a few minutes'
conversation we parted, and pursued our respective journeys.
Towards sunset we encamped on the margin of a small lake, or expanse of
the river; and soon the silence of the forest was broken by the merry
voices of our men, and by the crashing of the stately trees, as they
fell under the axes of the _voyageurs_. The sun's last rays streamed
across the water in a broad red glare, as if jealous of the huge
campfire, which now rose crackling among the trees, casting a ruddy glow
upon our huts, and lighting up the swarthy faces of our men as they
assembled round it to rest their weary limbs, and to watch the
operations of the cook while he prepared their evening meal.
In less than an hour after we landed, the floor of our tent was covered
with a smoking dish of fried pork, a huge ham, a monstrous teapot, and
various massive slices of bread, with butter to match. To partake of
these delicacies, we seated ourselves in Oriental fashion, and sipped
our tea in contemplative silence, as we listened to the gentle murmur of
a neighbouring brook, and gazed through the opening of our tent at the
_voyageurs_, while they ate their supper round the fire, or, reclining
at length upon the grass, smoked their pipes in silence.
Supper was soon over, and I went out to warm myself, preparatory to
turning in for the night. The men had supped, and their huge forms were
now stretched around the fire, enveloped in clouds of tobacco smoke,
which curled in volumes from their unshaven lips. They were chatting
and laughing over tales of bygone days; and just as I came up they were
begging Pierre the guide to relate a tale of some sort or other. "Come,
Pierre," said a tall, dark-looking fellow, whose pipe, eyes, and hair
were of the same jetty hue, "tell us how that Ingin was killed on the
Labrador coast by a black bear. Baptiste, here, never heard how it
happened, and you know he's fond of wild stories."
"Well," returned the guide, "since you must have it, I'll do what I can;
but don't be disappointed if it isn't so interesting as you would wish.
It's a simple tale, and not over-long." So saying, the guide disposed
himself in a more comfortable attitude, refilled his pipe, and after
blowing two or three thick clouds to make sure of its keeping alight,
gave, in nearly the following words, an account of:--