A CANOE EXCURSION ON THE SHORES OF HUDSON BAY.

It is needless to say that the day we chose was fine; that the sun shone

brightly; that the curling eddies of the river smiled sweetly; that the

jagged pinnacles of the blocks of ice along shore which had not yet

melted sparkled brilliantly; that the fresh green foliage of the trees

contrasted oddly with these white masses; that Crusty and I shouldered

our canoe between us, after having placed our guns, etcetera, in it, and

walked lightly down to the river bank under our burden. It is needless,

I say, to describe all this minutely, as it would be unnecessary waste

of pen, ink, and paper. It is sufficient to say that we were soon out

in the middle of the stream, floating gently down the current towards

the Point of Marsh, which was to be the scene of our exploits.

The day was indeed beautiful, and so very calm and still that the glassy

water reflected every little cloud in the sky; and on the seaward

horizon everything was quivering and magically turned upside down--

islands, trees, icebergs, and all! A solitary gull, which stood not far

off upon a stone, looked so preposterously huge from the same

atmospherical cause, that I would have laughed immoderately, had I had

energy to do so; but I was too much wrapped in placid enjoyment of the

scene to give way to boisterous mirth. The air was so calm that the

plaintive cries of thousands of wildfowl which covered the Point of

Marsh struck faintly on our ears. "Ah!" thought I--But I need not say

what I thought. I grasped my powder-flask and shook it; it was full--

crammed full! I felt my shot-belt; it was fat, very fat, bursting with

shot! Our two guns lay side by side, vying in brightness; their flints

quite new and sharp, and standing up in a lively wide-awake sort of way,

as much as to say, "If you do not let me go, I'll go bang off by

myself!" Happiness is sometimes too strong to be enjoyed quietly; and

Crusty and I, feeling that we could keep it down no longer, burst

simultaneously into a yell that rent the air, and, seizing the paddles,

made our light canoe spring over the water, while we vented our feelings

in a lively song, which reaching the astonished ears of the

afore-mentioned preposterously large gull, caused its precipitate

departure.

In half an hour we reached the point; dragged the canoe above high-water

mark; shouldered our guns, and, with long strides, proceeded over the

swamp in search of game.

We had little doubt of having good sport, for the whole point away to

the horizon was teeming with ducks and plover. We had scarcely gone a

hundred yards ere a large widgeon rose from behind a bush, and Crusty,

who was in advance, brought it down. As we plodded on, the faint cry of

a wild-goose caused us to squat down suddenly behind a neighbouring

bush, from which retreat we gazed round to see where our friends were.

Another cry from behind attracted our attention; and far away on the

horizon we saw a large flock of geese flying in a mathematically correct

triangle. Now, although far out of shot, and almost out of sight, we

did not despair of getting one of these birds; for, by imitating their

cry, there was a possibility of attracting them towards us. Geese often

answer to a call in this way, if well imitated; particularly in spring,

as they imagine that their friends have found a good feeding-place, and

wish them to alight. Knowing this, Crusty and I continued in our

squatting position--utterly unmindful, in the excitement of the moment,

of the fact that the water of the swamp lay in the same proximity to our

persons as a chair does when we sit down on it--and commenced to yell

and scream vociferously in imitation of geese; for which, doubtless,

many people unacquainted with our purpose would have taken us. At first

our call seemed to make no impression on them; but gradually they bent

into a curve, and, sweeping round in a long circle, came nearer to us,

while we continued to shout at the top of our voices. How they ever

mistook our bad imitation of the cry for the voices of real geese, I

cannot tell--probably they thought we had colds or sore throats; at any

rate they came nearer and nearer, screaming to us in return, till at

last they ceased to flap their wings, and sailed slowly over the bush

behind which we were ensconced, with their long necks stretched straight

out, and their heads a little to one side, looking down for their

friends. Upon discovering their mistake, and beholding two human beings

instead of geese within a few yards of them, the sensation created among

them was tremendous, and the racket they kicked up in trying to fly from

us was terrific; but it was too late. The moment we saw that they had

discovered us, our guns poured forth their contents, and two out of the

flock fell with a lumbering smash upon the ground, while a third went

off wounded, and, after wavering in its flight for a little, sank slowly

to the ground.

Having bagged our game, we proceeded, and ere long filled our bags with

ducks, geese, and plover. Towards the afternoon we arrived at a tent

belonging to an old Indian called Morris. With this dingy gentleman we

agreed to dine, and accordingly bent our steps towards his habitation.

Here we found the old Indian and his wife squatting down on the floor

and wreathed in smoke, partly from the wood-fire which burned in the

middle of the tent, and partly from the tobacco-pipes stuck in their

respective mouths. Old Morris was engaged in preparing a kettle of

pea-soup, in which were boiled several plover and a large white owl;

which latter, when lifted out of the pot, looked so very like a skinned

baby that we could scarcely believe they were not guilty of cannibalism.

His wife was engaged in ornamenting a pair of moccasins with dyed

quills. On our entrance, the old man removed his pipe, and cast an

inquiring glance into the soup-kettle; this apparently gave him immense

satisfaction, as he turned to us with a smiling countenance, and

remarked (for he could speak capital English, having spent the most of

his life near York Factory) that "duck plenty, but he too hold to shoot

much; obliged to heat howl." This we agreed was uncommonly hard, and

after presenting him with several ducks and a goose, proposed an

inspection of the contents of the kettle, which being agreed to, we

demolished nearly half of the soup, and left him and his wife to "heat"

the "howl."

After resting an hour with this hospitable fellow, we departed, to

prepare our encampment ere it became dark, as we intended passing the

night in the swamps, under our canoe. Near the tent we passed a

fox-trap set on the top of a pole, and, on inquiring, found that this

was the machine in which old Morris caught his "_h_owls." The white owl

is a very large and beautiful bird, sometimes nearly as large as a swan.

I shot one which measured five feet three inches across the wings, when

expanded. They are in the habit of alighting upon the tops of blighted

trees, and poles of any kind, which happen to stand conspicuously apart

from the forest trees--for the purpose, probably, of watching for mice

and little birds, on which they prey. Taking advantage of this habit,

the Indian plants his trap on the top of a bare tree, so that when the

owl alights it is generally caught by the legs.

Our walk back to the place where we had left the canoe was very

exhausting, as we had nearly tired ourselves out before thinking of

returning. This is very often the case with eager sportsmen, as they

follow the game till quite exhausted, and only then it strikes them that

they have got as long a walk back as they had in going out. I recollect

this happening once to myself. I had walked so far away into the forest

after wild-fowl, that I forgot time and distance in the ardour of the

pursuit, and only thought of returning when quite knocked up. The walk

back was truly wretched. I was obliged to rest every ten minutes, as,

besides being tired, I became faint from hunger. On the way I stumbled

on the nest of a plover, with one egg in it. This was a great

acquisition; so seating myself on a stone, I made my dinner of it raw.

Being very small, it did not do me much good, but it inspired me with

courage; and, making a last effort, I reached the encampment in a very

unenviable state of exhaustion.

After an hour's walk, Crusty and I arrived at the place where we left

the canoe.

Our first care was to select a dry spot whereon to sleep, which was not

an easy matter in such a swampy place. We found one at last, however,

under the shelter of a small willow bush. Thither we dragged the canoe,

and turned it bottom up, intending to creep in below it when we retired

to rest. After a long search on the sea-shore, we found a sufficiency

of driftwood to make a fire, which we carried up to the encampment, and

placed in a heap in front of the canoe. This was soon kindled by means

of a flint and steel, and the forked flames began in a few minutes to

rise and leap around the branches, throwing the swampy point into deeper

shadow, making the sea look cold and black, and the ice upon its surface

ghost-like. The interior of our inverted canoe looked really quite

cheerful and snug, under the influence of the fire's rosy light. And

when we had spread our blankets under it, plucked and cleaned two of the

fattest ducks, and stuck them on sticks before the blaze to roast, we

agreed that there were worse things in nature than an encampment in the

swamps.

Ere long the night became pitchy dark; but although we could see

nothing, yet ever and anon the whistling wings of ducks became audible,

as they passed in flocks overhead. So often did they pass in this way,

that at last I was tempted to try to get a shot at them, notwithstanding

the apparent hopelessness of such an attempt. Seizing my gun, and

leaving strict injunctions with Crusty to attend to the roasting of my

widgeon, I sallied forth, and, after getting beyond the light of the

fire, endeavoured to peer through the gloom. Nothing was to be seen,

however. Flocks of ducks were passing quite near, for I heard their

wings whizzing as they flew, but they were quite invisible; so at last,

becoming tired of standing up to my knees in water, I pointed my gun at

random at the next flock that passed, and fired. After the shot, I

listened intently for a few seconds, and the next moment a splash in the

water apprised me that the shot had taken effect. After a long search I

found the bird, and returned to my friend Crusty, whom I threw into a

state of consternation by pitching the dead duck into his lap as he sat

winking and rubbing his hands before the warm blaze.

Supper in these out-of-the-way regions is never long in the eating, and

on the present occasion we finished it very quickly, being both hungry

and fatigued. That over, we heaped fresh logs upon the fire, wrapped

our green blankets round us, and nestling close together, as much

underneath our canoe as possible, courted the drowsy god. In this

courtship I was unsuccessful for some time, and lay gazing on the

flickering flames of the watch-fire, which illuminated the grass of the

marsh a little distance round, and listening, in a sort of dreamy

felicity, to the occasional cry of a wakeful plover, or starting

suddenly at the flapping wings of a huge owl, which, attracted by the

light of our fire, wheeled slowly round, gazing on us in a kind of

solemn astonishment, till, scared by the sounds that proceeded from

Crusty's nasal organ, it flew with a scream into the dark night air; and

again all was silent save the protracted, solemn, sweeping boom of the

distant waves, as they rolled at long intervals upon the sea-shore.

During the night we were awakened by a shower of rain falling upon our

feet and as much of our legs as the canoe was incapable of protecting.

Pulling them up more under shelter, at the expense of exposing our knees

and elbows--for the canoe could not completely cover us--we each gave a

mournful grunt, and dropped off again.

Morning broke with unclouded splendour, and we rose from our grassy

couch with alacrity to resume our sport; but I will not again drag my

patient reader through the Point of Marsh.

In the afternoon, having spent our ammunition, we launched our light

canoe, and after an hour's paddle up the river, arrived, laden with game

and splashed with mud, at York Factory.

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Note 1. Quicksilver easily freezes; and it has frequently been run into

a bullet mould, exposed to the cold air till frozen, and in this state

rammed down a gun barrel, and fired through a thick plank.

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Note 2. The thousands of frogs that fill the swamps of America whistle

or chirp so exactly like little birds, that many people, upon hearing

them for the first time, have mistaken them for the feathered songsters

of the groves. Their only fault is that they scarcely ever cease

singing.

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Note 3. The traveller sits, or rather lies in it, wrapped in buffalo

robes; while the dogs are urged forward by a man who walks behind, and

prevents the machine from upsetting, which it is very liable to do, from

the inequalities of the ground over which it sometimes passes.

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