RAMBLES BROUGHT TO A CLOSE—EMBARKATION.
THOUGH this little book was not written for the Iceland market, I cannot
help making one or two remarks respecting their own internal affairs.
Most undoubtedly they have learned more from experience than a foreigner
from a hasty visit could teach them, but I believe they do not
appreciate the productiveness and value of their soil. As scanty as are
the agricultural resources of Iceland, and as short as their seasons
are, I am confident that this “art of arts” might be greatly advanced
here. Plowing would, certainly, in many places, greatly improve their
land, smooth the surface, and enable them to lay it down with a better
quality of grass. Their seed would, the most of it, however, have to be
brought from foreign countries. On seeing their fine meadows of “red
top”—the kind of grass most prevalent,—I at once told them that the
white, if not the red clover, would be much more productive than their
native grasses. Afterwards, I saw many farms in the valleys of the Laxá
and the Thiorsá rivers, that were well seeded with white clover; and as
it was the haying season, I could see that these farms yielded about
double the hay that other farms did, where there was no clover. The
clover had once been sown, and then it had propagated itself. I believe
many of the more favorably located farms could be made to produce barley
and oats, if the land were properly prepared. These grains are raised in
Orkney, Shetland, and the Faroe Isles; and the latter group is but
little south of Iceland. Nothing would do, however, without plowing; and
in Iceland never a horse wore harness yet, so it would take a little
time to get such a business started. If the governor of Iceland were a
thoroughly practical man, he could do much towards introducing these and
other improvements. A good opening place for the plow would be the
“public square” in Reykjavik, about two acres of irregular grass; that,
once broken up, and leveled, and seeded down to white clover, would make
a beautiful village green. If they had plows, they would make larger
gardens than they now do with the spade, and more table vegetables would
be raised. This would be conducive to the health and comfort of the
people, and would, probably, in time, if not entirely eradicate at least
greatly reduce the diseases of the skin, and that terrible plague, the
leprosy; both of which are somewhat common, and undoubtedly produced, or
greatly aggravated, by living to a great extent on animal food.
The Icelanders, like all other ancient people, are extremely attached to
their own customs, and averse to innovation. I noticed one thing here,
that—though, as Captain Cuttle would say, there was not much wisdom in
it—is characteristic of every people under the sun. While fond of every
foreign article, particularly of ornament, they about entirely neglected
the native productions. With great pains and trouble, they would rear in
their houses, geraniums, roses, fuchsias, violets, and other exotics,
and yet neglect to plant one single native flower. The beautiful and
fragrant heath, common over much of Iceland, does not grow within
several miles of Reykjavik; and yet not one single resident had planted
by his dwelling a stalk of this elegant little shrub, to bloom and give
out perpetual fragrance. I saw, also, beautiful annual flowers growing
wild in the fields, and on the river banks, but which were never
cultivated. Sir George Mackenzie has given a list of the Iceland Flora,
and a pretty long catalogue it is.
I believe a carriage road could be made in some places, particularly
between Reykjavik and Hafnarfiorth; but then it might not pay to attempt
to make many carriage roads, and introduce wheeled vehicles in Iceland.
If the land was leveled and seeded down, and bogs and wet places
drained, and converted into dry, productive meadows, I believe it would
be an object for the larger farmers to have carts to draw their hay on,
rather than carry it in bundles on the backs of men or horses. Then,
too, if their meadows were smooth the product would be much greater, and
they would be able to introduce a much larger scythe than the little
two-foot knife-blade affair used there at present. With the improvement
of their land, their tools could be greatly improved. The population of
Iceland has been stated at 60,000 souls, and probably the increase is
not one-and-a-half per cent. annually. Women, as well as men, work in
the fields, during the hay season; but, in fishing, the men only are
engaged. The exposure attendant on this latter business gives many
complaints of the lungs; and probably more die of consumption than of
any other disease. The plague, about five hundred years ago, visited
Iceland; but cholera and yellow fever have never been here. There are
but few physicians in the country, and the distances they have to travel
often make their services of no avail, Death calling on the patient
before the doctor does. In countries of more luxury and refinement,
Death often calls soon after the doctor! From what I learn, I should
judge longevity was not as great here as in most countries in the
temperate zones.
The last Sunday I was in Iceland I attended church at the Reykjavik
cathedral. This is a beautiful little edifice, of brick, with a fine
altar—altogether of an ornamental appearance. The sermon was in
Icelandic, the service Lutheran, but much after the style of the Church
of England. Three Sundays out of four, I think it is, that the service
in this place is in Icelandic, and every fourth Sunday in Danish. What
the use may be of having any service in Danish is more than I can tell,
for a more worldly, ungodly set than the Danish merchants of Iceland I
never saw in a Christian country. At this place, their example has
driven nearly all religious observances away from the Icelanders. Though
the day was beautiful, and but one church in the village, and all
professing the same religion, and all the people, too, understanding
both languages, there were not, from among the twelve hundred people of
the place, fifty worshipers. This certainly does not accord with what I
have said of the moral and religious habits of the Icelanders in
general. I do not think I do the Danes injustice, when I lay the
immorality in and around Reykjavik to their influence and example. In
several villages and country places I had a good opportunity of
observing, and I know that ten times greater proportion of the people
attended church than here in Reykjavik. A class like these merchants,
who notoriously do nothing but traffic, make money, gamble, and drink,
cannot improve the morals of a simple, pious, and intellectual people.
The people assembled at the church very quietly, and took their seats
without tarrying at the door, or entering into conversation. They were
all dressed neatly, and two or three females wore the ancient costume of
the country. It is very picturesque, but
“Description will not suit itself in words.”
I cannot do better than give another extract from the letter of
President Johnson—quoted in last chapter—under date of March 1st, 1854,
as well as part of one written the November previous. Only a portion of
the letters are given, and all of this is of a private and personal
nature, intended for no eye but my own. Barring the compliments that are
given, the extracts will be read with interest, both as showing the
composition of an Icelander in a foreign language, and the educational,
parochial, and local news communicated. Commencing his letter of March
1st, he says:
“MY DEAR SIR!
“I have to acknowledge from you the third letter since we
parted—of Dec. 4th, last (Washington)—together with a large
parcel of books, all sent to me by the care of your friend Mr.
Younghusband, at Liverpool, who, besides, had the kindness to
write me a very friendly letter, and send me the last copies of
the leading newspapers of Great Britain.—Indeed, sir, I feel
quite ashamed at receiving so many proofs of your friendship,
without being capable of giving you the least mark of my
gratitude; for all I can furnish is our little “Þjoðolfur,”[45]
a poor return for all your liberality. To this I take the
liberty to add an examination paper—(Program[46])—in Icelandic
and Danish—of the management and teaching of our College, for
the year 1852, ’53.
* * * * *
I have forwarded all your presents to the persons interested
that are living here in town and neighborhood: such as were
destined for the interior of the country, I must keep till the
spring, all communication therewith being impracticable except
on foot. Now I am charged with the task of bringing you their
thanks, for your kindness in remembering them when you had so
little to thank for. I left your direction with them, intimating
that a letter from them would be much esteemed by you, even
though written in Danish or Icelandic. And as to news concerning
your acquaintances here, all is unchanged. None of the ladies
you mention, are married. The Misses Johnson are keeping a
female school pretty successfully; the Misses Sivertsen living
with their parents, and I am to tell you the compliment of their
father.[47] He has delivered to me the flask you so kindly
presented me with, and which I shall keep as a souvenir of you,
though rather too small for my capacious stomach! The Dean
Johnson is going to leave in March, to the regret of his
friends. He is to have another living in the interior of the
country. Thorarensen has left the College, and you will find his
name (S. Thorarensen) as well as that of Jon Sveinson in the
examination paper I send you here inclosed. Mrs. Egilson,[48]
Mr. Ranthrys, the Apothecary, and his lady, Mr. Jon Arnason,[49]
were all extremely pleased with the _N. Y. Illustrated News_ you
sent them. I have also to salute you from the Bishop.”
In Mr. Johnson’s letter of Nov. 15th, 1853, he says:
“I have to acknowledge from you the reception of two letters;
the former of Sept. 24, 1852 (Glasgow), the latter of Sept. 5,
this year (Washington), both attended with newspapers, for which
I feel very much obliged to you, as for your friendship in
general. I am very glad to learn by your latter letter, that you
are returned sound and safe to your native country, from your
long and checkered journey. But I trust you will not repent the
toils and hardships inseparably connected with such a ’tour’
almost around the world. You will, I am sure, allow of its
important consequences for our own mental improvement and
development. Old Horace says: ’_Qui multorum providus urbes et
mores hominum inspexit—latumque per æquor, aspera multa pertulit
adversis rerum immersabilis undis_.’
“I am very much indebted to you for the copies of newspapers you
so kindly have sent to me. However, I deeply regret none of them
contained your lectures upon the curiosities of this country, as
in general what attracted your notice on your extensive journey.
But then I console myself by your kind promise to send me a copy
of your Travels in Iceland, when ready from the press.
* * * * *
I have to announce to you Jon Sveinson’s most heartfelt thanks
for your letter of introduction to your friend at Hull,[50]
which benefited him very much during his stay there; and I feel
obliged to join my thanks to his, as it was on my recommendation
that you gave him the said letter. Indeed, sir, he feels very
much bound in gratitude to you and your friends for all the
kindness they poured on him. He has now left the college—last
season—with a very honorable testimonial; and but for the
cholera that has been raging in Denmark during the latter part
of the last summer, he would have gone to the University of
Copenhagen; but now having postponed his journey thither to the
next spring, he passes this winter at his father’s, who is a
reputed clergyman of easy circumstances, in the interior of this
country. Jon Sveinson’s visit to Hull, has also procured me a
friend there. The last summer, I had successively received some
copies of English newspapers, without knowing from what quarter
they came. I thought of you or some of my other friends in Great
Britain; but a couple of months ago I received a letter from Mr.
Archibald Kidd, Saville street, Hull (if I decipher his name
correctly), who informed me that it was to him I was indebted
for the favor of the newspapers, and who asked me some
information about the means of studying Icelandic literature,
and the method of setting out about it. I most readily complied
with his request, as far as I could, and wrote him by the last
post-ship for Liverpool. As he intimated to know you, I expect
you to be so kind as to give me in your next letter some
information about this gentleman.
* * * * *
I send you enclosed a copy of the _Thiotholfur_ for the whole
year 1852-53. I wish you to tell me whether I am to continue it.
This I might easily do, especially in the summer time, as at
that season there are frequent occasions for sending to England;
whereas, in winter it is more difficult, the only ship going
there being the post-ship, and my extensive official
correspondence with the ministry of public instruction seldom
permitting me sufficient leisure to write to my private friends.
“Now, I wish these lines may find you in good health and
happiness; and I sign myself, my dear sir,
“Your very much indebted friend,
“BJARNI JOHNSON.”
“To Mr. PLINY MILES,
Washington.”
It should be stated that the great _capacity_ of my friend does not
consist in the appetite, so much as a certain _embonpoint_, coming, as
he does partly up to Shakspeare’s description of Cardinal Wolsey—“a man
of an unbounded stomach.”
In closing my account of the Icelanders at Reykjavik, I have to record
the pleasure and profit that I derived from the friendly attentions of
these excellent people. I spent many and most pleasant hours with
President Johnson, and with Mr. Sivertsen and his wife and daughters;
also a most agreeable evening at the house of the Dean, Rev. Mr.
Johnson, who made a small party on my account. The young ladies in this
family, as also in Mr. Sivertsen’s, and Mr. Ranthry’s, contributed much
to the agreeable socialities of my stay in Reykjavik. Were these fair
daughters of the North to appear in society in England or America, a
comparison to their disadvantage could not be drawn. Speaking several
languages—always two or more—good players on the pianoforte and the
guitar, skilled also in vocal music, and to these accomplishments, add a
knowledge of household duties, and I fear that many of the graduates of
our female boarding-schools could not successfully come into competition
with them. I also partook of the hospitalities of their most excellent
bishop, who lives a little way out of town, on a pleasant part of the
coast, opposite the island of Vithey. Before leaving Copenhagen, and on
my return there, I formed a most agreeable acqaintance with Mr. Gisli
Brinjulfsson, quite a young man, but already enjoying a good literary
reputation, both in his own country and in Denmark. He is a graduate of
the Iceland College, and edited for two successive years the
“NORTHURFARI,”[51]—an Iceland “Annual.” This volume gives a _résumé_ of
the political news of the world for the year previous, together with
tales, original poetry, and many interesting translations from English
and American writers. But the time of my departure from the country,
arrives and these jottings must close. As the vessel prepared to sail,
several of my Iceland friends came to see me off, and wish me a pleasant
journey. As I took their parting hands, I could not but think that this,
in all human probability, was our last meeting on earth. Promises to
write and send newspapers were mutually interchanged. The booming gun
echoes o’er the broad waters—the sail is set—the mountains fast
disappearing in the distance, and the shores of Iceland grow dim on my
sight. The little ship with the wandering pilgrim goes dancing over the
waves.
“The land is no longer in view,
The clouds have begun to frown;
But, with a stout vessel and crew,
We’ll say, let the storm come down.
“And the song of our hearts shall be,
While the winds and waters rave,—
A home, a home, on the firm-set lea!
And _not_ on the bounding wave!”
FOOTNOTES:
-----
Footnote 45:
“Þjoðolfur,” the Reykjavik newspaper.
Footnote 46:
“Efterretninger.”
Footnote 47:
To this excellent gentleman, Mr. Sivertsen, I am indebted for numerous
hospitalities. Forty-two years before, in 1810, he entertained at his
house Sir George Mackenzie and his companions.
Footnote 48:
Widow of Sweinborn Egilson, a poet and literary man, who died a few
days after I left the country.
Footnote 49:
Librarian of the public library at Reykjavik.
Footnote 50:
Mr. Joseph W. Leng, Publisher and Bookseller, Saville street, Hull; a
gentleman of intelligence and high worth, to whom I am indebted for
many kind attentions to myself, as well as for his favors to my young
Iceland friend.
Footnote 51:
“Norðurfari,”—literally, Northern Journalist.