The above designs are all to be burnt in on crystal, porcelain, etc.,
and cannot be used any other way.
PRESERVATION OF
NATURAL FLOWERS.
[Illustration]
WRITTEN ESPECIALLY FOR THIS WORK BY THE FIRST PREMIUM PRESERVER OF
FLOWERS.
[Illustration]
“’Twas a lovely thought to mark the hours,
As they floated in light away,
By the opening and the folding flowers,
That laugh in the summer’s day.”—_Hemans._
There are five distinct methods for preserving natural flowers, and no
one method can be given proper for all varieties, and all families of
the floral kingdom. Annuals, flowers of quick growth, of a succulent
nature, cannot be preserved in their natural state. Balsams require the
elaborate chemical method, and all flowers resembling the balsam require
the same specific treatment. To preserve flowers as they should be
preserved, a thorough acquaintance with all five methods is desired.
These, in combination, form one perfect system, which requires lessons
and experimental practice.
There was a process patented, and practiced for some years, which was
found, after a year’s time, that the flowers grew dark, spotted, and
were a distressing souvenir. This was the
=Hot Water System.= All flowers of a fibrous, woody nature, are
susceptible of preservation. The fibrous nature of the wood enters into
the composition of the flower.
Roses, camelias, japonicas, tube roses, and azaleas, also carnation
pinks, (white), were preserved in boiling water, as below:
Take a few crystals of oxalic acid, pour on them boiling water, perhaps
a pint to a half dozen crystals, thoroughly dissolving the crystals;
after separating carefully with the sharp point of a fine moulding pin
the flower petals, drop them into the boiling water, each flower
separately—replace it over the fire and let it boil a few seconds,
watching and removing each petal as soon as the waxy substance of the
flower is gone, and the transparent fibre of the petals remain. Coat the
back of the petal with sheet wax, pressing it down until incorporated
with the fibre, and put back the flower precisely as it was taken apart,
using a wax bud for the foundation of the flower, and using cotton
covered wire for the stems.
At the Centennial Exposition held at Philadelphia in 1876, a white
transparent camelia attracted my attention. Being possessed of every
receipt in the known world, and some of my formulas being combinations
resulting from experiments under the instructions of the celebrated
chemical professors at Leipzig, I requested permission to examine this
flower closely, and to do so, was obliged to get special permission.
This camelia was transparent, clear, pure, without flaw, and close
examination showed it to be a composite of several different flowers,
all of the same variety, done by the hot water system, and instead of
wax on the back, varnished with a fine transparent white spirit varnish.
These flowers look well for a while, but I do not commend its general
use. It will do where the flowers are to be worn in the hair, or on the
breast, for a few times only, but after a year they grow discolored,
spotted, and are unpleasant souvenirs.
=The Sandwich Island Process.= In the Sandwich Islands the ferns are
preserved green and fresh for months by those who sell collections to
visitors of the Islands. These are prepared carefully, and picked in a
dry atmosphere, (remember, _that_ is indispensable to good
preservation), the fronds selected perfect in shape, brilliant in tint,
and fully seeded. The fern fully spored is in its prime. The paper used
for pressing should be an absorbent, not letter paper, or any satin
surfaced or calendered papers. The collector should carry the book to
the ground, and not depend on bringing them home in a botanist’s case,
or heated by hand bringing. You must pick them dry, and place them
directly in the book, bringing them home only in that manner. Arrived
home, roll a small bit of cotton batting around the cut end of the stem,
and seal the end over with red sealing wax, leaving as small a wad of
cotton and wax as possible. Then transfer the ferns into another fresh
book of papers, changing them every morning and evening until dry. The
warmer the books are kept the greener and fresher the ferns after
drying. Then ferns can be used ten years after pressing, cutting off the
waxed end and setting the ferns into water, they will in twenty-four
hours, fill out again and look like freshly picked ferns.
A preserver of flowers said once to me that ferns could not be kept
green by any known process. This Sandwich Island process is splendid,
and a complete success.
By dissolving benzoic acid in alcohol one oz. to a pint, coloring with
aniline green, shaded up by mixing brown or black and yellow, all
anilines, and dipping _old_ ferns, browned by time, the ferns can be
used for decoration, in hanging baskets, or on the window curtains, but
they do not bear close examination. The coloring matter is perfectly
perceptible on close inspection.
=The Sand Drying Method= in preserving small flowers is good, and no
process is complete without the addition of this important part of the
instruction. It is within reach of every lady, and the flowers so dried
will retain their colors a long time. To every 25 lbs. of fine glass
blower’s sand add 1 oz. of spermaceti and 1 oz. of calcined borax,
thoroughly mixed and incorporated with the sand. The sand must be kept
perfectly dry, the flowers must be dry, and from all flowers where the
honey gathers at the bottom of the cup, it must be removed before the
sand bath is attempted. This is a delicate operation, and effected by
the use of a crotchet hook, with a little cotton batting twisted around
the point. Introduce it delicately in the flower, remove the honey,
dew-drop or water drop, and your flower will preserve dry, in shape.
Sweet alyssum, daisies, candytuft, can be beautifully preserved and keep
their freshness for a long time, under the sand drying process. Some
flowers need a varnish before the sand bath, some need to be varnished
after removal from the bath. All labiate corollas, all flowers cup
shaped, should be first stuffed delicately and carefully with cotton
batting before putting them into the sand. This knowledge is obtained
only by a regular course of instruction, as the family of flowers, or
the floral kingdom is so extended. After preparing the flowers, (all
flowers should stand after being plucked a short time, their stems
immersed in cold water, so as to give full life and strength to the
flower, and if it is to be varnished it should be done while standing in
the water), have ready your sand in a box with a draw bottom. This
bottom is drawn out after the process is completed, leaving the dried
flowers intact in the box.
Fill your box partly, with sand perfectly dry, without mixture, clip off
the stems to within an inch of the flower cluster, and dip it into hot
sealing wax, sealing up the end of the stem carefully and thoroughly,
then immerse the stem in the sand up to the flower cluster, taking care
to space between the flowers—no two touching. After filling your flowers
in the box, commence by pouring in softly and gradually the sand
prepared for them. Cover them perfectly, and set the box in a dry place,
where no dampness can get into the sand. A single drop of water, or a
particle of sap, will ruin the whole of the box of flowers.
In some white flowers a little chloride of lime mixed with the sand can
be used once, but as soon as the lime slacks it must be removed. Flowers
require from two weeks to thirty days in an even heat of 80 degrees, not
more. As soon as the process is complete, pour off carefully the sand
from the flowers, and if found to be brittle, expose them a few hours to
a dry atmosphere. The ordinary atmosphere of the room will be all that
is required.
For the five methods combined, regular lessons are required, but it is
not necessary for any excepting those who desire to make floral
preservation a business. The sand drying can be followed by any lady for
winter bouquets, and the usual flowers of the garden, beautifully
preserved in this method, for winter decorations, hanging baskets, etc.
Jardinieres are a lovely winter ornament, with green ferns floating, one
could not tell but what these flowers had just been plucked from the
garden.
=The Last Process is=: Clip from the bush, without injuring the stem,
the buds just as they are opening, allowing two or three inches of stem
with each bud, and immediately cover the ends with hot sealing wax. When
cold, wrap them up in cotton batting, separately, and lay them away in a
cool place in a box, where nothing can rest upon or injure them.
At any time you wish to make use of them, bring them forth from the
place of concealment, cut off the end containing the wax, and place the
stems in a vase of cool water, containing a little salt. Allow them to
remain in a moderately warm room for a few hours, and you will perceive
the buds commencing to expand and open, and soon after you can have the
opportunity of beholding a full-blown rose, representing all those
beautiful colors with which nature has so wisely endowed it, and sending
forth, in all the sweetness and purity of its nature, the most loving
and fascinating odors, which is so much desired and sought after by
lovers of flowers.
These flowers in winter command exceedingly high prices, so much so that
some are making it a business of preparing them, and are making money by
the operation.