wealthy can buy for it is indeed exceptional to find an ordinary weaver
who can make tapestry. To the French is given the honour of being
the most clever weavers in the world. As a general thing in France
weaving is an inherited trade. You will find, if you ask the weaver
what his mother, his father and his grandfathers were, he will tell
you--weavers. The hands of the men are almost as small and soft as the
women's.
I have seen a beautiful screen that represented a pansy field, if you
can imagine such a thing worked in over two hundred shades of silk.
Every conceivable kind of pansy was worked in it. It was made for a man
who loved pansies. It took four weavers three months in which to make
it, working eight hours each day.
Too much thought can not be given to the right colour for your rugs
or whatever you intend to weave on your simple loom. Study to get
harmonizing effects rather than contrasting ones. Gray is probably the
most pleasing of backgrounds and can be combined to advantage with
almost any other shade. Remember that a dark room needs a cheerful
colouring while a bright airy room can stand subdued shades.
Red excites the nerves. Lavender is depressing. Blue is a cold colour
and should be combined with other colours to be effective. Green is
restful to the eyes in any shade, while yellow seems to reflect light
and for that reason is to be highly recommended for use in a dark room.
One of the prettiest rooms I know, which is ordinarily a very dark one,
is one that has bright yellow and chestnut brown for its decoration.
The minute you enter that room you are impressed with its cheerfulness
and warmth.
No matter how pretty and beautiful are the hangings and other dainty
touches of a room, a rug remains the chief attraction. It is to a room
what a vase is to a flower. A rug is not absolutely necessary, but
unless it is the right kind your room looks patchy.
As in everything else practice makes perfect and as soon as you become
accustomed to weaving you will plan regular designs that will make the
work more fascinating. If you have a large quantity of undefinable
shades of silk or wool or cotton rags I would recommend that you dye
them all one shade.
One ten-cent package of a dye will colour a couple of pounds of rags.
Get a dye that is good for all three kinds of material as sometimes a
dye that changes the colour of silk may not affect cotton at all.
XXVII
SIMPLE CROCHETING, STITCHERY FOR EDGES AND SHAWLS
CROCHETING ABBREVIATIONS.
1. Slip stitch (sl st)
2. Chain stitch (ch) (Figure No. 227)
3. Single crochet (s c) " No. 228)
4. Double crochet (d c) " No. 229)
5. Treble crochet (tr c) " No. 230)
6. Shell (sh) " No. 231)
7. Stitches (sts)
The beginner in crochet will have very little trouble in learning the
work as the stitches used are comparatively few in number although the
various combinations in which they may be used are almost unlimited. It
is wise to become accustomed to the stitches and especially with the
abbreviations, which are used so extensively throughout all crochet
work. No doubt the beauty and variety of the patterns one can execute,
also the durability of the work are the chief causes for its popularity
at the present time.
The implement used is a crochet hook which varies in size according
with the quality of the thread used. The steel hook with the bone
handle is to be preferred.
[Illustration: Fig. 227. Chain stitch]
Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the importance of the position
of the hands when working, and the firmness of the stitches, as the
work is, at once, better and more even when the proper position is
maintained. The crochet needle should be held lightly between the
first finger and the thumb of the right hand; the hook horizontal and
parallel with the first finger of the right hand, that part of the work
which is in course of construction being held closely between the thumb
and third finger of the left hand. The thread is wound once around the
first finger, passes under the second and third fingers of the left
hand, and is wound around the small finger. It is now held in position
by bending the fourth and small fingers toward the palm of the hand.
The foundation stitch of all crocheting is the chain stitch (ch) (see
Figure 227) which is begun by making a slip knot around the needle.
Draw the thread through this loop, and you have a chain. Again draw the
thread through this second loop, continue until the chain is of desired
length.
Another stitch is the slip stitch (sl st). Insert the hook in the
foundation work. Draw loop through the work and another through the
loop on the needle.
Single crochet (s c). See Figure 228.
[Illustration: Fig. 228. Single crochet]
Insert hook in work, make a loop on the hook and draw through, making
two loops on the needle. Throw thread again over hook. Draw thread
through both loops.
Double crochet (d c). See Figure 229.
Before inserting the hook in the stitch to be worked, put the thread
around it. Throw thread around hook and draw the thread through the
stitch and you will have three loops on hook. Throw thread again around
hook and draw thread through two loops. Throw thread again around hook
and draw through the remaining two loops.
[Illustration: Fig. 229. Double crochet]
Treble crochet (tr c). See Figure 230.
[Illustration: Fig. 230. Treble crochet]
Put the thread around the hook twice, insert in the work. Draw a loop
through work, making four loops upon needle. Draw the thread or loop
through two loops on needle, then again through two loops and the
third time through the remaining two loops.
Shells (sh). See Figure 231.
[Illustration: Fig. 231. Shells]
Shells are formed by making groups of either single, double or treble
stitches worked into the same space or stitch.
[Illustration: Fig. 232. Tiny insertion]
Edging and insertions are very much in use and are often applied to
blouses, collars and cuffs, towels, centre pieces, handkerchiefs, belts
and various other articles.
_Tiny Insertion_ (Figure 232).
Ch 7 catch into a ring and into one side of ring work 5 s c *ch. 7
catch in next to last s c, 5 s c in new ring. Repeat from * for length
desired and fasten off.
_Tiny Edging_ (Figure 233).
1st row--Ch. 9 turn.
2nd row--1 s c in each 9 ch, turn.
3rd row--ch 9 work 1 d c in first s c made, turn.
4th row--* Over ch work 9 s c Work ch of 9 turn.
5th row--1 d c over the d c of preceding row. Turn.
Repeat from * until you have length desired.
[Illustration: Fig. 233. Tiny edging]
For the edging made:
1st row--Over each d c on one side and each empty ch on the other work
4 s c.
2nd row--Work 1 d c into first s c then * 2 ch, miss 2 s c and work 1 d
c into next. Repeat from * along both sides of insertion.
_Loop Edging_ (Figure 234).
Work 29 s c over a padding cord, then catch in 7th stitch made to form
a ring. Again work 29 s c and catch in the 7th stitch to form another
ring. Continue until the edging is the required length.
[Illustration: Fig. 234. Loop edging]
For the edge, begin at the first end for the picots and work as
follows: make 1 s c into 8th stitch of first ring, ch 5, skip 1 s c--1
s c in next stitch. Repeat for three picots. Ch 2, begin in 8th stitch
of next ring and make 3 picots there and so continue to the end of
edging.
_Loop Insertion_ (Figure 235).
Ch 10 and catch in a ring into one side of ring work 6 s c, ch 10,
catch in the last s c forming a ring, and into new ring work 6 s c.
Continue in this way for length desired. Then work down the other side
of rings 6 d c in each.
[Illustration: Fig. 235. Loop Insertion]
Now work down each side of insertion 1 s c in the centre point of each
side of the ring and 5 ch between. In these ch loops work 6 s c each
and fasten off.
_Narrow Crochet Edging_ (Figure 236).
Ch 14.
1st row--1 d c in 10th ch from needle, ch 3, 1 d c in same st. Ch 3, 1
d c in next st, ch 3, 1 d c in same st. 3 stitches on foundation will
stand beyond the row.
[Illustration: Fig. 236. Narrow crochet edging]
2nd row--Ch 6 turn * 1 d c in centre loop of cluster of three, ch 3
repeat from * 2 times. 1 d c in same space, ch 2-1 d c in third ch of
turning loop.
3d row--Turn ch 5 * 1 d c in centre of loop of clusters, ch 3 repeat
twice from * 1 d c in same space * ch 1-1 d c in 6 ch loop, repeat from
* 7 times ch 1-1 s c in end of foundation.
4th row--Turn ch 6-1 sl st in fourth ch from needle ch 1-1 d c in next
space between d c, ch 5-1 sl st in fourth ch from needle, ch 1-1 d c
in next space. Repeat from * 5 times. Ch 3-1 d c in centre loop of 7
ch clusters, repeat from * three times more ch 2, 1 d c in third ch on
turning loop.
5th row--Turn ch 5, make clusters in centre loop as with other row.
Repeat from 2nd row. On each repetition of 3 row the final s c is taken
up in the loop of 3 ch of the former scallop.
_Cone Insertion_ (Figure 237).
1st row--Ch 15 turn 1 d c in ninth ch from needle, ch 3 skip 2-1 d c in
next, ch 3 skip 2-1 d c in last stitch.
2nd row--4 s c in first space, ch 1 in second space work 2 d c--1 tr c,
ch 3, 1 tr c, 2 d c, ch 1, in third space work 4 s c.
3d row--Ch 10, one sl st over 3 ch--ch 5, 1 tr c in last s c of
preceding row.
[Illustration: Fig. 237. Cone insertion]
4th row--4 s c in first space, 1 s c in same space with sl st, 4 s c in
next space.
5th row--Ch 6, skip 2 s c of preceding row, 1 d c in next stitch. Ch
3, skip 2-1 d c in next stitch. 3 ch, skip 2-1 d c in final st. Repeat
from beginning of second row.
_Crochet Insertion with Ribbon_ (Figure 238).
[Illustration: Fig. 238. Insertion with ribbon]
Make a ch of 35 stitches: 1 d c in 7 st from end of ch, 3 ch, 1 d c in
next 3 rd st of ch, 3 ch, 1 d c in next 3d stitch of ch, 3 ch, 3 d c in
5th of ch, 3 ch, 3 d c in same st as last 3 d c to join shell, 4 ch, 3
d c in next 5th st of ch, 3 ch, 3 d c in same stitch as last three, 3
ch, 1 d c in next 5th of ch, 3 ch, 1 d c in next 3d of ch, 3 ch, 1 d c
in last stitch of ch, 8 ch; turn. Work the next and every succeeding
row the same. Run narrow ribbon under and over 3 ch. in centre. This
trimming is very pretty when used on a blouse waist.
[Illustration: Fig. 239. Rainbow shawl]
_Rainbow Shawl_ (Figure 239).
Either Saxony or floss may be used, about six skeins of white and half
a skein of each of the colours used being necessary.
_To form main part of Shawl._
Ch 68 sts of white.
1st row--Turn and work back thus: Draw out st on hook about
three-fourths of an inch, pass hook under the single thread of wool,
draw through st, pass it under wool, work a sl st, 1 ch (in the way
you work first st of every row). To make second st* pass hook through
second, draw up to three fourths of an inch, catch the wool and make 2
close ch: repeat from * to end of chain. Turn and repeat from first row
till you have worked 76 rows in the white wool.
_To make the Rainbow Stripe on either end of white._
Fasten in the pink wool and work two rows, then in the order
named--yellow, orange, light green, dark green, indigo, light blue,
violet. Finish the end with two or more rows of white.
[Illustration: Fig. 240. Cross stitch]
_To make Fringe._
*Chain 35, fasten down in next st with a sl st, repeat from * to end of
row. Finish both edges of scarf with a row of knot stitches.
CROCHET SCARF (Figure 241).
Material, 8 skeins Shetland Floss.
[Illustration: Fig. 241. Shawl in cross stitch]
Directions for Cross Stitch (see Figure 240).
Make a chain the desired length: work 1 tr c in the fourth stitch of
ch. Now stitch back into the first and second of ch and make a tr c in
each. (This forms a cross stitch.) Repeat to end of chain.
_To make Scarf._
Ch 139 stitches.
Work 34 cross stitch on ch; continue working back and forth with cross
stitch until scarf measures 1-1/2 yards in length. Finish ends with a
fringe. Each strand is 6 inches and 8 strands of wool are knotted to
each cross stitch to form fringe.
XXVIII
PATTERN DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DOLL CAPS AND CAPES, JACKETS AND CHILD'S
BEDROOM SLIPPERS
Having become well acquainted with the stitches and patterns described
in the previous chapter, you are competent to go on with the more
intricate ones described in this chapter.
A pretty doll's cap is made of silk. Without a silk padded lining the
cap will be just the thing for the warmer months.
_Doll's Cap._
Begin by winding silk around a lead pencil 12 times: make 24 s c over
this.
2nd row--Make 2 s c in every s c on first row.
3rd row--S c in every s c on 2nd row.
Continue widening often enough to keep the work nearly flat (to do this
two s c instead of one are worked upon the one of the preceding row).
This completes the solid work of the crown.
4th row--Ch 3, make 3 d c in same stitch, skip 4 d c in next st.
Continue around entire crown.
5th row--Make a shell of 6 d c in centre of each shell of 4 d c,
leaving off within 7 shells of last row.
6th row--Make a ch of 5 st and s c in middle of next shell. Ch 5, s c
in middle of next shell. Continue around entire crown.
7th row--* 5 s c on each ch of 5 of previous row. Turn s c for entire
row around to where the shells of 4 were left. This begins the front of
cap. Turn and repeat from * 2 more rows. Next make a row of shells of 4
st in every 5th st.
8th row--Make shell of 5 d c in middle of each shell of 4 d c. Repeat
these 2 groups of 4 rows of s c and 2 rows of shells twice more.
9th row--A row of 5 ch in middle of each shell, then a row of s c.
Finish the cap with a row of shells of 7 d c around the entire cap.
Finish shells with a row of picots made by a ch of 3 caught in every st
with a s c. This completes the cap.
[Illustration: Fig. 242. Doll's Hug-me-tight]
_Doll's Hug-Me-Tight_ (Figure 242).
1 skein of Saxony white.
1 skein of Shetland floss, blue.
1-1/3 yards of narrow white ribbon.
Make a ch of 20 st., take up each ch with a s c.
Turn 19 s c in slipper stitch (slipper stitch is s c taken up on the
back thread of the row below). Crochet back and forth in this manner
until you have 8 ribs or 16 rows which form the back. Then take up 5 s
c and crochet back and forth until you have 9 ribs or 18 rows, which
forms the one front. Then count nine stitches for the neck, taking up
the remaining 5 sts for the other front and make 9 ribs or 18 rows for
the other front. Finish with a border all around of s c taking up the
whole stitch, alternating the colours, 1 row blue and 1 white until
you have four blue and four white, finish the whole with a blue picot.
Cut the ribbon into six pieces, sew one piece in each of the outer
edges to form the armhole and front as illustrated. This jacket can be
made for a child by commencing with 45 ch, 25 ribs for back and 25 ribs
for fronts.
_Jacket_ (Figure 243).
[Illustration: Fig. 243. Jacket in star stitch]
Pompadour wool through which a thread of silk runs, was used for making
this pretty jacket. Three skeins of the wool are required.
The body of the sacque is of star stitch (Figure 244).
Ch 95 on which work 11 stars, widen with 2 ch.
For sleeve make 11 stars, and back, 25 stars.
One front 11 stars. For the first 4 rows of front work 11 stars, widen
with 2 ch work across sleeve, widen 2, work across back, widen 1
star every other row; at sleeve widen 2, across sleeve widen 2, then
11 stars from the front. After the 4th row continue as before, only
widening 1 star at the four sleeve points for 10 rows. In 15th row work
11 stars for the sleeve, now drop out the entire sleeve, including the
widening points, work across back alone, leave out sleeve as before
then 11 stars for the second front; work 12 rows across sacque widening
under arms as in centre back. Tie wool at point under arm and work 13
rows around sleeve joining each row as made. For border, work 4 rows of
knot stitch.
[Illustration: Fig. 244. Star stitch]
_Slippers in single crochet_ (Figure 245).
One skein of each of two contrasting colours of Germantown wool, one
pair of soles. For making these slippers in mercerized Perle cotton,
which is very cool for warmer days, two balls will be required.
In making slippers it is very essential for the work to be as tight as
possible to prevent it from stretching.
[Illustration: Fig. 245. Slipper in single crochet]
The following directions are for slipper size 3. Ch 11 sts. Make 11 s c
in slipper stitch, described in doll's hug-me-tight (Figure 246) widen
in the centre by making 3 s c in 1 ch. Make two rows like last widening
in centre, then a row without widening. When the work reaches from the
toe to the hollow part of the sole (about 12 ribs) the front is long
enough. (Alternate two rows one colour and two in the other.) Turn and
work 15 s c. Continue in the slipper stitch until the work will reach
around the sole by stretching. Join the end to the front by overcasting
on the wrong side. Beginning at the corner where the end is joined make
a row of crazy stitch around to the other side. Make 3 more rows of
crazy stitch. Finish with a row of shells.
[Illustration: Fig. 246. Slipper stitch]
Directions for crazy stitch--Make a ch of 4 sts; then throw the thread
once over the needle, take up the third nearest stitch to the needle,
and pull it through the loop; throw the thread over again and pull
it through the nearest two loops on needle and crochet the remaining
two loops off in the same manner. This completes the d c described in
chapter 27. Make two more d c in the same loop, skip 3 stitches, fasten
with a sl st in next st 3 ch. 4 shells in next st. and continue for
length desired.
_Slippers in Star Stitch_ (Figure 247).
4 balls of mercerized crochet cotton.
Star stitch is made by a ch of the required length. Insert hook in 2nd
ch from it, draw wool through, keeping both sts on hook, insert hook
in 3rd ch and draw wool through keeping this st also on the hook, skip
the next ch and take up the 4th and 5th in same manner, making 5 sts on
hook; now drop the strands of wool from which these sts were made, and
take up wool of contrasting colour, double end into a loop with short
end about one inch in length, draw this through all the sts on hook,
being careful not to let this short end slip through, ch 1 to hold sts
in place. Now with this new strand work a star by drawing it through
the eye of star, it being the tightest stitch near the ch on hook
keeping both sts on hook as before.
Draw wool also through long st down the side of star, then through next
2 ch which gives 5 sts on hook, then dropping the strand from which
this star was made pick up the wool of 1st star and loop it through
these 5 sts and ch 1 to hold the star in place. This ch should be
worked tight so it will draw the sts together and form the star, which
should be almost square. In the second row place the contrasting colour
over the star underneath, tying in the wool, ch 3 on which take up 2
sts; this gives you 3 sts on hook, the next 2 loops are drawn through
the long and short stitches of star underneath, taking up back stitch
of the long and both strands of the short or eye of star.
[Illustration: Fig. 247. A slipper in star stitch]
_For the slipper proper._
Ch 9, on which make 3 stars, 2 ch at end then work 3 stars down the
other side of ch, taking up the other thread.
2nd row--4 stars, 2 ch, 4 stars.
3d row--without widening.
Widen 2 stars every other row until you have 10 rows 2 rows without
widening, then widen in the next.
There will be 13 rows in all, and 20 stars in this last row, now divide
front and work 20 stars on either half for the sides; fit around sole
by stretching and sew up the back on the wrong side. The wool or thread
should be broken at the end of each row. (Crochet should not be worked
backward and forward unless directions are given to that effect.)
For a frill around the slippers work groups of 6 ch st two more rows of
the same. I always sew my slippers onto the soles after being finished,
by overcasting with wool of the same shade on the right side, which
saves stretching the slippers all out of shape when turning them.
_Jacket in Shell Stitch_ (Figure 248).
Material: 5 skeins of white Germantown and 1 skein of colour for edge.
No. 7 bone needle.
Ch 127, with 3 extra sts for turning.
1st row--Skip 2 ch and make 4 d c in the next. * Skip 3 ch, 1 s c in
next, ch 3, 4 d c in same st with s c and repeat from * ending with a
final s c.
2nd row--Turn 1 s c in s c below * 2 d c in same st, 1 s c in next s c
below and repeat from * ending with a s c in top of turning ch.
3rd row--Turn ch 3, 4 d c in s c below * 1 s c in next s c, ch 3, 4 d c
in same st repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 9 times, then repeat the 2nd row once more.
This gives a depth of work sufficient for the back part of sleeves. At
the end of the last row fasten off.
[Illustration: Fig. 248. Half of a jacket in shell stitch]
The lower part of the back is now to be made. Count 8 shells (sh) along
from the end of the last row and begin to crochet there, working as
with 3rd row until within 8 sh of each other end of last long row.
Crochet in pattern upon this row until 11 rows in all have been worked.
Upon the 12th row increase 1 sh in the 2 s c from each end by making 2
sh in those st instead of one.
Work without increasing for 13 rows more, then fasten off.
Go back to the foundation and upon the other side of it, beginning
where the first row ended, crochet 13 sh as in 1st row. This is the
commencement of the left shoulder and front.
Upon this row work 3 rows more in the usual way. At the end of the last
row drop the loop temporarily from the needle, tie in an extra ball
of wool at the top of the very beginning of the last row, ch 12 and
fasten off. With this ch the extra width for the centre of the front is
secured.
5th row--Again take the dropped loop upon the needle and crochet as
usual making 3 sh upon the extra ch. The row is now 16 sh wide. Work in
pattern for 17 rows more, the last row ending at the wrist. Fasten off.
On the 1st short row of lower front count 8 sh along from end of last
row, begin there, work as usual to the other end, then crochet back and
forth until the front is as long as the back, increasing 1 sh on the
13th row in the 2 s c from the underarm seam. The second front is made
exactly like the first. The 3rd pattern row now is worked up the fronts
around the neck, across the lower edge of jacket and sleeves, then
finished with a scalloped edge worked as follows: Make 1 s c in space
preceding st where s c was made on row below, ch 5, 1 s c on top of 1st
d c below, ch 4, 1 s c in same space, ch 5 and repeat from beginning
around all the edges, fasten off.
Shape the jacket by crocheting the sleeves and underarm seams together.
Crochet should be carefully washed and should not be put in the general
laundry. Make suds of warm water and a little borax. Put the article,
if of cotton or linen thread in and let it soak for a little while,
then squeeze the water out of the article between the hands. Rinse in
several waters in this manner always using warm water.
Put the piece in a white bag and hang on the line.
This way keeps the piece from stretching out of shape. Keep it on the
line till the article is perfectly dry.
Knitted articles should also be treated in like manner when washing for
if a knitted piece was pinned on a line to dry the article would be
stretched out of shape.
XXIX
IRISH CROCHET LACE
Irish Crochet lace is one of the most durable of laces and is suitable
to be worn for all occasions. It especially recommends itself for
pick-up or porch work. It looks well and does not take an endless
while to make, as almost every motif is made separately thus giving
a variety. And although one may not have more than a few minutes to
devote each day to the work, it is surprising how many articles can be
completed with little effort and little time.
The materials necessary are a steel crochet hook, considerably finer
than for ordinary crochet work, as the work must be very firm, even
and close. Irish Crochet Thread, numbers 36 to 50 or D. M. C. cotton
numbers 70 to 100 inclusive and number 10 for the padding cotton will
be needed. All laces look better if pressed before making up, this is
especially true of Irish Crochet. And when slightly soiled it can be
washed in soap suds, made from any good laundry soap; rinse thoroughly
in several waters, starch slightly and iron on the wrong side on a
heavy blanket. These simple directions help to make the lace look like
new. In Irish Crochet the motifs are made separately mostly worked over
a padding cotton.
[Illustration: Fig. 249. Doily with crochet edge]
Then these motifs are basted on a pattern of cambric, or paper muslin
which has been cut to the desired shape. A row of chainstitching is
worked and basted to the edge of the pattern, then the filling in
background is worked, joining the different motifs together with rows
of chainstitching and picots or any other background stitch desired.
_Doily with Irish Crochet Edge_ (Figure 249).
This can also be used for a bread plate.
1st row--around a 24 inch circle of linen work a row of single crochet.
2nd row--5 chain, miss 3 single crochet and fasten with a single
crochet in the 4th stitch; continue around mat.
[Illustration: Fig. 250. The design for the belt]
3rd row--Into each group of chains work 3 single crochet, 1 picot, 3
single crochet.
4th row--6 ch fasten in the picot loop.